Maytag Washer Repair - How to replace the Lid Switch Assembly

Need help replacing the Lid Switch Assembly (Part #22001682) in your Maytag Washer? Watch this how to video with simple, step-by-step instructions for a successful DIY repair.
Stay safe during your repair! Be sure to check www.fix.com/sa... for proper safety procedures before you begin. Use of this video is at your own risk, without liability to Fix.com.
Fix Part Number: FIX2019709
OEM Part Number: 22001682
Why you might need to replace the Lid Switch Assembly:
1. Timer will not advance
2. Will not agitate
3. Will not drain
4. Will not fill with water
5. Will not start
What tools you need for this repair:
• 1/4 inch nut driver
• 1/4 inch socket and ratchet
• 5/16ths nut driver
• Phillips screw driver
The information in this video is specific to Maytag and International. To find a Lid Switch Assembly specific to your model, visit www.fix.com
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[@tommykid29]

Excellent video. I just happen to have the exact make and model of this washer in the video. I was prepared to order the entire lid switch, but I have a great local appliance shop in town that put a voltmeter on the three parts attached to the switch. We found that one of the pieces was bad, and they had one on their shelf, and I was out the door for $18. My washer is up and running again, and I have no doubt that this would’ve been a $250 repair.

[@darkcoffee-48]

Perfect instructions for fixing my 23 year old Maytag. I'm actually (a little) happy I can do laundry again.

[@francecyrenne6016]

2 months to get the part but 15 minutes to install. Thank you!

[@LoneWolf0568]

Ok, I bought a used washer just like this one. The guy I bought it from even shot a few short videos of it working before I made the drive to pick it up. One the drive home I guess the part of the lid switch that actually engages the led popped out. Is there a way to replace or bypass that?

[@bjrinshore]

Done! Happy Wife, Happy Life! Thanks You.

[@-ed5293]

I found this whole assembly part on Ebay for less than $9! What is not shown in the video is that the whole assembly can slide forward or back to increase the pressure on the mechanical lid switch. When I first installed it, it did not work until I slid the assembly forward and tightened the mounting screw down real tight. That heavy duty Maytag is probably the best washer I have ever owned! My wife is a quilter and she regularly throws giant heavy quilts in it with no problems. What we both like about it is that it does not have a lot of bells and whistles. It is simple and easy to use. Mine is a little older than the one shown and it is definitely from the '80's. We got it at the Habitat for Humanity Restore fo $50. It looked like new and was probably only used on Sundays by a little old lady who washed her church clothes.

[@ismaelcarrillo3956]

That's probably what's wrong with mine. I have to add a slight pressure on the door to work

[@irish89055]

I just slamm the lid and it will engage.. mine's pretty old and timer doesn't advance on the heaviest cycle...

[@tremonmills4364]

Could you make a video changing the control panel on the same model washer??

[@maryruffcorn1358]

Wondering if you need the whole assembly replaced and not just part. How can you by pass this to see if it is the problem? I have seen videos that show how on other models. Thank you. It was a great video.

[@nanaleigh328]

My neighbors Maytag isn't starting. It must be a lid switch death day...lol ...I just watched someone state that the fuse was out, yet he changed the whole unit anyway.

[@maryruffcorn1358]

Thanks. I did order the lid switch assembly unit. Hope I am correct!

[@alvint4944]

@@maryruffcorn1358 hi! how did it go? :)

[@alvint4944]

@@nanaleigh328 would you know how many ampere is the fuse? need to replace mine, cant seem to read the text on the fuse

[@barbarab2945]

Wonderful! Thank You AdamDIY

[@TomDuslak-fq3wp]

Mtw5800tw does this model have a lid switch

[@Kellystamant-iw9qo]

did repair today, spot on, thanks!

