Ford F-150 No Crank No Start: Engine Starter Motor Diagnostic Walkthrough!

[@FordTechMakuloco]

The only remanufactured starters I Recommend: (check fitment guide) amzn.to/3slXgjZ Forscan is a free Ford Specific Diagnostic Software: Download Here- forscan.org/home.html ELM 327 Adapter I Recommend- amzn.to/2GC6dBj As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.

[@Mudslingr]

I just received a message to text you with a phone number included. Was that you ?

[@DonziGT230]

@@Mudslingr Those are always scammers, never text them.

[@xr500t]

@@DonziGT230 crazy! I've been receiving those response messages "send me a text" message for a little while and they're pretending to be the channel owner! I think they're trying to farm phone numbers so they can call you or send you crazy texts marketing something directly to your phone.

[@DonziGT230]

@@xr500t When you see them, even if not directed at you, click on the three little dots to the right of their comment and report it as spam, YT will kill it.

[@jeffone2nv]

@@Mudslingr that was a scam a lot u tube channels have this going on. Don’t respond to them or give any information. They even say you won or will receive a gift ignore them.

[@tomh.648]

Man, you are genuinely a class act. My old man was a Jedi-level mechanic & no matter how many tricks/tips he taught me, he always had more. The depth of knowledge you possess, & your willingness (enthusiasm, even) to help out anyone to find your YT channel - free of charge - while simultaneously running a FT Ford shop, shows the hallmarks of remarkable, ethical, generous human being. Thank you. I've been soaking up as much of your knowledge & advice as I can find for my 2012 F150 STX (2WD). I don't think my skill level is up to the trans cooler lines replacement, but just having the heads-up info that they're essentially a must-do fix, rather than blowing up the damn trans on the side of the road (not to mention thousands of dollars to fix) is awesome.

[@jkepps]

I had a 2003 Expedition (basically an F-150) and had a No crank/No Start situation, and thankfully found out via KZbin what the problem was. I immediately thought it was the starter, but after testing determined the starter wasn't being commanded. It turned out to be the starter relay in passenger side fuse box. I think it was a video by Eric O. You two have saved me soooo much time and money! Keep doing what you do!

[@garyh7949]

Thanks. Now I know where to look when my 03 Expedition ever develops the problem.

[@TonicofSonic]

With no "click" sound from the starter I would send you in that direction. Listen for a click, if it clicks try hitting it with a hammer type object while cranking. If that fails try running your jumper positive strait to the starter positive for a "boost" to see if it frees up the unit and it starts. If nothin replace starter. You can put the two easy bolts in and get to a better place to get that top third bolt in. In a pinch.

[@jkepps]

@@TonicofSonic it turned out to be the starter relay in the passenger side footwell fuse box like I mentioned above. Put in a new relay and VROOOM VROOOM!!!! No new starter needed.

[@JamesAgans]

Thank you Brian, I just had a no crank, no start. Replaced original Ford starter after 17 years lying on ground in the winter time. Three years later I found Loose sense wire. My fault. Thanks again. I still don't know why Ford has literally committed Suicide with the 11th Gen and later trucks. On My 1994 F 150 starter replacement was a breeze. On My 2004 it was a hurricane from hell. Henry would have fired every single one of their so-called engineers.

[@DJayAce4]

You're videos really are the best, seriously how could it get any better. You take us through the entire troubleshoot process from start to finish. For me it was indeed the starter! Just got it out of the truck, new starter is arriving in 2 days. Really this video is like dummy proof, that's how good it is. Again, huge thumbs up from me. You've helped me out for literally years now. Man I swear it's been like 8 years at least. Huge props to you once again.

[@artemis9789]

Good vid Brian. I know you touched on it but voltage drop on the power feed is my go-to when dealing with nc/ns issues. Every rookie tech NEEDS to know how to do a voltage drop test on a starter circuit. Keep up the good work brotha!

[@young11984]

Friend of mine was changing his starter in Autozone parking lot, didnt take the positive cable off the starter and when he double wrenched the hot wire breaking the nut loose the wrench hit the oil pan blowing about a 3/8” hole in it😂. They sold “flex tape” so he cleaned the pan and put an X patch on it thats still there today lol

[@abdul-kabiralegbe5660]

While removing an oil filter from a 1MZ-FE engine, the end of the filter wrench handle touched the exposed B+ post on the alternator (the usual rubber cover was off) and a spark flew to one of the AC lines, cutting it but not causing a blowout. Since then I made a mental note to always disconnect the -ve battery terminal whenever I'm working and DON'T need the battery connected.

