Make USEFUL 3D Prints with THIS List of Hardware

[@thenextlayer]

Thanks, as always, for watching! Let me know if any of these items surprised you below!

[@guy19942]

I never played around with berrings, so that :)

[@solath]

Bearing holder featured at 15:20 - link for the STL please?

[@davidstonier-gibson8408]

The RFID stickers. I'm thinking of buying a Bambu X1C, so I must investigate adapting 3rd party filament rolls to the AMS system. Or is that one for you to do? 🙂

[@joshuajordan4901]

Fr! I want to buy the file for that pedestal that spins!

[@chrismay2298]

Chopping at that rebar with the knockoff dremel and little cut off wheel is comedy gold...

[@Rmstrjim]

@@chrismay2298 the brand new rebar which features zero surface corrosion that was "pulled out of a dumpster", to boot.

[@odw32]

Really amazing content, never thought about NFC! I often design educational models, so being able to link to digital lessons is amazing. Some of my favorites: 1. Aluminum extrusions and threaded/smooth rods aren't just great for printer kits, they're also amazing to enhance weak printed plastic with a bit of a "spine". 2. I also like to use metal (jewelry box) hinges, bowden tube with wire (to transmit motion), and occasionally some wing nuts. 3. I sometimes like to use IKEA for parts, because people worldwide can source a metal "HACKÅS knob" or the textile from a "MAJBRÄKEN pillowcase", and replicate the same design that way.

[@thenextlayer]

These are good ones, for sure. And I love hte idea of you adding educational elements for students thanks to my video. Honored

[@leaschmitt2496]

Hey, what kind of educational models do you make and do you have a link to some place where I can see those? I'm interested in the possibilities of 3d printing for educational purposes

[@oleurgast730]

@@thenextlayer Actually the first coming to mind to use NFC-Chips for: If you have multiple printers with klipper, just put NFC-Chips there. As soon you hold your phone there, the webinterface of this printers fluid site apears... So comfortable, the printers do not even need any display.

[@davidstonier-gibson8408]

Thank you. You reminded me of a colleague from decades ago, a South African electronics guy. He had worked for a company in SA that made ghetto blaster radios (if you are too young to know what that is, google is your friend 🙂 . The Bill of Materials for the ghetto blaster include "House brick, qty 1" I'm a retired electronics engineer. When I retired I started buying components, all cheaply on eBay. I now have a collection of transistors, chips, resistors, Arduino sensor module etc etc that would make some development labs look under-resourced. All, of course, stored in a 3D printed drawer system. There's not much I can't do in the space with my "in stock" range. Once in a while I may get some substandard parts. But I have the skills to test and recognise, and usually correct for it in my designs.

[@SKid_Athor]

Ah. One basic rule is you always have the wrong size of screws or exactly one is missing. ☺️

[@lordllama7815]

😂😂💯

[@themechanicaladvantage]

Johnathan, I enjoy your videos so please allow me to share some of my knowledge in return. Bearing Numbering [Simplified]: Example part number 608-2RS 6 [First number: Bearing Type] = Single Row Deep Groove Ball Bearing 0 [Second number: Dimensional Series Classification] = Diameter Series 0, fD=0.84 8 [Third/Forth number: Bore Series (inner hole)] = 8mm -2RS [Additional Symbols after dash: Auxillary Numbers+Symbols] = 2 Sided Rubber Seals So your 608-2RS bearing is a common radial bearing that uses balls in a groove as the rolling element, with an inner diameter of 8mm, has the most common outer diameter and thickness for a typical 8mm bore bearing, and comes with rubber shields to cover the rolling balls on both sides. Bearing numbering schemes are controlled by the engineering regulatory bodies of the region. In this case ISO. ISO has charts that denote what each number in each position indicate. They are not as simple as 8 means 8mm bore in most cases, which is why they appear random. For the second, third, and forth numbers, they will involve formulas and charts to calculate standard bearing dimensions. I am a practicing engineer and this is the reference document I prefer for identifying ISO symbiology for common bearings. It can assist you with finding the same bearing but with perhaps metal seals instead of rubber: 608-2Z or 608-ZZ www.nsk.com.br/upload/file/nsk_cat_e728g_1.pdf Regards,

[@stevrgrs]

8:10. I’ve been using this for YEARS but it used to only work on android. I would have a sticker in my cars inside door jamb and whenever I changed oil or did any repairs I would tap it and update the info so it was always there ! It was AWESOME :)

[@gloriousapplebees]

Oh I love that idea!