[@billnesbitt6595]

It's not clear in the video how to tell where to position the assembly. Which button should the actuator arm be pressing on when the lid is closed, and which when open? The big one by the fuse, the little one on the opposite side, or neither? Opening my lid pushes the arm to the back towards the big one, and closing forwards to the small one, and I know from another video to listen for two clicks for both opening and closing. (One button releasing and the other pressing.) But, I've tried repositioning repeatedly, with no luck.

[@MrRidgwaters]

I adjusted mine to where, when the lid is closed, the actuator arm pushes against the big one by the fuse just until it clicks closed.

[@tonyarichards5067]

I replaced my lid lock assembly and it came in the locked position. How do I get it out of the locked position once installed. I hear a click when I plug it in and the lock light flashes a few times, but nothing else happens.

[@Tubular4444]

Thank you!!!!

[@harryberry474]

This looks like a model that's pretty old analog switches? Most of todays washers are all touch panels this video was posted on 2016? how old is that washer 1980's?

[@arribasn]

Sure why not, I have a Maytag from 1985 that just needed this repair.

[@nolu0000]

Bought this washer in 2001. And yesterday 21-0207 was the the first time I had a problem with it. Analog rules!

[@tomperalta8551]

I put a new fuse and it blew it need help

[@alvint4944]

I have the problem, were you able to fix your problem? How many ampere fuse did you replace?

[@darafts]

@@alvint4944 I tried a new fuse as well, similar or slightly higher amp, and it worked for a month or so, then blew again. I then following this video, purchased and replaced the assembly, and it’s working fine now.

[@irish89055]

I can't believe Maytag made something so complex for a lid switch unlike other washers

[@barbarab2945]

Agree

[@lackeydehackey405]

Junior repair peoples, please dont buy the whole assembly until you have done the following. There are two switches. Both are replaceable. Disconn power cord. take back 3+2 screws off. Get an ohmmeter set at low ohmages scale. Pull double black wire on the Lid Open switch (one with just two connections). Red test lead goes to the switch not the blakc wire.. Pull the glass barrel fuse. The other test lead goes to the white wired end of the fuse holder. Lower lid slowly. At no time should the ohmeter register continuity. Test #2 Will the timer moor run. Without removing the yellow wire, move the test lead on the fuse holder to the yellow wire on the Check switch. When the lid is down, there must be continuity and when the lid is up, no continutiy. Test #3 (may be redundant) One test lead goes to thee red wire on the check switch (three terminals) and one goes to the white wire on the fuse block. WHen the lid is closed , there should be an open aka no continuity. When the lid is up, there shoudl be continuity aka about zero ohms. If you remove this assmbly before ordering, the microswitches come out and you can check each one. Microswitches are way cheaper than this whole assembly and way more reliable than an Ebay one. And watch the South Main Auto Channel (not a sponsor) to learn why you test first before you buy a part. Dont be a Parts Cannon. I just saved myself a bunch of $$$ by rebuilding this assmbly when it jsut needed reassembly and getting those 2 microswitches in sync with the metal door switch out of balance alarm. Comment if you need hep (southern speak)

[@billnesbitt6595]

I know you posted this a year ago, but I'm stuck and hope you can help. Identical switch and positioning with different colors on the wires on my washer, so I'm having to rewatch to translate, but I think I'm following you. Test#1: Independent of the fuse being in or out and/or which switch is being triggered I'm getting no continuity (I already checked for continuity across the fuse per another video, and confirmed mine is good). Test#2 The only time I have no continuity is when the actuator is between buttons. As soon as either button is pressed, I get continuity. This was without undoing the changes made to set up for test #1. Test#3: No connectivity open or closed. Repeating tests 2 & 3 with the fuse in, and the "black" wire connected I get continuity always for test#2 and continuity only when the lid is open for test #3. Does that tell you anything?

[@MrRidgwaters]

It was cheaper for me to buy the whole assembly than it was to just buy the white switch.

[@Sanjaykumar-rl3gi]

supar

[@poopoopeepee9843]

top notch instruction video. this guy is the best. thank you!