Fix Your Ford - Injection Pump Pull and Repair

When it sits, it shits! The metering plunger stuck on my Roosa-Master injection pump on the Ford 881D. Here is how to remove, cluelessly disassemble and poke at, and re-install an injection pump!

[@palcalder]

I have a JD450-CC that had the same problem. Hadn't been cranked in two years and I couldn't get diesel to the injectors. I had planned on taking the pump to a shop to get it overhauled. Your video saved me a lot of trouble and money. Thanks a lot.

[@joeholland428]

Thanks for taking time to make and post a video on this.

[@jamesmcqueen6038]

I'm glad you have videos because when i have a problem I'm looking for your videos to help me solve it. You have a lot of common sense. You should run for congress and defeat one of those crazy democrats . I truly believe you would win. God Bless You my friend.

[@bmxericjamessamelson6636]

Grate video explaining on how the pump works and freeing up the metering valve. I think I just figured out why my 6.9idi quit running, I'm hopeful

[@danbecker9391]

I have a Ford 4500 backhoe. After letting it stand too long, the CAV pump stopped working. I removed the fuel line and one of the injector connections and sprayed WD-40 into them while someone turned over the engine. It took a couple of days....periodically repeating the process but it's a lot easier than removing the pump. All of a sudden it started working again. Works great now!

[@aaronevans8349]

First thing I noticed was no fuel inside the injection pump.

[@joeholland428]

Looking through your videos I ended up subscribing to you. you have alot of videos that interest me.

[@hardinelders8457]

Thanks a bunch for posting. A friend just gave me an 801 that hasn't been started in a long time and this video gave me just what I needed. AAA+++

[@downrange2107]

I know it's about 2 years later but those j hooks keep the throttle shafts together just be careful when you loosen the governor spring for which the weights on the timing wheel some times slip out of there slots then you will have to tear the pump down unless you get lucky and some times you can have a hard start from the blades inside or delivery valve in the head or wear from the head depending on the injection pump

[@eastpointer1304]

had the same problem with a ford 3600 cav pump. using a can of starting fluid start and try 2 keep it running with a few short hits of starting fluid it will speed up and slow down after a couple of tries it took off on fuel.saved removing and dissassembly.

[@themadmailler]

+Kelly Cheverie I actually tried this in desperation, to no avail.

[@whoreallycares8129]

I have a 1984 Mitsubishi Mighty Max turbo diesel that I sometimes have problems with after it has set for a while. What I found was air gets into the fuel system and at the filter there's a primer pump that I sometimes have to use to get it to start. It acts like it's not getting fuel and that's what it is. If you didn't try this the first time maybe keep it in mind and just verify your fuel system is purged of air before removing the pump. Just a thought. Good luck - that thing sure looks like I'd have some fun taking it for a ride.

[@MrHevyshevy]

I learned some stuff. Thanks.

[@dougcrawford2587]

A while back I met up with a guy that had a Dodge Cummins pickup ... One thing he taught me about diesel engines was that due low sulfur in the fuel lacks lubrication... A hint he taught me was to add two quarts of Dextron II ATF (not type F) in with his fuel .. This added the lubrication needed for the injection pump and injectors ... I've been adding this to my fuel ever since.... Not only does the fuel injection pump go from 150 miles before repair it goes now up to 300 miles before an overhaul or replacement ... Might be something you may want to try..

[@claytonharper2323]

300 miles? As in 300,000?

[@MYsequinedsky]

nice to see how many subscribers your video helped :)

[@jeffhovel7899]

Great Job thanks for the video.

[@MrBugsier5]

you can check for runaway problems by putting the stop on, and thry when bleeding *no feul, no runaway.

[@swamisMotelBand1]

thank you ..these have been helpful...best of luck

[@steelguitarsohio]

Nice video tutorial. Question - How do you remove the injectors on this model? I have a Ford 4000 Industrial 4 cyl. and it is quite similar.

