Ford 4.6 aluminum Teksid engine block information and preparation

In this video I discuss a little about the Ford 4.6 Aluminum Teksid engine block. I go over how I like to prep the engine block before and after it goes to the machine shop. After editing I realized I missed a lot so here are some added notes.
About the block: they were made in Italy, can be used in 2000+ hp applications, about 75 lbs vice 150 lbs cast iron block, found in 90’s Mark VIII and 96-01 Mustang Cobras, and can be used with 2, 3, or 4 valve OHC heads (Coyote 5.0 heads will not fit).
Before it goes to the machine shop for bore/deck/hone here is what I prefer to do:
-One of the first things to look at is to make sure it hasn’t spun a main bearing. You can do this by making sure there is cross hatching on the mains.
-Clean/scrape the majority of the dirt and grime (it doesn’t need to be perfect, your machine shop should use a hot tank after machining).
-Modify the block if needed (grind off knock sensor bungs and/or drill coolant passage).
-Remove freeze plugs and oil gallery plugs.
-Remove water pump bypass from valley of the engine block.
-Make sure you bag the jack screws on the side of the block.
-Before you remove the main caps, make sure the factory markings are visible and keep them in order. You can either send the block with all the main caps or with just the front a rear. Either way, make sure they are clearly marked so they don’t get mixed up.
-Make sure the machine shop has torque plates. These engines should be final honed with them!
When it comes back from the machine shop here is what I like to do:
-Blow off the engine paying special attention to the oil passages and bolt holes.
-Chase head bolt/stud threads and then blow them out again.
-Clean and coat the cylinders with ATF. I recommend Kimtech, low lint, aviation cleaning wipes when working with engines.
If you have questions or comments please let me know.

[@MikesGarageRoute66]

Another great mod motor video. Keep them coming!

[@grathodson6477]

Great work! Look forward to seeing more content

[@DonziGT230]

That casting looks really good compared to some other stuff I've seen.

[@JohnSmithRacing]

I like to really clean the engines that I build. A good hot tank or sonic machine will clean the block up nice. I have even used Gunk brand degreaser and that works good as well. The hardest area seems to be the valley because most of these engines have baked on mouse turds haha

[@Bill-cb4bh]

I'm glad I had the Lincoln and cobra. still have the cobra

[@nickstewart3725]

Awesome video!...great info when I decide to do my high hp build!

[@JohnSmithRacing]

Thank you, let me know if you have any questions.

[@traxxasrcfun]

Awesome video man, if you could do more how-to's on teksids or just 4.6s in general I'd really appreciate it

[@JohnSmithRacing]

Thank you and there are plenty more Teksid and 4.6 videos planned.

[@8bit_bryan]

@@JohnSmithRacing I have a 98 Mark 8 I hope to add more performance with. I second this.

[@JohnSmithRacing]

@@8bit_bryan Thank you, I highly recommend adding aftermarket cams. They make great power and have a much better sound than stock.

[@th600mike3]

When I was a kid my dad bought a lincoln mk VIII and he just always was so thrilled with it, he was a life long full time engineer (professor and consultant for everyone from the power industry, to the naval weapons center to random private companies). He loved that car something else. And it rubbed off on me. Now years later, I end up working with parts from that 4r70 and looking at the block and everything I'm still impressed. Seriously under-rated what they did. I think about building a teksid with a stock coyote crank all the time. Are there any cheap high flowing head options for these things?

[@JohnSmithRacing]

Thanks for watching the video! These are great engines and a lot of people use them to make big hp. I have seen over 2k hp made using a Teksid. You can use a cast 4.6 crank and still make a lot of power. I want to say up to 800 is doable. The cast crank is lighter and so it will make a bit more power and spin up faster. As far as heads, as of 2023 I do not know of any one making 4V ones but Trickflow makes 2V heads that will bolt on to a Teksid. There are a lot of shops that will CNC the 4V heads but most want to start with the later casting of the heads (DB or DC).

[@pantherplatform]

I have two of these, one in each Marauder.

[@Williecash88]

Great content…Very informative!!! I’m wanting to build an 03/04 Terminator engine using the "WAP" Block instead of the Cast Iron, I’ve heard that the "WAP" blocks will support around 1,300/RWHP!!! Is this true? And if so will it continuously support that safely?

[@jeffreystelling3395]

Hey I've bought a couple of your cobra upper intake cobra emblems

[@krzysztof7048]

Hello, is there an oil filling screw in the engine block after engine overhaul?

