Fixing severe front end vibration on W126 replacing the support bracket assembly SD 480p

[@garrettborden107]

I’ve been looking for this solution for months!!! I have the exact same issue!! Thank you!!!

[@straybenzes]

Glad I could help!

[@garrettborden107]

Could you link to all the parts you ordered?

[@straybenzes]

@@garrettborden107 In most cases you need at least this one: www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/1263301135MY.htm?pn=126-330-11-35-MY-INT&SVSVSI=2491&DID=47955 and these two: www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/1263333314A.htm?pn=126-333-33-14-A-INT&SVSVSI=2491&DID=9392 and www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/1263335414.htm?pn=126-333-54-14-M36&SVSVSI=2491&DID=10518

[@livin4today132]

Always enjoy your videos,,well done,,thanks,,

[@straybenzes]

Thanks!

[@grantbellinger7403]

You’re a champion matey

[@straybenzes]

Thanks!

[@LiviuRo1]

Hi Ralf. Where can I buy the rubber part that goes on the end minute 5:35 in the video. Dies it have a part#? Thanks

[@straybenzes]

Hi there. That part comes with the repair kit. Here is an example of one company that sells these: www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/1263301135MY.htm?pn=126-330-11-35-MY-INT&SVSVSI=3343&DID=47955 Good luck!

[@hayest9872]

A1233331565

[@straybenzes]

@@hayest9872 Thanks!

[@straybenzes]

@@hayest9872 Just a quick note on this part. This is very unlikely a part that is the problem on these assemblies. The guide rod wears before this will go bad. It is more cost effective to just get the whole rebuild kit.

[@hayest9872]

@@straybenzes agreed. Unfortunately my kit forgot to include them so I had to order them separately today. I have no idea their purpose but old ones are flat now. Lots of preload on the new.

[@michaelarmellino8334]

Did you use the lemforder big nut/clips the ones that go in the hole in the frame ? I hear they’re an absolute nightmare because they have a high chance of snapping and spinning in the hole and then youre in an abaolute world of pain after.

[@straybenzes]

I have not had any issues with any new sheet metal nut clips. I have had plenty of trouble with getting old ones stuck as the rusty clips come off. Pray penetrant oil, heat, extra long but small vice grips will let you get the bolt out. Otherwise you will need to use a flame wrench to cut it out which to me is the absolute last resort.

[@michaelarmellino8334]

I’m going to pray I ordered a set of guide rods and one I can move the shaft with my hand you think it should be sent back?

[@straybenzes]

@@michaelarmellino8334 That depends on the movement. They must not have any axial play. You can typically turn the rod by hand. On most it is pretty hard to turn which is not a bad sign. Good luck.

[@w124mercedes7]

Hello I just found your channel and like your informative videos so I subscribed. I have a 1987 mercedes 300d w124 I am trying to make like new. If possible I have 2 questions. First.. how do you move or adjust the drivers Center armrest. I cant figure out how to adjust it.. Also with your video on injectors. I rebuilt my injectors and made a big difference in the way it runs. I have some lifter noise I would like to address. Do you have video for lifters. And help or advice would be greatly appreciated. Thank you for your time and videos . ROBERT

[@straybenzes]

Hmm. As far as I know there are only two positions on the arm rest: up or down. On the side of the armrest there is a large black push button that unlocks it from the up to the down position. Is that what you meant? As for the lifter noise that is indeed a frequent complaint. I do not have a video handy for that one as I do not have a 6cyl gas engine E or S class handy. It is fairly straight forward and there are a few MB forum posts that you can Google for the time being. I am sorry that I have not been of too much help to you.

[@unclepeanut8066]

Can you do oil leak video between trans and engine for the 420 sels ?

[@straybenzes]

Yeah, if the opportunity presents itself I will cover this one. Too bad I did not have the equipment ready the last time I took out a tranny to do that job. Thanks!

[@saadalghamdi3203]

Good job pro 👍👍👍👍👍

[@straybenzes]

Glad you liked it.

[@saadalghamdi3203]

@@straybenzes I was happy with that, thank you very much

[@straybenzes]

@@saadalghamdi3203 Thanks!

[@jinnsaab1451]

Dear Sir. My car vibrates above 70 Km/h .if i release accelator or press clutch it continues the same. Please suggest any solution. Tyres are new, alignment perfirmed.

[@straybenzes]

Have you checked the rod assembly as per this video? If that has no play make sure that the rubber bushings in that assembly are still ok. Next I would check that the wheel bearing play is not excessive. Although, any good shop performing an alignment should also check all ball joints for excessive play, there are still a few techs who do not want to mess around these old and rather complex (labor intensive) suspensions. I just got a car back from state inspection and it had a severely worn rod assembly - it should never have passed. The steering tie rods are also a frequent wear item and among the easier replacements. The upper and lower ball joints are usually toast after 150-200k mls. The lower main one is a beast to remove - the usual tools do not work well with that one. Then there are the lower suspension arm bushings. You will need extra heavy duty spring compression tools in order to replace that one and make sure to mark the position of the excenter washer on the main bolt so that goes into the correct place. Pulling that bushing out and pushing that back in is nothing for the faint of heart and you need to eat a good breakfast in order to muscle that back into place. I apologize for there not to be an easy answer, but you will need to investigate piece by piece in order to eliminate that annoying vibration (I cannot stand that either). The best of luck.

[@inovahightechltd]

Thanks Ralf, Tested mine, they still good but I am probably going to change them next summer. How do you like the Lemförder Kit? Have you done your lower ball joints yet? Mine seem to still work, but both sides will need new boots / did you buy the ball joint tool from Baum Tools for this or do you have trick to get them in and out without special tool? Merry Christmas from Kansas, Peter

[@straybenzes]

The aftermarket ones are ok - not of superior quality, but ok. They are easy enough to replace as long as the sheet metal outserts don't tear off. The lower ball joint can be an absolute bear to get out and the new one back in. I usually have to use brute force and a torch to get the old ones out. Since the angle at which you have to drive the new one in is odd you have to either buy or loan the Benz specific drive tool or drive it in. I take the new rubber boot off to make sure I don't damage it during the assembly process. Good luck!

[@inovahightechltd]

@@straybenzes thanks Ralf. I am going to get new boot kit first and see if they are still good and then I will take it from there. Peter

[@straybenzes]

@@inovahightechltd Thumbs up!

[@straybenzes]

@@inovahightechltd Good luck!

[@westhavenor9513]

...and no knuckles were harmed in the making of this video ;)

[@straybenzes]

Well, not quite. This beast of a bracket fought back very hard.

[@MrStroller4u]

Where did you get the kit from???

[@straybenzes]

This kit came from Pelican Parts.

[@MrStroller4u]

@@straybenzes thanks for the info.

[@straybenzes]

@@MrStroller4u you are welcome

[@straybenzes]

@@MrStroller4u you bet

[@kaibrings7026]

Gute Beschreibung

[@straybenzes]

Danke!

[@jinnsaab1451]

Waiting for your reply plz. thanks

[@straybenzes]

Certainly