FITTING AND WELDING IN CAB CORNERS - Ford F150 Extended Cab

[@JamesAkers-j2p]

Great vid

[@richardnott9587]

To make sure my body lines are lined up I use string and tape it on there and tape it to the other side also. It helps me see the lines with a string line there.

[@CoachSludge]

song is scarlet fire by otis mcmusic

[@phillipwlkinson5619]

Nice job but I gotta know where you got that chair.

[@TheFoxShop]

😂, it's an old office chair... Had it since I was probably 19 or so

[@HI-ey6jc]

Where did you order the replacement body panels

[@richardnott9587]

I always hate air movement when your welding but your hot. How about take you shop vac outside and hook your discharge hose up a 14ft pool hose and put it under your shirt. Cool blowing air and it won't mess with you shield gas on your welder. Never done it just thinking of it. Anyone ever try it?

[@stevensolis6507]

What brand of cab corner did you use? Raybuck or LMC?

[@TheFoxShop]

LMC

[@user-wb5mz2xr6q]

Where did you get your cab corners from?

[@TheFoxShop]

I dint remember, probably LMCTruck... maybe broncograveyard.. I'm sure they are probably all made by the same company.

[@stankyd937]

so timely, I'm getting close to pulling my old rusty bed, and putting the new cab corners in. since I've never done it, this video is gold to me

[@TheFoxShop]

there will be another real soon.. a little more on grinding down the welds, how it should look, things to avoid, stuff like that. Then on to smoothing it all out with a little filler.. never know it was worked on. Biggest thing is patience.. you want to keep welding, get it all done and have to make yourself STOP! One more weld in a place that is already hot.. warpage.. and then you will wish you had waited. Glad you like the vids!

[@robertmattila4965]

The Fox Shop z

[@northstarracing18d-4d]

I'd rather get sparks hitting my skin then wear a loose weld suit and catch on fire. Sweet truck this helps me out with my truck so thanks for posting

[@eianreed6102]

Really helpful, I'm a Canadian and the truck I found has all the corners rotted. But I found all the patches on LMC and the 78 should be built by spring now. Thx for the video

[@andymartin6969]

My Papaw always show me to find where the rust stops on old panel and mark where you want to cut on the new panel. Put the new panel on the old and cut the new panel always the through to the old panel so when you put the new one on, it will have the same cut line as the panel you're welding to

[@willpaxton9179]

you all prolly dont care but does anyone know a tool to get back into an Instagram account?? I was dumb forgot the password. I would love any help you can give me.

[@abdullahryan8816]

@Will Paxton Instablaster =)

[@willpaxton9179]

@Abdullah Ryan Thanks so much for your reply. I found the site on google and Im in the hacking process now. Takes quite some time so I will reply here later with my results.

[@willpaxton9179]

@Abdullah Ryan it worked and I actually got access to my account again. I am so happy! Thank you so much you really help me out :D

[@abdullahryan8816]

@Will Paxton glad I could help :)

[@TheLukester69]

This is so great , thanks for these videos!! I have exactly the same truck . 1995 f150 4x4 , extended cab shortbox flareside white with blue interior . I have replaced the fenders , hood and am ready to do the cab corners!!

[@StraightLineCycles]

I know it may be excessive but if I was to buy a cab corner for my truck. could I just use the entire piece instead of just where the little rust hole is? I look at it like if I'm going to buy that piece I wanna use all of it.

[@rovidbouski4022]

Great video! Next time to help with the gaps I find it helpful to cut a 1 1/2” strip off of the patch panel and spot weld it to the inside of the cab to act like a flange. It created a channel for the weld instead of an open air gap and the strip helps prevent the “bacon” by bracing the sheet metal. Plus it looks neater on the inside.

[@bruski3859]

If. You need another project im in central iowa cab corner is rusted on my f150

[@troyskeese1503]

When I'm doing patch panels I'll cut then a little larger than needed an overlap the body and then scribe a line to cut . For me it's a little faster to get a clean even joint . But I like your way also . 1000s of ways to do things an there are all fine if it works for the guy doing it

[@TheFoxShop]

But how do you scribe a line when you cant get to the back side of the panel? Like I said, I'm no professional, so if I am missing something.. do tell! LOL!

[@troyskeese1503]

+The Fox Shop I guess I just lay it on top or the outside of the original panel . An then scribe it from the outside an cut the original panel to the shape of the patch . I really like the way you but weld an gave a great description of how you do it .most people including production shops I have worked in just overlap an weld . And most don't even weld it fully in just a few spot welds an a lot of mud .

[@TheFoxShop]

Ahhh, so you are saying take the part you cut out and use that as a template? If that's the case.. that would work, however mine was so crusty and beat up when I got done with it, it just wasn't going to work out doing it that way. overlapping and not welding fully.. just asking for quick corrosion.

[@saleenmustang9793]

@ Fox shop. I was just wondering if you have ever done upper lower ball joints on your Ford yet? Would you be interested on making a video of it? Let me know thanks

[@michelletieman5719]

Please wear safety glasses while grinding or sanding. Please

[@G_Rapids]

There's nothing better than working on a vehicle you love to the sound of crickets.

