Fix a Chevy Volt with no heat when running on battery! We found a faulty circulation pump!

[@drlubell]

Super handy instruction set. I did it in less than 2 hours thanks to your instructions. Tip to save coolant in case you do not want to drain it... 1) loosen the hoses with pump in place, so you know you can remove them 2) remove pump completely, except the hoses are connected 3) remove each hose and quickly swap to the new pump, pinching the hose to limit leaks. If you decide to plug them, conveniently the hoses are exactly the same size as the factory lug nuts on my Volt.

[@drlubell]

@@golfish8589 Yes. Same symptoms, but you can have more than one cause. In our Volt, the heat failed only sometimes, and then failed more often. The electric heater uses the same coolant and heater core in the cabin as the standard engine heater. The computer decides if the flow should go through the engine to get heat or through the electric heater. There is an electric pump and a y-valve. If either goes bad, the electric heater will sense that it is in hot water, and stop taking power. At the same time, the coolant is not flowing to the cabin heater core, so you are still cold. You can run the heat and feel the hoses and see where the hot water is. I believe a bad valve will show the same symptoms as the bad pump. In most cases I have read, the problem is not the electric heater element itself. It is a tricky problem to track down, but the pump is a cheap and easy, so a good place to start. I was lucky that was the only problem.

[@markrandall1456]

The volt was making no heat. 1D10cracy could not be beat. New part for the Volt. Goes on with two bolts. He now it is heating so sweet! Nice job. Thanks for the fun. :-)

[@chadkinney1103]

This video was fantastic. Saved me $500+ in labor! The only part I needed besides the pump was a bunch of plastic clips I broke trying to remove them. Thank you for posting this video! Good to have electric heat again.

[@raycosman824]

Had mine repaired 2 years ago and it is doing it again! Have had a service high voltage charge and charged $1700.00, had extended warranty is probably why they charged so much.

[@DrivenCarReviews]

Thanks!

[@jamesbentz7883]

Very helpful. I really appreciated you taking the time to video this diagnosis and repair. I have a 2015 Volt, just now getting 114k miles on it, and aside from frequent CV joint replacment, this is the first item that has needed repair. Saved me $600 labor quote from Chevrolet. I did have a very difficult time getting the cover for the electircal plug removed, and as well, the plug did not want to come off, and yes, I did pull back the white locking clip. Almost broke it I think prying on it. Speaking of the frequent CV joint replacement, has anyone else had this experience. I had to replace them at 45k miles under warranty and again at 90k. But they were clicking again already at 105k I suggested to the dealer that the last CV joints they put in could be considered defective only lasting 15k miles, but the dealer said no luck, and I'd have to come out of pocket for the repair, since my 100k drive train warranty had expired. I have just been going easy on acceleration around corners and getting the joints to last as long as possible.

[@danielbogin]

I’ve also had an issue with clicking. Every time I cut the wheel all the way to the left to make the hardest the left possible I hear the clicking.

[@Maidoumurnot]

There are TWO clicking issues. 1. Sounds like a CV axle-it is not, it is a washer and torque process needed. Link below. 2. Mine has 189k just replaced driver side cv axle first time.

[@halomez]

This is the exact problem I'm having with my 2014 Volt right now. Thanks!

[@MrAnim8orVideos]

Great video. We fixed it less than 2 hours today thanks to you...I wish I found this video years ago.

[@miltonsaucedo2223]

Awesome thanks! I was checking every winter for someone with a fix on KZbin because my volt has always had this problem since I bought it 3 years ago..

[@miltonsaucedo2223]

@@golfish8589 yep pretty much.. i had to pop the trunk every morning to force the motor to kick on so that the heater would run… and yep. it was the pump. i changed it out and now the heater works , when the car is running on the battery… *although i have noticed that when its REALLY cold in the morning (below 30), its like the coolant is just too cold or something, and the heater wont get hot when running in electric mode.

