Folding Heat Shield to Cool My Workshop...Using Science!

[@WesleyTreat]

If you're a little unclear as to the function of the panels, here's a bit more explanation. They aren't intended to act as a seal against heated air. They're primarily a radiant barrier. As the metal of the door heats up, that heat radiates from both sides of the door as thermal radiation, primarily in the infrared part of the electromagnetic spectrum. That's what you feel when standing next to the door -- not hot air, but thermal radiation, which is absorbed by your body. It's the same transfer mechanism by which the sun heats the planet across the vacuum of space. Without the barrier, the thermal radiation emits into the shop, where it's absorbed by the floor, the tools, and all the other mass in the shop, heating the whole space and taxing the air conditioner. The radiant barrier instead reflects that radiation back toward the door, where it's re-absorbed by the metal, forcing it to eventually radiate out the other side. Hope that helps! Regarding any air between the door and the panels heating up and circulating, the effect is minimal. As one helpful commenter put it, "Air is actually a pretty poor conductor, and the conversion of radiant heat to convective heat isn’t as substantial as you’d think." Also, why didn't I do something to prevent the sun from hitting the door in the first place? Unfortunately, something like a roll-up shade or an awning (which would have to be pretty big) just isn't practical at the moment, but I may do something like that in the future.

[@tracybowling1156]

Wow! Smarty-pants! What an excellent explanation. 😀

[@NavinBetamax]

A double door !!! ( a soft insulating mat like waterproof cladding on the outside of the garage door !!! ) I am a retired sound engineer.

[@brodyjohnstancliff4822]

