Follow me and learn something: Pre-drywall inspection, April 3rd 2023

How to get it built right: 5122143639651....
It's a beautiful day in this neighborhood, a beautiful day for a neighbor.
A few shortcuts for yalls shortcutting convenience:
Roof to wall flashing, where you at?: 1:20
Check out those popped pockets: 4:00
What ISN"T allowed for fireblocking: 5:04
Dang plumbers thinking they're carpenters: 6:02
I-joists not blocked: 6:45
Y'all know what the APA is?: 7:50
Truss busted: 8:35
Single top plate shear wall: 10:00

[@diggingupnorth3453]

Pretty hilarious they allow that "thermo ply" shit to be on a shear wall. 3 inch spacing will not mean SHIT on the cardboard. ive never sheathed a house with less than 1/2 inch advantec. usually we use 5/8

[@richardcollejr.5121]

At least you don't have to cut it just lap over the other. It's only a 1/8" siding covers it

[@TB-ni4ur]

FYI, you don't want your garage header to span the entire length of wall unless it is passing over a strongwall or some other type of solid shear-brace. Doing so creates a hinge in the wall that allows racking. What you want is king studs at both ends of the header to span the out of plane loading vertically from the foundation to the floor diaphragm. Once that load is in the diaphragm, it gets supported by the building's shearwalls. As far as gravity loading from the structure above, the trimmers should have been designed to transfer those loads to the foundation.

[@ammomags9399]

That triple LVL is bearing on the window header on the outside wall. The window header appears to be dimensional lumber. That looks like an issue to me. Would love to see the plans showing that as acceptable.

[@berg8970]

I was thinking the same thing.

[@rodrod383]

in west Texas in a place like Lubbock that mold on the wood would be begging to be somewhere else and would never be an issue, but even in Austin I would have concerns about that and want it properly treated and killed off.....in Houston hell your house might be a mushroom farm in 2 weeks

[@constructivainspections]

I think it's 19.5% for mildew to grow and something like 24% for macrofungal growth. That's the mushrooms that actually deteriorate wood.

[@MegsCarpentry-lovedogs]

Always look forward to your inspections. Learning a lot. 🙏😊🇨🇦

[@richardcollejr.5121]

Two i beams are supposed to be sandwiched together with a 2X 10 for a header same thing with doubles for openings when butting an i joist to another you fill the gap with 3/4 plywood

[@TB-ni4ur]

@11:00 Something is fishy with those two interior shearwalls. If they are indeed shearwalls then they would have to have a shear transfer mechanism to the roof diaphragm, otherwise they would not be supporting anything. With trussed roofs this would usually be an axial truss aligned over the top of the wall. In lieu of that they would have to build a framed infill wall in the attic that also gets shearwall treatment.

[@Hunter-yc4xi]

If I were to build a house, it might be worth it to hire someone such as yourself to be on the job full time so that all these problems are nipped in the bud from the onset! At least thru all rough in! Sure, it would add cost to the job, but the peace of mind would be worth it!!

[@59seank]

@5:58 Is having that triple beam resting over the top of a window OK? Do you have the building plans to check if the house is made to plan? What are the chances that the header over the garage will be repaired properly?

[@constructivainspections]

I looked at that pretty closely. It is stacked on a top plate, then a big header, then the jack studs and adjacent studs in the wall; my thought was that it was ok. And no, the builders rarely leave me the plans, unfortunately. Most hate 3rd party inspectors like myself.

[@drbichat5229]

That can’t be okay. Good eye

[@Clark-Mills]

Very educational and entertaining (as usual); thank you! :)

[@mikedsjr]

Thanks. I found the I beam info because of the info on the beam. What sights usually govern how specifically it’s built. Code doesn’t usually tell you where every nail goes.

[@constructivainspections]

Trusjoist 210s these ones I believe. The code doesn't even touch I-joists. They just say to see what the mfg says.

