Foam and Plaster Prop Tutorial (part two)

Part two of the series that should probably just be called "How To Use Cheap Hardware Supplies To Make Large Props" (featuring: Plaster)
part one: • Foam and Plaster Prop ...
Updated to add, don't use the Great Stuff foam for this technique. It tends to shrink and expand a lot after being carved down (probably due to humidity). This means it won't hold its shape/surface well, and will eventually cause the plaster to crack.
written tutorial can be found here: commishenanigans.tumblr.com/po...
and the visor material can be found here: www.etsy.com/listing/19336439...
for questions, or commissions, feel free to contact me @google.com (commishenanigans)

[@IXIArblargIXI]

Thank you for being one of the only people that covers this method of "finishing" a props surface. I made a large sword from insulation foam which has been coated in mod podge and further in plastidip however it still has a lot more "battle damage" than I would like. I think I will end up using drywall spackling or plaster for a final smooth sandable and primeable coat for painting.

[@Stupidtacocatstuffgrr]

I'm making sailor saturns glaive and this was by far the best method of expandable foam I've seen. Thank you so much! I might actually survive this con crunch!

[@jasminewood1148]

There is also plaster strips that are basically plaster coated gauze it works great for wrapping and layering

[@baconbutty1131]

Thanks for an informative video without all the chit chat and filler talk that so many tutorials have. I appreciate your easy to follow instructions. Excellent!

[@xo2stepbabiiox]

omg this is 7 years old and ive watched it like 3 times already. this was sooo helpful!!

[@commishenanigans]

That's awesome, I'm so glad it keeps being helpful!!

[@TheZaeCat]

Thank you so much! I took a break from cosplay and make the base of a bow from spray foam and when I came back to finish it this year completely forgot where to go from there and your video helped me so much! THANK YOU!!!!

[@CazM]

that is REALLY nice, clean work! good job! i've never worked with plaster or expanding foam before but you've shown how versatile it is, so i'm considering how to use it with my next cosplay!

[@commishenanigans]

Thanks so much, glad you like it! It really is amazingly versatile, good luck with your next project!

[@Tcustoms]

Y’all were crazy talented back in the day, I just let a machine build my props for me XD

[@michaelsashayoung8519]

I love this tutorial. Great tip using the clay scraping tool.... that was a Eureka moment for me.

[@lewina_]

yay! thanks for this, ive been searching for the best way to smooth out the foam after sculpting, this will be MUCH easier

[@commishenanigans]

awesome, happy to help!

[@joeyaklic9002]

Damn that was impressive! Really like the technique also, looking forward to giving it a shot, thank you!

[@MrScougle]

Hi. I looked at the date of this video. I see you haven't done one for a long time but you are great at giving instructions and should consider making more how to videos. You did a really good job on this video. Thanks for it.

[@commishenanigans]

Hi there! Thanks so much for the comment, it really means a lot! I had been considering getting back into it, though it's going to take a bit more doing now since sadly my computer and camera were stolen about a year ago. I've got a computer again but I really need to reinvest in a camera soon. Seeing your comment is super motivating though, and makes me really want to get back into it. I appreciate it!

[@beersport]

Awesome work and video! Thank you for this!

[@virginiaryals8119]

Great teaching video. Just what I needed. Thanks!

[@NothingToDoCrew]

thanks for the tutorial! I have been using cardboard and liquid nails and have been thinking about doing foam/plaster. Not sure how the results will differ, but it should help cutdown on the weight

[@user-jb8bz2oo7p]

Wow girl you are freaking talented

[@apache-0verkill]

Awesome! This was really helpful. Thx!

[@nadronnocojr]

Awesome stuff here !

[@alexl7213]

If you're working with cardboard, do a mix of plaster/water/white glue for coating. It makes it very hard and easy to paint. If you need a harder surface, add layers of fissure stucco/water/white glue. Hell, if you really need it hard, use glue cement/water/white glue. (Glue cement is a ready made powder cement that just needs water added)

[@breezyjonesx]

Awesome! I am going to make some tiki poles like this. Thank you for taking the time to show us how to do it. :)

[@kalebryan1133]

You're pretty awesome!!! Thank you for some serious needed guidance

[@commishenanigans]

Thanks so much, glad I could help!!

[@shock1017]

Just what I needed thank you!

[@fredrikoregard832]

Thanks for your wise advice! 😃🙏

[@pierreburgaud2347]

you can use a rasp for the rough plaster sanding.it has a sharpening effct on your shapes unlike the sand paper/thank you for your clever process though it s cheap and definitly cool and easy

[@CoreniaBug]

Great job I love it!!! :)

[@cecib91]

OMG than you so much for this super cleare tutorial! Finally I know how to work with my messy foam :)

[@commishenanigans]

No problem, glad it helped!

[@georgeksirakis8898]

great tutorial , thank you very much , God bless you!!!!

[@belzebulle3068]

Thank youuuu!

[@maleerowell1087]

Hi there! awesome tutorial, was just wondering if this helmet was very durable? did the plaster crack / flake off etc. at all?

[@commishenanigans]

+Malee Rowell Thanks, glad you like it! I haven't had any problem with the helmet cracking under normal wear and tear, but if you drop it the plaster will definitely crack (to what extent depends on how hard it hits the ground). Both adding glue to your plaster mix (just regular kids school glue) or coating it in something more durable like plasti-dip when it's finished can help a bit, but unfortunately plaster itself isn't super strong. On the bright side, it's fairly easy to repair since plaster will always stick to itself! But yeah, short version: plaster looks great but won't withstand any sort of heavy impact against unforgiving surfaces

[@alexzeta3763]

A m a z i n g. Thank you! Such a good tutorial :)

[@commishenanigans]

Thanks so much, glad you liked it!

