You know it's hard when Seth doesn't run it out 40ft and spend time extending every placement with triple length runners hahaha
@dennisrice15574 жыл бұрын
Tom Siders probably put that up before you boys were even alive
@bman60653 жыл бұрын
One of my coolest memories rock climbing was lowering over that flake system out left and a colony of flying squirrels came out and flew over my wife's (girlfriend at the time) head sitting on the adjacent giant boulder.
@LiveLaughJordan-oi6tg4 жыл бұрын
The 'ol Black Totem crux savior 🖤
@sandstone.addict4 жыл бұрын
Wait, this cant be Seth. He’s actually placing nuts!
@vbuffalini4 жыл бұрын
FPB has single handedly killed more onsights than all the shirtless boulder bros spraying at their highest capacity
@FirstPersonBeta4 жыл бұрын
This made me chuckle.
@dereksmalls78084 жыл бұрын
I slipped and fell 2 feet from the chains on this route. Devastating. Hahah.
@kurthoelter34952 жыл бұрын
heard the story of the group driving the tour bus through the underpass? wonderful route....
@adambaron38024 жыл бұрын
One of your better videos of late - always fun to see a bit of a battle. Reminds me of your cruel sister video!
@PatrickBeeson4 жыл бұрын
Definitely on my list the next time I'm at the red.
@enricociuppa70934 жыл бұрын
always excited when a new video shows. Always nice watch first person climbing videos after your climbing day
@jarrodpelphrey31143 жыл бұрын
I was always hesitant to place stoppers on this route. I’ve read that the flake can flex enough that they can pull out.
@LouDude5024 жыл бұрын
Beautiful line! Must do.
@LiveLaughJordan-oi6tg4 жыл бұрын
Man, this one looked tough! Great job, Seth
@warrengooch65384 жыл бұрын
It used to be 9+ the bolt holes at that first ledge. Then they chopped those and extended it, taking the grade to 10a. It's busy up there. Good one!
@theopinson38513 жыл бұрын
Wait but 10a would be a downgrade from 9+ though.
@louisbreytenbach89034 жыл бұрын
Awesome climb! Really enjoyed that!
@ChrisJoneschrisajones2 жыл бұрын
"This would feel awesome if my fingers were just a little smaller!" *everyone looks at their fingers*
@markdesaint-rat49054 жыл бұрын
Tom Souders' climbs are pretty good. Maybe try "The Perforator"
@manishshankla95624 жыл бұрын
This was my first 10, such a good climb! Did you get on vector trouble? That's another amazing line at that crag.
@theopinson38513 жыл бұрын
As always for trad in the Red...looks stiff! Nice climb.
@MinecraftEAT4 жыл бұрын
Autumn is another Long wall goodie, hopefully you got on it while you were there. A lesser climbed line at Long is Mailbox, which is easy at first with a solid crux at the top.
@FirstPersonBeta4 жыл бұрын
Did them both though really wasn't a fan of mailbox (Autumn on the other hand was amazing).
@wesNeill4 жыл бұрын
Hardest 10a ever. The top traverse is so pumpy. And hell to clean!
@Cardsandstoagies2 жыл бұрын
I saw the roof crack system above rock wars and it made me wonder if anyone has freed that. Got any knowledge of that?
@jasonzevenbergen63384 жыл бұрын
Great video! I just watched your vids on horizontal cam placements, any chance you know if a red or orange totem would've slipped out of your manufactured crack like the C4s did?
@FirstPersonBeta4 жыл бұрын
No clue, I didn''t have the Totems when I made the video, though they have a lot more going on and don't work on exactly the same model I featured in the video.
@Lax-Sharks4 жыл бұрын
So much for making your first pro (or 2) multi-directional..... you uhhh lika de zippa?
@FlatOutFE4 жыл бұрын
If your belayer is standing in the correct position under the first piece then the force of fall is still downward. Secondly, some nut placements lock in quite well and can provide multidirectional support.
@tedslusser28174 жыл бұрын
Are nuts preferred on this route due to the flake? Would cams be more likely to flex the flake?
@FlatOutFE4 жыл бұрын
@@tedslusser2817 I'll take a good nut over a cam any day. I'm also always reluctant to put cams behind flakes unless it's the only thing that works.
@xXxSpUtNiiKxXx4 жыл бұрын
@@FlatOutFE you can have a zipper effect from above too if lets say you place another cam/nut and then take a fall, meaning the first nut experiences an upwards pull and may get yanked out. Suddenly you are only hanging on one piece of gear. I always make a point to place a cam first! I do buy the "no cams behind hollow flakes" argument though!
@FlatOutFE4 жыл бұрын
@@xXxSpUtNiiKxXx that typically only happens if your belayer is standing too far away from the wall or the route is very overhanging. When possible the belayer should be close to wall. Your point has merit in that sometimes the belayer cannot be directly below the route (or shouldn't be for safety reasons). In my opinion, the nut was the right call in this situation and that it locked in very well. He had a cam as a backup of second placement.