Ford 4.0L Timing Chain Replacement, Cloyes 9-0398SB

[@Slonya23]

Thank you Ford for making one of your most popular engines timing components so hard to service.

[@PiggyWiggyHunter]

This is the best informative video I've seen in ages .

[@Jigar-kamboh]

Hi

[@Cj2a46]

*******Things I learned during my 4.0 SOHC timing chain replacement: 1:use a longer crank bolt to help get the balancer off. 2: installing the bank 2 chain guide is tough, requires force and may break the guide if not careful (the segment that this video skips). 3: I had the cylinder heads off to do head gaskets, had both front and rear chains off at the same time- torquing the jackshaft bolts is possible without the rear jackshaft sprocket holding tool- Use the cam sprocket holding tool and the tensioner tool on bank 2 to hold the timing chain and torque the front jackshaft bolt, then put a bolt into the bank 1 cylinder head and prop the breaker bar against it while you torque the rear jackshaft bolt.------- then set bank 2 timing with special tools and then set bank 1 timing. 4: the timing cover has to be centered on the crank otherwise the front seal will leak badly. I used a micrometer and positioned it best i could and tightened down the cover, and re-checked it. 5: the front crank seal should be pressed in with the plastic crank seal dust shield so the plastic shield is flush with the cover. 6: If you pull out the injectors and the insert in the cylinder head comes out with it, replace it. (ford calls these injector seal adapters) they press into the cylinder head and are hard to get out without valve removal. These were the issues i came across during the challenge, and are solutions that i used with success. Hope this helps someone before they dig too deep of a hole.

[@BB-hi5of]

My rear timing chain is rattling a lot lately. Was debating on replacing the motor but i will probably go ahead with the fix you demonstrated here! Thanks alot ! will be playing this video a few times

[@1TexasDallas]

You guys are awesome! Thank you so very much for making this video!! I bought your product because of it. Keep up the good work.

[@sigguy1361]

Great instructional video. Was bummed when you said "remove the engine." Dang. A little more than I anticipated.

[@nike1337ib]

Sig Guy same here since it's for my work truck.

[@sigguy1361]

Esdras Ibarra I'm going to try changing out the tensioners first. I ordered them from Ford (could get them cheaper, but I wanted quality with this particular part) and will see if that fixes the issues I'm hearing.

[@sigguy1361]

GoTrump - So I swapped out tensioners this last week. I went with genuine Ford parts, not just the ones from Napa, in a rare move to have the best quality part for that particularly important part of the engine. They were kind of a B to get out, but I got them swapped, and it's much quieter now. I also saw I was low on oil (since you have to drain all the oil to do this process anyway) and I think that contributed to the rattle. At any rate, the chain rattle is greatly reduced, and I think we are in good shape. now if I could just figure out where I have a tiny leak in the coolant system that causes that noxious burning coolant steam from under the hood. Arghh..

[@jerryjamify]

That's what I call a professional, informative video. Thank you for posting....

[@BrianSmith-lo3mj]

Finally! Someone actually posted a How-To video on this procedure. I've been looking for years to find a complete instructional video like this and this is the first one. I have a 2004 Ranger with this engine and it makes the horrible rattle sound on start up. It's a 2WD, so how likely is the noise just coming from the front? I just hate the idea of pulling the whole engine and replacing everything.

[@Cloyes01]

Brian, thanks for the kind words on the video. It is difficult to say, but being a startup rattle, it is more than likely an issue with the hydraulic tensioners. In the early 4.0L SOHC engines it was more likely to come from the rear bank because of a lack of oil to the tensioner. This was addressed by Ford with the addition of the oil restrictor rod that is shown in the video. Engines with the restrictor rod installed have about a 50/50 chance of noise coming from either bank. All that said, if you've got a startup rattle, you may want to replace the hydraulic tensioners. If the rattle is only heard at startup then you are getting oil to the tensioners, but one of them isn't staying primed up over a period of time.

[@BrianSmith-lo3mj]

You're very welcome, I actually just got done pulling the engine and replacing the rear plastic tensioner.(It was shattered into 50 different pieces) I replaced the 27mm tensioners 6 months ago and it didn't do a thing for the rattle noise. It was one hell of a job, and it took me 10 days. I had to pay the transmission shop over $250 to re-install the transmission because I couldn't do that part myself. I get there to pick up my beautiful red Ranger and start the engine and I heard the rattle coming from the front this time. I was just devastated. It's like the front tensioner broke right after I fixed the one in the back. I can't believe I done all that work, and now the noise is louder. I guess I just have to take my beating and fix the front now. I'm really thinking about lifting the body off of the frame this time and converting it to a 4-wheel drive.UPDATE: I took my beating and tore down the whole front part of the engine and after I removed the front timing chain cover I noticed that the primary tensioner on the passenger side (the one with the 7 metal leaves in it) was busted into four different pieces and it was laying down in the oil pan. I also replaced the primary guide on the driver's side. I'll give another update when I put the engine all back together and start it up. I really hope this fixes the rattle.

