Five Tips On How To Get The Best Image Quality from Micro Four Thirds

[@g0fvt]

Thank you for the video, it has only been very recently that I have realised that I have been often stopping my lenses down too far. Leaving me the impression that some of my lenses were a bit soft.

[@dongummphotography]

@g0fvt I had to overcome that, too!

Excellent bridge commentary from analogue and digital photography. Also, very good resume of the most important photo technics. Thanks Don

[@dongummphotography]

Thank you!

[@CheikoSairin]

Thanks for sharing the knowledge. A big LIKE for your video.

[@dongummphotography]

@@CheikoSairin Thank you!

[@andreasrochow5170]

Adapting old lenses from analogue film cameras to the mft camera is worth a try. The smaller sensor only captures the central part of the image circle, while the more problematic peripheral zone (blurring, vignette) is not effective. The problem is that the light from too large an image circle also gets into the camera and, in the worst case, can reduce the image contrast. I have achieved very good results with a Pentax 25 mm f2.8 and a Pentax 50 mm f2.8, even wide open!

[@RonaldBrown59]

Great video, thanks for sharing.

[@MrDunk66]

Don’t you love the word “malleted” , and so appropriate 😀 Love your work 🙏🙏🙏

[@monkeysnark7043]

A monopod comes in handy, when a tripod is too bulky to carry. Also, you can get “feet” for the monopod, to steady the camera that helps, even with the IBIS. Some good explanation on the lenses. Oh, the 2-5 second shutter rule helps when using the tripod, to minimize camera/tripod shake

[@johngross5224]

This was great! I'd say there's a little caveat with iso speed. Some of the newer micro four thirds cameras, specially if they're made for hybrid shooting have higher native iso. Shooting under native can have negative effects; just like shooting over. So it might be a good idea to look into your camera model just to make sure you're set. My Panasonic gx8 does great at 100 but the Panasonic g9ii has a native iso of 500 for example. Thank you so much!

[@dongummphotography]

@johngross5224 good to know, thank you!

[@donsoley746]

Always great input!

[@dongummphotography]

@@donsoley746 thank you!

[@ericlundquist3466]

80mp hi-res focus stacking works, lol. Combined 6 of those with the 45 f1.8 on a mushroom, and it came out clearer than my 90mm macro pro using focus bracketing while pixel peeping it.

[@JoshuaFernandez11]

Great tips thanks!

[@dongummphotography]

@JoshuaFernandez11 Thank you for watching and commenting!

[@dominiclogue5924]

Very good. Thank you.

[@braddyboy82]

Great video -- thank you, very informative. Subscribed!

[@dongummphotography]

@@braddyboy82 Thank you!

[@steveworthington930]

Hi Don, I find the Oly 12 to 40mm, F2.8 probably the best M4/3 zoom lens ever made, sharp edge to edge right through the zoom range. The sharpest ever is the Oly 75mm F1.8, the sharpest of any system.

[@petermcginty3636]

Thanks Don, really important content. Much appreciated 🎉🎉🎉. BTW I have expanded my vintage lens portfolio to 4 prime lenses. I look forward to building my skills in manual focus and using vintage lenses. For the moment, I have noticed that my, relatively new, OM-1 (digital version) really optimises the image quality from the vintage Olympus lenses.

[@dongummphotography]

@petermcginty3636 I haven't explored vintage Olympus lenses yet, but I recently got a 50mm f1.8 and am looking for an f1.4 version to do some testing. Thanks for watching and commenting!

[@tobiasdavid3096]

I usually shoot at f2.0 with primes that are f1.8 or below, f4 with the 2.8 zooms and f5.6 with most kitlenses. My PL 100-400mm loses at 400 quite some sharpness, it‘s the only one I use with f8.0 .

[@andreasrochow5170]

The tried and tested rule of thumb that the best optical performance of a lens is achieved at the middle aperture also applies to digital cameras. The "sweet spot" of the lens can be found at or near this point. But this consideration must not be exaggerated, because otherwise you will be inhibited from photographing with the aperture maximally closed or wide open.

[@joeprete7424]

Nice video Don, Thank You!

[@dongummphotography]

@joeprete7424 Thank you for watching and commenting!

[@BrianLesliePerry]

Very informative Don...I've used 35mm and medium format film cameras since the late sixties. plus making my own dark room. However, l never realised there were so many differences...I'm a late comer to micro 4/3 digital photography so need all the info l can get. The tripod thing l get, more so now that age has crept up on me, hand hold shutter speeds are a bit higher now than forty years ago. The technology is a new learning curve. so thanks for the invaluable info....By the way my E-P5 has arrived. What a beautiful made camera it is... reassuringly weighty, sold build quality....l will of course be a ''Kid with a new Toy'' for the next few weeks...Greetings from España.

[@dongummphotography]

@BrianLesliePerry Greetings from Oklahoma. I believe you will enjoy the EP5. I shoot both film and digital and am constantly learning about new photographic technology which I enjoy. Best wishes on your photography journey!

[@jonbarnard7186]

One would hope that lenses designed for macro work would be optimised to work best, not just for close focus, but also at small apertures. I have no proof of that, but a macro lens that didn't deliver at F8 or F11 would be less than ideal. I mean, who shoots a macro lens at F4 or 5.6?

[@dongummphotography]

@@jonbarnard7186 I guess some testing is in order...

[@shawnmcginnis2508]

Me because the 60mm M.Zuiko is sharp at f5.6 and because of the OM-1's quick focus bracketing I can stack my image and have great results.

[@jonbarnard7186]

@@shawnmcginnis2508 Have you tried stacking a series at F8?

[@argusc3310]

Hi Don. Interesting video, as usual. What about adapting film camera lenses on digital crop sensor cameras? Does that drive the optimal aperture lower , or would it still be closer to f/4? Also, I think lower ISO is better in general, but often going below base ISO (200 for a lot of the Olympus MFT cameras) will add noise. Cheers.

[@dongummphotography]

@argusc3310 I would imagine that using a smaller sensor would sift the diffraction limit a bit, but the greater focal length would move it back some. Probably, the total effect would be minimal

[@andreasrochow5170]

Adapting old lenses from analogue film cameras to the mft camera is worth a try. The smaller sensor only captures the central part of the image circle, while the more problematic peripheral zone (blurring, vignette) is not effective. The problem is that the light from too large an image circle also gets into the camera and, in the worst case, can reduce the image contrast. I have achieved very good results with a Pentax 25 mm f2.8 and a Pentax 50 mm f2.8, even wide open!

[@Bearhawk58]

begins at 1:30

[@andreasrochow5170]

Adapting old lenses from analogue film cameras to the mft camera is worth a try. The smaller sensor only captures the central part of the image circle, while the more problematic peripheral zone (blurring, vignette) is not effective. The problem is that the light from too large an image circle also gets into the camera and, in the worst case, can reduce the image contrast. I have achieved very good results with a Pentax 25 mm f2.8 and a Pentax 50 mm f2.8, even wide open!

[@dongummphotography]

@andreasrochow5170 I love adapting old lenses! I would think that because you are using a smaller part of the image, the effect of diffraction limiting would be increased. However, the typically longer focal length of the vintage lens may offset that to some degree. Truly, some critical testing is in order.