Flat Head Chrysler Valve Clearance Check

[@stanmartin61]

Thanks! This was very helpful as I am adjusting the valves hot for the first time on my ‘48 Chrysler six.

[@a075923]

Thank you for posting these videos, great for guys new to Plymouth flatheads!!

[@keithsgarage5831]

Glad you like them!

[@OldCrowsClassicCars]

Finally a decent video on how to adjust side valves without removing the cylinder head

[@keithsgarage5831]

On these flat head engines, I don't believe there is any need to pull the head to adjust valves. Unless you want to check for valve seat seal-ability. Kersosene works great to check if they are sealing when closed.

[@OldCrowsClassicCars]

@@keithsgarage5831 yes without pulling the head. Most videos out there show valve adjustment with engine rebuild so without the head. The manual also gives you that option. But the easiest way is removing the side covers and adjusting the valves from there, engine can be cold or hot, although the clearances will change.

[@OldCrowsClassicCars]

@@keithsgarage5831 Yes, no need to remove the head. How does that kerosene test work? I've never heard of it.

[@keithsgarage5831]

Old Crow's Classic Cars : Kerosene is used to check for valve sealing. Remove both manifolds. Head off. Ensure piston is at TDC. Both valves are close at this point. Use a syringe or turkey baster, teaspoon, whatever. Pour some kerosene around valve edges. Look through valve ports, bottom side of valve. A good valve seal will not allow kerosene to pass through to bottom. If leaking, try lapping valve, or perform valve grind, followed by lap. Repeat for all 6 cylinders.

[@bradfordeaton6558]

Nice looking car.

[@JDawghasaTruck]

Great job!

[@keithsgarage5831]

Thanks. It was a very rewarding enjoyable task.

[@pnwoods]

Thank you for this video. If still reading comments, advice/opinion on my situation if you please. .. circumstances constrict my ability to adjust these valves hot. ... too lengthy to explain, here. An old Motor Manual suggests a +.002 wider feeler gauge if unable to adjust valves hot. Any experience/opinion on your end as to the viability of this adjustment? ... Will ask a local mechanic, but, unsure of his experience with in block valves. ..... Beautiful car, btw.

[@keithsgarage5831]

Hi, at the time of this writing, I have not personally set the valves cold with an additional .002" clearance. I have heard from several other experienced old Mopar guys that this is acceptable. Should be fine.

[@johnmccann3964]

Nice work Keith, thanks for posting this! Worden18

[@1960tpk]

How do you determine which is intake or exhaust? Is there a diagram on internet? Thanks

[@keithsgarage5831]

There are a couple of ways. Look at the intake and exhaust manifolds and you can see the order. A manual is a good idea, and will be identified in there. Starting at the very front and working back my engine is: E, I, I, E, E, I, I, E, E, I, I , E.

[@ericbenttech2234]

yes but what am I wrenching?

[@WaheedAbdurahman]

I'm switching from a composite to a copper head gasket on my 218 flathead 6. I see u used no sealant. Did this work out fine or should I use copper gasket sealant?

[@keithsgarage5831]

I used copper spray on my new head gasket in my 265 Chrysler. Problem. I decided to try nothing on my Plymouth engine head gasket. Just the plain gasket. No issues at all so far. Seems to have sealed up just fine.

[@odinjensen9557]

Hi, can you tell me is this also the method on a 1949 dogde 230 flathead?

[@keithsgarage5831]

Yes. Intake is .008 exhaust .010 on the ‘49 Dodge.

[@wiboater4]

You mentioned you adjusted cold first. Did you have them set at .008 intake and .010 exhaust on the cold adjustment? or did you allow a little extra for heat expansion? Were your intakes still ok warm? You said just some of your exhaust were tight with a warm engine?

[@keithsgarage5831]

Initially I set them at .008 intake, 0.010 exhaust when cold. Then I warmed up the car, by going for a drive, to operating temp. Then I inserted feeler gauges at all valves with the engine hot & running. I made my final adjustments by shutting off the engine, adjusting, then firing it back up to check again with feeler gauge. Mopar books tell you to set valve clearances when the engine is hot. This is to ensure valvetrain parts have already expanded, due to heat. The valves do not all run at the same temps. This is why final adjustment should be done when the engine is hot. The test to check with engine running with feeler gauge is really about developing a feel for how the feeler gauge fits in the gap, or not. For example if an exhaust valve is set at .009, the 0.010 feeler gauge will not go in the gap while engine is running. If it is set at .011 or .012 you may hear a tapping noise diminish when the feeler is inserted into the gap. When the clearances are set just right, the feeler will tug it's self inward into the gap, each time the valve opens and closes.

[@larryg.9187]

Maybe you know, or maybe not... But having just bought a '53 Dodge Regent yesterday... The guy told me, it had the larger motor, he said a 230 ci... But, was lucky to have the glove box owners manual... It said, Dodge offered two sizes of motors in the six cylinder... A 218 and a 241 ... But, typing in 241 on YT, gets a 241 Hemi ... So now I'm totally confused... As in this repair shop manual, it says 230 ci ... LOL ... It is a Canadian made Dodge... And the owners manual is too... So, any feedback ? BTW, it came with an engine gasket set, in the plastic...plus two additional copper head gaskets, in their wrappers... Rebuilt carb, within a month, less than one year old battery, and a new fuel pump... Darn near flawless interior and exterior... No rust or holes in the floorboards or trunk... All glass, crack free and functional... I'm stoked, as I traded a Willy's CJ with a broken transfer case, for this running and driving car... Best regards ...

[@keithsgarage5831]

Grab a measuring tape. Is your block length about 23” or 25” in length? Likely 25” if your car was Canadian built. 25” long Canadian blocks were available from 218 ci, all the way up to 265 ci. They did this mainly by varying stroke length. The 218 and the 228 ci have 3,⅜” bore. The 237, 251 and 265 ci engines had 3 7/16” bore.

[@larryg.9187]

... Turns out, my block is 25.5" ... And have tested both dry & wet compression test... And figured, because the compression only went up 15 lbs, that a valve adjustment is due... You say .008 & .010 ... The book says .010 on both... But also says warm operating temperature... Jezzzz, any feedback on adjusting them cold, and not running?... Like perhaps at .007 or .008, because heat expands things, and a slightly tighter, cold adjustment, might open the one or two thousands, when warm, to the correct gap ?

[@keithsgarage5831]

I am not near my reference material. From memory, I think a 25.5” length block, Canadian Dodge Regent probably has a 2 ⅜” bore. Netting 226 ci. On a cold engine, adding .002” to spec tappet clearances will be fine. I’d do 010” intake and .012” exhaust when cold, on your engine.

[@larryg.9187]

@@keithsgarage5831 Thank you for your valuable insight... I see, I was subtracting from the operating temperature dimension, when I should have been adding that .002", to set them cold ..! ... Yes, I don't need broken valves ... Best regards...!