[@hansgruper872]

Brian Smith You can't. The engine is a 4x2 which means there is no balance shaft. If u converted it to a 4x4 without a balance shaft, that engine would rumble like crazy.

[@BrianSmith-lo3mj]

LOL ... I hope you were kidding. That balance shaft on a 4X4 4.0 is useless. I bet you can put 2WD 4.0 SOHC engines in 4X4 trucks all day long and not notice a difference between the two.

[@hansgruper872]

Brian Smith Not kidding. Build a 4.0 without it. It's there for a reason. The weights on the crank can't absorb all the vibrations. You'd be surprised how much it helps.

[@brianpinzon2109]

There's a problem within this video as you get towards the end on time of scene at 10:30. You can see the original tensioner in place and not the tool tensioner. The when you see the tool tensioner back on scene time 10:44 as if he's just taking it off. This part is very misleading.

[@MrPami9899]

great video, finally find a video that explain the step by step procedure, not too bad of a job, taking the engine out is pain, lol

[@dstock100]

souldnt be that hard tho

[@stuartloggins3691]

After watching you do it i don't understand why anyone would be afraid to do it themselves.

[@georgestephens5078]

Good instruction vidieo I am wondering why you guys dont' give replacenent bolts for the tourque to yield bolts with the full timing kit ? or did I get shorted?

[@joeh2277]

Excellent video if I did it correctly, I suggest adding the two torque to yield Jack shaft bolts to your kit.

[@Roscotech]

Ok I have no complaints about the video, however! I suggest checking the thickness of the crank gears with a mike. As the video states there are two different versions of this set up. With and without a counter balance chain. A tech at our shop used what was supposed to be the kit without a counter balance gear. I believe the crank gears were too thin because when the engine was put back in it would not start. We spent well over a week checking everything over and over again to find that the balancer (when seated) went in almost 3/8 of an inch farther than it did with the OE gears. This engine had the balancer with the thin steel exciter ring for the crank position sensor. On the exciter ring there is a double gapped tooth that is used both for locating the locking tool to set the cam timing but also to let the PCM know where TDC is so that it can start the firing order. If you look at the double tooth on the thin steel exciter ring you will see that the double gap is there only to just before the outer edge of the ring. At that point the double gap is bridged to keep the integrity of the ring. With the thinner gears the balancer went back far enough that the crank sensor was seeing the bridge instead of the double gapped tooth. The engine would not start because the PCM never saw the double gap and therefore did not know when to start the firing order.

[@paulpetty7509]

Good to see some sharing good information as the guy in the video doesn't clarify this.

[@robynsecor9042]

Great trouble shooting by your team. Does Cloyes employ engineers or QC on their staff? 3/8" is a HUGE difference!!!!

[@bradharper9282]

Great informative video. My explorer is young (84,000 miles) and has developed a horrible sound from previous owners abuse. No damage on chains or sprockets, but those horrible guides are destroyed. Easy fix! (Thank God the back chain makes no noise, can't pull the engine on your only car and still make it to work :P)

[@manuelseniceros9550]

So did you get away with just doing one chain because I can't afford to pull the motor it only sounds like the one in the front of my 2003 ranger is giving me issues

[@nofortunatesonII]

@@manuelseniceros9550 Have you checked the hydraulic tensioner?

[@danielclark5170]

That has to be the dumbest timing chain design ever.

[@nofortunatesonII]

The 427 SOHC probably runs a close second place to the 4.0 SOHC.

[@robynsecor9042]

Excellent video. The technician is well versed and competent.

[@ibretus]

The balance shaft was not aligned correctly that motor will have a good vibration . There are 2 shafts in the balance unit that need to be aligned not just the drive sprocket

[@1Cobranut]

Thanks. Very nice video. Much more straightforward than the Ford Workshop manual, which says to remove the cylinder heads to do this job? I guess they just want to sell more gaskets and torque to yield head bolts. SMH

[@jwoodby1]

Very helpful video! I purchased TTY jackshaft bolts from Ford dealership. Front bolt part #2L2Z-6279-AA rear bolt part# W703167-S430

[@Cloyes01]

Thanks for posting!

[@edbmw13]

I ordered a rear JS bolt from Ford in Humble TX with no luck (varios times) finally went to Mac Haik Ford on I-10 got it.

