How Body Shops Fix Rust Holes: MIG Welder, Lap Welds, Bondo

[@leebarker539]

You are a natural teacher. Thank you for sharing your skills so clearly and so well focused. This is one of the best how-to videos I have seen period.

[@LakesideAutobody]

Thank you so much - I appreciate that. Glad you enjoyed this video and I hope to upload many more. Have a good week Lee :)

[@jamesharris5185]

Agreed

[@bombdiggitydave3881]

"Nothing makes an expert in any field or endeavor as much as practice and practice again, along with an ongoing commitment to consistency and, learning from one's mistakes and not making them again" - me

[@jkp8284]

What kind of Bondo do you use

[@jamesgallagher1992]

Yep agreed🤘

[@bentnickel7487]

I've never seen anyone doing this close up, thank you.

[@LakesideAutobody]

You're welcome

[@bryantspeedcustoms9795]

I like seeing other people different style of body work great video! Glad you kept it simple!

[@LakesideAutobody]

I'm glad you appreciate that - there's a lot of good ways to fix things this is just one.

[@robertlee6409]

I showed this video to my 12 year old son so he could see what him and I were about to do to my 97 Silverado. Awesome explanation and camera work. 👍

[@LakesideAutobody]

That's good to hear Robert. I you or your son have any ?s feel free to ask. Have a great week :)

[@Void-gn9zm]

“And I add a little filler up here, I don’t know why but whatever.” That is my attitude with most of my projects hahaha. Awesome video! Subscribed.

[@LakesideAutobody]

Thanks so much - glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for subbing :)

[@chuckschillingvideos]

Well, he knew why he was applying the filler there - there was a low spot. He just didn't know why there was a low spot there is all.

[@jessejohnson159]

Back in 1968 I took a '56 Ford wagon (family car since '57) to a body shop I respected to "have all the rust replaced and put in primer". When I got it back and was starting to do other work on it, I found masking tape sticking out from under body filler inside the drivers side rear door. I started pealing the tape and body filler out to find NO metal had been installed! Just masking tape over the holes and filler on top. I was most willing to pay for METAL to be installed! Since then I started learning how to do my own metal work, etc. Damned proud of the repairs I learned how to do. Most body shops can't afford to do what's needed for a proper repair because the customer won't want to pay for it. And, for 'throwaway cars", that makes sense. Not for a car or truck the owner want's to keep for a very long time.

[@LakesideAutobody]

That story right there is what gave bondo a bad name. If done right it can last as long as a new panel. Great story!

[@jessejohnson159]

@@LakesideAutobody True! I've even learned how to do lead work for certain applications. Standard body filler in thicknesses less that 1/8th of an inch will last 'forever' if sealed correctly. And with "USC All-Metal" and Bondo "Bondo-Glass" fiberglass based body fillers, used in some applications, moisture can be negated to ruin work later in the life of the repair. At 69, I'm still doing rust repair for people and metal repairs for myself. Gotta love it to do it! 😁

[@LakesideAutobody]

@@jessejohnson159 With those skills, you can drive almost any car you've ever wanted. Nothing's better than walking in the next day after a paint job dries and unmasking the car. The smell, the shine, the feel of fresh smooth paint. Good times - Happy Holidays

[@jessejohnson159]

@@LakesideAutobody I also get lot's of satisfaction from doing a near perfect metal repair on older cars and trucks where the repair will last for a very long time. Happy Holidays to you and yours at Lakeside!

[@syncrovanCos]

One of the best videos I've found, simple and directly to the point ! Thank you !

[@LakesideAutobody]

You're welcome - glad you enjoyed it :)

[@olben1095]

Cake decorators make the best bondo applicators.

[@davidcollis4758]

As a former auto mechanic/technician/engine builder I appreciate auto body mechanics that take the time to do quality work. I don't have the patience to work on metal body cars. I am pretty good with fiberglass cars.Thanks for the video.

[@LakesideAutobody]

You're welcome - glad you enjoyed it - happy holidays

[@pigseye2]

Not only are you an excellent teacher, you are a skilled artist too. Thank you for sharing.

[@LakesideAutobody]

Thanks for the kind words Pigeye - you're welcome too :)

[@jasonevans6720]

I prefer to splice in and but weld the seam, I also use short strand fiberglass over the weld area before I fill.

[@lawncuttingplusdelta]

I agree short strand is good to get a level area , and Less bondo .... but here this guy is using no more than 1/8 of an inch likely

[@joelongrid7625]

I need to patch the front bed floor corners in my 2005 F-150. Yours is the first video that has given me the confidence to go after it. Thank you.

[@LakesideAutobody]

You're welcome - let me know how it goes. Jerry

[@joelongrid7625]

@@LakesideAutobody I just came in from the garage after welding the new pieces of steel in place. Not pretty but with some grinding it is going to be a patch that should last the rest of this truck's life. Forgot to turn on the gas and had the dials wrong but welds turned out better after that. Learning as I go. Thanks.

[@LakesideAutobody]

@@joelongrid7625 That's great to hear. I'm sure they'll be just fine. What are you going to do with the bed - paint it ,.put in a bed liner, spray on bed liner?

[@grumpy_ken]

thanks for making this video, really helpful. I do heavy fabrication and have been curious how you guys weld on such thin sheet metal, I have an old Volvo that needs some patching and feel confident now about giving it a shot

[@LakesideAutobody]

I have a few good rust hole videos coming up next week so they will probably help you out a lot - Quarter Panel Rust Repair - Front or Back of Wheel. Jerry

[@ricky107_]

Same here going through rust repair on my old Volvo too!