[@Sitgo]

Cool. Thanks!

[@emilyrosenzweig9946]

Thank you for both of these tutorials -- so awesome!! For the piece I'm working on I don't need a perfectly smooth surface (it will be covered with feathers and sequins) and I'm worried another weight plaster would add. Is there any other sealant for the foam you'd recommend?

[@commishenanigans]

Thanks so much, glad I could help! If you're already planning on coating your surface with feathers and sequins you honestly might not need a sealant for the foam, and can use the feathers and sequins essentially as the sealant itself. If you're looking for a more even coat as a base to help adhere the feathers and sequins though you could try giving either mod podge or latex paint a shot. It takes a bit of building up, but I know those are common sealants people use on foam. Another option, if you're good at sewing or it's a simple shape, could even be fabric over the foam, but that one feels a lot trickier. Technically I think gluing and pinning it on place like you're upholstering something would be possible, but I've never tried it myself so I don't have any specific recommendations there sadly, beyond the fact that it should be possible. Hope this helped, and good luck with your project!

[@ashleyrl4494]

I highly recommend using an electric sander because it makes sanding larger, less detailed areas a lot easier!

[@commishenanigans]

Definitely could be a good option, though I've found it easy to accidentally eat all the way through the plaster and down to the foam even just hand sanding with how thin the plaster coat is haha. But if you've got good control, and a large surface area/thicker coat of plaster that's definitely a way to get things done fast!

[@bigboyroy843]

hey I really appreciate the tutorial and I was wondering if one day you don't have to do it anytime soon if you could do one on polyurethane if not that's ok hope you do well in your you tube career

[@commishenanigans]

Hi there, thanks so much, I'm so glad you like it! Sadly I've never really gotten a chance to work with polyurethane so I don't think I could make the best tutorial, but I really appreciate your interest! If I ever get a chance to work with it more I'll be sure to post a vid talking about it. Thanks for checking my channel out too!

[@dragonbro23456]

thanks for the idea, ill ne using plaster to fill in bondo holes then using it as a master, it super heavy as is

[@commishenanigans]

happy it could help!

[@mariamkhaled2612]

What a professional video 😍😍 I just want to ask if their is a kind of a paint that can give me that shinny texture Thanks in advance

[@commishenanigans]

Thanks so much, glad I could help! Sorry for such a delayed response, but if you're still looking for options Rust-Oleum gloss paints can give a really nice shiny texture, especially if you take the time to build it up. Another option is using a clear gloss coat after you paint. Either a spray, or a paintable/pourable poly-urethane coat can be good, depending on the type of paint you use for a base coat. Using a glossy overcoat can be nice for adding detail with your preferred paint and then glossing the whole thing, but it is important to test the overcoat to make sure it won't have any reactions to the base coat so you don't waste your time and effort only to have it ruined in the final step. Hope this helps, and that the answer wasn't too late!

[@arjan3pt]

Hi, loved it, many techniques to learn from for me, one question what did you use for the visor?

[@commishenanigans]

Hi there, glad you liked it! The visor stuff can be found here www.etsy.com/listing/193364395/flexible-metallic-visor-material it comes in a bunch of colors, but for the Halo helmet I went for gold

[@eviljbrian]

Pretty good tutorial. I may have to use this on a few props I'm making later on. I'm working on a couple of barrels that I'll be wearing on my feet. About 18" tall and 15" diameter at the widest. I still have to put in grooves for the space in between wood planks (probably with a dremel and a cone sanding stone) and this seems by far the easiest thing I've seen to do in terms of filling in the tiny holes and such, but I'm almost worried about some parts chipping off. Do you think a few coats of Plasti Dip would help with this? Or is it something you haven't really used.

[@commishenanigans]

eviljbrian Thanks, I'm glad it could help! I think Plasti Dip would work, but I haven't had the chance to try it. Even Mod Poge gives a bit of protection, but if you're going to be walking around on them then I would definitely go for something more durable. There's no reason I can think of that Plasti Dip /wouldn't/ work, so it seems like a really good bet. I'd love to know how it does if you do end up using it, because I've been wanting to try it for a while now. The other thing you might like to try is filling in the gaps with acrylic caulking. It's semi-flexible and decently durable, and you'd be able to paint it as well (though you'd still want to seal it afterwards). It's pretty easy to apply as well, all you need is a semi-flexible straight edge (like an old credit card/id card or something), and you can just spread it on like frosting or spackle.

[@kevint.5381]

Very cool

[@daveymichael6891]

Great video. I have started a plaster sculpture wall plaque where I start by pouring plaster directly onto a dried pre made plaster base then mould and sculpt the plaster like you have done in video and shape it while it's wet. Wet Plaster to dry plaster seems to hold really well... I wondered if it makes any difference adding wet plaster to a base that wasn't fully dry but had just cooled down... Would it make the bond stronger in any way? Someone suggested using a foam base instead of plaster for larger sculptures as it will make it lighter overall. You mention not to work with plaster after it's started to warm up. If I wanted to touch up areas with wet plaster could I return after a day or 2 to keep adding plaster to areas and make some fills or should the majority only be done during the wet/damp stage at the start of process? I ask because I intend to sell my creations at some point and don't want something happening to the plaster over time ifor example it starts crumbling or breaking because it wasn't originally applied correctly.