[@Wooden_yeti]

So I am a maker considering adding a 3D printer to my tool lineup. I found your channel in the process of trying to learn more and you give a lot of good info. You answer questions I didnt know I had. You even give inspiration in videos like this that I didnt expect. Thank you for all your work!

[@rudyandriani8717]

Yours is my new favorite FFF/Maker channel! It’s already been a huge help in getting my garage to be a more usable shop space!

[@juandavidruizserna]

thanks for the recomendations, i am just starting my own collection of nuts and bolts, was forgetting washers, my budget is small but slowly i make it grow so i can grow my starting 3dprinting business

[@LostButMakingGoodTime]

This really helps the thought process for practical, useable, creative uses for 3D printing. I am new to the hobby and as I recently remarked to a friend, there are probably 200,000 ready designs available to download, but how many Mandolorian figurines does a guy really need. Give me ideas and designs for things for grown-ups. Things I can’t easily or cheaply find as close as the nearest store. I’ve created a couple of items and already appreciate the process of designing things from scratch. CAD software is a heavy lift at first, but totally worth it. Carry on!

[@akadventurer7563]

With a toddler around the house that helps dad with projects, you might want to Not get fishing sinkers, or old wheel weights for anything... Give it a year or two. Heavy metals and lead poisoning are a Real thing, and it is accumulative in your body... It builds over time and Can Not be removed. when you reach the critical level, thats it. For adults its generally OK, but do be careful, (wash hands, don't eat while working, well ventilate for any melting, etc) but you definetally don't want to have a toddler around that puts things, or their fingers, in their mouth etc...

[@timothy098-b4f]

Lead-based solder fumes can cause problems, and lead dust is hazardous to inhale. But there’s no need to panic about solid chunks of lead like fishing weights; there’s almost no absorption through the skin of metallic lead. It needs to be dissolved in something organic to travel through the skin.

[@stevrgrs]

Neodymium magnets are also SUPER dangerous. They can literally snap together inside a child’s stomach and cause all sorts of horrors :(

[@timothy098-b4f]

Small magnets really are dangerous for kids, but not because they snap together in the stomach. It’s because they can end up in different parts of the intestine, and snap together through the intestinal wall. It causes gangrene and perforation.

[@jeremiahrex]

Steel weights are becoming more of a thing for fishing. More expensive than less but you know, not poison.

[@sahhull]

@@jeremiahrex lead fishing weights were outlawed about 15 years ago in the uk.

[@HowtoDeluxo-y5t]

I just ordered most of what you suggested (minute the fans, thermal switches, and weights because I have that stuff already.) From alliexpress I was able to order an assortment of m2-5 screws, nuts, washers, lock washers, m2-4 heat inserts, 50 nfc tags, a couple hundred magnets (I'm a heavy magnet user), 30 608 bearings, a spring assortment, for around 130 canadian. Given what it would cost to source these all localy, i'm pretty pleased with the price. They'll be here hopefully by the first week of october. Had I ommited the magnets, it would have been under 100 bucks. Thanks for the video, I've been meaning to stock up on hardware because I keep over-paying locally. The list was a helpful place to start and just overcome my analysis paralysis.

[@noelitonoelito]

I recently came across a need to add some weight to a bunch of prints for an event I was throwing. I needed to print a bunch of medals to give to all the guests that were attending. So I asked my family for ALL their pennies. It worked out splendidly. I embedded 14 pennies in each medal with a bit of Elmer's glue to keep them from moving and rattling inside. Just like most tire balancing weights, they are made mostly of zinc and add a surprising amount of weight to the print but it comes out much cheaper.

[@thenextlayer]

That's a good idea! Israel got rid of anything below 10 agurot (our cents), so that doesn't work here so much.

[@scottthroop6208]

Great video! Thank You! A tip for weights: Lead is far heavier than steel, and will take up far less space for the same given weight. Simply visit any fishing tackle shop, sporting goods store, or big box store that sells fishing tackle. Lead fishing sinkers come in weights from 1-1/160z to several pounds. They come in a wide variety of geometric shapes lending many options for 3d printed cavity shapes that are helpful to make clean, solid streamlined designs without rattling or shifting.

[@thenextlayer]

Thanks for the info!

