Fix / overhaul Ulka water pump model E type 5.

English translation below.
In deze video wordt een Ulka model E type 5 waterpomp gereviseerd. Hierbij worden de slijtage onderdelen vervangen welke dynamisch belast worden. Het betreft de kunststof klep (“het kleine witte balletje”), de rubber klep (paddenstoelvormig) en de O-ring die de zuiger afsluit. De Ulka model E type 5 waterpomp wordt in diverse koffiezetapparaten gebruikt. Zoals bijvoorbeeld in sommige Nespresso, Dolce Gusto, espresso- en volautomatische bonenmachines. Wanneer de pomp nog wel werkt (en dus nog een brommend geluid maakt) maar er geen (of weinig) water meer wordt gepompt, waardoor geen/te weinig druk wordt opgebouwd, zijn (een van) de onderdelen van de pomp die in deze video worden vervangen waarschijnlijk versleten. Dus met deze onderdelen kunt u met deze instructie zelf uw pomp repareren. De revisie van een Ulka model E type 4 waterpomp is vergelijkbaar: de rubber klep is hetzelfde, er zit geen kunststof balletje in en de O-ring is een andere maat maar de demontage en montage gaan helzelfde.
In this video an Ulka model E type 5 water pump is being overhauled. The wear parts that are subject to dynamic loading are replaced. This concerns the plastic valve ("the small white ball"), the rubber valve (mushroom-shaped) and the O-ring that seals the piston. The Ulka model E type 5 water pump is used in various coffee machines. Such as in some Nespresso, Dolce Gusto , espresso and fully automatic bean-to-cup machines. If the pump still works (and therefore still makes a humming sound) but no (or little) water is pumped anymore, resulting in no/too little pressure being built up, (one of) the parts of the pump that is replaced in this video is probably worn out. So with these parts you can repair your pump yourself with these instructions. The overhaul of an Ulka model E type 4 water pump is similar: the rubber valve is the same, there is no plastic ball in it and the O-ring is a different size, but the disassembly and assembly are exactly the same.
Deze instructie kunt u onder andere gebruiken voor de revisie van de volgende Ulka modellen
You can use this instruction for the revision of the following Ulka models:
EP5 of EP4
EX5 of EX4
EP5GW of EP4GW
EX5GW of EX4GW
EAP5 of EAP4
EAX5 of EAX4
EFP5 of EFP4
EFX5 of EFX4
EP5FMSP of EP4FMSP
EP5FMGW/SP of EP4FMGW/SP
0:00 manufacturer, model & type pump / fabrikant model & type pomp
0:14 pump disassembly / demontage van de pomp
1:16 replace parts / onderdelen vervangen
3:10 pump assembly / montage van de pomp

[@thiagokock7185]

Amazing! Thanks from Brazil 🤜🤛

[@MarcSchiedam]

🙂

[@angiwutzii9366]

Moin Marc, welche Mühe Sie sich machen, klasse. 👍👍👍 Gruss aus Hamburg

[@MarcSchiedam]

👍

[@FerCombes]

Impecable... gracias..desde Argentina...la ciudad de Pigüé..

[@MarcSchiedam]

De nada, disfruté haciéndolo. Gracias por tu mensaje. 👍 Saludos cordiales desde Schiedam, Holanda. 🍻 Marc.

[@matthewspiteri482]

well done very easy to follow. I am currently fixing the same water pump installed in a steamer/vacuum IBER 2000 and has the same exact pump. From your vid, I noticed that my pump has some missing parts in it unfortunately.

[@MarcSchiedam]

Hi Matthew, Are you sure it's an Ulka type 5? And if so, what parts are you missing?

[@robertodiana9149]

Ok grazie Marc.

[@MarcSchiedam]

👍

[@aicardo2003]

gracias.

[@MarcSchiedam]

You're welcome. (de nada?)🙂

[@leojansen1130]

I had the same problem. No water. The plastic ball in my pump had a diameter of 3,1mm (16 years of wear). New one is much bigger. Why they do not make them in other material? But now my pump is working again.

[@MarcSchiedam]

Wow Leo 16 years is an incredibly long time. Was that with the original parts? Ulka expects a decline in performance after 12 to 18 months, so 16 years without maintenance is almost unbelievable. It proves once again that these pumps can last a very long time. Especially when you maintain them properly. I do have old pumps in machines that I maintain, but the O-ring is replaced every year and the valves every four years or sooner if necessary. I think the ball is made of this plastic because it meets the desired conditions. Namely that it is reasonably durable, that it is tough (it does not break and no shards break off), it is food safe because it is not porous and, most importantly, it is lightweight (40 milligrams). The ball "hits" the axle 50 times per second (in the USA 60 times per second). There is a pyrex glass ball offered on the internet, but it is more than twice as heavy and it is so hard that it will damage the piston shaft and the spring. So with a glass valve your pump will never last 16 years or come close to that age. So if it is necessary to replace the plastic ball every few years to ensure that your pump lasts that long, it is not such a bad design in my opinion. 😉 Cheers, Marc.

