Ford Explorer Ranger 4.0L SOHC Startup Rattle Fix: Timing Walkthrough Pt 3 of 4 Engine Timing

[@FordTechMakuloco]

These are the Tools and Parts I Recommend: Timing Special Tool Kit- amzn.to/2Jp2UdW Good Aftermarket Timing Kits- With Balance Shaft- amzn.to/2QfmqfN Without Balance Shaft- amzn.to/2SGWTxn Torque Specifications and Sequences: Camshafts- drive.google.com/file/d/1QFKsJY5hWh9kzVVsYwS_SdmNjHQGo5q2/view?usp=sharing

[@Fatlolojr]

Can you fix my 98 Ford Explorer it has the same problem I want to do it but I don’t have the tools you have

[@zerkfiter]

Tool set says is for 97 to 02 years

[@paulstandaert2042]

One thing I learned a long time ago is that almost any tool you buy pays for itself the first time you use it.

[@FordTechMakuloco]

Same for all

[@dealerauctionnightmare4689]

@FordTechMakuloco what would one expect to pay for someone to do this job?

[@joebaird3835]

All I can say is thank you!!!! I’m a professional diesel mechanic and this walk through saved me several hours of time reading the manual and looking up torque specs. Incredibly detailed and on a professional level. Again thank you so much

[@anthonyzhang4918]

I just finished this project! Thanks so much for the video guide! Your video and the Cloyes video have been an IMMENSE help. Tips for other amateurs like me tackling it: -Get the Ford timing tool, don't be a fool. You can save a couple bucks getting the Daimond Power toolkit instead of OTC. -Get a couple tables to hold your tools, because you will need a LOT of tools. -Motor mount bolts that go into the engine block are really easily accessed from the wheel wells, as are the spark plug wires. -The three passenger side bolts can be accessed relatively easily from above the engine after the intake is removed. However; you will absolutely need a long handled thin, fine tooth,flex head ratchet. - You don't absolutely need to remove the EGR tube. I didn't because it was so rusted on that the only way it was coming off was with a cutting torch. -Mark all your electrical connectors. -Mark the position of your torque converter-to-flywheel-to-crankshaft spacer- to-crankshaft . Paints pens are great, and silver sharpies work too. -IF your engine has NOT lost timing, you don't need to remove the camshafts (although I'm not disputing that you should). -Make sure you position your engine on the stand (Like FordTechMakuloco) so that you can easily reach the back of the engine. -You do not need a vice grip slide hammer if you can't find one. Go to AutoZone, rent their 5lb slide hammer, and tack weld a 5/8-18 nut onto an M12 bolt. You can simply thread the nut onto the slide hammer. -When removing the old rear/passenger jackshaft sprocket, FordTechMakuloco recommends separating the sprocket from the chain. Remember that for installation; drop the chain in first, then slip in the sprocket. -Because my guides had not completely broken yet, I did not have a ton of plastic floating around. My issue was that the main timing chain tensioner (Crankshaft to Jackshaft) has lost it's spring, allowing the chain to slap around. Due to this, I did NOT remove the jackshaft. In order to get the driver side cassette in, I used a wooden dowel to lightly tap the cassette past the cylinder casting. -If you accidentally break the rear (passenger) cassette upper bolt (the one that goes through the bushing) you can easily tap the bolt remnants out of the bushing and use any regular M6x1.0 bolt that is long enough. Space the bolt out with washers if you cannot fit your socket into the cassette. -Go on eBay and purchase an aluminum thermostat housing. The plastic ones, even Motorcraft, are total junk. Putting the upper radiator hose on before the intake makes things MUCH easier. -I feel like on some of the small bolts, it's safer to snug them up with a 1/4" ratchet than using a torque wrench. Even though my inch-lb torque wrench was on the right setting for the upper driver-side cassette bolt, it still broke it. If I had followed my gut on how tight it should feel, I would have been saved a lot of grief. -This job took me, an amateur (first time I've pulled an engine) a total of about 28 working hours (I did it in 2 days). I have impacts and electric ratchets that sped everything up a LOT. -Get a couple tables to hold your tools, because you will need a LOT of tools. -It will help immensely to have someone assist you with putting the engine back in. You need to line up the two dowels on the engine block AND the torque converter studs to the flywheel. The latter is a real bitch to do. One person adjusting the engine position and turning it over and one person below the vehicle making sure the studs line up is a great help. -The exhaust will get in the way when reinstalling the engine. Helps to pull it downward and jack the transmission up a bit. -You don't need to have an impact wrench, but you really, really kind of do. I recommend a 1/4" impact driver, 3/8 electric ratchet, and 1/2" impact wrench. -This job will kick your ass, and nothing is super "hard", it just takes a LONG ASS TIME and lots of meticulous labeling, checking, adjusting, ect.

