Foolproof Threaded Insert Installation

[@afjer]

I don't have a drill press, but figured out a way to align the inserts with the hole without a jig thanks to watching your video. Thanks.

[@TNtoolman]

No matter how old I get I seem to learn something every day...Thanks Jay!

[@DirtFarmerJay]

Well, I'm glad I'm not the ONLY ONE getting older! You are so welcome Porsche924Tim. Keep watching. We are so grateful for viewers like you! Best, DFJ

[@andrewrohde2373]

Hey, Jay. I loved the idea of an installation jig, so I made my own. I observed at the 6:55 moment when you are using your jig, you have it held at a slight angle to your workpiece. Since I'm less skilled than you are, I knew I had to make mine stable and clampable. Consequently, I grabbed a scrap piece of 4x4 x 12" and made a dado (1 1/2" deep x 2" wide) crossways through the 4x4, and roughly centered along its length. Using my drill press, I drilled a 3/8" hole through the center of the dado, and drove in a 1/4" bushing. One long bolt with a couple of jam screws later, I was done. It worked great. Since it was a 4x4, I knew it would sit flat and would not "rock" when clamped. Kinda foolproof, even for me. Thanks again, Jay.

[@DirtFarmerJay]

Sorry for the late reply! For some reason, KZbin had "hidden" a whole group of replies and comments related to this video. Your solution is a great one! Also, there is another insert out, by Rampa Tech, that is easier to drive as it has a triple thread the allows the insert to drive in straight. Thanks for writing! Best, DFJ

[@UDX4570PalmSprings-yh1mv]

Excellent tutorial, I just purchased some threaded inserts and was curious on how to install them, I most definitely won't be using a screwdriver to drive them into my project. Thanks a million Dirt Farmer!🇺🇸✌️🤠

[@D_J_F_4]

Can't believe I only just found this guy. Great video, very descriptive without being over descriptive. Thanks Jay!

[@cobaltbluearts]

Really great video - once you see it, you're "why that's so obvious but it would have taken me quite a while to think of that simple solution"

[@ChristIsLord229]

I really like how you have the music real subtle as youre demonstrating. We are still able to hear you talk and you get a little twang in the background. I will stop watching the people who cut to the demo and have some rock riff blasting of nowhere then cut to silence, then back to talking. Nice vid

[@mateobean6635]

Thanks for the verification on running it down by hand with the drill press. Not the most efficient, but it'll be the most precise I guess. I destroyed E-Z Loks provided tool by the 3rd 6-32 when it was shearing off the fingers that lock into the insert, as well as just straight chipping off the collars on the top of the inserts running them into just Maple. I absolutely had enough pressure to not strip it, they're just so fragile.

[@DirtFarmerJay]

Thanks for the feedback Mateo Bean. Keep watching and commenting! Best, DFJ

[@almightytreegod]

Thank you! I’ve been looking for something about the measurements and it seems like other videos don’t think this is important for some reason.

[@DirtFarmerJay]

Glad it was helpful! Keep watching and commenting Hall of Canons. Best, DFJ

[@markmcd]

Thanks for the high quality video! I'm planning on reattaching an existing standing desk frame onto a new desktop and will need to put in a couple of inserts to attach it. This seems less scary now!

[@DirtFarmerJay]

Great! I'm so glad that this video was of help to you. Let me know how it goes at [e-mail].

[@AndrewMurphy8383]

@@DirtFarmerJay IF WE SHOULD NOT USE A FLAT HEAD BIT WHY DOES EZ LOK SAY WE CAN USE IT JAY

[@DirtFarmerJay]

@@AndrewMurphy8383 , you CAN use a flat blade screwdriver, but it's not the best approach. Because of the small bearing surface only at the edges of the insert, there is great potential for a slip, or in the case of the brass inserts, deformation due to the softness of the metal. This being the case, using either the proprietary tool that EZ-Lok® has made available or the technique of a matching bolt thread being put into the internal thread area provides a much more secure and accurate way to install the inserts. I hope that helps! Best Regards, DFJ

[@AndrewMurphy8383]

@@DirtFarmerJay but i use the carbon ez lok for metal that should not be a issue i agree with the wood inserts that might be a issue right and good job on the videos i offten wonder about it

[@giuliobuccini208]

Add a washer under the bolt so you will know when it's flush (great suggestion from Robert B. McNeill).

