Why You're Not Improving | 3 Things to Change

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In this video I’m going to cover the most likely reasons you’re not improving in your climbing. This can be directed to anyone from the advanced beginner hitting their first plateau to the seasoned climber who has held steady in their grades but never made that breakthrough.
0:00 Intro
0:54 Overtraining
4:16 Under-recovering
7:29 Climbing Approach
9:07 Closing Thoughts
9:42 Quick Update

[@6darkness6eternal6]

Fun fact, having a cold shower will not lower your bodies core temperature, it will raise it. Your body senses the temperature around you and will respond accordingly so if you're cold it will raise and if you're hot it will lower. Therefor a hot shower before bed will lower your core temperature and help you sleep, where as a cold shower in the morning will raise it and energise you for the day ahead.

[@mclaconic7974]

And further to that, there is lots of evidence that a hot bath (which lowers your core temperature quite significantly) actually does prep your body and mind for sleep. Numerous studies done and all the same conclusion. So for me it’s cold shower in the morning to wake up, and hot bath on every other night to help sleep. (Edit: lowers)

[@AlvaroLand]

I've heard this many times. However, it is false in my case. A cold shower can make me sleep colder almost for the entire night in summer. But each body may work differently.

[@movementforclimbers]

I've read this somewhere as well. I wonder if there's a sweet spot in how much time you spend in each temperature range. In the past (summer usually), I've had hot showers before bed and would be unable to fall asleep afterward because my body would sweat. Since I switched to ending with cold I rarely ever had this problem. I've also had straight to cold showers in the morning and just continue to be cold after for way too long it felt. Maybe my homeostasis is just off.

[@AlvaroLand]

@@movementforclimbers I think it's probably just different genetics, different biological strategies. Your homeostasis and mine may react slower but consume less energy.

[@devonrd]

​@@movementforclimbersI think taking the hot shower in an already hot environment meant that the body had to work really hard to lower the core body temperature. It wasn't really that the hot shower didn't do its work, but that the ambient temperature prevented your body from doing what it was trying to do: cool down. In such an environment, helping the body with supplemental cooling can help you fall asleep. Here is a trick for in the summer: Put a pair of long wet socks in the freezer. Make sure before putting them in the freezer to properly wring them out. Set a timer for 10 minutes. Take them out and tie them to your ankles. Consider putting a towel at your feet. Happy sleeping! 😊

[@pierredupont6379]

My secret technique for progress: Build your desire to improve around pleasure and having fun. Too often I have the impression that I come across strong climbers who are totally obsessed with the grades and seek to validate the route more than the pleasure of it. It's much easier to fall/fail when you're trying to climb better to have more fun than to validate every route in your big ego book.

[@elremito]

I was about to write the same comment! Thanks

[@mclaconic7974]

It’s so true. Genuinely no one outside of your narrow group of climbing folk will give a fuck or even know what the grades are. You have to find the satisfaction within.

[@kft4764]

I had a great climbing session yesterday with a new set of climbs in my gym. I barely sent anything. It was great. I had fun and I could care less that I didn't send. I enjoy being challenged. A send is just the cherry on top after a good challenge, but not the ultimate goal. I could choose easier climbs to send, but there's no satisfaction there. It's like doing a puzzle that I already know the answer to, boring.

[@slashnagy6]

This is the most important aspect of sport. It is the reason why athletes reach professional leagues/level. These people did their activity so much because they ENJOY it, that by default, they became good enough to do it for a living or do it at the highest level.

[@movementforclimbers]

Agreed. Having a good relationship with your passion/craft is so important for its longevity. I would add that in my experience, being able to deal with some discomfort/suffering/not having fun is also very important for developing the perseverance and discipline to stick with something long term. But ultimately, it does really come down to your "why".

[@alib3332]

Hit the V4 plateau and been stuck for over 6 months now. Perfect timing.

[@EmileModesitt]

Great advice that all climbers should be aware of! I think the "avoiding weaknesses" section could benefit from some more context. Climbers sometimes adopt this mindset of "train all weaknesses", which ends up making their training inconsistent and haphazard --- they try to "get good at everything all at once." While I absolutely agree that some climbers have a bad habit of limiting themselves to only the things they feel they're good at, it would equally be a mistake to feel like you're doing something wrong if you're not constantly trying to address every possible "weakness" you can find. While it doesn't matter much for beginners, unfocused training will absolutely compromise progress in intermediate and advanced climbers. For example, if all the hard climbs you want to send at your local crag are steep, powerful boulders, doing a bunch of sport and slab climbing will likely not help you accomplish your actual goal even though they are relatively large weaknesses of yours -- in fact, it may actually subtract from the time you have to do training that would actually be relevant to your goal.

