Ford 3v Engines Broken Spark Plug Removal: What To Do When The Lisle Tool FAILS

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In this video I show you what to do when the Lisle tool breaks and also what to do when the Lisle tool just won't grip the shell you are trying to extract.
How to use the Lisle tool to remove Broken Spark Plugs-
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[@FordTechMakuloco]

How to use the Lisle tool to remove Broken Spark Plugs- kzbin.info/www/bejne/eIS8apx4ncp1jqs

[@randyragon]

Well I just started the my last plug on '05 Expedition. It broke to make a total of 5 that did. Unfortunately that is No. 4 rear on passenger side, the one you can't see and must have mushroomed the electrode because I can't get the extractor to get any grip started. Now I have to get a right angle drill adapter and try to squeeze it in there where there was barely room for the extractor. I hope there is a special hell for whoever is responsible for the plugs and cam phasers for these engines. At least this video will get me on the right track to finally finish this.

[@randyragon]

Just an update. For the drill extension I bought an Irwin 1/4" hex drive spade bit extension. The outer points on the hex are 17/64, so I drilled out the flats after removing the clamping screws and ended up with a perfect fit holder for that size drill bit. The clamp screws after tightening needed to be ground off a tiny bit to make them flush since the drill bit increased their distance out by 1/128". I then placed it in the hole and held my right angle drill setup next to it to determine how much to cut off the extension so it would have enough depth to drill the plug and still not be too long to fit past the firewall above the firewall above the back plug. The extension for me ended up being about 3"'s long. I put it in my Lisle kit case for easy future access.

[@docx73]

Do you have a picture of this tool you made? I have the do the exact same thing!

[@PhillipBailey]

This is what happens when a mechanic sleeps with an engineers wife!

[@MJ-iy4fb]

lol, liked " I hope there is a special place in hell for whoever is responsible for the plugs and cam phasers"

[@alopez1699]

I had a mushroomed electrode and your drilling out method saved me big buck. Thanks for sharing your tips with everyone. I didn't have a camera to look into cylinder chamber but I went ahead and blew it out. I also turned on the car without the spark plug to remove any possible debries in chamber. My truck was sitting for 6 months until I saw your video. Many thanks.

[@robertgift]

Well done video! Let's make a simple spark plug replacement into a time-wasting, complicated problem. Ford engineers can be such *idiots*.

[@godofawesum223]

Ford didn't design the sparkplug Sherlock, Motorcraft did. Ford fucked up when the chose to source this type of plug for factory instalment but they're not the ones who designed the damn thing. The solution is to use 2 piece plugs after you replace them.

[@jarodallen2251]

@@godofawesum223 And what company owns Motorcraft?

[@arnoldbaclig7709]

I don't know why they still like ford🤔🤔🤔

[@gloknor]

Jared Allen : Yep the answer to your question is .....Ford . Ford owns Motorcraft , They are responsible for this P.O.S. design .

[@jamescastleman2488]

@@godofawesum223 kki7 l

[@PhillipBailey]

I had one where the bottom 1/3rd of the shell broke off and fell into the cylinder instead of splitting the ground electrode. I managed to fish it out once the upper 2/3rds of the shell was extracted. I found a number drill the was .010" larger than the plugh hole and an extension for the bit. Looked into the cylinder with a bore scope. Could see the piece and blindly grabbed it with a pickup tool with three jaws. Took me a couple hours and several tries but won. Thank God it was the number 5 plug. I hate these engines...

[@JJG83724]

Your video saved my ass! I have an 08 gt and had 2 snap. Ordered the tool sunday and had them both out in 30 minutes.

[@davidmckenna7777]

You are a genius and lifesaver! I had one cylinder that broke mode 3 and would not grab to extract. Used your drill suggestion and it is out! Thought I was done and off to a shop but you saved my day. One thing I did do was use the pusher sleeve to protect the plug threads and drilled through that. Worked like a charm. Hats off to the best Ford Tech out there. THANK YOU FOR HELPING US ALL WITH THIS ISSUE!

