Ford Expedition - TEMPERATURE BLEND DOOR ACTUATOR REMOVAL / REPLACEMENT (2007 - 2014)

[@matthewgallagher7218]

Thank you for the video! Gave me the confidence to try this as the shop did want to remove the dash!

[@QuiteAlright]

You're welcome and good luck

[@PocketManWes]

Thanks so much! That tapping finally worked my last nerve

[@QuiteAlright]

You're most welcome :)

[@Thatguy08]

Great video about one thing he should have mentioned is plug it in BEFORE replacing the unit because it is hard to get the wire back in.

[@QuiteAlright]

Thanks for watching and for your comment

[@grantpanage498]

New subscriber here. Your repair and tutorial videos are absolutely excellent. Keep up the good work brother. 👍

[@QuiteAlright]

Thanks for the sub :)

[@astipe77]

Thank you for showing the glove box trick. Very helpful 🤙

[@QuiteAlright]

You're welcome

[@ministryofpeacekmk]

Great video, thank you! I wanted to add that you give very thorough information too, thanks!

[@QuiteAlright]

You're most welcome. Glad to help :)

[@roger38888]

You are a do it yourself guru. Thank you.

[@QuiteAlright]

You are so welcome

[@jimstrachan7624]

Thanks appreciate the time for you to shoot this

[@QuiteAlright]

No problem. Thanks for watching

[@elitepknuable]

Great video but let me help you with that rear bolt: use a 5/16 impact nut driver and turn it with a ¼" ratchet wrench fast and easy just took me 10 min to do this

[@QuiteAlright]

Thanks for the tip!

[@Pbaglio21]

Thanks for this video my friend

[@QuiteAlright]

You're very welcome

[@HeyMavDak]

The SSV has this by the steering column so there's no need to remove any panels nor other hardware.

[@QuiteAlright]

Thanks for sharing :)

[@billjenkins687]

I'll give it a try. I swapped the same thing on my 2006 and it failed, blend door appeared to be seized. I will be wearing some stab proof gloves to avoid the inevitable blood transfusion later.😅

[@QuiteAlright]

Good luck :)

[@yamaki1]

Great video

[@QuiteAlright]

Thanks!

[@coleavalos9630]

I changed out the actuator now the blower will not turn on. After moving the position of the door it kicked on. Installed actuator. Everything worked. Put dash back together now blower will not kick on. Any guesses? I was thinking the actuator and blend door both have position feed backs to the control system which only allows blower to kick on if positions are aligned. But that seems not to be the case.

[@fanofthegame100]

Probably a loose connection at the wiring harness connection which is just behind the glove box door very close to right side of passenger leg room space.

[@mobilemechanicservice]

Great job

[@QuiteAlright]

Thanks

[@chuckalbright708]

Do you know where the hvac temperature sensor is located? I have a 15 platinum 3.5L

[@QuiteAlright]

Hi I never had to change one on Expedition, but I believe it should be in front of the vehicle, behind grill or bumper

[@davidchristian602]

Yeah I just replace the blend door actuator in my 2010 expedition was and I'm still getting the clicking noise. Could use a little help if possible

[@QuiteAlright]

Are you sure you replaced the right actuator? There is couple of them in the dash and one is waay down under the dash, very hard to reach. If you have a higher end obd2 scanner which can access hvac module then you can run diagnostics. It would go through all of the actuators and synchronize them. If one fails it would point out which one it is

[@davidchristian602]

@@QuiteAlright Morning appreciate the response back. So apparently I did not replace the rite one. So the one I do need to replace is the one in front of center console. And no I don't have a code reader. So you have a video on replacing that one. I hope so cause your video was a great for the other one. And I really don't want to have to cut anything.

[@QuiteAlright]

@@davidchristian602 Hi, unfortunately I don't have video on how to replace the other one. But I remember doing it few years ago and it was quite a challenge. I'm away from my shop for next 2 weeks so can't check the exact labor time, but it is somewhere between 6-8h. Whole dashboard has to come apart. Now that is how much a shop would charge you and what they would do. Good thing is that it is doable without taking everything apart. Check this video maybe at least it will give you an idea what has to be done: kzbin.info/www/bejne/mWSQfZWvodmchZI

[@davidchristian602]

@@QuiteAlright I appreciate your time send me a link to that video I'll be giving it a shot tomorrow. Thank you again David

[@QuiteAlright]

@@davidchristian602 No problem and good luck

[@haroldsnorman]

Thanks got that problem now

[@QuiteAlright]

You're welcome and good luck

[@milendimitrov8535]

TY, i got that, broken teet. but there should be another actuaror, that is doing even stronger knocking, trying to find it .