[@miltonsaucedo2223]

@@golfish8589 and yes, no heat on electric mode.. i remember it did work on an off chance, maybe 10% of the time.. but mostly, it would not work… it probably did work that 10% of the time, because it being the pump which was the problem, the faulty pump would probably work on off chances… just figured that out with my washer machine actually… i kept getting a “long drain code” i assumed my drain pump was ok because it would “work sometimes”, “proving the pump worked”.. but no.. at least those pumps run using magnetic forces and yeah, it might work 1 out of 10 times… but its still faulty and is what needed to be replaced…but i digress

[@miltonsaucedo2223]

@@golfish8589 fersher! if your having this problem, yes for sure change the pump. high probability its you solution i would say. good luck 👌

[@996guy2]

My pump was vibrating so badly it sounded like the ICE was running. Same fix. Anyone thinking of doing this themselves, go for it. It’s as easy as he makes it look. Thx!!

[@raycosman824]

Had mine replaced first time but started vibrating months later. It was replaced and now there is no heat again, this will be #3 under 55000 miles. Cheep parts used by GM! Also a 2015.

[@raycosman824]

I had mine replaced, then had the vibration problem “fixed”, now it isn’t heating again. Kind of getting expensive.

[@xpaullywogx]

Thanks for the video! The two pointers I'd add: 1. I needed a deep socket (10mm I believe) to remove the two nuts holding the pump in place. 2. The hose clamps were sort of bedded into the hose and were easier to remove once the pump was detached from the bracket and I could get a better angle to give the clamps a firm wiggle back and forth, with a bit of oil on the hose. Enjoying my heated all electric commute once more!

[@craighughes3127]

Great video. This video covers everything I needed to know including correctly diagnosing the problem, ordering the right part and then getting it done efficiently. Nice to have heat in the winter here in Colorado. Thank you!

[@KTPurdy]

super helpful that you included a link to the actual part!

[@BikeInHudson]

My daughter's Volt is having similar issues so while researching the issue I found your video. This was VERY helpful. I watch a lot of automotive videos and I have to give you props - this was extremely clear. Well done. Now I am well informed to diagnose the problem (I suspect it is the same issue)

[@FEAdeES]

Update? Did it work?

[@BikeInHudson]

@@FEAdeES yes.

[@FEAdeES]

@@golfish8589 no heat at all

[@FEAdeES]

@@golfish8589 I changed the pump by the passenger front wheel, I cleaned the in-inline filter by the back of the engine and this did not work. I had to take to dealership to change a part behind the steering wheel. I know there is a youtube video of a guy who does it inside his garage but it is very labor intensive. $1K+ repair at the dealership

[@DrivenCarReviews]

I have a 2014 ELR that's not blowing warm air. Curious if yours made a loud humming sound (like the engine was running) before it failed completely. That's what happened to mine. Thanks for the great video.

[@1D10CRACY]

It did make an audible hum before failing.

[@DrivenCarReviews]

@@1D10CRACY Much appreciated. Keep up the great work.

[@aldanuch3668]

Did you make repair yourself?

[@Maidoumurnot]

This a great video. One question: how did you air bleed the cooling system?

[@Spunky-iq8jm]

Is this the same troubleshooting for a 2018 Volt?

[@ivantuma7969]

Literally saved me $830. Dealers in my area now charging $210/hr service rate and wanted $400 for the pump and $650 labor. I found a new OEM pump 13597901 (I believe that's the latest updated one) for $220 including shipping. I wanted to say a couple of notes probably mirrored down below: - Buy a set of Silicone plugs big enough to plug the hoses AND the old pump while you're removing them to avoid as much coolant loss as possible ($12 at Harbour Freight - will be more next year) - When undoing the hoses, it's easier if the pump is still mounted and tightened in the bracket (this can be a challenge when putting them back, but you'll need the leverage of the bracket. - When you get the pump, the bracket may not be lined up exactly with the way the pump fits in your car (I believe that pump is compatible Gen 1 and 2 Volts/ELRs AND the Bolt) - each have a slightly different orientation. Once you have the old one out, carefully rotate the new bracket to match the old one (adding a bit of antifreeze to the rubber bushing and bracket will make them slide easier. - That connector in the back - after you unlock with the grey/white tab, make sure you pry it off at the BASE, not at the top of the connector - otherwise you'll just pull off the wire-guide - If you have some coolant loss, be sure to replace it in the main reservoir with Dex-Cool or compatible antifreeze (I had to buy a gallon of the stuff since I couldn't capture all the old coolant). Lost about 1/2 a quart while replacing it. Thanks again - and yea, my knuckle is bleeding a bit because I had limited tools - but totally worth it. I did this in under two hours. Runs nice and quite now.