[@donector4024]

David McKenna v

[@etackhelicopter]

why the hell didn't they start with selling a drill guide instead of a press? The idea of pushing any materials toward the combustion chamber sounds ludacris.

[@godofawesum223]

If it sounds stupid but it works then it aint stupid. But full disclosure, I thought the same thing. But when I got the electrode shield out I didn't give a fuck.

[@Lowegy]

Great review. Lesson learned: don't buy a used lisle tool or loaner tool. They are worn out and won't work well. Save yourself the headache and buy a new lisle tool. With your other helpful videos, I was able to extract 7 broken plugs! Thanks I found that the best way to remove the stuck center electrode is to use a long needle nose pliers to pull them out. I had to do it for 5 of the 7 plugs

[@mikebrennan4534]

Another tool tip for ya...... In the event the extractor tool wont bite in, GET A NEW EXTRACTOR. I ran into a f150 last month that the tool just wouldn't bite into the "cup". My tool had only been used on about 5 plugs. Luckily my Snap On rep came in later that day and said he had seen that before and spoke with Lisle and they told him to attempt it with a new tool. I thought no way it would work since my tool was virtually new. Surprisingly it worked perfect. looking at the two tools there was no way of noticing the difference. no sign of wear at all. Last week a buddy had the same issue and I told him to get a another tool and same fix for him. Thankfully Snap On warrantied mine.

[@FordTechMakuloco]

Good info

[@williampaventa6796]

Thank you so much! WTF ford?

[@mrexecutive1]

Theres a lot of guys on youtube doing Hot engine extraction with an impact gun along with the carbon treatment process. seem to work for the 100% of the time.

[@FordTechMakuloco]

Yeah that's what they show in the video. I know this is the best method and is talked about in this video but I will never do full hot removal on aluminum threads and then turn around and give the customer a $2,600 bill for having to pull the heads. Maybe on my own personal vehicle.

[@jkay2990]

Own a shop on Michigan and had 7 plugs break off on a 3 valve with 265,000 miles on it with original plugs. Had tool break off and video was great. Only suggestion is to hold the centering tool from spinning with pliers. It will mess up treads and need to be tapped out. Other then that it all worked great. Keep up the great videos. Also tool is now on the 4th revision. Four lines now

[@e.b.6766]

That “...One/ Two Liner...” part of the video was probably the most important part of the video. Thanks!!!

[@melvinlewiswellsjr.2619]

i use to be a die hard ford man until this engine....FORD SUCKS!

[@yourlocalalexis4578]

you give a very thorough explanation of the problem, which makes it easy to understand what someone is facing, before they start the job...thank you for your videos. I hope you find success in your future pursuits.!!

[@12gaugenemo74]

What also works is running a can of injector cleaner off the rail, then getting the engine up to operating temp, then use an impact wrench to take the plugs out. Works on almost all plugs, then you only have to use the tool on the ones that break. Got to maximize that flat rate!!

[@bill-nj6fc]

check the air pressure in the tool before trying to get the shell out , should be set at 42psi this way it wont break

[@Roudter]

Outstanding set of vids brother... Thanks...

[@FordTechMakuloco]

Thanks!!

[@danielolguin9040]

Thanks man, this helps alot. I used the cheap O'Reilly's tool with a set that taps threads Into the shell and you have to screw in a tool instead of a backwards threads that bites.

[@ludditeneaderthal]

Dopey question: if you push the center electrode, and it bottoms on that ground strap without the strap budging, would it be possible to just drive the electrode/porcelain combo through the strap with a good whack on a punch (bushed to fit the guide)? Not trying to drive it clear, but far enough to get thread bite?

[@52klog]

I have a Cresent x2 long nose ( pointed nose pliers ) and was able to reach the pins to pull them out.