Hi! First time watcher, just glanced at your video history and subbed immediately ^_^ I'm an HVAC engineer. Your basic design, here, is pretty good, but you got a little bit of the physics slightly wonky. You seem like you'd probably be interested, so I thought I'd comment. I'm gonna overexplain a few things that I strongly suspect you (Wesley) already know because you're not the only person who will probably read this: First of all, when you think about insulation, heating, and cooling for a space, if you just think about temperatures, you're not getting the whole picture. Instead, you also wanna be thinking about the *rate* at which heat *moves* from one location to another. "Heat" is a type of energy that gives a substance a "temperature," but they're not the same thing. It can be tough to hold "heat" and "temperature" as different concepts in your head, so here's an example: tinfoil in the oven. Why doesn't tinfoil burn you when you pull it straight out of a hot oven? We know intuitively that, just like everything else in the oven, the tinfoil has to be the same temperature as the inside of the oven to begin with. That's the point of ovens! So, when your delicate, fleshy finger first makes contact with the foil, that foil's *temperature* is as hot as every other metal part inside the oven. The reason your fingers don't burn is that it takes very little *heat* to raise the *temperature* of a thin sheet of aluminum up to oven temperatures - so little heat that, when it all rushes into your finger as the aluminum's temperature equalizes with your body, you barely perceive it as "warm." Despite the layperson-aimed advertising, A/C units don't come in sizes based on "floor area" or "degrees." They come in heat-moving-rate sizes. When you think about this problem with the roll-up door, you don't wanna be thinking "the inside surface of this door gets too hot (temperature) on a hot day, so we should lower that temperature." You want to be thinking "heat moves too quickly through this door on a hot day, so we need to slow down that heat." When the shop heats up in the summer, it's because the walls are letting in heat faster than the A/C can push heat back outside. There are three main types of heat transfer worth talking about here: conductive, convective, and radiant: Conductive heat transfer is when heat is *conducted* through a physical material, or through contact between physical materials. Convective heat transfer is when a liquid or gas moves heat by physically rearranging the hot and cold parts of itself ("flowing") to move heat from one location to another. (You may be familiar with "convection" ovens that distribute heat more evenly by actively circulating the hot air inside.) Radiant heat transfer is kinda like magic; it's where heat energy is kinda "beamed" from one object to another as electromagnetic radiation without really impacting anything in between. It's tempting to think of "radiation" as being "that thing from nukes that'll kill you," but radiation includes all sorts of other phenomena as well: visible light, infrared light, UV light, FM and AM radio waves, WiFi waves, Bluetooth waves, microwaves, and so forth. I think most people would find it uncontroversial - perhaps even intuitively obvious - that heat goes from Hot Things to Cold Things, and not the other way around. It's also relatively intuitive that heat moves faster from a Hot Thing to a Cold Thing when the temperature difference between those two things is bigger. This is true whether we're talking about moving heat through conduction, convection, or radiation. The situation is simplest with conduction; twice as big a temperature difference between the Hot Side and the Cold Side means twice the rate of heat transfer between them. It's allllmost as simple with convection, though there can be some things about the way the liquid or gas moves that can make it not exactly proportional. Radiation is more complicated, but it still follows the basic "heat goes from hot thing to cold thing - bigger temperature difference equals faster heat transfer" rule. (For folks who aren't math-averse, the heat transfer rate is proportional to the difference between the fourth powers of the two temperatures, with both temperatures measured in degrees Kelvin or Rankine, not Fahrenheit or Celsius.) So! With all of that said: If we think about the barrier you've made (leaving out paint and adhesives for simplicity) we've got: outdoors > rollup door > a thin pocket of air > reflective foil surface > foam insulation > wood panel > indoors From an engineering perspective, we'd want to think about what the temperatures will be in between each of these steps, and what types of heat transfer will occur within each of these steps: The first temperature we care about is probably one of the most complicated ones - the temperature at the boundary between "outdoors" and "rollup door." On a hot day, the air might be 108°F, but anybody who's ever bought a windshield sunshade can tell you that the surface of the rollup door will probably be hotter than that if it's in direct sunlight. Most people have some intuitive understanding that, if the door was painted black, it would get hotter than if it was painted white. This is because white paint bounces back more of the sun's radiation in the visible light spectrum, and black paint absorbs more of it. As said in the video, making the door's surface reflective would bounce away even more of the incoming radiation, probably bringing the surface temperature closer to the 108°F "background" temperature of the air around it. Then, as the heat moves through the thin metal material of the rollup door, there would be a small temperature drop to the inside surface of the door. Most metals are so good at conducting heat that the temperature difference between the outside surface and the inside surface probably wouldn't be very big, but there would still be a difference - because, as we know, heat only goes from a (relatively) Hot Thing to a (relatively) Cold Thing. Then we get to the area where your (Wesley's) physics got a little wonky: the part where the heat traverses the thin pocket of air between the inside surface of the door and the reflective foil surface. In this air pocket, the primary form of heat transfer would be *convective* heat transfer. Specifically, the air next to the inside surface of the door would get warmer from that contact and begin to rise, rising until it hits the top of that air pocket, then turning to fall along the reflective foil surface, transferring heat into the foil surface as it goes until it hits the bottom of the air pocket and turns back up to rise, again. Air is a decent thermal insulator, all things considered; thin, sealed, circulating air pockets like this are why double- and triple-paned windows are better insulators than single-pane ones. Regarding your (Wesley's) radiation concept, there would be *some* small amount of heat radiation from the interior surface of the door to the reflective surface opposite, but not a lot. Moreover, the radiative heat transfer between the inside surface of the door and the foil would still go from the Hot Thing to the Cold Thing, overall. The reflectiveness of the foil is basically reducing the smallest piece of the overall heat-transfer-rate pie, there. Then there's the foam insulation and the wood panel. Wood is a better insulator than metal, but it's not great compared to purpose-built insulation foam. Insulation foam is also better than a sealed, thin pocket of circulating air. If you wind up wanting to juice up your design, here, you could do it by laying in another layer of foam of the same thickness. It'd literally be twice as insulating. Meanwhile, if we think about the test rig you built, it goes: outdoors > reflective surface > foam insulation > wood panel > indoors This puts the reflective surface facing the sun. There's a HUGE temperature difference between that sheet of foil and the literal surface of the sun, so making that surface reflective represents a reduction of a bigger piece of the overall heat-transfer-rate pie, compared to the location in the air pocket against the door. This makes the experiment not very representative of the final design. If you wanted a more representative test, you could seal up the outside surface of each of those test boxes with a sheet of metal comparable to that of the roll-up door. All that said, I think this is a great design that's probably going to serve you well, and I love the experimental approach you took for this design. I'm glad I found your channel!