[@bryceg5709]

Fan tip. Corrugated wire loom its normall sold with a split for installing around wiring for chafing but it is available solid nonsplit. Larger fan isolated from printer hung on wall whatever. Use a relay if it has too much draw. But you can flow a ton of air by printing a duct for the fan and pushing the air through this cable loom which moves easily and get the mass off your servo.

[@austinc9153]

You should get an angle grinder; the corded ones are pretty cheap, cutting and grinding wheels are pretty cheap, and for cutting something like 1/2" rebar they're definitely better than wearing out your diamond cutting Dremel wheels on. But great content, you provide a lot of tips most people don't consider

[@sweetasdude]

Other nifty things you can strip out of junk are LEDs, switches, potentiometers and audio jacks. If you have a Daiso near you, they have nifty cheap storage containers if you are yet to go the gridfinity route. Also as always great vid!

[@thenextlayer]

Truth!

[@Baumeister40]

I discovered fishing weights of all sizes at a sporting goods store that focused primarily on fishing and hunting (not ball sports or camping) I needed those weights for my son's pinewood derby car. I also collect fastener hardware, which I have used to weigh down model railroad cars to keep them from jumping the tracks

[@mikkelrasmussen9938]

It would be cool to see a comparison between the different software's. I personally use a combination of: fusion360, blender, mesh mixer and 3D Builder. it would be interesting to see some more about on shape since I have never used it, and I'm very curious to see what it can do and how easy it is to use. Awesome video I really enjoyed it, very helpful.

[@lensineer]

Most of the classic parametric CAD programs are quite similar to use, so just go for it Onshape is great tbh and its also free to use/try. I tried a lot (Soliworks, SolidEdge, Catia, Creo, OnShape,.....) and think the interface is a bit different and things might be called differently but you'll quite quickly learn to use a new one. I feel like "free form programs" like Blender, 3DSMax, Maya, Rhino, Z-Brush are more different in usage between each other.

[@bd9494]

OnShape is fantastic and really under utilized in the maker community

[@evhan]

TeachingTech made a great series about onshape

[@thenextlayer]

Yep, that's what got me into it actually

[@PaulCobbaut]

Upvoted, a software comparison would be nice. I tried several programs and then settled on FreeCAD because of its versatility and its amazing capabilities with Python. I also wonder why this Fusion360 is so popular?

[@JB-NZ]

@The Next Layer, just FYI - the black bolts you have likely are not 'anodised', unless they are made of Aluminium. Anodising is an Aluminium process, not a steel process. You cannot anodise anything iron based. If you have steel or stainless bolts which are black, the term is not anodised, they are just black oxide bolts - which is sometimes called blackening. Just so you know.

[@thenextlayer]

Thanks!

[@capthowdy126]

6x2 6x3 8x2 8x3 and 10x2 and 10x3 are the most common sized magnets i come across while 3d printing. i have pretty much everything u mentioned in the video. with as much stuff as i have an as long as ive been messing with it now i should really start making my own videos like this.

[@hybrispsycho1]

only got into 3d printing last week and im slowly working through your back catalogue. love your videos and some of the ideas they have given me ive only got a weefun tina 2 s but already ordered a new neptune 4 plus so cant wait to try some of the larger builds

[@thenextlayer]

Awesome! Thank you! Welcome

[@VastCNC]

Side benefit of disassembly of things to harvest components is that it allows for better recycling of the pieces you don't keep.

[@thenextlayer]

True too!

[@jaredemerson1485]

I'm new to the realm of 3D printing and want to use it as a tool to solve some of the mundane problems I complain about or put up with. Already have a decent background in hobby electronics, so I should be unstoppable with all this info 😎 ....that is once I finally cave and learn how to use a decent CAD/modeling too for custom designs 😅 Please keep it up with the awesome content man!

[@nahkanukke]

The amount off information that there is for 3d printing is crushing me. Thanks for this tight video.

[@thenextlayer]

Glad it was helpful!