[@firstlast1732]

Broken plug and broken plug remover made by Ford also

[@Jpilgrim30]

Most people I’ve seen fail with the tool is exactly for that reason. They don’t bottom the tools all the way out. I got my buddy out of jam after he stripped one and saved having to pull the head off by dipping the threads of the puller in JB weld and carefully threading it in so I didn’t get the JB weld outside of the shell. I let it sit overnight and cute I’ll be damned if it didn’t come right out. It really wasn’t to save him it was to save me because I would’ve probably been the one having to pull the head 😂

[@wdibert]

Excellent video. Have used the Lisle tool and had great success. I am hoping I never have a broken tool or electrode as in these videos.

[@bkbeck1]

Excellent Video! thanks for taking the time to make this. I am dealing right now with this issue. My tool has the 4 lines so hopefully it will not break...

[@howardboyd7764]

Wow....In all the years I've worked, tinkered on cars I've never had a spark plug break on me, I think I'd of had a heart attack pulling a plug only to extract half of it and not know what to think....lol..

[@ChrisTopher-wv2eu]

Good video. We just did these in a buddies 06 F250 with only 60k miles...broke 6 of the 8 lol. The Lisle removed all but one where we had to use the snap on tool to get it to work...and of course it was the passenger rear plug that was a pain. What a job.

[@peanutbutterisfu]

I try to get the electrode out with long needle nose, some times you have to dig out some porcelain to get the electrode out but usually I get them out. If the lisle tool won't bite I took a punch and welded a drill bit to it and break up the porcelain and blow it out.

[@locknload9143]

Great Video Thanks! Right after I'm done pulling my valve covers to inspect my phasers and VCTS, (also watching your 4 part videos on timing) I'll be doing my plugs. Sounds like lots of fun! Every since I purchased my truck, I now only watch your videos. Apparently your a super star with the F150s according to everyone on the internet! Keep up the great videos , God knows I can sure use them lol. Man, I miss working on small blocks 350 etc 30 years ago. The engines today are so unnecessary it's not funny! 🇨🇦 Also , just like to say there is a free site out there for F150 owners with lots of help if anyone has questions like I have had. " F-150 Forum" Between the Forum and FordTecMakuloco's is all need to fix you Truck! Thanks again!

[@housepumpinpc3983]

I've been watching your videos for a few years. I thought I had already subscribed. Well I'm preparing for the worse with fixing an 2005 Expedition. Getting the Lisle tool and watched the videos. Also subscribed TODAY. Thanks.

[@Lacasse77]

Great stuff man. I watched all three videos regarding the plug removal, excellent. Thanks you.

[@johnkerr1877]

What do you do when the thread coller breaks lose and just spins. how do you get the top of the plug broke so you can use the lisle tool?

[@rays7437]

This issue used to happen to my technicians. Under warranty we would replace the head or send the head to a machine shop. It's really rare these days.

[@JoeFpoc]

cool video. ive done a few of these at my other job. for me it was always the back ones that broke :( luckily the tool always got them out. the job im at now wont even touch these plugs, we just tell them to go somewhere else

[@mrrod805]

pussy

[@ItsYoYoHo]

Its the bad design of the sparkplug.

[@Dale37]

Guess I got lucky when I changed my plugs two weeks ago. Plugs 3 and 4 broke, one brought the electrode out and the other didn't. I didn't experience the broken electrode the first time I changed my plugs, so I didn't give it much thought and just went to town with the pusher and I didn't have any issues removing the broken piece.

[@robertheintz6398]

I have had success starting the engine and accelerating it and the electrode blows out. But put something over it for safety purposes.works about 60% of the time. Thanks for the vid I will be looking for the tools in your vid this week.

[@computergeek16]

thanks for the tips man. had no clue these lisle tools had been redesigned over the years. i just got mine in the mail today and it happens to have four lines. i hope its a good as the lines predict

[@FordTechMakuloco]

+computergeek16 I just used this latest 4 line tool yesterday for extracting another 6 plugs no problems still going strong.

