Fixed Her Feet & Her Hands Got Stronger | Coaching Session (V4-V5 Climber)

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Watch Part 2 with Shu in the premium video library (7-day tree trial):
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In this climbing coaching session, I help Shu, an intermediate level climber in the V4-V5 range tighten up her footwork. Shu has been bouldering for 2 years and is already quite strong in her upper body, but needed some cues to help engage her lower body.

[@malindarayallen]

"If you're reaching with the right hand, turn your right hip in. If you're reaching with the left hand, turn your left hip in." So simple and clear, and immediately applicable.

[@billwinch7043]

I think it's the other way: Reaching with right hand, turn your right hip in

[@malindarayallen]

@@billwinch7043 oops! I swear it was right in my head! 🤦🏾

[@billwinch7043]

@@malindarayallen was good you did that. Helped to burn it into my memory :-)

[@movementforclimbers]

communication is key!

[@malindarayallen]

@@billwinch7043 glad I could help! And thanks for catching it! 😂🤣😂😭

[@shushannamkrtychyan4532]

I can’t express my whole experience after only a few coaching sessions. It was what I really needed and even though I still struggle some days, all the new techniques are now part of me for sure. Thank you for your patience and just a fun time climbing with you! Mostly speaking different languages lol

[@movementforclimbers]

You’re such a fun student to coach, Shu! Thanks for helping me with my Russian.

[@samuelaseolas]

So wonderful to meet you shu! Keep ripping on those V5s and V6's!

[@Alex_C_5605]

You both speak pretty good English. No russian accent.

[@samuelaseolas]

Such a fun lesson to film and be apart of, I’ve learned a lot just climbing with him after these sessions. Siawn’s a great coach! Hope y’all enjoy these 👏 make sure to grab that free ebook 😉

[@thatmakescents]

You are just killin it, love seeing these videos and your coaching & membership program success!! 🎉

[@ClimbingCaed]

This is an awesome video not just for intermediate climbers but also for coaching. The way you’re able to address the issue but also still be accepting of what the climber personally notices is such a great thing to see on camera.

[@0-Will-0]

I watch a lot of KZbin climbing content. Your videos always standout as consistently helpful and excellent. Hope to get your course content at some point.

[@michaelvo]

This was such a good video. The before and after was so clear and evident. I already used the techniques in today's session and told two other people at the gym about the video. It seems like literally everyone is square to the wall when they climb!

[@shannonmei9734]

I really enjoyed this! Just what I needed =D Thank you!

[@simonwilliams9850]

Exactly what I need, thank you! I've been able to make a little more sense of engaged footwork with slab climbing, which has made a big difference in technical difficulty, but I think this sort of footwork on more powerful climbing could make an even bigger difference to balance feeling of lack of power

[@JoaoPauloSoares61]

Amazing tips and content! Keep up with the great work

[@billking8843]

Wonderful coaching. I'm in my 60s and really need to minimize the forces going through my fingers and shoulders. This video picks up all of my climbing technique faults so it could have been tailor made for me.

[@lukasschallibaum5046]

Your channel is so awesome! Keep going

[@spncrptrsn]

The coaching session is a great format for you. Keep these coming please.

[@movementforclimbers]

glad you liked it! We have several of these lessons filmed and they're all on the premium video library. They were quite fun to do and I'll be sharing a few parts here and there on KZbin and Instagram.

[@Djdavidnyan]

Great lesson to watch, thanks!

[@ehtikhet]

Twisting hips towards holds is such a good cue!

[@antoinetruc4828]

Great teacher :)

Its funny because I just started to use that technique yesterday , even before watching this video (but watching a bunch of other ones from you). I've been bouldering for about two months, it feels good having the correct technique as a complete newb!

[@namidave]

Thank you Sir. 😊😊😊

[@lukasschallibaum5046]

Youre a very good coach

[@user-bs7cj8cl3g]

A year in climbing: I checked a video of my climbing from the first few months and found out that I used to twist much more often than I do today. You are right, I have become stronger and almost stopped using the twisting technique

[@movementforclimbers]

I'm the opposite. I used to climb a lot more square and outside flag tension based. It wasn't until I moved and started climbing at a new gym where the setting was different that I started twisting more. It's definitely the more efficient way to climb.

