Fixing a 3d Printed Skateboard Mold and Re-pressing my Freestyle Deck

In this video I'm taking a stab at modifying my 3d-printed skateboard mold so that it has more surface area for pressing decks, then I'm taking a stab at pressing another blank. The results look promising, I hope you dig it!
Rounding your deck’s rails is a breeze with the Bishop router mount:
www.goodroadscollective.com/s...
Drill perfect bolt holes with the Scarab drilling guide:
www.goodroadscollective.com/s...
Want to support the channel? Check out the Patreon:
/ goodroads
IG: @chrisfromgoodroads
Tunes by Drew McCann:
drewmccann.bandcamp.com/

[@philippeguay4148]

always good content... thanks !

[@griffinstoffel7126]

Love the video keep up the great Work.

[@ErtsenPlayGames]

the easiest ,super stiff way is to fill the holes with concrete / resin or fibreglass epoxy/polyester putty and then paint it for super smooth surface :)

[@justintietz4477]

exactly what I was thinking!

[@GoodRoads]

I'd be worried the concrete would act like an ice cube tray, but epoxy would work. It would be an expensive mold though. What's polyester putty? That sounds like the best of both worlds?

[@LongboardTechnology]

That doesn't sound easy at all. Skinning it with a veneer of wood is about as easy as pressing a board, and given that pressing a board is what it was designed for in the first place, that's pretty easy.

[@ErtsenPlayGames]

@@GoodRoads its called car boddy filler etc cheap stuff , used on cars before paint if u part is damaged etc but not the strongest sollution if the mold will be bend etc (polyester one without fibers like to crack) i will try to fill it with the fiber putty to 90% and finish it with epoxy for smooth surface without changing the thickness of the mold etc

[@ErtsenPlayGames]

@@LongboardTechnology yes and no if u design 3D mold and dont want to change it dimmensions its the easiest way I work in composites make few k parts , molds etc from polyester cheap parts to epoxy / prepreg racing parts etc , and i make "few" composite decks without using wood etc

[@deopersad2915]

Awesome 👍🏾👍🏻 yeah I only pasted one side of mine and it delaminated , so for my next one's I will past both sides, and got to put more shape in them 😀👍🏻 but I have been busy with other things at the moment so will do it later at some stage, later I will make the foam mould, but as we going into winter here in New Zealand all the underfloor insulation has sold out arrh it was available last week but when I went to get it last night they had sold out and have no idea when it will be back?? Lol awesome cheers

[@LongboardTechnology]

Skinning the board in the rubber will make it nicer to use, but it also blocks a lot of the water from the glue in. That's probably why the board wasn't so dry after 24 hours. My boards do the same thing when I use formica top and bottom sheets. Sometimes I'll leave those in the press the better part of a week if I'm not in a rush to make a lot.

[@GoodRoads]

I figured it was something like that, thanks! The extra cure time is really no big deal for me at this point

[@LongboardTechnology]

Having a mold that glue doesn't stick to is pretty worthwhile on its own. I still haven't done a 3D printed mold, because I've got access to a CNC now. So I can't say directly from any experience whether or not the grid was contributing to the delam issue, but I suspect not. But one thing I will say is that having the two mold halves match perfectly for my deck thickness has been so nice. I'm a little surprised you gave that up, or didn't re-print a new mold with additional offset built in or anything.

[@GoodRoads]

I think I don't really know what I'm missing in regards to the perfectly aligned molds, I really only got one press out of my matched set and it failed. I'm also still not sure my offsets are being generated correctly as I'm still using my kludge-y method in Fusion. At some point I'm 100% going to be following your tutorial and making myself a sick set of molds. The CNC is a dream too, how's that working out for you?

[@LongboardTechnology]

The CNC is incredible. But I actually haven't learned to really use it yet so all I've made from it is a single mold. But its really nice, I used calipers on my actual wood stock to determine the offset in fusion to get it perfect, and its just so positive when the mold is closed. You're not torqueing the mold tighter and tighter to try and squeeze all the shape you can get, its just closing, closing, closing, Shut. Could be phycological, but I really feel like I'm doing more with less force.

[@rekhasrivastava5114]

Hey I am back your regular viewer

[@GoodRoads]

Good to see you again!

[@josephdemorizi4550]

you are god

[@johndust5759]

Hi, Chris just buy your 3d mold, I have few questions, how many board can you make a the same time ? And how long wait on it with 40t press ? Thanks

[@GoodRoads]

I have not tried the printed molds at high tonnage or for multiple decks, so I really don't know. I did some strength tests in this video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/goSliGqqacl2Z7M and the math says they should hold up to a 40t press okay, but theoretical ideas and real life don't always agree. The offsets in the molds are designed to press one deck at a time, but since they have a little flex to them it might be possible to press two or three. A couple sheets of foam rubber on the molds like in this video would help with that too

[@tim3019]

Hey Chris, I love the content you're putting out! I found my way here via The Makers Movement. I have a 3D printer on the way and I'm super curious about this process. How much filament did you have to use for the complete mold?