[@amthevision8931]

I got an 05 Volvo S40 that has a damaged qt panel need to repair too! Will try welding with flux core

[@C0Y0TE5]

@@amthevision8931 NO no no. Flux core is for heavier metals

[@nicholaseliasson2308]

Appreciate your videos! Even after 30 years of work, I learned a couple of tricks.

[@LakesideAutobody]

I appreciate that Nickolas - enjoy the weekend :)

[@WHOMEWHOYOU]

I can honestly say: a well done instructional video, that was what I was looking for, Thanks for putting it together for Us DIY Trainees,

[@LakesideAutobody]

You're very welcome - I'll do my best to keep good ones coming.

[@benolofson9732]

Except it's the wrong way to do it

[@adeh503]

@@benolofson9732 explain

[@aznravechild6i9]

It's refreshing seeing actual metal work after seeing a bunch of foam and fiberglass tutorial.

[@LakesideAutobody]

Thanks my friend - enjoy the weekend :)

[@mizellhobbyshop]

I'm not trying to be rude by any means, I just wanted to add that it's a really good idea to push the first coat of body filler down really firm. And pull it in all directions possible to make sure its pressed firmly into any voids around the welds... too, pressing the filler down firm helps to keep shrinkage from showing up so badly around the welded patch areas. And ALWAYS WHEN POSSIBLE...... put epoxy on the backside, and once its dry, scuff it with red scotch brite and put seam sealer over the back side of your patch. This keeps the rust from coming back and also ensuring the body filler wont pop off.

[@LakesideAutobody]

Good suggestions.

[@whatyoumakeofit6635]

@@LakesideAutobody ....what town are you located in Michigan?

[@whatyoumakeofit6635]

@@LakesideAutobody i have a 1983 dodge b250 that im working on. Ive stopped at a couple bodyshops to get an idea of what it would cost to have them fix 2 separate rust spots.. of the 3 ships I stopped at, 3 of them didnt take me seriously. Basically I was told this isnt a hotrod/muscle car/ collectors car or whatever and its not worth working on. Im building a van thats been in my mind for 20 something years. And im definitely serious. I have money. And I want the work done. The spots that need repair are not difficult to get to. In my novice opinion. They should be pretty common repairs. And easy enuff to do that Ive been contemplating doing it myself. I just cant help thinking that a bodyshop would produce better results and thats what I want.

[@overmarsdaria3222]

Finally somebody who make sense! Well said.

[@LakesideAutobody]

@@whatyoumakeofit6635 Let me guess where they are... middle of the van at the bottom or rocker. Fenders are fine - quarters are fine. Doors - so-so

[@derrickmurphy9859]

You are very easy to watch and listen too.I learn a lot from you thank you .

[@LakesideAutobody]

Thanks Derrick - that's nice to hear. I appreciate the support my friend. Have a good weekend :)

[@FordTorino70]

Great work, I really enjoy the videos. You do practical repairs that don't break the bank and will last for years.

[@LakesideAutobody]

Thanks, feels good to keep the cost down for sure.

[@donaldverwoerd2385]

FordTorino70 we

[@plugger4945]

The mans a PRO! Anyone giving a thumbs down is plain ignorant.

[@ricktrainor9394]

The use of All metal over the patch is much better than filler...reduces the amount of filler ised

[@drunkingsailor2359]

It's stronger too doesn't breath moisture like standard filler

[@drunkingsailor2359]

But I really like lead instead of the standard fillers and all metal for skim coating

[@lawncuttingplusdelta]

Bondo has proven to hold up just fine , if used correctly like here .... all metal can crack , it’s not as plyable.... thus guy is awesome and cares , it’s clear ....

[@bugeyev8]

lol...no one uses that garbage all metal anymore...its garbage

[@tonygoshive785]

Great video and you are amazing ar teaching. I wasn’t convinced when you mentioned lap weld, but could not even tell with the finished product

[@LakesideAutobody]

Here's a good video on the truth about lab and butt weld for auto body - kzbin.info/www/bejne/gHqsoKGAhLulpZY You'll eventually go with lap for every repair if you do the work long enough - with lap you can fix any rust hole - see the videos coming up on "Extreme Rust Hole Repairs" - right around March 2023

[@tonygoshive785]

@@LakesideAutobody thank you :)

[@LakesideAutobody]

@@tonygoshive785 You're welcome - It's good to be proficient in both butt and lap as you'll certainly use both depending on the situation - nice talking to you :)

[@friguy4444]

Thank you for this very well done video. I'm wondering if it would be okay if you just spot welded the plate say a dozen times like you did at first and then just work it from there. Would that be okay? I know you're asking why would I want to do that. But just to say if I needed to just use a minimum amount of welding wouldn't that work alright if I filled and shaped it well after that. Thank you for your time.

[@LakesideAutobody]

That would be perfectly fine - that's how we did it most of the time where I worked. I weld it up solid in the videos because I get a lot of negative comments about it... I feel it lasts just as long 'casue it rusts from the bottom up anyway.

[@johnsteed265]

I agree! When I weld sheet metal I always seem to get burn through holes. I think all those extra close knit tacks are overkill. As long as the sheet metal is secure. Of course if this were a structural piece or needed to hold fluid that would be a different story.

[@LakesideAutobody]

@Sheps Yep. I've had good luck both ways. Welds right next to each other or leave space. As long as you tap the seam down and fill with either fiberglass reinforced filler or even regular filler you'll be fine. This vid will help on knocking the seams down - kzbin.info/www/bejne/oofOmGqJnLmqaZI

[@kohjiiida2637]

We’re on 3 weeks holiday at panel beating college. Miss the workshop that’s why I’m here. Very good content

[@LakesideAutobody]

That's good to hear Kohji - have a good week :)

[@41plymouthnut87]

You make it look too easy. Thank you for another great video.

