Flush Coolant on a 99-04 Jeep Grand Cherokee

This video would also be helpful for anyone that has a 4.7 Liter V8 Dodge Jeep Mitsubishi. How to properly drain the radiator and engine block.
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#martinbuilt #jeepgrandcherokee

[@joelafleur6423]

That was a very thorough coolant flush. For my Grand cherokee I drain the radiator, pop the hoses off, and hose off the reservoir. Then fill it 70/30. Once every summer. And you're correct Zerex G-05 is the right stuff even for the jeeps with the 4.0 inline 6. I like your videos keep em comming! And Boss Jeep you got!

[@Logan-de3xx]

I’m so grateful for all your videos on this WJ. Best reference ever, thank you!

[@martinbuilt]

Thank you. I really appreciate that i'm glad you liked them and find them helpful.

[@user-xz9st8hm1n]

i remember you. you taught me how to do my brakes. now im learning how to flush the coolant. thanks!!!

[@samyz1660]

Thank you so much. Very thorough and excellent camera angles footage. Clear and cristal.

[@martinbuilt]

I am glad you liked it.😎👍

[@samyz1660]

Hey Martin , when you filled out the engine with the new coolant and fired up the engine to bleed the air , did you turn the heater on ?

[@gittyupalice96]

I have never used anything BUT tap water. lol. ( cast iron block, with iron heads w/Siamese cylinders. ) So I'm glad yourself and D&E Garage have pointed out the need to use distilled water and H.O.A.T. Coolant. I guess I'll have to change my ways.

[@martinbuilt]

I got a video coming soon that shows what tap water can do to aluminum.

[@lanedexter6303]

Martin, I did it pretty much as you said (even added the vent enhancement from your other video), full drain, fill with distilled water, run 20 min. or so, drain at all points, pull heater hose (I pulled both) and flush with water, then install new coolant.. I am old, slow, and had an epic battle with that plug on the engine (exhaust mods that came with the 5-1/2” suspension may have made it harder to reach, even with stock manifolds). When I finally got that plug out, I got two drops, nothing at all the second time. Very little from thermostat housing, both times. Comparing elevations of the various points, I suspect the radiator drain would do pretty well, if given enough time. HOWEVER: when I started adding new orange coolant, the first fluid out of the vent was green despite the water flush, and it took time to go orange, so drainage wasn’t perfect. Note: I do not pre-mix. I learn volume of system, decide how much antifreeze I want, then add it first. One can never be certain how much distilled water will fit afterward. It takes a LONG time before that vent stops showing bubbles.

[@martinbuilt]

When you pulled the plug on the side of the engine block and you said you only got 2 drops I would suspect there were sediments blocking that port. And that's why you got so much green antifreeze coming out of the Bleeder hole. Yes it takes a long time for the bubbles to stop coming out that's why it is very important to purge the air.

[@lanedexter6303]

@@martinbuilt thanks. I did blow it out with air, but maybe it needs more.

[@nathanchaknis5327]

Hey Martin, appreciate all your time and effort put into these videos, we need more people like you. Recently drained all my coolant and re-added coolant at the radiator cap like you did, however it became full before coolant came out of the hex bleed screw where the other radiator hose meets the engine block. Just reaching out in hopes you might have some insight as to why I’m not getting both of those hoses full of coolant before the engine even starts. Just replaced the thermostat on it at the same time as the flush too. Thanks for any help you may have!

[@neoobi32]

The engine has to reach operating temperature for the thermostat to open and circulate more coolant, it is then you would add more until it overflows and all the bubbles come out. You can even park it on a hill in a couple ways to tilt the motor to get all bubbles out. Plus their is coolant in the heater core.

[@josecruzruiz6375]

NIce video, i heard my coolant bubbling/boiling today. Temp was getting between 210 and little after 210. I will be doing this and changing thermostats hopefully it fixes the issue.

[@martinbuilt]

Good luck!

[@alexdominique884]

70/30 is not recommended and could result in the engine overheating in very hot/high usage conditions. Higher concentrations of antifreeze reduce the cooling capability of the system. 100% water is the most efficient but obviously freezes and has a lower boiling point. Run the Coolant mix recommended for your climate (50/50 works over most geographic regions).

[@imfamoussk1387]

Martin for president

[@lanedexter6303]

Great video! I never even knew the 4.7 was one of those engines with the thermostat in the “wrong” hose. Looked like installing that drain petcock in the block was a job for a crowfoot. Anti freeze (glycol) does not transfer heat as well as water. That’s why we don’t run straight anti freeze (WWII aircraft that did, had radiator area engineered for pure glycol). Hey, what about blowing out the system with a few psi of air?

[@WHOMEWHOYOU]

Now that's the way to clean out radiator and refill with lots of great tips, That I will use in the next couple of days on my Jeep 4.7 ..... Thanks much...

[@timbenracing]

Awesome video as usual. Flushing mine this weekend replacing pump and thermostat along with doing the bosch 12 hole injectors at the same time. Now just need to find the intake cheap. We have no pick a parts close to me.