[@commishenanigans]

Glad you liked the video! That sounds like a cool process you're using, and yes wet to dry plaster usually holds up pretty well. If it was subject to high heat (like in the 1000s °f) there's a chance the two layers could separate, but otherwise I've never had a problem before. Structurally I don't think it makes a difference between adding new plaster to still damp (but fully cured) plaster vs dried plaster, but you may have an easier time adding thinner layers to the damp plaster. In theory that could increase the chance of flaking because the new layer has less overall strength in that area since it's thinner, but especially assuming you paint this plaster or seal it in some way I don't think it should be a problem. You can also add fresh plaster on to slightly older plaster that hasn't quite cured yet. That's actually the strongest way to do it, since the layers start to bond together (and will withstand those extremely high temps I mentioned). I'm not sure if that's a viable technique for you though, since it involves building it up from the beginning by mixing some plaster, shaping it as it gets to the putty stage, and then quickly making a new batch and adding it on as the first layer starts to set. If you do that you just have to be careful not to crush/reshape the original layer because that can make it weak. The reason I talk about not working the plaster as it starts to heat is that's when the plaster starts to bond strongly and molding it at that stage causes the bonds to break and become weak. Aside from in that short period where it warms you can add new plaster to old plaster at pretty much any time unless it's going to be put into extreme heat conditions. Hope this helps, and good luck with your projects!

[@lightshade3321]

This is fantastic!...I will try this helmet Im building kamerider I will start with card board, then build it up with kiwik form, then pkaster your videos are great!!!!😁 Thank yiu so much!...I hope you do more videos.

[@Miyu0pon]

you clear most of my doubts about "how to do these types of props owo!! just one question, what "type" of painting do you use, acrilic, water base, or "anything is fine"

[@commishenanigans]

Constance Navalon As far as I know anything is fine, but my favorite to use is cheap acrylic craft paint that I water down a little so the color soaks into the plaster a bit. Tempra paint will almost certainly crack once it's dry, and oil paint seems unnecessarily complicated. As far as spray paint goes there's no need for a specific type. When working with EVA foam you would need something that bonds to plastics for the best results, but plaster is very forgiving and will hold almost any pigment application as long as you seal it in the end. The main thing is not coating it with paint too thickly, otherwise it'll peel off

[@emmawilson3989]

You don't understand how happy I am that I found this tutorial omg. Ok so I'm a noob and not the brightest one so I have two pretty stupid questions; 1) What do you mean by batches, I'm making a pretty basic prop (Marceline's axe bass) with quite few details, and I haven't used plaster before so I don't really get the concept. 2) Are you able to drill into expanding foam without damaging it? and would you recommend doing this before or after sanding? also thank you sm this video is great

[@emmawilson3989]

oh also and this is so stupid put for painting you can use acrylic or spray or anything ye sorry to pester you

[@LisaAnne1998]

So I'm not an expert and this is pretty late but here is what I think 1)Since plaster starts drying pretty quickly its better not to make to much at a time, so you make a little at a time. (I hope that made sense) 2) Yes you can and I would do so before sanding since else you will just have to send a part again (aka waisted work) I think you can use both.

[@commishenanigans]

Hi there, I'm so sorry I missed this somehow! Lisa's answer to you was absolutely correct though, and I hope it got to you in a timely fashion. Hope your prop came out awesome!

[@jennifervanhaandel]

Great video! I have a question though: I'm currently making a giant hobby horse weapon from the game: Alice Madness Returns. I was wondering if there are any other options for filling the gaps since plaster would be way too heavy. I'm also scared if it'll break easily. Do you have any recommendations? And will it be more expensive? I'm a broke teen so I don't really have a big budget (': (would gesso be an option?)

[@commishenanigans]

Thanks so much, glad you liked it! As for lightweight more flexible fillers/surface coats there are a couple options (gesso is definitely one of them, though that's probably best for the surface coat, not big gaps). For the big gaps you can just use more spray insulating foam to fill them in and then carve that down to match. Acrilic-latex caulking can be used for smaller gaps if you really felt like getting detailed about it, though it's not necessary (make sure to used latex caulking, not silicon if you do though because silicone isn't paintable). As far as a general surface coat goes, the first thing that comes to mind are multiple coats of mod-podge or latex primer paint. This can take a while to build up to cover things completely, but is one of the more common methods because it's fairly lightweight and somewhat flexible, and house paint at least isn't too expensive by the gallon (mod-podge is a bit more, but still less than $20 I think). Gesso would work in basically the same manner, so if that's what you have go for it! Keep in mind for all of these that it can feel slow going at first haha. The foam will act like a sponge when you do your first coat, so just let it dry and then build up the next layer and continue from there. Another option could be using paper mache to coat everything (this would also hide all but the largest gaps, so you wouldn't have to do a ton of filling in beforehand). Paper mache in this case could just be torn up strips of paper and Elmer's glue with water to make it thin enough to paint onto the paper. It's a little time consuming to make paper mache look really nice, but newspaper and glue are generally pretty cheap as a coating. If you go the paper mache route, though, just be aware that it doesn't really like to stick to the foam, so until you have a section anchored it can be hard to deal with. I'd recommend starting with a small area (maybe the end of the handle or the horn or an ear in your prop's case) and wrapping the paper entirely around that first so it's sticking to itself before moving out from there. Also a side note if you haven't already done it and are worried about breakage--use either a dowel or some PVC pipe down the length of the handle and into the head for extra sturdiness before you foam things. It'll add a bit more support for the head at the junction, even if things get heavier than you wanted or you swing your prop around a lot. Good luck with everything and I hope this helps!