[@porleg]

You ever look at old buildings ?

[@constructivainspections]

Yeah I do a lot of older homes as well. Is that something you would be interested in seeing?

[@celewign]

@@constructivainspectionsyes!!!

[@richardcollejr.5121]

The gable end is a dead load wall. But with cardboard walls it's no longer a dead load

[@ra4yu]

im not saying they did it here but if that flooring got rained on that 1/8 gap can easily close up. I find if there was no gap and exposure to weather then the seam would actually raise up proud

[@constructivainspections]

Exactly. I see buckled edges all the time.

[@alllivesmatter627]

1:40 it is best for the head flashing to be directly against the structure and then the house wrap lap over top of it. We do that on top of putting flashing tape over the head lap to help seal it up even more. Having the head lap flashing on top of the house wrap can give you problems later on. I have seen Tom when the water got behind the house wrap and then the windows or doors would leak. I’ve had to come behind numerous contractors to fix leaks because they had put the head lap over top of the house wrap. And your rafters. I did not notice any rafter ties. Do y’all not have to have them there. Here in North Carolina we do. 6:06 the beam does not look like it has enough jack studs under it. A rule of thumb that usually works is count up the number of studs in the open span and then divide that up between the two ends. Example if you would have 12 studs in the open area, then you would put six jacks under each load bearing end. 6:16 not only do they not have the gap it does not look like it is nailed correctly. Normally the butt ends are nailed every 3 to 4 inches. 9:32 do y’all check for moisture content before the insulation and drywall is installed. If the moisture is too high than drywall and insulation should not be installed until it has come down. If I remember correctly, I think it’s supposed to be below 16%. I may be off there. I do not remember exactly. If I remember my numbers correctly mold can start growing if the moisture content is 22% or above and can continue growing until the moisture content is below 18%. Another problem you will have it. The moisture is too high is the fact that you will have nail pops in the drywall as to dry out. As the studs dry out, they shrink and will cause the drywall fasteners to pop out. I also noticed a lot of the homes you inspect are built on slabs. I am very much against a house being built on a slab. They are an absolute nightmare when doing any type of remodeling or additions where you have plumbing involved. Also, they are almost impossible to keep bugs out of a house, no matter The type or frequency of pest treatments you get. One of the thing I have noticed on inspections you have done is the sheeting where they do not cover the bottom or top plate. Here they have to meet the top and bottom plate. The nailing has to be every 3 inches and offset (shear nailing). And if the plywood is not long enough to go from the bottom plate to the top plate, then the butt joints have to have blocking and be shear nailed there also

[@chrisdaniel2759]

Post more videos please! Love it!

[@michaelm3355]

Always makes me laugh to watch these. Yet also feel sorry for the buyers of the homes that don't pay for predrywall inspections. What is your opinion of that beam at 5:54 over your shoulder resting on top of what appears to be a window? If three studs and a fourth cutout/repaired stud is possibly compromised structurally then that configuration is really suspect.

[@MoneyManHolmes]

It looks like a doubled up 2x4 sitting on top of a double up 2x6 for the header, but it could just be the video compression.

[@constructivainspections]

Yeah I took a good look at that and @MoneyManHolmes is right, it is a stack of wood making its way around that window en route to the foundation. I wasn't too worried about it. Good eye by the way.

[@ChannelOne-1]

Rookie DIY framers. A property trained first year framer would know these things!

[@dorhocyn3]

I never want to buy a brand new house ever again,

[@constructivainspections]

At least with a new house you get a warranty!

[@TheScottbb1]

You can always buy a lot outside of a subdivision and design the place yourself with the help of a designer / architect. Then you can be the project manager and inspector (not municipal inspector - they will still have to come by). That’s what I did and also did much of the work myself including electrical and plumbing. Saved so much money. If you can’t do the work you can at least research the best contractors in your area.