[@capthowdy126]

always having to cut my bolts to length, so ive started buying longer assorted packs along with the ones with shorter ones an they save me over all the time. an i always thought the zz rs at the end of a bearing number was to identify the tolerances they was made to but i could be way off on that an they have another way of identifying that. the biggest thing that helped bring my prints to a higher quality was me buying a lathe an a small benchtop milling machine, now i make metal parts to go along with the 3d printed parts an it introduced me to a new set of tools that have made my life 100% easier. if u do alot of cutting i used to use my dremel or if the dremel wasn't enough a angle grinder with a cut off wheel so pretty much just a bigger dremel but pick up a portable bandsaw, best money ive spent, saved me so many hours in cutting steel with a hacksaw, i had one piece that i had probably cut on for at least 2 hours straight, was out of blades so was stuck with the last one i had an after about 2 hours of it i just gave up went on amazon an ordered the cheapest portable bandsaw i could get 100 bux wasn't expecting much but its the best money ive spent an the cheap tool is actually pretty good an isn't the only wen branded tool i own an the brand i suggest if wanting to buy cheap but the fact i incorporated metal parts when i can that has help with the look an feel of the stuff i make an makes it feel an look more professionally manufactured.

[@motvzyl]

very cool video. Something that stood out is the spring section, you can buy piano wire and 3D print a spring maker and the use the piano wire to make your own springs, any size.

[@thenextlayer]

Thanks for the tips! I had no idea, but I'm totally going to do that!

[@robinbennett5994]

It's surprisingly easy to make your own springs, and an assortment of few lengths of different size spring steel wire are pretty cheap. I'll bet there are some cool 3d printed spring winding tools that would make a good video.

[@thenextlayer]

Teach me?!

[@delsydsoftware]

One of the best sources I've found for assorted springs is American Science and Surplus' spring assortment for around $6. Their Electro-mechanical mystery boxes can be a good source for random parts as well, although that can be a bit of a gamble.

[@hot_wheelz]

@thenextlayer the better way to say "insert them evenly and straightly" would be "insert them, straight and even". Just a small point but things like this help a script to be delivered smoothly. All said, this was a great video, and I absolutely agree on your choices for essential hardware.

[@Mu-podcast]

I have a recommendation that is similar to your idea of saving old screws and metal pieces for weight. I keep a medication bottle (the locking cap is good for safety) with all of my used x-acto, scalpel, and razor blades. They may be well past their usefulness as cutting implements, but they work wonderfully with items that need a metal point for a magnet to catch to. No space in a lid for another magnet on the other side? A scalpel blade is good steel, very slim, and easily covered over with a thin piece of polystyrene plastic or other surfacing material. I build models, so I have lots of styrene sheets around. Hope this is useful to someone.

[@thenextlayer]

Clever!

[@mrspart5548]

if you live in canada they sell bulk assorted springs at princess auto 101 random springs for like $13. i bought one of their dual sided organizers and proceeded to sort what was far more then 101 springs per pack and all assorted.

[@josiahrice6810]

Another idea for weights. BB gun BBs can be useful and like fishing weights can be found at most any Walmart, Academy and most farm supply stores also bulk nuts and washers or nails from the home improvement stores like Lowes or Home Depot can be fairly economical in a pinch.

[@bengillday1415]

Rule number #1. Better looking at it then looking for it.

[@Sembazuru]

Another thing about T-Nuts. The ones that you showed are the "hammerhead" style that allow you to insert them into an extrusion slot without access to the ends of the slot. I'm not sure why they are called "hammerhead", but regular t-nuts don't have the radiuses on opposite corners allowing the t-nut to turn after inserting to engage with the undercut of the t-slot.

[@BrianMeeks]

I've been watching your videos for a few days now. You do a FANTASTIC job. This one was especially helpful to me, as I'm new to the world of 3D printing. Thanks.

[@thenextlayer]

Awesome, thank you!

[@xLopez210x]

I’m so happy i found this video and that you made it. You have listed all the parts i can NEVER find. Thank you

[@thenextlayer]

Nice! Enjoy!

[@Sembazuru]

Terminology matters, especially when ordering hardware where you can't physically hold the part before ordering (because sometimes catalogs (both paper and online) have the wrong pictures). At 4:22 the machine screws that you show aren't flat-heads. They are "cap head", and if you want flush mounting you need to use a "counterbore", but don't require flush mounting. The cone-shape you mention are (usually) flat head, and always require a "countersink"ed hole or washer. Though, depending on the design of the countersunk washer, it may be able to be used to fit a flathead screw into a counterbored hole. Now, your hardware names and terms may be different in Israel (I wouldn't know), but my explanation is correct for the US.

[@thenextlayer]

Thanks for the corrections.

[@lmaoroflcopter]

I think this is literally the only video that goes into this. My recommendation for weight would be a roll/offcut of lead flashing. Its soft, cuttable with some steel scissors, and can be layered up and moulded into a 3d printed part. Downside - it is lead and lead toxicity is a thing so internally in something functional for use by an adult - that's fine but you dont want it in a kids toy for example.

