Ford 3v Engines Broken Spark Plug Removal: What To Do When The Lisle Tool FAILS

[@alopez1699]

I had a mushroomed electrode and your drilling out method saved me big buck. Thanks for sharing your tips with everyone. I didn't have a camera to look into cylinder chamber but I went ahead and blew it out. I also turned on the car without the spark plug to remove any possible debries in chamber. My truck was sitting for 6 months until I saw your video. Many thanks.

[@e.b.6766]

That “...One/ Two Liner...” part of the video was probably the most important part of the video. Thanks!!!

[@davidmckenna7777]

You are a genius and lifesaver! I had one cylinder that broke mode 3 and would not grab to extract. Used your drill suggestion and it is out! Thought I was done and off to a shop but you saved my day. One thing I did do was use the pusher sleeve to protect the plug threads and drilled through that. Worked like a charm. Hats off to the best Ford Tech out there. THANK YOU FOR HELPING US ALL WITH THIS ISSUE!

[@donector4024]

David McKenna v

[@randyragon]

Well I just started the my last plug on '05 Expedition. It broke to make a total of 5 that did. Unfortunately that is No. 4 rear on passenger side, the one you can't see and must have mushroomed the electrode because I can't get the extractor to get any grip started. Now I have to get a right angle drill adapter and try to squeeze it in there where there was barely room for the extractor. I hope there is a special hell for whoever is responsible for the plugs and cam phasers for these engines. At least this video will get me on the right track to finally finish this.

[@randyragon]

Just an update. For the drill extension I bought an Irwin 1/4" hex drive spade bit extension. The outer points on the hex are 17/64, so I drilled out the flats after removing the clamping screws and ended up with a perfect fit holder for that size drill bit. The clamp screws after tightening needed to be ground off a tiny bit to make them flush since the drill bit increased their distance out by 1/128". I then placed it in the hole and held my right angle drill setup next to it to determine how much to cut off the extension so it would have enough depth to drill the plug and still not be too long to fit past the firewall above the firewall above the back plug. The extension for me ended up being about 3"'s long. I put it in my Lisle kit case for easy future access.

[@docx73]

Do you have a picture of this tool you made? I have the do the exact same thing!

[@PhillipBailey]

This is what happens when a mechanic sleeps with an engineers wife!

[@MJ-iy4fb]

lol, liked " I hope there is a special place in hell for whoever is responsible for the plugs and cam phasers"

[@JJG83724]

Your video saved my ass! I have an 08 gt and had 2 snap. Ordered the tool sunday and had them both out in 30 minutes.

[@Lowegy]

Great review. Lesson learned: don't buy a used lisle tool or loaner tool. They are worn out and won't work well. Save yourself the headache and buy a new lisle tool. With your other helpful videos, I was able to extract 7 broken plugs! Thanks I found that the best way to remove the stuck center electrode is to use a long needle nose pliers to pull them out. I had to do it for 5 of the 7 plugs

[@jkay2990]

Own a shop on Michigan and had 7 plugs break off on a 3 valve with 265,000 miles on it with original plugs. Had tool break off and video was great. Only suggestion is to hold the centering tool from spinning with pliers. It will mess up treads and need to be tapped out. Other then that it all worked great. Keep up the great videos. Also tool is now on the 4th revision. Four lines now

[@yourlocalalexis4578]

you give a very thorough explanation of the problem, which makes it easy to understand what someone is facing, before they start the job...thank you for your videos. I hope you find success in your future pursuits.!!

[@ChrisTopher-wv2eu]

Good video. We just did these in a buddies 06 F250 with only 60k miles...broke 6 of the 8 lol. The Lisle removed all but one where we had to use the snap on tool to get it to work...and of course it was the passenger rear plug that was a pain. What a job.

[@PhillipBailey]

I had one where the bottom 1/3rd of the shell broke off and fell into the cylinder instead of splitting the ground electrode. I managed to fish it out once the upper 2/3rds of the shell was extracted. I found a number drill the was .010" larger than the plugh hole and an extension for the bit. Looked into the cylinder with a bore scope. Could see the piece and blindly grabbed it with a pickup tool with three jaws. Took me a couple hours and several tries but won. Thank God it was the number 5 plug. I hate these engines...

