Integrated Headset (& Bearing) Replacement - Mountain mtb or Road Bike

How to easily replace a mountain bike mtb or road bike headset or just the headset bearings (www.firstcomponents.com/heads....
The first thing to do is to clear the forks of any cables or levers. You have to remove the forks so they need to be completely un-attached to the bike by any cables. The main one here is the brake cable. You don’t have to remove the forks, but you’ll find removing and handling the forks is a lot easier if you do.
The preparation for fork removal involves loosening the stem bolts (or bolt if your bike only has one stem bolt) and top cap tensioner bolt. The top cap bolt holds the fork and headset assemblage together. You should hold the fork to prevent it falling to the floor. Once the top cap is released and the bolt completely clear, the forks can be removed by just sliding them out. The bearings that sit just inside the head tube may come loose like as in the video. If not you may have to gently pry them out with an awl or small screwdriver or even employ a removal tool.
We’ll be replacing all the headset parts here with a completely new headset. The star nut would be useful if installing a new fork. The existing fork will be reinstalled with it’s star nut still in place. Each of the headset components is packed in the box in the in the order each will be installed on the bike. Just lay them out in that order so you can’t go wrong on the installation. The crown race here is fine but may as well be replaced. No special tool is needed to remove it. Just gently lever it up away from the fork crown. If you are just replacing the bearings you won’t need to do this either.
A thin film of grease on the crown race before you install the crown race bearing is a good idea. There’s be no chance of any squeaking should there be any slight movements in times of stress on the trail. Some mechanics generously grease the bearing basically the whole area to completely seal out the water and dirt, a reasonably effective technique, although it can get mighty dirty and indeed act as a dirt magnet. Replacing bearings or the headset as a whole is a quick and easy activity anyway so probably not necessary.
On the install the top-cap should be tight enough to hold everything together, which means it won’t be tight at all. A way to get the right tension is just enough tension so that the spacers don’t move when using a firm grip you attempt to turn them. Any movement here means you need to tighten the tension bolt. However if you have got it tight and the spacers are still loose, this means the gap between the top of the steerer (where it was cut for the original installation and assembly) and the top of the stem is not enough-3mm is the optimal distance. If it’s less than 1mm, you won’t be able to pull the headset assembly together.
Line the front wheel up with the stem. Then tighten the stem bolts enough to stop the stem and front wheel from getting out of alignment again. Then you need to apply the correct torque to the stem bolts. Over tightening may damage the thread or the steerer. Not tight enough and they can work loose which is just dangerous. The technique is important. Tightening each side in turn bit by bit is the best way. Once the wrench clicks in at the specified torque do the other side. Tightening that side slightly loosens the opposite side. Once both sides click easily you have reached tolerance.

[@macdaraWhite]

finally a video which explains this properly. My bike fell apart and I had no idea how to put it back together!

[@Dopeassbikevids]

Bahaha

[@Dopeassbikevids]

Hahaha

[@samdavis1549]

Thank you for this I have a old carrera that I was fixing. I used this video then changed a little things and it worked, I have been working trying to fix that bike for two days and thanks to you it mostly works. 👍🏻

[@glenswada]

Ah, there was a little play in my fork. Didn't realize the headset top seal bolts were preventing the main stem bolt from tightening properly. Thank you.

[@emberlounge]

Thanks! I only have to do this once or twice a year but no matter how careful I am I always find that slim washer stuck to the old bearing after I’ve started putting it back together and then panic where it goes!

[@kenrodbender9603]

Amazing video. The best bike tutorial video I’ve ever watched

[@luigiespanola3711]

THANK YOU SIR FOR EXPLAINING IT STEP BY STEP

[@delleespanto7817]

Problem solved! Thanks you sir!!😁🙏

[@prithviraj2354]

Would you make a video of headset bearing measurements

[@celery_annihilator]

Very helpful. Thanks!!

[@gaco49]

This bike was really easy to assemble kzbin.infoUgkxMesz3KOGEmwmvyKQfLfrRSUXLFzfVHZA and required very few adjustments out of the box. The wheels did not require any truing/adjustments. The frame had some small scratches, but nothing major.I did replace the seat though - the seat it came with was very uncomfortable. The tires need to be re-inflated every 4-5 days, but this appears to be quite common for the narrow 700x25 tires.Overall, in my opinion, this bike looks and rides like a much more expensive bike.

[@papsbry5365]

thanks sir its very helpful 😇

[@geararellanoii]

I have two of that micro-adjust washer. Where should I put the other one?

[@S.R.T.G]

What do you do if top and bottom bearing assemblies don't come out ? Mines are completely stuck in the seat and won't budge. Dirt build up has made them noisy and they can't be cleaned as is.

[@tigerbalm666]

I made the mistake of tightening the stem BEFORE the top cap....and my stem was little loose. I felt som movement when riding so I tightened the top cap FIRST.

[@tigerbalm666]

Best video ever!

[@CyclingHabits]

hi is it advisable to have 5 mm spacer installed under that top cap. thanks

[@hera9191]

Perfect.

[@DecemberGalaxy0]

is it normal to not have the micro adjust washer? there is creaking when I apply the front brake and I can't know if it comes from the headset or not

[@ljiljanaprelevic7022]

A Refreshing Woo-Hoo!!

[@iamcyberpunk68]

crown race opening should be at the back side of the fork. helps with moisture .