[@martystevens8357]

Thank you for the reply! I agree. Maybe include that on future videos so others won't think it's a good idea when they work on engines. A leak-down test can check for bent valves. Remove the timing chain for 1 side of the cam and get it at TDC and with both valves closed. Then if the valve leaks you'll know before putting the engine back in. You can do the test before replacing the chain with new parts.

[@macsavers]

I installed your timing chain kit on my 2006 Mustang V6. It was working great. While at a stop light it died on me while idling and I could not get it to restart. It cranked just fine. I confirmed spark, fuel and working injectors, so I took off the valve covers and the passenger side is too far ahead and the drivers side is too far behind. Any idea why that would be? The timing chains seem tight and in good shape.

[@Jmen-og8iv]

Thank you for this video! It’s about to save me a lot of time and probably an engine!

[@33mustard]

Good video. Just installed the cloyes timing kit in my 4.0. I wish it came with the torque to yeild bolts for the ends of the jackshaft. Got the kit home and opened the box, then had to Chase those down separately.

[@xtra3975]

Where were you able to find the TTY bolts? Im trying to avoid having to go to Ford if I can help it. Cheers

[@ronaldtober9443]

nice video, did my 2004 mercury mountaineer a year ago and used cloyes complete kit with balance shaft, also got the tools for the job , it went smooth as well as redid heads wish i had this video then for a reference but oh well. You do need to pull the engine .

[@jtmartin8445]

around what millage does it need to be replaced ?

[@ronaldtober9443]

Did mine at 207,000 the balance shaft chain was the worst one , the chain was hitting the cradle and real loud. but the rest were a little loose , but now as quiet as ever .. happy happy

[@jtmartin8445]

was it making a grinding noise because the one we have is a 2002 and has over 220,000 on it ind it's making like a grinding/taping noise

[@AllanDee]

Hey Ron. Quick question for you since you pulled the heads. Do you know what special process and tools he's talking about in the video required to remove and reinstall the camshaft roller followers? Thanks!

[@mariagiron3970]

Ronald Tober hey do you have to. set the. timeingchain if the chainjump. timeing.

[@javiscancino]

Great vdo, thks, just one question, when you say, for example, torque to 35psi plus 90 degrees, that means, when you reach the 35psi you still turn 90 degrees more?

[@Cloyes01]

Exactly, you will torque the bolt to 35 lb/ft then turn the bolt an additional 90 degrees (1/4 of a turn.)

[@javiscancino]

10,4 Thks. @@Cloyes01

[@eulasdubois3181]

Very thankful of the video. It helped alot. I would edit the balancer selection of this video by putting some time of instruction on the video to aline the balancer shaft and hole under the balancer shaft. Thanks a ton

[@jerryjamify]

I'm doing mine, could you tell me the size of the torx bolt on the large sprocket

[@mikepier1]

Wow, very involved work. My 99 just started making a light rattling noise a few weeks, and sure enough when dropped the oil pan today, I found 2 broken plastic pieces of what looked like the guide. I am the original owner, my truck has 155K miles. I took care of it religiously, but now I must anticipate that the rest of the assembly and engine will fail, and at that point, I might kiss it goodbye. Not worth it for me anyway to pull this engine and repair it. The truck is 18 years old.

[@connoreurich1465]

A V8 drop seems much more time efficient.

[@clarenceoosterhoff7199]

Just wondering why Cloyes doesn't include the 2 bolts that must be replaced in an otherwise complete kit?

[@Cloyes01]

Those bolts, with proper torque-to-yield functionality, do not exist in the aftermarket. At this time Cloyes would be purchasing OE bolts and selling them at a markup to include them in the kit. For now customers can save money and purchase them separately, or reuse (not recommended.) We are currently working with a bolt manufacturer to produce proper aftermarket replacements. Hopefully they will be available soon.

[@Gfaze]

Hello I just recently had a shop install this exact kit into my 2004 Ford explorer 4.0 4x4. After the install I still hear a mild "chatter" coming from the front driver side of the engine. Is it possible the front cassette is defective or installed improperly? The tech said his wife's explorer has always made the same type of sound since it was new. Is the chatter noise something I should expect or is there something wrong?

[@Gfaze]

Well since I got no response, I did my own homework and figured I'd provide an answer in case anybody else has the same problem. After speaking with the tech that did the install, installer error was not the problem. I pulled the hydraulic timing tensioner from the left bank and discovered that the Cloyes hydraulic tensioner was defective. The tensioner is supposed stiffen up once primed with oil. No matter how much I tried, the tensioner wouldn't prime. I still had the old tensioner I had purchased from Ford over a year ago and that one was very easy to prime. I installed it and voila! No more rattling/chattering!!! You can't assume new parts aren't defective. I hope this helps somebody else in the future.

