Flat Tappet Cam Failure Examples and WHY - LIVE!

Lets talk about the three videos we did on flat tappet cam failures because there is a LOT of confusion on the topic. If you haven't watched the videos in this series I'd highly suggest watching them before the livestream. Will make the things we cover much easier to understand.
Cam Failure Series - • Camshaft Failure Series
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[@MuscleCarSolutions]

Thanks again for all the great questions. One of the better live streams we've done and it was all because of you all! Thanks for stopping by and I hope all t he information we covered will help you have a successful flat tappet cam break in!

[@pacbrian3809]

ridiculous amount of good information no one talks about lifter bores its easier to blame someone else then figuring out why some thing bad happened

[@VinoRatRodbuilds]

Just finished the show, a lot of great info. 👍

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

Thank you sir!

[@JohnDoe-pv2iu]

I actually understand the people who say they didn't do break-in 30 years ago... Maybe that's why they are still having failures! In the 1980s I used a number of Comp Cams grinds and a few generic Cams from PAW. I didn't have any flat hydraulic cam failures. I followed the break in that was recommended back then. 30 minutes over 3500... Ya'll Take care, John

[@9ijnht5rdx]

If you had the money , maybe use a set of break-in heads.

[@yurimodin7333]

Thanks for the tip on not running thick oil on roller lifters(I learn something everytime I watch your channel)........Anyway my question is I have a 1975 Lincoln with a 460 and the factory flat tappet cam. I bought some Castrol GTX "Classic" with high zinc built in......I figured I want to feed her the good stuff until I throw a retrofit roller or Comp DLC (once its availible for BBF) in it someday. The main concern I have is they only make it in 20w-50 I am normally a 10w-30 guy. Anyway is 20w-50 safe to run while it still has the flat tappet cam?

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

If that engine has been together awhile, you might be ok with the thicker oil. I’ve heard some good things about that new castrol oil (from Lake). Kind of a guess really. Watch oil pressure and listen to how it sounds. Without tearing it down and measuring bearing clearances, I’m not sure these much that you can do. I’d be more inclined to run a 10w40 in an older worn engine. Try it out and see if it likes it. Thank you!!

[@yurimodin7333]

@@MuscleCarSolutions I'm guessing that I am looking for excessive pressure and listening for valvetrain rattle if there is a problem.

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

@@yurimodin7333 for sure they’ll be noisy! Yes on the pressure being higher than normal. How many miles on the engine?

[@mustangmadness2619]

I hear you loud annd clear

[@bradvall9416]

Who sells the break in springs? Also, thanks for shring your info.

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

Contact the cam company and they’ll usually be able to match up a spring for your head, cam and installed height that will get the pressures down.

[@dos0711]

So far I have 200 miles on my DLC lifters and for now all is well.

[@crash1769]

just subscribed to Lake Speed Juniors channel. Its called "The Motor Oil Geek"

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

Yup. We talk about it frequently and even had an interview with Lake earlier this year. You won’t get any better info on oil, surface finish and piston rings from anyone else.

[@dos0711]

Any thoughts on Lucas Break-In and Lucas Classic Car Oils?

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

I’m quite sure Lucas products are ok. Driven formulated the first specific break in oils so I’ve always looked to them first. Driven is also the only performance oil that’s made from the old Kendal oil refinery in Pennsylvania. Everything else is second to that base oil.

[@garyw6404]

Hi from Australia

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

Cheers!

[@garyw6404]

@@MuscleCarSolutions came across your vids by accident last night a bit late to the party. I found some great information thankyou. My interest was with cams and lifters as I had a fail myself and just had my motor rebuilt ( using BTR redhot) products in my L77 VFS1. Bringing it to a 353.3rkw I donr plan to go further thou .

[@apachebill]

If the lobe taper is correct on the cam and the crown is correct on the lifter, they’ll run in under full load. Trying to “on the job machine/mate” your surfaces under light load hoping that it will “find a way” and somehow survive under pressure later is the definition of folly. If you have checked and measured your sh*T and assembled it correctly it will run, full bore from the get go, Dump VR1 in them. Run them in for a few minutes. Wack the throttle a few times and ship em. Never wiped a cam in 42 years. It’s all in checking and not using junk parts, of which 95% are just that. Chi-com made, Consumer crap. 😉