[@madmod]

I have an unopened 120k mile Mark Viii engine but opted to go for an Aviator 4.6 with a Wap block and C heads for my Mustang.

[@midnight347]

The wap is fine it can do 1000 with forged internals how many are gonna go past that with street cars? Very few.

[@madmod]

@@midnight347 Honestly. People today are racing dyno numbers. I swear haha

[@phillipgargus7813]

What are the benefits and downfalls of the different heads?

[@i94south34]

is there any difference in cylinder head bolt torque specs between a iron block or a aluminum block

[@randyswenson6222]

Where is a good place to buy these blocks?

[@2vgod460]

Please help me if you can please, I’m trying to get my block in a stand to live the engine been a while and I don’t want rust neither

[@pmd7771969]

You need to use tork plates on any motor you bore. Cast iron too. Bloodviking, engine builder

[@nandansho]

Where's your shop? I'd like to get my 4.6 4v rebuilt or purchase an already rebuilt unit. Do you have an Ebay store?

[@JohnSmithRacing]

We just moved to Vista CA and just search John Smith Racing for our ebay store

[@the__black__box]

My 03 Cobra block is bored 0.030, and its time for a rebuild. Machine shop said it cannot be bored anymore. My question is, did these iron blocks come with sleeves from the factory? Will a Romeo 2v block 99-04 interchange with the Terminator iron block (since its also Romeo)?

[@JohnSmithRacing]

Sorry, I just saw this comment. I do not believe the iron blocks are sleeved but I could be wrong, I don't do lot with the iron blocks because they are heavy and I don't think they are any stronger than the aluminum blocks. If I were you I would use a Teksid, WAP, or NEMAK aluminum block and remove about 75 lbs from the nose of the car. But to answer you question, yes a 2V iron block will bolt up to the 03-04 C heads.

[@topgama6622]

Hi can you make a video or explain what are torque plates? Thats part of the machine shop? Also is this teksid block better than whats oem on the 01 mustang svt cobra?

[@JohnSmithRacing]

Yes, I will make a video on torque plates soon. I am pretty sure that most of the 01 Cobras, if not all, had a Teksid engine block in them. The ones that I have dealt with had a little different crank side bolts.

[@Slowcars4me]

Are there any positive displacement blowers that work with the teksid block knock sensors? I want to add knock sensors to a Termi cobra with MS3Pro standalone

[@JohnSmithRacing]

I do not know of any that will work with a Teksid and 2V heads. However, Kenne Bell has a kit for the early Cobra, so it should work with a Teksid and 4V heads.

[@kmoss9521]

Can you use the block from a Mark 8 if it was a front wheel drive 4.6L? I've notice all the 4v 4.6L MARK 8 in my area are front wheel drive. I haven't gone to look at them 2 are in the magic year of the Teksid.

[@midnight347]

I thought those were rwd? Same platform as the tbird ain't it?

[@todds5956]

I have a 1996 reman from ford that is a 4v aluminum block. It has a w stamped in the side. Is that the desirable one? Thanks

[@JohnSmithRacing]

I would say that block is a WAP (Windsor Aluminum Plant) and is not the top desirable of the 4.6 blocks. It's still a good block but I really like the Teksid and the Nemak aluminum blocks.

[@ranware2779]

Question i have a 98 teksid out of a mark viii what would i need for a simple terminator swap over? heads db dc mach 1 terminator or aviator? Also if i do go with lets say aviator is there anything in the way on the teksid or these heads that will get in the way of a whipple or big kennebell?

[@JohnSmithRacing]

The Teksid will work with all the modular heads. The problem with the block is the knock sensor bungs will interfere with several superchargers. The bungs will need to grinded off and I also grind off a small bump in the center of the valley as shown in this video I believe. Hope that helps, if not let me know.

[@ranware2779]

@@JohnSmithRacing thank you my kind sir. Much appreciated

[@paulstein7369]

Have 2, should break them down see whats what.

[@jfly4149]

Do these blocks only work with overhead cam heads? Not compatible for my 95 5.0 cobra

[@JohnSmithRacing]

Correct, the overhead cam 4.6/5.4 engine blocks are not compatible with the 5.0/5.8 pushrod engines.

[@tylergolden8663]

Pointed to wrong hole for 2v cooling mod you were pointing to the oil feed to the head the coolant hole to drill is the one directly above it

[@JohnSmithRacing]

Thank you for pointing that out. Sometimes mistakes are made making these videos. The easiest way to figure it out is to put a gasket on.