[@wdibert]

Excellent video. Have used the Lisle tool and had great success. I am hoping I never have a broken tool or electrode as in these videos.

[@housepumpinpc3983]

I've been watching your videos for a few years. I thought I had already subscribed. Well I'm preparing for the worse with fixing an 2005 Expedition. Getting the Lisle tool and watched the videos. Also subscribed TODAY. Thanks.

[@sidewayzmike]

Hey, i love @6:48 using the lyle tool to center the drill, but i gotta one up ya, lol. I got a bit extender from harbor frieght that accepts drill bits with the ¼" drive shank on the end. Those bits should run even truer, than adding a thin piece of metal

[@sidewayzmike]

And @9:20, boy i know how knarley things get when running that burr bit. Ran those for early 2000's mercedes benz e class, they had poor engineered lug bolts that would bend when over torqued. Before i found the air hammer attachment that would allow a wrench to assist getting those lugs out. I learned the hard way running a burr bit to disintgrate those broke lug bolts. Still have nightmares lol

[@mikebrennan4534]

Another tool tip for ya...... In the event the extractor tool wont bite in, GET A NEW EXTRACTOR. I ran into a f150 last month that the tool just wouldn't bite into the "cup". My tool had only been used on about 5 plugs. Luckily my Snap On rep came in later that day and said he had seen that before and spoke with Lisle and they told him to attempt it with a new tool. I thought no way it would work since my tool was virtually new. Surprisingly it worked perfect. looking at the two tools there was no way of noticing the difference. no sign of wear at all. Last week a buddy had the same issue and I told him to get a another tool and same fix for him. Thankfully Snap On warrantied mine.

[@FordTechMakuloco]

Good info

[@danielolguin9040]

Thanks man, this helps alot. I used the cheap O'Reilly's tool with a set that taps threads Into the shell and you have to screw in a tool instead of a backwards threads that bites.

[@jamiewhite6695]

Best video I've watched yet. With out this video I would have been screwed. Works perfectly thank you so much man. Very appreciated

[@52klog]

I have a Cresent x2 long nose ( pointed nose pliers ) and was able to reach the pins to pull them out.

[@robertheintz6398]

I have had success starting the engine and accelerating it and the electrode blows out. But put something over it for safety purposes.works about 60% of the time. Thanks for the vid I will be looking for the tools in your vid this week.

[@redeye2629]

just broke one today, electrode is in the tip of the plug. this is a great way to remove it will have to wait till next week to get the tools. Thanks so much I was wondering why the extractor wouldn't bite now it makes sense after watching countless videos today

[@daltonrichardson5833]

I was wondering if I was going to have to pull the heads. I cannot thank you enough for making this video.

[@12gaugenemo74]

What also works is running a can of injector cleaner off the rail, then getting the engine up to operating temp, then use an impact wrench to take the plugs out. Works on almost all plugs, then you only have to use the tool on the ones that break. Got to maximize that flat rate!!

[@mrexecutive1]

Theres a lot of guys on youtube doing Hot engine extraction with an impact gun along with the carbon treatment process. seem to work for the 100% of the time.

[@FordTechMakuloco]

Yeah that's what they show in the video. I know this is the best method and is talked about in this video but I will never do full hot removal on aluminum threads and then turn around and give the customer a $2,600 bill for having to pull the heads. Maybe on my own personal vehicle.

[@rays7437]

This issue used to happen to my technicians. Under warranty we would replace the head or send the head to a machine shop. It's really rare these days.

