Fixing a compression joint weeping leak quick and cheap by Benson Chik

Try to turn on our heating today and found a weeping leak which got worse over time. Time for a quick and easy fix
£5.79 Fernox LS-X seaaler
www.screwfix.com/p/fernox-ls-...
suitable for drinking water pipe etc

[@geeeeeeeezzzzzzzzzz]

I changed my Willis emersion heater (old one about 50 years old) and I'm not a plumber but while I was digging out the totally blocked with lime scale pipe, I weakened a joint at the other end of the pipe so that when I got it all up and running again and working beautifully in total silence compared with the clanking and banging it was making before, I had a one drop per day leak so being that it's a very old and awkward system to drain, I wrapped the joint in black pvc electrical tape and stuck a cable tie over that and hey presto jobs a good one. It's so easy I don't know why you don't see that a lot online and it's quite a tidy finish also. I didn't even have to pay a few pound for some of that sealer mess and in another 50 years when the heater needs changing again, some-one (I'll be dead) can put a new olive in lol.

[@alanrobertson9790]

Using LS-X on a sink drain so reassuring that you got it to work on a more demanding duty. I've still got 2-12 hours to wait.

[@djfernando16]

Maybe a plumber was charging ‎£50 + vat 20 years ago, but these days they won't get out of the bed for less that £150. I was away, and I had my tennant call a plumber because a hose from a bathroom sink was leaking. A £5 hose. The guy said he either replaces the tap as well (with a grohe branded one), or he won't touch it. I ended up paying £175 in cash (or £220 on invoice)

[@mrpurpleman9698]

Yes this appears the going rate, you are bang on right plumbers and tradies at this point just want £175+ for 1 single job if you then say I also need this and this done they look at it as 3 jobs but give a discount probably since they know £175 is already too expensive and x that by 3 is even more affordable. What will happen is I suspect if its a bloke they will just try and watch YT and diy or best can its what I have been doing for many years already.

[@verdaderelevante7096]

Thanks for your video. I’m having trouble trying to solve small leaks under the bath tube where access is very limited. I think it will solve the problem.

[@BCreviews]

Good luck 🤞 plumber here cost a lot 😳

[@iantobanter9546]

Hemp and paste. Cheap and effective.

[@JamesPond-cd3tp]

Is LS-X still working OK for you!? Same sort of issue here... Thanks.

[@BCreviews]

Yes, no leaks anymore

[@jamesgibson2179]

It would have been good if you had cleaned up the joint with steel wool and fine carborundum paper so that it looked as new.

[@BCreviews]

I could but since it is hidden in my cupboard aesthetic, it’s not a priority. There’s too many cool gadget waiting to be reviewed and not enough time 😁 thank you for watching and your support means so much to me 👍

[@tombartram7384]

Soo satisfying when you save £££££s with a kwik fix

[@BCreviews]

At this point in time every little bit helps

[@Cvbbj670]

Lol you should of just replaced that pipe since it’s tee off a compression joint. And you done the hardest part disconnecting it and drain down cylinder.

[@BCreviews]

Just add some paste and forget about it for another 15 years 👍 Replacing that is the correct way to go but I am not a plumber and no torch, weld…. So much fuss

[@6969allgood]

That's a tap connector union not a compression joint, a compression joint has a nut and olive also that Tap connector should have a fibre washer on it then it won't leak. That is the wrong fitting cylinders usually have a compression nut and olive

[@stevendickinson2897]

Why didn't you break nut on convex fitting above the leak and wrap PTFE tape around olive and the job is done no need for that stuff

[@BCreviews]

A true plumber will dismantle it and repair and replace. I am a DIY fixer and the less joint I touch the better. The joint is still dry when I did my winter heating check last week so all good.

[@metallitech]

I don't think it's a compression fitting. Doesn't it have a rubber seal up in there?

[@BCreviews]

Compression joint , it is metal on metal. There is a nut crushing on a copper ring which seals agains the pipe etc.

[@metallitech]

@@BCreviews It looks like a union, but I could be wrong.

[@BCreviews]

Not sure but with the added sealant it is bone dry now.

[@Piblochinstar]

I know your not a plumber but you should of just put it round the thread. Then screwed it up 👍

[@BCreviews]

That is what I would usually do if it is leaking from the threads but this is the gap between the olive ring and the nut.

[@gedheaton1415]

@@BCreviews Mate there is no olive there that is a tap connector the seal is a fibre washer,the threads play NO part in the seal they merely tighten the fitting onto the other thread.