[@martinbuilt]

Nice work! Be patient and you will find that intake.

[@AndreiDRoman]

Hey Martin there is actually two engine block drain plugs on your engine on each side of the motor. Awesome video thank you

[@martinbuilt]

I was wondering about that...I can't see it ...I think the header is blocking my view. Thanks

[@gristlevonraben]

Good video. I never knew engins held so much fluid after draining a radiator. Thank you.

[@irvingcarbajal1433]

On my engine with stock exhaust manifold/pipes it’s imposible to remove that drain plug on engine block without dropping the Y pipe first, or at least in my case I couldn’t do it, swivel adapter won’t help

[@bighenry916]

Same here, i cant crack it open to save my life, let us know how you did it

[@jcstevegigs]

Excellent video!! I had a leaking heater core a couple years ago...ugh...I used a product called K-Seal and it stopped the leak, but now I’m afraid to mess with the anti freeze at all!!! I know I should do this (I have green stuff and regular water in it. Maybe I’m just over-worried. Really good job on the video. Graphics were nice.

[@chestrockwell7023]

Usually you want to turn your heater on high as your burping the system so that the coolant flows through the heater core.

[@martinbuilt]

The coolant flows through the heater core all the time, no matter if you have the heat on or off.

[@LZDEN]

excellent work and advice as always,very nice work Martin.

[@martinbuilt]

LZDEN Thank you I appreciate it

[@LZDEN]

your more than welcome Martin.

[@TravisScott-dv4wl]

Dude, Sir Martin....not for nothing but thank you very much for all videos that i needed and will need...buy u a beer or a case if u like. Thanks brother! Carry on!

[@ibberman]

What a great drain plug, I bet my 4.0 does not have one. 🤞 And the bleeder on top, wow.

[@martinbuilt]

My 98 Jeep Cherokee (XJ) with the 4.0 does have a drain plug at the bottom of the block. Thank you for watching.

[@ibberman]

@@martinbuilt 👍Thank you, I'll check it out on our XJ and WJ, 4.0 If you don't mind, how do you like Vegas? we need to get out of Ca. Although I understand no-one wants Cali people in their state. We are Conservative at 70, came from Reno 50 years ago.

[@keviiiboo7460]

I’ve been using the green/yellow universal OAT coolant on my WJ 4.7 for many years with no issues. I am now considering converting to the HOAT.

[@martinbuilt]

I'm not even sure why it is so important to use the HOAT. But since you've been using the universal for so many years I think if it was it was me I would just keep on using that.

[@keviiiboo7460]

@@martinbuilt Some other KZbinrs have said it helps prevent corrosion but the universal coolant does as well. People have complained about having to get it from the dealer and that it’s expensive. But I checked O’Reilly and they sell it, so I’m pretty sure other stores do to. I mean it doesn’t have to be Mopar Coolant.

[@Qwerty8790]

@@keviiiboo7460 Im doing a water pump/thermostat replacement today and decided to do a flush/ conversion to the Zerex. The only store i found to have then was O’Reilleys, Auto Zone no longer carries it only the Orange North American type.

[@keviiiboo7460]

@@Qwerty8790 Good to know, thanks 👍

[@readchp]

Well done and well said.

[@martinbuilt]

Thank you, glad you liked it. 🙂

[@THATGUY50551]

Thanks for the video, it helped me greatly. Thanks to you and KZbin for these videos, it saves us a lot of money on repairs.

[@martinbuilt]

you're welcome!

[@JClayJaseDetroit]

This is why I refuse to take my WJ to a shop to have them flush it. I doubt they would do this thorough of a job. Thanks for the video.

[@martinbuilt]

Exactly, you nailed it. You know they're not going to send 15 to 20 minutes to make sure they get the air out of the cooling system.

[@Hello_Apee]

8:00 aye the pouring skills r on 10

[@greghubert4968]

Very useful informations,as Im going to replace radiator ,I'll do flushing too. Thank You

[@LANeverSleeps]

Very thorough, thanks!

[@martinbuilt]

Glad you enjoyed it!

[@scottc1008]

Hey Martin, Thank you very much for the awesome videos! On the left side of the engine, when you replaced the engine plug with your own drainplug that has the same thread type (@ 5:18), did you put any Loctite, black rtv sealant, or ptfe tape on its threads to help prevent it from leaking ? or does the drainplug not need anything like this??? Keep up the great work!! Scott

[@martinbuilt]

Yeah I believe I did add something it's been awhile I don't recall what it was. But yes this would be a good idea to add some type of sealant

[@marcoantoniogarciabautista]

Thank you brother for this video!!!!

[@JudjinYevgen]

Im from Odessa / Ukraine 👋👋👋

[@martinbuilt]

Southern Nevada/ 🇺🇸 Thank you for watching. 🙂

[@bryanbowling1857]

Slava Ukraini!!!