[@HemiChrysler]

_A_

[@ProleDaddy]

Least the fucker coulda done was JB Weld a hunk of sheet metal over the hole. That shit would prolly be a lifetime repair. I'd shit my knickers just a touch every time I hit the key with Flex Tape, bro.

[@nordicpride9708]

When you said “autozone” I stopped reading 😂

[@Joe_L_D]

@@nordicpride9708They’re so bad that I’d rather order stuff from O’Reillys than buy something that’s in stock at AutoZone!

[@ryanschwartz9547]

Followed along as I worked through a no crank problem on my 2009 F150. I was actually excited to see power to the s terminal! Swapped in a new starter and she’s good to go. Thanks for posting!!

[@jondou7890]

Are you 4.6l?

[@oldschool9746]

Brian,thank you for your time and knowledge as you help so many people.I pray for Gods blessings and protection for you ,your family and your business.

[@richardthomas1743]

Good morning and thank you for all of the information that you share with us!

[@sophisticatedweasel]

Amazing videos as always. Here I was preparing to do a starter replacement and it was just a battery terminal that worked itself loose! Had enough juice to flip relays and turn on lights but not enough for the starter! You saved my bacon!

[@alanmorrison3598]

Monitoring the voltage at the main starter cable at the starter while cranking or attempting to crank is the best test of the cable itself after preliminary checks per your process..An amp clamp to determine actual starter amps is good info also.

[@DeanMeisner]

I love your videos. I rebuilt my 5.4 following your posts. Now I just found out my starter is fine it’s the darn battery.

[@WreckDiver99]

We had similar issues on our 2016 Expedition (Key on no crank). We also had other issues like the climate system not working right, the power lift tailgate opening, but refused to close, power running boards going down, but not up, etc. This all lead up to the Key On No Crank, by the way, this was with the engine running! Even more was happening, but...yea. Talked to two different techs that were highly recommended by friends, and both said "Yikes, this sounds like the PCM lost it's mind". Tow truck comes out, he says "Lets try it...FIRES RIGHT UP". We did the whole disconnect negative battery cable for 10 or 15 minutes, etc., but nothing. He didn't even hook a jump box, just fired up. Got it home, worked great for a week or two, but we had an appointment for it to be looked at. Day comes to take the thing in...NO CRANK NO START. Tow Truck comes out, he throws a jump pack and Robert's your mother's brother it fires up. Long story short? BATTERY! The battery tested good just a week prior to the issues...it was all the battery. :( Battery had full voltage, but the amps weren't there and the PCM said "Don't even try".

[@rays7437]

That's a good story. Most people get mad at me and don't believe me when I tell them their battery is probably bad. When weird stuff like that happens I have learned thar most of the time the battery is failing or there is a loose cable. At least on computerized cars. I've seen a lot of crazy things happen because of low amps. Always load test, not just volt test

[@WreckDiver99]

@@rays7437 Batteries play a massive role today. My 1999 Tahoe doesn't care at all, but these newer vehicles? Yikes. They also don't like old school battery chargers AT ALL. My 1999 Tahoe is just plug the 1975 Battery Charger onto the positive and ground and wait. The 2016 Expedition was "WHOA, WHAT ARE YOU DOING" and I saw the darn meter swing max current to 0 multiple times in a few seconds. At that point I said "Nope, tow truck it is". LOL...

[@rays7437]

@@WreckDiver99 And batteries aren't as good as before. Before, batteries were 50 pound monsters. Most cars now have compact batteries that fail when one cell goes bad. If a cell collapsed in an old style battery, it didn't kill it because the cells had room inside and didn't contact other cells if they collapsed

[@chriskirkland1347]

Great video Brian.. I teach aircraft maintenance and this is exactly how I teach troubleshooting. Divide the system by control and actuation then identify and isolate paths on a schematic. Or you can use the good ole KISS (Keep It Simple and Stupid) method where you start at one end or the other and go from there.

[@tjssittre3617]

Where do you teach? Aviation maintenance.

[@oby-1607]

Brian is the Guru when it comes to pickup trucks and everything else late model Ford.

[@d.h.taylor6790]

One of the best videos on this subject I've seen. I learned a ton and should be able to figure out my issues.

[@junkies4life]

What would I try next if my Ford still isn't starting and awesome video. Really helpful, thank you

[@abdul-kabiralegbe5660]

Really clear, concise and thorough video. 👌

[@davekunkel7832]

Excellent video- very clear. Even I can understand what to do when I check my dead 2004 F150 stuck at Rite Aid. Thanks Brian! This info is exactly what I needed.

[@hav2win]

You're such an excellent teacher. The best teachers are always about the details. Thank you.