[@russomarcelo]

Ok, I think that's the problem I have. I'm going to tell you what happened. The coffee maker is a year and a half old and has hardly been used but I made the mistake of putting pure vinegar in it and leaving it for several hours. then the problems began. first releasing little steam. Finally the piston stopped moving and although the coil can be heard vibrating when it does not move, the piston does not draw water. Based on your video and others, I just disassembled the bomb and each of its parts as in your video and dried everything and put it back together by blowing through all the buildings (this was very difficult because some of them seemed covered). After assembling everything, the piston moved again and worked for about 15 seconds and water came out. It stopped and started again. Then it stopped again and you can again hear the coil vibrating but the piston not moving. Do you think that the white ball and the black rubber have been worn out by the vinegar and that is why the piston does not move because the necessary vacuum is not formed? In the explanation of your video written below you refer to it still making a humming sound. This is what I hear but clarifying that I do not hear the typical noise of the pump working with the piston moving.

[@MarcSchiedam]

The silicone grease is to get the rubber valve out of the spring more easily, not to lubricate the pump. It's always difficult to give advice from a distance and I don't know which machine it is, but I'll share my thoughts on this. Just a warning in front: I don't know you so don't know what you can and can't do so only do work for which you have the competence or don't do it or ask for help. Only work on the machine when unplugged and allow the machine to cool down before working on it. Everything you do is at your own risk. It is a well-known problem that after descaling, by flushing the entire machine, blockages occur. Most often in (or just after) the thermoblock or boiler (depending on the machine). Descaling releases pieces of limescale that cause the clogging. I would advise you to disconnect the pipes to and from the thermoblock (or boiler) and descale this part. I ALWAYS descale a thermoblock separately. By the way, I wouldn't do it with vinegar because it only works moderately and leaves a taste in your machine that is difficult to get out. I use citric acid or (sometimes prescribed by the manufacturer) lactic acid. These products work faster and do not leave any taste after rinsing with water a few times. Using vinegar is not wrong, it just doesn't work as well and doesn't taste good. Parts do not wear out due to vinegar. Assuming there is no over pressure valve in the machine, the following: when there is a blockage in the machine, and your pump is working properly, the pump will come to a halt because there is a huge pressure in the pipes and there can be no water flow. If the pump were not functioning properly, it would not be able to build up such high pressure and therefore continue pumping because the O-ring and/or valves are leaking. So the way I read your story, I first think of a blockage somewhere than worn parts of the pump. But it could be a stuck valve of the pump (the rubber mushroom-shaped valve). It would be very coincidental that this happens right after a decalcification, but it is possible and that problem gives the same characteristics. You can easily check this by detaching the hose at the outlet of the pump (or at the other end of the hose at entrance of the next element after the pump) and checking whether water comes out of it when you test the machine. Before testing take a picture of the wiring and disconnect the wires from the thermoblock (or boiler) if there is no water flowing through it. To be on the safe side, because a thermoblock does have a thermal protection, but without water it quickly gets very hot. A heating element in a boiler should never be heated when the boiler is not filled with water at all. I once helped someone on a forum to find a blockage in a Philips machine, maybe that will help you. You can find it here: www.home-barista.com/repairs/ulka-ep5-pump-replacement-t87226.html Some more comments about your post: -When a pump comes to a standstill, turn off the machine immediately to prevent damage to the pump. A pump quickly gets too hot. -Steam is probably created because there is stagnant water (no flow) in the thermoblock that will boil. -When you disassemble the pump, the pressure is off and most of the water is out of the system, so it can take up to 15 seconds for the system is filled up again, the maximum pressure is reached and therefore the pump comes to a stop. -With "humming sound" I mean the coil is working so the pump "wants" to work but is not building up pressure. If there is an electric problem, the pump is silent and is beyond repair. These are my thoughts on this with the information I got from your post. But again, it's hard to give advice from a distance, so I could be completely wrong. Figuring out where things are going wrong step by step is the best way to figure out what the problem is. Good luck with it. Cheers, Marc.