[@Tome4kkkk]

24:10 A tip from me. Use the mini grinder as a balast and get a hacksaw instead with a pack of 14 TPI blades :D

[@sierraecho884]

In regards to weights. When using sand you can mix either glue with it or you can put in in a plastic bag.

[@H0mework]

Thanks for the list! This is a great video. You mentioned you aren’t good at programming, you might want to look at the arduino sensor kit, I don’t think most of them are good or useful, but there might be something there. You don’t need the arduino for many of them, the hall sensor or the reed sensor are two sensors you might really like; they can trigger without programming.

[@lornelorne5727]

Thank you for this. It's super helpful and convenient to be spoonfed a specific shopping list. I'll be buying all of these.

[@leeratliff7588]

I keep friction-fit spring-loaded ball detents on hand for durable latches. I think it would also be great to embed metal hinges in 3D printed containers, but I haven’t tried it yet. They make some cylindrical invisible hinges for woodworking that might work great for 3D printing.

[@thenextlayer]

Wait what? What are those? Link me

[@ronanh13]

this is the video i was looking for, i ordered most of that list off amazon

[@donmilleriii7399]

Thanks for the video! Having the metal bits will really make for useful stuff

[@GritCityENG]

Thank you for the awesome list of hardware, having it all in once place was a great touch! Cheers!

[@rafyreyes3797]

great video!I loved it! If you could make one about electronics you use kinda like the fan that would be cool too!

[@manuelpadua2113]

For the magnets thingiverse has a pen like organizer that can hold and place magnets in the hole. Harbor frieght has assortment springs both pull and push for cheap.

[@geezlix]

Would love to see a video on your preferred Slicer and slicer settings. Thanks!

[@thenextlayer]

Noted! If I get enough requests I'll do it! I DO have a video planned called "10 slicer settings you never knew existed" - so that's pretty close

[@wayne6318]

Thanks for the insight you've given, has made a lot of sense to me and as a "newbie" to this, even at the age of 66. I would love to see you do a video on the comparing the free design software as I have no clue and this would be of a great benefit for me, possibly others who are like me, beginners

[@thenextlayer]

I’m on it… sometime!

[@couryrussell7653]

Mind blown with the NFC chips!! I’m definitely going to be checking those out! So dope!

[@imadethis9949]

Home Depot sells assorted spring kits! I’ve been using them for years and they aren’t all standard sizes but there’s usually one that fits the job

[@thenextlayer]

I wish we had Home Depot here...

[@iAssassinExe]

I would definitely appreciate a video on different 3d design software, and furthermore, tutorials on how to use them. So far I've been getting by with Tinkercad, but it feels like it's limiting for even slightly more complex models. PS, I recently found your channel and have been loving the content. Thank you!

[@stevrgrs]

Onshape Onshape Onshape ! Oh and did I say Onshape? 😂

[@eliasbinde2629]

You can get fishing weights at fishing shops. I’ve even seen some sell them in bulk.

[@olegvelichko1659]

Great content, thanks for the tips! Also... don't say you're impatient if you're cutting rebar with a dremel. Now THAT takes patience. :)

[@arbjful]

Square nuts are very useful for 3d printed parts, especially when the insertion is towards the side of the nut

[@kensmith5694]

I am also going to suggest keeping some nylon stop nuts on hand. I just did a design where something hand to be held together but not tightly. The bolt with a nylon stop nut served as a friction pivot

[@deathcube2006]

M5 tnuts are also widely used. And the roll-in t spring nuts are much better and easier to use, altought more expensive. Also it's a good idea to keep some dowel pins around and steel rods of various sizes and diameters

[@johnmcmahon5526]

Yea I’ve only ever used m5. I thought that was the standard for 20x style extrusions

[@Ikel_wood]

I want to actually become skilled and make my own 3d prints... But I'm apparently not very smart- so I'd consume a video about what you use and what you use them for.

[@machineheadminot]

In regards to weights... Im a welder by trade and can say that most weld shops have scrap bins with metal. Also that, if theyre anything like me, we already sort salvage so everything that ends up in that end bin is for sure not useful to us anymore.

[@johnguynn5212]

I've been using Onshape for designing things but I'd certainly welcome a comparison and/or tutorial video for other design solutions.