[@davidgreen5728]

fantastic video. I have the exact same model, year, and color volt with the exact same problem with the heater. I just bought the same part that you referenced. It's now $205

[@1D10CRACY]

My favorite color for the Volt! It's a pretty easy change. Oddly I've read where people have been able to get the dealer to replace it under the Voltec warranty. The dealership I took it to said it was not covered under the warranty.

[@hoganapex11]

Great video as my daughter's 2015 just started the 'no heat' issue. $180 is cheap compared to taking it to the dealership @$100++ a hour for labor. Thanks.

[@cristianpaulmartinez52]

Thank you. Chevy service charged me $200 to diagnose it and another $900 to replace the pump. Duck that ima try to fix it myself. Thank you 🙏

[@cristianpaulmartinez52]

😑 finally got around to it, still no heat, u talked about a valve if the pump is running but still no defroster or heat working. What kind of valve is it called?

[@gedionsamuel2256]

I really wonder if this is the same method for Gen2

[@markstanalajczo3677]

A great guide for this repair! I’d add that some of the small screws might snap off (4 actually did) due to corrosion. A trip the the hardware store was the only glitch to this time wise. Thanks!

[@billtrondsen]

Fixed my heat issue. Thanks for posting!

[@sheven18]

How did you get that kilowatt meter on the dash

[@danielpazogiraldez4836]

Hola para llenar el circuito de refrigerante, como lo hizo. Serviría con recircular el refrigerante para que no queden burbujas de aire?

[@pjkPA]

Had same heat problem ... just replaced this pump and it worked. Good video ... thanks!

[@pjkPA]

@@golfish8589Well … I should revise this post … I found that the pump did not fix the problem . So… I took it to a Chevy dealer who said could not find anything wrong … but after that the problem never came back? It’s still fine … it might have been just a connection that needed taken apart and put back?

[@pjkPA]

Yes… would go down to .5kw… which means heater is not working…try turning temp up and wait a minute or so… heater will jump kw to 2-7kw

[@lemmeink.studio]

I’ve Chevy volt 2014. I’ve no heat in both modes (ev and gas) used to have some heat on gas mode before. I’ve checked the pump and it seems like doesn’t work. Is there anything else should I check besides the pump that underneath on passenger side? Thanks for the video!

[@nextgen3277]

Great instructions - thank you! Other cause for no heat while running electric is a bad thermostat, I understand. Is there a good way to rule out one over the other (t-stat vs. pump)?

[@traceelliot1360]

Great video,but I don't understand why you mentioned stuck valve but did not give any advice on how to UNSTUCK the valve and where the vave is located so one can repair it.

[@aldanuch3668]

Do I follow same guidelines for ELR...purchased pump for $180...

[@kamiloslizlo6377]

Hey, great video. Is that pump shared between interior heating and battery heating? I have a problem with battery heating, it doesnt seem to get warmer (get up to 13-15C degrees) and because of that car keeps running on gas generator. Even when its running on the gas generator, it gets warm inside but the battery remains cold, and only when it gets up to 18~ degrees it starts using the battery. On city trips it generally means it never gets that temp, only when I have a longer road trip it worms up and switches to the battery. When it gets warm outside the car functions without problems.

[@ZackAmen]

Trying to find any guides on a gen 2 volt. Heater only works once engine runs for a while. Do you know if the pump is in between the motor and radiator in the gen 2s?

[@MrRsalaza5]

Hi Zack. I have a Gen 2 with no heat in EV. Have you had any success yet with this issue?

[@gedionsamuel2256]

Any answers regarding the Gen2?

[@dariunas]

Very good video, thanks! Quick and simple diagnosis too... Anyone knows if this is covered under the 8yr HV warranty?

[@dsmpartoutllc8096]

My heat not working electric or gas motor at all could it be this pump ?

[@1D10CRACY]

If it's not working on gas, it may be a valve. I've also read about programming issues on the early ones.

[@ArchivePete]

Thanks for this, very helpful. Quick question, when you did flush your coolant, how did you bleed the air from the system? Cheers Pete

[@sirishakankanala5936]

Need Help. I got two error codes P0CE7 : Hybrid/EV battery Pack coolant control valve position sensor circuit High P0CE0 : Hybrid/EV Battery Pack Coolant Control Valve A Performance/Stuck Off Any idea what needs to be done. I thought of changing 'Battery Coolant Control Valve' , but did not find any videos or DIY stuff any where . And also not able to find the correct part number. Any help is much appreciated

[@Maidoumurnot]

HELLO? This a great video. One question: how did you air bleed the cooling system?