[@soserrio]

which timing kit did you get?

[@dorianearnest4648]

Underrated comment right here

[@nunyadambidness1444]

Glad it went good for you BTW is this doable without pulling the engine?? Thx

[@eugeniujosanu279]

You should of just make your own video and post the link on his channel ... lot s of good info that sometimes mechanics forget to mention.

[@reinhardvandermerwe6585]

Haha... when I needed this to be done the DEALERSHIP didn't even want to touch it! Bear in mind I am from South Africa... Sooo, I studied to become a SOHC engineer via KZbin, and did my own. I have 3 of these engines in 3 Rangers, and I can do it with my eyes closed! Made my own special tools etc. Now I do a timing rebuild for anyone. Biggest problem here is parts, expensive as hell. Ebay helps a lot but that takes 3 weeks from the States.. And no, I don't want anything else. Probably the best built trucks of its generation locally! May the Ford be with you.

[@CleanSC]

One of the best how-to's I've seen. Great camera angles, explanations and detail. Good show, my friend. Too bad not many will get use of it, being not many will bother doing a job this big on anything with the 4.0 SOHC in it.

[@chrischiampo7647]

CleanSC the Best 🎃🎃🎃🎃

[@joecostantino3684]

Most end up in Junk Yards esp if the mileage is high just not really worth fixing.. For the expense involved i'd rather just swap in a 5.0. Or if its an Explorer buy one that already has a V8 and not worry about it

[@bjbeardse]

Yep when it is time for mine, Im just ditching the V6 for a 385 BBF.

[@Sig721Tau]

@@joecostantino3684 Not worth the effort? Is it too expensive for you? Or are you just a V8 fanboy? Are you just lazy? A brand new crate 5.0L V8 Coyote engine will definitely cost more than any repairs on this 4.0L V6 Cologne engine. Not too much all of the electronics (ECUs, etc) that you'll have to buy separately.

[@joecostantino3684]

Okie Rider V8 fanboy? HA thats a good one no infact I drive a Ranger with a 3.0 the V8 I was referring to was the older 5.0 that was used in the Explorer that some swap into a Ranger.. These SOHC 4.0's are just a bad design overall and as I said Not worth the effort to fix most of the time. Ford should have stayed with the OHV 4.0 that worked for years and left well enough alone.. It probably wouldn't be so bad if it had all the timing chains on the front of the engine but thats not the case.. 5.0 Coyote Lmao.... I wonder if that would even fit, but an interesting idea though.

[@nickd.7267]

I've found a very excellent way to fix this problem actually, I've owned one. First, you make sure the fluids are full. Then, you clean the interior. Finally you drive it in your yard. Lastly, you put a for sale sign in it.

[@llennon73]

dude your are the man..overhauling my engine with this vid has made it super easy

[@ghostwrench2292]

Thanks for this video series. I’m a dealer tech who had to replace the LH cylinder head on this engine and found the information in workshop manual left me with many questions. Nobody else in my shop could give me the answers to my questions either. This video series had me prepared for what I was going to see in doing this job and a clear understanding so that the job would go smoothly. Thanks so much!

[@SHUTUPANDPLAYGUITAR]

Thanks! I've been a car tech since 1981. Things sure are different now. Where were you in he 80's? Could not do these Ford engines with out YOU .! Awesome videos. Would give more but TTY bolts are really expensive.!

[@SHUTUPANDPLAYGUITAR]

BTW there was no mention of the rear roller followers reinstall. The tool did not fit to remove them. When do they go in for best results?

[@glmaddox0251]

Just completed this after watching all of your videos ( and a few others) about this job. All is complete and my old Mountaineer is back on the road. Many thanks and many bloody knuckles, liked and subscribed.