[@tylergolden8663]

No problem man just figured id say something

[@2vgod460]

So I have a Teksid fully built it’s a mmr 4.75 1000 se stroker it’s been sitting for about 4 years now I did coat the pistons and walls with atf, now should I have this block taken apart sent through the cleaning machine, again and assembled again? I wanna also change the rods and pistons on this block I’ll leave the coyote boss 302’crank shaft since i know it’s been pushed to 1400hp+ np for years builders say that I talked to. So hook me uo with some advice would be great I know it need a cleaning no matter what, dust ext been in just sitting in a garage.and I know the assembly lube and all that has dust collected on it also been around for a while just To be sure no rust issues ext even tho alluminum won’t rust the pistons sleeves might is i misses any spots

[@JohnSmithRacing]

It will most likely be fine. If you want to take a look down the spark plug hole, there are inexpensive borescopes online. There are some really nice ones that use you phone camera too.

[@2vgod460]

Can you help me out bro? I have this block from mmr, it was built for a 2v the clowns never drilled the 2v hole for water passage heads, but my main concern is all these comments related to the timing system and clearance issues? I am using cobra engineering pin kit and going with a 8mm upgraded pivot pins screw in, I am using Shelby mike timing stuff with factory chains, my engine is a 4.75 stroker 1000se, but I need you help

[@JohnSmithRacing]

I have built engines with that hole drilled and without it being drilled without coolinf issues. If you want to drill it use a gasket and center a hole in there about an 1/4 inch. What clearence are you concerned with?

[@2vgod460]

@@JohnSmithRacing timing guides? A lot of post saying they hit oil pump area, not sure if this is true or not

[@JohnSmithRacing]

@@2vgod460 I have used the Cobra Engineering kit with and have not had clearence issues. Its a great kit in my opinion. You can email me pictures if you want a second look.

[@brandona4618]

I never drilled the passage on my blocks either. My current. 4.6 2v has 734k miles on it now and it has never been hot. Hauling trailers with scissor lifts all across the country. I didnt drill the hole on the new 5.4 block sitting in my stand ATM either. Keep the heat out of the oil with that rear head cross flow dealy( copy MMRs with ACE hardware or home depot for like 40 bucks) and keep up with maintenance. A water pump is cheaper to change before going bad than it is building one these things. 2v heads are getting rare and $$$$$ ans intakes are non existant. Unless you widen an Eddie. Or find a hps hardballr....somewhere lol.

[@devorickjohnson7714]

What is the casting number for the Teksid block?

[@JohnSmithRacing]

I believe they had different casting numbers for ones that went in a Cobra vs the ones that were in the Mark VIII. The easy way to tell is the waffling in the valley of the block. Teksid are square vice WAP block diamonds.

[@michaeltemple8333]

How much on average does it cost to clean up the block and bore 10 over as well as check the crank?

[@JohnSmithRacing]

Bore, deck, and hone costs about $500 around here.

[@killuzokarachay7032]

What year is this block?

[@bowlinglefty]

These blocks are actually forgerd?

[@MunchinMaQuchy]

question. i have a 94 mark block. im trying to build a franken termi motor. plan using 05 aviator heads for the better plug threads and i have a 03 sc. im gonna be putting it in a 2010 grand marquis. think itll work for a cheap muscle car?

[@JohnSmithRacing]

Yes, that is a great combination. I would take a look at what the Marauder guys are doing to get the supercharger setup working. There is a guy that sells plates to move and flip the alternator around. There is also a lot of wire extensions and the problem of how to route the cooling system. It can be done tho

[@MunchinMaQuchy]

@@JohnSmithRacing ya im gonna be deleting the ac and putting the alt where the pump used to go, they sell plates for that. im going to be making the intercooler its own system with a pump so hopefully that simplifies the coolant. my only real concern is wiring. i know im gonna have to do alot of extending being the crown vic and mustang harnesses are flipped and the intake goes the opposite direction. my only concern is the sensors being its a 94 block and a 2010 harness, u ever try to do anything like that, can i swap the sensors for new ones or will the old ones work? also because its a E throttle and the corba used a cable i had an idea around that by using a 05 gt throttle which is oval and E. idk if that will work, but id really like to keep the E throttle. love to hear your thoughts thnx

[@JohnSmithRacing]

@@MunchinMaQuchy The coolant issue is with the crossover tube, it doesn't clear the blower. I did a swap on a Maruader and used On3 crossover tube delete for the top of the cooling system and then just cut some 1.5 inch hose for the bottom. I had a 03 Cobra harness and it was easier to extend the Maruader harness and battery because that needs to be moved as well. The sensors should be fine with either the new or old. I didn't have to worry about the throttle body but it sounds like the Mustang one you have in mind will work. You will need a custom tune as well to get the engine to run correctly.