[@Jpilgrim30]

Most people I’ve seen fail with the tool is exactly for that reason. They don’t bottom the tools all the way out. I got my buddy out of jam after he stripped one and saved having to pull the head off by dipping the threads of the puller in JB weld and carefully threading it in so I didn’t get the JB weld outside of the shell. I let it sit overnight and cute I’ll be damned if it didn’t come right out. It really wasn’t to save him it was to save me because I would’ve probably been the one having to pull the head 😂

[@computergeek16]

thanks for the tips man. had no clue these lisle tools had been redesigned over the years. i just got mine in the mail today and it happens to have four lines. i hope its a good as the lines predict

[@FordTechMakuloco]

+computergeek16 I just used this latest 4 line tool yesterday for extracting another 6 plugs no problems still going strong.

[@ChancetheCanine]

I just bought one, 4 lines, worked great!!

[@richardobannon6301]

Excellent video! I have taken 2 out so far and both broke off. 4.6 3v Mercury Mountaineer

[@bkbeck1]

Excellent Video! thanks for taking the time to make this. I am dealing right now with this issue. My tool has the 4 lines so hopefully it will not break...

[@Lacasse77]

Great stuff man. I watched all three videos regarding the plug removal, excellent. Thanks you.

[@bill-nj6fc]

check the air pressure in the tool before trying to get the shell out , should be set at 42psi this way it wont break

[@peanutbutterisfu]

I try to get the electrode out with long needle nose, some times you have to dig out some porcelain to get the electrode out but usually I get them out. If the lisle tool won't bite I took a punch and welded a drill bit to it and break up the porcelain and blow it out.

[@locknload9143]

Great Video Thanks! Right after I'm done pulling my valve covers to inspect my phasers and VCTS, (also watching your 4 part videos on timing) I'll be doing my plugs. Sounds like lots of fun! Every since I purchased my truck, I now only watch your videos. Apparently your a super star with the F150s according to everyone on the internet! Keep up the great videos , God knows I can sure use them lol. Man, I miss working on small blocks 350 etc 30 years ago. The engines today are so unnecessary it's not funny! 🇨🇦 Also , just like to say there is a free site out there for F150 owners with lots of help if anyone has questions like I have had. " F-150 Forum" Between the Forum and FordTecMakuloco's is all need to fix you Truck! Thanks again!

[@Dale37]

Guess I got lucky when I changed my plugs two weeks ago. Plugs 3 and 4 broke, one brought the electrode out and the other didn't. I didn't experience the broken electrode the first time I changed my plugs, so I didn't give it much thought and just went to town with the pusher and I didn't have any issues removing the broken piece.

[@alberttremblay560]

Thanks for the vid. I am doing the plugs on a 08 with 256 thousand km on the original plugs. ive broken 4 out of the five i have removed so far. We have a just like that at the shop. The electrode came out on all the ones ive broken so far. the first one came out with the end of the porcelain attached without the shell haha. wish me luck

[@ludditeneaderthal]

Dopey question: if you push the center electrode, and it bottoms on that ground strap without the strap budging, would it be possible to just drive the electrode/porcelain combo through the strap with a good whack on a punch (bushed to fit the guide)? Not trying to drive it clear, but far enough to get thread bite?

[@jasonjoncas5998]

Lent my tool out 2 lines came back with damaged threads new one has 4 lines latest and greatest I assume. Never tried it on my 2007. Plugs still came out like butter over serviced 20,000 KM changes now $200 for plugs doubling that interval.Just want to get another three years out of this puppy. Currently guessing this thing has had an issue with the odometer I estimate 190,000 km.Took your advise on changing to 5W30 and using Pennzoil platinum have used 5w20 in 5km oil changes for the last 3 years. This oil is the most advanced and cleanest will keep the phaser system working for many years.Yea have the classic cold piston slap issue that plagues the modular engines but when it is at operation temperature quiet as the day I got it.Engine has all original internals.Just waiting for 2021 to get a 2018 3 year lease return like this one half price.

[@hammer1726]

Thanks for all the info, can't say enough about the awesome advice you give. Thanks again. Mark

[@vrich3733]

Thanks for the great vids. I'm about to give this a shot on a 2005 with 73000 miles. If they can get the tools heat treating right...... I think a center hole in the tool would clear the electrode and allow the tool to do the job and not need to deal with the electrode at all.