[@cartieay]

Thanks

[@Cleaning_Hero]

Who told you that? The factory manual to my 2002 Grand Cherokee 4.7L (not high output) recommends 50/50 conventional green.

[@matthewwilloughby2594]

My 04 grand Cherokee say green as well

[@DL-by8el]

Is this the same for an inline 6 not sure I will find the drains on the engine. I am unfortunately in the middle of a radiator replacement tempted to put the old radiator back in to do the flush which I should have done before I removed it. I will waych again to see if I can tell where you drained the engine block. Could a persn put the black shrink wrap wire covers over the top of those oxygen sensors or do they need air? Thanks

[@4x4-ever]

Hey Martin, quick question. I need to swap some sensor out and everyone's talking about how Bosch sensors don't work well but I live in Europe and original Mopar parts or Denso isn't readily available over here. Did the Bosch o2 sensor work out well for you?

[@martinbuilt]

Yes they worked out just fine for me I haven't had to ever replace them since I installed them. Thank you for watching.

[@محمد232-ذ2غ]

Thank you Martin

[@martinbuilt]

I'm glad you liked it and found it helpful. Thank you for watching.

[@danhambrick6331]

Nice job Martin..

[@cappaculla]

Awesome video by the way, thanks

[@martinbuilt]

Thank you

[@martinbuilt]

By the way Happy New Year

[@chillsolo8280]

I have a 99 wj 4.7 changed my thermostat and now my top radiator hose is super hot and my bottom hose is cold. WJ is not overheating but this temp differential has me worried. Your thoughts?

[@ronlee9984]

You added two gallons (eight quarts) of a 50/50 antifreeze/distilled water solution. That is four quarts of antifreeze. To make a 50/50 solution in the cooling system (total 14 quarts), you needed to add seven quarts of antifreeze. When did you add the other three quarts of antifreeze? Seems to me that you should add pure antifreeze until you get to seven quarts or more if you want a higher antifreeze concentration.

[@martinbuilt]

The antifreeze I used was straight concentrate that's why I used the distilled water to dilute..

[@Trollet456]

I put ammo to soft air gun in reservoair and shake it until it clean

[@mertbora4264]

Hi Martin, thanks for the video. It's really helpful and make the job really easy for us. I have a question about Valvoline Zerex G-05. Did you use the concentrate one? Because, when I look online, I am able to find Pre-Mix 5L bottle which says Do Not add water.

[@martinbuilt]

I ended up using the concentrate that I got at O'Reilly's. I did like a 60/40 mix . If you get the premix there is no need to add any water.

[@chewbaccac-3po129]

Awesome show

[@noemah3272]

Martin thank you for the videos. Just recently I've started to have a leak in the coolant system and have had to refuel it a couple of times. When I bought it I noticed that some blue smoke would come out whenever it would accelerate. I've had it for 2 years now. Just recently a lot more of the blue tinge have been coming out of the muffler. What could be wrong

[@jacko20102]

Make sure you lube the back of the thermostat housing bolt threads before attempting to remove them! I’ve had them stick and snap off before. Not fun!

[@JF32304]

I purchased the same G05 antifreeze and mine isn't nearly that orange, it has a slight orange tint to it but it's not nearly as orange as that.

[@JudjinYevgen]

Good job 👍👍👍

[@martinbuilt]

Thank you 😊

[@philhumphries1570]

Your stuff is ALWAYS helpful. But, I need help to decide where the weakness is in the 2004 JGC AIR CONDITIONER. I have had 4 of this model (WJ)Jeep and NONE of the A/C systems has been anything better than 'an excuse'. A/C vacuum/refill Freon does not work. Doors SEEM to operate OK .... all pressures OK. Where is the likely problem? I ma thinking of doing the whole thiung over by removing the whole Dash ! Help! & Thanks

[@martinbuilt]

I wonder if there evaporator is not restricted, the JGC don't have a cabin filter and can get dirty.

[@eddymagomago4502]

Is much better a antifreeze Preston 50/50 platinum

[@ruiz212]

Excellent video thank you I'm about to do the same on my 2002 GC and this will help immensely. One question why did you loosen the thermostat bolts?? Did you remove the thermostat for the flush then reinstall?? Thanks

[@martinbuilt]

Thank you, yeah I just loosen the thermostat housing to remove any coolant from the engine side of the thermostat.

[@ruiz212]

@@martinbuilt Awesome!! Thanks

[@bobbydabutcha]

How often does the Coolant need to be flushed on the WJ 4.7?

[@loganwilliams4802]

Hey Martin, love the videos, very helpful with excellent explanations and camera work. Question; would you suggest doing the water pump and belt while draining/refilling coolant?