[@robynsecor9042]

This reply helps people in the future if they think of buying parts from Cloyes.

[@FT4Freedom]

Yes. Tensioners should be pre primed before installing to ensure hydraulic seals. This is very important. See yt for pre priming tensioner.

[@2koolchris291]

Dang. That’s a huge job. Well if it doesn’t get done the old Ford Explorer will become the old exploder. Such fun.

[@martystevens8357]

Wouldn't it be a good idea to put RTV on the tensioner threads and other fasteners contacting oil?

[@Cloyes01]

No, the tensioners have gasket rings that seal the oil. Do not use silicone/RTV on any threads, and especially on the hydraulic tensioners. Silicone/RTV can clog vital oil passages.

[@yolandapadilla8239]

nice video hey one question the rear chain don`t have timing marks does it?

[@nike1337ib]

great video! very helpful will be purchasing the kit from you guy's when i do mine

[@santaclause2875]

Great video, thanks for posting! But still, I don't understand why Ford didn't just use the tried-and-true push rod valve train on this engine. What advantages did they think would be had with this overly-complicated valve train?? It's still only two valves per cylinder, that's easily had with a single camshaft down the center of the block, and conventional push rod operated, a bullet-proof system that worked for 100 years.

[@primitiveassembly199]

it’s german

[@noconsentgiven]

Thats why they changed because it was bullet-proof and long-lasting. Planned obsolescence can't have things lasting too long, smh😑. Ford warned about this crap and what would happen to engineering standards.

[@jbarajas909]

My mustang has 223k and still running. If you don’t want to deal with it then do your oil changes on time

[@jbarajas909]

Call 1800 junkyard and shush

[@nessiedestiny8252]

Timing chain has nothing to do with oil change lol

[@jbarajas909]

How you think chains get lubricated? Run shitty/dirty oil and plastic guides will wear out faster. Then chain will get loose

[@ronaldbrown9638]

Or buy Chevy your call

[@ronaldbrown9638]

@@nessiedestiny8252 wow really how do you think the timing chain gets lubricated

[@sharpcarco]

This is the spectacular video!!

[@maxpaul11]

Missing a lot of technical points bro!

[@leejohnson9338]

Great instructional video! I really appreciate you guys that take the time to give us tech's time saving information that helps maximize profitability! Lee

[@hectorortega9131]

This is harder than deactivating a ticking bomb.

[@gused82]

I'm ready to start redoing this project again, I did it and it failed one of the tensioner guide broke right when I started the engine , I put it on my garage for 2 almost 3 years on hold , now I'm about to start redoing it again, I couldn't get a ford mechanic to come and do it , no one wants to mess with this engine, I even brought a retired old ford mechanic that knew about this issues before even production started, he was sent 1 of the 6 prototype engines back in the early 90s for possible production, and showed me the records, Mr Lee the mechanic told me that this is one of the most hated and underperformed engines from ford that was design to produce more money in parts due to the design, he recommended not to use it bc all this timing issues but ford decided to start producing even with the negative feedback from their own master fordexclusive mechanics. I found that my tensioner were not loaded and needed to be preloaded with oil manually, the slack of them without oil causes the chain to slap against the fragile guides and brake, the preloading must be manual, the engine wont load them with a few spins, the amount of pressure on them need to be higher... I spoke to cody about this issue before , and since my wife is happy driving a mercedes there was no need to repair this 15kusd 08 explorer with 99k miles or junk until now that will probably sell or crash or something ...lol

[@northdakotaham1752]

I would trash that engine and find a good used one from the boneyard, install it then sell the vehicle. Been driving Fords for over 50 years and after watching this video would never consider buying a vehicle with one of these engines.

[@gused82]

@@northdakotaham1752 I'm about to install the engine , I'm confident enough that this time it will work, aleast to sale it and to get the mercedes my wife deserves , instead of this explorer ....

[@northdakotaham1752]

@@gused82 I like the Explorer and have two of them but both with V8 engines. Where I live all wheel or 4 wheel drive is a must. Good luck on your project!

[@Mabentuna]

This is the most informative video on this engine . Awesome job! Wish I seen it years ago. Lol

[@nofortunatesonII]

Do these kits include any bolts that are TTY?

[@Cloyes01]

No, they do not come with the bolts.

[@nofortunatesonII]

@@Cloyes01 Dealer only for the bolts?

[@Cloyes01]

@@nofortunatesonII That would be our recommendation. There may be some aftermarket options that we are not aware of, but I would be skeptical of their quality.

[@nofortunatesonII]

@@Cloyes01 Thank-you.