[@themadmailler]

remove the two bolts and pry it out. pry on both sides to pull it evenly.

[@macyfish7940]

Thank you

[@bshargett]

Could you show the link where you got the diagram for the pump thanks

[@martinw9425]

good job ...done right.

[@tommcdonald1746]

Great video. I have a 1958 Ford 861 and diesel fuel is leaking into the crankcase and I have read several time the injector pump seals has been known to go bad and leak fuel in the crankcase. I think a lot people call them umbrella seals because of their shape. I was hoping I would see you changing those seals in your video. Anyway, do you have any information for a DIY on how to change these seals. I've searched Google and KZbin and haven't found anything. Also, what was the block of wood for? Thanks. Tom

[@themadmailler]

you can pull the driveshaft out of the pump to replace those seals. Apparently it can be a trick to get the shaft and new seals back in due to the shape of the seal. there is a special tool, but ive heard that a zip tie works well to compress the lip.

[@thegoatmudtruck2646]

Have a 801 power master diesel, same pump, when starting, the engine revs at high rpm's and doesn't come back down, until it reaches too high rpm's then it's fine, afraid gonna blow the engine. Any help will be appreciated

[@themadmailler]

sounds like the metering valve is sticky.

[@paulbains9152]

Theres 2 snap ring clips on your throttle shaft , with a long and short side . On the one over the left side , the long side arm isnt doing anything , it was probably put in , because they didnt have a 2 short sided clip , thats ok . If you pull that clip off , you can then slide your throttle shaft out to the right . But first you need to pop that right side pin off as well . This is the interesting part , its in backwards .The long end of that pin should be on top , which it is , but facing in the other direction . The flat cut in the shaft , drives that pin . It pushes on the governor linkage , and causes shut down when the linkage is all the way off . the govenor linkage also rotates the fuel delivery valve . If it dosent turn , you dont get fuel .

[@HeritageExplorer]

I note that you used WD40 on the metering valve and it seemed to sort the problem for you. I have a similar problem on a Delphi pump where I think the metering valve may be sticking as the tractors response to the throttle is sometimes very slow. It does not happen all the time. I am thinking of trying your solution in the following way. I do not want to remove the pump from the tractor as I do not want to get involved with timing complications etc. I was going to disconnect the incoming supply and the injection lines and drain the pump of its diesel. Then squirt in a full can of WD40 and leave it to soak in over night and then drain off. Could this basic approach provide me with the same result as you achieved?

[@themadmailler]

I used WD because it was at hand. If i were you i'd run a heavy concentration of Marvel oil in it to free it up. Don't be afraid of removing the pump... it's a tedious task to put it back on but not awful. The more you do it the easier it is, and i sure have had some experience taking off this pump...

[@chargermopar]

It really is obscene what the diesel shops charge for repairs. I have to rebuild my injection pump every year because I run vegetable oil. The vane pump gets stuck when it sits too long and the whole pump benefits from a thorough cleaning.

[@themadmailler]

a pump rebuild every year? that's ridiculous. any cost savings of WVO is going out the window with that rebuild. are you switching to diesel before shutting off the motor each time?

[@chargermopar]

I never switch fuels because they end up mixing in the tank from residual return. The rebuild is only 30 dollars of seals and a couple of hours in my shop. I clean the fuel tank twice a year. If you don't clean out the pump yearly deposits build up and it stalls at idle. The advance plunger can get stuck and it can run retarded making extra smoke.

[@themadmailler]

Oh you're rebuilding yourself? not too bad then. Still a royal pain to take the pump off and re-time and re-install each year. are you filtering the WVO first? Or maybe you can look into making your own biodiesel out of the WVO instead. That's nice because you can easily exchange regular diesel and biodiesel in the same tank.

[@chargermopar]

I used to make biodiesel but it got to be expensive and I was losing too much energy from the vegetable oil. In 2009 I went full WVO and ran fine till winter 2012 when I seized my pump in cold weather. In 2013 I started the yearly rebuild and no breaks since then. I centrifuge the oil and Ph balance it to avoind corrosion.