[@tracybowling1156]

@@brodyjohnstancliff4822 Wow Brodyjohn! That was a paper you wrote there. It was very interesting. Can I ask a silly ? though? If he painted the outside door, let's say chrome, would that be even better than the insulation? Or did I totally screw up what you were saying? I also wanted to say that you definitely have a way with words. Do you write often?

[@brodyjohnstancliff4822]

@@tracybowling1156 Well, without running the actual numbers, and without knowing the direction (north/nouth/east/west) the door faces, it's tough for me to say for sure whether just a shiny paint job would be better than just the insulation on the inside, but "both" would definitely be better than just one of the other. (The direction matters because it changes the amount of direct sunlight the door would get on a hot day.) Also, thanks very much for the complement! Explaining engineering stuff to people who aren't engineers is a big part of my day job, so I get a lot of practice. ^_^

[@HomebrewHorsepower]

That little "I hope this thing stays put long enough for me to grab that tool" thing had me rolling. Totally something I do.

[@Stubones999]

did you see his subscribe tattoo around his waist?

[@MrJoegotbored]

The stare down just before that moment... intimidating the part into stillness.

[@glennburrow4364]

Ain't that just it, we figure out a solution to survive the heat just in time for the weather to drown us instead. Cheers from a fellow survivor of DFW.

[@linkinprk1981]

Mad props to your tattoo artist. very clean lines and A+ placement

[@nefariousyawn]

I am confused, did I miss the tattoo?

[@nefariousyawn]

I gather that I was distracted and missed a moment of clever editing, so I guess I just have to watch the whole video again. Oh well 😉

[@overamped23042]

23:55

[@mykalimba]

22:21 "...warms it up a little in here." LOL, I ℃ what you did there.

[@WesleyTreat]

I was embarrassed I didn't catch my wording till editing. 🤷‍♂️

[@nefariousyawn]

I was wondering if that was intentional, but he's too much of a Dad to just not acknowledge a good pun on camera.

[@WesleyTreat]

@@nefariousyawn It's true

[@thermmaloverload]

for an extra bonus - why not build a narrow pergola over the door on the outside. Louvres angled correctly, or a deciduous vine (grapes etc) will provide added shade in the summer and let sunlight in during winter. Any heat you can stop from hitting the door in the first place would make the insulation barrier work better.

[@aerobiotic]

And you could make wine with the grapes😊

[@whs2220]

Even an old school roll-up bamboo screen that shades the outside of the door to reduce the heat gain on the outside would make a big difference.

[@jamdiversified9698]

You could also put a roll-up blind on the outside of the door so it doesn't get as hot to begin with. There would still be some radiant heat coming through the metal door just with outside air temp alone so these internal panels would help block the majority of that. Another benefit of the outside blind is you can have the roller door up (and panels tucked away) and have a nice shaded view of the outside if the weather isn't too hot. That's if you used a shade-cloth type material for the blind that lets some light through still.

[@mushieslushie]

This is a good suggestion and something people don't realize about window blinds. Yes they are blocking the sunlight but they are still letting heat in, because the the sunlight is still heating the blinds which are on the inside. It's much better to shade the window on the outside.

[@willburke]

Huzzah for data! Also loved the moment of "clamp just out of reach, panel standing for now, I can grab it.... this will be fine..... YOINK!"

[@PrinceWesterburg]

My dad was in heating and ventilating after working n aircraft so I grew up with this stuff, I'd thoroughly recommend making a wooden cowel that went across the top of the door with an extractor blowing the hot convected air that will run up the door to the outside world. This will greatly reduce the hot air build up in the loft space. also, look at making a roof for outside that shields the doors from the sun - this will also keep the rain off when loading out during inclement weather.

[@harleypruett]

Love the irony of “The wood warms it up in here” 🤣

[@kevlarmenace]

Glad you went with the 1", it'll help during the summer *and* winter when the texan electrical grid fails :D

[@stuartkorte1642]

Glad you mentioned the air gap requirement for the radiant barrier. Very nice solution and it is a nice backdrop for taking photos or videos.