[@hellfish2309]

position, pressure, pendulum (closest synonym for ‘balance’ that starts w/ ‘p’)

[@aminedhahri8339]

I really love your videos specially these, 1on1 coaching ones. Btw I love your tank tops where are you getting them from?

[@BuckTheBug]

This video is so "refreshing". I've seen a few others where guys suggest getting stronger to overcome the V5/V6 plateau. I've thought I'm a weirdo with my approach - my limitation is my technic. Luckily I still remember words of my early tudor - "Unless you climb 8a (lead), you have a lot of other stuff to do than pulling and fingerboarding. You're strong enough but you have to be able to leverage that properly."

[@Renate_poool]

Idk if its just me but im always so confused about grades and what falls in beginner , intermediate and professional. But also all these different grade systems got me so confused. Like i have no idea if I climb high or not. And all those climbing influencers saying they got to v10 in a year is insane to me. Like i don't get it

[@michaelthanhsharp7557]

This video is gold. I know you're not at Pipeworks anymore; Momentum/Utah is lucky to have you

[@movementforclimbers]

Awww. Hugs.

[@Chendadon]

would love to see v6-v7 session

[@ejl74]

I’ve learned so much from your videos. Great food for thought.

[@upzang]

Love these kinds of videos, I find them to be extremely helpful. Kudos for your patience and clarity, this particular client was a bit snarky. If she would actually listen to what you’re teaching her, she could learn a thing or two about technique.

[@thisscreensucks]

I got a friend who climbs v3ish. He's constantly suggesting beta involving "just skipping that hold" as if it would make it easier. I keep telling him that the intended beta is going to be the easiest way for most people to complete a problem. Then he insists the intended beta might involve skipping that hold......he's lost.

[@movementforclimbers]

Is your friend tall? Sometimes taller climbers find a beta break that involves skipping a hold. I personally prefer to do the intended beta because it confirms the grade, and I get to do the movements the setters designed. I feel like I've cheated myself of the hard move (let's say for example it's a V8 move) if I find a V5 workaround solution.

[@sacredbluefire]

Is it possible to apply for in-person coaching on your website if we're in the same city? Saw there was an application but it looked like it was remote coaching!

[@tjfirhfjejUTH24]

yo my home gym! RIP i missed you

[@Guangqu]

what is this gym?

[@Jasond29223]

I'm having issues with claiming the ebook

[@davidw789]

How can I get coaching from you too? Since that's my same home gym lol

[@tyronelaces8690]

“Yea thats me as well”

[@alexanderbonnet3494]

Oh Crazy … some Twists.. some hooks and your Level turns from 5a to 7a 😂😂😂😂 me toooo

[@scytaletleilax]

First step: after 1 year of climbing, stop wearing rental shoes ...

[@mat822]

Is twisting needed even vertical/slightly overhanging wall outdoor? it seems to me outdoor footwork is a completely different game that you can't really grasp in the gym.

[@PotatoTK]

The grades in your gym are so much higher than mine. Obviously how a boulder looks and how it feels can differ a lot, but I mean... that 7A at the start looks in the 5-range or maybe at best a 6A in gyms I go to. Or am I mixing up a difference in EU vs US grading? EDIT: 03:56 Is V1 the lowest grade? If the easiest boulders start at 5 instead of 2-3, then that makes a lot of sense with the difference in grading.

[@masonmunkey6136]

V0-V1 is the lowest grade at the gyms I've climbed

[@scytaletleilax]

The most of the time you don't have the space for your knee to twist, but if you have do it of course.

[@TheODurgy]

Wait?!? Momentum in millcreek? Jesus you’re right near me

[@rockstarjazzcat]

Coached the bro that skips leg days. 😂

[@rockstarjazzcat]

Congratulations on the discoveries climber!

[@jonnes__4657]

🗽 She has no friends, well... 👽 .