[@VocalCosplay]

Does the plaster make it heavy? I'm making a halo and need it to stay relatively light still to go onto a wire.

[@commishenanigans]

VocalCosplay as long as you don't coat it too thickly it'll stay pretty light. I think in the end mine was less then a pound

[@buttmunchertm615]

Hey I just came across this and it is really neat I am going to try making it but one problem I have. How would I go with getting the right visor I don't know how to attach it could you please tell me the right way.

[@commishenanigans]

Hi there! I used the gold flexible metallic visor from these guys www.etsy.com/listing/193364395/flexible-metallic-visor-material It's super easy to use and cuts like cardstock. The only downside is that it can only bend in one direction (essentially that means you can make an arch but not a dome), but that works well enough for the visor in this case. And all I did to attach it was trim it to fit then hot glue it in place. Hope this helps!

[@MitsueOokami]

Hi! Do you think I could use this Method for a massive Mask? i want to make Hornet from the game Hollow Knight and her Mask is quite tall (probably something like the troll horns in part one), i've been trying to find different methods to make it. also any suggestions of how i could make the base for my face in the cardboard part?

[@commishenanigans]

Hi there! So sorry I just saw this, and I hope I'm not too late with the reply. For something like Hornet's mask I'd recommend using thick eva foam sheet, like the kind you can get for workshop floor mats. It can be heated with a heat gun and curved permanently that way, and you can carve it and sand it either by hand or with a Dremel (Dremel will be much faster than by hand if you've got one). There are some really great tutorials about it on KZbin you can check out as well. Hope this wasn't too late and your mask comes out awesome!

[@neechi_97]

Hi just a few questions :) 1)have you ever worked with fast mache as a lighter alternative to plaster? 2)would u recommend priming the plaster before beginning the painting process? 3)how durable would u say the final project is? thank u for your tutorial!! it was incredibly helpful!!

[@commishenanigans]

Nicole Baldonado Hi! I've only worked with fast mache a little bit, and never for props (just school stuff). I wasn't a huge fan of it, mostly because it requires a lot more time and patience to get looking good. It's not as sandable (or at least the type I used wasn't) so you have to get it right while it's still wet, or build up further layers to make it smooth instead of just sanding down any rough spots. I've seen some really impressive stuff done stuff with it though, so I think it's probably just a matter of preference Priming plaster is a bit of a balancing act. You do want a base coat, both for color and to seal everything, but if you build the paint up too thickly it peels off. I use a thin watered down coat of acrylic paint as my primer/base coat--basically that just gets rid of any dust that might be left and makes the plaster easier to paint because it won't absorb as much water while you do. Spray paint, while not watery, works in a similar fashion by giving the plaster a thin even coat of color that seals it at the same time. My biggest problem with spray painting has been color-matching, though you can adjust the color by doing some extra painting/shading with acrylics later The final piece is fairly durable once you seal it (I use off-brand modpoge) though I wouldn't hit anything with it, and dropping it will almost certainly crack the finish. On the bright side, since you can add more plaster even if the old plaster has been dry for ages it's still fixable. The foam itself is incredibly durable, and as long as that survives you'll be able to repair anything. (I've also run across rubberized sealant, so that might be something to look into if you want your prop to be able to take some heavy hits) I'm glad the tutorial helped! Good luck with your prop making :D

[@asuna2010]

Commishenanigans hye, thank you for your great video. You give me inspiration for my final year project. Can I know how you make your shield? Thank you :)

[@commishenanigans]

azy syawal thanks so much, I'm glad I could help! The face shield is flexible metallic visor material from Icon Props (etsy(.)com/listing/193364395/flexible-metallic-visor-material) that I cut into shape and glued in place. It's really easy to work with, and comes in a bunch of colors (this visor is the plain gold one). Good luck on your final project!!

[@morbidmizzy3389]

Hey! Im planning to make a pair of werewolf feet with expanding foam onto a pair of boots. I was wondering how plaster would work on them? Do you think it would be too breakable to use on something like feet since it will get a ton of use and bumps/scrapes. Someone suggested using Plasti seal but that wont fill in holes.

[@commishenanigans]

Hi there! Unfortunately plaster would definitely be too breakable for feet. Depending on the texture you want from the finished product there are a couple things you can try instead though! Something that looks similar, but is much more durable would be bondo. It's fairly lightweight, and a very popular prop-making material, though the downside is that it's much more intense to use. Most bondo that I've seen needs to be mixed from two parts, and has a strong chemical smell so it should be done somewhere with a lot of ventilation (and a respirator or face mask is probably a good idea as well). It's also really durable, which is great for not having your stuff break, but also means that sanding things smooth takes a good while longer than plaster does. But! It's also strong enough that people sometimes use it to patch holes in cars, so it'd definitely be strong enough to wear on feet. Another option, if you'd like a more textured surface, is using acrylic/latex caulking. It's very flexible, so it wouldn't break, and you could also sculpt a kind of fur texture into it as you cover the foam. Keep in mind you will need a couple thick coats to completely cover/hide the holes. The first coat will give a more even surface and fill in all the big holes, while the second covers the rest of holes/unevenness and allows you to build up a kind of hairy texture (I've done this particular technique a couple times and you can get that kind of look by just dragging your gloved fingers over the thickly coated caulking. As the caulking sticks and pulls away from your fingers it makes a kind of peaked "hairy" texture) . The short version--if you'd like a sanded smooth surface check out bondo, if you'd like to sculpt in some texture (or just don't care if you can't sand it smooth) try acrylic/latex caulking. Good luck, and I hope this helps!