[@DirtFarmerJay]

Giulio, this is indeed a GREAT suggestion. Thanks for sharing the idea as well as giving credit to Mr. McNeill. Best Regards, DFJ

[@kkd11]

Dirt Farmer Jay, I’ve got a reverse situation. I need to bury an insert that measures 3/8 in-16, however I’m going to attach a round table top to a wood pedestal so I need to perhaps find a longer insert than you’ve used in the video? I tried a standard insert but when tightened it simply pulls the insert out. Any solutions come to our mind? Anyone?

[@giuliobuccini208]

@@kkd11 I do not know if I understood correctly your problem, anyway I will try to help you. If you can easily access to the top part of your pedestal from the bottom, then simply find an insert with a top-flange, and screw it from the bottom toward up. The flange (larger than the thread) will not allow the insert to came out when pulled from the top. Alternatively, if you have not free access to the top part of your pedestal, cut a small square tablet of decent wood and screw a "flanged" insert as above (i.e.from bottom to top). Then screw the tablet on the top part of your pedesta by using normal wood-screws. The plane of the round table should be large enough to keep the additional tablet hidden at the eyes.

[@kkd11]

@@giuliobuccini208 Many thanks for attempting to help my conundrum. I have a pedestal table with a plate glued and screwed to the underneath of the table top along with the 1st section of the pedestal. The factory, Baker Furniture, place a nut centered underneath the 18” square wood plate. The 2nd section of the pedestal fits snugly into the 1st section and has an attachment under the table top. The nut got dislodged. Glued to plate the first section of the pedestal is the much taller than the first section of the pedestal. Baker Furniture drilled a hole, approximately 3/8”, going thru all sections and both top and bottom mounting plates. I can not access the nut. I’m hoping to use an insert nut on the top of the first section since the plate is permanently attached. My goal is to use something like an insert nut into the top of the 1st section and then screw the threaded metal all thread rod into the 2nd section which is accessible under the pedestal base. I can call you if you can’t understand my objective. Again, hanks!

[@xinixxagnix201]

drillpress insert is the best but can not always be done, thanks for the video.

[@DirtFarmerJay]

You bet! Best, DFJ

[@brianhillis3701]

Thanks for the tips. I always had used old reprofiled screw drivers. Your ways are easier and I don't create lots of strange bladed screwdrivers.

[@DirtFarmerJay]

Brian, thanks for watching and taking time to write. We're glad this was of help to you. Best Regards, DFJ

[@walth9092]

Love the sandpaper jig.

[@DirtFarmerJay]

Glad to hear it, Walt. We use those blocks ongoing in our shop. They are workhorses. Best, DFJ

[@micschemelin663]

I really like your tip on installing the insert with the slot down. It makes for a much neater finished look. 👍

[@DirtFarmerJay]

Glad you like it! Thanks for taking time to write! Best, DFJ

[@charlesgoodyear9403]

One thing about it however - if you ever need to remove the insert for any reason, how would you go about it?

[@Sven_Hein]

@@charlesgoodyear9403 my thoughts exactly, I was always told that the slot was to remove them easier, thus I always put it facing outward.

[@stanimir4197]

@@charlesgoodyear9403 you can use a hex bolt, 2 nuts (+washer). Lock the nuts to the wood (washer below them) with an open spanner, unscrew the hex bolt with any ratchet of your choice. However I always install metal insert in wood with epoxy - so no easy removal.

[@ladykenja2700]

- VERY useful, clear, concise info. Thanx 4 sharing.

[@karenrice916]

Super! No longer scared of inserting these handy threads!

[@mfx1]

If you use some PVA wood glue instead of beeswax it will help lubricate it during insertion, then set and make the insert even more secure.

[@DirtFarmerJay]

Martin, good idea! Thanks for writing! Best, DFJ

[@jdsrealisticreviewsrants4482]

You beat me to it brother.

[@316woodworks9]

Bravo! You know the deal! I do the same!!!

[@XXjg_]

But PVA glue doesn’t adhere metal and wood.

[@mfx1]

@@XXjg_ And beeswax does?

[@gurmitklar4962]

Very impressive. Thanks for sharing this technique.

[@DirtFarmerJay]

My pleasure! DFJ

[@gustvas]

thanks jay. going to try for the first time this weekend

[@DirtFarmerJay]

Have fun!