[@ivartillotson835]

This project is an excellent reflection of your skills.

[@Casey-511]

As a fellow North Texan who has struggled with this problem all summer (I remember the 108 degree days in July), I used EPS with the radiant barrier with magnets to hold it on... the magnets struggled at best and the tape or glue on the magnets would melt off due to the heat. You just handed me my next shop project with this beautiful solution. Storing the foam sheet when I want to open the doors SUCKS with magnets (10x4 sheets of foam like to blow away). I would buy you a tasty beverage if I bumped into out and about North Texas.

[@barry99705]

Nice! Getting a bowling alley vibe from those stars!

[@CMZneu]

Great video!!! speaking from experience one thing though you might want to consider painting the outside metal of the door the whitest paint you can find, i know it may seem like the silver metal would reflect a lot and it does compared to black paint but pure white is way better and its comparatively very cheap, as a general rule i find that the harder something is to stare at directly in full sun the less it's going to heat up. It's actually ridiculously amazing how much less heat something by being completely white, if everybody painted their roofs white so much energy would be saved in AC.

[@WesleyTreat]

Thank you! The door is already white, though.

[@thegentlemanmaker]

Multiple Wesleys! That’s definitely a score on the ‘cool points’ chart.

[@ddutton0]

Fellow North Texan here, this is a great idea! Keep up the great work!

[@WesleyTreat]

Thanks!

[@n00blike]

It will be cool to see how well this also works with cold weather.

[@jpsimon206]

Just wanted to mention that the pink stuff really is genuinely closed cell foam. I was too cheap to buy a new hot tub lid and made a DIY one out of this pink foam. It's going on in 10 years and it's in perfect condition but more impressively it is still virtually weightless. It has not absorbed any water at all and if you've ever owned a hot tub you know that the $600 factory covers end up a hundred pounds after 3 years. Can't recommend it highly enough for that purpose. Originally re-stuffed the original lid but eventually replaced with a one piece attached to plywood with a pulley and LED lighting on the underside. It's actually quite a bit more efficient than the factory cover because I have two layers of foam, one that fits in the cutout and the second layer on top. Makes her a very good seal that doesn't require a straps or anything for wind

[@The_Bearded_Lady]

neat idea :)

[@benwhittle7204]

Did not think I’d watch the full 27 minutes, and yet here I am. Great vid, great job. Thank you very much for showing us.

[@aerobiotic]

Great solution. Glad you are still alive... Cause I am itching to make one of those staircases!

[@jackwilliamson1929]

Just a curtain outside with two of the Harbour Freight 10 x 8 black shade tarps using a rope or cable as a curtain rod between a couple cleats or brackets will cut the temperature on the outside of the door substantially. The shade tarps are grommeted already and relatively cheap and durable, just add some magnets to the bottom if desired but they let plent of air through and work great as ac unit shades also. If Im the hundredth person to say this stuff then disregard this comment. Enjoying your videos though.

[@C3DPropShop]

Just here to feed the algorithm. Lovely finished project!

[@Christian-cg3py]

How mush for your mini boat pre-Assembled with all the equipment

[@benmanuel3502]

This was a super satisfying/inspiring video for anyone trying to get a workshop together! Love the "numbered objectives" format, thank you for another great video!

[@rettgarner819]

I live in Hurst and have done nearly the same in my garage. Thankfully I have an east facing garage door, but it doesn't matter much, as I go multiple clothes changed a day when I'm working out there. A window unit in the wall helped a lot!

[@sharonnewmanehrlich7203]

I have an issue in my bedroom with my wall facing full sun most of the day. Can I do this in my bedroom wall? I don’t mind putting it on top of the wall do you think that might help? The room gets incredibly hot and I have to use a window unit in addition to my central air because of course this is the room I sleep in and I can’t change it for another it’s the largest one

[@rettgarner819]

@@sharonnewmanehrlich7203 you mean a window unit in the wall? I should of clarified, I put it in an unused door. If you want to put an a/c in that room, I'd recommend a mini-split. That would keep the room as cold as you wanted. Otherwise if you want to cool the room, the only solution is shade, heat reflection paint outside or more insulation...