[@morbidmizzy3389]

@@commishenanigans Thank you so much! I have used bondo before but with fiberglass and wood projects. I dont know why I didn't think of it. Thank you so much for your advise. Youre the bees knees!

[@commishenanigans]

Happy I could help! (and sorry for the late reply here haha) Hope your feet worked out well!

[@LisaAnne1998]

Should I add something over the paint so it doest wear off? And if so what do you recommend? (sorry for the nobbie question!) And thank you for the tutorials! I'm gonna use them to make my loki horns.

[@commishenanigans]

It kind of depends on the look you're going for, but if you want durability then something like Mod Podge or any other brand of Decoupage is the way to go. It's a paintable acrylic-based clear coat. There are spray clear-coats as well, but I haven't tried them on this myself so I can't say for sure how it'll work. I'm guessing they would be fine as well though. And glad the tutorial could help, good luck with your horns!

[@LisaAnne1998]

thank you!

[@mariaemilianegron]

Thank you very much for sharing your knowledge God bless you can I use cement instead?

[@commishenanigans]

Glad you liked it, and happy to help! I've never tried cement, but I believe you can, yes. I've seen people do it by using plaster first as a base and then coating the cement on top to cut down on some of the weight. Another thing that might be worth looking into if durability and light weight is the goal is ultracal. Ultracal behaves a little more like plaster in that it's lightweight and doesn't irritate skin the same way cement does, but it's also much closer to cement in durability. Hope this helps, and good luck with your project!

[@mariaemilianegron]

Okay I will try it. I will let you know

[@pivot500]

So I am doing this for my cubone bone xD and I feel that it might crack? am I wrong or should I wait until I paint it? thanks~

[@commishenanigans]

Awesome! I haven't had any problems with cracking plaster/paint, though building up the paint too thickly sometimes makes it peel. And for bone if you want you can get a really cool effect by smoothing the plaster on a little more roughly, then only sanding it down part-way. It gives the whole thing a porous/striated texture that looks pretty cool

[@TaylorYoungTY]

i'm wanting to make the gryphon queen wings from riverdale, would this method be too heavy to wear the wings?

[@commishenanigans]

It definitely would get a bit unwieldy with that much weight on your back, and would also be super fragile, so I don't think I'd recommend it. Looking at the wings though, it might be more effective and true to the look to try making them out of cloth wrapped around a wire frame? The ones in the show look like they've got a bit of movement to them. If you're worried about them not being stiff or durable enough dipping the fabric/bandages in a thin mix of latex paint or mod podge might make them stiff enough to shape and be durable, without adding a ton of weight. I'd recommend experimenting with that before going all out though, since it might not give you the look you're really going for. Hope this helped, and good luck with your wings!

[@HolyFreakinDragonSlayer]

Can you fill in holes with plaster?

[@LuisGonzalez-gb4uh]

Can I use drywall compound instead of plaster of Paris? By the way, is this styrofoam?

[@commishenanigans]

I haven't tried it myself, but I believe so, yes. They're fairly similar materials. And this helmet is spray insulating foam I carved into shape (part one goes over that, if you want to check it out). The one time I used stryrofoam it worked out okay, but was a little more frustrating to apply the plaster to. Not impossible though, if that's what you want to use instead

[@MrHuggykins]

How long did this take? I've been trying to find a solution to fill in the porousness of a cosplay instrument I'm doing and this seems perfect! I need to be done this week though.. Do you think if I buy the plaster tomorrow, finish carving and then apply plaster tomorrow I'd be ready to sand it/paint it by Tuesday/Wednesday?

[@commishenanigans]

Depending on how humid it is where you are and how thickly you apply the plaster Wednesday seems like a pretty safe bet. If worse comes to worst you can still sand plaster even before it's 100% dry, it just takes a lot longer because it clogs the sandpaper so quickly. Putting the prop under a fan or in the oven with the oven low (around 120°) is also a way to speed up drying. Be careful with the oven technique though, I've had the plaster crack on me when I applied it too thickly and dried it too quickly. Good luck with your piece!

[@MrHuggykins]

Commishenanigans I'm actually going to try mod podge before plaster! If I remember I'll let you know how it goes.

[@MrHuggykins]

Commishenanigans I'm actually going to try mod podge before plaster! If I remember I'll let you know how it goes.

[@nayz1212]

This so about to save my life for a chainsaw man cosplay, thank you

[@DevilishDeathmatch]

I need a Grim Fandango Mask but I have no idea how to make the Shape? And i don't wanna use the expending Foam. So you have any tips for me?

[@commishenanigans]

So this is probably too late to be useful, sorry about that. But! If you're talking about the one I think you mean you might want to check out EVA foam. It's durable and carvable, though you will probably need either a dremel tool or hot knife. Aside from that I don't really have any options unfortunately

[@franticpanda2008]

Would plaster work to create a hard finish on something fluffly like upholstery foam?