[@wrongbeta]

I love the simplicity and accuracy of your videos, thanks man!

[@rugeley72]

Great video. i am coming back to climbing after a 20 year break (as a 51 yr old) because my son is getting interested in climbing. i am going to have to train a little more seriously than i did in my youth. thank you for the great advice.

[@tomdemey5606]

This is such a great channel. I'm gonna rewatch many of your other vids when I feel the need to focus more on technique. As of now as a beginner I feel loads of improvement yet I've gathered some nice insight from your videos!

[@ScratchRick]

Thank you for making this video... I am my biggest bully about not improving in climbing.

[@AdamL_18]

Rest is so subjective. There is so many variables to consider. Most people i know dont recover well just because of poor nutrition or bad lifestyle habit. Some other eat well but not enought because they dont want to put on weight so they starve themselve. It leads to alot of injuries and bad recovery. The remaining is, stretching, warming up, supplements, genetic, age, sleep, training program, stress.. and more

[@escapevelocity8092]

Great description, can tell it comes from the soul of experience itself. Always great content 🙏

[@ejl74]

Yay! Love your videos! They have helped me so much!

[@hellwroughtangel]

Great list and explanations.

[@Sandrinandra]

Really great videos! Fantastic, thank you!

[@alejandrajuarez-diaz3453]

Love this, thank you 😊

[@AllegraClimbingPsychologist]

Very nice to hear about more mental aspects too! Great work as usual! ❤

[@kin4608]

First two months of climbing, I would go at least 3 times a week and go for at least 3 hours each session. I definitely overclimbed and killed my arms each time. Not enough rest between each session. As much as I hate resting more only bouldering twice a week and maybe 3 times and spending only 2 hours each time helps me out so much more since I work out a pretty good amount during my rest days from climbing(workouts that target parts that climbing can’t)

[@FlashEscalade]

Crazy how we realize we are still guilty of some of these mistakes after years of experience. Thanks for the video. PDM

[@movementforclimbers]

CHU

[@khalilcolgrove1906]

Crazy to see the Huberman shoutout, been watching ever since his podcast first started

[@movementforclimbers]

Huberman is the only reason I get sunlight in the mornings.

[@isaaccraft2050]

This video got a subscribe from me. So much food for thought.

[@CrabappleKing]

I love your room. It's so chaotic. A lava lamp? Tiles?? A FIRE?!!!1

[@sims234ify]

This really hit home and led me to restructuring my training schedule. I am currently suffering from an eating disorder coupled with a sports addiction aka overtraining. Do you have any advice on how long one should take a break if extensively overtraining for multiple months? (Multiple weeks/months without rest days)

[@movementforclimbers]

I've found that training in 6 week mesocycles work best for me. It usually consists of an acclimatization period in week 1, hard training weeks 2-5 (split into periodized focuses ex: strength followed by power), then a deload week in week 6. You might benefit from tapering off a bit and having rest days (1:1 train to rest) mixed in with your training cycles and of course deloading when you need. Kinda know when to turn the dial up a bit and then down a bit, instead of turning it up all the way for too long and then turning it off all the way for too long. Good luck!

[@forrestmorrisey]

Don't forget to stretch!

[@kAb1307]

I’m 40 and a good 20 minute stretch before I climb is mandatory. Some of my younger climbing buds have joined me now and have seen that extra mobility transfer directly to their climbing

[@TheValinov]

@stefano ghisolfi ... naaaa ;)

[@thesii213]

Love the new videos! Also... how did you size your Veloces? I can't get the heel to sit right.

[@chill0314]

Velcoe wearer hear. One size down. Fits like a sock.

[@stroob3734]

The heel sucks in general on the veloce

[@ConductiveFoam]

And I thought it was a weird quirk with my feet.

[@ionot]

Have you tried the women/low volume version? Apparently it's tighter around the heel

[@thesii213]

@@ionot I have, but it still feels a bit baggy. Word on the street is the new lace update might fix it?

[@jjkj8421]

Thanks

[@lorenzalber]

very nice to see you own a kendama 🤙

[@movementforclimbers]

I'm like a V2 kendama player.

[@szpaqus]

we were overtraning with bouldering 3x week :| we had to scale back to 2x. hard decision but necessary. (we are women close to or over 30, we do other sports in between sessions and we do not regenerate amazingly so yeah. it was too much, it was fun but killing our gains.)