[@vet6822]

sounds like a good idea.

[@michaelszczys8316]

I just got done removing a broken flat washer seal plug that had a lot of torque on it by drilling off the head down in a hole. That was chore enough, if I had one like these I don't think I could take it.

[@FordTechMakuloco]

How to use the Lisle tool to remove Broken Spark Plugs- kzbin.info/www/bejne/eIS8apx4ncp1jqs

[@JoeFpoc]

cool video. ive done a few of these at my other job. for me it was always the back ones that broke :( luckily the tool always got them out. the job im at now wont even touch these plugs, we just tell them to go somewhere else

[@mrrod805]

pussy

[@ReclusiveMountainMan]

I'm willing to bet that a dab of anti-seize would have helped in these situations. What a PITA. Is it the threads in the head, or the design of the spark plug? Thanks for doing this in-depth.

[@williampaventa6796]

Thank you so much! WTF ford?

[@smokeman9798]

This video has been a great help so far. I had five plugs break on me, got four out with the Lisle Tool and the drilling trick. BUT...the number 4 plug, passenger side, rear. It is loose but I can not get it to come out. It is like its still holding on to something. Tough spot to get a set of needle nose pliers into and difficult to see in there. Any ideas? I'm ready to super glue a length of rubber tube on to it for more leverage.

[@FordTechMakuloco]

smokeman9798 needle nose pliers or a flat head screwdriver rock that tip back and for till it breaks loose of the rest of the plug down below.

[@smokeman9798]

FordTechMakuloco Ended up using a needle nose vise grip to grab the top of that plug, then used a long angled pry bar to apply upward force on the vise grip. Came out with the electrode attached. Then used the Lisle tool.

[@Roudter]

Outstanding set of vids brother... Thanks...

[@FordTechMakuloco]

Thanks!!

[@TheSEO106]

So now... get this tool, get these plugs (Motorcraft SP514 / SP547), get these coil packs (MOTORCRAFT IGNITION COIL FOR FORD LINCOLN MERCURY 3L3Z12029BA DG511) and find a day here in Cocoa Beach where it isn’t a mile from the Sun and hope nothing breaks. Have you ever trusted measuring resistance in the coil packs to pass/fail them? I’m not throwing codes but this 2006 EB V8 3V has 104K miles and needs a refresh.

[@johnkerr1877]

What do you do when the thread coller breaks lose and just spins. how do you get the top of the plug broke so you can use the lisle tool?

[@Mceagle54]

2007 Navigator 86,000 - In addition to following your instruction and the TSB, ran a tank of fuel with a strong concentration of Tectron before starting. Allowed carb cleaner to set overnight. 6 of 8 plugs broken. Anticipating issues, purchased the Lisle tool that arrived today. The extractor has 4 grooves machined into the shaft below the threads - perhaps this is a good thing. I am clear on the process, thanks for a greatt video. How do you know when you have the extracor far enought into the shell? Any other insight / suggestion is apprecuated! Thanks

[@markpeterson8983]

Awsome instructions . any advise on extracting broken Napa part # 600- 3148 titanium spark plug insert-

[@brianlaird575]

That tool works great! just had to use it Thursday lol

[@Trex1268]

I remember changing my plugs in my 4.6L. I think I have a 2 valve motor. I bought the Lisle tool but never used it. My plugs all came out with no issue at all.

[@FordTechMakuloco]

Yeah 2v engines are not a problem.

[@diego59316]

Best way to do a 5.4L 3v tune up is to drive around and get it really hot. Then do the tune up using a 3/8 impact gun to pull them out only. I have yet needed to extract a plug using this method.

[@FordTechMakuloco]

+diego59316 Correct I go over this in my removal video.

[@kendrickray7827]

Is it possible to use a bolt breaking lube as well while the motor is hot to get the spark plug out?

[@goxgdl]

Thanks for the video, but what a nightmare. After something like this, 7989 and happy roads.