[@arthurfricchione8119]

Your videos are clear and precise. Probably the best Ford videos on this channel. Enjoy all of them. 👍👍

[@joelquintana7587]

I did the job about 3 years ago was big challenge for me i wish you video was in KZbin channel. At the time you video are Awesome Man. you are very professional. I learned from you i lot Thank so much

[@mikecont9742]

This is one of the best how to videos out there. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.

[@nickolasedmunds]

His videos Helped me diagnose which helped fix my parents Ford Taurus transmission issue with the torque converter failure. Good mechanic

[@steveo782812]

That is crazy how many special tools you need to time this engine.

[@Texasknowhow]

Tools cost more than the parts... Geezzzz

[@1badk20]

Fords

[@Texasknowhow]

Lynx Star Automotive - It’s all relative as they say. You’re right tho, it’s the modern trend.

[@Sig721Tau]

Steve M. Go and try to rebuild a Lamborghini or Ferrari engine. That's freaking expensive.

[@joecostantino3684]

You make it look so easy. If I ever had to work on one of these engines my neighbors would hate me with all the swearing and throwing things lol. Magnets are definitely your best friends here

[@davidmiller4594]

One very complicated engine to assemble. Thanks for putting together an excellent tutorial. Very informative, clearly shown and easily understood. 👏

[@alkalineph9446]

I don’t own a Ford but because this video is so clear and concise I watched it and shared it with a friend who has an explorer with this motor. I wish you did BMW videos for late 90’s to mid 2000 vehicles. Great video!

[@xelercheddar8026]

Dont ever get a ford please, take it from me

[@knucklebuck3924]

Watching this rebuild has been very relaxing

[@bloorie87]

About to do this job on my 2006 ford courier (ranger) in australia Brilliant how to vid mate.

[@lanceripplinger8352]

Thank you for the great, detailed look at the 4.0SOHC motor. I wonder how many of the engines have had to get this done. My 2004 Ranger has this engine, but I baby it, and it has been very reliable and good to me. Keep up the great work! 😁

[@littletonybekind]

If you see this. Thanks for the long ass videos. A LOT of information. I make small short videos but for someone to do a video like u in 4 pcs takes experience and a lot of dedication. I don't see why people give it a thumbs down. I was looking to buying a 2 door explorer and I'm wondering if I'll ever do this. Good job man. Best wishes.

[@JoeyChrome]

The video itself is amazing, tremendous attention to detail, guy has an excellent, natural talent for teaching, he when anticipates problems one may run into and how to avoid and/or defeat those problems. Thumbs 👇👇👇 down come from the ENGINE ITSELF, not at all the video. This engine is a total, complete, worthless POS. A disgrace to the Ford legacy of fine automobiles LOL. Trucks are supposed to be durable. None of these internal engine parts appear durable. Fragile, junky plastic that is very prone to failure. Yes, Nissan, Honda, and many other manufacturers use plastic engine internals. However those rarely fail. They certainly don't fall at the rate this POS fails. I truly hate this engine, it makes little power, gets poor economy,sounds like a sewing machine, has no redeeming qualities, other than to waste mechanics time and drain the pockets of unsuspecting customers 😆

[@WilliamBush1967]

Love your video on this truck I came here because I looked up torque specks from 3 different places and got 3 different answers watched a dozen videos but yours was the best I have seen in details and no bsing around.

[@richarddahlke2250]

Your torque spec for the rear lower cassette bolt ( the one with the o-ring) was listed as 156 " lbs. Video 3 of 4 29:12. I followed your instructions and snapped the bolt!! Your torque spec is incorrect!! I believe it should be 89" lbs. Almost half as much. I now have a BIG problem!!! There's no way to remove the broken piece inside the casting. I may have to spot weld the bolt to the case. And I was almost ready to re-install the engine. I'm VERY disappointed!! This should never have been released with your video.

[@MrGregBCE]

Thanks!

[@rickt1446]

3 years ago I followed this video. I bought the stuff now it’s 2x as much. But the timing chain cassettes and guides fell apart again. this is a great video. So I’m doing it again. I had bought Cloyes kit. But one mistake I made I mixed up the tensioners and installed the right rear on the left front and vice versa. Maybe this was the reason. But I’m following this video again. Thank you for the video.

