Fitting at Home / All-Fit Master Iron Adapters

[@lorenreyes2855]

Man that looks like a lot of work! Heck of a job! That must be a lot of Pride of Accomplishment! Especially when everything works like a dream!

[@jonathanwestbrooks3091]

This is so fascinating! I don’t think anyone on KZbin is as detailed as you. Thanks for sharing.

[@stevie-jayjohnson2101]

Is it just me or is this just absolutely fascinating stuff to watch. I LOVE watching your videos. If I could afford to fly to America and do one of your courses on club building I would be there in a shot. Thank you for this content

[@normansykes8872]

Man that’s a lot of work to go through to use those types of adapters. It just goes to show what really goes on behind the scenes. It’s harder for you because it’s just you. I enjoy watching your videos. They’re very informative and helpful. Also you bought up a great point that some people won’t think of when getting a fitting. And that’s the weight of these fitting clubs vs the actual club you will be playing with. Great video!

[@tjmeyer3037]

Instead of masking tape you may consider putting an appropriate shaft collar on your drill bits. They're not affected by heat and even a blind man can bore to the correct depth. Keep up the great work and thanks!

[@DominickArchitects]

You make great videos AJ! They are detailed and extremely helpful.

[@noonster55]

I just put on a new adapter on a shaft for my new driver, a Cobra LTDX. Thanks for showing me how. Also how to trim the shaft and put a new grip on. The adapter comes with a bolt. How do I get that bolt into the driver head. As you know, there's a tiny rubber o-ring I have no clue how to get int the tiny hole and onto the bolt.

[@EFGMC]

Screw goes in the head from the sole, the rubber washer goes down the hosel and is used to keep that screw from falling out.

[@noonster55]

@@EFGMC My problem is getting the rubber washer back in and back onto the screw. No way to get my fingers in the tiny hole in the hosel where the shaft goes, to get the washer back on the screw.

[@EFGMC]

@@noonster55 Balance it or use a tiny piece of double sided tape to keep the washer on the tip of the adapter. Stick that into the head with shaft and washer pointing up. Then get the screw and screw it down into the adapter. After you fully tighten it, you should be able to unscrew the shaft and the washer will stay seated on the screw.

[@noonster55]

Thanks I’m on it now.

[@MagnusEschment]

Hi there, I am a clubfitter myself and thinking about switching to the system. I have a few questions. 1) When you drill out the hosel, the wall thickness gets reduced. Did you experience problems with that where the hosel is very small and does that influence the ability to bend lie/loft of the irons? 2) Did you experience problems with the screw thread? Regarding the conex system that we use the weakest chain is the screw thread. What is it for the all-fit? 3) Do you experience broken hosels for very fast players? Another remark: different heads have different hosel depths and diameters, that would mean that drilling out would also result in different head weight differences... You probably need to adjust how much to drill out for every head seperatly, right? Thanks already! Loved your video!

[@dadthumbsz5533]

Love this....I want this dream situation

[@jarisalmi6484]

Well, maybe i am done with golf! Great video thou! Have fun!

[@hankwy]

Does the All Fit Master meet R&A and USGA equipment standards. I noticed that the driver adapter list R&A but no mention on thr All Fit kit.

[@EFGMC]

Would need to ask them. I'm not sure.

[@buddy4184]

Great content mate if a person was to go and bore the hosel for a permanent fix ie epoxy what size bore would I need for a .335 steel shaft to allow room for epoxy

[@EFGMC]

It should be right around .335 as well. You ideally want a fit with minimal play in it.

[@rhankejr]

Do these adapters work for left handed players the same way they do for right handed? If so, do you have to install them "backwards" if using on left handed heads?

[@EFGMC]

All the same.

[@fredbosco6104]

Maybe a dumb question but, why does the manufacturer just make the original metal piece a 16th" thinner? Even our brilliant club maker says, "Right now, this will not fit in any shaft" before setting up his drill press. Anyone explain?

[@sonysand8202]

What tape is used when installing grips with air? Double sided or masking tape. Also link to air install tool? Thanks

[@EFGMC]

Masking tape. kzbin.info/www/bejne/rKaqn6OseaqEq6M Tire Inflator, Cobalt brand from Lowes.