[@themadmailler]

Interesting. Sounds like you got it to a science! What vehicle do you run it in?

[@juanwhitley1731]

Sorry need to know if i have to retime the tractor when i install new pump

[@themadmailler]

This video details how to do that.

[@jjano2320]

You might be able to take the cover off without pulling the pump.

[@paulbains9152]

Yes you can , and save yourself a whole lot of timing work .

[@stefanoancona7642]

A Stanadyne Pump?

[@themadmailler]

Roosa-Master. I believe stanadyne bought them at some point.

[@paulbains9152]

Yes , DB style . some have an electrical stop solenoid , some use the long end of the hold in C-clip to stop it mechanically . Hes got the mechanical version , if you look at the inside of the cover , theres no solenoid .

[@shaggydogg3786]

Have you tried “ Power Service”? Seems to keep that problem at bay...

[@themadmailler]

fresh fuel, loaded up with lubricity additive!

[@peggywyrick1621]

How do I order the repair manual for the roosamasterfuelpumpinjection 480LL???

[@peggywyrick1621]

Please send info to [e-mail].

[@jimbuford4147]

I watched it all the way through but what exactly was the problem?

[@themadmailler]

the metering valve was stuck and i was not getting fuel to the injectors, so i had to take the pump apart to loosen the valve up.

[@Skodak96]

@@themadmailler i know im late but can't his be done on the engine? Gonna be working on one today and I feel that I could just get it while on the engine.

[@themadmailler]

@@Skodak96 I don't have this tractor any more, but I doubt I would have taken the pump off if I didn't need to. I think the loader arms were in the way. If you had a clear shot, definitely do this with it on the tractor!

[@ronobrien7187]

Roosa Master pumps generally suck.

[@BIGBAMBOO420187]

SAVED YOURSELF $691.00

[@themadmailler]

+BIGBAMBOO420187 First rule of repair... if it's already fucked, you can't do any damage trying to fix it...

[@juanwhitley1731]

Cant find a video of how to replace a fuel injector pump on a deisel 1976 ford 3600 series tractor. Need to know that particular make and módem and series needs yo be retimed when u install the new injector pump

[@chrisscott1547]

The distorted audio caused by overlevel is very distracting.

[@braddeyoung8701]

Fix Or Repair Daily.

[@fcarp1685]

What a coincidence you posted this! After many years of trying I finally bought my grandpas 981 diesel and it is leaking at the backplate on the pump! Thanks for going through this.

[@themadmailler]

+fcarp1685 Glad it helped! have fun with gramps' tractor! it's great to keep it in the family.

[@fcarp1685]

+themadmailler So I got my pump back and installed (I believe correctly). It seems like the overall rule is that as long as you are on 18 degrees with the pump marks lined up and it is all still lined up after 2 rotations of the engine the tractor is good to run. Is that a correct assumption? (I haven't owned a diesel until now)

[@themadmailler]

That sounds right. You also have to make sure that when flywheel and pump marks are all aligned for timing purposes, #1 cylinder has to be at TDC compression. I believe that the Ford motor is a little bit foolproof because the drive tang is odd shaped and only goes in one way, so you can't accidentally install it 180 degrees off. You should be fine, bleed those lines and see if it fires off!

[@fcarp1685]

Awesome thank you!

[@fcarp1685]

+themadmailler Well my Ford is now running thanks to this video! thanks!

[@robertharelson124]

Sifting through a lot of terrible images online, your video actually solved a problem I had with the shutoff j clip reinstall. Amazing quality and thanks for sifting through the manual! I had to tear down and completely reseal the pump.

[@themadmailler]

glad i could help!

[@laneburgess1643]

Awesome video and very informative. Thanks for making it

[@themadmailler]

Thank you!

[@VeryMuchBlessed]

Good video and very helpful. Thanks much.