[@1D10CRACY]

I didn't. ;) I figured because I plugged the lines and didn't have to add any fluid to it, it would be ok. The gamble was the little bit of air in the new pump would work itself out. Probably not the best option, but it worked for me. The correct procedure would have been to pull a vacuum on the system.

[@davidgee4260]

If the pump does not pump how does it work with the gas motor only. Is there a separate pump for gas op?

[@1D10CRACY]

The water pump on the gas engine moves the coolant when in ICE mode.

[@alifakoorian5036]

Hi there, Could the faulty pump result no heat on gas as well? My 2016 volt blows cold air no matter on gas or battery. Thanks

[@1D10CRACY]

Normally no heat on gas and electric is a faulty valve.

[@Lavabo-Quebec]

Where is the flow valve if its the broken part?

[@davidgee4260]

Where is the valve?

[@Lavabo-Quebec]

@@golfish8589 i have this exact issue, i did change my pump, but still have the problem, so now i think its the 3 way valve, near the intake on the back of the engine. Im too lazy to do the job and i use the ICE if i want heat

[@kelvish111]

What's the process to refill the coolant? Is a vacuum required or can you just pour it into the reservoir?

[@1D10CRACY]

I believe you are suppose to put it under a vacuum if filling from empty.

[@kelvish111]

I ended up doing the replacement pump myself and then paying for a coolant flush immediately afterwards

[@joellandsverk3261]

How did you bleed the system once you opened it in this way?

[@1D10CRACY]

I didn't. But if you are concerned, you need to put a vacuum on that loop.

[@jonathanreichel6735]

What di'd you use to plug the coolant lines? Kind of hard to see.

[@1D10CRACY]

A cut off glove finger and some soft foam I found in the trash can. :D

[@ScoutCrafter]

Great fix!!!!!

[@panepinto1959]

Great video! I have error P00B7 and no coolant leaks in my 2012 Chevy Volt. I just replaced the thermostat, but it turns out that was not the cause of the problem. I do not get heat even in Gas Engine mode, so I do not suspect the heater pump your video shows. All I can guess is the Water Pump is not generating enough flow... the vehicle overheats when in Gas Engine Mode. I cannot imagine that the Heater Control Valve you showed in your video would cause an overheat engine condition if it is blocked, could it? Can you think of anything else that might cause the engine to overheat and no hot air coming into the cabin?

[@traceelliot1360]

You need a HVAC module reprogram. 435 dollars at dealership.

[@doransignal]

How do you get to the current screen?

[@halomez]

The control knob on the dash left of the steering wheel

[@JacuzziSurfer]

You’re the man! Thanks. I got this exact issue

[@MPDano]

I replaced mine as well, but my 2011 doesn't have the kw gauge to monitor. I still don't have heat on electric, only on ice, and I can even hear and feel the pump working. Did you run some sort of GDS or SPS app afterwards?

[@MPDano]

@@golfish8589 heater works only on ice. The 2011 doesn't have the kw display as stated. Is it hard to get to that filter mentioned? Is that filter in a different heater system than the ice heater?

[@MPDano]

@Golfish ugh, sorry. Too early for me. I do have heater on ice, just not on electric.

[@jeffcroft2169]

My heating element must be bad......when I turn my heat on it doesn't draw any power and stays at 0.5

[@jaredbrandt9602]