[@bytesizedengineering]

I just installed one of those pink fiberglass insulation panel kits on my garage door. I was disappointed in what little difference it made. You have given me new inspiration and hope for a cooler garage! Great video as always!

[@WesleyTreat]

Thanks! One video I watched recommended foil-covered panels that fit in the spaces in the garage door, with the foil toward the door, but big enough that they curve out away from the door to create the necessary air gap.

[@BliffleSplick]

Very nicely done! The other problem with using magnets is that if they get hot enough they lose their magnetic properties until they cool - which is used in rice cookers

[@Maaad-maaan]

Great idea and execution. Gonna find a way to add this to our new house. What I would add to this is a screen for hot but windy days to prevent bugs coming in. A shade or carport to shade the door. Trees or tall bushes to shade the driveway, house, or door. Make the barrier a roll down to save space.

[@LerrySanders]

I miss the table saw that made the Jetson noises

[@jhamby8773]

That’s a really clever solution. Great idea!

[@janebrown3587]

Wesley Treat, you give the best science!! 👍

[@wayneheigl5549]

wesley you are a very smart guy, it is a pleasure to watch you solve a problem using science. like you did with your loft lift . you make great videos that people can really get something out of and fallow along. there a lot of videos on youtube were people buy and not make things that they say they did make, then try to show you some thing about it and how to use it when they don't know them selves. it becomes a waste of time and an insult to your intelligence. please keep making your great videos mr wesley

[@terristroh3965]

This is brilliant! I hope other folks with metal roll up doors hear about these.

[@BubbaPat]

I too live in north Texas. I work out of my garage with the metal door facing north west and my exterior wall getting a FULL western facing brick. Plus, since I live on a cul-de-sac that gets LOTS of sun. Thanks for the video. I've also become a fan to the brand AtticFoil so I'll be mixing their product with your results.

[@WesleyTreat]

A couple of the links in the video description are videos by AtticFoil. They do a great job of explaining the effectiveness of a radiant barrier and the need for an air gap.

[@deziomakes]

Wesley, you are killing it. I've had good luck with rattle paint gradients for signage using Montana cans. Also, you stole my signature move at 15:00

[@timmymartin317]

Well done sir! A cool shop is a happy shop!

[@archbuilder71]

Thanks for mentioning the air gap on the radiant barrier. That gets missed all the time.

[@datityte]

I love the knowledge and the information you put into your, useful, videos. Thank you and I wish I was your neighbor so I could work with you on your projects.

[@apoc2500]

I was thinking the same thing. That charisma that speaks volumes. And his humour is spot on with mine lol

[@davebauerart]

Nice work, super functional with the classic Wesley Treat style.

[@Qeelin]

Long time viewer and fellow north Texas resident. KZbin finally started suggesting your videos to me again and I'm so glad. I've binged all the ones I missed over the past few months. I hope to one day have enough money to get one of your signs made. I've always loved the Googie style and need one for our computer shop in a small Texas town. Keep up the good work. Your channel should be over 1 million subs by now, I just don't get the algorithm most of the time.

[@williammaxwell1919]

If you make shroud around the door including the drum (it would need to project further from the drum) and add doors ti the shop side, you can get a better containment of the heat. This also creates a plenum, which you can then exhast to the outside further increasing the thermal preformance.

[@MrLittleman777]

Love the content. Excellent presentation. Nice shop. Keep it coming please. 👍

[@almagill]

Aw this video landed at exactly the right moment :) Currently looking at insulating a 14 sq ft roof and weighing up the options. Foil backed foam held a few inches below the roof surface (single thickness of 1950s 'cement with mineral fibre' corrugated roofing) held in place by batons attached to the roof trusses currently looking like the preferred option. Your immense door panels reminded me of the sort of stage flats my dad built in the 60's, especially when you added the huge stars :) Fab!!