[@FordTechMakuloco]

Yes they are a nightmare I visit almost everyday.

[@danludwig3679]

What is your advice if I cannot get the tool to grip on the metal collar (no porcelain) and may have worn the collar down?

[@SatchFD]

First of all, great videos. Very informative, I have learned a lot. Quick question, I have an '05 F150 5.4L. Is there an easy way to test for a bad coil?

[@FordTechMakuloco]

Scott Manning Not really if the concern is happening under load. If it is a dead miss yes you just swap coils to see if it follows.

FordTechMakuloco my 5.4L in a F250 would randomly gain power and drop power when driving up a steep hill, even at 1mph while trying to precise park within 3 inches between the bumpers (on steep hill). Or while cruising the speed limit, that it would chug sometimes up and down. Check engine light is on and i got a report from oreilly auto parts that 2 cylinders is not firing correctly.

[@SatchFD]

FordTechMakuloco Thanks so much for the response. Gave the plugs a go. Got 6 of the 8 out with all of them breaking. Went for #7 and all the came out was the hex nut from the plug, no threads. Needless to say, it's in the shop.

[@anof861]

Where do you get the thin piece of metal at for the drill bit to start straight?

[@MrBaraff]

Great videos. I am about to do this on my 6.8L V10 motorhome. Is this as big an issue on these engines? 2005, 84,000 miles.

[@freddricklee2364]

FordTechMakuloko, I have a question about this Video. Can You Please Give Us a rough estimate of the percentages of times 'The Lisle' tool is successful without any complications? ::Regarding the strap successfully breaking as it's meant to:: Thank You MASTER

[@danielmanning5305]

Any suggestions if you strip the metal shell with the Lisle extractor. I messed up and over tightened it

[@FordTechMakuloco]

It is almost impossible to strip the shell. What happened is you didn't go deep enough into the shell, verify the porcelain is pushed down enough and out of the way.

[@danielmanning5305]

@@FordTechMakuloco thanks for the reply but unfortunately I believe I over torqued the extractor when I turned the nut and extractor came out it had metal wrapped around the threads. I think I buggered up the extractor because I can't get it to bite on the other cylinders. I ordered a replacement hopefully it works but I'm concerned about the one cylinder. I'm thinking about using a 3/8" tap or coating the old extractor with loctite and letting it dry in the shell, any other ideas? Thank you

[@amandapurcell1705]

FordTechMakuloco, have you ever had any of the ground strap break when the prociealin pushes through the strap and fall into the cylinder head?

[@williebraun934]

great video. I have a plug where the 9/16 hex sheared from the rest of the metal body of the plug. It also left the center electrode and porcelain flush with the sheared off metal. Any ideas?

[@FordTechMakuloco]

Willie Braun Yes use a large easy out to remove the hex and threads then use this tool for the rest like normal. If You have an email I can send you a picture.

[@matthewhewes]

I used this tool on one broken plug in a 2005 F150 and the pusher broke though the ground strap and I had to remove the broken bits from the piston chamber! One suggestion would be to remove the electrode from the broken piece before using the pusher tool.

[@jeepncolo]

How did you remove the bits from the piston chamber? Just had this happen today. Thank you so much for your time!

[@jimbeamm36]

How about the fine bits of porcelain in the combustion chamber. I think they will destroy the cylinder walls and soon the poorly stupid designed engine is toast.

[@ralphvilla5130]

Thanks for all the info. I have a 2004 Ford 150 with the 3 valve 5.4 engine, my question is: what is the correct replacement plug? Someone told me that the plug that came in my truck when I got it new in 2004 is a Motor-Craft number 515. My truck has 82,000 miles on it and I'm currently looking for a replacement plug's in a Motor-Craft or something better.

[@colt3377]

So I have a 4 line removal kit. No break and the pusher is working well. But I still can’t grip the tip of the spark plug with the puller. It stripped a little bit not enough that it would grab. Tried on 3 diff ones . Please help!!! I can seem to put enough pressure for the pusher to grab. I watched a lot of videos and they all seem to grab easy. I’m even heating up the tips wth a heat gun. Cleaned out ect .