[@russomarcelo]

Hello Marc, I greatly appreciate and appreciate your comments. I tell you that I was finally able to repair the machine by changing the oring with a new one of the same size. Evidently the vinegar and the passage of 2 years of use caused the original oring to wear out as it seemed somewhat sticky to the touch, very different from the completely smooth and shiny new one. I understand that what happened was several things at the same time: using pure vinegar for several nights caused clogs in the boiler and degraded the oring. The white ball and black mushroom-shaped rubber retainer are in good condition. Once I was able to change the oring, I found that the pump revived, before it only vibrated but the piston did not move, I understand that with the new oring it had sufficient pressure again. But the boiler was clogged in the inlet and outlet ducts, as well as the valve/relay that allows water to pass through to generate pressure for the milk. I uncovered the inlet and outlet ducts, blew hard to unclog them. The water began to flow. Then I proceeded to descale, but this time, as many recommend in these parts, with the vinegar diluted by half with water. After several hours, everything returned almost to normal, let's say 90%. I still need to do a deep descaling with citric acid, which I will do in the next few days, but I already have coffee with milk again for breakfast. Thank you very much for your video, it was very useful for me to understand the problem of the worn oring!!@@MarcSchiedam

[@MarcSchiedam]

Hi Marcelo, Thank you very much for your response and sharing the results of your work. I appreciate that a lot. 👍 Problems are often a combination of different things. In the event of a (partial) blockage, the pump has to work harder, the water flow is slower, more lime enters the system, which causes more blockage, etc. The O-ring must have been stuck in your pump to make it stop. If the O-ring only leaks, the pump will continue to run because the water is "pumped" back and forth in the pump. So you see, sometimes you encounter surprising problems. By the way, I replace the O-ring of the pump on the machines I maintain every year during major cleaning and descaling. But good to hear that it turned out well for you. May you enjoy your coffee for a long time. Cheers, Marc.

[@tamasstanitz]

Hey Marc, I have the same pump that has a great reassure, but the issue with it is after some rest, lets say in the morning, when I switch on the water is not flowing for 2-3 sec, but after it starts and has a great pressure. If I restart the pump then works perfectly. Has this waiting only after some rest. Do you think replacing these o-rings and ball could solve this problem? Thanks

[@MarcSchiedam]

Hi Tamas, This sounds a lot like the mushroom-shaped rubber valve gets stuck every now and then. Then the pump makes noise and tries to pump but there is no water flow. This often starts after the machine has been turned off for a few hours and continues to happen more and more often until it remains stuck. You can then take the pump apart and loosen the valve, but this is usually a temporary solution and the problem will return. But if the pump remains completely silent, the problem may be electrical. It is of course difficult to diagnose the problem with 100% certainty from a distance, but I think, based on your story, that with an overhaul set (including the mushroom shaped valve) your pump will work again. But, of course, I can't guarantee it. Cheers, Marc.

[@WladImirZhel]

Hello . Unfortunately , in my case, the rubber gasket shows no wear, but there is no pressure! the solenoid is humming, water is passing through the boiler, all boiler outlets have been flushed by disassembling, the required pressure has not appeared... This is the new Gaggia Classic . Only 1.5 years old!!!

[@MarcSchiedam]

Hi Wladimir, It is very difficult to observe the wear of the O-ring. I would still try to see what happens when you replace the O-ring. You can try an O-ring with size 5x2mm (IDxCS) for this. This is slightly thicker than the original ring and should work well. If the piston does not move and remains stationary, there must be a blockage. This can be in the machine, but it can also be one of the valves of the pump. If you have already replaced the O-ring and the pump does not want to move, this may be because the rubber of the O-ring provides too much friction. A tiny bit of silicone grease will help to start the pump dry. Once the pump is filled with water, this problem will not occur. According to Ulka, the pump has a lifespan of 12 to 18 months (depending on use) before performance decreases. To ensure that the pump in the machines I maintain continues to function 100%, I replace the O-ring every year. Good luck with the repair. Cheers, Marc.

[@WladImirZhel]

@@MarcSchiedam Hi , Marc! The service - life is only 1.5 years... this is just terrible..., I thought 3-5 years... ) It requires food-grade silicone , and I have already ordered it. Thanks! Regards

[@MarcSchiedam]

@WladimirZhel I agree with you Wladimir. When Ulka reported an expected lifespan of 12 - 18 months, I was shocked too. Cheers, Marc.