[@WesleyTreat]

My degree is in theatre, with a big background in tech. I've built many a flat! 🤓

[@sgsax]

Was just going to say, this construction reminded me of what I was told were called Hollywood flats. #techiesrule

[@ChrisAbbey]

@@sgsax yup, those are Hollywood (aka Studio) flats alright! I was laughing my arse off at that fact when @Wesley Treat read the stickers from the Luan maker about which side was the front as that is super important when making a flat. Seeing his degree comment above (I have a tech theatre degree too!) explains why he found it just as funny. :)

[@jeanroyster-hills7387]

that looked so gratifying,

[@kenc2257]

What a great build--the change in temp is certainly very much appreciated. The folding screen will probably also help keep the heat INSIDE during the colder winter months. [not sure why some people think the space-saving ship's stairs (or ladder) you built are especially hazardous--they've been in use for decades]

[@curbstalker6577]

This is outstanding

[@susan_halla]

Bonus: The mirrors will allow you to more adequately ponder your relative cuteness vs. Matthias. Great build - love every bit of it! The boop on your lab assistant’s nose was a gem.

[@wayneheigl5549]

that is a totally beautiful job , start to finish. beautiful and functional .

[@mickspencer4171]

Love watching this guy work.

[@bkbinj6320]

Very cool project that makes for a cooler shop. What about a roll up shade over the outside of the door to eliminate the sun shining on the door?

[@justiciaparaespana7236]

A hanging exterior roof over the metal door will help you to cool a little the workshop. Greetings from Spain.

[@HyperactiveNeuron]

Great video and your 100% on the science which I love to see. I appreciate that you actually did some research on the subject. My garage door is insulated BUT the manufacturer didn't leave an air gap. Instead they just glued foam insulation too the door which experienced direct sun for most of the day. It's usually only a few degrees cooler in the garage than outside. At least it's not in the sun 🤣 I laugh because otherwise I'll cry. Also because of local building codes, builders here so not insulate the walls not facing the living space or above garages so insulating the door doesn't have a huge effect. They save about $100 on insulation (they but I'm bulk) and our cars, tools, things and ourselves suffer 🥺

[@WesleyTreat]

You only really need an air gap if there's radiant barrier involved, but I get what you're saying. The heat is brutal!

[@craigbond7877]

My garage door faces west and I can't work in my garage shop with outside temps around 106 here in Austin. Very informative and entertaining. I enjoy the jokes as we seem to have similar tastes in humor. I'll check out dune more if your videos.

[@Nono-hk3is]

It works a treat! A Wesley Treat!

[@zeroy]

Excellent build, very ingenious, you also now have a triple french folding mirror for the yeti, should he ever stop by!

[@kristianmorris9738]

I need to do the same in my workshop. Great vid!

[@electronsmove]

I have this exact same issue in my shop. I had the same idea you had, but first I was going to hang a light colored drop cloth on the outside like a shower curtain that slides to the side to open the door. My door is dark green so the lighter color would make a big difference.

[@michaelovitch]

You should paint the outside of the door white,you would reflect a lot of heat. A white blackout outside curtain,would also do a lot to lower temps on the door. The point is to not get steel to warm up,not so much to avoid it to transmit its heat to the inside.

[@WesleyTreat]

The door is white. An exterior barrier isn't practical at this time. 👍

[@cpzmelbs]

The door was already white as far as I could tell. He also mentioned that in the video. But regardless, it’s a good point in general. However anyone following your suggestion may be disappointed with the result, given it’s still going to be pretty unbearable inside the shop once the white door has absorbed all the heat possible

[@michaelovitch]

@@cpzmelbs "bare steel door" is what the says. How can the door can heat up if it's in the shadow of an exterior curtain ? It will be at ambient temperature,not more. That's is what shadow is doing,avoiding heat to be absorbed.

[@andyb7754]

Very interesting and informative video. Looks great and works great! Good job. Thank you for the video.

[@garagemonkeysan]

I hope those stairs didn't murder you. Great video. Cool doors and science project. Mahalo for sharing! 🙂🐒

[@flannel7977]

You’re freaking hilarious. Definitely tuning into this channel!

[@jutulporten]

I can hear Thomas Dolby singing: "HE BLINDED ME WITH SCIENCE!"

