Fitting the engine and transmission in the 1940 Plymouth Chassis

Episode 153 Making both the engine and transmission mounts for the 1940 Plymouth is what this video is all about.
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Derek and the Camera Lady
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[@denniscornish7052]

I really appreciate your attention to detail, thank you for continuing to post your videos.

[@westernblood3732]

And the progress keeps trucking along; looking good. I dig those Flathead engine mounts as well, really makes for an easy installation without the hassle of cross referencing years and body styles for engine mounts for the customer. You have probably already figured it out, but in the 40-48 Plymouth/Dodge/Chrysler/DeSoto, there is enough room to put the radiator on the other side of the Horseshoe Radiator frame/mount to get a couple inches for longer engines. Just bolt to the front instead of the back, helps immensely when space is needed. It's a common thing when putting Small Block Chevrolets or Small Block Chryslers in these bodies even when keeping the stock suspension. Anyways, you don't need me to tell you anything, you are doing a great job. The content you are making is succinct, easy to watch and informative. Thanks again, I'm digging the build.

[@coldstreamrodshop]

I didn't know about putting the rad on the other side! But that makes perfect sense now. I don't think I will have to do that. Our plan is to use a temperature controlled electric fan at the moment. The pulley should clear the rad if I did my measurements correctly! Thanks for the feedback! I don't know everything so please comment if something comes to mind. Better to talk about it twice then miss it! Thanks!

[@rscruiser3533]

I was wondering too ---- as did 11290slk asked below ---- Not a -- removable trans crossmember? Could one get that tranny out with the body on and all complete? You would have to make a Special floor pan large enough to get it out from inside after removal of seat (s) and carpet ------ Hope owner lets you make a ---- Removable Center section or the entire crossmember ---- I think that would be so much easier for a removal ------ Thanks for Sharing your builds with us --- It's Good --------- Rodney

[@coldstreamrodshop]

Yes we're changing it. In an upcoming episode I'm putting a y block in a 32 roadster and put a removable cross member. I will upgrade to Plymouth too.

[@DouglasClaude]

I am on a very tight budget, so I reutilized the stock transmission mount. I cut out the transmission mount, cut out the center section leaving the two ends with the rubber mounts. I then took those two rubber mount ends and used them as the frame side for the new engine mount. I installed a V6 GMC TBI Sonoma engine and was able to cut up and reconstruct the GMC stock engine mounts to make the engine side for the new engine mount. The issue I ran into was keeping the headers and spark plugs out of the way of the stock '38 steering column. This has the engine sitting a bit higher than I'd like, and with the 3-5 degree engine angle it's not enough to keep the driveshaft from hitting the top plate of the X-frame. I don't know if I can tilt the engine more to clear? Can I go past a 5 degree tilt? Also, now seeing your engine installed you are quite a bit more forward from the x-frame than my engine. Are you going to be using an electric push fan on the radiator and you were able to bring your motor forward more? Mine has a big plastic fan on the front that eats up a lot of space.

[@coldstreamrodshop]

I don't think you should go beyond the 3-5 degrees for a few reasons. 1) the engine manufacturers typically set the engine centerline at that angle and the carburetor level so the fuel bowls are close to level. 2) whatever you set the engine centerline angle at the rear end must be angled the same. If you're only talking a degree it's no big deal Is there anyway to drop the engine lower? In our case we will use a pusher fan. There's still enough room for us to put an aftermarket flex fan on the pulley if we want. We will also use an aftermarket steering column and steering knuckles to get to the steering box.

[@DouglasClaude]

@@coldstreamrodshop I figured the angle was very important. I'd have to set it at too much of an angle to clear. I can either lose the fan and move it forward and might be able to drop it a few inches, or I'd have to do some crazy modifications to the steering column shaft. Might have to do some more planning. This is my first engine swap, learning a lot!

[@11290slk]

Why not a bolt-in transmission crossmember? Going to be difficult to get that long transmission (by itself) out from below with the plate welded in there once the body is on.

[@coldstreamrodshop]

I normally make a bolt in cross member. In an upcoming episode I put a y block and an AOD in a 32 roadster and I did a bolt in. My other rods do as well. I think I will convert this one as well even though I wasn't asked to.