Fixing My BMW E34: Diagnostic Challenges & ECU damage?

[@errolnkh1776]

Oooh, the roller coaster with bmw diesel engines. Am right there with you, brother. Am 2 cylinder heads in, and after all the dramas, i finally found a shop to fix the original. The end is closer 😅😅. Keep on

[@DailyDrivenClasssics]

@errolnkh1776 @errolnkh1776 Thanks for the encouragement! It runs right now :) I just need to free up the rusty brakes since it has been sitting for so long:/ And its nice to hear that you found a good shop. I just hope that your repair doesn't end in the same nightmare as my cylinder head repair

[@bobfrankish8883]

Really interesting stuff. Hope the ECU is OK, fingers crossed it will be.

[@DailyDrivenClasssics]

@bobfrankish8883 @bobfrankish8883 I do not know unfortunately. I also did wiring tests with the injector 4 needle position sensor. The wires are fines. sensor is new and working. but inpa shows no actual injection angle. It is kinda frustrating :(

[@bmwfanatics1997]

Done the diagnostic on an 1997 bmw e36 it's a obd1(there is an adaptor from obd1 to obd2 that goes into the obd2 cable then to the laptop) It runs with inpa and ista+ from 2019 and a brand new 2024 laptop with no problems just but that adaptor and it will work!

[@DailyDrivenClasssics]

Nice! On my 2000 e46 everything works just how you described it. Running a new version of inpa on windows 11 2023 laptop. But a sure way to check if you need a tiny ads interface or not is if pin Nr 15 is present in the round port. Yours being 1997 it shouldn't have pin 15. since bmw switched in 1996 so 1996 and backwards needs the ads interface. Thanks for the support! :)

[@Rudya.K]

E36 tds? Can you help me maybe? I cannot get it to run and read ecu DDE 2.1. Only system I can read is Airbag unit.

[@DailyDrivenClasssics]

@@Rudya.K you can write me on IG. Im gonna try to help :)

[@a777fan]

+1 on the tinyADS. It’s great. Did you buy your’s pre-built? Or did you build it on your own? With your current troubles, measure the resistance at the pins on the ECU side of the harness with your 1000ohm resistor in place. You should see 1000ohms. If that works, do a voltage drop test on the harness. Disassemble the ECU connector so you can access the rear of the pins at the ECU when it’s plugged in. Plug the other end of the harness in at the temp sensor. Turn the key to on. Place your multi-meter leads on the ecu and temp connector ends of ONE of the two wires. You should see 0V. If you see a larger values. There is a voltage drop occurring somewhere in the harness. Repeat for the other wire.

[@DailyDrivenClasssics]

@a777fan @a777fan mine was prebuilt but I am looking to launch a reproduction with it fully prebuilt with adapters and cables. Today I did some more work and finally got it running. The coolant temp shows correctly right now. Unfortunately inpa is not showing a signal on the actual injection timing? I get continuity on both wires from needle position sensor to the ecu. The sensor is new and reads 100 ohms so its good. Tomorrow I'm trying to also look at the CPS maybe that's the culprit :( Thanks for your suggestions and support! It is greatly appreciated :)

[@a777fan]

@@DailyDrivenClasssics nice! Glad it is at least running again. I would still use a voltage drop test on all the sensor wires to confirm that they are still good and not corroded in any way at any of the various junction points in the harness. Being 'low' voltage (~5V or less), the measurement can be greatly influenced by even small increases in resistance. Example: You may 'see' continuity on the wires, but still have issues with the sensor. On my 1995 540/6 I found lots of corrosion hiding under those rubber caps that BMW liked to use on the harness. Remember: For a proper voltage drop test, you need voltage applied to the circuit during the test. Many great examples out here on KZbin University ;)

[@DailyDrivenClasssics]

@a777fan Yes But it starts the same as in this video (sometimes even slower). However it has no idle :;( As soon as I let of the throttle, it instantly dies. But I Get throttle signal on Inpa. Have to do some more fiddling around :( I will also voltage drop test the sensors. ( quick question: If there is no resistance in the wire I'm checking, there should also be no voltage drop. Or am I wrong)

[@alexandrefisterra1720]

@@DailyDrivenClasssics Hi, I Have a 1992 325 td, I built a homemade ads interface but i can't diagnostic with inpa or with DIS Do you have some tip for me. Thanks! and sorry for my english

[@DailyDrivenClasssics]

@alexandrefisterra1720 @alexandrefisterra1720 Hi sorry, but I cant really help you:( I would suggest to check if the INPA installation and setup is done correctly, but otherwise have no tips. Sorry !

[@ThePodunavac]

hi! I have opel omega B 1996" with the same engine m51 (engine tag x25DT). Where can I get an ALDL diagnostic cable and what program is used, where can I find it? I have a connector under the steering wheel with 16 pins, but it is older than the OBD standard.I have a problem, the car is very difficult to start when it is standing for half an hour - an hour after driving. And it loses a lot of power when it's very hot outside. By the way, the car has only 98,000 km, but it has been in the garage for 19 years. Sorry for my bad english... your videos are the best :)

[@DailyDrivenClasssics]

@ThePodunavac @ThePodunavac Hi,Unfortunately I dont know where you can find a diagnostic tool for your omega. If done a bit of googling and found some sites that offer scanner for the m51 variants if I'm right. The hard starting (cranking for 1-4 seconds ) when its warm is because on m51 the lift pump and glow plugs don't work when the engine is started in the hot. If you mean really hard to start I would look into the fuel pump timing that might be off despite the low mileage. I would check live values with a scanner and go from there. And the loss of power when really hot outside ( 35 degrees celsius) is also normal to a certain extent. the air is a lot less dense, and an m51, an old 2 valve indirect injection diesel is really inefficient. Also x25 dt didn't have an intercooler so the issue gets exacerbated. I could feel a large difference between driving at 7 degrees c yesterday and at 30 degrees 2 months ago soi guess it's "normal" to a certain extent. I hope I could help :)

[@daneitor97]

Thank you so much for this video!!!