[@ckm-mkc]

Beautiful door, going to remember this if we ever move to a place with giant floor to ceiling windows... Those types of stairs are extremely common in the Netherlands - they don't seem to have a higher death rate as a result of this....

[@jameskelly1680]

NASA uses multi-layer insulation. The new Webb space telescope uses 5 layers of mylar, separated by a foot or so of vacuum. Each layer gets them down almost 100 degrees C. If you had the ability to space out the mylar sheeting or put in multiple layers, you'd get even better effectiveness. It would be really interesting if you could build another set of these and put them on the OUTSIDE of the structure, and reflect the sunlight before it gets to the metal. Really interesting project!

[@WorkshopGreg]

Motion tracked tat. Nice. Always nice when a project comes together and solves a problem.

[@joe5938]

Have you done anything to stop the chimney effect that's happening between the two doors? Since the heat is getting through the first door it would build up between the two and pour out the top into the shop. You might be able to add some brush type weatherstripping to the top and bottom.

[@WesleyTreat]

As another commenter put it, "Air is actually a pretty poor conductor, and the conversion of radiant heat to convective heat isn’t as substantial as you’d think." The effect would be minimal. The larger contributor to heat loss through air is the lack of a tight seal around the roll-up door, which can't really be achieved. But, it's not that big a deal. It's not something I'd put up with in a home, but this is a workshop and you just kind of have to put up with that sort of thing.

[@joe5938]

@@WesleyTreat That's true and I guess now that you've gotten rid of the giant radiating panel most of the rest of the heat that's coming in will go up to the high ceiling and your AC will stay down where you are making the shop at least feel a lot more comfortable.

[@stuartpurdue]

Love your videos, but I do miss the table saw sound effect 🤣

[@ronin2963]

This is fantastic! I know what I am doing next

[@travisg1759]

I have that same door and in north Texas too. I used 4x8x3/4" foam board with the foil and taped them together similar to how you did yours. It does make a HUGE difference. I used a FLIR camera and it was very easy to visualize the temperatures.

[@WesleyTreat]

I very much wanted to order a FLIR camera to show the difference, but I couldn't justify the cost for another toy to play with. 🤓

[@BrooksMoses]

@@WesleyTreat : Get an Armor 9! It's a nice inexpensive water-and-dust-proof FLIR camera that happens to also make phone calls. :)

[@1lupus]

LOL my Galvo iron workshop here in Oz gets a bit hot as well. In Summer it gets between 50 to 60C in there even with the doors open and the pedestal fans running. In your scale that is 122 to 140. I haven't bothered with insulating, it is easier to just go fishing and wait for the evening to get the jobs done.

[@dangerrangerlstc]

Like the star bursts. Kinda that 60s/70s vibe.

[@DanStone1025]

Great idea. Turned out very nice. Oh, I love your stairs...so those others can beat feet.

[@barthanes1]

Bonus huge vanity mirror.

[@gatekeeper65]

That was a great way to sneak that "SUBSCRIBE" reminder in there. And me mentioning it in the comments is a sneaky way to remind people they need to subscribe. 😁

[@wayneheigl5549]

i love your computer router table, very nice.

[@SchysCraftCo.]

Hopefully that helps. Keep up the great craftsmanship and hard work my friend. Keep making. God bless.

[@UnwelcomeGuestVideos]

Great video Wesley! Love the star pattern on this as well. Gotta have those final finishes.

[@WesleyTreat]

Thanks!

[@reflectionsofservice784]

Loved every minute- i dont need one here on Whidbey Island, but just watching your process makes me smile!

[@christopherboyd7335]

If you could rig up a water spray/mist line to spray the outside of the door every few minutes/a few times per hour, You would remove a lot of heat from the door due to evaporation. It would drop the temperature of the door quite significantly.

[@frijoli9579]

14:55 was my favorite part, beside the testing phase. lol

[@SteveKuznetsov]

I love your analytical approach to this, along with the great commentary and video! Just got this suggested in my feed and you've got a subscriber out of me already!