[@FordTechMakuloco]

Do not use the Cloyes kit they are the worst.

[@rickt1446]

@@FordTechMakuloco I called and talked to them. They said their kits are better than all the other junk. Haha. Bad thing is I put one of their kits in another explorer I own. I have two. I’m starting to hear some metal to metal noise after a year. I hope it’s not falling apart. What’s amazing about these engines is how in the world did they assemble them on an assembly line. Thank you for your great videos.

[@owenwillis4194]

Don't forget to check the oil pressure restrictor rod for build up, GREAT VIDEO!!!!!

[@coalheatefm1157]

Mine didn't have one. I found out it was added later on and also mentioned in a Ford bulletin for timing chain rattle during startup. I believe it's purpose is to block the opening into the oil galley when the engine is shut down to prevent "drainback" of oil which causes the tensioner to starve for oil on startup. I was able to find the float or restrictor or whatever it is called. RockAuto has an item listed under 4.0 SOHC which includes the float.

[@willash5979]

Thank you very much for your detailed video! I spent 3,800 to have my engine pulled about 2.5 yrs ago and the so called reputable shop - the owner said he would have my ranger repaired and back to me in 3 weeks!! I got it back 1 year later !!! Today I slowed down to make a turn and heard a medium tapping sound that synchronized with the rpm’s . 4.0 liter 6 cylinder 2002 ranger 4 wd . I knew it wasn’t a rod because sound was not deep enough and it wasn’t high pitched enough to be a lifter but it was in between. Plastic valve covers and it sounded like timing chain, problem all over again cause you can hear it under the front left of the valve cover just a plastic echo sound. I knew better than to drive it home in case I was wrong and even if I was right I knew it could possibly tear up and cause more damage than what was already going on ! And it did what I thought it would do and thank God it didn’t cause more damage, but I’m pretty sure that the left front time and chain broke possibly the guide broke or the tensioner and the time and chain jumped off and threw it at a time and it cut off. I happen to break down right in front of a shop that does major repairs but he couldn’t even take the job or quote me a price because he didn’t have the kit the timing kit to do the job . I don’t know if I can rent one, but most people don’t have the timing kits because from what I understand that kit will only time that one engine I may be wrong about that I don’t know but anyways if there’s anybody out there that really knows what they’re doing That is a good mechanic that can reply to my comment I would appreciate it for some advice! I am a small engine mechanic repaired chainsaws weedeaters zero turns all small engine into my entire life, and I’ve always worked on my own vehicles to a certain extent I can do brakes alternators starters I’ve put a rear end under my truck. I can change transmissions out, I’m a good, very good mechanic, but this is something I’ve never done! If I can rent this timing tools to do this job from what I understand since I’m pretty certain that it’s the front timing chain cassette on the left side so I know I don’t have to pull the engine since it’s on the front not the backside of the engine! And correct on what I’m saying and I just be able to pull the radiator and the water pump and the pulleys and harmonic balancer, pull the valve cover off the left side and do the job with the engine still in the truck. I don’t believe anything broke any plastic censers and fell inside of the engine because soon as it cut off it cut off it wasn’t like I was going down the road at 60 miles an hour and the stuff happened, I didn’t hear any grinding anything being chewed up . I believe the tensioner just come loose in the sound I heard was the chain flapping against the tensioner and the tensioner smacking or the chain smacking the plastic valve cover it into that shop and then while it was in park the mechanic come out top the hood. I turned the ignition over and it turned over without making any abnormal sounds whatsoever in correct saying that I should be able to just remove the radiator and the left valve cover and the police and if I can rent the timing kit and replace the cassette on the left front? If anybody out there that really knows what they’re doing with this 4.0 L six cylinder 2002 model Ford ranger, can you let me know if I am correct and what I’m saying because I watched the video and I really think that that is exactly what happened to my motor is still left front timing chain, cassette tensioner broke, and then the timing chain jumped off and just threw it out a of time . If anyone could reply back, that knows their shit in plain English to let me know if I’m going the right course mentally on this mechanical issue, I would really appreciate it because I cannot afford to put this truck back in the shop again. I have the tools to do the job except for the timing kit and I think I could rent it somewhere. I’m hoping I can rent it somewhere, so if anyone knows exactly what they’re doing to give advice on this, I would really really appreciate it!!! God bless, have a good day and pray for our country!!!