[@LakesideAutobody]

You're welcome - Thanks for watching - Happy Holidays

[@SuperCyril2]

The best way to repair a rusted panel, cut and weld in new piece of metal. It will last longer than using Bondo fibre filler. Great job. I like your work.

[@LakesideAutobody]

Thanks Super - I'm glad you enjoyed it - have a good week :)

[@herenow2895]

Good work. I learnt a couple of things there. What about the rust on the inner wing ? or treatment of the inner wing ? Did you weld the back of the repair to join the gap ?

[@LakesideAutobody]

I purposely left it open but I used to also repair the inner panel too. Leaving it open allows salt water and debris to exit easily and not get trapped. Your choice. I like a solid inner panel but lots of drainage.

[@tigerseye73]

Lakeside: Just to share, I made a heavy duty trailer about 40 years ago. I used 20 ga. for the flat sided fenders. I didn't have a long sheet bender, and ended up building them in three sections, then brazing the lap joints with a silver alloy solder. That trailer has thousands of miles on it now in all kinds of Ohio weather. Its spent its whole life outside in the elements and those damn fenders have never rusted. They are also strong enough for a man to walk on. Appreciate you sharing your knowledge.

[@LakesideAutobody]

Thank you so much for that story - lots of folks think that somehow a small overlap is going to rust instantly - it doesn't - the whole car is lap welded or pinch welded together at the factory and it lasts a good ten years before any rust starts.

[@marcusw4831]

Nice job. Similar to my fender repair on my caprice. How thick MIG wire do you use 0,023?

[@LakesideAutobody]

.023 - Have a good Thanksgiving

[@deankay4434]

Dam, my welder, tips and drive wheels only go down to 0.30”.

[@marcusw4831]

@@deankay4434 it should be possible do machine 0,023 wheels if you have a lathe.. or buy spares..0.023 makes a big difference.. a lot easier to weld

[@deankay4434]

marcus w >You are right on the money with you idea. Sheet metal is a different challenge from frames, exhaust and other mechanical task. Unfortunately, the job required makes this drive wheel expensive as the drill the hole in large bar stock, broach the key-way, center it in the chuck and make several passes to achieve a concentric O.D., cut 1/2 of the 0.023”, then cut it loose with a parting tool. Other that, it’s easy. I wish! But, I just wanted to tell you thanks for the excellent idea. Hopefully, I could take my drive wheel into a welding supply and get lucky with something they have or could order. I have shim stock in my tool box down to 0.001” used back on vehicles to go 1 under and 2 under on the other bearing shells. A trick we used in the late 60’s and early 70’s from a 23 Chrysler tech who works 11 years at a speed shop. He and I build his shop behind his house, put one air/oil lift and could close the doors with a school bus and two cars inside. Carl was the nicest man I ever met and has since passed. Auto ASE Master since 78, now retired. Thanks much!

[@marcusw4831]

@@deankay4434 Its allways possible to buy another welding machine and sell the old one...or buy an extra. I am from Sweden and I payed 250 usd for ar mig/ mag welder.if you use gas then you skuld have drive wheels produced for solid wire..flux wire wheels has a rougher surface in order to get a better grip. DO NOT hav to much tension on de drive wheels ...when you feed wire perpenedicular to a surface then there should allmoust be slippage on the drive wheels. If not the thinner 0.023 wire tend to buckle near the drive wheels

[@recharge5620]

Excellent. The tape on the body line is a great idea. Thanks

[@LakesideAutobody]

You're welcome Recharge :)

[@mr00dito]

Thanks for the great advice and simple video instructions keep building my friend

[@LakesideAutobody]

Thanks - glad you like the simple approach - that's really all I can do. I'll keep them coming - have a great weekend.

[@oldschoolcars3318]

This is not great advice. This is shortcuts that do not yield a durable job. Lap welds die quickly of condensate and just start the whole process over again.

[@rayjackson4547]

Nice, easy explanation. What would you do on the underside of the lip to keep water from rusting it out. Would do more welding or some sort of sealer? Thanks Ray

[@LakesideAutobody]

I found this to be the best way to prevent future rust - kzbin.info/www/bejne/bonEi3WvbKx2baM

[@199331939]

I learned a few tips and tricks thanks you good video sr!

[@LakesideAutobody]

You're welcome my friend

[@stevenmurphy1144]

Me too, and I came here just for that reason, I think even some tips on welding will help a lot.

[@davidg5704]

Should we use dtm sealer before adding filler? Both sides? Thank you Jerry

[@LakesideAutobody]

You do not have to put anything over bare metal before spreading filler. It may help though on the back side. Usually (if I can get to the back) I'll sand blast it back there and hit it with good rubberized undercoating - that seals it real well.

[@davidg5704]

@@LakesideAutobody Thank you. Truck bed coating good too?

[@tony1798]

What about the back side, how do you treat and make sure it dosen't rust from inside

[@LakesideAutobody]

After the repair is finished - I like to either coat the back with undercoating if I can reach it - If not I squirt some used motor oil inside the panel near the repair which eventually coats everything around the patch like an old valve cover - nice and greasy - never rusting

[@tony1798]

How about if the repair was a qaurter panel how would you make inside look like it was never a repair. Love the video, and I believe shops will do exactly what you did on video

[@LakesideAutobody]

@@tony1798 On this repair, I cut out the rust on the inner panel and just left it open so that salt water and debris could exit easily. On a customer car or classic car you would repair the inner panel also, undercoat the back and make that look nice too. Hope that answers you ?

[@marcushennings9513]

Thank goodness I got my vehicle in Texas so it has virtually no rust but I notice you can dang near see through the entire vehicle due to rust holes when they are driven in snowy areas

[@LakesideAutobody]

@@marcushennings9513 Absolutely. Living in the rust belt is tough. The salt used on the roads really mess cars and trucks up - brake lines, fuel lines, tanks, body panels - all take a beating.