[@MunchinMaQuchy]

@@JohnSmithRacing very cool thnk u. one last question what bottom ends do u use in your builds?

[@JohnSmithRacing]

@@MunchinMaQuchy The rods and the pistons are the weak point. At a minimum I replace them with Manley. The factory cast crank is actually pretty good and I have heard of it being used in 1000 hp applications and 7k+ RPM. For the forged crank, I use either a factory Kellogg or Manley forged.

[@arturozarate1752]

You mentioned that 3v heads fit these blocks. How do the Teksid and 3v aluminum blocks differ? Can I run 4v C heads on a 3v block? Thanks in advance.

[@JohnSmithRacing]

The 3V engines either came with a WAP or a Nemak block, I can't remember off the top of my head. As far as I know there isn't much difference other than appearance in the casting and the blocks should be interchangeable with all the modular heads, including 3V. Depending on what combination you run, everything should fit. I just did a Teksid with regular C-heads for a 03-04 Cobra and the older head casting had to be grinded in a couple places to get the lower intake to fit, as well as the knock sensor bungs. Some people say the Nemak is stronger than the Teksid and that the WAP is the weakest out of the three. I have built engines with all three and all have worked well.

[@arturozarate1752]

@@JohnSmithRacing so what REALLY is the benefit of running a Teksid block???? ALL the Modular engine castings, iron or aluminum, are strong. When compared to the Windsor SBF OEM castings having their limitations, ANY Modular block has double the capability. If a client came to me and said, "Mr. Art, I'm running Ford Modular stuff at the racetrack, and I need to hold big power.” "Big Power? What's your big Power?" I'd ask him. "1000hp is my Big Power." Smh....after giggling to myself a little, I'd have to ask about his finances cause he'd have to get to fifteen or sixteen hundred horse before it would be an issue and at that point he'd be looking at a Koenigsegg block! No idea what the cost to procure one would be. It's just hasn't come through my door yet. As a SBF guy I overlooked the Modular platform for personal use for 20 years. Today though......eh, it's getting attractive. Thanks for replying.

[@JohnSmithRacing]

@@arturozarate1752 No problem. It seems most people like to use the Teksid because that is what some of the big engine builders where using back in the day and that is all they have heard of. I have not built a 1000 plus hp engine on either of the three but I really like them because they are lighter. When I was at MMR we did some 1000 plus stuff but it was on a 5.4 iron block. I would like to build an aluminum 5.4 or 5.8 to put in an old SN95. Maybe with some twin turbos!

[@arturozarate1752]

@@JohnSmithRacing idk the deck heights to compare fitment, but the SN95 doesn't have the high shock tower and low engine mounts that the S197 has. I kinda remember a kid back in San Antonio bring one in to a shop I was doing electrical work for on the side, back in 2002ish. It was a 2 valve and it looked ridiculous. I wonder why I haven't seen more 5.4DOHC in SN95's?

[@peterbouras7595]

Thanks for the vid! I have a std teksid with 1-1.5 thousands wear in the bore. Do you think a hone only would work to keep it std? I plan to run 10 psi Kenne Bell on it eventually, with the 2V heads, street driver.. Do you recommend any machine shops in the Vista or LA area that are competent with the teksid blocks. Cheers, Pete

[@JohnSmithRacing]

Hi Pete, I would really have to see the cylinders to make good judgment call on them. As long as there isn't any large scuffs or cracks, I wouldn't worry too much about a thousandth. Ball hone if for about 10-15 seconds. But if you do want to use a machine shop, I use Machine Tech in Oceanside, CA.

[@udonenomee2117]

Also I believe the Teksid came in the ‘99 and early ‘01 Cobras.

[@JohnSmithRacing]

Yes, every 2001 Cobra that I have seen has the Teksid block.

[@joeross2914]

Teksid blocks came in early as 1993-98 on Lincoln Mark VIII's & 96-98 Cobras (shared the same block ,F6LE)... Ford started casting their own aluminum-blocks at the Windsor plant around 2001/2002 which came in the Mach 1 , Lincoln Aviator, 05-10, Mustang GT 3valve ...

[@Hillary4Prison]

Nice video, how's it coming along??