[@jamiewhite6695]

Best video I've watched yet. With out this video I would have been screwed. Works perfectly thank you so much man. Very appreciated

[@yusieldiaz7092]

Hello , I am writing to you because I have a 150 econoline with a 4.6 engine but I do not know how many valves it has , the problem is that I have 2 spark plugs that broke and I live in the Chilean Patagonia in the city of Punta Arenas , which It makes a repair of this type very difficult for me and I want to buy the tools that will serve my engine, can you give me some advice on how to identify the number of valves in a 2010 econoline? please

[@zappa916]

you would think the engine would have enough compression to blow the broken bit out of the plug hole. Im sure ppl have tried cranking the engine with a broken plug.

[@FordTechMakuloco]

We have tried cranking and running the engine they never blow out.

[@EMTBLAKELY]

can you use compressed air to blow out the port or maybe suction? I

[@rushunt2131]

Ford 3v Engines Broken Spark Plug Removal: What To Do When The Lisle Tool FAILS Set the engine on fire it is at that point you realize that it was a waste to start with and the insurance check will make you feel better 😅

[@HumanVsHumans]

Tried pulling these spark plugs out of an expedition on friday. 4 came out and 4 broke off. not looking forward to finishing the job tomorrow..

[@davemarkellos6910]

Wow....now that's Ford for you.....broken spark plug remover is prone to be broken......yup.....FORD

[@nofortunatesonII]

What about removing the spark plugs with the engine at operating temp and not cold? I realize this may not be pleasant, but wear cloth gloves. May be worth a try?

[@goxgdl]

Thanks for the video, but what a nightmare. After something like this, 7989 and happy roads.

[@FordTechMakuloco]

Yes they are a nightmare I visit almost everyday.

[@ReclusiveMountainMan]

I'm willing to bet that a dab of anti-seize would have helped in these situations. What a PITA. Is it the threads in the head, or the design of the spark plug? Thanks for doing this in-depth.

[@michaelszczys8316]

I just got done removing a broken flat washer seal plug that had a lot of torque on it by drilling off the head down in a hole. That was chore enough, if I had one like these I don't think I could take it.

[@Rondell-j5n]

What do you do if when you were using the extractor the lower portions of the plug come loose and falls into the cylinder cavity?? Is there a fix without head removal ??

[@artmchugh5644]

Man !!!!! If there was ever a reason to NOT BUY A FORD !!!!! This is it!!!😀😀😀😁😁🚘🚘🍺🍺

[@daltonrichardson5833]

I was wondering if I was going to have to pull the heads. I cannot thank you enough for making this video.

[@sherkhan808]

God bless your heart good sir :)

[@roha8993]

Throw the extractor tool away. I JB Weld a 5/16 piece of thread rod in and use puller sleeve washers n a 5/16 nut and out she comes

[@freecheese4143]

Hey ...have you tried the NAPA took? Appears to be a logical design.

[@godofawesum223]

The Napa tool is exactly the same things as the Lisle 65600 tool.

[@danludwig3679]

What is your advice if I cannot get the tool to grip on the metal collar (no porcelain) and may have worn the collar down?

[@hammer1726]

Thanks for all the info, can't say enough about the awesome advice you give. Thanks again. Mark

[@bambolamar2797]

I keep hearing a 12inch+ 1/4 drill bit? Why did u use a "17/64"??

[@sidewayzmike]

Hey, i love @6:48 using the lyle tool to center the drill, but i gotta one up ya, lol. I got a bit extender from harbor frieght that accepts drill bits with the ¼" drive shank on the end. Those bits should run even truer, than adding a thin piece of metal

[@sidewayzmike]

And @9:20, boy i know how knarley things get when running that burr bit. Ran those for early 2000's mercedes benz e class, they had poor engineered lug bolts that would bend when over torqued. Before i found the air hammer attachment that would allow a wrench to assist getting those lugs out. I learned the hard way running a burr bit to disintgrate those broke lug bolts. Still have nightmares lol

[@TheOzthewiz]

Thanks to Ford, the value of Lisle Tool stock must be going through the roof! LOL

[@SatchFD]

First of all, great videos. Very informative, I have learned a lot. Quick question, I have an '05 F150 5.4L. Is there an easy way to test for a bad coil?