[@ghayathanis3649]

Thanks for the video it’s very helpful, I’m wondering if you guys can fix my rear end frame, where the shock connects to the frame?

[@LakesideAutobody]

What's wrong with it?

[@puffyelvis5895]

Curious, how much would you charge for this repair and how long do you warranty it? Great vid

[@filibertobarrera3839]

As a body,paint guy myself.Its 150 dollars labor for repair and spot paint,plus 100 bucks material.but many professional shops charge 500 bucks for this same repair.

[@adamreynolds1851]

Never give warranty on rust ,there a reason it's call auto motive Cancer ,when you fix it your just buying time

[@DaDaDo661]

@@filibertobarrera3839 yeah I'd say $500 minimum. Especially in 2022, a lot of the masters are retiring

[@wtaylorg]

Thanks for the video. Very informative. I liked the tape suggestion for the body line.

[@LakesideAutobody]

Thanks for watching and have a good week :)

[@davewoode6385]

used to butt weld a patch like that with oxy-acetalene , hammer and dolly, shrink, perfect!

[@LakesideAutobody]

Nice - you must have been a darn good oxy-ace welder.

[@deutschedog3259]

Dave, I used to work the same as you. This is a get in get out fast an cheap job. Though I am now retired I have gone back to Oxy Acetylene welding, best for dirty rusty metal. An a bit of a breeze does not affect it. Mig is great for beginners working on nice clean new metal. As to Bondo etc, only to be used for filling Dinks.

[@jdbchrome1512]

Quick question l like the idea of welding the patch in,sometimes a person isn't able to seal from the back side and after a short while l end up getting water bubbles under the paint, how do you seal behind to keep moisture out? Thank you for the great video 👍

[@LakesideAutobody]

First - do you knock the patch down? If not, it will likely fail. Another thing you can do is make sure your welds are right next to each other - no space between. Allow for drainage even if you have to drill or cut slots or something. Finally after the repair try this if you can't seal the back side with undercoat or paint - kzbin.info/www/bejne/bonEi3WvbKx2baM Let me know if any of that helps :)

[@endless_touge]

Now i expect my eyes to hurt because i looked straight to the flame :)

[@LakesideAutobody]

That is so funny because I thought the same thing when I watched it back while editing. I'm laughing.

[@endless_touge]

@@LakesideAutobody :) For real it's pretty dangerous. . Anyway nice job. I will do with fiberglass because it's easier as a beginner.

[@marshalllhiepler]

I always wear a welding helmet when watching these vids. Of course, I can't see a damn thing, but I feel much safer.

[@endless_touge]

@@marshalllhiepler :))

[@zoomjoo]

not to worry, your computer screen can't emit the level of light that the welding machine is emitting

[@blazertheminecrafter]

If you put a backing clamp behind the wheel well, do you have to worry about warping as long as you keep the clamp there till it cools?

[@LakesideAutobody]

I think it would help but sheet metal can expand pretty fast and you may get a bit of buckling between the clamps. Every situation is a bit different so as long as you monitor it while you're welding you'll be fine. Weld till you see a bit of distortion and back off. Jerry

[@HansSoloYolo]

No gloves? This man is a savage

[@LakesideAutobody]

Usually I wear them but for the video it's hard if I have to adjust something quick or get something fast.

[@ws56c62]

Great vid thank you! What were your welding settings, wire speed, power setting etc? Thank you!

[@LakesideAutobody]

This was done with a MILLER MILLERMATIC 90 - 110v, .023" wire, 75/25 mix gas on 20 cfh, wire speed on 35, heat or volts on 2 (out of 4). If you have more ?s - just ask :)

[@azdirtlife4280]

This is the first time I have seen one of your videos. I had to laugh at the toilet paper in the background 🤣🤣

[@SundownBlazer]

In case sht happens :)

[@TruthHurtLiars]

Toilet paper WAS the cheapest panel cleaning product which didn't leave any lint or residue when used with prepsol.

[@jayarnold8883]

That toilet paper is likely used in his compressed air filter.

[@austinl3625]

Do you have to paint/prime/protect the backside of the welded area to prevent rust? Does the heat from welding make the metal more susceptible to rusting?

[@LakesideAutobody]

No to both. Here's the best way to prevent future rust - kzbin.info/www/bejne/bonEi3WvbKx2baM

[@TheeeDannyD]

No gloves? His hands must be already leather.

[@yachtsteve]

That's all you can do is check for OSHA violations. This is a great video and we appreciate people sharing this, use your OSHA violation detector in your own shop. I do what I do at my shop you do what you do at your shop but you don't need to go around making sure everybody's OSHA compliant for Pete's sake

[@vannigiovannigio8861]

@@TheeeDannyD You must have woman hands.

[@euchrewacko]

A man who takes pride in his work! Looks great. Here is a stupid question - is it imperative that you remove that panel from the vehicle before doing work like this?

[@LakesideAutobody]

Sorry about the late reply - you don't have to remove the panel.

[@houseoffire72]

And within 2-3 yrs its rusted out again...

[@LakesideAutobody]

With respect, that's not true. Please watch these 2 short vids - let me know what you think. kzbin.info/www/bejne/aKCWaJeOYpKqZqs kzbin.info/www/bejne/bonEi3WvbKx2baM

[@nickking1510]

houseoffire72 oil spray all repairs

[@LakesideAutobody]

@@nickking1510 Absolutely! Works very well - that stuff creeps into every crevice.