[@ecmjr]

Just noticed the KZbin Award on your wall, nice! I have a 4.0L SOHC Engine so this video series is so valuable! Great Video!!!

[@Oldtimecarpenter]

Thanks so much for taking the time to produce another fantastic video. Big thumbs up!!

[@charlespavey1645]

For those who may feel unsure about the timing when they get done, a compression whistle would be good tool to use to check the firing order before you install the engine. Gives good piece of mind.

[@klc317]

Greatest video on timing these things I've seen yet. Awesome work!! Ive owned several of these but maticulously maintained them so Ive never had to experience this nonsense.

[@kennethwood9025]

I'm wondering if some threadlock on the new jackshaft bolt would be an extra precausion since my original one came loose. Great video!

[@jamesbruno5896]

Super detailed procedure! Thanks Brian!

[@CarlosVasquez-ly8xp]

Gracias amigo , estoy muy agradecido por todos los videos que compartiste , me ayudaron en todo momento , seguí todas las instrucciones que das y logré reparar el motor de mi Ford Explorer 2003 , nunca había hecho algo así , es más no soy mecánico , solo soy una persona que se atrevió para aprender , mil gracias ahora mi carro quedó como nuevo y sigue funcionando muy bien , espero que sigas compartiendo todo tu conocimiento , ya que eso es lo que hace personas valiosas como vos , bendiciones 👍🏼👍🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼

[@semperparatus678]

Buddy you saved my ass. I followed you through step by step throughout the whole process. I still can't believe the complication of the timing on the 4.0!!!! I was doing research and found out that this is a German engineered motor. Mabey that's why it's NOT like any other timing? Anyway, thank you brother. I have a 2005 Ford Explorer and a 2012 F250 6.2 so I subscribed to your channel.

[@mathmurdock]

What I find really cute is that the 4.0 never really had much of anything wrong with it, except that it required much more frequent oil changes. Mine was totaled in a crash at around 420k miles with the original timing components. I religiously changed the oil at 2500-2800 intervals, and almost never used synthetic oil. My oil of choice was the regular Quaker State 5w30. The truck did eventally develop a light cold start rattle around 250k though, but still got 19+ mpg (21 mpg with the front cranked down to 32" fender height!). We had another Explorer that had 381k on it when we sold it off. It had no issues with the timing components either. Both were 1999 Explorers.

[@johnferguson7235]

I think some Audi engineers went to work at Ford.

[@luciankristov6436]

John Ferguson Basically yes... The germans...we all know how their quality is... Built this slab of dogshit in cologne Germany

[@UnderGod-ie1lk]

Bullsht engines a hemi timing chain is 10x easier to replace

[@benrodeheaver701]

Probably true! I read the engines were bought by ford from a company in Germany. Imagine that. OBTY I'll take a 4.6 any day w/ 1 chain in the front!

[@jag12549]

Naw bro, then it would have been a timing belt With equal complexity, but a defined service requirement, rather than a maybe

[@fordnut4914]

@@UnderGod-ie1lk hemi are bigger piles of shit than these😂

[@dutch2120]

Watched all 4 of the videos on this SOHC and am glad I found them. I am starting on my 98' explorer and would have screwed it up if not for our videos. Fantastic information!

[@mightymoe4u2]

This is the best one i found . Thank you for everything. I will subscribe

[@briangarcia8122]

Ty very much for your four part series couldnt of done job without your help.

[@brotherpaulv]

Great instructional video, thank you for guiding me through it. One thing I feel mentioning is the RH cartridge upper bolt needs to snap in the groove. I had it outside the groove, and when I went to tighten the cam sprocket bolt, I noticed the chain was only riding on half of the cartridge. No big deal, but if you miss this the chain could damage the cartridge.

[@michaelandrisko748]

Man talk about patience and a job well done. If that was my ranger it would've went to the scrapper because forget all that

[@davecaselli1957]

Outstanding video. I had a 1997 Explorer SOHC. Never had to do this. Don't remember the mileage when I got it, had 190,000 when I shipped it off to donation. It still ran well but needed coolant temp sensors. I actually had gotten parts but didn't want to mess with it. Good vehicle until then. THe electric door locks failed-- annoying to lock all 4 doors and the rear. Had a drain that killed the battery. Looked like it was directing me to some modules so i installed a knife switch isolating the battery when it sat for several days, (DIY owners have to learn these tricks)

[@FT4Freedom]

Probably one of the most important notes for this timing project is to PRE-PRIME the chain tensioners prior to install. They are spring and hydraulic function. They do not self prime very well if installed dry.