[@faronf2006]

For just a hobbiest welder / auto body work / painting ....you always do some fine work 😊

[@NoAfilliations]

You said "Central Iowa" and I got a reminiscent memory of visiting my grand folks out in Corning during the summers growing up.

[@boatznhoz1890]

beautiful place man! thanks for the video too, very helpful. Big thanks from a nebraska neighbor

[@TheFoxShop]

Thanks bud! Appreciate the compliment and comment. Come back for more!

[@andrewj8762]

A pneumatic flange tool would work great on the body panel your welding

[@NoChargeGarage]

Did you spot weld the bottom and door jam after you welded the top seam? I plan to do this soon, I have some experience welding, I'm only really worried about where the new patch panel attaches on the bottom side and the door jam. Mine's a 91 supercab but the patch panels should be interchangeable.

[@lorneholtzclaw4505]

I’ve got a 96’ XLT with the same problem and plan on doing what you’ve done, these videos very helpful

[@williamkraft5574]

What issues will I encounter when I start cutting out the rusted cab corners? Any advise is appreciated. Thank you for your great videos.

[@TheFoxShop]

Really shouldn't encounter any issues, just make sure you are cutting above where the rust stops... and cut as straight a line as possible.. only other issues are the spot welds and that foam that I suggest just totally removing. It really is not hard, but can be nerving if you have never done it before just because you are cutting into your truck.... but it is already messed up due to rust so you really cant make it much worse.

[@davidmiles4394]

I looked like hard work

[@TheFoxShop]

It's really not that bad... Just take your time

[@WillsGarage91]

Great video as usual Jon. I'm gonna end up fixing my bed instead of replacing it. I also have to do the drivers rocker and the core support is getting done this fall.

[@TheFoxShop]

I say if you can keep your bed, even though it needs some fixin, just fix it. It belongs with the truck. You doing the rocker this fall as well?

[@WillsGarage91]

Not sure. My parents own a landscaping business and they have a nice big shop but I gotta see whats going to be in there before I can use it. Their mechanic is pretty good body guy so I can have him help me and maybe teach me some new skills!

[@WillsGarage91]

I also need to do the e brake cables (still free but rubbed thru on driver side rear shock) and rear shocks when the bed is off.

[@arcturusbbqsausagemaking2435]

Great job I used to have a cold damp rag after a spot welded I placed the cool damp rag over the weld area and just moved right along Great job Im going to do this with a truck I just bought Never did much body work but I have been a welder fabricator for over 38 years ,So im going to give it a shot.... Well done

[@bcsprothree]

Like your videos will be starting this same thing on my 94 bronco this weekend. Im in the neighboring state of Nebraska.

[@TheFoxShop]

Awesome! Wish you the best of luck! Gotta love those ol Bronco's!!

[@davidmiles4394]

That's what I need to do to my truck got one just like it

[@helivesonforever]

What would you do if your inner structure was rotted out? That's how it is on my Dodge RAM 2500 truck, and that's one of the main reasons why I haven't touched it. You can't really "make" a patch panel in my case, because the big pinch weld at the bottom is rusted out where you would normally put one of those swivel jacks or jackstands. The part where the plugs in the back of the rockers go is also totally gone. All the patch panels I see online are only for the part of the rockers that you can actually see, not the inner structure. Do you try to replicate the areas where the panel was spot welded from the factory? The bottom gap is also something I really don't know much about doing. Do you just leave it exposed so crap can drain out or do you fill it with weld also?

[@TheFoxShop]

I would think someone makes pretty much anything you want to get as far as patch panels .. although the inner structure.. not real sure. Have you tried looking on LMCtruck? May have to actually fabricate, or have someone fab something up. As far as replicating the areas welded from the factory.. Not really.. I there were several spot welds along the bottom, really didn't seem to be any rhyme or reason to them.

[@helivesonforever]

The Fox Shop I've looked pretty much everywhere I could. One website had a part of the inner structure, but it was part of the floor pan, and it was over 500 bucks a panel! Total cost was well over a grand so I quit thinking about that option really quick. That was only for the front part of the structure too, which is only half of my problem. I'm just letting it go for right now, since it's just a truck I plow snow with in the winter and haul firewood with in the spring. It gets a lot worse every year though. I've had it for 5 years now, and after 2 years the rusty rockers were full of holes. 2 years later, there were no rockers at all. Now, I have holes in the floors themselves. I'm sure it doesn't help that it was a company truck its whole life, and I bet it's never seen a car wash at all during the winter months.

[@troyskeese1503]

+***Classified*** for a plow truck I would run it in the ground . An get another in a few years

[@helivesonforever]

troy skeese That's my plan now I guess. I like the truck though, and hate to replace it with another one that I won't get 3 years out of before it's junk. They don't make them like they used to anymore. They don't do safety inspections up here or anything like that, so who knows how much longer it will be on the road.