[@brunoletoquin458]

Merci pour votre vidéo, j'avais un doute et grâce à vous je n'en ai plus ! Bonjour de Marseille 🙂

[@sl5311]

Do I need to put epoxy or glue to hold them if there is shear force on them-as in a kids wooden chair? This is the best video, thank you for an excellent explanation

[@randyng-a-fook1695]

Great info video, I enjoyed it. My personal preference is the last insert that you did, it ensured perfectly perpendicular inserting of the threaded screw. Continue the good work.

[@36736fps]

NOT perpendicular. He held the jig out of full contact with the material and the insert seemed to self align.

[@lyric.kayden]

@@36736fpsnot sure what your watching but the last method was using a drill press so I’m not sure what your watching. I’m pretty sure last insert being installed using a drill press makes it pretty damn perpendicular.

[@medicmike4906]

Thank you, I now feel confident in using these for my next project.

[@MalaRhynn]

Thanks for the vid! I'm self-installing some shelf brackets in the den, and I really wanted to keep the shelves themselves movable.

[@DirtFarmerJay]

Glad I could help!

[@larscajvall5804]

I can use this. THX from Sweden

[@DirtFarmerJay]

Thanks for writing! Best, DFJ

[@FredStoverink]

Saved my day with this.

[@DirtFarmerJay]

Right on! Glad to hear!

[@FredStoverink]

@@DirtFarmerJay I’ve never been happier to have a big old drill press. That’s the route I went.

[@chuck5761]

If you cut off some of that spring, you'll be able to rest the 2x4 of your jig flat on the surface when you're starting the insert. Right now the spring is too long.

[@DirtFarmerJay]

Thanks, Chuck. Watch for another edition of this video with the matched drill bit, inserts and insert driver that is from EZLok. We'll show the spring shortened and give you a quick mention. Sub if you haven't and watch for it. Best, DFJ

[@Skorpeonismyrealname]

I spent a half hour trying to find the bits to install some of these on the plastic parts of my car, since the first batch I bought kept snapping. Eventually just got a bolt to lock it down, ran into no issues.

[@brittanyfeagin9937]

Amazing! I got a free crib that is missing one of these for the infant/highest setting mattress screw. Looks easy enough with the drill bit as I don’t have the other 2 tools.

[@DirtFarmerJay]

How did it turn out for you? Best, DFJ

[@ubet58]

Thank you VERY MUCH!!!

[@PBS-nm1uu]

found your site a week ago, great presentation, please keep them coming.

[@DirtFarmerJay]

PBS #007, glad you found our channel. We release a new video every Friday. If you subsribe and ring the bell, you will be notified every week when each new video is posted. Best to you! Dirt Farmer Jay

[@mrwicccked]

I was hoping you would insert a bolt into each of the threaded inserts and check if it's square to the board surface

[@WasimBarri]

Well done on an enjoyable and well explained video. I use the jig and found having the washer just above the insert instead of above the 2 nuts leaves a cleaner surface as sometimes that bottom nut digs into the surface and yes the insert still ends up just below the surface. I've even found one nut works but you have to unlock using a wrench at the top and a spanner on the nut. Great tip on using wax. I'll do that from now on

[@DirtFarmerJay]

Glad we could be of help John Barr. Keep watching and commenting. DFJ

[@papergatorzfedducca7998]

Thank you!!! I’ve been subscribed for awhile now!! Thumbs up!!🔥🔥🔥

[@DirtFarmerJay]

Awesome! Thank you!

[@swank1975]

Thank you. The times I've used these to be threads for bolts holding table legs on I've really struggled. It all goes together just fine then later when we want to take the table apart and move it the bolt will pull the insert out and it will get all screwed up.

[@johnstarkie9948]

Glue them in.

[@michaelbee8263]

Yeah, it wasn't covered in this video (surprisingly) - but they are commonly glued in with epoxy - this changes the installation method also as you need to ensure the stock/mandrel is not glued in.

[@behonestisgood6341]

Thanks for sharing this great ideas of yours I learned a lot from you Thanks again

[@DirtFarmerJay]

You are so welcome!