[@thenextlayer]

If you're good at onshape you probably don't need Blender, except for Organic stuff

[@johnguynn5212]

@@thenextlayer I'm not sure I'd say I'm good at onshape...sorta functional, maybe. Organic stuff could be fun too. 😁

[@KZD250]

I like how this video pops up right after I ordered all sorts of hardware

[@leafnode]

Awesome list! Fortunately I have most of those things at my stash, but it gave me some "pre-order" ideas :) Also, idea for business: refill sets for 3D printers (like, 3d-printing people, not the actual printers ;) )

[@ImSoMagic]

Wow thank you, I was waiting for this kind of info/video to help me know what to buy!

[@m97120]

The threaded inserts you showed are actually for injection molding. They don't hold as well as the ones specifically made for heat-set insertion (like the ones from CNC Kitchen).

[@lajoyalobos2009]

You can use music wire to make your own springs, even 3D print a jig to wind the wire around and have your own, custom spring.

[@thenextlayer]

Wow didn’t know that thanks for sharing! I’m gonna try it.

[@raugust6786]

There's a few times while looking at a print halfway done that if the infill is spaced out enough, one could drop in weights or whatever while it's printing and they'd be secured inside.

[@thenextlayer]

Yep, but they rattle unless you glue them :)

[@tavarisjones551]

The black bolts are not typically anondized. It is a black oxide coating that will eventually rust. So while I like the look of black oxide, I'll take the durability of stainless steel.

[@hughessay1372]

Correct. Aluminum can be anodized, either dyed or clear since the process converts the surface to aluminum oxide. Steel nuts and bolts with the black oxide surface treatment shouldn't be used in any corrosive (i.e. outside or wet) environment.

[@thenextlayer]

🙏

[@matthew164]

Yeah that's right, but flying Drones I still prefer those lighter bolts then the steel ones

[@edwinbarton2285]

I've found assortment packs of springs locally at my local Menards Home Improvement center, and at my local Harbor Freight tool store, I don't honestly remember how expensive either was but I'm pretty sure they were both under $20US.

[@Tennouseijin]

Idea: print D&D miniatures and use NFC labels to open their stats. As for weights, I inherited some old weights from a balance scale, which makes me wonder if one could find such weights on a yard sale for example. Though I suppose many other yard sale items could serve the same purpose.

[@Martarts]

I'd love a video on design software! I find myself struggling with Autocad, Fusion 360, and Solidworks but need FAR more complexity than Tinkercad etc. I like Matter Control but it also isn't quite feature filled enough

[@thenextlayer]

Check out OnShape, Michael at TeachingTech has a training series on it. I'm learning it, and it's damn good and quite easy

[@WyvernDotRed]

14:25 sounds very interesting, but would appreciate a larger list. A few years ago I used Fusion360, but as my self-built low-end hardware was failing me along with moving to Linux for personal usage, I left the hobby behind for a few years. Now I am getting back into 3D printing, hence I found your channel and the software I have picked this time around is FreeCAD. Which has some weird quirks and strange design choices that make it tricky to get going with it, but after figuring those out, so far I am impressed with what FreeCAD lets me do. I will only receive my new printer halfway January, but I have great plans for rebuilding my old Hypercube printer and making some other mechanisms, which I think I can achieve in FreeCAD by slowly getting more familiar with it and continuing my ability built in Fusion360.

[@barakrl]

Dude. המוזיקה של הלוגו נשמעת כמו ההתראה של האפליקציה של פיקוד העורף. עשית לי התקף לב. 😂

[@felderup]

the springs, i've used pen springs as replacements for rusted out springs in old fashioned mortise lock sets. unless they're abused those sets will last centuries, but the springs will rust to dust.

[@cmcferin]

Thank you so much for listening to us an producing this video. Your content is getting better and better and I am really happy with all the great tips and tricks you are sharing. If you do decide to do a 3d Design video what would be really helpful is resources for tutorials. Fusion and others change interfaces that it seems difficult to stay up to date on changes so any tips there on how to keep your knowledge relevant when you are not using the design tools day in and day out would be super helpful. Thanks again and awesome work!

[@thenextlayer]

Thanks for the great feedback. Wait till you see what’s coming. All new lights, lenses, and cameras…. Gonna be epic

[@bc4yt]

Awesome. I'd suggest some wire or small metal rods to fuse into prints that need a lot of added strength. This was a really great list though, eBay here I come 😂

[@thenextlayer]

Def! My 3D printed Micro Jib (designed by Mechanistic) used 7mm diameter and 2mm diameter metal rods, and I have a bunch left over I'm using :)

[@bc4yt]

@@thenextlayer amazon?