[@jerryjamify]

I did my timing but the top chain guid on the left broke, I dont think it was getting oil. Do you know why these engines would be running dry at the timing chain? I'm taking it apart now to see what all happed.

[@WilliamBush1967]

The rear jack shaft bearing may have spun on the engine causing loss of oil

[@socram321]

Very common problem for these engines.

[@armandovelazquez8383]

Could you please let me know where can I buy the cam and crank holding shaft special tools, thank you much

[@aaliyahjackson66]

Amazon actually sells some

[@cassconner6023]

This repair is above my pay-grade :-)

[@NexGenCarGuys]

how do you remove the crank keyway .. to remove balance shaft sprocket ?

[@ghostmost2614]

Does an upgraded more durable guide exist?

[@russianwolf6561]

What tools are all needed for this? Socket sizes,torque bits etc etc

[@MrManicola]

very good video and i now know that I cannot do this

[@boboynunez5805]

Do you have a video if the same engine jumped time how do you adjust the camshafts? When putting it back together?

[@Cloyes01]

You will still follow the same procedures, but you will need to get the camshafts realigned first. Try to rotate the crankshaft to a position where all 3 pistons are down on one bank. Then rotate and position the camshaft on that bank using the tool from the tool kit. You will then repeat on the other side. Once both camshafts are properly positioned you can move your crank to the correct position and install your crank holding tool.

[@ronaldjohnson3961]

I, changed my timing chain with a pipe wrench, and a cresent wrench in,3 hours you don't need all those expensive tools they are talking about,they just want you to spend uneesarry money, I took mine too Bird culgen Ford in Waco Texas to show to show them, I didn't need the expensive tools they were trying to sell me,why can't they be honest

[@johnfloyd2551]

For all this trouble.. May as well do a complete rebuild... Why is the the right timing chain on the rear? Because ford didnt wanna make left and right 4.0 ohc heads...

[@paulstandaert2042]

John Floyd That is what I thought. But if the 2 head castings were in fact the same, the left and right head gaskets would be the same but they are not. The differences are actually significant.

[@almostsk8terjamie]

Ford took the OHV block and made it SOHC. I agree with you, wish they would have kept everything on the front.

[@robynsecor9042]

Floyd, The heads are different castings. As you can see, there is no hole drilled for the hydraulic tensioner on the right bank cylinder head. The chain is in the rear because the engine block is offset side to side. To have the chain in the front, would have made the engine several inches longer and you would need a front cover all the way to the bottom of the right cylinder head.

[@terrypaquette2824]

Does the limited lifetime warranty cover catastrophic engine failure for a failed timing component? ASE mechanic and am looking at doing this job on my own vehicle, cloyes kit is very nice but i would like to be sure of the warranty before i purchase one

[@Cloyes01]

Your warranty is cover by the vendor that you purchase the components from. Most major parts stores offer the lifetime warranty along with labor claim programs that will help pay for damages if the parts are found to be at fault. Check with your vendor to see what kind of coverage they offer and if you would qualify to file a labor claim if necessary.

[@Jili_Stang]

Do you have to take off the harmonic balancer to take off the timing cover and then reinstall it so you can put the tool on?

[@Cloyes01]

Yes, that is correct.

[@classicstangbrn8964]

This is the best video I've seen on a truly poorly designed system. I have never been able to remove the ds chain cassette up out of the head or install through the top, what I'm I doing wrong?

[@hectorortega9131]

You need a bigger hammer

[@johnmiller5085]

How do u find top dead center do u have to bring up 1 on a compression storke

[@Scott.Farkus]

7:32 Aren't the timing marks on the balance shaft(2 marks on the cog) supposed to be aligned as shown, and also the timing marks on the lower shaft(2 holes) supposed to be aligned with the seam on the right side at 3:00 O'clock, before installing the sprockets and chain? In the video the cog is aligned correctly; however, the marks on the lower shaft are pointing at 11:00 O'clock not 3:00 O'clock.

[@joshmclarty1704]

I have a 99 ranger with 4.0 ohv if I put flat top pistons in it will the valves hit or am I good an can I put non roller lifters in it

[@farfromperfect4643]

Wrong place to ask this. If you have Facebook, join Ford Ranger Crazy, has over 14,000 members. Very good info. If not, consult The Ranger Station forums.

[@hiyutoday]

witch way is up on the con rods for this engine? if you know i would be in app

[@joegregory6948]

Help What do I need to do if one side of my cam is little off and my tole will not lay flat on head It’s up about 1/2” on one side when stubs are in slots

[@kellybriton-jones8016]

Engine jumped time?