[@MaynardOwns]

I recently fixed a wood table with one of these. I wish I watched this first. I bought a 5/8th course thread brass one. I only had a 1/4 inch drill bit and a 58th sort of pointed then to a wide and very short bit. Which I used to got as far in as I could. Then I took the 1/4 in bit and basically routed it out as best I could. Then when I tried to tighten the thing into the wood ( which I had to repair the hole with pic wood filler)I used a random Thing that fit and as I turned half of it broke off. Then I just hammered it in a bit then managed to get it deeper then I broke off the other end where the slit was. I never got it all the way in the wood but I got it deep enough to repair the damn leg.

[@DirtFarmerJay]

Ugggggh! Sorry to hear of the trying experience! Best, DFJ

[@lamonttblackshire1638]

Excellent Video. Well done!

[@reaper060670]

Great content I forgot to say. I sub'd and liked the video too btw. Thanks for these top ideas..

[@DirtFarmerJay]

Thanks! I'm glad you're part of our viewer family!

[@yoheff988]

Could never get use to this out of date imperial system LOL

[@DirtFarmerJay]

There are advantages to the metric system, that's for sure. All based on multiples and divisors of 10. However, I suppose a lot has to do with what you grew up with and what you use ongoing. I've had feedback from the scientific and engineering community that indicates that metric measurement units for various attributes don't always work the best or are awkward. I'm attempting to become proficient in metric as well. Thanks for writing! Best, DFJ

[@yoheff988]

​@@DirtFarmerJay I hear you, when someone tells me that he needs to shave off 83 thousands of an inch from a piece of wood, I can't see how anyone is able to imagine this, but that someone tells me " I have to shave off 0.5mm or .025mm off that piece of wood, anyone can imagine this even a monkey LOL. Anyway it is what it is, thanks for commenting.

[@carrienifhoughlu892]

Great video. Do you have video on how to make the tool for inserting the threads. Thank you.

[@DirtFarmerJay]

Carrie, here's a link to Woodsmith's video and plan that was created by Phil Huber of the Woodsmith Team. www.woodsmith.com/article/threaded-insert-jig/ Best, DFJ

[@joedance14]

Thank-you.

[@DirtFarmerJay]

Our pleasure!

[@acme.videos]

Thank you for the great tip!! 🙏👍

[@DirtFarmerJay]

@acme.videos - thanks. I'm glad you liked it. Also check out this episode where we've found another product that is even easier to use and is very durable. Here's the link: kzbin.info/www/bejne/jnTahZWIdsSCo9U

[@krzysztofmathews738]

This is good and helpful. Thank you!

[@DirtFarmerJay]

You're welcome!

[@Tal.10]

God bless Jay, great video

[@DirtFarmerJay]

Thanks TAL for watching and commenting. Keep watching! I love viewers like YOU! Best, DFJ

[@paulruud5804]

Thanks!

[@DirtFarmerJay]

No problem!

[@kathrynnewton8721]

Thank you.milked the sanding block idea!

[@DennisMathias]

Well, hell, I didn't know those were reversible. I always did the slot UP. Duh. BTW, I think the jig won.

[@DirtFarmerJay]

LOL, Dennis, thanks for writing. Glad you found this helpful. Look for another episode the first Saturday in January on the Rampa inserts that we've discovered. They are even more useful - Best, DFJ

[@alidjillali7450]

Bonjour et merci pour toutes les informations

[@DirtFarmerJay]

Merci beaucoup d'avoir regardé et commenté! Meilleur pour vous et votre famille. DFJ

[@alidjillali7450]

@@DirtFarmerJay merci a toi aussi. Tt mes salutations

[@lww8208]

One should place the insert into the wood with the slots UP, never down, if you should ever want to remove the insert. For example, if you are placing the insert into the bottom of a table-top to hold the top to the legs and you discover that you have not drilled the tap hole quite deep enough; then you must remove the insert, deepen the hole and reinsert the brass insert. Ask me how I discovered this.

[@mrchedda]

Good stuff! Thanks!

[@DirtFarmerJay]

Glad you liked it!

[@achardjc]

I would like to see you insert a long 8" bolt partially into each hole. Then use a square to compare the angle of each to see how perpendicular they really are.

[@keithholton5559]

You can use bar soap also I've found it works and it's cheaper than bees wax

[@ramfitme]

If one does not have any of those gadgets, the trick seems to be in those two locking nuts, so that even with a screw driver you might be able to do it. Not sure whether I am right

[@stanmashek3085]

great video thanks very much

[@newlibertarian139]

the flat surface of the wooden fixture needs to be flush with the mounting surface before installing the insert. the whole point is to ensure the insert is installed normal to the plane of the installed surface. reduce the spring size.

