FORD AIR INTAKE CONTROL MODULE ACTUATOR ROD CLIPS XF2E-9J559-AC

97 CENT FIX For these linkage rod clips that fall off and cause major problems.Usually less that $1.00 in parts from your local hardware store.Showing repair on FORD 2000 WINDSTAR with 3.8 L ENGINE

[@javieracosta5528]

The moment I saw the cigarette and heard the accent, I knew this was going to be the video I needed.

[@bobr2959]

WE JUST SAW THIS VIDEO, THEN WENT OUT AND LOOKED UNDER THE HOOD AND THAT ROD WAS JUST laying there loose. Yep. Yesterday they, auto zone and o'reillys read the codes and both of them said the air intake module actuator was broke. They wanted $300 for that part. My pocket was laughing at me and I went home with my stuttering , missing out, limping 1999 ford windstar that I just bought for $500 a few weeks ago. Well, now I can fix that for a few dollars ,just like this guy did. I guess I'm a you tube mechanic now. These videos sure help save us money and teach us as we go. Now it's about 20 degrees outside. If it would just warm up to ,say 35, I could handle that. I have a bad plug or wire on the back side according to the code reader. So, theres another new adventure. After the plugs being in there for 105,000 miles will they come out without breaking? I hope so. Thanks for the video. It helped me. Bob R. in Michigan.

[@vegalinear]

Great tip about the washers and C clip. Found my IMRC linkage disconnected when replacing the waterpump, had no codes at all though, just back bank off). Was thinking of drilling small hole in link and using stainless steel wire looped through hole and twisted (sort of like a tiny cotter pin). I like your idea better. Could also use a piece of heat shrink tubing instead of gas line as it gets thicker as it shrinks. At first I thought I could go to the dealer and they'd just throw a few across the counter... $28 for 4, that's nuts. Thanks for saving me the wasted trip to the dealer. PS don't have O'reilly's up here in Canukistan (Canada). Love my US neighbors!

[@joevignolor4u949]

I had to replace the 4 plastic IMRC bushings on my 2003 Windstar but with the manifold still on the engine. I also worried about dropping the 2 outside bushings and losing them. To safely get them in place I ran a piece of string through the hole in the arm first and then tied it off. Then I put the bushings onto the string and slid them down to the holes and pushed them in. The string keeps you from dropping the bushings and it guides them directly to where they belong.

[@joedavideason]

Fairly easy fix.Takes some patients if fixing this under the hood but beats paying several hundred at the dealership.Most local mechanic shops won't touch it.

[@krylissnorwind7528]

Thanks for your video sir!! For those of us that aren't able to take everything off and just need the actual clips can pick them up at OReily's. It's a Dorman brand part number 47099, cost about 5.99 for a pack of 5.

[@joedavideason]

+John Schlicker Thanks for watching John! Run a long (couple of feet)piece of string or fishing line through the hole and stick the rod in.Then run the clip down the string,clip it on and pull the string out.Keeps u from dropping it a million times like i did! Thanks again everyone!

[@EnriqueGonzalez-rm2wh]

Sir thank you for video..You have a southern voice tone...But I understand you I am Yankee..With all repect.

[@chetmyers7041]

It is good to respect our elders and also those who come from different cultures. Real nice of JoeDavid to share his fix ideas. I wonder how long that fuel hose will last. Glad that Oreilly's has five grommets for $5. Hope they use better plastic than Ford original.

[@eriqueduboise1403]

Removed my intake manifold today for the very same issue. Check engine light on 2003 Mustang 3.8L V6. Bought new plastic actuator clips from Autozone for 5$. They failed within 2 days. The brass washers and metal rod clips are a good reengineer. I'll give it a try. Thanks for the advice!

[@JM-by3qw]

Thanks great video. It did help a lot!!!

[@josephbohme7917]

If you do this while on engine- Cover all open ports w tape so this damn tiny part does not go inside the block- where it will ruin everything. If it can fly it will go directly where it hurts the most- Murphy's Law.

[@joedavideason]

That would be more likely than the control module going bad or being unplugged Ray.I don't know what the life span of the module is but I'd guess much longer than the rod clips.Both sides coming off is common.Cheap plastic just can't stand the heat.Thanks!

[@gordongiroux1020]

i tried to order these from the ford dealer.......deer in the headlights man lol

[@jajoselyn]

Im trying this part..Vacuum retainer/bushings DORMAN 47099 fits perfectly to the control module..and its 5 plus at O'Reilly Auto Parts..i have an idea and will see if it works..for the linkages ..coz i cant find the part complete...im not crazy to go to the dealer..

[@TzzX78]

I got them a autozone for less then a 5 dolls

[@willf5768]

So did I Cheaper and easyer than new intake gasket set letting down the coolant and tearing apart the top of your engine off. He has a good idea but I wouldn't tear the intake off for this operation.

[@aronjohn8890]

cool video thanks

[@john4901]

Orielys auto parts near me had 5 pieces for $5. that was easy. although if I had something laying around I would have rigged it to work less $5, As $28 is about a dumb as Ford gets for a .25 cent piece. It may just be good to get the Metal linkage clips (as opposed to plastic ones for door lock) like some Cars have as they snap on the linkage and have a looped piece to fit over a bracket. this could fit by bending a little.

[@Royce1982]

Where can I get the small rods ?

[@brgodsey]

awsome!