[@commishenanigans]

Yes and no. If you just wanted it to LOOK hard and smooth it'd probably work with a lot of effort. If you wanted it to be used or touched in any way though definitely not. Unfortunately plaster is very brittle, which means it'd break and flake off of anything once it bent. I still haven't found a good solution that I like and find easy to work with. My first thought though is some type of rubberized/flexible coat that just looks hard without actually being hard. That way if the foam flexed the surface coat would bend with it instead of breaking

[@nikandrosnickmackeage378]

I used drywall spackle for a scythe prop and it seems to crack when I'm holding it is there a way to stop it from cracking

[@commishenanigans]

Hi there! Hmm, sounds like the handle is too thin for the weight of the head, so it's flexing when you hold it which is causing the cracking. There are a couple options but probably the easiest solution would be to use a different material to coat the handle part (either one that has a little flex or one that is ultra durable). There are a couple options that I know of there, though if you're looking for ultra smooth they're all a bit more tricky than plaster to sand. For flexible options plasti-dip is a common one, though I've had issues with how easily it peels so maybe not the ideal option for a handle that gets touched all the time. I've also used acrylic caulking and smoothed that on, though it's very messy to work with. It is a water cleanup and easy to paint though, so that's nice. For more durable options the one most similar to working with drywall spackle would be to use Bondo. It's a very durable two part mixable compound people sometimes use to fix cars, and very tough. It's also sandable and paintable, though because it's so durable sanding takes much more time than drywall. For another option a coat or two of epoxy resin might do the trick, though again messy. I think the best option there would be to use a pour-able kind and pour a thin coat on one side and then the other of the handle (letting them dry completely between sides). For both of the durable options make sure to put paper down on your work surface and wear gloves, as well as working in a well ventilated area, since both epoxy and bondo give off a lot of fumes. Sorry it took a bit to respond, and I hope this helps! Good luck with your scythe!

[@mariomurcia7509]

i really appreciate the vid! does the plaster fall out at all? i wanna paint my final mask but im sorried the plaster will flake off

[@commishenanigans]

Not at all! The porousness of the foam helps anchor the plaster as long as your start putting it on when it's fairly liquid and smooth it in as you go. The only problems that can happen are over-flexing your foam base, since that can cause the plaster to crack, or dropping it. Once cracks form the plaster can start to flake, but it's usually around the cracks themselves and not big flakes. The type of paint you use to seal/finish it can help a lot with that as well though. Using a thick or flexible paint can help make it so the plaster is less likely to crack, and if it does it'll be more likely to hold together. I also know of people that coat their finished pieces in epoxy, though that's not something I've ever done myself. For this helmet I used just acrylic paint (with a light watered down wash as my first coat and then building up layers) and never had a problem. The Fishbones from LoL I did used spray paint as it's base, with acrylic on top for detail and I never heard of problems from the commissioner with that either. Fishbones also was sealed with modpodge, so that may have added some protection too. Hope this helps and good luck with your project!

[@mariomurcia7509]

@@commishenanigans this definitely helps alot, i used wall plaster instead of normal plaster of Paris and it flakes a lot so that was def a begginer mistake. i appreciate the insight and youre very talented! definitely an enfp or something

[@commishenanigans]

@@mariomurcia7509 Thanks so much, and I'm glad I could help! Also ah yeah I can see how that would happen, especially if the wall plaster is premade. it really needs that more liquid stage to really get in the holes of the foam to anchor. Hopefully not too hard a fix though!

[@garettmeidinger8256]

This is genius thank u

[@commishenanigans]

Glad it could help!

[@TheYellowhead07]

Thank you so muts, you R the Bomb

[@Ravenswake]

Not sure if it got covered in the video but what kind of plaster was used

[@commishenanigans]

+Bryan Thompson basically any brand of casting plaster with a 20-30 minute set time. Hardware stores usually have it kzbin.info/www/bejne/norMk6BsbsprfMU

[@Ravenswake]

kk thanks

[@samwes4874]

Cool helmet!!!!

[@commishenanigans]

Thanks!

[@christopherjohnson8876]

Can you use plaster with pepakura?, or is this just for foam?

[@commishenanigans]

Christopher Johnson I've never tried it with pepakura, but I think you might be able to? As long as you were using fairly thick/sturdy paper as your base and had already sealed everything completely it should work, though you'd have to be very careful about the weight buildup. Probably I'd recommend bondo instead, since that seems to be the go-to for pepakura finishing, but if you're not interested in investing the time/money/heavier machinery involved in bondo work then plaster is a close second (though far less durable in exchange for it's easy workability). If anything I'd say try a test on a small piece that you didn't put a ton of time and effort into and see how that turns out (I'd love to know if it works out)

[@jakecallum3051]

What did you use for the lens on the spartan helmet

[@commishenanigans]

This stuff here, it cuts like cardstock www.etsy.com/listing/193364395/flexible-metallic-visor-material Hope this reply wasn't too late for what you were working on, and good luck with your project

[@youtubemaster4282]

Did you use acrylic paint as the base coat?

[@commishenanigans]

Yup! I water it down a so it's fairly thin for my initial coat, and then build it up from there. Sometimes going straight on to plaster with thick acrylic paint causes them to separate and the paint peels off, but by watering it down the paint soaks in a bit to the plaster so you get a really good bond. I have used spraypaint in the past as well, but if you go that route make sure you've wiped down your plaster really well, and don't build it up too thick as you spray since it'll again have the chance of peeling. Good luck with your projects!

[@proptaku]

Don't mix plaster with your hand. The reaction is exothermic, so doing this with a bucket could give you burns. Also, always were gloves when applying, as plaster will corrode your skin... some mixtures are worse than others.

[@commishenanigans]

In my 15+ years of experience with plaster I've never had a problem with either of those issues, though of course people should wear safety gear to whatever degree they feel is necessary, and research the materials they are using. The particular types of plaster I called out in this video I have used to cast my torso, my face, and some hands, and have found its exothermic stage just pleasantly warm. Those instances aside though, with this technique you should not really be handling the plaster by the time it starts to warm, and with such small quantities being used the heat should be dissipating much more quickly than it builds thanks to its large surface area and low overall mass

[@christilane7859]

What type of expanding foam do you recommend?