[@nickking1510]

I drive older cars and trucks I even spray the frame of my 1976 vette and all suspension components the car frame look like new after 38 years .Also own a 1992 tracker 4x4 looks like new oil it annually driven in rust belt ,only draw back is if you need to weld

[@mitchsumner2831]

Lap welds over bare-ass metal will usually do that! (Rust back out)

[@thebeardedstork432]

Back when I was young, I bought a brand new 1978 Chev van. The front of the hood rotted out something fierce! The dealership body shop repaired it multiple times over the rust warranty period and they filled the area in with lead (which I was totally shocked at!)! I doubt they cut much, if any of the rusted metal out first and then totally repainted the entire hood. I recall pleading with them to just let me buy a new hood and have them paint it. It should have saved a ton of labor! They would not oblige me and just kept repairing until they didn't have to! Being young, I didn't fight them on it. Now I am a crusty old man and would love to take a run at them! LOL Nice job on the video btw!

[@LakesideAutobody]

Yep - today, you wouldn't stand for it. They would probably see it in your eyes and not even challenge you. I think a lot of young people get burned like that - it's a darn shame too 😢

[@chig9357]

great info,new sub!

[@LakesideAutobody]

Glad you like it - thanks

[@MrWookLoaf]

Great video. Would you ever use a die grinder with a sanding disc on it for those tricky to sand spots, or would you typically stick with the sanding blocks?

[@LakesideAutobody]

most guys I worked with used just two blocks - the 5" rubber block and a long board. Both used the same paper that comes on a roll. Body shops provided board paper and DA paper - that's it. You can use anything that works for you though :)

[@MrWookLoaf]

@@LakesideAutobody cool, thanks for the reply.

[@davemcdonald8790]

Damn ! I got welding flash! 🤨

[@UpTheClock]

great video. Love the bucket and toilet paper!

[@robertspicer3716]

Lap welding on exterior body panels is hack work.

[@LakesideAutobody]

Please direct the viewer to a video fixing this type of damage with your method - kzbin.info/www/bejne/aWfdnJZviraUitU or this kzbin.info/www/bejne/fprah4eJjquaeJY also see this video for more information on these types of repairs - kzbin.info/www/bejne/bonEi3WvbKx2baM

[@limestonecowboy9219]

Finally a repair video where someone actually knows what the hell they're doing..thanks for representing the correct way to be a good body man.

[@LakesideAutobody]

Thanks so much for the support. This really is the standard procedure for rust repair in Michigan body shops. I worked at some very good quality body shops with great reputations and this is how it was done and how they still do it there. There are some shops that use adhesives for certain types of rust repair too. It's good to know every method and use the method that fits the repair and I will be providing those on this channel. Again, glad you liked it and thanks. Have a good weekend. BTW - like the "limestone cowboy" name - good channel too :)

[@donniedale3522]

I really dont believe I would want your shops to do any body work for me. You should not lap metal patches. To much filler then applied.

[@LakesideAutobody]

Please see this video for longevity of this type of repair if done correctly: kzbin.info/www/bejne/bonEi3WvbKx2baM or kzbin.info/www/bejne/aKCWaJeOYpKqZqs It really is the best method and the only practical way to do it. Metal is only 6 hairs thick so you can't be trying to metal finish patches with a grinder - you'll end up with paper thin welds and adjacent metal. Hope that helps :)

[@m.mooverssr9211]

He is not doing a 100k dollar resto he is patching a rust hole. in Michigan they have a lot of them

[@djpaulk]

@@donniedale3522 You seem to not understand the repair...

[@PaulDali009]

@@donniedale3522 why shouldn't metal patches be laped and what do you believe?

[@donniedale3522]

@@PaulDali009 You have to knock the metal joint down and fill it with filler. Also at the point where the patch overlaps, seems like a natural place to accumulate more rust, cause the metal is lapped. Ever notice a door skin where its lapped at the bottom from the factory, there is always rust.

[@willshaw7643]

Any advantage to zinc priming before filler? Going to be doing some metal work and want to preserve before I make it to the paint shop.

[@LakesideAutobody]

There's no advantage to priming before filling unless you are going to leave it outside in the elements for years. Body shops don't prime before filling as they know that the paint is the ultimate sealer of everything underneath. Again if you are going to leave bare metal exposed for a long time then OK - hit it with some epoxy primer or even regular primer. See this vid for more on that - kzbin.info/www/bejne/sHirqXWolLGjsK8

[@joehovanec1985]

You shouldn't be spreading body filler over bare metal. Should at least use metal etching primer over steel. That repair patch should be butt welded to fender with weldable primer underneath.

[@lawncuttingplusdelta]

Your one of those guys ! How do you know that !! … filler over metal has been going on for years and is still going. !!!

[@Redfiregtag]

They fill any defects over the metal at the factory. I'm sure it's fine

[@sascandave]

Nasty repair I would kick him out of my shop

[@ferguscolman354]

Absolute Baloney ! A thick layer of body filler is as good as High Build Primer, and there is no logic to applying filler on top of primer when better adhesion is guaranteed onto bare metal ! Primer is alleged to be hygroscopic, and Body Filler is not !

[@TooThPasTe07]

Also, make sure the metal is graded!!

[@jwjco]

Does this type of repair job have to be done again next year ? After the road salt season.

[@LakesideAutobody]

If done correctly it can last many years. Use small overlap, weld solid and you won’t have to worry about moisture and rust - especially if you keep the drain holes clean (most important thing in rust prevention). Note that the opening of the seam is upside down on the inside also. Please see this video for longevity of this type of repair if done correctly: kzbin.info/www/bejne/bonEi3WvbKx2baM or kzbin.info/www/bejne/aKCWaJeOYpKqZqs

[@stricht8]

Butt weld the damn thing for Christ sake!