[@FordTechMakuloco]

Scott Manning Not really if the concern is happening under load. If it is a dead miss yes you just swap coils to see if it follows.

FordTechMakuloco my 5.4L in a F250 would randomly gain power and drop power when driving up a steep hill, even at 1mph while trying to precise park within 3 inches between the bumpers (on steep hill). Or while cruising the speed limit, that it would chug sometimes up and down. Check engine light is on and i got a report from oreilly auto parts that 2 cylinders is not firing correctly.

[@SatchFD]

FordTechMakuloco Thanks so much for the response. Gave the plugs a go. Got 6 of the 8 out with all of them breaking. Went for #7 and all the came out was the hex nut from the plug, no threads. Needless to say, it's in the shop.

[@paulfiebke3909]

Doesn't the tool have a lifetime warranty? Thanks for showing us this 👌

[@vrich3733]

Thanks for the great vids. I'm about to give this a shot on a 2005 with 73000 miles. If they can get the tools heat treating right...... I think a center hole in the tool would clear the electrode and allow the tool to do the job and not need to deal with the electrode at all.

[@vet6822]

sounds like a good idea.

[@WW-ti3pk]

Ford should recall all vehicles they purchased thos crappie set up in. Sorry company

[@FernandoGonzalez-vi1gb]

Great video:( I have a 2006 F-150 with the 5.4 and 80k miles....I just found out the issue of the spark plugs. I'm thinking to trade in my truck for a 2014 Raptor with the 6.2, Does the 6.2 has the same issues? Do you know if there's any issues at all with the 6.2? Thanks in advance

[@dylanstephens4179]

Fernando Gonzalez nah it doesn’t. It was only the triton motors.

[@tomogletree1]

Cam phasers, spark plugs, 6.0 diesel, 6.4 diesel these are all un excusable

[@mustang351]

the link for the burr no longer works does anyone know the part number or where i can purchase one from

[@UQRXD]

Don't buy any thing with this engine in it. Problem solved.

[@ChancetheCanine]

I just bought one, 4 lines, worked great!!

[@lbracknell]

It would seem that using anti-seize compound to coat the lower part of the plug's shell before installation would help keep the carbon/rust/etc. from filling the gap between the plug's shell and the hole in the head. Does anyone have experience trying this?

[@FordTechMakuloco]

+Larry B Yes nickel anti seize is the stuff to use I show how in my plug installation video- www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NUBH22/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B000NUBH22&linkCode=as2&tag=fordt-20&linkId=N24ZJAXX2NYE4OLK

[@Visitour72]

Great information. Thanks!

[@melvinlewiswellsjr.2619]

let me get this straight...the tool that gets the broken piece out breaks also?

[@JUST_ONE_ID10T]

i bought a tool, and the extractor won't grip into the shell to pull the tip. the porcelain is still on the spark plug just the metal peace is still down in the hole. not sure why it won't grip to turn it out.the exter just spins and feels like it never grips the shell.

[@JamesJackson-i6k]

What is the part number for that extension?

[@KedneyContreras-cw5pt]

I don't really like that drill bit should be shorten

[@brianlaird575]

That tool works great! just had to use it Thursday lol

[@bret9741]

Is the problem only in engines before 2006?

[@BA-gn3qb]

Why doesn't someone (are you listening Lisle), make an extractor with a small center hole to go over the electrodes?

[@1PaJoe]

If they had a problem with the end of the tool breaking putting a hole in the end would further weaken the tool and the end would break off as it did with the earlier models

[@BA-gn3qb]

@@1PaJoe - Not if it was made out of Adamantium, Vibranium, Uru or Nuclear Pasta.