[@FordTechMakuloco]

Use a thin long flat blade screw driver or straight pic to chisel out some of the porcelain so the tool can go deeper into the shell. You are not gripping it enough because the shell has been pushed down too so you are in the danger zone here.

[@colt3377]

@@FordTechMakuloco Thanks for the fast response . Yea when you look in the tip they have plenty of room for all 4 threads. But yet it never grabs more then 2 on any of them. I tried 4 different ones and no luck. Seems the end of the puller is stripped. Not sure what to do now. I either need the tool machined or filed? Or call lisle and get a new puller? Im wondering if its the stripped tool end wont grab? Man ford really got me on this one. Any other advice would be appreciated. I feel lost and no truck atm. This job seems like it should be half a day at best . But with these plugs its days for me.

[@colt3377]

.

[@FordTechMakuloco]

Did you do what I said? I have been down this road many times and this is the fix.

[@colt3377]

FordTechMakuloco I’ll try that thanks. Do I need to heat the tip at all? Also after I break it up do I need to vacuum out or blow it out!? The puller end does look stripped tho. Was worried about the tip breaking ect!? Thanks for help

[@jpr9728]

Does it help to seafoam your truck before you attempt to remove the plugs?

[@FordTechMakuloco]

+Jp R In reality it should but I have found it doesn't the carbon is too far up

[@stevenakn1]

Can u hammer that tool in to make it grab and push through.or run a punch through then dig out the bits with pliers.dont know that's what I would try before removing heads.

[@FordTechMakuloco]

Steven Akn1 Yes I have chunked off the porcelain before to get better access never pulled a head yet for this.

[@stevenakn1]

Yea that would make meloko.

[@charlescruz1898]

Hello I need your help what courses the spark plug blow out on the #3 and #4 .... I have the 03 f150 5.4 l super crew fx4 and it was fine till Tuesday on my birthday the truck made explosion notice and start misfire look under the hood and it blew out the pack off .... Marry Christmas

[@FordTechMakuloco]

charles cruz On those the threads are not cut enough very common, a shop can tap the hole easily and have you back on the road same day.

[@charlescruz1898]

Nothing else gets damaged?

[@FordTechMakuloco]

charles cruz Nope very simple repair actually, cut new threads and install a new insert.

[@kentuckycowboy2]

FordTechMakuloco Have you a video on this repair ?

[@charlescruz1898]

kentuckycowboy2​ he does look at all his videos

[@steveking4000]

Great video, I've got an '08 Expedition and removed 6 plugs, two of them broke. The extraction tool worked great on one, but the second one broke leaving 3/4in of the electrode protruding. I didn't know how to push or pull it out. Tried needle nose pliers to no avail. It was third one back on drivers side. Any suggestions? I didn't even attempt #4 or #8 because if they had broken off I didn't have enough room to use the extraction tool. Btw I used carb cleaner to soak the plugs overnight

[@FordTechMakuloco]

+Steve King I would push it down with the extraction pusher tool then drill the balled up electrode out as shown in the video and continue with the extraction.

[@inactive67]

Funny same name with an 08 F-150 what a coincidence, and yes it is a great video.

[@VegasStuto]

The guy who changed mine out last time said the trick was to get the truck heated up to operating temperatures and then shut it off and immediately remove the plugs. Zero broken!

[@FordTechMakuloco]

Yes but you run the risk of pulling threads out too with them being so hot and soft.

[@freecheese4143]

Hey ...have you tried the NAPA took? Appears to be a logical design.

[@godofawesum223]

The Napa tool is exactly the same things as the Lisle 65600 tool.