[@LakesideAutobody]

It's your choice really. My philosophy is this: New quarters, rockers, door skins are all installed with lap or plug welds. The auto industry uses 5000 welds on average per car and none of them are butt welds. If a new car lasts 10 years driving in salt water so will a lap welded repair if done right. Plus, there's not a rust hole out there that can't be fixed easily with a combo of butt and lap. You'd spend way too much time grinding the welds flush on really big rust repairs and I know you'd end up with paper thin welds and paper thin adjacent sheet metal. One more thing - It wouldn't fly in a body shop and you would soon be let go for being slow, wasting discs, and looking crazy trying to butt weld stuff. Really! pls see this vid - kzbin.info/www/bejne/bonEi3WvbKx2baM

[@stricht8]

Lakeside Autobody If its a crappy beater car I get it, but a proper rust repair should be butt welded. I get what you say about time to grind welds flush and yes it’s time consuming and yes the adjacent metal can get thin if you are not good. I guess I’m just in the restoration mindset where lap welding patch panels is not acceptable.

[@LakesideAutobody]

@@stricht8 With respect, how can you guarantee the thickness of your work after you grind it flush. I promise there is paper thin areas in the welds and the adjacent metal. No one's a robot welder. Plus, I never see you guys fix anything bigger than a 2x2 inch perfect square, you never show the back side, or the whole process like you're hiding something (filler, primer etc) I know what the back of a lap repair looks like - 22 gauge metal. Would you butt weld a new rocker panel, quarter panel, or door skin on? Heck no - it's all lap. So lap weld here yet butt weld there - ???? Nice talking with you - Jerry

[@joshuehernandez9514]

Okay thanke for this video. I'm currently trying to get this fix and was wondering how they did it.

[@LakesideAutobody]

You're welcome :)

[@billpickelheimer8142]

This is how a untrained on the side guy might do a patch ,it's NOT how QUALITY shops would ever patch a panel . Weld it 100% tigh to keep moisture from getting to the back , ten use water tight marine filler first ., Never lap on the outside of a panel ,if you can't fit it to make quality butt welds , put it inside the panel

[@LakesideAutobody]

See these videos for information on why the highest quality Michigan/Detroit area body shops use this method: kzbin.info/www/bejne/gHqsoKGAhLulpZY *** Also see Eastwood’s explanation: kzbin.info/www/bejne/qKGrZmOhnZmKZpI *** For longevity of this type of repair see: kzbin.info/www/bejne/bonEi3WvbKx2baM

[@deutschedog3259]

Bill, You said what I was about to say. That is not a weld, just a collection of tacks. Very poor workmanship.

[@billpickelheimer8142]

I don't know what you at lakeside auto body seen in your Eastwood demo , but it sure looks like a nice but weld with an edge bent in it with the special vise grips. Again as I said if it's actually welded with correct penetration then when it's ground down the weld is not compromised ,the weld is actually still thicker then the material you welded because the is penetrated reinforcement on the back side still. If the back side of the weld doesn't look like the front side it really isn't welded correctly. If you have a piece of sheet metal lapped on top of a panel that spot will always be to high unless you beat the whole area down and fill like crazy with Bondo.

[@LakesideAutobody]

@@billpickelheimer8142 For longevity of this type of repair see: kzbin.info/www/bejne/bonEi3WvbKx2baM Honestly you won't find larger body shops butt welding patch panels - that's more of a tv/magazine thing because they want people to believe that cars are fixed w/o filler in the "best shops"

[@LakesideAutobody]

@@deutschedog3259 For longevity of this type of repair see: kzbin.info/www/bejne/bonEi3WvbKx2baM

[@rickchristensen3636]

Thank you for sharing your tallents with mig welding body work

[@LakesideAutobody]

You're welcome Rick - Happy New Year :)

[@whateverforevermusic]

Could you make a video on the specifics of using bondo and getting the seam to disappear? I've tried multiple tests with scrap metal and pieces of fenders pulled from the junkyard. There is always a noticeable dip or inconsistency in the seam that I can't work out. Would switching to a finer filler at this stage benefit me?

[@LakesideAutobody]

Don't switch - use regular filler. I will be doing a bunch of rust repair vids coming up and will surely address that. For now though this might help - kzbin.info/www/bejne/qKeTpnVjj9ulfNE Tap your seam down and follow this video exactly to hide the seam. Keep asking ?s my friend - you'll get this for sure :)

[@LtCatfish]

i like how he was already almost done with repair but still managed to make the video 13 minutes

[@billsmith5166]

Nice job. Even the work you did on the patch piece was well done.

[@LakesideAutobody]

Thanks BIll - I appreciate that :)

[@waynewilliams5802]

Here in Mississippi they grind out rust, take a gallon of Bondo and start filling. Looks good for about a year if u stay off of gravel roads

[@LakesideAutobody]

How's living in Mississippi?

[@chuckschillingvideos]

I can't imagine there would be a great need for rust repairs in Mississippi? You don't get a lot of foul weather there do you?

[@stuckinnj9554]

What are you using for undercoating/body wax and how are you applying?

[@LakesideAutobody]

This is what I do on my own cars - kzbin.info/www/bejne/bonEi3WvbKx2baM When working (retired 2016) we used 3M rubberized undercoating and made sure the panel could drain and stay dry.

[@michaelcoulter4226]

Thank you for this video it really helped me out as I tackle my 1995 gmc on welding technique

[@LakesideAutobody]

Glad it helped - thanks for the comment :)

[@michaelcoulter4226]

Much welcome

[@robertw5008]

I'm a beginner what type of autobody hammer do you use to knock the panel down with? Does harbor freight have the hammer?

[@LakesideAutobody]

You can use the pointed hammer in this kit - www.harborfreight.com/body-and-fender-set-7-pc-63259.html

[@alicenfred]

Can the metal patch you weld on go on the inside? or outside like the video shows? What is preferred or recommended?