[@juzoli]

They are still better than old houses, which didn’t even need to meet code and got no inspection:) Just get it inspected, whether it is new or old.

[@marktemplin1159]

Masonite has a long burn time fire rateing than OSB,, and the holes from the wall up into the ceiling cavity was fire caulked, by NFPA, that is the way to do it

[@constructivainspections]

I'll have to check that out; I didn't see it listed in the IRC. R302.11.1 Fireblocking materials. Except as provided in Section R302.11, Item 4, fireblocking shall consist of the following materials. 1.Two-inch (51 mm) nominal lumber. 2.Two thicknesses of 1-inch (25.4 mm) nominal lumber with broken lap joints. 3.One thickness of 23/32-inch (18.3 mm) wood structural panels with joints backed by 23/32-inch (18.3 mm) wood structural panels. 4.One thickness of 3/4-inch (19.1 mm) particleboard with joints backed by 3/4-inch (19.1 mm) particleboard. 5.One-half-inch (12.7 mm) gypsum board. 6.One-quarter-inch (6.4 mm) cement-based millboard. 7.Batts or blankets of mineral wool or glass fiber or other approved materials installed in such a manner as to be securely retained in place. 8.Cellulose insulation installed as tested in accordance with ASTM E119 or UL 263, for the specific application.

[@marktemplin1159]

@@constructivainspections Masonite is a brand name for cement board🤔👍

[@marktemplin1159]

So at least as far as know, and have had to deal with it,,, non flammable ,such as drywall, Mason board, and a few others like rock will, have a longer fire burn rate than OSB, but I believe, 2" solid lumber is the same as 2 layers of 5/8 dry wall🤔 idk it's what the inspectors in Harrisburg PA generally go by

[@marktemplin1159]

@@constructivainspections in my area ,,I'd probably be asked to stuff some Rick will in the hole the wires come threw the cement board,,,

[@marktemplin1159]

@@constructivainspections oh also Harrisburg is on the 2017 code,, which I know some codes change, and many are the same they have been for decades,, but Harrisburg is getting bigger and bigger on fire alarms in even small 3 unit apartment buildings, and more and more icky about new construction,,, which is one area, I agree with,,,, the slower it burns the more time the rescue people have to save your home 👍👍 I'd like to see more on these development homes with huge attics have more fire walls, and double 5/8 ceilings and walls around any garage, as well as a fire wall between any attic above a garage, and the rest of the structure

[@noticethenostalgia8733]

@Constructiva Inspections, Will you put mildew on your reports? I am building a house myself and I have a ton of mildew, it was a rainy winter and I am just now finishing the final framing and we are close to dry in. If you do put it on your reports, what is your recommendation for fixing the mildew? I hear from so many other contractors that it is ok to leave as long as the house is properly dried in, it eventually goes away. What are your thoughts? I am considering doing an RMR-86 treatment once final framing is done. Thanks for all the great content!

[@constructivainspections]

Typically I don't include mildew unless it is really bad. In which case I simply call for further evaluation and remediation as needed. That is because I don't have a mold license and here in Texas you can't even say that word on a report if you don't have a license. My understanding is that mildew needs a minimum of 19.5% moisture level to grow in wood. That is why boards are stamped with KD19...Kiln dried to 19%, just under the mildew growth threshold. So one little rain and boards can start growing mildew. Dried out, supposedly it becomes inert. Not dead, but dormant. So no spore growth. Just don't let it get wet again!

[@noticethenostalgia8733]

@@constructivainspections Great information! Thank you so much! Once I am finally dried in and have fans running for a while ill check the percentages and make a decision to remediate or take the chance. I really appreciate it! Luckily I ordered all KD but I live in the Northwest. Lets just say my lumber has gotten wet... a lot this winter lol.