[@cody_rightnow6137]

Brian i have successfully changed 7 of 8 plugs but cylinder 7 broke off and was not flush meaning porcelain and electrode remained and i could not get a bite. Tried drilling out and using 1/4 shank bur bit no luck. Even made my own pusher insert to push the porcelain even further to get a bite no luck. Electrode is mushroomed and porcelain remains. Now the shell is stripped on one side and i am thinking i will have to remove the head. I have a borescope to see whats going on and it doesnt look pretty. What i am looking for from you is any ford material or your knowledge on how to remove the head. It is the drivers side head so lots of shit in the way. I know ill need a valve tool and a few other things but any help you can give me would be great. Want to do it myself because other people charge a ton cause of how tedious it is. Hope to hear from you... Cody

[@stevenrivinius1484]

Just that might help you might want to use a masonry bit cuz it'll go right through that porcelain

[@yusieldiaz7092]

Hello , I am writing to you because I have a 150 econoline with a 4.6 engine but I do not know how many valves it has , the problem is that I have 2 spark plugs that broke and I live in the Chilean Patagonia in the city of Punta Arenas , which It makes a repair of this type very difficult for me and I want to buy the tools that will serve my engine, can you give me some advice on how to identify the number of valves in a 2010 econoline? please

[@scooterkinnibrugh5663]

Where did you get the drill bit extension? I am having a hard time finding 1 like the 1 you have in the video.

[@FordTechMakuloco]

This is the same kind of extension- amzn.to/2EGynJq

[@tobedetermined0647]

Just got mine worked like you demonstrated

[@SILLYSUSIESUSANSUE]

best video on this topic I have seen

[@robertgift]

Well done video! Let's make a simple spark plug replacement into a time-wasting, complicated problem. Ford engineers can be such *idiots*.

[@godofawesum223]

Ford didn't design the sparkplug Sherlock, Motorcraft did. Ford fucked up when the chose to source this type of plug for factory instalment but they're not the ones who designed the damn thing. The solution is to use 2 piece plugs after you replace them.

[@jarodallen2251]

@@godofawesum223 And what company owns Motorcraft?

[@arnoldbaclig7709]

I don't know why they still like ford🤔🤔🤔

[@gloknor]

Jared Allen : Yep the answer to your question is .....Ford . Ford owns Motorcraft , They are responsible for this P.O.S. design .

[@jamescastleman2488]

@@godofawesum223 kki7 l

[@cottonhi-sk1yh]

Finally shell is out but spark plug threads are stripped out new plug won't tighten up what's the best way to repair it and cheapest without having to buy a time sert kit at nearly 400 bucks

[@nicholasslodki703]

Did Ford did fix this problem eventually? with the plugs being welded or something like that, instead of press-fit, during plug manufacturing. I had 6 of 8 break 3 years ago. Had to pull the passenger side head. The shield was stuck in the head. Helluva time.

[@daveygulley3176]

I just had this happen to me last night on cylinders 4 and 8 I'm more than nervous about attempting this on my 06 with 104k. 6 are done and the lisle tool is not getting a bite at all. I'm torn between attempting to drill a little as in this video or sending it to a shop. I have very little room for error as on cylinder 4 my dad was able to get a small bite and stripped a collar of threads off

[@mikecont9742]

Great step by step. Invaluable information...

[@Rondell-j5n]

What do you do if when you were using the extractor the lower portions of the plug come loose and falls into the cylinder cavity?? Is there a fix without head removal ??

[@marks6072]

Does the 5L f150 have these types of problems or any other big $ fix issues?? Thanks

[@FordTechMakuloco]

Mark S Nope great engines, except for the knocking noises on the early models.

[@bold2981]

very informative and easily understandable video.. thank you so much your great !!!!

[@cadillacman8223]

2005 f150 for sale! could use spark plugs other than that it's a clean 2 owner!

[@V10PDTDI]

I don't work on Ford but I heard that to help get them out is to do a upper combustion chamber cleaner in the tank the customer drives with the vehicule with the cleaner in the tank and you could do a intake mist cleaning prosess and put some penetrating oil in the spark plugs well with the engine hot for the night and the next day try to remouve them so does it mean that after the original spark plugs have been replaced the issue is gone do you put some intiseize coumpound when you put new plugs in ?

