Ford Escape/Mazda Tribute Oil Pressure Switch Repair On A 3.0 V6 Engine

This video shows the replacement of the oil pressure switch/fix for a flickering oil light, oil sending unit.Ford Escape/Mazda Tribute Oil Pressure Switch Repair On A 3.0 V6 Engine
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[@user-bp4dm4ef3i]

I have this vehicle and exact problem. I've been back and forth with Pepboys, thousands spent to try fixing it. Noe I know because of your help!!! You rock man. Thank you!!!

[@tswisdomandrelaxa9748]

Thank you for this video! I own an 05’ Mazda Tribute and currently observing oil leak issues. This video shed light on what is going on with my Mazda!

[@notyrants]

Thanks man. My escape was doing the same thing. Taking the compressor off is the way to go. Your video gave me courage and it took me an hour to fix. You are the Man!!!!

[@TheCtndahouze]

Thanks for the video. My next fix on my 04 Ford Escape within the week.

[@michellegarza9614]

Thank you so much for the great video. It's exactly what my escape needed.

[@Halfrightfox]

Thanks Man, Super simple easy fix. appreciated very much

[@Celtic-Texan]

You're not alone, 2012 Mazda CX-9 with the exact same problem. Thanks for the video as you verified my assumption that it wasn't loose or leaking thread issue but in fact internal to the switch.

[@flipperpaw]

I have a 2004 Escape, sure enough this was the problem! Great video!

[@williamboyce7568]

Great video... Good camera work and nice informative narrative.

[@marcusjames7931]

I just changed the oil pressure switch on an '05 Mazda Tribute thanks to this video. I detached the A/C compressor as indicated and obtained easy access to the switch which was leaking and causing the low oil pressure light to flicker at stop lights. Only correction I can make to video is the bolt on the switch takes a 21mm deep well socket, not a 22mm. Thanks CarMan!!

[@mrxanthios7045]

I need to do the same thing. Does the A/C compressor need any other work besides removing the bolts and moving it to the side? Also, when I remove the switch, should I expect oil to explode and start pouring outside or is it safe?

[@tocrob]

the hole/thread is the same size but the "nut" part could be 21,22 or 24mm.

[@jimpino3563]

Perfect Car Man!!!! Did it just how you said and it was clear cut. The only issue i had was damn pepboys part listing for my 04 mazda tribute was a smaller threaded shaft. Finding this out after the car is apart really sucks. Took it back with original part in hand and they did not list another that will fit. So I return it and off to advance auto i go and they listed the exact same part i return another no go so off to auto zone i go and lo and behold different brand same shaft size as others...WTF!!!! so the autozone guy said let me try something and looked up an 05 tribute and it listed a different number and waalaa a perfect match.....an hour and a half wasted searching for i part i thought i had but other than that PERFECT THANKS!!! I wanted to share this experience to alert others that ford/mazda must have used 2 totally different oil pressure switches on their 3.0 V6.

[@punchdrunque8584]

Im in no way associated with PepBoys but I will tell you that locally to me they are revamping their stores to become part stores again and less "bling" factory merchandise. Hated when they started pushing all the bling crap and gave you the "i csn have that here tomorrow after 2 bs". Too much actual parts competition out there for a business known for auto parts to deplete their inventory to make room for Walmart items.

[@jshockley03]

Awesome Vid! 06 Mercury Mariner...Exact issue! Definitely appreciate this! 244,000..guess they got a limit...🤣

[@edstar1972]

Thank you for this!

I have the same problem! I didn’t know what’s that cable for? As soon I can, I will repair it. Thanks!

[@DOAJake]

Thanks man.

[@Halfrightfox]

I did this last year on my escape, and it was okay for a while. But Then it started leaking again! I wish parts were made with better quality these days.

[@elijahdabomb1]

Awesome video thanks

[@MrJaustin]

I have an 05 Mazda six it's similar minds Emmanuel but there is also like the exhaust and it seems a little different set up than what we have here but it is the 3.0 sure that generally be the same spot I just have to take a few more things off

[@hardcoredj07]

im thinking this is my issue, nice video..

[@punchdrunque8584]

Been reading up on this and no one clarified sending unit location, thanks. And you were right regarding the lonely video, I was shocked, this appears to be a VERY COMMON problem on these engines, probably due to sensor location and it getting cooked with high engine compartment temperatures. Either that or just a crappy sensor to begin with. Thanks for the vid, helped this ol' fart out, fer shur. Best to you and yours.