[@ianforeman4377]

I don’t get the loss of quality for the sake of maybe two extra rolls of the covering per building. 🤷‍♂️ I always remember BOLTR who talks about doing a job once instead of revisiting it. “ buy once. Cry once”

[@rogerdevero8726]

You're a natural teacher Casey; we always learn a great deal from your videos. Thank you Romans 10:9-10

[@NewBuildingInspector]

At 5:33 ish would there be 1/2 or 5/8 gypsum there? Is that why firefoam wasnt above the splice plate?

[@jaybuilder8298]

Any advice for the average person doing a home project that should have an inspection? Most people skip inspections because of the bad comments or experience we hear from other people!

[@nicomilanes3710]

When regulation criminalizes cardboard sheathing? When?!

[@pcatful]

10:00 2nd floor shear wall--tie to roof structure? What use is a shear wall if it doesn't go to the top? the 5:10 If the garage ceiling is gyp. bd. you don't have to worry about fireblocking the penetrations over the wall (only the wall to floor penetrations). And the ceiling is going to be gyp. bd. for a fire barrier below the second story. Who knows what that Masonite was there for. Maybe so they could come back and seal off horizontal air leakage, which may help insulation but not required. 10:30 I just had to laugh at the shear wall plate "connection."

[@6Diego1Diego9]

Are you a fan of Cyfy inspections 😅

[@constructivainspections]

Cy's got balls. I would never name a builder on a bad job because I find issues with all builders' work. I love Cy and more power to him, but I couldn't name and shame like he does!

[@mikesworld1921]

Great video! The quality of the builders work is kinda scary.

[@Salyers-Family-2004]

I was wondering about the I joists being cut out for the HVAC duct.

[@JoshMolleurisawesome]

Sometimes they are precut and the holes for ducting can be knocked out

[@Salyers-Family-2004]

@@JoshMolleurisawesome Wow! I’ve never seen that before in KY. I’ve saw smaller knockouts up to maybe 1”-2” but nothing that big. Just doesn’t look right but I’m just an HVAC guy. Haha.

[@constructivainspections]

How do yall pass duct through 2" holes?

[@Salyers-Family-2004]

@@constructivainspections We don’t. Those are used for plumbing, electric, etc. Sometimes the plumber cuts larger holes but not 6-8” in an I joist.

[@jlr3636]

The lack of shear on the front of the garage is mostly the fault of the architect and engineer. Shear panels need backing on ALL edges, the garage door hdr extending all the way to the corner would help, there still is not enough shear, and there should be four hold downs across the front garage door wall … there just isn’t enough wall. What state is this in, sure hope don’t have earthquakes or high winds. You need more shear than they have for a single story.

[@spinkey4842]

makes me happy i ain't buying a house anytime soon. what the hell is goin on in residential? tighten up boys

[@celewign]

How would they fix that beam in the garage? They can’t tear down the whole garage…

[@Salyers-Family-2004]

Should be an easy fix. Shouldn’t take long according to the inspector near the end of the video. 🤣😂

[@nonyadamnbusiness9887]

OSB subfloor? None of the rest matters. It's a complete fail right there.

[@treediddy]

Your diligence and power of observation continue to impress me. Also, the kind and number of issues you identify continue to dismay me. i’m wondering if your videos are representative of the inspections you don’t record and share.

[@aaap3875]

Im horrified how half assed and cheap new houses are....wtf...!

[@MyCousinVini]

You posted duplicate video.?

[@MyCousinVini]

Something was weird. I even remember the can of soup on the floor.

[@constructivainspections]

Ah, I actually filmed the one about speaking spanish in that same house!

[@AJTarnas]

"i'm sure your neighbor's house was perfect before they put up the siding" 😂 your tone of voice is a bit of a mystery to me... you must be making sarcastic statements but your delivery is too diplomatic.

[@budmanzoom4441]

Seems like you always get the worse built homes I've ever seen. I think these Contractors should lose their licenses.

[@tw3235]

Who's the builder?

[@BigJohnson1566]

Terrible craftsmanship, please dime out the builder.