[@DirtFarmerJay]

Thanks!

[@MustPassTruck]

Think these would be a good option for fixing stripped out door hindges with machined screws?

[@andre1987eph]

A craftsman

[@kathrynnewton8721]

Thank you, but can’t be doing 60/4ths! In this day and age!

[@visamishra4009]

Nice explan

[@DirtFarmerJay]

Thanks and welcome!

[@armandodiaz3485]

Great demo! I just ordered an 10-32 ezlok kit to install 4 of these screws in a Husky wooden workbench top. I don’t own a drill press. I see a few portable drill guides which either cost $$ or $30-40. Also see a short drill guide tool made by Gator which has varying hole sizes. Any recommendations on which of these will do the job “properly” without and fuss? Thanks!!

[@fcorn66]

Great video. Would the inserts work in MDF as well?

[@krioca35]

Hi Mr. Jay, i've been introduced to your channel today and i'm very interested on those charts tô install those threaded inserto, but the link doesn't help at All. Do you share them in other way? Thank you for the vídeos. Very inspiring. I'm Marcelo, from BRASIL 🇧🇷

[@Mark-bn7lk]

Jay, do any of these inserts work with plywood, Baltic Birch or otherwise?

[@prabhuja7554]

Done Don🎉❤😮

[@johnawhiting]

Gr8 video

[@nickkellie]

Ez lok driver broke on me!

[@DirtFarmerJay]

Yeow! Sorry to hear about this!

[@AnimeOtakuDrew]

How secure are these things? I'm building a cheese press that will have a threaded bolt through the center which will need to have 50 lbs. of pressure applied and sustained for up to 12 hours at a time. Will the insert remain secure in the wood at that pressure or would that much pressure push it out of the wood? And if it will work, can I count on it lasting long term, or will it only be good for a few uses?

[@DirtFarmerJay]

AnimeOtakuDrew - sounds like a great project. There's a couple of variables here. First, the harder the wood, the more secure the connection between the insert and the wood. Softer wood species, like pine or fir, won't be as strong. Second, making sure to use the exact recommended drill bit for the insert is key. If you use the next size up, you greatly compromise the grip strength of the insert. Lastly, brass is relatively soft, so repeated use may be problematic. I would use one of the steel inserts, fine threads on the inside, and aggressive deep knife threads on the outside for your application. I hope this helps. Let me know how your project turns out! Best, DFJ

[@AnimeOtakuDrew]

@@DirtFarmerJay Thank you so much for the response. I recently started cheese-making as a hobby, and I also just moved to a new town in Oklahoma where I found out that I would actually be able to sell my homemade cheese in the local farmer's market to make a little extra money, but that means I need to scale up my production at least a little bit. In order to do that, I need a larger cheese press than I currently have, and because of the ridiculous costs of commercially available presses, it is quickest, cheapest, easiest, and most effective to build my own. I am actually thinking of making it a double press, so I would use a 2' long hardwood 2" x 4" as the crossbeam. It'll be mounted above a 2' x 1' cutting board base with heavy 1' long bolts (one at either end and one in the center), then there will be another thick bolt threaded through the center of each side with a flat piece attached to one end and a turning handle attached to the other end so it can be screwed down on top of the followers on my two 8.25" wide cheese baskets with springs ensuring the requisite pressure (25 lbs. for two hours, then 50 lbs. for 12 hours) to form the cheeses properly. I agree that steel inserts are the right call for added strength, which is the same reason I mean to use not only hardwood, but a heavy 2" x 4" that will be strong enough to withstand the pressure that will be placed upon it repeatedly. It might be a couple weeks before I have a chance to get the materials and actually build it, but I can certainly come back and give you updates of how it's going. Might even put up my own videos of the process; haven't decided yet.

[@LiloUkulele]

As an alternative, you can tap the wood directly (if you have a tap and die set). Withdrawal tests have shown that this method is just as strong, if not stronger than brass inserts.

[@DirtFarmerJay]

Very nice. Thanks for the tip!

[@MrMcQuade]

how do inserts for table legs work? Two inserts? Do you have to loctite the post to one side?