[@martinbuilt]

Thank you, if the water pump is not leaking out of the weep holes I would not change it. Checkc the condition of the serpentine belt. One thing I would consider changing would be the thermostat

[@loganwilliams4802]

martinbuilt good to hear, would rather not deal with the pump and belt! Interesting you suggest the tstat, wjjeeps advises against a lower temp tstat, especially if you’re in a colder climate for fear of insufficient operating temperatures. I get the purpose for running hot and in warm weather but could it adversely affect parts and cause oil sludge/buildup in freezing temps? www.wjjeeps.com/service/cooling.htm

[@martinbuilt]

@@loganwilliams4802 yes I would install a 195 degree t-stat unless you're looking for better performance in conjunction with a programmer and even then if you do live in a cold climate I would still run to 195 . I do run a 180 degree T stat but then I live in Las Vegas where we reach 105 degrees and then some.

[@sundancer76]

EXACTLY what I needed. Will this 1/4in NPT fit the HO as well? TIA

[@martinbuilt]

yes it will.

[@KL-sj7cb]

Quick question I put my coolant into the rad till it takes no more but the coolant doesn’t come out the bleed port. I have to let it get to temp before it starts to flow enough for it to start coming through the port. Could I possibly have a blockage somewhere?

[@user-vu3xb7qn8g]

Where the heck is that bolt on the side? I have 2, 4.7's and I have never seen it.

[@neilbonard]

Great video Martin. My 4.7 is looking somewhat rusty in the radiator. The water is really brown and I can see rust under the cap etc. What would you recommend perhaps something to dissolve the rust to really help clean it for when I flush it any ideas I've heard One vinegar through it to help dissolve the rust thanks

[@martinbuilt]

Neil Bonard Thank you... I don't know I've never tried to vinegar thing. I would definitely try some heavy duty radiator flush. And see if you can get that plug on the left side of the engine block out. The rust is no doubt caused from the engine block itself. That is the only thing that is iron.

[@neilbonard]

martinbuilt thanks again I will try that and hope for the best.

[@farerse]

why doesn't the coolant reservoir pressurize on this car?

[@fireadept007]

You didn’t show draining it at the hose, did you do that first ?

[@martinbuilt]

I drained at the radiator, and then at 3:18 I removed the T-stat housing at the lower radiator hose. Anything that was in the radiator hose was drained when I drained it at the radiator. Thanks for watching.

[@pistolmike791]

Did you runn your heat when you ran the engine? I've done all this but when itgot up to temp heat still cold

[@martinbuilt]

Sounds like something's wrong with your blend door. Coolant is always running through the heater core no matter what you have it set at.

[@pistolmike791]

@@martinbuilt I already did the blend door a fee months back, I just didn't have all the bubbles out. She's right as rain now! Thank you sir

[@davestewart9146]

Hey Martin I just watched your older video, I was wondering if you ever put a cooler temp thermostat in your Jeep and if you have did you get a check engine code using the oem computer settings?

[@martinbuilt]

I installed a 180* thermostat and an E-fan, it runs at 185 and no codes.

[@davestewart9146]

@@martinbuilt thank you my friend 👍😁

[@dawnjuran]

First off, love your videos. They are easy to follow and always learn something new. Have you ever had to replace the coolant temp sensor on your 04? I can't find it anywhere. It's not under the passenger side headlight like other videos have said. $400 at the dealership just seems crazy when I've been able to do everything else myself. Figured it was worth asking. Thanks

[@martinbuilt]

Dawnette Davis Thanks for the kind words. Just to make sure we're talking about the same thing the coolant temperature sensor should be mounted on the engine itself. If you have a 4.7 L you'll find it directly in front of the intake manifold between the AC compressor and the alternator. If you have a 4 liter you will find it on the thermostat housing. You should have no problem changing that out yourself.

[@dawnjuran]

I do have the 4.7. Id's it by any chance near the map sensor?

[@martinbuilt]

Dawnette Davis Yes directly in front of the map sensor like one inch away

[@dawnjuran]

Thank you

[@s.b5412]

Martin good job man .I have jeep same yours I have some presure in radiator house pipe is it ok to have presure ??

[@martinbuilt]

Thank you, yes it is normal for the radiator hose to build pressure as long as the hose isn't swelling which could indicate a leaky head gasket. You may want to purge the cooling system and if air bubbles continue to come out of the cooling system that could also indicate a leaky head gasket. But you're probably okay.

[@s.b5412]

@@martinbuilt yes you are write, after i blead the cooling system with new coolant I drive for couple days no air present but some presure in house pipe that's all I think .

[@cappaculla]

Right hand also for us Irish, the brits, the Japanese, South Africans, kiwis and other colonies..

[@martinbuilt]

Right on :)

[@Joe-zp3fo]

I have a 4.7, I had 3 bad valve seats on one bank, replaced both heads. But now when I run it the temp gage stays 200 to 210 , when I stop at a light gage goes up to 225 to 230 when I start again it goes back down . all new coolant, new everything . What am I doing wrong or did I miss something?

[@martinbuilt]

Did you properly purge the cooling system and if so to me it sounds like there's something wrong with you're cooling fan not operating properly.