[@Dopeassbikevids]

Isn't he going to need that starnut for a future fork upgrade?

[@jonedmonds283]

Very Good Thanks

[@diggingtheburger1326]

Mine is not fit i is there a sizing on headset depending on a headtube

[@groovy_bear]

Thanks for your video, quite helpful and I liked that you showed close ups of all the parts and the frame (bearing seat for instance). But watching this did not solve the problem I have on my road bike, maybe someone can help me here : I noticed that there was rust on the steerer tube when removing the stem cap (stem would not rotate freely once loosened). Decided to put the headset apart, get rid of that rust, and reassemble. Stem and spacers had seized but not so much that a bit of WD40 and some gentle hammering on the top of the steerer tube wouldn't do. Removed the top bits (seal and wedge washer), then the fork, cleaned it, put a thin layer of anti-seize on the part where the spacers and stem fit, then re-inserted the fork. The whole time, the bearings (which i assume were cartridge bearings) stayed firmly attached to the frame. After reassembling and setting some preload on the stem cap bolt, I noticed there was a gap (about 2 mm) between the fork crown race and the lower bearings (still attached to the frame). Some loosening and rattling of the fork wouldn't help : that gap wouldn't go, no matter how much load I put on the top cap bolt. I torqued it up so much that the star nut started to move up inside the fork. Hopefully that didn't damage the bearings. But I can't figure out why that gap wouldn't go. Now water and dirt can come in contact with the bearings which is obviously not good. Any thought on this ? Thanks for reading !

[@jestaserialkilla]

Not that I have the solution to your problem but I am at the stage you were in as much as I’ve removed the steerer and all parts of the headset, save for the bearings which for have stayed in the headtube, held in place by what appears to be a very thing split washer, but it’s nigh on unremovable. So I’m bracing myself for having a similar issue to yourself when I put it all back together with a new fork.

[@groovy_bear]

@@jestaserialkilla well let me know if you come across the same problem I've had when you reinstall your new fork... I haven't touched my bike since I posted, it's hanging in the garage but I want to get to the bottom of this sometime soon. Let me know if you have any idea when working on your setup ;)

[@jestaserialkilla]

@@groovy_bear I don’t blame you, unexpected issue are always enough to put me off having a second go, although not for long! 😏 I actually realised that the bearing that I assumed were preinstalled integrated sealed cartridges were intact an angled cup and loose ball bearing system, so that makes me now want to find a better but similar headset and fit it, before seeing if I have the fork/frame interfacing issue! Wish me luck!

[@jestaserialkilla]

@@groovy_bear heya, I did indeed have exactly the same issue as you. I put everything together with the new forks, crown race snuggly in place headset tightened down, but there is a slight gap between the bottom bearing in the headtube and the crown race. I’ve been on the bike and it feels fine, but it’s going to annoy me knowing there’s an entry point for dirt and water.

[@simonManleeeee]

What about bearings secured by circular clips?

[@victorgueta5045]

Will it be OK if I change my 41mm bearing to 42mm??

[@cyclingheaven9027]

Osm video dam good 👍😎

[@patiorio1538]

It happen my colnago v1r

[@riN-ps9vk]

Hello, How can i find out what kind of headset i have?? There is a number, Torture: 40 IN-LBf(4.5n-M) Specialized Sirrus Elite Medium Hybrid sport.

[@bootyholeman5659]

if you're not first you're last -Ricky Bobby

[@Po7ent]

Can someone send me a link to trek roscoe 7 2021 headset please?

[@patiorio1538]

Hi I had a issue were i swap out the stem as I tighten the headset there was a play between the headset and fork.so the bolt drop inside the fork to catches the head set .what do I do to prevent that happening again in the near future.

[@firstcomponents]

Sounds like the compression plug's lower wedge (the "nut" to the compression bolt) was way loose to the point that it dropped off. That would account for the initial play. The compression plug's bolt-sleeve-wedge assembly needs to be snugly tight, then placed in the steerer. Then tighten the compression bolt so that the sleeve expands to engage the steerer's inner diameter. Tighten the bolt a half turn or so. You'll know it's too tight if there's a slight bulge in the steerer preventing the stem from smoothly sliding into position. Best to use a torque wrench and follow any manufacturing spec for the correct setting. 6 nM max would be a rule of thumb if there's no suggestions from the manufacturer.

[@smokeyjoe4248]

Hi my first washer u put at the top think it was pre load does not sit propley and its leaving play in my steering, what u think I shid do? Cheers bro

[@DecemberGalaxy0]

same

[@friendabel7702]

V Good

[@wasupwitdat1mofiki94]

I haven't seen anyone comment yet about the number of spacers you put under that stem. Those look like 10mm spacers and in that case would be 40mm. That is to much. Most fork manufacturers only recommend about 25mm max. If you need more rise than this you should get a larger bike.

[@diggingtheburger1326]

I replace the bearing sit and not fit do i need to hammer it

[@firstcomponents]

I'd double check your head tube ID. Make sure your replacement bearing ID is compatible. Shouldn't be any need to hammer. The bearing should easily slot in snugly.

[@Everlastingknight]

😁😁 i just hammered mine and destroyed it.

[@Everlastingknight]

i just distroyed my bearing by placing it wrong and hammering it , wish i had watched this before messing up my headset .

[@satyajitmondal90]

Wet

[@iamcyberpunk68]

china bike