[@diego59316]

Best way to do a 5.4L 3v tune up is to drive around and get it really hot. Then do the tune up using a 3/8 impact gun to pull them out only. I have yet needed to extract a plug using this method.

[@FordTechMakuloco]

+diego59316 Correct I go over this in my removal video.

[@kendrickray7827]

Is it possible to use a bolt breaking lube as well while the motor is hot to get the spark plug out?

[@romelgrigorian307]

Junk designs by ford

[@freddricklee2364]

FordTechMakuloko, I have a question about this Video. Can You Please Give Us a rough estimate of the percentages of times 'The Lisle' tool is successful without any complications? ::Regarding the strap successfully breaking as it's meant to:: Thank You MASTER

[@smokeman9798]

This video has been a great help so far. I had five plugs break on me, got four out with the Lisle Tool and the drilling trick. BUT...the number 4 plug, passenger side, rear. It is loose but I can not get it to come out. It is like its still holding on to something. Tough spot to get a set of needle nose pliers into and difficult to see in there. Any ideas? I'm ready to super glue a length of rubber tube on to it for more leverage.

[@FordTechMakuloco]

smokeman9798 needle nose pliers or a flat head screwdriver rock that tip back and for till it breaks loose of the rest of the plug down below.

[@smokeman9798]

FordTechMakuloco Ended up using a needle nose vise grip to grab the top of that plug, then used a long angled pry bar to apply upward force on the vise grip. Came out with the electrode attached. Then used the Lisle tool.

[@TheSEO106]

So now... get this tool, get these plugs (Motorcraft SP514 / SP547), get these coil packs (MOTORCRAFT IGNITION COIL FOR FORD LINCOLN MERCURY 3L3Z12029BA DG511) and find a day here in Cocoa Beach where it isn’t a mile from the Sun and hope nothing breaks. Have you ever trusted measuring resistance in the coil packs to pass/fail them? I’m not throwing codes but this 2006 EB V8 3V has 104K miles and needs a refresh.

[@semco72057]

It sounds like the Engineers at Ford made a mistake and didn't do their homework when it came to the design of the spark plug for the 4.6, and the 5.4 engines. I have a 2004 Ford F-150 engine and I would not buy another one without making sure the engines have changed in them from the current ones. For those who are GM, or Chrysler fans there are issues with their vehicles also, and I would not buy a foreign vehicle with their own issues.

[@nicholasslodki703]

Did Ford did fix this problem eventually? with the plugs being welded or something like that, instead of press-fit, during plug manufacturing. I had 6 of 8 break 3 years ago. Had to pull the passenger side head. The shield was stuck in the head. Helluva time.

[@cody_rightnow6137]

Brian i have successfully changed 7 of 8 plugs but cylinder 7 broke off and was not flush meaning porcelain and electrode remained and i could not get a bite. Tried drilling out and using 1/4 shank bur bit no luck. Even made my own pusher insert to push the porcelain even further to get a bite no luck. Electrode is mushroomed and porcelain remains. Now the shell is stripped on one side and i am thinking i will have to remove the head. I have a borescope to see whats going on and it doesnt look pretty. What i am looking for from you is any ford material or your knowledge on how to remove the head. It is the drivers side head so lots of shit in the way. I know ill need a valve tool and a few other things but any help you can give me would be great. Want to do it myself because other people charge a ton cause of how tedious it is. Hope to hear from you... Cody

[@steveking4000]

Great video, I've got an '08 Expedition and removed 6 plugs, two of them broke. The extraction tool worked great on one, but the second one broke leaving 3/4in of the electrode protruding. I didn't know how to push or pull it out. Tried needle nose pliers to no avail. It was third one back on drivers side. Any suggestions? I didn't even attempt #4 or #8 because if they had broken off I didn't have enough room to use the extraction tool. Btw I used carb cleaner to soak the plugs overnight

[@FordTechMakuloco]

+Steve King I would push it down with the extraction pusher tool then drill the balled up electrode out as shown in the video and continue with the extraction.