[@Cloyes01]

It really depends on where you are at in the process. But either way you will likely need to loosen the camshaft sprocket bolt and rotate the camshaft to the proper position to install the tool, then tighten.

[@paulstandaert5709]

It looks like I just had a front secondary timing chain break at about 3 months and 3,000 miles. I have to tear it down to see what the case is. If it appears to be plenty wet with oil, this will be the last Cloyes timing kit that I will buy. There was also some fitment issues with the primary chain guide that requires some Macgyvering to deal with. I did talk to someone at their customer support about it, and never got a good answer other than, "it must be defective." Well, mass produced injection molded stuff doesn't have this kind of defect, so just getting a replacement would have had the same problem.

[@paulstandaert5709]

I verified that I, indeed, have a broken secondary chain on the left cylinder bank. When the chain broke, it jammed up the jackshaft sprocket, causing the primary chain sprocket to slip and go out of time, resulting in the left bank of cylinders mashing up the exhaust valves. Yes, I used a new jackshaft bolt and torqued it according to Ford. And it took plenty of force to remove the bolt. I have no idea why the chain broke. I have a bunch of pictures here: www.dropbox.com/sh/onj1yl2sx6epx68/AADesXSm8BXlvtXDj5q1m_L-a?dl=0 So far, there have been four issues with the Cloyes products during this process: 1.) When the left bank secondary timing chain cassette arrived from Rock Auto, the plastic guide was broken. Broken how, why, I do not know. It didn't look like it could have been broken in shipping with how it was packaged. Who knows? 2.) The primary chain guide did not fit--the mounting bosses and oil galley plug are of equal height. The guide didn't fit because in order for it to fit, the oil galley had to be recessed in. I used washers to space it away from the mounting hole. I think that worked fine. 3.) The primary chain tensioner went kiddy wumpus as shown in one of the pics in the link above. The roll pin worked its way out a bit causing the plastic wear surface to not be parallel with the chain. 4.) The secondary chain broke. I have no idea why. Bad tensioner? Just look at the broken chain links. There are broken links in 3 different places on the chain. Strange. I really think that I somehow got a defective chain. It was wet with oil, the parallel alignment of the sprockets is perfect... as far as I can tell, the tensioner was functioning as it should. My cylinder head rebuilder says that although he hasn't done a lot of these heads due to the economics of repairing these engines, he has never had someone call him and ask why a timing chain broke on one of them.

[@FT4Freedom]

Cloyes has failed on many occasions.

[@timbell1415]

will this kit work on the 4x4 as well? I see one is offered for 4x4 but does not come with all this kit has

[@Cloyes01]

Hi Tim, the 9-0398SB will work for any 4.0L SOHC engine with a balance shaft. 2 or 4 wheel drive.

[@trooperturner]

whats the part number for the tensioner tool kit is it otc6488?

[@mgillam333]

do you have a video for the same engine with no balance shaft?

[@Cloyes01]

We do not have a video for the engine without balance shaft. Our kit number for an engine w/o balance shaft is 9-0398SC. If you have any specific questions about the install please call our tech line.

[@lincolnhobartmiller]

Thank u Sir does the kit come with the specific tools ie cam tool, primary locking tool etc, thank you

[@Cloyes01]

The timing kit will not come with any tools. The tools we used in the video were part of OTC's 6488 kit. That tool kit comes with everything used.

[@lincolnhobartmiller]

Cloyes Gear & Products, Inc. (Aftermarket) thank you very much for your help, great video

[@1Cobranut]

Question: If I remove the balance shaft, and plug the oil supply ports that feed it, would the timing kit # 9-0398SC be appropriate? I guess the main thing is the axial positioning of the crank sprockets when the balance shaft chain isn't used. Also, do you happen to have the required TTY bolt part numbers from Ford? Thanks.

[@Cloyes01]

Yes, the 9-0398SC set will work. The only difference is the crank sprocket and the additional balance shaft components in the 9-0398SB and 9-0398SC kits. The front jackshaft bolt is 2L2Z-6279-AA and the rear is W703167-S430.

[@1Cobranut]

@@Cloyes01 Thank you very much. That's great news.

[@marioreglin5995]

Hey Cloyes can I do this procedure when the front cassette chain in the engine got broke?

[@Cloyes01]

Yes, the procedure will be the same, you just may need to reposition the camshaft on that bank if it jumped time. The special tool may not initially install, you may need to rotate the camshaft until it does.

[@philipstarkes8065]

My right rear timing chain is running to close to the rear of the head and not in the middle of the guide. I just replaced all of the components with the Cloyes CT9-0397SC. The old one was tracking in the middle of the guide where it should be. My cam gear is bolted up good and flat with the left handed threaded bolt. Can you tell me if you’ve seen this happen before??