[@paulbutler5052]

In Melbourne, Australia we had long lockdowns so I watched your vids a lot and built my own set including the 8 iron shaft into my wedges - brilliant!! My question is on the swing weight scale I have a round cylinder weight to balance - but I don’t know what side to read the weight on? Left or right … I’ve made all my irons D3 if it’s left side , I just went by feel and matched all the irons to that feel. But I’d like to know if I was right Thank you

[@EFGMC]

Not sure without seeing the scale but if you are trying to spec check it, I would use one of the online swing weight calculators. kzbin.info/www/bejne/qXukfYh4p5pkoKs

[@katos84770]

what speed were you using on the press? Thanks!

[@EFGMC]

The lowest I could on that machine.

[@katos84770]

What size is your drill press...I want to get the correct size that will have enough clearance for the drill bit to fit underneath with the club head....not sure what to get. Thanks!

[@EFGMC]

It's a standard Ryobi table top press. That said, I've started taking my heads to a local metal shop to do the drilling. Industrial press makes it far far easier I think.

[@pbode1]

AJ, I recently noticed something with my clubs that I never realized. I thought of asking you - maybe do a subject video on it? (loved the video to measure your club length DIY) This is the topic: I have been fitted to ping i525 irons 5-PW and based on these specs I got myself a customized set of pretty wonderful Mizuno S23 wedges. Now the shafts are different: the (75g) Alta CB AWT regular shafts on the pings are lighter than the KBS tour C tapers (105g) because I like a little heavier weight on these. I hardly make full swings with them. Now here's the interesting thing: if I do make a full swing, I feel the clubhead weight a lot more than I do with my Ping irons. I thought of putting them on a kitchen scale (horizontally, I can't take the heads off) to get an idea, and although this measurement is hardly scientific, the Mizuno wedges came out 20g heavier. Which matched with what I was feeling. To be honest, I must admit I like the feeling of a heavier head during swings, but that's besides the point and totally subjective. Now I already had one bubble burst over the last year (I used to think iron number lofts were regulated, NOT!), so is it true that manufacturers can just define their own head weights? if so, I am getting more and more respect for club fitters :-) So many variables!

[@EFGMC]

Most club heads will be pretty close to the equal number or loft because they are designed to go on a similar length shaft. Wedge heads will always be the heaviest because they are the shortest clubs. Long irons will be lightest. Most PW are around 288g, most sand wedges are closer to 300.

[@pbode1]

@@EFGMC Wow, I never realized that its normal for wedges to get progressively heavier with the loft. Is a lob wedge even heavier than a sand wedge as a rule of thumb? Massive thanks!

[@EFGMC]

@@pbode1 Often but not always. Some brands will have all the wedge heads weight the same, and some will have progressively heavier.

[@andrewcollins666]

Hi AJ. I've started using this adapter system on my shaft matrix but am having issues with excess epoxy at the bottom of the hosel preventing the shaft section getting all the way in to the clubhead. Did you come up against this and, if so, any tips?

[@EFGMC]

Yes, I originally was very light on the epoxy inside the hosel but ended up having a couple failures after extended use. Now I epoxy just like any golf club with epoxy on both the inside of hosel and outside of adapter. Once dry I have a drill bit that fits perfectly inside the adapter opening and allows me to gently remove enough dry epoxy so the shaft will fit and bottom out.

[@andrewcollins666]

@@EFGMC I'll definitely try that! Thanks so much for the quick reply.

[@andrewcollins666]

​@@EFGMCHi AJ. Quick follow up question, have you tried bending any of your demo heads with these in?

[@EFGMC]

@@andrewcollins666 Yes, they can.

[@andrewcollins666]

@@EFGMC Thanks mate.

[@64hoverair]

Wondering why you did not use a smaller pilot drill like a 3/8th first and than make the final cut with the 7/16th bit?

[@EFGMC]

Total novice at the drill press but I think this worked without needing to do it in stages. I would just say do it how you feel comfortable.

[@stevendickinson2897]

AJ can you make normal iron out of a demo iron head?

[@EFGMC]

Sure if it's just a standard head.

[@stevendickinson2897]

@@EFGMC the hosle has internal thread 5mm from top wil I use shim to centre shaft ?

[@palmw.4108]

Hi, What RPM speed on the drill press did you use?

[@EFGMC]

Slowest I could get on it. Want to say 1800??

[@seancook2264]

Do the adapters not come in alternative sizes to suit various manufacturers hosel? Seems to defeat the purpose of an adaptor that is not very adaptable if your having to drill out clubs?

[@EFGMC]

Only one size of head adapter that requires an 11.1 mm bore size. The shaft side offers both a .370 and .355 tip though I found the .355 was difficult to use with some shafts based on the thickness of the chrome. Really don't have any option when it comes to adapters, you will need to modify the head is some way otherwise the weight will change significantly. The other method used by some companies is to cut the hosel making it shorter. Not sure that is easier than just drilling.