[@LakesideAutobody]

It's always welded to the outside - no matter what you hear elsewhere. Most times you can't put the patch on the inside so it's good to get fast and efficient doing it one way all the time. I suppose the longevity would be the same though - can't really see why one would last longer than the other :)

[@superdragon9293]

Yes indeed your pointers came out great...im doin work on a 66 Mustang Coupe..... quarter panels.....(cut out and replaced both sides)...got small holes in both front fenders near the doors...no sweat.....oh my gosh wish i could send you pics.

[@LakesideAutobody]

You can and I'd love to see 'em - schoolvideolibrary at gmail - Jerry

[@johnboy6635]

Would a fiberglass repair last just as long vs welded patch?

[@LakesideAutobody]

It can if the panel can drain and dry out inside. No moisture = no rust 😊😊

[@alcopower5710]

Thank you for sharing your knowledge and creating these videos. Think I can speak for everyone in that we truly appreciate the effort it takes to make videos. Merry Christmas 🎄

[@LakesideAutobody]

Thanks a lot AP - I appreciate the kind words. Merry Christmas to you my friend and Happy New Year :)

[@123albertini]

Is the door panel to be removed for welding?what if welding is done without removing the panel?

[@LakesideAutobody]

Usually the door is left on (door bottom repair) so that you can check the gap as you go. Ask again if I didn't answer your ?

[@robertw5008]

Do I need to buy hammer and dolly set just to knock the panel down to use bondo filler? Does Harbor freight have this hammer and dolly set? What type of hammer is needed so I can buy?

[@LakesideAutobody]

HF body hammer set will work

[@JessBuntyn]

What type of MIG Welder are you using to make these tacks and welds?

[@LakesideAutobody]

It's a Miller Millermatic 90. 110v, .023" wire, 75/25 gas

[@guLlygotaGLoCk]

Can fiberglass & resin be used for larger fender holes?

[@LakesideAutobody]

Yes - it all depend on how creative you can get with it.

[@roblord7610]

How is the back of the repair inside the fender finished ?

[@LakesideAutobody]

You can finish it how you want. I always make sure there is solid metal to weld the patch to, make sure it can drain, either undercoat it or treat it after the paint work like this - kzbin.info/www/bejne/bonEi3WvbKx2baM

[@robertallen5531]

Any advice on rear fender well repair on 80s dodge ram where you can't get to the backside of the fender to clean up rust

[@LakesideAutobody]

Do you want to repair the fender well (rear body panel)? Is your quarter panel still good but you want to just fix inner panel?

[@robertallen5531]

@@LakesideAutobody it's got small rust holes on the outside. I was trying to figure out how to kill the surface rust out on the inner side so it won't get worse if I use fiberglass or something to fill the holes

[@LakesideAutobody]

@@robertallen5531 For the fastest easiest way to fix your exact situation check out this video - kzbin.info/www/bejne/qIG3kph-ZZpppMk As for rust prevention in the future, most important is making sure that area can drain and dry out - there might be a pile of wet debris behind those bubbles. Also check out this video - kzbin.info/www/bejne/bonEi3WvbKx2baM for a simple, effective rust preventative :)

[@robertallen5531]

@@LakesideAutobody thank you so much for taking the time to respond and help me.

[@LakesideAutobody]

@@robertallen5531 👍😊

[@brianoneil5698]

Excellent video from start to finish. Thanks for posting !

[@LakesideAutobody]

You're welcome Brian - thanks for watching :)

[@Nick_Greenfield]

I love watching a master work.

[@LakesideAutobody]

I appreciate your kind words Nick - have a great week :)

[@rbelang8331]

I was wondering what you did with the inside of the wheel arch; we see you welding and finishing the outside... but what's up with where the 2 sheets of metal join? Do you also weld? Or just use plain body seal? Thanks! Your vids are important references...

[@LakesideAutobody]

You can drill a few holes in the first layer and plug weld the outer to the inner. I like to make sure there is a drain hole or cut out for water and debris to escape to prevent future rust. This also helps prevent future rust - kzbin.info/www/bejne/bonEi3WvbKx2baM

[@rbelang8331]

@@LakesideAutobody Thanks for your generosity... I'll try that (and look at your ref vid).

[@lachlansutherland5082]

What size mig wire do you use and do you need argon and co2

[@LakesideAutobody]

.023" wire and I believe the gas I get is 80/20 argon/co2 mix.

[@johnsutter1497]

Can you recommend a good economical spray gun and have you ever used a mecotorch or a cobra torch I like oxyacetylene but I seem to crater the metal thank you for your time

[@LakesideAutobody]

Harbor freight has some good new guns and all of them work well even the $9 one - here's some videos that may help: kzbin.info/www/bejne/oqirdYCZebyJsLM - kzbin.info/www/bejne/innGYaljZrmAq8k I have not used a mecotorch or a cobra torch but I'll check them out. Glad you enjoyed the video and you're welcome :)

[@drewwalker1644]

Great video. As a beginner would be keen to see the hammering down bit :)

[@LakesideAutobody]

Here's a video on exactly that - kzbin.info/www/bejne/oofOmGqJnLmqaZI

[@bruceturek3412]

a true artist at work and im learning a lot great video

[@LakesideAutobody]

Thanks - I'm glad I can share it - Happy Holidays

[@calebmcgrath3564]

Hey I'm restoring a k1500 its my first major project as far as body work goes do you have any recommendations for cab corner repair I have to replace the entire bottom of the cab so any tips or things to avoid. Any info would be helpful thank you.