Just competed this heater pump replacement. Found a lot of this info helpful, some just wrong. I work on cars plenty, and I wrestled with this stupid pump. Here we go: 1. No reason to disconnect your 12V battery. 2. This is not a 30 min job; nor is it nearly as easy as this fella makes it out to be. He really skips past all the technical parts here. Took me 3 hours, plus one hour to go buy the silly "EV" type GM coolant. Probably not important. 3. Don't be fooled as I was with the lower pump mounting bolt...you don't need a 10mm wrench. Just pull the strange wire harness off the end of the bolt and use a socket. 4. Cursing at the hoses helps, along with a big wrench and a screwdriver to pry the hose off. Mine were really frozen on, but it was cold in my garage. Rubber is softer when it's warmer. 5. Cursing at the electric connector on the back of the pump helps also...in the end mine sheared off the bump on the old pump that holds it on, but be careful not to break the connector. They don't like to come off. Connector should be the last thing to come off the pump, so you can have it in your hands while you wrestle with it. 6. Pump is Buhler (German?) brand, only place to order it from ships from China, and shows a made in Mexico sticker. Looks like a $30 pump but sells for $170, and is hard to find. 7. After the front half of the fender guard is unbolted, it can be wrapped around the back side of the brake rotor and out of the way. No need to take the back half off. The halves will not separate easily it seems. 8. Replacing the pump did fix my heat problem, symptoms well shown in the beginning of this video. Additional notes: Note 1. After replacement, dash shows heater "ON" now as it should, but still likes to toggle the A/C "ON" and "OFF" when it's really cold out and heater set to high. Don't know why the A/C pump loves to toggle on and off on this car in the cold like this. This seems to be separate from the heater pump issue. Some diagnose the heater pump issue by this behavior. Note 2. So...my car had about 1/4 cup of coolant in this coolant system. My wife had been driving the car, and the heater stopped working from Nov - late Jan this year. This appears to be in the same loop as engine coolant. So, basically she's been driving with near zero engine coolant. The old pump was not turning on prior to replacement. No warning lights or over temp alarms have ever been observed relating to engine coolant or engine temp. After replacing the pump no leaks are observed. No strange smoke from exhaust, so I doubt the coolant is getting burned. My wife drove on the IC a lot in the last 3 months. Could it run fine in cold temps with near zero coolant? Could there be no coolant without a major leak? Prob not...but so far seems to be the way it is. Hopefully I don't have bigger problems, but I am scratching my head how the engine coolant was practically gone and the only issues we had was no heat in the cabin. Running the engine coolant dry likely destroyed the cabin heat pump. That's the only part of this that makes sense. Anyway, hope this helps.

[@1D10CRACY]

Thanks for the extra tips! I will add that disconnecting the battery is always recommended, sure it's not necessary, but highly suggested. As for time, it's obviously going to depend on skill and experience. I do think the average back yard mechanic should be able to do it in about half an hour or so.

[@jaredbrandt9602]

The average backyard mechanic couldn't gather all the tools and get the tire off and back on in 30min.

[@jaredbrandt9602]

...makes me wonder if you really even did this job or not?

[@1D10CRACY]

"...makes me wonder if you really even did this job or not?" To be fair, I'm kind of wondering the same thing about you! It really isn't a difficult job! :D I was about 2 hours, mainly because of the video camera. In the video I said an experienced mechanic could do it in 30 to 45 minutes whereas a less experienced back yard mechanic could probably do it in 1 to 2 hours. I still feel this is pretty reasonable, but if I'm wrong and it takes longer for some people, I don't think it's a deal breaker for the average DIYer. I'm very glad you were able to complete the job!

[@claudioc.7698]

Now I have a lot of vibration, do I need to change it?

[@1D10CRACY]

Where is the vibration coming from?

[@claudioc.7698]

@@1D10CRACY to the pump

[@claudioc.7698]

When you turn on the air, the pump is always working? I was reviewing it and I realized that the vibration is very strong because of the plastic that it covers! but I don't know if constant vibration is normal !!

[@1D10CRACY]

Some vibration is normal. Mine got bad enough I could feel it in the steering wheel, then it stopped all together.

[@claudioc.7698]

In my case the sound is felt but it is not very strong, but I checked the side of the tire and the vibration of the pump with the plastic covering it feels strong. there the intensity of the noise decreases. but the pump works all the time ?? I remember that in summer when using the cold air the pump stopped working and after a few minutes it was heard again, but now with hot air it is working all the time !!

[@jaybee3165]

one more thing to watch out for with the volt: if the 12v battery gets low? the car will throw a BUNCH of fault codes. before you spend ANY money on fixing this car- make SURE the 12v battery is in excellent health.

[@getitdone6694]

Great video, my 2014 Volt gave codes P15C5 and P26A5. Looking it up it says 22987494 is the valve by the firewall. The one in your video I think it is the pump. Correct me if I am wrong and thanks for the video.

[@getitdone6694]

Yeah just tested the pump and it vibrates also getting heat in EV so valve it is

[@getitdone6694]

As I said în one of my replies it was the valve.