[@FordTechMakuloco]

V10PDTDI Yes I have multiple videos on removal and installation of the new plugs as listed in the description.

[@StonebergerSpeedShop]

I know this video is older but if you can please respond, what happens if the porcelain isn't broke, but just the shell came off, it's all in tact other wise, I really don't want to break the porcelain in there if I don't have to.

[@strategicservices9906]

Is the problem just w/ 4.6 and 5.4? I'm ready to do spark plug replacement for 2008 ford f150 4.2 v6. Will I have any issues w/ that engine?

[@OldManGarage]

Your videos are great, very informative!

[@redeye2629]

Do you have any way to test the coil on plugs for the 3 valve 5.4

[@FernandoGonzalez-vi1gb]

Great video:( I have a 2006 F-150 with the 5.4 and 80k miles....I just found out the issue of the spark plugs. I'm thinking to trade in my truck for a 2014 Raptor with the 6.2, Does the 6.2 has the same issues? Do you know if there's any issues at all with the 6.2? Thanks in advance

[@dylanstephens4179]

Fernando Gonzalez nah it doesn’t. It was only the triton motors.

[@HumanVsHumans]

Tried pulling these spark plugs out of an expedition on friday. 4 came out and 4 broke off. not looking forward to finishing the job tomorrow..

[@bruceknapp2709]

I used your bur method because I couldn't get the extractor to grip. I was then able to get screwed in tight. I have four line extractor that I have pulled two threads off of. This thing is really tight. Do you have any idea how to proceed?

[@OldManGarage]

I went to my shop and looked at my Lesle tool and it has 4 lines on it, I wonder if it is a 4th revision? I bought it in 2012. What do you think?

[@FordTechMakuloco]

1bbpracing must be I am not sure when we bought our last version but yes it seems they have marked them for engineering purposes.

[@cottonhi-sk1yh]

Having trouble with #1 plug extraction the threaded part of plug is all that came out entire plug still intact and broke off top section of porcelain chipped away at it a little bit may have damaged threads for spark plug trying to break it off can not get threads on the end of pusher to grip so tried drilling it out a little bit seams like I'm deep enough down but can't get extractor to bite in good enough is it possible that I still have some porcelain in the way or is it due to not being able to use the pusher tool or what any ideas or help would be greatly appreciated 6 out of 8 plugs broke off and this is the last one that I need to get out and may need to repair plug hole as well because pusher tool just keeps turning like hole is stripped out

[@jakemeyers2839]

I have the 4th generation one. worked great on the first two that broke (the electrode didn't get stuck in the tip on those) got 7 of them replaced than the 8th one the electrode didn't come out with it. I used the pusher and it bottomed out. The first time I used the left handed threads I got some resistance (like it was threading in) now ever since than I can't get it to get any grip. I don't think the tool broke it doesn't look like it is... My problem is it's the 8th one all the way in the back. No way I can get a drill at it. Any ideas?

[@StayingBack71]

Same thing happened to me #8 cylinder, I had no choice but to pull the head....While your in there, Check your timing chain-tensioners and Phasers......You don't have much else of a choice

[@paulfiebke3909]

Doesn't the tool have a lifetime warranty? Thanks for showing us this 👌

[@robdog5.0w]

If the Lisle Tool was gun drilled it would go over electrode and be stronger , and maybe a tube style spot weld cutter to get porcelain first, just some thoughts

[@EMTBLAKELY]

I have the 4.6 lt engine. I'm trying to extract the broke off threaded portion but I cant seem to find the right bit. what the hell is the center electrode made of? hells its a motor craft plug but not the one for the triton engine. I need help. big time

[@FordTechMakuloco]

Your best best is to use an extractor that will stake the inside of the threaded portion like this- amzn.to/2j6XUjd

[@FordTechMakuloco]

Of course you need to chip away at the porcelain and wiggle the center electrode out.

[@totallybadass666]

Will this tool work on the 05-09 mustang gt 4.6?

[@FordTechMakuloco]

Yes it works on any 3v engine.