Flame Straightening Loader Arms To Perfection! - Case 1840 Restoration

[@AlwaysBored123]

Man you would die if you had to rebuild my skidsteer. It's last life was in demolition and there's hardly a bit of straight metal left on it lol. It's very interesting to see flame straightening performed in a regular workshop though. That's something I've always wanted to try but never had a good reason to.

[@MikefromMissouri]

Sounds like it’s had a hard life for sure. Thanks for watching

[@filobeto1691]

Mike when using the cutting attachment on your torch the oxygen valve should be opened all the way on the handle. Then use the mixing valve on the torch head to adjust the flame. For heat work you are better served using an heating attachment, often called an ‘rosebud’ instead of a cutting head. A rosebud produces much more btu’s. For localized heating you want to bring the steel up to temp quickly. I like a #8 heating attachment for steel work.

[@marionstorm9004]

I understand your principal. Let me point out one thing. It appears that you are supporting both arms with one stand under the back arm. The arm you were straightening is "hanging" unsupported from the front crossbeam which ties both arms together. The loader arm will sag from gravity some few thousandths of an inch which could throw off you measurements. I was a Case Salesman for a dozen or so years in Columbia, MO when the 1840 was being sold new. When evaluating trade-in machines, I would never worry about a slight bend in that part of the arm. What I would be looking for (and be concerned about) would be a "twist" in the arms that caused one side of the bucket to be higher or lower. I always wanted the bucket cutting edge to be flat on a level surface. Tire pressure differences from side to side (especially in the back) can knock the levelness of the 60" cutting edge by more than an inch. An operator would always be most concerned about a level edge. Especially when cleaning up dirt or gravel off a concrete or asphalt surface. While you're rebuilding your 1840, be sure to check your chain cases and keep the case adjusted correctly. Too much slack in the chains prematurely wears chains and sprockets. I would recommend spending time on the lower arm to coupler bushings and pins and the latch pins attaching the bucket to the coupler. A machine that is tight (especially there) is much more enjoyable to run and cut grade with. When I looked at used machines, I always noticed how the owner had taken care in those areas and valued their trade accordingly. Enjoy your 1840. It was my favorite skidsteer to sell in it's size class. It had way more power than a Bobcat 743 or 753. It essentially had the same engine as the larger 1845 skidsteer and also the Case 480E and 580E backhoes.

[@MikefromMissouri]

Hi Marionstorm, thanks for the detailed reply. I agree with your comments regarding the sag from the weight of the loader arms. I will change how I have it supported and make one last measurement before I consider it "perfect" . Its interesting to hear about your time as a Case salesmen. My machine definitely did not have any twist or unevenness to the bucket but a fair amount of slop which you know I am correcting. I knew I wanted the 1840 or 1845C because I didn't want to spend all this time rebuilding a skid unless it was on one that was worth the effort. Thanks for watching!

[@motorheadproductions865]

Can the beam being in a cantilever state really cause it to sag a few thousands of an inch? The metal does look to be pretty thick gauged and not to far extended out

[@tonypaul2987]

Sir I am a perfectionist but you are worse than me. Great job.

[@MikefromMissouri]

😂 probably !! Haha