[@commishenanigans]

Hi there! If you can still find Kwik Foam that's definitely my favorite. I stopped being able to find it at my local hardware stores though, and after some testing the Foam and Fill small gap filler from RedDevil seems like the best bet. It tends not to have huge bubbles after expanding, and also doesn't shrink or re-expand too badly after being carved either. (Also all versions of Great Stuff are my nemisis, since they never keep a consistent shape the way I want it to, but they're great if you're trying to fill a lot of space for cheap without doing any carving.) Hope this helps and good luck with your project!

[@wsamurai665]

Thanks for this now I'll know how I'll make my obito helmet for halloween :)

[@commishenanigans]

Sounds sweet, hope it comes out awesome!

[@kaoticr4zor641]

What do you use for the visor?

[@commishenanigans]

Hi there! This is the stuff I used in "gold", it's really cool and cuts like cardstock. The only downside is it only bends in one direction, so you can't make it dome out. Aside from that it's great stuff. www.etsy.com/listing/193364395/flexible-metallic-visor-material

[@gloriamontellano8763]

Does it matter what kind of paint you use?

[@commishenanigans]

Glo Games On sort of, but I don't think it's super specific. The main thing is not coating the paint too thickly otherwise it'll peel off. My favorite to use is cheap acrylic craft paint that I water down a little so the color soaks into the plaster a bit. Tempra paint will almost certainly crack once it's dry, and oil paint seems unnecessarily complicated. As far as spray paint goes there's no need for a specific type. When working with EVA foam you would need something that bonds to plastics for the best results, but plaster is very forgiving and will hold almost any pigment application as long as you seal it in the end

[@ruizmauro88]

What did you use to make the visor for it

[@commishenanigans]

I used this stuff www.etsy.com/listing/193364395/flexible-metallic-visor-material It behaves almost like cardstock to cut and bend, so it's great for simple curves. Also comes in a bunch of colors. The one I used for this helmet was the plain gold, though the gold iridium is a pretty cool option if you want to make things a little more colorful/dynamic. To look through it's kind of like greenish-tinted sunglasses

[@juansainz9516]

Can you carve a little bit after plaster

[@commishenanigans]

You can, but I wouldn't really recommend it. It gets hard to tell where the foam is, so probably you'll end up needing to put more plaster on after carving down past the top layer. If its a thick layer of plaster though, it should work fine. Just keep in mind plaster carves a bit like chalk, so it's a little more slow going than just carving the foam would be. Would be good for precise edges though!

[@jerichohartman2178]

I want To make my brother a head stone but I wanted to be a motorcycle do you think I can get a power wheel motorcycle and cut it in half and maybe fill the one side with plaster or mortar or how would I do it anybody please help me

[@commishenanigans]

Hey there, I missed this earlier but I'm so sorry for your loss. Cutting the power wheel in half might be tricky, but other than that filling it in should work okay as long as your goal is just to stabilize it and keep the plastic shell there. If you want just the stone in the shape of the motorcycle then I'd recommend something like a silicone cake mold that you can pour either plaster or cement into (cement would last longer). It might not be as big as the power wheel, but maybe could be used as the top of the stone? I hope this isn't too late and can help in some way

[@HolyFreakinDragonSlayer]

Also how do you prime it

[@commishenanigans]

Hi there, sorry I just saw this! To answer both your questions the plaster can definitely be used to fill gaps, though if you're worried about weight you can just use more spray insulating foam and carve it down to match. For a primer I just used a thin, watered down coat of the same acrylic paint I was using for the main painting so it soaked into the plaster a bit. I've also used spray paint primers though, so I'd say in general plaster is fairly forgiving to paint on. Just make sure you've wiped the dust off from sanding first and you should be good to go. Hope this helps and wasn't too late a reply!

[@johnnyjoestar2860]

Im makeing a halo mk5 blue helmet

[@hollycogswell6569]

can you only use plaster paris

[@commishenanigans]

As far as I know Plaster of Paris is just a name brand of plaster. Any kind of plaster with a 20-30 minute set time should work no problem, and people have recommended stucco as well, which is nearly the same thing as plaster, though I haven't gotten to try it myself. If you're asking about other types of surfacing methods in general I've used acrylic-latex caulking for things that needed to be textured and more durable, and I believe bondo would work out similarly to plaster (but be much more durable) though I haven't gotten to try that one yet either

[@creativework8148]

How my plaster started cracking ? On simple knock

[@commishenanigans]

Hi there! Plaster isn't super durable, so knocking it can crack it pretty easily. It's great for show, but not for heavy use. You can use more plaster to fix it, and then coat it with something more durable like plasti-dip or some sort of thin polyurethane coat to help make it more durable. Another option if you're looking to redo things is to coat it in Bondo. It has a similar look to plaster but it's much more heavy duty and very hard to crack. Sorry for the delayed reply, and I hope this helps!

[@ohitstakus8755]

Does plaster chip easily

[@daltonbryan653]

I looked it up bc i was curious too. It says it does, but there are things you can add to strengthen it or make it less prone to shattering.

[@Binglezone]

Is there a way to take off the cardboard?

[@commishenanigans]

Not really, or at least not cleanly that I know of. I've had people mention they had great luck with getting saranwrap off, so maybe wrapping the cardboard in that might work? Otherwise if finishing things cleanly is your worry some options I can think of would be putting the plaster over the cardboard to make it look cleaner and take paint better, or covering it with felt or something

[@Binglezone]

@@commishenanigans ok ty

[@carmenhill1852]

Do you have to use plaster?