[@michaelcatalano1447]

Did this problem cause a loud knock for anyone that makes the whole vehicle shake . Half of this part has been disconnected from the front of the intake on my 99 Windstar for awhile but it ran fine well this past weekend on sat went to the store 30 miles ran as normal went to start the car on sunday and I got this horrendous knock at first I thought just a real rough start because it was cooler than it had been in awhile also rainy and the van never liked this anyway but it didn't go away after warming had some accel at first then it was come and go I drove it for at most a mile returned to my driveway it acted like it wanted to stall but didn't after further investigation I noticed the back half of this part was now disconnected . could this be my issue? for the most part the van always ran great and this is sudden . any help is appreciated

[@joedavideason]

+michael catalano Don't know if one side unhooked would make it do that but both sides would for sure.The one that was still hooked up was probably working overtime adjusting ur fuel mix.With both sides disconnected it's running way too rich or way too lean now.I do mostly small engines so I'm dealing with carburetors on single or twin cylinders.Fuel mix is off a little and they knock ,backfire and raise hell.Alot and they wont run at all.They use an exhaust gas analyzer in most shops.I'd hook both sides up,warm the engine,get some rpms up and shoot some intake valve cleaner thru the intake.If it's still doing it check ur plug wires and make sure a vacuum line isn't unhooked.Run some fuel injector cleaner in the gas too. When I get stuck on a 6 or v8 I go to Bell Performance website.They're pretty sharp on newer engines that are running out of whack.

[@michaelcatalano1447]

Yeah the front side has been disconnected for awhile I didn't really understand the part but after this occurred I noticed the back side was disconnected btw this seem to occur between the time I shut the van off and I restarted it the next day. It ran ok I knew the front side was causing issues like occasional bogging and poor accel . if I used shell gas I didn't have problem. but now the car will drive but is miserable .

[@michaelcatalano1447]

thank you for commenting any outside opinion helps this is my daily and only commuter and I live 30 miles from my job

[@rayturner5317]

If these rods are loose or fell off, will they make the codes show bank 1 & bank 2 lean Codes Po174 and Po174?

[@RL82]

Vacuum leak. Most likely the isolator bolts. There's a gasket kit for about $100 and a good video showing the step by step on KZbin.

[@megatran2010]

Joe, so in order to see if the clip(s) is/are broken or not, the upper intake plenum will need to be removed, correct?

[@joedavideason]

Yes.You may be able to see if the front bank actuator rod is connected but no way to see rear bank rod with the plenum in the way.Both sides had come loose on this engine.Codes were going crazy,wouldn't idle and it ran like crap.

[@joevignolor4u949]

Hi Joe. I notice both of mine were off during an alternator replacement. On my Windstar I was able to move stuff aside and replace all the bushings without taking the plenum off. See the new comment I just added above describing how to install the bushings using a piece of string.

[@myronsmith2114]

Use a small mirror that's what I did .I found that the passenger side came loose

[@JohnMarraynthm]

If the bushings are good and the IMRC is actuating at 3400 rpm's and there is no build up of carbon inside the intake manifold that's keeping the butterfly's from moving smoothly....CHECK the cable alignment coming out of the IMRC box, the cable routing should be above that pesky maldesigned bracket that can allow the cable to go under it while you have it out and are trying to fix CEL P1518. 

[@joedavideason]

Absolutely correct John. Actually O'Reilly's must have heard me complaining of the dealership price of the rod clips as they carry a 4 pack for $5.99 I'm told.A much easier fix than my method.Run a string through the rod hole then run the clip down the string to keep from dropping it down into the abyss as i did several times!Thanks man!

[@JohnMarraynthm]

Originally, I had the stuck open code...used Berryman's chem b12 to flush carbon out the two top vacuum holes in the intake. Putting it back together I misrouted the cable and now I got stuck open code. I thought, strange. I read about the clips and I took things apart to see my clips. They were perfect (not melted or broken), then the action of the flaps was smooth so there was no carbon anymore. Put it back together and still got the code when I realized the cable had slipped below that bracket where the electrical wires ride. As soon as I rerouted the cable correctly wham...has been running like a top ever since. Thanks for the tips.

[@susanturney9892]

JoeDavid Eason, will this work on a 2002 Mustang 3.8? It won't pass inspection.

[@joedavideason]

Hi Susan and yes. The Runner control is on the back of the engine on that Mustang.Here is a Video that will help.You wouldn't believe how common this problem is.Thanks for watching and good luck! Error code p1518 Mustang runner control Video is here on KZbin.

[@susanturney9892]

Thanks, JoeDavid! I bought the gasket and the bushings. The parts guy at the Ford Dealership said I only needed 2.

[@susanturney9892]

Is there a torque ratio when you put the manifold back on?

[@susanturney9892]

And do you have to replace the gasket?

[@joedavideason]

I always replace any gasket on any tear down or parts removal.Might as well since it's apart and better now than later.If it leaks you would have to tear it down again.

[@RC-Heli835]

Are those 1/8 washers and C clips?

[@joedavideason]

Yes and I used brass 1/8 in washers as they are thinner than steel with no corrosion issues.

[@jimross5890]

I seen them plastic clips on ebay by Dorman part number 47099

[@jamesmnoblesjr9062]

Great video , Ford linkages fall off all the time. Lose the smokes

[@dianaelizondo2247]

Cancer stick