[@keithspencersr.6806]

Great job

[@wayneheigl5549]

its a work of art wesley, beautiful

[@DesignMakeFix]

Another good one!! I liked the data, the maths and the simplicity of this build. I lost your channel a year ago, I am glad I found it again. N.B: I hope you don't have dry grass outside, not fun to open the door and forget those mirrors shining to the neighbours :-)

[@EnlightenedSavage]

A large overhang coming off the front of the garage I've done the same thing and also would give you more covered area.

[@WesleyTreat]

Not practical at this time. 👍‍

[@blizatrex]

A great quality of life upgrade for you and a good backdrop for projects.

[@siggyincr7447]

Turned out real nice. The only things I could think to add would be that adding an awning on the outside of the building will make a huge difference as well, especially considering you said it was a south facing door. Even a fairly small one will keep mid-day sun off the door and keep the outside face probably a good 20 degrees cooler around noon. Also, the face of the heat shield facing the shop could be covered in rockwool or some other sound deadening material. Wood working power tools tend to make loads of noise and the difference that sound deadening panels can make is kind of shocking.

[@WesleyTreat]

Thanks! Please see the pinned comment regarding an awning.

[@siggyincr7447]

@@WesleyTreat There is no pinned comment.

[@WesleyTreat]

Ah, KZbin. Consistent in its inconsistency. It's been pinned for the last 4 days, then suddenly it's not.

[@btd2516]

Possibly painting the outside of the door a bright white would help a little more to reflect the heat. Also one of my nephews has steps like that and I have fallen on those damn things more than once. Fortunately the bathroom is downstairs.

[@tracybowling1156]

Ok. I'm done watching and if I were you, I'd be tickled pink. You are a great builder! And I wanted you to know that I notice the little things you do. You NEVER fail to make me laugh!

[@Radio_Zombie]

Hey Wesley! thanks for your videos and your little science project ;) please be safe working - I saw you working with gloves on on rotating-machinery (in this case the table saw) You likely know this, but its more dangerous than working on it without gloves. The fabric can catch and cause because of that a way more severe injury. Pretty much any rotating machinery: no gloves if at all possible. And if its for some reason hazardous material, there are gloves that are made to "break" in a way they don't catch. Please be safe! /end over-protection mode

[@WesleyTreat]

Thanks! True about gloves, but more apt for something like a drill, where your hand gets pulled in, causing damage that wouldn't occur if you had brushed against the chuck with a bare hand. Brush against a saw blade and you're screwed, anyway. Without the gloves, I was getting splinter after splinter from that cheap wood. 👍

[@UnconventionalMetal]

Another fabulous video, and your production quality is amazing.👌

[@clydebalcom3679]

Anything is better than bare metal. I feel your pain, as I live in Oklahoma. Just up the road, Brother.

[@user-tv5dt3nm9y]

I believe the silver stuff needs an air space on the hot side to be most effeective. A permanent cloud or awning outside over the door would be very effective.

[@WesleyTreat]

There's an air gap between the panels and the door. 👍

[@sailormouthdotorg]

Very nice, especially the finishing touches. I’m not too far away and added bubble wrap radiant barrier to the ceiling of 20’x20’ carport for when work spills out of garage workspace. I get a 10 degree drop and what a difference it makes.

[@TomsBackyardWorkshop]

Im building my shop soon and it will have 2, 10ftx10ft roll up doors. I had the foresight to put them on the north side of the building however it is not unusual for temp in my town to reach over 120 F. I will have to do some experimentation to see if something like this will have much effect.

[@FearsomeWarrior]

Similar thing with price when I picked up a 4x8 pink sheet but I was buying for track saw cutting mat. 3/4 and 1 inch were same price.

[@teddermachineworks]

Upvote for Matthias…dude digs deep!!

[@randyanderson2245]

Thanks for this video. I went ahead and subscribed too. We bought a new house, and I'm looking for ideas of how to separate my workshop from the cars parked in the garage. I like your idea to make a foldable wall/divider to keep the sawdust down. I may use your same technique just going horizontally with it. Id like to try it on my traditional house garage door. Id just have to make sure the motor could pull the additional weight etc.