[@vinnienaidu]

Nice work AJ, it would become an annual/2 year thing doing all new season heads. Can the adapters that go into the head be pulled and re-used or new ones would need to be bought? I guess on the plus side, once the shafts are done you won't need to do them again, particularly the tried and tested ones DG, PX etc. Do any OEM's use All Fit in their demo heads or all have their own proprietary ones? I know they vary from OEM to OEM. Great content again and thank you!

[@EFGMC]

They are titanium so they can be pulled and reused. I already had to pull some because I was too skimpy with the epoxy first go around and had some of the heads come loose.

[@CybekCusal]

If I want a 35.75 pitching wedge do I buy a 35" shaft? Is it always 0.75" more than the raw shaft length? Are all clubs the same adder?

[@EFGMC]

No one sells a 35 inch shaft unless it's a putter shaft. All wedge shafts will be around 36.5 or 37 at least and require you to butt cut them to length.

[@CybekCusal]

@@EFGMC Nippon N.S. Pro 1150GH Has 35" shaft for sale stock.

[@EFGMC]

@@CybekCusal Are they calling that a wedge shaft?

[@CybekCusal]

@@EFGMC it's listed under the iron shaft category in grips4less but the specific club this length is intended for is Wedge but I don't know what the ultimate club length will be if I buy this shaft and put it in the stealth approach wedge. The KBSMAX it came with has too much deflection.

[@EFGMC]

@@CybekCusal Should add at least an inch if not slightly more.

[@aywm6792]

Would be perfect if drilling isn't needed. But the purpose of the drilling is to remove the additional weight from the adaptor? Also where can we place an order for these adaptors?

[@EFGMC]

Correct. Most adapter set ups I've seen require drilling or cutting the head, otherwise the weight will be off. You can order the All Fit Master adapters from allfitgolf.com

[@aywm6792]

@@EFGMC Ah got it. Another question (hope you don't mind), by drilling the head, would it be safe to say it will require a shim or some sort if you don't use the adaptor in the future? ie. attaching it the conventional way

[@EFGMC]

@@aywm6792 Personally I don't think there is any way to go back once you drill it out. I don't know of any shim that will span that gap. Also the hosel is very thin at that point and I'd worry that it might deform. It's not a worry with the adapter since it's titanium and reinforces the hosel once installed, but once removed you could have a problem.

[@aywm6792]

@@EFGMC thanks for the clarification! Much appreciated

[@beng4647]

​@@EFGMCWill it effect my shot? How many seasons until they bend?

[@joecolucci2219]

I guess you tip trim the shaft normally if it were .370?

[@EFGMC]

Correct

[@bkirkwd52]

My understanding of drilling out hosels is that you needed 300 rpm or less. The drill press you are using is, i think, 500 or 600 rpm min. Please reply

[@EFGMC]

Not sure what the minimum speed is? Will have to look.

[@JamesSmith-gg7ed]

The "O" ring goes on the other side of the collar nut.

[@EFGMC]

Nope. This is how they say and show it ordered on both the website and in the basic instructions.

[@snuddisnaer]

12:10 you are adding a lot of epoxy in the hosel, that epoxy can not escape anywhere els than up the adapter and make it impossible to fit the shaft. But you propably fixed that afterwards and skipt that in the video.

[@EFGMC]

I found the best way is to use a lot of epoxy and once completely dry, drill out the excess from inside the adapter.

[@exitar1]

If the heads are stainless steel water would be a better lubricant

[@jakeski5]

I think All-Fit has a great product. But your wording and methods worry me. You keep saying boring out the hosel, but you are using a drill bit. Two fluted drill bits have a tendency to wonder. I would suggest a Reamer. The Vice President of Automation Devises happened to see this video. They work with the in Aerospace and Medical fields. He agrees that boring has nothing to do with drilling. Drilling is for making a hole. Reaming is to make a hole bigger. The reaming will maintain a round and straight hole. Taper tipped shafts???? There tapered tipped brass shims. The brass shims will make sure the shaft is concentric in the hosel. I would be curious as to the loft and lie of the iron before and after the All-Fit Adapter.

[@EFGMC]

Could you use a reamer in a drill press? The hole made needs to have parallel walls.

[@asdfjkl981]

you should not wear gloves with rotating equipment.

[@barrybeaver8178]

You can’t take the head out and keep the same measurements on the head