[@Joe-zp3fo]

@@martinbuilt I thought I did will try again. If I unplug the sensor on top of the motor fan really goes. Checked last night and all upper hoses were hot but lower radiator hose. THANK YOU for info!

[@calebvaz]

I have an 04' Grand Cherokee 4.7 H.O and I've been having this issue where I drive somewhere and I wait like 15 minutes to cool down I go to start it up and it sputters. And it takes like 15 times and it finally cranks. I've changed plugs, fuel filter, crankshaft position sensor, cleaned the throttle body cleaned the IAC. And nothing has worked. Could it be fuel pump? Or pcm maybe? And also I forgot to mention when I finally get it cranked I get this odd smell maybe like gasoline? I'm not sure. When the Jeep is cold it starts up fine it only happens after I drive and I let it sit for like 15 minutes. If you could help me I would greatly appreciate it

[@martinbuilt]

Caleb Vazquez Well I don't believe it's your fuel pump. I have heard of some problems with the PCM and I could imagine where heat would affect it. If you could find a used one for cheap that might be the way to go. I hate for you to spend a lot of money on a remanufactured one and that not be the problem. These are the kind of things I like to find that pic a part. A matter of fact I found a spare one just recently for my Jeep just in case.

[@calebvaz]

martinbuilt Yeah I had taken it to a mechanic and he kind of told me the same thing. I didn't want to believe it though because I know those things are expensive. Do you know of anywhere I could get one? And would I have to take it to the dealer for them to program it?

[@martinbuilt]

Caleb Vazquez If you could find one out of the same year vehicle with a 4.7 HO motor there would be no reason to have it programmed. The one that I have extra actually came out of a 04 Jeep Grand Cherokee with a 4.7 HO motor. I got it from that jeep that I got the camshafts out of.

[@calebvaz]

martinbuilt thanks for the advice I will give it a shot. By the way your videos are very helpful. I changed my fuel filter following your steps and it was an easy job.

[@robertlee5607]

You can order a PCM from flagship one Inc for 155$ that's where I got mine from

[@mgs8747]

great info! i like your video. i do have a question... how is it working after 4 months? i called my local dodge dealer and they said to use DEX anti freeze.(the red stuff). now i am confused.

[@martinbuilt]

I think you're Dodge dealer doesn't know what they're talking about. The two fluids are different and are not recommended to be mixed. You need to have a coolant in it that has H.O.A.T.

[@mgs8747]

How is your doing? Any issues?

[@martinbuilt]

@@mgs8747 I have no problems. Thank you, Mike, for watching.

[@alexchung5804]

Hi Martin, greetings from Phoenix. I’m having hard time trying to get that 9/16 plug out of the engine block. Like you said, that sucker is in there tight. Any advice? What kind of ratchet and socket do I need? I tried using 6 point socket with a joint extension and no luck. I couldn’t tell what you were using exactly. Your help would be greatly appreciated!

[@martinbuilt]

Hi Alex, I listed the tools that I used to remove the plug in the bottom of my description there are links. I used a 9/16 shallow socket 6 point , a 6in wobbly extension 3/8 Drive and a Craftsman swivel head ratchet wrench . You also may want to try to apply some heat choose a block around the plug that would probably help.

[@alexchung5804]

martinbuilt Thank you again, your videos are awesome and so helpful!

[@duey1083]

What do you do if the engine drain plugs are frozen in place (i.e. can't be removed)? When you loosened the lower rad hose to the thermostat, did you actually remove the thermostat from the block to release the coolant? A cold thermostat would be closed. Just curious as to how to actually drain and flush the system completely if the block can't truly be drained with stuck plugs.

[@martinbuilt]

There is a small hole drilled in thermostat to allow fluid to flow.. you'd be surprised what little coolant will even come out of there even with the thermostat removed. yeah those drain plugs in the side of the block are extremely tight. If you are unable to remove it you may need to fill the system with distilled water and drain it several times to remove all the old coolant.

[@duey1083]

@@martinbuilt Thank you. I'm also assuming when finished flushing the coolant out, you would need to refill with concentrated coolant and likely need to drain and refill until the ratio is correct using a hydrometer?

[@martinbuilt]

@@duey1083 I always get the concentrated coolant and distilled water, mix 50/50 or even 70/30 and refill.

[@MrJayWilliams]

That ram air intake though! That's hot! How do you keep the rain out?

[@martinbuilt]

Mr. Jay Williams It has drain lines on the bottom side of it with one-way valves so no air can be drawn in through the hoses only water can leave

[@RogueMadison]

martinbuilt You gotta shoot me a quick and dirty tutorial on this! You got any photos? Nice job!

[@MrJayWilliams]

martinbuilt that’s awesome! Do you have a write up of parts and photos?

[@martinbuilt]

You may have already seen this kzbin.info/www/bejne/ama8f6xtgdt8frc

[@josecruzruiz6375]

So I flushed the coolant from the radiator and tstat housing but not from the engine block. It previously had green coolant and then I added the same on you added. Am I in trouble?