[@lawxx6]

One of your sprockets are backwards

[@tcply9450]

ford, like the rest took the extra time to make sure we dont fix our own, they want you to buy them but then they are secretly waiting to roll you when you need some work. in the past 35 years ive seen the simplest of jobs turn to major work , and not because of the technology but because of all the built in problems they add on purpose, i do a lot of repair and rebuild and nearly all have trouble built in.

[@9jwynn]

i got that one and ever one is telling me to chang the moter becouse it got shaveing in the oil is that true or can it be save and how it radlles when it runs but no back faring

[@franciscoadolfo5805]

Excellent explanation. I am about to order the kit. Explorer with 260,000. Are there any further inspections to the other components such as lash adjusters, roller followers. And if so, do you sell those parts. Regards

[@Cloyes01]

Thank you! No, we only supply timing components and related parts.

[@peanutbutterisfu]

Looks like a German/euro design. I’m a foreman at a euro repair shop and this looks like something you would see in a Audi/vw engine.

[@Cloyes01]

It was made in Cologne Germany. The reason for the complexity is that it is simply the older 4.0L pushrod block with SOHC heads retrofitted on.

[@ronaldbrown9638]

@@Cloyes01 it's still a poor design

[@duanerawlins1903]

made in cologne, Germany

[@steveharvey7712]

outstanding work. ez to follow instructions.

[@garyvanremortel5218]

How many odometer miles is typical for this job?

[@Njimmy89]

Hi, What happens if I've already changed the timing chains and tensors and there's still a slightly clacking noise from the chains after using tOEM ? (2007 Ford Explorer 4.0L) PLEASE HELP, AND THANK YOU.

[@illusiontv92]

My 01 ranger edge just started making the rattle noise and CEL came on. Is it possible I could get by with just replacing the timing chain tensioners? It seems to be starting and running about the same before it started rattling

[@Cloyes01]

Due to the amount of labor required to change the whole system, trying new secondary timing chain tensioners is worth a shot.

[@xxillusiontvxx8257]

@@Cloyes01 Thanks for the input! I paid a $1,700 for it last year. I did notice that the oil sending unit stopped working in it as well until it seemed to have warmed up. What are your thoughts of possibly running a little heavier oil to try and get that rattle to go away just enough to sell or trade it in. I know that sounds and is likely a horrible thing to do but due to the current state of the economy and being out of work I am running out of options and will be needing a reliable vehicle to get back to work.

[@calumrife]

@@xxillusiontvxx8257 You have to love your rig to invest what it'll take to fix your issues. Sometimes, if the vehicle's already in good shape, it's cheaper to keep'er. To iterate, the devil you know is better than the one you don't. Also, I wouldn't run heavier oil as it can take longer to reach the top of the engine and throughout until fully warmed up. Too much of an increase can cause major issues down the line if it's not using what oil is recommended to pass through all the oil ports with specific tolerances. Newer engines especially need what they are rated for. A little Lucas might be ok for you, especially in a worn out engine that's a little loose. I wouldn't ever in a German engine though, which this is, unfortunately. Lastly, you should try changing the tensioners themselves as they usually wear out at 100k miles, and is hopefully the only reason you're getting the infamous rattle. The guides could also be broken (hope not!). Hope you got it fixed or this helps you. Cheers.

[@freddysmith3186]

Yes Pull the engine out to change timing chains 4.0 ..... don't buy ford

[@AllanDee]

Are the torque to yield bolts included in the kit? Those shouldn't be reused, correct?

[@paulstandaert5709]

Honestly, with the relative unavailability that I found for these bolts, I think people are re-using them. If people were always just getting new ones, I think someone would have gotten on the bandwagon of selling bolt kits on Amazon or something. After torquing LOTS of bolts over the years, a person can get the feel for a bolt that gets to it's yield point. As long as it takes a bunch of torque and doesn't feel like it is about to snap off, it is probably going to work. If it were my own vehicle, I would have taken the chance and re-used them.

[@kirkwonner2660]

Having trouble getting the driver side cassette in. You skip over this but you do it with the cam installed. Am I missing a trick because according to procedure you’re supposed to remove the cam

[@Knarfgarage]

Hi i did everything according to the video but when a rotate the engine there is a clicking noise at the rear timing chain. I noticed that the chain goes loose on the opposite side of the tensoner. do you know what could be the problem?

[@Cloyes01]

You are likely seeing the camshaft being pushed forward and back by the valve springs as you rotate. Once the tensioner primes up with oil it will limit this movement and tighten the chain.

