Fixing your MMU2S Filament Tips

[@robinnguyen4306]

3 weeks with problems. I ordered new BI metal V6 heatbreak and the tips are awesome. THX!!!!

[@ET_AYY_LMAO]

I am sorry to say, but if that is truely an MK3S printer, then this is totally expected. From the MK3S to MK3S+ upgrade kit sales text: "You will need this upgrade in case you are using MK3 and planning to buy the MMU2S." This is a well documented issue with the MMU2S and the MK3S without the + upgrade. I build the MMUs months ago along with an MK3S+ and aside from the usual calibration issues like IR sensors and FINDA sensor alignment I have had little issues. I found out that screws holding PTFE tubes to and from the buffer should not be over tightened. Your experiences with whiskers triggering sensors tells me that you should probably slightly adjust sensors too. Also cleaning out the FINDA should be considered regular maintenance.

[@user-ol9bx7si7w]

Hi Jeff, I think with Bi-Metal Heatbreak the print has also improved overall. What do you think?

[@jeffs3dcorner]

I think it does too. I put the second one in my chiron with a .6 nozzle to check out.Thanks for the idea and the typo is fixed now!

[@user-ol9bx7si7w]

@@jeffs3dcorner I used one of this store. www.3djake.com/bondtech/copperhead-heat-break?sai=9388 It is twice as expensive. What will be the difference in them?

[@jeffs3dcorner]

Oh you bought premium. I just got regular. I would guess mines a clone of yours. Personally I was just interested in the 1.9 bore. The torlon is a bit smaller and gave me problems. This seems like the best solution.