[@martinbuilt]

there is a lot of coolant in the engine block.

[@c_capp2015]

Hey martin, the plugs on my engine block are pretty rusty and i don’t want to risk snapping them. Would it be okay to flush the system with a hose?

[@martinbuilt]

yeah I understand, those are tight even when they are not rusted. Yes I would just flush with a hose.

[@eddieinsa]

Just bought a 2000 JGC WJ and the previous owner jb welded the drain plug? Whats the name or part number for the housing? I can't bleed my system.

[@4WDriver]

Hopefully not JB Weld and just red loctite (thread locker). If it has never been opened before, they are factory sealed with red loctite and VERY hard to break loose. Use a hammer to give the Allen wrench a few whacks in ALL directions (loosening, tightening, and straight down from overhead, too). If you can get ahold of an impact wrench with an Allen socket, that would be ideal, though. Also, if you have a torch, heating it can help loosen things. If it is in fact JB Welded, the above tricks MAY help, but if not, I would rather drill it out and re-tap threads for a new plug than replace the whole assembly. Looks like you'd have to disassemble most of the accessory drive system to get that part out. Not to mention it's basically the back half of the water pump, and looks like it will have a standard paper gasket, necessitating a lengthy, difficult clean up. The A/C compressor is bolted to it, the alternator has to come off, as well as an idler pulley and the belt tensioner. The heater hoses go into it, and also the lower radiator hose/thermostat housing. Just try the above tips to get it broke free first. There is no possible reason why anyone would ever JB Weld that thing (not saying people don't do things for no and/or stupid reasons, but this would be pretty damn up there.

[@ChicagoSirens]

When my mechanic did a coolant flush, he filled it with the green, universal stuff. Should I be worried?

[@martinbuilt]

Only if he mixed it with any of the right stuff..Mine had the green stuff in it too.

[@novaprospekt1739]

In the short term, no, there wouldn't be any issues. However, with these modern engines it is vitally important to use the proper coolant. If the vehicle is in good shape and you want to keep the engine running properly make sure the generic "universal" coolant is replaced with the proper MOPAR / ZEREX coolant. Really, the only weak point on these 4.7L engines is that an improperly maintained cooling system can lead to major problems such as head-gasket failures and coolant sludging.

[@poundermonster]

I have a question I see a lot of people doing the bleeding with the vehicle on other are doing with the vehicle off, which way is it better? Also how many minutes approximately of bubbles coming out before I close the bleeding screw?

[@martinbuilt]

At least with the 3.7, 4.7 and Hemi engines always bleed with the engine running you'll never get the air out of there with the engine off. I would do it for at least 10 minutes

[@poundermonster]

How can I get rid of all the water inside so I can add 50/50?

[@steven6692]

Thanks for the vid Martin. I have 2004 gc with th 4.7 HO and was concern about the hydraulic fan...i flushed the fluid, but im allmost sure the fan is not kiking in the second speed...in videos concerning the fan relay people mention the location beeng under the pax. Side headligth...i cutted the hole like they mention only to find no relay there....have you by any chance seen it..? And if you did would you tell me where to look...? Thank's men.!

[@martinbuilt]

There is no fan relay for the hydro fan. The speed is controlled by the ECM which transmits a voltage to the solenoid on the hydro fan. You can test the selenoid by unplugging the coolant temperature sensor that is between the alternator and AC compressor.. if your hydro fan goes into super high speed you know that the solenoid is working properly.. I feel that mine doesn't work like it should. I did put an RPM gauge to it recently and it does change RPM but it could be so small that it is quite hard to tell by the naked eye. I'll do a video on it soon. I am seriously considering installing an electric fan. I do have one in mind.

[@steven6692]

Thank's martin! I'm getting to know this engine little by little, and what worries me the most is the heat. I installed a small transmission cooler with a 6 inch fan on it and 10 inch fan rigth next to it for now. Next, the 180 degrees thermostat, the 12 blades ford fan and clutch and an alluminum radiator...i think i' ll be heart attack free for a while after that upgrade.lol

[@martinbuilt]

@@steven6692 was wondering what aluminum radiator you installed? Is it the one that I see on eBay 2 core aluminum radiator? I just got done replacing the one in mine using a osc single core basically a factory replacement.

[@steven6692]

I haven't bougth it yet Martin, but im thinking the two core on ebay for $179, or one just like it here at autozone for the same price or less...i got the 12 blade fan brand new from ebay at $32. and the clutch for $33. The thermostat was way overpriced if you ask me at $51. from jet, but when i heard that the cheap ones ligth up the codes i just went and bougth it. Next will be choosing a waterpump with a good bearing to sustain the chutch and fan...not sure how to choose one but i may just go with the mopar waterpump...cheers!