[@BCreviews]

@@gedheaton1415 There is definitely a olive ring on the pipe, nevertheless the joint is still dry from the fix. If it happens again I will take advise and just replace the entire L shape mess

[@gedheaton1415]

@@BCreviews Sorry mate you are totally wrong,I'm a Plumber of 40+ yrs, that is a Tap connector,seal is via a fiber washer, unless of course they have invented a new fitting with nut and olive on one side and solder ring on the other which btw they haven't.

[@BCreviews]

@gedheaton1415 lol, I am not disputing your expertise but I know what I saw, there is a olive on the reduce pipe. I could be a botched job 13 years ago by a team of polish builder but it is what it is.

[@andrewm6192]

Great video, you could of used PTFE tape around the olive. You should be a plumber !!! Happy days.

[@BCreviews]

First day turning on the heating today and joint is still dry 🎉 tape is possible but the gap is huge, I should learn how to to soldering and bending pipe and get rid of that section all together 🥹

[@alanrobertson9790]

Yes PTFE was my favourite too and with metal threads and some pressure maybe better. However I had a plastic sink drain and with a PTFE tape it jumped the threads and jammed. Had to cut drain off and in my second attempt used LS-X. Not leaking so far.

[@gedheaton1415]

Because there is No Olive, its not a compression fitting.

[@Mallynat]

cudda undone compression joint on top much easier

[@BCreviews]

A true plumber will replace the joint, I was worried I would cause more damage by undoing more joints. It is holding so far so I would just shut the door and forget about it for a few more years 👍

[@Mallynat]

@@BCreviews nigh on inpossable to damage a compression joint try it next time

[@RIDDONS]

@@Mallynat Unfortunately not everyone can afford expensive plumbers at this time of recession. The man is showing a cheap alternative to spending alot of money, rather than getting somebody in to solder together a new elbow and making a fresh joint.

[@Mallynat]

@@RIDDONS if he had done what I said don't need plumber so much easier that's what a plumber would do foolproof and lots easier

[@BCreviews]

It’s ok, if I undo the compression joint I could have better access to clean up the mess and may be cut the copper ring and replace. Still I find the paste easier as not having to replace anything. I could do it properly but choose not to. I am not asking anyone to do what I did but it is an option

[@djfernando16]

you should have used ptfe tape instead of the sealer

[@BCreviews]

Thanks for the tip, but why is tape better?

[@djfernando16]

​@@BCreviews PTFE/teflon tape is the bread and butter of plumbers. You defo must put it on thread, because when you tighten the nut, it seals the thread. Also, if ever you open the nut, or you want to replace bits, it's easy to remove it, or add another layer. Also, when you roll the tape on the thread, it's advided to go clockwise, so the nut will bite it. If the paste works, leave it on, but next time keep in mind. Let's say you get to a point where the damage it too big for you to repair: you go to your landlord, he sees a diy repair, he could blame you for it; you call a plumber, he might overcharge you, invoking extra work, etc.

[@BCreviews]

Yes, tape for thread. In this case the thread is not the main leak and it was the olive ring not being press against the fittings. The tape won’t form a seal with the ring but this thing got squeezed out of the joint and fill up the gap and stopped the leak. I could have taken out the whole thing with the compression joint as another viewer pointed out but all I wanted is a quick fix hence this sealant. Looking at the state of the crust formed it has been like that for the past 5-10 years. Just need it to last another 5-10 then a overhaul.

[@mrpurpleman9698]

I read on screwfix and diynot forums ptfe is used a lot for sealing but its actually not the best idea in some joints or plumbing parts say compression's and valves, ptfe is good for say garden taps. The plumbers over there seem to get really rattled up when someones ptfe taped say a flexi tap tail. More and more plumbers appear to be using fernox-ls or fernox jointing compound (one of drinking water and one without) since its providing a good watertight seal, there even using it now on garden taps oddly.... its almost replacing the ptfe tape oddly. Not a plumber mind just things I have read since am trying to do my own plumbing and leaking issues atm so reading up on stuff so I could be wrong.

[@maxfan9160]

Just wanna know if the nut could still be untightened after applying the seal ?

[@user-bz3wn1zo7e]

Very iffy solution

[@BCreviews]

Agree totally but it is still holding today 😆

[@dd5617]

Buddy that's a hot water cylinder not a boiler and you don't have a combi boiler lol

[@BCreviews]

Thank for watching my video Buddy, Don't think I call the tank a boiler but if I did it was a mistake. I have the ecoTEC plus combination store with combines a combi boiler and a hot water tank under high pressure with closed loop.

[@dd5617]

@@BCreviews you've got a system boiler with a hot water cylinder 👍