[@airborne350g]

How would you sink the threaded insert a little more to use a heX hole flush screw where the top of the screw is flush with the surface? This was I could remove the screw attach what I need then remove what was attached and reinsert the screw to close the hole. This is for a inserting in the top of a work bench.

[@carololivie2095]

Great Video but I can't find the spring to use to make the jig. Any ideas?

[@DirtFarmerJay]

Carol, we were able to find the spring at a smaller independent hardware store. These tend to have robust specialized hardware sections for all sorts of appliance, vehicle, farm implement, science fair and general bolts and screws. Ace Hardware stores tend to have these. I hope that helps! Best, DFJ

[@phidingthefam]

I really wish I had watched this prior to my install... I used a flat head :/

[@EricDavidLaVoie1970]

Hey Jay great Techniques however im in the furniture industry. At times when these inserts get stripped taken them out is very hard. We use a flat screwdriver that can be hit into inside of the insert. Than when secured in you can screw it out. Do you have any orlther tips how to remove them when stripped,?

[@DirtFarmerJay]

Eric, good to hear from you. Thanks for watching our video and taking time to write. Indeed, because brass is so soft, there is a risk of stripping the threads. It sounds like you've come up with a technique that works, but runs some risk of marring your work simply because it's not the most precise method because you have to hammer in the modified screwdriver into the insert. A screw extractor, or "Easy-Out" type of bit would probably do the trick. It's reversed threads should bite into the side of the insert and allow you to reverse it out. Let me know if you give this a shot and how it works out for you. Best Regards, DFJ

[@EricDavidLaVoie1970]

Hello again, I just wanted to share some inserts we use at our shop at Jordans Furniture. I believe they are easier to install than the inserts in this video. No need for fancy tools to put into place just a trusty old hex tool. These can be purchaced in standard or metric thread. We have 1/4" up to 1" in our shop. They work great on all types of projects. I just noticed I can't add photos here. Please send me your email address of you like so I can share some photos of the inserts being used. I believe you may like these.

[@DirtFarmerJay]

@@EricDavidLaVoie1970 good to hear from you again. You can send me info at [e-mail]. I look forward to receiving the info. Best, DFJ

[@969Garage]

I bought a new bed and of these keeps pulling out when tightening against it. I took it out and used ultra black silicone. Do I have to Re drill the hole and insert a larger one to fix correctly ?

[@hadjnabil4811]

Hello sir most of the time the adjustment screw remains locked inside for the removed we finds difficulty, are there methods for this type of screw when it can be removed, thank's lot.

[@DirtFarmerJay]

Two methods. 1. make sure there is lubricant on the threads so it will release as you back out the installation tool. 2. If the insert tends to back out easily, its usually a sign that the pilot hole is too big. If that's the case, downsize the pilot hole with a slightly smaller bit. Hope this helps. DFJ

[@11ccom]

Harbor Freight FastenPro Threaded Insert Riveter S

[@mooncrow3450]

Hi ... thank you for this information. I do have a question, and hope you can answer it. I am an artist, working with dried, and then stained gourds. If I was going to attach 3/4" to 1" diameter wooden legs/feet to a gourd "bowl" ... what size insert would you recommend? I'm not a woodcraft person, so I'm pretty dumb on a lot of the technical side of the skill. Thank you for any information. I'm so happy I found your channel.

[@DirtFarmerJay]

MoonCrow, Thanks for watching and for your comment. I talked to Dirt Farmer Jay about your question and he says that a threaded insert is not going to work with a gourd because the material inside the gourd will not hold the threaded insert. These are meant to be drilled into solid wood. We are happy you found our channel too!! Best, Dirt Farmer Maggie

[@mooncrow3450]

@@DirtFarmerJay Thank you for the information!

[@christinehubbs6772]

How do I determine what size hole I should pre-drill for the inserts?