[@commishenanigans]

CarmenHill Technically no, that's just my favorite way to do things haha. I've seen people do versions where they fill in any gaps and bubbles with more spray foam and carve it down again, then coat the whole thing with layers and layers of mod podge. Generally speaking I'm not a fan of how long that takes, or the end result, so I haven't done it myself, but it's definitely an option! If you're going for more durable I think you could use Bondo instead of plaster, but the same general technique. Since that takes a lot more time/effort to finish, and I haven't needed something that durable, I haven't tried that myself either. I would recommend a test piece with Bondo if you decide on that though, since I'm not sure if the foam would react to the chemicals in Bondo

[@ohitstakus8755]

Does plaster crack easily

[@commishenanigans]

Jaiden and Arana kind of, yes. As long as you don't drop it or bend it it'll be in good shape, but if you DO drop it it'll probably crack. I've done a few experiments with adding glue when mixing the plaster, or coating it with Plasti Dip and that helps a bit, but so far nothing makes it super strong. If you're going for durability I'd recommend checking out using Bondo. It's a lot more time consuming to sand and finish, but the end result is super strong. Plaster is great for speed and using on things that won't get knocked around, but if you think you'll be super rough on it it's probably best to go for something more durable

[@jamesdunson331]

Are you available for hire?

[@commishenanigans]

Hi there! I do still sometimes take commissions and would be happy to talk about your project more! Feel free to reach out to me at commishenanigans (@gmail.com), or message me privately on KZbin, whichever is easiest for you

[@mainemodelsplus.]

Sorry I'm Late to the party. Not that it matters much .. The explanation you used calling the mixing of plaster as "the dry island technique" might be generally OK, but the technical industry term used for this type of mixing is called "slaking" pronounced like "lake" with an "S" on the front or to be technical a long "A" vowel sound. No I'm not the proverbial Grammer master or rivet counter, I just like to help people be correct. It makes cross-industry communications far better. I bid you peace. Edit: The reason to slake plaster in water as opposed to mixing water with plaster, is that this allows for the maximum pot like. The plasterr does not begin to cure until one starts mixing.

[@commishenanigans]

Interesting, I've only heard slaking used as a reference to letting the plaster sit and absorb water before mixing (I think of it like slaking your thirst.) What I meant by the dry island technique is more about the ratio. Because of living in a humid area I've never mixed plaster by volume, using this technique instead to estimate the correct amount of plaster to water by letting the plaster sifted into the water slowly pile up until it forms a dry island that stays. Not a perfect process, since the shape of the bucket can mess with how quickly the island forms, but seems to work well enough, and it's how I was taught. Slaking is definitely part of the process though, since if you don't let it rest before mixing you also can get the wrong impression for how much plaster to water you have. I guess I wasn't super clear about that in the video though, since I ended up using basically exactly what was in my cup to mix with my water. Just a coincidence there haha, I was more trying to explain how to mix without measuring volume, and the term I've heard most for it

[@nikkib.5842]

I thought got plaster got hot when you added water?

[@commishenanigans]

Nikki B. It doesn't get hot until it starts to harden, but at that point you probably shouldn't be messing with it too much anyway, since chances are good it'll just crumble and crack instead of smoothing on nicely. Before it reaches that stage though it stays about room temperature

[@nikkib.5842]

Commishenanigans thanks so much! The pack I have makes it seem like it gets hot right after you add water. Guess we don't have to take it back now lol! I know nothing about any form of sculpting media and finishing things such as this and I was so confused... might have to try it now lol!

[@nikkib.5842]

Like... 2nd degree burn hot

[@commishenanigans]

Huh interesting, I've never heard of any type of plaster that does that before. I've also never had a problem with it getting so hot that it burns, even when it does warm up though. I have heard it's a possibility, but I've done face and body casts with plaster before no problem. Generally it just feels pleasantly warm to me. You could maybe try a test beforehand if you're still worried though. Also good luck with your project, I hope it turns out well!

[@sayurihernandez1780]

Me gusto mucho quisiere que me saludaras

[@commishenanigans]

Thanks, glad you liked it!

[@12vLife]

has anybody seen my favorite baseball cap?

[@commishenanigans]

Haha fear not! As long as you're careful you'll be able to save the hat (and your prop) with no damage! The perfectionist in me didn't want to show the inside of it afterward though because it needed much more work than I gave this one to make it pretty, since removing the cap reveals the hodgepodge of aluminum and tape I used to protect things... Probably safest to use your least favorite cap though lol

[@wolflahti412]

You mention rinsing off plaster. I would add DO NOT DO THIS IN YOUR SINK! Plaster dust mixed with water can reconstitute and then reharden, and you may need to replace your plumbing. Not fun.

[@commishenanigans]

Yes, great point, I should have called that out in the vid. I've never heard of plaster actually being able to reconstitute again (very interesting to find out), but even without that, the super fine dust could be problematic in the long run in a normal sink for sure

[@bluemight6144]

What do you use for the visor?

[@commishenanigans]

I used the gold flexible metallic visor from these guys www.etsy.com/listing/193364395/flexible-metallic-visor-material It's super easy to use and cuts like cardstock. The only downside is that it can only bend in one direction (essentially that means you can make an arch but not a dome), but that works well enough for the visor in this case. And all I did to attach it was trim it to fit then hot glue it in place.

[@bluemight6144]

Commishenanigans awesome thnx 😄