[@JohnSmithRacing]

Thank you, this engine was completed.

[@drakehunter5965]

John Smith Racing would a turbo application be better for this engine or supercharger

[@drakehunter5965]

I’m going to look at a mark viii tomorrow

[@rayman1230]

@@JohnSmithRacing Do you build engines for regular customers? I'd like to get a build started. Even just the short block. Proper prep, balance and blue printed engines are what make the improbable outcomes possible. And run reliable. That's where machine work and having the right tools come into play. That's what I lack Id love to bring my aircraft knowledge into one of these Teksid blocks for my 98 GT. NMRA factory stock guys are making, essentially factory parts, put down average 370 rwhp. No reason a really high compression, E85 feed, and trickflow headed combo can't put down close to 500rwhp NA. Of course that's with 7600-8000 rpm in mind...street driven. I want to see a nasty N/A 2v in my car to put the engine math on the streets. Making most people stare in awe as it keeps up with stock new coyotes without boost or nitrous.

[@JohnSmithRacing]

@@rayman1230 Yes, and I have been wanting to build a sleeved 5.3 stroker Teksid with high compression, TF heads, and Comp Cams. I think with E85 it could put down over 450 whp.

[@georgefredrick1058]

Wonder how my ported 2v pi heads would put out for hp .

[@madmod]

The Teksid block wont produce any extra power over an iron block, rather it will be able to handle more abuse and support more power. Well ported PI heads are good for around 320whp NA with the proper cam. Beyond that, youd give up a lot of drivability.

[@2vgod460]

Hi John smith, I was wondering if you know of any lift plates for this block, I’m only wanting to lift the short block its a 2v build and I wanna get the engine in a engine stand, and I seen motionrace works one and I have been. Told that that needs heads in block

[@JohnSmithRacing]

I don't know of plates that can lift a short block out. With the heads off the shortblock should be about 250 pounds or so. I would just put a couple ratchet straps around it and lift it with the hoist. Or run a couple head bolts down try to attach to them.

[@jonroberts6518]

To run @ 1000whp. What boost and octane levels are you're looking at? With a teksid base block.

[@JohnSmithRacing]

Boost will depend on heads and CR but most likely E85 or Race fuel to get those numbers

[@jonroberts6518]

@@JohnSmithRacing kind of figured it had it been at least E85, but I'm running into that problem E85 is not relatively available in my area, was thinking something maybe with methanol injection in between 100 to 110 octane. But I can settle for the 700 horse range

[@jonroberts6518]

@@JohnSmithRacing I stand corrected on the E85 first I thought I would have to drive 100 miles out, just to go get some I found a closer station that offers E85 so check on that I don't think 18 lb of boost will do it. I was looking at a long block setup 4.6 two versions 1 safely to handle 18 lb of boost and the other 25 lb of boost but I'm already looking 10K just for the long block. For 25 psi boost . And the one setup for 18 is half the cost

[@rollydoucet8909]

Where could I get jacks crews? A customer brought us a block he bought online, and it's missing its jack screws. We have the new ARP bolts that go through them, but we're looking for jack screws.

[@JohnSmithRacing]

As far as I know they don't make the jack screws anymore and no one makes a replacement. You will have to get them used or find some in a junk yard.

[@rollydoucet8909]

@@JohnSmithRacing Thanks. I had the customer trace the path back to where the block originally came from and the jack screws have been located and we're expecting them shortly.

[@noahhagemeier6918]

5.0 heads work this motor?

[@LegalLowGround]

Bro did you even watch the video? Jesus 🤦

[@HyPex808-2]

Have you tried putting one of these into a late model ford ranger? 1988-92? Or know of anyone that has?

[@JohnSmithRacing]

I am pretty sure I saw them put a Ford Lightning engine in a Ranger in Muscle Mustangs and Fast Ford magazine years ago. The process would be similar.

[@lazy_4valve213]

When using a 98 cobra teksid block, those use one thrust bearing correct?

[@JohnSmithRacing]

Yes, one thrust bearing insert with the grooves facing the crank on the top half. The bottom half has thrust washers built into the cap side bearing. The grooves are to provide oil to the friction surface of the crank.

[@lazy_4valve213]

John Smith Racing thank you! And i assume it goes on the outside of the the block not the inside bc, i tried inside and it just falls. I put it on outside whefe flywheel goes and it fits perfect

[@JohnSmithRacing]

@@lazy_4valve213 Yes it goes on the outside. Think of it taking the force of the clutch being pressed in. That area of a crank is common to wear out from clutches not adjusted properly or people riding the clutch pedal.