[@icaroinformatica4745]

obrigado

[@MarcSchiedam]

🙂

[@vanngocao1131]

It wouldn’t last long after overhauling , just a few months. Better to replace the whole pump, that is cost-effective solution, from my experience

[@MarcSchiedam]

That is a persistent story, but complete nonsense. Because what do you think will go wrong in those "few months"? Of course, once a pump has suffered damage due to overload or overheating, you cannot repair it with an overhaul kit. But if the coil is in good condition, after an overhaul you will have a pump that is just as good as a new one. And it lasts just as long, if not longer. Ulka notes that a pump's performance will decrease after 12 to 18 months. And I have machines in maintenance with a pump that is more than 15 years old that work as if they were new (I test them for pressure). In those 15 years, parts worth €19.50 (sales price) have been replaced. If you maintain these pumps properly, they will last a very long time. So I don't know what exactly your "experience" is worth, but it certainly doesn't match mine. But hey, if you want to buy a new pump every few years, it is something that everyone can decide for themselves, but it is certainly not cost-effective. Moreover, before you replace the pump after a few years, it has probably not worked 100% for a while.

[@vanngocao1131]

@@MarcSchiedam sorry For not making it clear. Whether it’s cost-effective or not will depend on the price and quality of these parts. I purchased the overhaul kit for 4 usd and my ulka pump built up pressure again in just 2 months and then it failed. So I decided to replace with a new ulka pump for 10 usd and it has been working smoothly for 1 year and still in good condition. That is my experience and I take it as cost effective , hope it makes sense

[@MarcSchiedam]

That's what I thought. Your response " _It wouldn't last long after overhauling, just a few months._ " is not correct. I'm sorry that your project was not successful, but this could be for various reasons. With all due respect, it is impossible for you to say on that basis that overhauling a pump wouldn't last. My experience is based on more than 200 overhauled pumps. For my curiosity: Do you have a link to the overhaul kit you used? And which part of the pump "failed" after two months?

[@robertodiana9149]

Greetings. It is possible to make a video on how to replace a pump on the de Longhi EC 201CD.B coffee machine since there is no video of this type anywhere on the web. Thank you

[@MarcSchiedam]

Hi Roberto, I don't have such a machine in maintenance, so I can't make a video of it in the short term. I can probably get hold of the machine and make a video of it, but that will be long term. So that won't help you now. Cheers, Marc.

[@piotrkowalczyk2363]

Hello! Where were you buy this parts? In my country (Poland) i can only buy rubber o-ring and a plastic ball.

[@MarcSchiedam]

Hi piotr @piotrkowalcyk2363, Because I get this question often, I put the set on eBay: www.ebay.nl/itm/186133144130 If you want to order parts separately, you can send me an email and we will see if we can arrange something. My email address is marc.schiedamATgmailDOTcom (this is also mentioned in the details of my KZbin channel). Cheers, Marc.

[@russomarcelo]

What do you use on the brush to lubricate?

[@MarcSchiedam]

That's food grade silicone grease.

[@tamerelsaiid9035]

From where did you get the repair set ? Thank you.

[@MarcSchiedam]

Hello Tamer, I put the set together myself. To help people I put the set on eBay. www.ebay.nl/itm/186133144130 If you want the set and live outside Europe, please send me an email, the email address is in the information of this KZbin channel. I wish you a nice day. Cheers, Marc.

[@user-em3ct7cu1k]

Hola buenas donde concigo la reparacion

[@MarcSchiedam]

Hola Juan Carlos @user-em3ct7cu1k. En que país vives?

[@marciopires3850]

Bom dia , como posso comprar o kit de reparação da bomba? Muito obrigado pela partilha de conhecimentos

[@MarcSchiedam]

Olá Marcio, Eu não falo português, então isso é feito através do Google Translate, então peço desculpas se minha mensagem não estiver totalmente correta. Tudo o que você pede (também via eBay) é possível. Mas para discutir isso pode ser mais útil se você entrar em contato comigo por e-mail. Meu endereço de e-mail está incluído nas informações do meu canal no KZbin. Obrigado Atenciosamente, Marc.

[@marciopires3850]

@@MarcSchiedam obrigado pela resposta. Ja enviei mensagem pelo ebay.

[@tonobuc911]

¿Dónde puedo comprar el kit? soy de México

[@MarcSchiedam]

Hi, I can help you. Please contact me via email, my email address is in the information for this KZbin channel. Hola, puedo ayudarte. Por favor contácteme por correo electrónico, mi dirección de correo electrónico se encuentra en la información de este canal de KZbin.

[@djokicmetamora]

Silicone grease on the brush?

[@MarcSchiedam]

Yes, this makes it easier to remove the rubber from the spring.

[@user-ch8hh2ym6n]

а где это купить?

[@MarcSchiedam]

Здравствуйте Сергей Назаров! Я продаю наборы в Европе через eBay, но, к сожалению, не знаю адреса в России. Извини.

[@user-ch8hh2ym6n]

Спасибо понял .