[@punchdrunque8584]

Oh, when I say no one clarified location, that relating to the fact that someone not knowing the location of the sensor probably has no idea which is the number one cylinder and that the reference point many gave.

[@punchdrunque8584]

I just became owner of an '05 Escape. Two days later the oil light started coming on. I'm pretty sure the previous owner may have experienced the light coming on but hey, not his problem any more. No engine noise, no other related diagnostic readings so hopefully this is the culprit. Engine did show indication of backyard shade tree attemps of cleaning oil off externals and looking at your example, pretty sure mine will look the same.

[@louismenard48]

Thank you!!!

[@jamiejonesthecarman]

your welcome , hope it helps

[@foxybat4774]

good vid. looked like u was also missing an exhaust bolt above that sensor

[@billarlon7797]

Some people were asking if the oil needs drained first. IT DOES NOT!! Also a friendly tip, clean that connector out with some MAF cleaner. Mine was dirtier than a pig in shit.

[@Beba-qv3db]

Ford Escape 2002 3l, 6v, 242 000 miles- similar symptoms, changed sender unit. it was no oil leak around sender unit. Still have blinking oil light when hot , at stop lights... I used mechan. gauge and my oil pressure was 30 psi after 10 min. on idle in my garage...

[@jamiejonesthecarman]

+Rich Z my guess , drop the oil pan , most likely you have sludge clogged in the pu tube Causes oil light , could put some seafoam in oil and see if you break it down change the oil

[@jamiejonesthecarman]

+Rich Z you do the seafoam directly into the oil multiple times until it's clean

[@Beba-qv3db]

Thank you for your help

[@freddelamielleure4519]

Did you ever get it fixed?

[@freddelamielleure4519]

I have the same problem, oil light flickering at idle after warm while in drive. Checked oil pressure with manual gauge, had 35 psi after running for 20 minutes, so I replaced the oil sender switch and still doing the same thing, my motor runs great and no noises.

[@theoravelo136]

Hello CarMan. What is the part number of the oil pressure sending unit/sensor?

[@tonyp70817]

Thanks, CarMan! Just one question, you mentioned you removed the driver's side front wheel. Was it the driver's side or passenger's side?

[@jrider5313]

Most definitely passenger side. I caught that too.

[@joesly2620]

looks like passenger side

[@tonyp70817]

CarMan, I'm going to have to change the oil sending unit on my daughter's '02 Tribute. And after watching your video, I have another question. Once I remove the serpentine belt, unbolt the AC compressor and tie it out of the way, is there any danger of the AC lines accidentally cracking open and breaching the AC system? The AC lines look pretty brittle. Thanks again for your video.

[@Kourspi]

Same issue here on a Jaguar X-Type 2.1L V6. The oil presure sender is exaxtly at the same position. Ford and Jag engines are pretty similar if not the same ! The oil warning light comes on at traffic lights, oil smell as it drips on the exhaust etc. My question is, do i have to vaccum the gas from AC? and release the gas hoses or can i do it by just unbolting the AC compressor? Thanks a lot ! and thanks for the Video. There is nothing on the KZbin for Jaguar X-Type but that helps as the engines are having the sender at the exactly same position.

[@miked5563]

Thank you, Sir. No more blinking oil light.

[@jamiejonesthecarman]

+mikeD did you think it was a pretty simple repair

[@miked5563]

JamieJones TheCarMan yes

[@jamiejonesthecarman]

+mikeD awesome was it leaking

[@BatteryGeekReviews]

I have an 06 mazda tribute with this same engine and I think the same issue. Get low oil pressure light at idle after it warms up and after driving on the freeway. An additional issue is that when I drive hard (full throttle) or get off the freeway I also get this burning oil smell coming through my air vents. It usually goes away after a min or two. Would the oil sending unit leaking cause this ?

[@Anonymoose0913]

Battery Geek anyone have an answer to this shit? I have the exact same issue.

[@dersterf9676]

The 2001 Tribute has a spot for a cabin air filter...although it does not come with one...I put one in and it pretty much eliminated the burnt oil smell.

[@waderyun.war00034]

Yes it would it drips down and gets on the exhaust.

[@Collector2006]

Never replaced one of these myself but that is right next to the oil filter and the oil filter is right above the exhaust. You're getting oil on your exhaust and that's whats causing the burned oil smell.

[@billarlon7797]

Thank America for you guys, my 08 escape has the same issue tho it could be the oil pan gasket, when I figure it out I will update

[@Black_Sniper2587]

ok on a mazda b3000 if it has zero oil pressure and it causes the motor to lock up, this sensor would be the problem?