[@lambition]

I did have no crank from bad ground connection to starter motor. That ground wire is also grounding engine block and remaining grounds will be through body ground. So, there will be no good grounding to starter motor if ground connection to starter motor fails. I found grounding issue when I was hitting on starter motor while having someone else turn the key. As I was hitting starter motor there was arcing from ground connection, that is when I realized it is bad ground issue.

[@moreykowalenko583]

even your basic video's are so informative. I absolutely love your videos. hats off to you my fellow auto tech.

[@toddspindler6190]

Awesome stuff for sure

[@cherryjam9602]

Literally the “right key” part of this video just saved me the price of a new battery 🎉

[@justinwilliams2144]

Heat soaked starters are fun. Had one on a 2008 Explorer. After driving for 30 mins, and turning it off, the Explorer would not restart and simulated the starter being out completely. After it cooled off it would start.

[@fishman677]

My 2013 F150 5.0 liter has the no crank, no start issue. In a few hours I will be doing everything that you outlined in this very well made, super descriptive video. Thank you for taking the time to make this! I hope I have a simple fix like the starter!

[@lmac5344]

what was it? starter relay or leadframe?

[@user-sg2yt6nc1z]

What was it

[@fishman677]

@@user-sg2yt6nc1z It turned out to be the PCM. After watching tons of videos and doing troubleshooting where I didn't even need to, I did pin point tests of the PCM's circuits. There was no 5 volt reference output.I bought a used PCM online that was programmed to my truck's VIN. I installed it and then had to use ForScan to initialize the PCM so the PATS and keys would work. It's been working fine since January. It was a real PITA working outside in the winter. Now I have a bad ABS pump Code 1440-20 ! A typical Ford. lol.

[@fishman677]

@@user-sg2yt6nc1z As per one of the KZbin videos, I cleaned many ground strap connections, some at the PCM and especially the ones under the truck that connect from body to frame. I suspect in my case, the PCM was not getting correct voltages and it may have burned out the 5 volts reference in the PCM. Just a guess.

[@brentonmccullough3990]

How did you know it was your PCM? Did you get the check gauges warning on the dashboard?​@@fishman677

[@rodneymiddleton9624]

Awesome tips. There's a lot of things that happen before the starter engages. Thanks!

[@russellgilbert3453]

Had that issue with my 1998 Lincoln Town Car. Found that one of the fuses for the DTR circuit blew. Good stuff, here. Thanks again.

[@alb12345672]

I have a GM of that year. Your column shifter bushings and sometimes the Transmission Safety switch can cause a no-start. Sometimes you can start in N, or wiggling the shifter. Also if you live in a salty area, replace the transmission shift/pull cable. It can snap at a very inconvenient time.

[@lance2la]

A bad starter power cable bit me. Didn't put any current draw on it that would have saved me money. Thanks for the videos

[@corygorman2939]

I really hope you respond to comments. 2002, F-150, 5.4... randomly decides not to start, and I start getting a clicking sound coming from the PCM relay. Swapped the relay, and it's still doing it . Ideas?

[@bassiclymike]

Nice detailed description and demonstration of how to approach this condition.

[@arpeggi2999]

FordTechMakuSmarter

[@cyrax1700]

You're a very good human.... I love you, and thank you very much. Waiting for more videos.

[@maxtap1]

What a complete and concise video. Im going under the hood after work today

[@howardfoster3235]

Great video,very informative,sorted my F150 thanks to this video,cheers.

[@headshot8888]

I did a starter on my 05 f150 last year. This being an 06 makes sense the starter went this year. It's like this stuff is programmed to fail at a certain time.

[@tylerprater6395]

Quite literally the best video ever! Thank you so much!

[@jondoes7836]

I had a intermittent no crank, no starter operation on my 05 F250. Cleaned terminals didn’t correct problem. Not fully convinced it was the starter, I wired up a test light in the cab to the solenoid terminal of the starter. About a week later, the no start occurred and the light was illuminated. Got it - Bad Starter.

[@rlenoxIII]

I like the fluke 88, you can use the min/max feature, for tests like this by yourself. Another excellent video, thank you.

[@young11984]

My dads explorer wouldnt start once, couldnt wait til i got off work so he and a friend put a new starter and battery in it but wouldnt start. I went by there when i got off work, walked up to it and the positive cable was swollen about the size of a nickel after the crimp on clamp. Asked if he had a nail and hammer i could borrow, they looked at me crazy but went left and brought me one back. I drove the nail thru the bulge in the cable in an angle, hit the switch and fired right up. Told him if he had waited for me i could have shown him it was just the cable corroded internally like dozens of other vehicles ive seen but nope they were impatient and made two 20mile trips to town to pic up the starter first then the battery all while working with the problem when they installed the battery.