[@mousetoad7040]

I recently had the 4.0 grenade itself without warning 3 hours from home in my Sport Trac. I recently had replaced inner and outer tie rods, upper control arms, tires, alternator, transmission cooler hard lines (rusted through), trans filter and fluid, shock absorbers, front hub assembies....had I known about this timing design flaw I wouldn't have spent another dime on this $1500 ford. I drove a 2000 Town Car to get home, and it nearly caught on fore 2 days later due to a brake pedal switch design flaw (not the "burn your house down while you sleep cruise control switch recall either!) Gotta love Ford! Anyway, my daughter paid $4500 (too much but that is the local market here) for an 06 Exploder with same miles. I think I hear the timing rattle, How much would it cost to have the timing done, I assume more than the vehicl is worth with 175,000 miles? Needs rear wheel bearings etc., just replaced cracked thermostat housing with an aluminum one.

[@carys1157]

Very talented GOOD JOB THANKS

[@brettnelson3565]

Good video bro ~ one of the Best on youtube for precision how to do it the correct way. Your certainly a very smooth skilled pro... Thanks for sharing.

[@paulsosa1872]

This makes the 5.4 3v a walk in the park.

[@southernfriedhippie]

I firmly believe there is a special place in hell for engiineers. I'm so glad I sold the 99 explorer.

[@Sig721Tau]

Are you too dumb or incompetent to fix this engine. Its not that hard.

[@JoseGarcia-vb3vh]

@@Sig721Tau you most be one of those engineers who designed that engine

[@superduty4556]

Most engineers hate things designed like this.

[@darrenplotts5685]

I miss my 98 5.0 right about now

[@Mrguy-ds9lr]

I'm with you! Special place for engineers. Sometimes I'm like ,who the hell designed this!

[@mrschwifty5564]

Thanks for doing these videos man.

[@alexmontecello4966]

I'm in Brazil setting up an explorer 2008 your video is helping me a lot

[@car5car5]

It took me 10 min to fix with Ford rattle fix kit.

[@2manihobbies]

Excellent video. Great in depth explanation of aligning the components.

[@anthonybutler961]

When do you put your rollers back in ?

[@joshg4487]

Great video set, truly informative and eye opening. Btw, go to the 41 min mark and you will notice the upper bolt for the rear guide on the right head has the washer askew. It is caught in groove of guide, not clamping down on face of guide. That would suck to let go after all that hard work.

[@HerveJaxx]

It's supposed to be like that

[@blueplasma5589]

I'm at 41:00 and don't see that.

[@thomasconway8139]

This is a wonderful guide to use as you go. Only one question comes to mind after watching it. If the roller follower tool doesn't work on the ends, How do you get those back in after the re-install of the camshaft? Back to neutral, then what? If you can't compress the spring on breakdown. How do you do it on install?

[@rosiemckinzie8608]

Take your roller follower tool to the grinder and take down the sides of it. A good tip from another commenter. I got mine installed this way.

[@upnorthvids]

very detail oriented professional videos with lots of time editing video i'm sure. Thank you for providing these tutorials very helpful! Much appreciated!

[@nasiruddinmufti812]

I am to much thankful To you for your this great lesson. God. Bless you

[@12wingwfetech]

If there was ever a reason to buy a Toyota this video certainly is it .

[@crackhanger9467]

was debating which 4.0 to go with when looking at some trucks. thanks for convincing me to go for the OHV instead :)

[@joetterolison1286]

So far You are doing a GREAT Video

[@a502bz]

Excellent videos, explained the process very well!!

[@davedeatherage4902]

Good one again Brain, 3 of 4 thank-you.