[@troyskeese1503]

+***Classified*** you could try an electric rust inhibitor . I bought a 99 super duty an have driven it for 7-8 years in snow an salt water . So far no rust even over the rear tires or cab corners . It may help your plow truck ? Or slow down the rusting that you have ? I looked them up online years ago an they were bragging about using them on salt mine equipment .

[@adrienmetz3755]

Hey u wanna do my truck?? Lol I’m fr I have ton of rust spot I need fix I’m not far from Ohio and down here they want an arm and leg just to fit a few rust spot??

[@clydeohara1052]

Ok I got my tool it is called an air punch and flange tool, now I have to find a way to send you the pictures.

[@roadkillsf.f.cgarage386]

What's your next project and when?

[@TheFoxShop]

Oh you just....never.....know. :-)

[@jimkuhlman8151]

Cool video! Thank you. Can I suggest cut resistant gloves and safety glasses.

[@TheFoxShop]

Well.. you would be hard pressed to get me to wear gloves. I can handle cuts on my hands (happens all the time).. the safety glasses you are 100% correct on. I even have that in a video after a chunk of metal hit me right in the eyeball. I was LUCKY. I bought some the next day, however, and it is no excuse at all, but hard habits are hard to break. I have never worn safety glasses of any kind, never had and issue to speak of... but after that little incident I mean to wear em, want to wear em, mean to wear em... still catch myself NOT wearing em. Like I said, no excuse.. but its the truth.

[@williamkraft5574]

Thank you for showing how to match up the body panel with the truck w/ the grinding you needed to do also, thanks for showing the spot welds, how they should look during and after. I hope the weather cools off for you. Showing how your actually doing things is much better than saying what your going to do and showing the end result even if it only takes 1 min or 2. It really helps out us newbies. BTW were did you get the magnets?

[@TheFoxShop]

Heck I am still a newbie by bodywork standards. Like I have said in my vids, I am not a professional by any means, it is just how I do it and it seems to work. As 10 different people how to do bodywork or paint and you will get 10 different answers. LOL. The magnets.. they are a harbor freight special! Surly even harbor freight magnets are ok right? Super cheap and pretty powerful.

[@dkucera34]

Where did you get the patch panels?

[@danhall9036]

Where did you get your patch panels from? A part number would be awesome if its not too much of a hassle for ya! Thanks in advanced!

[@TheFoxShop]

Got them from LMCtruck. Part number 49-9128 (left)Part number 49-9129 (right)$49.95 each.

[@lrparker95]

Where did you get those magnets?

[@TheFoxShop]

Harbor Freight

[@JohnHighmerSmith]

@@TheFoxShop how bout something between the magnets and your paint? Your good paint could get chipped when the magnet slaps the body like that....cool stuff otherwise! any answers to the whole foam question? I'm not seeing a lot on the ol internetz

[@clydeohara1052]

You only have one set of eyes

[@clydeohara1052]

if you want the pictures send me how I can send you these pictures of this tool.

[@TheFoxShop]

You can sent them to my email. [e-mail] I think I know what tool you are talking about. I would rather just butt weld em than lap joint... but I know a lot of people do it that way.

[@glasshammer291]

RIP your ears. Hearing protection is a great thing. So are dust masks and eye protection for that matter.

[@clydeohara1052]

No glasses again

[@jontest5718]

I picked up a 7.3 F250 for a decent price, but it needs body work and a bed. I’m wondering, I own a welder and have access to a shop of sorts. Doing it myself could really be the difference between a deal and coming near breaking even when it’s all said and done.

[@clydeohara1052]

you know like your eyes, you should be wearing gloves when handling sharp metal. Also you need this tool that make a little lap joint and it punches holes for tack welds on the other side of the tool it is air. I will find the tool and send a picture of it for ya. It makes life pretty easy if you don't want to buut joint the weld witch is the best way to join body panels together.

[@silverstreaksgarage7370]

That's perfect Jon! I really needed to see the process. A buddy of mine said he sprayed the welds with water to help the cooling process. Any thoughts on that?

[@TheFoxShop]

I have heard of that, also seen people use a wet towel. But I "think" you can also cool it down too quick. Might be wrong on that. I use compressed air if I know I got it pretty hot and blow that on it... other than that, I just take my time.

[@andymartin6969]

My Papaw always show me to find where the rust stops on old panel and mark where you want to cut on the new panel. Put the new panel on the old and cut the new panel always the through to the old panel so when you put the new one on, it will have the same cut line as the panel you're welding to

[@TheFoxShop]

I just woke up but think I read this right, so lay the new panel over the old before you cut anything.. then cut the new one...mark the old one and cut it? That would work. Only problem I was having with that is the way the cab corner fit up.. placing it over the old wouldn't give a very tight fit and I was afraid the line would be too far off. Where it goes around the back of the cab was giving me issues, I was really tight and wouldn't lay over the old one right where the corner is. For like a wheel well patch panel that would work great and is how I did it on my green truck. Thanks for throwing that out there though. Like myself and others have said, ask 10 people how to do it you will get 10 different answers. None really right or wrong as long as you end up in the same place. I may mention this in my next vid though. Thanks!