[@TS_Mind_Swept]

Definitely some good suggestions here, will look into getting some of these in the future

[@fjrevoredo]

one of the best videos of the channel

[@jammychap]

For info....... ZZ means it has twin metal shields and 2RS is two rubber shields.

[@thenextlayer]

NICE. Thanks for the edification.

[@ProjectDefi]

great video. i have been looking for something like exactly like this. i live in a 3rd world country and have had to pay upwards of 700$ for shipping before. so this will help me so much. im new to 3d printing

[@axelSixtySix]

Hi there, most of the brass instert you show in your video are pressure inserts, not heat inserts. Heat inserts have the double alternate hellicoil on their cylindrical side. About bearings : Z means metal seal at a side and ZZ means you get metal seal on both sides. 2RS means polymer sealing on both sides. About adding weight you can't beat sand in zip bags.

[@thenextlayer]

Oh, snap! I had no idea. Thanks for the education. I need to buy some better ones from Stefan ;)

[@thenextlayer]

Oh, and thanks for the explanation!

[@axelSixtySix]

@@thenextlayer Stefan's are the good ones. Much expensive than at other places but that's mostly Chanel support, right ?

[@BloodSteyn]

I just put in an order for 2 more 3510 fans, just so I can have a couple spare for my new H2 V2S Extruder, just because they aren't a standard one used often and spares are few and far between.

[@warrenwiz5]

Couple of minor tweaks and clarifications: Cone headed bolts = flat head cap screws (typically), round head bolts = sockhet head cap screw bolts (typically), 'black anodized color bolts' = likely black oxide steel bolts. Very unlikely that you bought aluminum black anodized bolts - most bolting hardware is steel or stainless, with a very small chance that you bought the less capable (though admittedly lighter) aluminum hardware.

[@charleselkins4546]

Just what I was looking for concerning inserts. Thanks.

[@thenextlayer]

Glad I could help!

[@DEtchells]

This was just fantastically useful, *especially* since you included links to everything! Great work, your channel is starting out great!

[@thenextlayer]

Thank you!!

[@Verge513]

zz means metal shielded, rs means rubber sealed. zz isnt sealed but allows faster operation with less drag and heat but will still alot junk to get in them, rs is more of a slower speed in dirtier enviorments

[@futrellgarage9153]

Another yes for the software comparison video

[@GadgetReviewVideos]

I like the metal inserts but these days I see more and more self tapping screws. This would fit in more wholes if you only had a few diameter sizes and no need for a soldering iron. I the whole it to small a quick drill to widen it and then the self tap screw that’s slightly wider to thread in.

[@samuelcuellar6598]

Great Video!, I am starting in the 3d printing world

[@bryceg5709]

Lead shot for loading shot shells.... its just super heavy. Pour it in then pour plasticoat on top to seal the lead.

[@bwselectronic]

If I remember correctly, the wheel weights are made of lead. Give it a try at getting them, but I'm guessing they save them and then sell or trade the in to their weight supplier or a scrap metal company.

[@spray_cheese]

You can also collect lead wheel weights from a scrap yard👍 they pop off really easy especially when you have zero care for the car😂👍

[@Wooden_yeti]

Do you have a link to purchase the plans for that rotating base you showed in the bearings segment? I engrave and that paired with the fractal vise would be amazing for that.

[@Mathoose]

It would be so cool to see you work in either blender or onshape. I’ve only used those apps maybe 5 times combined

[@Beecher_Dikov]

I'm learning to use Fusion 360.... it's...daunting. I feel like I'm close to being able to create something useful. So far I've gotten the equivalent of an ashtray....

[@GMCSierraowner]

I’d like to see a video on the different types of filaments and what they are good for

[@thenextlayer]

Oooh, great idea, I'll likely do that

[@ashleycullen.933]

Always by from local hardware stores especially independently owned. Your miss them when they are gone.

[@theglowcloud2215]

23:45 ah, the Ol' Tetanus Bin, just like grandpa used to have

[@smellycat249]

This is a great video. You won’t make it through that piece of rebar with that dremel any day soon but great advice everywhere else. I subscribed.

[@thenextlayer]

Lol thanks!