[@GoodRoads]

I had to use three spools for this mold, but I didn't use the whole spools, I had some left over. It was six total prints. I'm going to tackle a bigger mold soon and try the progressive infill thing I mentioned at the end of the video to see if I can reduce the amount of plastic needed and still get a better mold. We'll see!

[@tim3019]

@@GoodRoads Awesome, thanks! Can't wait to see the results.

[@BlankofMaterial]

do you use a torque wrench to set the nuts? should consider it for consistency sake.

[@GoodRoads]

That's be a really good way to get some precision out of this setup

[@pietrocolombo2104]

I'm printing a mold, but in the design phase, given my poor skills, I didn't consider the thickness of the board, what do you think can happen? Should I start over or will it work?

[@GoodRoads]

Give it a shot, try a dry layup first and see if there are any gaps between the plys and the mold. If there are you can use some foam rubber to help fill that in or redesign and reprint. It might work just fine though

[@jackrubinstein6548]

Do you know if or when the files will be public for the mold?

[@GoodRoads]

I'm not going to make this set of molds public but I do plan on doing at least one set of more generic, open-source molds in the next couple months. This one is a super weird experimental shape

[@jackrubinstein6548]

@@GoodRoads Ok, thanks!

[@trevencook5434]

That looks like an awesome set up! Do you happen to sell the 3D print file for the deck press?

[@GoodRoads]

Not for this shape, it's a bit of a weird one, but I'm planning on doing a more standard geometry later in the year and releasing the files. In the meantime you should check out SK8CAD by Open Source Skateboards, its a free mold design tool that you can export .stls from

[@trevencook5434]

@@GoodRoads right on! Sounds good. Thank you!

[@cs3807]

Have you considered using one side of the printed mold (convex side) in a vacuum bag?

[@GoodRoads]

I've done it! I used a slightly different printing method and infilled the mold with plaster, but it worked out great: kzbin.info/www/bejne/d4KVgYOLn5yAoLs

[@brendanstarkey]

Hi Chris, I’ve been playing on fusion 360 trying to split the 3D model into smaller parts as the current model is far too larger for my ender 5pro. Any tips on how to do this would be awesome.. I’ve been riding since 1996 and I say you content is awesome. Ow it’s time to make my own.. is roarrockit the only place that you source your veneers?

[@GoodRoads]

I get most of my stuff from Roarockit, I also got a couple veneer sets from Carver & Stone but they have a small minimum order. I know a lot of people slice models with meshmixer, which I've never tried, what I usually do in fusion is just make a sketch with some super narrow rectangles (like 0.5mm or so) where I want the slices and then just cut extrude them to split the models. Just thinking about it construction planes would probably work better hahaha!

[@brendanstarkey]

@@GoodRoads yeah I’ve slit the bodies using just a line that I’ve sketched.. but I’ll look at it again, I was tired when I tried 🤣. Thanks for the info mate.

[@whertigo]

Hey! Been enjoying your videos alot, and got myself a 3d printer just yesterday (same as yours) to get down an dirty. I've got the board shape ready in 3d, but I'd love some how-to on slicing - which software do you use, and how do you get that cross-sectioned output?

[@GoodRoads]

Sweet! I'd love to hear how your mold comes out. I'm using Cura and I'm still experimenting with the settings, but I've got an 0.8mm nozzle that I'm using to print a 1mm line at a 0.3mm layer height. This mold was printed with one wall, 20% infill, and zero top and bottom layers using grid infill. I used a brim to help with bed adhesion.

[@whertigo]

@@GoodRoads Thank you very much for your reply. Think I got it so far. Do you divide your model into 300X300 parts before loding them into Cura?

[@GoodRoads]

Yep! Or even a little smaller if I can manage, I always get nervous maxing out the build volume

[@angusls6032]

@@GoodRoads hi dude what 3d printer do you use. Looking to get one myself.

[@GoodRoads]

My large printer is an Artillery Sidewinder

[@ulikb6530]

what do you call the black rubber mats that you stick on the wood ??

[@GoodRoads]

This is the foam rubber I used: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FMWGJ6J/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title If you're asking about the black grid that's stuck to the wood is actually 3d-printed, you can see how I put all that together here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/nHOymKyKismJjcU

[@ulikb6530]

Thanks! can you say how expensive the two 3d prints are if you don't have a 3d printer yourself?

[@GoodRoads]

I have no idea. The molds were actually six prints, three sections for the top and three sections for the bottom. They're really big as far as prints go and I used a bunch of pretty specific settings to make them strong and also save on plastic and printing time. I feel like it might be an expensive job to farm out