[@vlasfarg]

More likely the oil pump was bad

[@punchdrunque8584]

No, this is a video that shows sensor location and replacement, thats all. It is not a cure all video. Zero oil pressure indicates a pump problem or severe oil blockage. Like you, I'd liked for him to recommend check pressure with a mechanical gage. But until you access the sending unit and remove it, you can't do that either. In making these vids sometimes you just forget saying some things you might have wanted to say.

[@siphilipe]

I took my car to the nearest garage and I was surprised that the censor has been changed in few minutes while the compressor installed. Unfortunately, he added that my problem is more serious, which is the oil pump not the censor.

[@Ronbo765]

Anyone know the torque spec?

[@MartinIDavies]

oil pressure sensor vs oil pressure switch? are they one and the same?

[@jamiejonesthecarman]

+MartinIDavies yes it is

[@MartinIDavies]

Thanks for the informative and prompt reply

[@punchdrunque8584]

In most cases today they are the same but not always. On some applications an oil pressure seitch might be a gateway device accessing and regulation oil flow. The sensor generally implies a device exclusively in operation of a gage or light feeding info to the system brain for disgnostics.

[@alergiof]

Is it necessary to drain the oil for this procedure ???

[@billarlon7797]

argelio fernandez I was wondering the same. The part is barely even mentioned within the Hanes repair manual

[@hardcoredj07]

I have an issue there is 2 thread sizes to choose from. .. how do I know which one to pick from online or local car part shop

[@lonnieworkman8727]

The difference will be if you have an oil "light" or an oil "gauge". Your parts man should be able to see which part number is for your particular application.

[@theoravelo136]

Hello Dan. Were you able to find out which thread size to get? Thanks.

[@keithmjr]

When I was at Oreillys they asked if I had the light or the gauge and handed me the part based on that.

[@SRJ2832]

Is the ⅜" for the 2006 Escape by 3.0L?

[@charleschapman2428]

I'm sure you were meaning the passenger side wheel.

[@stevehoward210]

Thanks for this video! * I assume your are working on a right hand drive vehicle? I ask because it is on the passenger side on my 06, but you mention the drivers side at 0:57. - UPDATE: I got past this, if it is left hand drive, it is certainly the passenger side wheel that is to be removed. * Also, can I expect oil to spill out when I remove it requiring a catch pan? UPDATE: Oil did not come out * Lastly, removing the air conditioner bolts seems by far to be the toughest part of this. It looks like I have to remove lines to get the top two bolts. Did you have to do this? If so, any hints? - UPDATE: It was easier to get to the top bolt than I thought. I removed it without touching the lines and allowed it to hang freely. Another video suggested supporting the bottom with a jack. I would pay $15-20 for a set of Harbor Freight ratchet type wrenches to make the top one easier to remove. These are 13mm. My sensor itself was 21mm. Last question: How snug should the sensor be when the new one is installed? With the teflon tape it came with, it was getting really tight, but ti looked like it had 1/8" of thread still showing between the based and the block. UPDATE: I ended up just cranking it until I wasn't really laying into it. If I had to guess, it was about 75 foot lbs with a torque wrench. Last tip: Don't completely tighten the bottom two lag bolts when reattaching the AC compressor. That will give you some wiggle room to put the top bolt in, after which you can tighten the two bottom ones.

[@Ronbo765]

Did you have to drain the oil first?

[@PredatorPride]

bump, does anyone know the answer to this question?

[@punchdrunque8584]

If found at this location it should not be necessary. However in that nearly DVERYTHING in your car relies on electrical information, when removing parts, I ALWAYS disconnect the battery. For some that is thought to be a bit of overkill. Doesn't matter to me, Id rather go for the overkill than short out some other component in the system. NOW, the problem there is, if you had "disgnostic codes" stored, most likely they are gone now and the system starts that process over.

[@blaaq360]

What caused the problem? Not changing the oil regularly?

[@tocrob]

no.

[@rodsdaytona]

Thats mine too, 11' Escape, and Ford wants 3bills for the repair...ouch!

[@jamiejonesthecarman]

+Rod Pyle easy fix

[@punchdrunque8584]

From recent exprrience with other vehicles, i determined dealerships want $300.oo for anything and everything not routine maintenance. They wanted $325 on last estimate PLUS parts. I went independent and full repair and parts was under $100.

[@jcartechnology3489]

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