[@danwat1234]

Don't know why you need to disconnect the lead acid unless trying to avoid a trouble code. 12v plug should be friendly enough if there is power flowing when you disconnect it but car should be off so that pump shouldn't be running. The impeller on my pump that is directly underneath the radiator cage busted so going to swap that 1. Found some pumps used on eBay for cheap

[@danwat1234]

@@golfish8589 no mine just has to do with battery cooling loop. Your symptoms seems to be no coolant flow because heaters on for short time then drops back down to 0.5 kilowatt witches car idle could be the other pump or valve

[@mkimemia3047]

My 2011 Chevy volt gives codes P1AF0, P1AF2 and P1E22 and from what I understand the codes are generated due hybrid battery heater being defective. However, in my case when I put the heater on when the vehicle is running on hybrid battery the heat comes on. I am puzzled as whyy this codes are being generated and what be could be the problem. Anybody who might have an idea? Thanks

[@ColoradoDreamin]

Thank you for the video! Well done

[@naps3386]

So many issues with cooling systems could be avoided if people actually maintained their vehicles according to the manufacturers recommendation. Hardly anyone flushes their coolant systems out, flushes brakes systems out. It's only when something goes wrong (sticking thermostat, leaking heater core, leaking radiator, or worse...blown head gasket) that the coolant gets changed. I believe the coolant PH changes over time and starts attacking the internals of engines and associated components. I believe the organic Dexcool is especially prone to turning acidic and wreaking havoc on internals.

[@1D10CRACY]

Routine maintenance is important! I'm a stickler on them myself and as you can see still run into an occasional issue. :D

[@fisquid]

Out of curiosity... is there a story behind that Opel Ampera steering wheel in your Volt?

[@1D10CRACY]

Yup, I wanted a heated steering wheel and the Opal fits the Volts perfectly. :D

[@427spicey]

@@1D10CRACY Brilliant, I want heated steering wheel as well, was it complex to swap it out? I just bought my 2012 yesterday (1/12/2022) knowing it had the "no heat on electric motor" issue. Thank you for this video!

[@Sientz]

Great Video showing all the steps clearly! Thanks man.

[@Sientz]

@@golfish8589 the heater basically did not work, it would blow cold air, I replaced that circulation pump like in the video and it's been good every since. I don't really remember much about the kW spiking etc

[@billbly1691]

Great video thank you

[@noekumagay7114]

The 2017 is different system to service this pump

[@1D10CRACY]

2017 would be a Gen 2 Volt. This video was on a 2015, Gen 1.

[@gregfraser6092]

I am wondering if you got curious and examined the original pump to see how/why it failed? I guess by modern standards, a

[@1D10CRACY]

I did take it apart and what I had found out was the propeller was glued to a magnet. Both parts are submerged in coolant and over time the glue deteriorated and came loose from the magnet. It probably could have been glued back together but I chose to just replace it.

[@jaybee3165]

3 pumps in 2 years. GM: I hope you will STOP trying to make EV's OR hybrids- you suck at it. I'm a plumber- and I could source a better pump than this that would last the life of your cars.

[@jaybee3165]

best advice? buy a tesla. they know how to build modern tech. GM knows how to make great internal combustion engines & drive trains for them- and that is ALL they know how to do. I commend them on the volt's engine, electric drive & drive train- but their electronic hardware? sketchy. ESPECIALLY this lousy pump. their keyfob? LOUSY. learn from tesla- and teach that doggie how to run off a phone app, or build a fob that's not a POS. I know you outsource that stuff... maybe time to adopt tesla's motto & STOP OUTSOURCING!

[@1D10CRACY]

I'm actually amazed at how reliable the Volt was considering the technology GM crammed into a first gen car. Despite this pump and a few other minor issues, the car is extremely reliable considering. The first gen Teslas were plagued with issues that were far worse. And like Tesla, GM has learned from their mistakes. I have a Bolt now that is starting to earn its high mileage badge, zero issues. As far as this pump, I agree, what a crap design and whoever GM is using to produce the part needs to find another hobby.

[@billyskittles1036]

The Volt is probably the worst car I have ever owned. I hate this thing.

[@1D10CRACY]

Gen1 or Gen2? I really liked mine, they are also stupid easy to work on. Other than a few minor issues like this one, mine was super reliable. I traded it in for a Bolt before it hit 200k miles, I wish I had kept it.