[@billking8843]

Male over 60. I can boulder 3X a fortnight - going hard each time. Can do 3 hard workouts a week in total so 2 hard lifting sessions, 2 easier lifting sessions plus bouldering, plus moderate cardio is manageable.

[@szpaqus]

@@billking8843 yeah, individual predispositions count but in general testosterone makes a difference. Our male college had no issue with 3x a week :|

[@movementforclimbers]

dang that's a rough schedule. 3x a week bouldering is already kinda tough (if you're going slightly ham). throw in other sports on top and you feel like you never recover. glad you've found your happy medium and enjoying the gains.

[@AusVersehen]

Man, that is a pretty loud foam roller 😂

[@matt89545]

What's the brand on that vibrating foam roller?? I'd never heard of one before and now I really want one 😍😍

[@movementforclimbers]

that's a first generation Vyper by Hyperice (they're on Vyper 3 now). It's been serving me well since 2016!

[@alexnunez4019]

Awesome video...I totally fail at it all lol

[@zh3178]

If anyone is curious about a non-sponsored opinion of AG1. I love it, everything the sponsors say about energy, nutrition, etc..... all on point. i feel ...cleaner, healthier and more alert. its not energetic boost like coffee. but youll notice if you try

[@Mylada]

It offers nothing above a good diet and maybe multivitamin if you arent getting something

[@zh3178]

@Sokrates I'm bad at eating veggies and salade regularly. So this is my compensation. I take 0 supplements, never have or needed to imo. But I enjoy the product. Plus it's from NZ greatest country on the planet. Wholesome people with good intentions

[@stf6086]

@@zh3178 i have to dissapoint you, nothing wholesome, pure capitalism and aggressive marketing. There are ,better‘ and cheaper alternatives than ag1. However , Most people in Western countries dont need any vitamin or mineral Supplements, unless your doctor tells you you have a deficit. There is a lot of Research about vitamin and Mineral Supplements around, Not Supporting These Supplements. Taking to high doses für too long seems to increase the probability of cancer. Look it up yourself.

[@CJski]

As somebody with an infant, consistent and quality sleep just isn't in the cards right now. However, limiting myself to climbing 3 days a week is an easy way to feel fresh (or nearly fresh) each session.

[@JustinCasey216]

Bring the kid with

[@CJski]

@@JustinCasey216 oh I do. Just realized I forgot the word “sleep” in my comment

[@JustinCasey216]

@CJ Ski ooof yeah that must be super tiring with a kid lol I wish you the strength of thor you can climb well

[@boulderrrrrrrrer]

Haha perfect timing, first plateau beginner here

[@Glenners]

Naw, I just suck 😢 I don't know how people are cool putting their feet over their head 12 feet off the ground and then hoping their hand sticks on the next move.

[@cmac37420]

First you tell me to not overtrain, now you're telling me to move better and Climb Harder... which one is it Mr. Movement??

[@RomanGuro]

Me (lost interest a little due to the lack of progress and going to climbing once a week): Overtraining! Exactly! )))

[@user-bs7cj8cl3g]

Im 41 yo. Climbing since November. When I started I was able climb V0-V2 From beginning I climbed 4-5 times per week. I even bought membership in two different climbing gym for bouldering and for top rope climbing. After 3 months I realized it is not enough just a climb and I begun to do special workout for climbing (fingerboarding/weighted pull ups/squats/pushups/ets). So today I climb just 2 times per week, 3 times per week do climbing workout and two times per DAY I do fingerboard routine. I still feel progress my red point V7 and 5.12C After 3 months I will start campusing for slopers and pinches. Any way your advice about nutrition and sleeping pretty useful. Thanks for video.

[@kAb1307]

At age 41 no less

[@cwehden]

@@tedtran7855 yeah I don't think this is true, v6 in a year is good progress for most young climbers let alone 40+

[@jkraemo]

@@cwehden I mean, soft gyms exist, I generally wouldn’t really give too much thought about someone’s grade progress unless it’s on a board with often repeated problems or outside

[@ascotter]

@@cwehden Especially in the gym I feel like this is pretty normal tbh, I know people who got to like V10 in a year

[@user-bs7cj8cl3g]

@@tedtran7855 Actually I use to climb in the middle school 1994-96 it was outside rock climbing just for fun. But I did not climb and even did not work out for 25 years. By the way I always was skinny in good shape.