[@QuiteAlright]

There is one all the way down under the dash. Very hard to access. As per labor guide it is like 7-8 hours to replace it and everything has to be taken apart, but it is doable in 1h or so through the opening close to pedals and under the dash. Very annoying job

[@jarethneox]

@@QuiteAlrightcould you please give more details about where is located? Is the same model of actuator?

[@jarethneox]

@@QuiteAlrightI have replaced the one of the video but i still hearing the bang sound

[@QuiteAlright]

@@jarethneox Unfortunately I don't have a video on the location of it. It is all the way down under the dashboard. Quite hard to access. By the book I think it is around 8h labor to replace it. I know my guys did it in under 2h but it way quite challenging as they approached it from the area right of the gas pedal. So it is pretty much located right of the gas pedal deep under the dash

[@cecilcollins3814]

Very educational

[@QuiteAlright]

Thanks

[@middlesc]

Isn't this the actuator for the passenger side temperature control? As Homer says - D'oh!

[@whosyodaddy763]

It has 3 total

[@PavelSubbochev]

If i have no air out of vents, is it the same actuator? Or there is another one?

[@QuiteAlright]

If no air coming from the vents at all then most likely you are dealing with a failed blower motor. I would start from there, check if it is works and if not if it is getting power. If it gets power than it failed

[@PavelSubbochev]

@@QuiteAlright The fan is working, I can hear it, but no air at any presets.

[@QuiteAlright]

@@PavelSubbochev Hmmm if mode actuator failed air would most likely blow either on the floor, face or front windshield depending in which position it got stuck. Have you checked cabin air filter for air flow?

[@PavelSubbochev]

@@QuiteAlright Most likely ac evaporator was covered with ice. Today is +5 and all working again. Looks like i need to clean it drainage

[@QuiteAlright]

@@PavelSubbochev Glad to hear everything is working and you figured out what was the problem

[@LuisGonzalez-uu5dx]

Thank you

[@QuiteAlright]

You're welcome

[@teejeter5697]

Removed old one.. new one plugs in without issue but the teeth are not lines up the same way as the original. How do I get the to go in the right place? Is this a calibration issue?

[@QuiteAlright]

Try insert the white gear first and then rotate the body of the actuator into the right position. If that doesn't work than just take the old actuator apart and use white gear to get the teeth in the right position. Hope this helps

[@workingman7865]

mine is not making that clicking noise, but the front driver side blows but no heat and the front passenger blows good heat........ is that actuator for both sides?

[@QuiteAlright]

Hi, if you have dual zone climate controls then there should be a separate actuator for the driver side and for the passenger side. The one on the video is main actuator which I believe is responsible for the driver side. Make sure to check your coolant levels before doing any work as low coolant will cause same symptoms. Also it is a good idea to connect higher end obd2 scanner and run hvac diagnostics as it will test each actuator and send a report if any failed. That would be the right way to do it to be 100% sure if it is not making noise

[@mikel1893]

Do you have to recalibrate it when you're done

[@QuiteAlright]

Good question. Usually no but it happened to me few times that it had to be done using higher end scanner which can access the module

[@mikel1893]

Thanks. ​@@QuiteAlright

[@QuiteAlright]

@@mikel1893 No problem

[@dustin829]

I am at 155k miles and about to do this for the second time. Whoever designed it this way should be punished along with those that made the two park spark plug that drops into ford engine blocks lol. Great video!

[@QuiteAlright]

Thanks. Unfortunately this actuators fail quite often and I definitely agree with you. Ford always seems to make things too complicated

[@redguym11]

We bought our 2011 in 2015, and it had already been replaced. I've replaced it twice since. I would also say to be very careful with the trim bezel. 10+ year old plastic that's been in the sun can get pretty brittle. Great video! That back screw is a pain!

[@Xoxo-zg2do]

بالنسبة لي لقد ازلتة اكثر من مرة اصلحه ويرجع يعطب

[@ivanblack2105]

AWESOME!!

[@QuiteAlright]

Thanks!!