[@TCS86]

You forgot to check the gear under the balance shaft for proper timing alignment

[@jamespeters3907]

Is it the same tdc crank tool for a 2010 mustang? I have the tool but it contacts timing cover before crank.

[@Cloyes01]

Yes, the tool kits should work for any SOHC 4.0L. As long as it positions the crank in a way that positions the key at 12 o'clock you are good.

[@jamespeters3907]

Thank you. The crank tool didn't work. But I actually found timing marks on balancer and crankshaft sensor bracket. I was still able to use the cam tools to loose the cam sprocket bolts.

[@ibretus]

The Balance shaft was not aligned correctly, you need to align the dot with the bearing split on the lower shaft then align the 2 lines either side of the dot on the case.

[@dylankinch2735]

Yes sir you are correct. I couldnt tell if it was align correct or not it was hard to see underneath there.

[@ROBBEAUDOIN66]

Just bought a 09 ranger with the 4.0 ....I like it

[@themechanic2500]

my explorer was running strong no missing but when I broke it down both cassettes front and rear where bad and the main timing chain what's the chances the valves didn't bend? 50/50 ?

[@Cloyes01]

If the engine was running strong before teardown then the valves are going to be fine. Bent valves will cause a terminal misfire in every cylinder where they are bent.

[@eddyrodriguez4694]

Cloyes Gear & Products, Inc. (Aftermarket)

[@prospexican]

hi great video, hwats the labor time for this job to do it in vehicle?

[@Cloyes01]

It depends on the vehicle, but most charge 15 to 17 hours.

[@prospexican]

Cloyes Gear & Products, Inc. thanks a lot.

[@vr4787]

Woof, and I thought the 4.7 Magnum from Chrysler of the same era was a bit tricky. This is a paint in the rear, much less having to pull the block out to get the rear timing chain.

[@sureshlokesh3079]

Hii sar tq for video i need to small information.. Last one RH side y instead cam looking tool please answer me sar and tq.. Sar

[@joshdude2137]

you know... i did subscribe. good video, likeable tech. yall have it goin on cloyes. good job

[@oby-1607]

Holy. 4 chains with 4 tensioners. Talk about overcomplicating matters. Won't see me doing this. My neighbor wanted to give me his 4.0 after he blew up his transmission. I don't think so.

[@kirkwest6654]

Leave it ford to fk it up

[@FORDBOYSJ]

Good, where I look and every few kilometers I must make the change of chains thanks.

[@cedricjefferson4995]

I have a 98 ford sport it was loaned to a friend to use and I believe he put to much oil it is now making a tick tick sound not heavy but more audible from underside of the passenger side wheel well. when I rev the engine higher it increase in volume of noise but not much. what can the issue be is this a timing chain issue. Still havent drained the excess oil yet.I would appreciate your input.

[@jackbeach3965]

Could be idler pulley/puller tensioner

[@dennisluttrell2228]

Great video on a 2004 4.0 for excellent excellent excellent thank you very much

[@thebaddestogre-3698]

So, timing chain issues on this engine secretly means "time for a 5.0 swap".

[@Z-Ack]

Yea and when you blow thatn up your 4.0 sohcpos is there to change the timing..

[@northdakotaham1752]

@@Z-Ack get rid of the vehicle and go buy a 5.0 vehicle. If you can find one that is.

[@brandonmeckle1632]

What does it mean if the camshaft holding tool does not line up.... and it is top dead center

[@Cloyes01]

That would mean the engine is out of time or you are on TDC of the incorrect stroke. Try to rotate the crankshaft 1 revolution and try again. If the tool still won't install that means you are out of time.

[@timteevin4517]

Cost of repairs exceeds value of the vehicle.

[@anthonyskorner4511]

Are there 3 chains on the earlier 4.0s?

[@iamdjnam]

4x4 models always have 4. 2wd have 3.

[@Cloyes01]

The older 4.0L pushrod engines only had one chain. Once they went SOHC in the late 90's they all have this 3 or 4 chain system.

[@therobinmasterstheory1636]

@@Cloyes01 what year did they put this engine in the mustangs? Is it in a 1999 mustang?

[@Cloyes01]

@@therobinmasterstheory1636 They did not start using this engine in the Mustang until 2005. The 1999 Mustang V6's were 3.8L engines.

[@therobinmasterstheory1636]

@@Cloyes01 thanks :)

[@juanmartinez-rh1hb]

Does it have to be done in that order? I put the chains on first and then tighten the cams. Everything was at TDC.

[@Cloyes01]

As long as everything was in time when tightened then you are OK.

[@Biglug8888]

Do your kits include the one time use bolts?

[@Cloyes01]

Not for this application.

[@Biglug8888]

@@Cloyes01 ok thanks 👍