[@williamcamp2582]

Great video. Got my head straight and walked me through this pretty easy. Not much info about the fine details on these motors out there

[@gijo5088]

thank you FordTechMakuloco for your videos!! :)

[@Kyfried71]

Great video, i ordered the Melling kit 3-398S from rockauto, it has notes that state something about a 2mm shift from centerline over the yrs, and front jackshaft,balancer, and crankshaft sprockets must be updated to latest OE design, if old sprockets are used timing system will fail? Did you use all new sprockets on front with the melling kit? About $700 in parts and tools so far to get ready for this job, sprockets will add $250 more eek!

[@airsmith298]

You are the man. Great videos. Wish I could afford for you to swap my ranger motor.

[@FloorItDuh]

They should have kept this an OHV engine and just engineered from the ground up a new engine to replace it. I feel sorry for anyone who owns one of these. This makes timing jobs on modulars look like a cake walk.

[@FloorItDuh]

Not saying they aren't but for some reason people still bitch about them.

[@Fatlolojr]

Lol mine had the chain issue I’ve been driving it for about 10months by now with it

[@davidholt7126]

Mod motor timing is easy compared to this. This is a nightmare lol.

[@1badk20]

The darn engine has to be removed to do this, at least on the Explorer's. I did this on my 1997 Explorer, and it is the worst. So much time and money involved to do something that should not be so over engineered.

[@anthonybeaudry6066]

Hey Joe, was kinda thinking the same thing. With Brians killer video on how to do it, does not look that bad of a job. looks like a money maker kind of a job if you have the patience and the right tools. couple jobs like that per week sounds like good money. Just saying

[@josecitizen2209]

Great video, what would also be helpful is to include links to the other parts on the decription area so people don't go searching for the other parts of this process. Great job!!

[@B11video]

This may seem like a stupid question but, Why the hell would they use plastic parts inside an engine? especially in such a high friction application?

[@alexkaye9781]

I know there is a big keyway and a smaller keyway for the special tool on the balancer. What slit does the small keyway go into? For some reason, the special tool does not hug the whole balancer when tightened. This causes the balance shaft with the chain on, after all marks align, to be off like 2-3mm's. Thoughts? If I could upload a picture, I'd show you. So, I just use the first available hole, and it still does not align 100%. At 5:49, I'm right there with you. I'm talking around 2:20 time. Small slit. Thanks!

[@JH-oh1in]

The rear if the gear and chain doesn't want to drop through, I find backing the 8mm head bolt out above the gear cavity gives it the room needed.

[@F6HemiCharger]

Great series!

[@jimdavis5u]

@42:49 - Dumb question - could you use a little bit of RTV if the gasket/washer to the tensioner is missing?

[@FordTechMakuloco]

no

[@jimdavis5u]

@@FordTechMakuloco Yeah, kinda figured. Thanks for this excellent video series, this gave me the confidence to attempt the timing repairs on my Ranger!

[@benrodeheaver701]

Yes, you can I had a really old tube of yellow form a gasket and worked fine ( 1.5 years)

[@seanlennon9731]

Thanks for the video best how to I've ever watched made it easy. Thanks

[@ДенисЖуков-я4э]

Hello friend! I really liked your video, especially since I'm just repairing such a motor. do you have a video on how to replace the inserts of the intermediate shaft that are in the block? and can you tell me if you need to deploy them after installing new ones? thank you!

[@lancerobbinssr4546]

THANK YOU FOR RAISING MY IQ WHEN IT COMES TO DOING MY 2006 MUSTANG 4.0 MY TIMING ASSMBLY DIDNT START THE RATTLE UNTIL 224460 MILES. ONLY THE DRIVERS SIDE TOOK A POOP BUT I KNOW THE PASS SIDE IS STANDING IN LINE TO USE THE BATHROOM To TAKE A POOP AND SINCE THE ENGINE IS OUT I MIGHT AS WELL FRESHEN IT UP SO A RE RING KIT I TONBE INSTALLED THAKNS

[@michaelturner7300]

when will you post part 4 of 4 ???? I am in the process of timing my 05 explorer 4.0 sohc - need some tips on re-installing engine back in truck . You have been very helpful -- great videos !!!!

[@Kanesgarage]

Excellent work

[@jorge195501]

Thank you for the video, why the center screws Hass to be replace it.