[@inactive67]

Funny same name with an 08 F-150 what a coincidence, and yes it is a great video.

[@llewellynwilliams1956]

LOOKS EASY IN VICE TRY IT IN THE BLOCK NO SO EASY

[@judah0471]

Nice.....thank you !

[@jpr9728]

Does it help to seafoam your truck before you attempt to remove the plugs?

[@FordTechMakuloco]

+Jp R In reality it should but I have found it doesn't the carbon is too far up

[@cadillacman8223]

2005 f150 for sale! could use spark plugs other than that it's a clean 2 owner!

[@Mceagle54]

2007 Navigator 86,000 - In addition to following your instruction and the TSB, ran a tank of fuel with a strong concentration of Tectron before starting. Allowed carb cleaner to set overnight. 6 of 8 plugs broken. Anticipating issues, purchased the Lisle tool that arrived today. The extractor has 4 grooves machined into the shaft below the threads - perhaps this is a good thing. I am clear on the process, thanks for a greatt video. How do you know when you have the extracor far enought into the shell? Any other insight / suggestion is apprecuated! Thanks

[@OldManGarage]

Your videos are great, very informative!

[@strategicservices9906]

Is the problem just w/ 4.6 and 5.4? I'm ready to do spark plug replacement for 2008 ford f150 4.2 v6. Will I have any issues w/ that engine?

[@StonebergerSpeedShop]

I know this video is older but if you can please respond, what happens if the porcelain isn't broke, but just the shell came off, it's all in tact other wise, I really don't want to break the porcelain in there if I don't have to.

[@bozoclown2010]

Good ol' Ford engineering. P.O.S.

[@bruceknapp2709]

I used your bur method because I couldn't get the extractor to grip. I was then able to get screwed in tight. I have four line extractor that I have pulled two threads off of. This thing is really tight. Do you have any idea how to proceed?

[@billjoseph8512]

This ontop of their siliconed together ecoboost that doesn't know if it wants to be a tuner car or not. Id say ford is pretty clueless on how to make a decent vehicle. The only smart thing theyve ever done was use international in their crap. Anyone wanting to defend their engineers doesnt know shit about automobiles. They use durect injection, turbo, and vvt and yet still need to incorporate their egr valve. Theyre not even being dialed in to do shit or get impressive mpg. Ford fans must just like fixin shit al the time or just like trading in vehicles every 6 months or so

[@jasonjoncas5998]

Lent my tool out 2 lines came back with damaged threads new one has 4 lines latest and greatest I assume. Never tried it on my 2007. Plugs still came out like butter over serviced 20,000 KM changes now $200 for plugs doubling that interval.Just want to get another three years out of this puppy. Currently guessing this thing has had an issue with the odometer I estimate 190,000 km.Took your advise on changing to 5W30 and using Pennzoil platinum have used 5w20 in 5km oil changes for the last 3 years. This oil is the most advanced and cleanest will keep the phaser system working for many years.Yea have the classic cold piston slap issue that plagues the modular engines but when it is at operation temperature quiet as the day I got it.Engine has all original internals.Just waiting for 2021 to get a 2018 3 year lease return like this one half price.

[@FlCardFan64]

Attempting to change the plugs on an 04 F-150 with 78,000 miles. I ran Sea Foam in a couple tanks before starting the replacement. Six plugs came out but two of my plugs came apart when I tried to remove them. The jamnut backed right out without much difficulty leaving the porcelain complete and unbroken in the head. The jamnut does not even appear to be damaged and in fact looks like a it was a separate part. Obviously the Lisle tool I bought to have on hand makes no provisions for this. Anybody have an idea about what I do next? (Besides hunt down those responsible for this design.)