[@eddymagomago4502]

What is the proper operating temperature for the water in these jeeps?...mine has always run at 210 which seems a bit high to me and I am thinking of changing the thermostat that I recently put new in it for another one of about 175 degrees

[@martinbuilt]

They're designed to run at 203-204 but most do run at 210. You can install a 180 but I doubt it will help much. It will only delay it getting to 210. I replaced the hydraulic cooling fan plus the 180 T-stat and now it runs at 180 and in the Las Vegas heat, I never see over 200.

[@eddymagomago4502]

@@martinbuilt i replace the fan clutch, termostat, water pump, power steering fluid, brand new antifreeze Preston yellow 300000 miles...really working in 207 all time

[@eddymagomago4502]

@@martinbuilt my Jeep has only 172000 miles and runs very good and strong..Is the límited v8 4x4 first gen 1999...thanks sir😉

[@jcstevegigs]

Hey Martin, my mechanic recently did a flush but didn’t change thermostat because he was afraid the bolts on the housing would snap (so there’s no way he did a proper flush) I’m replacing my radiator and want to replace the thermostat and do proper flush. Any suggestions on getting the bolts loose without snapping them? (Or was mechanic being lazy?). Thanks. Love all your videos!

[@martinbuilt]

I would be surprised if they would snap they are not torque very tight at all because the diameter of the bolt is extremely small. Unless the head of the bolts are very rusty, are you from the rust belt?

[@jcstevegigs]

@@martinbuilt thanks for the fast reply. Yeah I’m in NJ. I can’t get a good look at the top one but the bottom doesn’t look too bad. 132K - not sure Tstat has ever been replaced. I’ll get a better look when I get the radiator out. I was gonna spray with PB Blaster and possibly put a torch on the aluminum and try to ease them out by hand.

[@jcstevegigs]

@@martinbuilt He charged me for a radiator flush but obviously he couldn’t have done it right without removing the Tstat. I used reversal bottles of K-Seal to stop the leak so I want all that crap out of there. It’s an old Jeep but I decided I’m going to keep her going!!

[@jcstevegigs]

@@martinbuilt I got my radiator out and got the thermostat housing bolts off without breaking! Gonna Buy new bolts though. Can I just use bolts from Home Depot? Gonna flush it out tomorrow. Hope I can find and get that drain plug out.

[@martinbuilt]

@@jcstevegigs Glad to hear that they didn't break. I didn't think they would. Good luck with the drain plug. It can be a real knuckle buster.

[@missayawk]

Can i just use the Zerex G-05 50/50 mix anti freeze?

[@martinbuilt]

patrick y yes you can

[@missayawk]

martinbuilt Thank you.Its also what i use in my 2 chrysler 300m's

[@jat-justamaturetech-philpj8285]

Hi Martin. Is your Craftsman flex ratchet an old made in USA and how many teeth??

[@martinbuilt]

It is made in the USA and it seems to have 36 teeth.

[@lukehunter2362]

Ugh my heating core hoses are metal.... Do I need to run the air hot if I am to flush with the tstat in?

[@martinbuilt]

only the center section should be metal and the ends are rubber.

[@benbirch2393]

Is the Comma XStream G-05 coolant okay? Must be the same as the Zerex surely, the G-05 Is a BASF technology trademark.

[@martinbuilt]

That sounds like the correct coolant. As long as it has what they call H.O.A.T

[@benbirch2393]

@@martinbuilt thanks Martin, they say it's O.A.T rather than H.O.A.T...?

[@martinbuilt]

@@benbirch2393 then that's not the correct one

[@dustinnadeau5151]

Martin, while were on the subject of coolant, I desperately need a help with replacing the heater core on my 04 Dakota! HELP!!!

[@martinbuilt]

Unfortunately with any modern vehicle the dash needs to be removed to get to the heater core it's not like the sixties and seventies anymore where you can remove the whole HVAC system from underneath the dash. I have looked into doing that only because I was having problems with some blend doors. If you have a Pick-A-Part near you or Pick-n-Pull salvage yard you could always go down and see what's involved in removing the dash and heater core from the HVAC unit. That way you could tear their stuff apart and see what's involved without wrecking your own vehicle

[@dustinnadeau5151]

@@martinbuiltthanks again for the quick response. Unfortunately, those pick-apart yards aren't necessary close. However, if you do decide to do one for your blend door issue, I'd be sitting in the front of the class! Thanks again

[@elomeli211]

I have a 04 4.0 and was curious if the hose that connects towards the top of the coolant overflow reservoir is a vent hose?........because mine is connected to nothing..

[@martinbuilt]

you should have the same as the 4.7 hose from reservoir should go to top of radiator by radiator cap.

[@elomeli211]

@@martinbuilt I meant the other hose.. It goes from near the resovoir cap and behind the reservoir and routs under the ecu kinda.....but then goes nowhere

[@javiercoronel1169]

Did u buy the 50/50? That's what on the link you provided and can't find the one you mention

[@martinbuilt]

Yeah I purchased the concentrate that you mix with distilled water. I don't think Amazon had the concentrate available at the time I did this video. I purchased Concentrate at o'reilly's

[@javiercoronel1169]

@@martinbuilt ok, thanks, I found it on ebay

[@johnfeather5405]

Hey Martin, I have a 05, do I do the same thing with the bleeder? And I would keep bleeding it until no more bubbles come out the bleeder port? Can I use the 50/50 mix? Thanks much

[@martinbuilt]

Yes the process would be the same for your 05. And you can use a 50/ 50 mix.