[@TheChillinCody]

How do you check if valves hit the head mine slipped a few teeth and I'm worried about bent valves

[@thinknow1]

it was a great idea to put cheap plastic guides for four chains; my brother just got one with all those symptoms the tensioners were replaced but still makes rattling noise

[@luisriveravelazquez259]

Thank you very much for your contribution in this video, it was very useful

[@1Patient]

I have a noisy lifter Drivers side Front. Is it the Tensioner/Cassette or the Hydraulic one vs. a bad lifter? (2011 4.0) I was watching you in this video and something struck me about you FordTech. There is something about you... the way you make your hands move, the way you talk whilst you work with your hands, your are meticulous and articulate. Even though I'm not doing an Engine Rebuild, I was drawn to this video just because of the way you were working. Thanks for sharing. Great Video by-the-way.

[@jamesblack4072]

Wow your Awsome I’ve haven’t rebuilt a 4.0 yet but I want to just have fun to do it with your videos kind of brings back good memories of engine rebuilding ports I’ve done plenty of Chevy 350s -454 One or two 351 Windsors even though this motor 4.0 look like a pain in the ass it actually looks pretty fun just a rebuild one thanks for your videos I can’t wait to your number 4 video comes out

[@jsredstanley3]

You can fix mine when it goes

[@jsmalls4848]

Fordtechmakuloco did you have to replace all front sprockets =jackshaft -crank-balancer ?? Melling 3-398S kit states all new oe style sprockets must be used due to 2mm shift of centerline over the yrs or will cause timing system failure? Thanks

[@zamoras4617]

Lots of good info and great video lots of great and clear examples

[@robertmendoza656]

always enjoy watching your video thx

[@eliestvanik301]

great video Brian

[@felipehernandez6868]

you the best thank you my friend for this class

[@FT4Freedom]

Brian I love your work and videos. The most informative presentation, although a few missing details. Like drive the vehicle off the cliff. Or drop the engine in the ocean. I'll be having Ford just swap in a new engine on a 3 year warranty.

[@iamdjnam]

Been hearing a lot of nasty stuff with the cloyes brand chain guides breaking off. You recommend melling?

[@FordTechMakuloco]

Melling seems to be ok.

[@jeffgenchi5863]

I have loved these videos. I have this engine. I think the engine is not bad to work on. Just mad at Ford for making it a pull the engine requirement. I love the performance of the engine though

[@Poorboyzgarage447]

Jeff Genchi I do too I have a 02 ranger 4.0 and it’s never gave me a problem

[@jeffgenchi5863]

@@Poorboyzgarage447 me neither, my 2001 4.0 has 200k on our now. Great engine. I may have to pull it for some oil leaks but still running strong. Love the engine for sure

[@Sig721Tau]

Ford didn't design or build the Cologne engine. It was built and designed in Germany somewhere.

[@shark70007000]

Got ahead of myself on this. I had the front cover on and wondering where this thrust plate goes. I had to remove some parts to put it in. LOL The alignment tool I got from ebay was not to specs. I had to sand it down to fit. Had to take about a 1/4" inch off the highth of the one side. The one that goes inside the cam shaft was fine. And the top dead center alignment seemed to be fine.

[@petrussd8881]

Nice video. Will the reversal shaft prevent engine to start if not timed correctly.? I want to work on mine this coming weekend. Please reply asap. Thanks.

[@mkps_2340]

I changed the control chain and after that the pulse will no longer go to the coils, the injector nozzle pulses normal ... will it be out of point?

[@JAlmamo]

Amazing clean work , thanks for sharing your great knowledge!

[@Texasknowhow]

Brian, you make it look easy and we all know it isn’t. Another good video. Any recommendations on the head gaskets change out. I’m doing all this but including pulling the heads and replacing the gaskets. Thx!

[@FordTechMakuloco]

It is easy if you take your time and don't get frustrated. The engine stand is key here to making it very enjoyable. Head gaskets are pretty standard on these just make sure you replace the bolts and be sure to use only Ford head gaskets.

[@dangdang4715]

So I bought an 05 explorer 4.0... i took off valve covers because vehicle would not start. Passenger side rear of head where timing chain is or cassette found that the chain was loose because partially broken guide. I feel like mine was similar to yours. My question is even tho it would not start am I able to follow this tutorial or are my valves possibly damaged?? Great and beautifully done video.

[@rolandoorta7275]

Gracias por la clase you are expertos congratulaciones i ammechanic un México