[@DirtFarmerJay]

Christine, the inserts usually come with the drill bit specified, but there is also a chart that EZ Lok® has at their website for their various inserts. There are other insert manufacturers out there, so it's not certain that the specifications fit for them precisely. You can see the EZ Lok® chart here: www.ezlok.com/assets/documents/Drill%20Chart%20-%20Inserts%20for%20Wood%20-%20EZL_2020-01-29.pdf

[@christinehubbs6772]

@@DirtFarmerJay Thank you so much for the chart. I have never done any wood projects. I purchased some HIRITE wheels with inserts to put on a large solid oak cart 18"x 36"x 34". The package, came with no instructions. They had a 3/8's course thread stem and I was guessing about a 1/2" needed to be drilled for the insert. It doesn't help all my tools are for drilling metal. no drill press, just a hand drill.I did find I had a 1/2 hole drill for wood. Tip was broken, so I predrilled with 1/4", then 3/8" . Going a bit farther than the length of the insert. I then used the 1/2" hole drill, only going a little better than 3/4 of the way down, since the insert tapered. It worked out just right. I found a long bolt and used the double nutted method and eased them in. I carefully backed them out and put in some glue. They finished product came out with the insert looking, straight and flush. Well, one was a bit off. I think the top thread ring snapped inside the wood.

[@DirtFarmerJay]

@@christinehubbs6772 - thanks for writing back - I'm glad you were able to work through it and you now have another skill you can call your own! Thanks for being a part of our viewer family. - DFJ

[@yoheff988]

How did you drill a hole on the side of the dowel (I'm assuming it's centered)?

[@DirtFarmerJay]

I used a doweling jig. It doesn't "care" if the stock is round or square, the hole will still be centered across the width of the stock. I hope that helps! Best, DFJ

[@Orange-Jumpsuit-Time]

Round table tops don't fit in a drill press.

[@cardinalfang7725]

Looking to do this now. Need 3/8-16. I see Rampa does make one, but not like their version with the collar. Hey Jay, where did you get that red wall cabinet that holds you drills, impact drivers and saw?

[@DirtFarmerJay]

Thanks for watching and writing! I really like the Rampa gear and hope you can find what will work for you. Here's the link to the episode where we overview that red wall cabinet you noticed: kzbin.info/www/bejne/jaW6oWufnJtmiNU Best, DFJ

[@PurpKoolaid]

I used liquid nails to lubricate the inserts for a bench I put together. Did I do ok? Haha

[@DirtFarmerJay]

Indeed, you did fine. When not cured, the adhesive acts as a lubricant, and a fixative after curing. Best, DFJ

[@RichC626]

The link for the spec sheet no longer works

[@DirtFarmerJay]

Rich, do you mean this one? bit.ly/DFJ_EZLock_Inserts_DrillSizes I just tested this and it worked on this end. Let me know what happens when you try it. Best, DFJ

[@jaysmonet]

I’m prob missing something, I need help picking an insert for specific bolt sizes. So I’m using a 1/4in bolt, which insert do I choose? Many talk about outer size of hole for insert, I just need size my bolt is screwing into

[@DirtFarmerJay]

Sorry for the delayed response. Try this chart: bit.ly/DFJ_EZLock_Inserts_DrillSizes

[@reaper060670]

I've had issues wit5h the Zinc plated ones I 1st got on Amazon. They would split right in the middle downwards completely in half. I saw that if u have M6 u need to drill an 8mm hole for them but I like the ways u place them using bolts and lock nuts with them. I bought some more stainless steel ones due to the Zinc ones cracking as I tried to screw them into their place.. I haven't tried the Stainless ones yet though. The look like the 1st ones u did with that slot on them at the top. Is it possible to put them in with a larger flathead??

[@DirtFarmerJay]

Sorry for the slow reply. It sounds like you are developing a good method for using these inserts. Once you know the right combo of the drill and insert, you're golden. As for the slot on the top and using a wider/larger flathead screwdriver, it's problematic because all the torque pressure to get insert driven in is on only two small points and slippage and marring is highly likely. Also, these types of inserts tend to tilt over as they are being driven in, so you have to counteract that at the same time as you are pushing down to get the insert to thread in. Does that help? Best, DFJ

[@reaper060670]

@@DirtFarmerJay Yeah I hear that on the 2 small points. I'm going to use the nut and bolt method u used with the piece of wood. That is a good one to get it square at 90 degrees too. Thanks for the reply man. Very much appreciated.

[@jcepri]

I need to fix a table, but I don't have these tools or the experience,. I''ll have to pay someone to fix it or trash the table.