[@cristianrivera6562]

What's the timing dowel upgrades you have to do to a 2v?

[@JohnSmithRacing]

The cast iron block dowels are pressed in. Cobra Engineering makes a nice kit to drill them out and tap them for larger ones.

[@cristianrivera6562]

@@JohnSmithRacing thanks John I'm getting my teksid bored and honed currently, and was just trying to get everything needed before it gets out. I appreciate the response!

[@JohnSmithRacing]

@@cristianrivera6562 No problem. Some will argue that you need to drill the driver side for a cooling passage but I have put them together with and without doing it with no noticable difference. Also one of the holes on the timing chain cober will not line up so make sure and put rtv in and around that bolt hole

[@dougmarthaler3066]

Do you sell crate engines?

[@JohnSmithRacing]

Yes, we can build and crate ship and engine. Please email us at [e-mail] for more information.

[@SpaceWithinTime]

These blocks can hold 2000hp on a proper tune , get the tune wrong and you can make a good day really bad ,

[@Los_Chanchulleros]

Don't know much but... there is a reason why Marvel's hero is not called Aluminum Man.

[@benjamins9121]

John Mihovetz owns the world record and did it with a teskid block. Most of the fastest 4.6 mod motors in that group are teskids. They are anything but weak. Also, the LS seems to do fine with aluminum blocks.

[@Los_Chanchulleros]

@@benjamins9121 I was talking about production engines, not racing engines. I was talking about Buick (AKA Rover) factory engines, not about Ford aftermarket... I don't give a damn about 1/4 mile, because I want 250,000 miles.

[@benjamins9121]

@@Los_Chanchulleros I never mentioned aftermarket blocks, teskids came in Lincoln Mk8s and 96-98 Cobras although a lot of them wound up in 99 and 01 Cobras as well. I simply mentioned racing engines that used the teskid block to emphasize the power they hold. As far as durability goes they have that too, mostly due to the quality but also the fact that mod blocks are very large for their displacement and heat up more slowly than smaller aluminum blocks like LS's, and also they came with aluminum heads so everything heated up and cooled down at the same rate. I for example put 140k hard miles on my 97 Cobra before I decided to turbo it, the engine was rebuilt with the same teskid block and now supports a 76mm turbo setup. If you care to know but don't believe me do some research on the teskid block and you'll be pleasantly surprised with the strength and durability. Also, I was strictly referring to this particular block, the teskid aluminum block that came with the cars from factory, I wasn't speaking for anybody elses blocks. Of course a poorly made aluminum block will suck, but the teskids are very well built and you get the strength and durability because of that. The company teskid is from Italy and produced block for Ferrari and Formula 1 actually, I think that says something to the quality. Neither of those things really back up the durability, but like I said if you think they can't handle 250k with proper maintenance you're mistaken partner

[@Los_Chanchulleros]

@@benjamins9121 a lot of writing... that I will *NOT* read, but thanks.

[@JosephPPreston]

Imagine removing a set of 32V heads from a TEKSID block of all things and MODIFYING the HOLY GRAIL of Ford Performance in the 90s with your "All Knowing Wisdom" of these blocks. YOU LITERALLY JUST MODIFIED A TEKSID BLOCK TO FIT A SET OF HEADS THAT ARE USED AS TABLE LEVELERS IN LOCAL BARS......... Tf is wrong with you....... Around 10k blocks produced by Teksid and you out here just cuttin em up.......... Imagine Ford spending millions of dollars on an engine they paid Ferrari to design and leaving out features for other heads.... OH WAIT THEY DID!!!!! AND they put a head that no 2v or 3v from Ford's 4.6L lineup will ever compete with. Tf man........ TF............ #SaveTheTeksids

[@JohnSmithRacing]

Not sure if this is a joke or not but the engines that we use come from a junk yard where the cars are scheduled to be crushed after a few weeks. So technically we are #savetheteksids haha

[@JosephPPreston]

@@JohnSmithRacing not a joke........ save em. quit filing shit off. use 4v heads or use another engine

[@gregorydavis4831]

One of the most overrated blocks not worth the premium

[@Williecash88]

Great content…Very informative!!! I’m wanting to build an 03/04 Terminator engine using the "WAP" Block instead of the Cast Iron, I’ve heard that the "WAP" blocks will support around 1,300/RWHP!!! Is this true? If so will it continuously support that safely?