[@LakesideAutobody]

These may help - if not ask again. kzbin.info/www/bejne/f2m5h5-Pha6cnaM or kzbin.info/www/bejne/rYPPYoScoNd1m7s

[@oscarsaenz4797]

What kind of welder did you use? How many volts

[@LakesideAutobody]

That was a Miller Millermatic 90, 110v, .023 wire - great welder BTW

[@samuelwarren8737]

I know this is kind of an old post, but I have a 3 roof holes about the size of a dime or smaller can I patch those with this method or should I try something else? Thanks.

[@LakesideAutobody]

With roof rust holes I would just knock them down grind them clean and use fiber glass re-enforced body filler. You are not going to have to worry about rust again because it's on the roof - there should not be any water or debris getting trapped up there to cause rust again. I have no problem doing that - see this video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/qIG3kph-ZZpppMk for more info on that :)

[@samuelwarren8737]

@@LakesideAutobody Thanks!

[@alicenfred]

Are you using gas or gasless mig welding? I havent had to good of luck with gasless?

[@LakesideAutobody]

Gas on this patch but here's a good vid on gasless - kzbin.info/www/bejne/n5SaeKqcbd5nj8U

[@alborgdenmark26]

Might have missed something earlier here but, what kind/type electric welding maching are you using here? Thank you so much for your kindly assistance/expertise.

[@LakesideAutobody]

You're welcome - glad you appreciate the vids. I use a Miller 90 (110v). I really like Miller welders but that's just 'casue I've always used them.

[@robertclymer6948]

Hi Michigan brother! For body work, I would think the Mig is gas shielded.?? I didn't see any splatter. Nice job, easy to understand.

[@LakesideAutobody]

Yes - that was a Miller Millermatic 90 w/ .023 wire, gas. Yeah MI! Boo Michigan sports :( Lions:( TIgers:( Pistons :( Red Wings :(

[@deankay4434]

On areas that are open on the back side, or one panel thick, I prefer using a pneumatic flange tool. I take a clean part of the portion removed then for this thickness, place it in the back jaws. Off-set 3/8” and overlap by 5/16”. Strong weld, depth and thickness completely adjustable and starts off smooth. If anything, wire brush the back and seam seal. Rust goes uphill also. Everyone has a way of doing the same repair, but clean, wiped the first layer of filler thin & hard to introduce the fillers chemicals deep into future air pockets but allow the chemicals onto the metal to start the interaction. Like tooth for primer or paint. It’s rust. Good epoxy is adding to the cost, but after all, how long will it last? 1 winter or 10+ years?

[@LakesideAutobody]

You are absolutely right on the rust goes uphill. Starts at the very bottom of the panel where the salt water and debris gets trapped. I like the idea of tight first layer of filler too it probably does help a lot. Have a good week :)

[@C0Y0TE5]

Use fiberglass pre-mix to seal and also to create a structurally stronger surface, esp at edges. Polyester filler can hold water and increase rusting under your repair. Fiberglass seals, and the rust has to work ABOVE your repaired area before you see it again. Bubbling bodywork indicates water contamination.

[@adollarshort1573]

I just saw your video for the first time. Excellent! You could be an instructor! I haven't read the comments yet so my next remark may have been answered/commented on. I would like to see how you made the patch. There seemed to be some metal forming and welding just to make that patch. Very interesting... Thank You!

[@LakesideAutobody]

I will do a video on that - there are a few different ways you can match the patch to a curve. Good topic for a video.

[@adollarshort1573]

@@LakesideAutobody Thanks again! Look forward to video. Your really good!

[@LakesideAutobody]

@@adollarshort1573 Thanks - glad you enjoy them - have a good weekend

[@alihalabi5710]

Will this prevent rust from coming again? I saw a used car that i like but has some rust bubbles under the paint on door rims, and i read somewhere that even after you fix rust it will come back again. How accurate is this? And do you think i should get the car or it is not worth it?

[@LakesideAutobody]

If this is done correctly it will last longer than you have the car - see vid - kzbin.info/www/bejne/n5XVfa2pr5eYgsk That being said, I wouldn't buy anything with rust. Look underneath - if it's rusty and crusty, that means rusted brake lines, fuel lines, etc. No mechanic want to work on rust buckets and it will cost you.

[@alihalabi5710]

@LakesideAutobody thank you for your reply

[@hihoney1122]

Great video came for the airgun use help and really like your talent. Fender looks perfect🎉 subscribed

[@LakesideAutobody]

Thanks for the sub - here's a follow up on this repair 5 years later - kzbin.info/www/bejne/n5XVfa2pr5eYgsk

[@samcollinson2141]

hi jerry, what gauge steel do you use for your patches?

[@LakesideAutobody]

.030" or 22 gauge & .035" 20 gauge - Both work well for patches :)

[@kennethwood9025]

As always great video for reference. I have a couple of questions, are you welding with flux core wire or regular wire and argon shield. Also what thickness metal are you using to fabricate with. Thanks!

[@LakesideAutobody]

That was 22 gauge or .030". I was using a Miller 110v Millermatic w/ regular wire and 75/25 argon/co2. If you are doing a patch like this here is another video with an alternative way to make the lip - kzbin.info/www/bejne/f4PKpYqfgKZqi7s

[@bombdiggitydave3881]

Excellent questions KW. Thanks for asking them and thank you L.A. for answering them.

[@Austin-qe8xy]

@@LakesideAutobodywhat settings do you run?

[@LakesideAutobody]

@@Austin-qe8xy On the Miller wire speed is around 35 (on the dial) and heat is a 2 usually - 1 if you are blowing through. Generally start at low heat and move up as needed. If you blow through - less heat - if it's sort of bubble gumming or not penetrating well turn it up. Wire feed can be wet according to the chart provided by the welder or in the manual. Basically it won't weld well if there is too much wire feeding or too little. Make sure the gas is set correctly too. Wire is .023". :)