[@DirtFarmerJay]

Thank for taking a look. Let's hope you are able to salvage the table! Best, DFJ

[@Samson-EC]

What do you recommend for inserting a sleeve in a 3' finial that you cannot get in a drill press and the hole needs to be straight? Thks

[@DirtFarmerJay]

Is there not room because the travel on the quill of your drill press won't allow it? If there is room, I'd suggest a two-handled hand wood screws set flat on the table and the finial mounted in it perpendicular to the table. If need be, you can modify the jaws of the clamp to hold the finial upright so you can bore that hole. Does this help? Best, DFJ

[@Samson-EC]

@DirtFarmerJay It is a table top drill press, so no clearance. Appreciate the response..JC

[@dcooper1994]

Hi Jay, when drilling the hole for the insert, do you go a little deeper than the insert so the bolt can sit flush? Thanks

[@DirtFarmerJay]

David Cooper, If the thickness of the material allows for some additional space, sure, why not. Just don't compromise your project unless you have the extra room. Best, DFJ

[@ed6837]

1/4-24? don't you mean 1/4-20 or 1/4-28??

[@DirtFarmerJay]

My mistake. Good catch! 1/4-20. I'll get it taken down. Best, DFJ

[@jeffmeredith9094]

Know epoxy or glue ?

[@DirtFarmerJay]

Usually not necessary unless you used a bit that would make the fit a bit loose. I hope that helps! Best, DFJ

[@kevinhuberty5447]

*1/4-28 1/4-24 doesn't exist to my knowledge.

[@DirtFarmerJay]

Thanks for the catch!

[@InternalizedSun]

Good evening sir. I have a question about your drill press. I can see that it is a PowerMatic, but which model is this? I am asking because my jaw dropped to my knees when I saw the travel was so long. I was wondering if it is possible to find something similar here in Denmark, then if I know which model, I can look up the specs and compare with other brands (and then the whole check reviews etc., as it seems quality of machines these days get lower and lower).

[@DirtFarmerJay]

Sorry for the late reply! For some reason, KZbin had "hidden" a whole group of replies and comments related to this video. Here's an episode we did on that drill press. There is an updated model, but it has essentially the same specs with some advanced features. The one we have is a Powermatic 2800. kzbin.info/www/bejne/q5DRZ2yqYqupjsk I hope this helps! Thanks for writing! Best, DFJ

[@InternalizedSun]

@@DirtFarmerJay Well - time went by and then came Black Friday and one of our local tool suppliers decided to have an extra affordable sale and included a Teknatool Nova Voyager, so I ended up buying that drill press and have so far no regrets and are so happy with the 6” travel, making life so much easier switching between small bits for pilot holes and large bits for the actual holes. Thanks for the reply though 👍

[@Simplicity165]

When you screw in the insert in with the slots down, if a need arises how do you get it out..?

[@DirtFarmerJay]

The only way I can think of is to put some epoxy on the threads of a bolt, screw it in and let is cure. Then remove the bolt...and the threaded insert too. Best, DFJ

[@enriquegaytanguiadeturista25]

Cómo es el nombre de estos inserts, en español

[@DirtFarmerJay]

Son insertos roscados, lo que significa que puede insertar un taladro en una placa, insertar el inserto roscado del tamaño correcto y luego asegurar algo a la placa con un tornillo que se inserta en el inserto roscado.

[@biehpham8323]

Would it be ok to insert them in plywood?

[@DirtFarmerJay]

Bieh, they do moderately well in furniture grade plywood. This type has many plies without voids and is much stronger and stable than construction grade plywood. These inserts do tend to lift the top layer of the plywood as they are screwed in. I hope this helps! Best, DFJ

[@316woodworks9]

Method 1 sucks if you need esthetics. Method 2 allows you to over drill it. Method 3 is the best I saw in this video because of the fact that the insert will go in straight even if you're drunk. Personally, I add a bolt with 2 nuts and use an open end wrench or socket to manually tighten the insert in, feeling for errors. I take my time and they are always perfect. The drill press method does the same and maybe even better but is a little bit clunky. Great video!

[@DirtFarmerJay]

Thanks for jumping in. There is another insert that we've started using as well. It automatically goes straight in, with a hex driver, due to 3 threads on the barrel. Check them out - the company is Rampa.

[@alchemist7474]

your jig did nothing to keep it perpendicular... no point unless the jig sits hard flat on the insert piece...either make he depth of the groove deeper or use a light coil spring

[@eddieed_2328]

do you use epoxy on the insert threads

[@DirtFarmerJay]

You can if there is a concern of the insert backing out with use. If that's the case, coat it with epoxy first. Best, DFJ