[@DailyDrivenClasssics]

@daneitor97 glad to hear that :)

[@paddyodoors2757]

Have you tried giving the pump fuel from your own source? It was always the first thing I done, a makeshift tank with feed and return. The vp is great at pumping but not so much at sucking and the case pressure is what drives the timing cylinder. I saw a few times (cant remember if e34) the pump which sends fuel from one side of the tank to the other failing causing low fuel problems below half full. I'm just throwing ideas out.

[@DailyDrivenClasssics]

The e34 just has one giant tank if im not mistaken. The tank is at 3/4 and lift pump works and delivers a fuel quickly to the front. i am working on the car as we speak, unfortunately i am not getting injection angle reading in inpa so i dont know if there is another wiring issue😭

[@erik4121]

got the same tinyADS interface, its so good. but you can just use the cheap 20pin adapter cut it open and solder the wires to it. its a much cleaner option then the bare wires everytime. My inpa also shows weird coolant temp values when the engine is turned off, if i turn it on everything is back to normal. I think its the way its supposed to be. nevertheless i enjoy your videos very much!

[@DailyDrivenClasssics]

@erik4121 Thanks for the tip! I Hope my inpa is just messing with me and the error goes away once the engine is running normally:) And thanks a lot for the nice feedback !

[@erik4121]

@@DailyDrivenClasssics yeah as long as you dont get any new "Fehler" in the "Fehlerspeicher" the temp sensor should be fine.

[@DailyDrivenClasssics]

@erik4121 @erik4121 I had 5 errors related to the short. I tried resetting but they always came back. After the " repair" all errorcodes stayed away. I guess my hack job was successful. Now i just need to find a new connector. The old coolant was so stuck in the connector that i couldn't unpin and reuse it. What a shame :(

[@miracleman9467]

Where can i get the ads interface? Im using software + hardware named 'carsoft', it is so bad and i cannot read live data from it :( thank you and nice progress on the mighty m51

[@erik4121]

@@DailyDrivenClasssics i would search on scrapyards near your, these type of connectors are used in a wide range of 90s bmw. should be possible to find a cheap one there.

[@daneitor97]

Where you got the inpa software? Lowest I can find is ediabas 6.5.3 with inpa 5.0

[@DailyDrivenClasssics]

@daneitor97 Send me a message on instagram :) I'm gonna send you a link for version 3.01

[@daneitor97]

@@DailyDrivenClasssics Done :)

[@heroykenn]

Nice information here. Can you please tell me how I can reed the ecu on my e38 1997 please? Sorry for my English 😅

[@DailyDrivenClasssics]

@heroykenn @heroykenn Post 1996 is easy. You just need a regular laptop. Install INPA and make sure that all software settings are correct with what you find on forums. And then you can scan your e38 with a reguler usb to obd2 adapter and a regular 20 pin to obd2 adapter. Hope this helps :)

[@BadExcuses]

Very nice work! I am facing an issue with my 1995 E39 538i which only has the 20pin connector available. Can you by any means point me to where you got the interface from. Or do you have a circuit diagram? Any help is immensely appreciated. 😊

[@DailyDrivenClasssics]

@BadExcuses @BadExcuses Thanks! I got my interface from extraclassics , but I'm currently negotiating with an electronics producer to produce new boards. I unfortunately don't have electronic diagrams for an e39 but I'm sure you can find some on the internet. Whats the issue on the e39?

[@BadExcuses]

thanks for the hints@@DailyDrivenClasssics - the issue on my E39 is that it went into "Transmission Fault-Mode (Notprogramm)" without any other apparent problems (no weird noise from transmission or anything like that...). It is now neglecting 1st and 2nd gear. Also the starter failed 1 day later after (might be related?!) So I'd like to check for fault-codes before having it towed to a garage as the issue might be simple to fix (depending on what it actually is). My current suscpicion is that the electronics in the mode selector (PNDRS) might be faulty, causing the car to assume that it is in P when it is actually in a gear, which might have caused the starter to go bad...

[@DailyDrivenClasssics]

@BadExcuses @BadExcuses That's sad to hear, but I'm sure you'll get it sorted:) Have you checked the oil level of the automatic box. I've seen a video where the selector rod seal leaked. Maybe a low oil level can cause these issues? Also I don't think that the starter and the transmission issues are related. Just give the starter a few love taps with a hammer and a metal rod, maybe it decides to jump back to life :)

[@BadExcuses]

@@DailyDrivenClasssics Thanks man, I'll give it a shot! Definitely need to check the transmission fluid.

[@BadExcuses]

@@DailyDrivenClasssics Here's a quick update as it might be relevant also to other people: I have replaced the crankshaft-sensor as I have seen that the motor-start problems in this video linked here looked similar to mine. And it fixed it. So in summary the Gearbox was only in "Fault-Mode" because it could not make sense of the faulty values it was getting from the crankshaft. Video here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/jZrJg52Nd7yMnNksi=zMzLkH9WrAn6zNaE

[@BlackJugo]

Please sent the download link for this inpa version

[@BlackJugo]

@@DailyDrivenClasssics send you a message

[@harryspectre2596]

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