[@johnfeather5405]

@@martinbuilt thanks. And thanks for responding so quickly.

[@prozay6856]

Is the antifreeze type the same for 4.0L 04 JGC?

[@spaghettiwest]

Do you have a link to purchase a petcock like you used in the block?

[@martinbuilt]

Thank you for pointing that out, I added it to the description. Here is a link to the Drain Valve 1/4 NPT amzn.to/36pEISB

[@wsbkleeger]

Is it the same way for the 4.0?

[@reptilian6413]

I am removing my dash to fix my hvac doors, I noticed my coolant is orange but looks darker orange is this normal for aged coolant?

[@martinbuilt]

Is this a vehicle you've owned or is is it possible the previous owner put the GM orange coolant in it

[@reptilian6413]

@@martinbuilt I have a 2004 wj overland. Previous owner took it on trade and bought it. I've had it almost 5 years now

[@jat-justamaturetech-philpj8285]

Hey your link for the Zerex is for the 50/50 mix. Do you have a link for the full strength?? Thanks

[@martinbuilt]

I couldn't find Zerex full strength but here is Genuine Mopar Fluid Antifreeze/Coolant amzn.to/3hQrNm2

[@jat-justamaturetech-philpj8285]

@@martinbuilt . Where did you get yours?

[@martinbuilt]

@@jat-justamaturetech-philpj8285 O'Reilly's

[@salvadorplascencia5569]

Hey Martin where are you i need to do that to my jeep .

[@martinbuilt]

When you do this make absolutely sure that you purge the system. All the air needs to be removed. My theory is that the valve seat drop that happens is due to improperly purged the Cooling system. Pockets of air that get trapped in the cylinder head cause hot spots in the cylinder head that move around

[@grahamschmidt7840]

The orange stuff is like dex cool it will eat the engine my freind has a olds mobile aurora with a 4.2 v8 i think aluminum block and the previous owner used dex cool so we flushed it and put prestone in it because its universal 1 month later he had to flush it again and he had like a silvet slug voming out of his car it was the engine block dexcool is so corrosive it eats everything

[@martinbuilt]

Dexcool and Zerex G-05 are not the same and should never be mixed. This could cause sludging of the coolant. Dexcool should never be used in this engine. The only thing they have in common is the color. All coolant would be clear if it wasn't for the manufacturer adding a dye to the coolant.

[@ivanvujadinovic2651]

Hey Martin, is the 9/16s plug bolt on the block supposed to be so hard to remove? Wondering if I can use the breaker bar or impact, wondering if that would that risk stripping it... Tried just the wrench and it won't move...

[@LeaveMeForeverAlone]

Got the same problem on my 4.7HO and I'm still fighting to fine a way to get this crappy brass NPT screw out. Seems like a crowfoot would be ok, but my 14mm is a bit too tight to fit, I'd need a similar one for 9/16. I have already given some attempts but without success. All I did was damaging a bit some edges. It's quite frustrating, to be honest!

[@dustinmittel348]

Question if you run your hear would it not run through the system?

[@martinbuilt]

Dustin Mittel Sorry I don't understand what you're asking.

[@dustinmittel348]

martinbuilt sorry fat thumb if you run the heating while doing the flush would it clean out the heating system as well

[@keithfought8085]

Do u turn on the heater while u bleeding the coolant system

[@martinbuilt]

I don't because the coolant flows through the heater core if it's on or not

[@keithfought8085]

Ah got it I know some cars and truck I have to thank you

[@erickperez2672]

Does this work for a 2010 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo

[@martinbuilt]

yes. it does, thank you for watching

[@gerardovidana3466]

Are you still answering questions i need help with my 2003 dodge dakota

[@martinbuilt]

Yes, what's up

[@gerardovidana3466]

A blown head gasket how much would it go for to repair?

[@gerardovidana3466]

A blown head gasket how much would it go for to repair?

[@martinbuilt]

@@gerardovidana3466 at a shop it would be 1500 plus, do it yourself 200

[@JorgeRamos-le6ew]

What’s a good radiator brand .

[@martinbuilt]

I replace mine with an OSC, it fit like a factory and has been working great.

[@coreybacon9007]

dont know if that new plug is a good idea, that comes loose, u will loose all coolant in engine.

[@martinbuilt]

no different if the drain plug on the radiator were to come loose, and how many times have you heard of that happening?

[@pauladams2445]

The bleeder looks like a torx bit to me

[@martinbuilt]

It is definitely an Allen 10mm, don't use an 3/8 you take a chase of striping out the Allen key.