[@johnhuffman7203]

So I followed your instruction, up to hooking up a meter , since I heard the clicking in the cab. Went for a start, but no voltage being sent to starter from ignition. Do you have any advice on where to go next?

[@wheat749]

Truly amazing video!! For us DIY mechanics - your knowledge share is amazing. Thank you so much!!

[@coryfriction2499]

Thanks for the videos! Any Forscan videos in the future?

[@thewholls7176]

Good on ya mate excellent job with the channel. Keep up the good work. All the best from Melbourne Australia

[@donswank6920]

Very thorough and easy to understand explanation . The video shots of the starter were clearly visible.

[@jman26388]

Thank you for the great detailed video 😎🕺💪

[@djr3485]

In a pinch you can also use a screwdriver and jump from the batt positive post on the solenoid to the control wire to see if the starter will turn over.

[@FordTechMakuloco]

You can do that or short it to the other main post to crank the engine directly but I don't recommend either to my viewers since there are no safety devices in place.

[@yogi799]

@@FordTechMakuloco Tried that today after doing more research... There is lots of incomplete info around as to what the solenoid does. If the solenoid is bad, this will crank the starter but the little gear will not kick out and engage the flywheel. My solenoid is bad and it didn't do anything, other than spun the starter gear without any effect, meaning you cannot start the engine that way if the solenoid is bad.

[@dougkelley1266]

Great pre check info. I did not know about the changing pats light on dash.

[@ramone.1021]

Great information. My truck has no start no crank , battery is good and new stater I have no codes at all

[@user-qz1hi7uw4j]

Same here but 2007

[@TonicofSonic]

Try the fuel saftey switch button in the passenger well. It is big, red, and ehen you push it your truck might start. Replace the switch if it works

[@xr500t]

I had a very high mileage starter that was parading itself as a weak battery. It turns out that the starter was so caked with carbon that it was preventing the starter from spinning freely and creating drag? And causing the starter to draw a lot of amps ultimately draining the battery as well. Anyway, I ended up rebuilding the starter myself and she spun nicely after that too bad I ended up buying a battery ahead thinking it was a dying battery!

[@huntingspud3086]

Great video and very informative as always!

[@mitchellwagner5141]

I just had to replace my starter on my 2006 f150. The little wire that is soldered from the back of the starter motor to the solenoid was corroded and severed. Can't complain, was the original factory starter with 173k miles on the truck lol. Advice for anyone this doing this job. Save yourself the headache of trying to get to that top bolt through the bottom and go in thru the side tire well. You will need to buy a cheap assorted plastic push clips for the mud guard after you take that off, but with the right extensions and universal socket I had my starter out in no time. It can be done from underneath, but if you have big hands like me, it's unbearable to work around the starter to get to the top mounting bolt

[@davidgoliath982]

has to be a no start if it is a no crank! 😂your vids are very well done.

[@rays7437]

It's how we word it in the service business because there is more than one type of no start situation. "No crank" as opposed to "crank" no start. But yeah I always thought it was funny

[@bobsmith1101]

Good Job sir. Very much appreciate your dedication and ethic.

[@skutahuniai4830]

Good video but I personally like to work backwards. First thing I would have checked was to see if the S terminal at the starter was getting voltage. If it was, pretty simple remedy.

[@andresgarcia7757]

This is gold thank you for posting this!

[@orvaroth1613]

Great vid as usual !! My 06 had bad connections at the starter relay and the "relay" box is no longer avail from ford--any suggestions? thxs

[@michaelmurray121]

Good morning Brian another great presentation great video.Peace n Love..

[@txgreasemonkey]

At 18:34 you speak of voltage to the solenoid at crank. What if there is no voltage at crank? Pulled starter and had it bench tested. Passed. Checked all fuses, starter relay is good. I changed the ignition switch and that wasn’t the problem guess I’ll try changing the NSS next? 2007 f150 with 4.6L. Thanks for the videos.

[@semperfimechanic]

Brother what a great video. Your truly the man

[@joerodriguez4294]

You are the best.. good good stuff!!! Thanks for the knowledge

[@davestewart9146]

Great video, thanks Brian 👍😁

[@leonciorodriguezaguilera9513]

Thanks a Lot Again Amigo FordTechMakuloco, Superb Helpful Video Tutorial!!, May God Bless You...

[@commensense25]

My solution was a new switch on the column, Very cheap to solve an intermittent no start problem.

[@toddspindler6190]

Very well explained.. Thank you a lot.. definitely subscribed for future problems 🤘 thank again for breaking everything down to layman terms for a non mechanic

[@campermike8879]

our 06 F-350 has had two replaced. First one someone tried to say the engine was locked up. I went out turned the lights on tried to start it. Lights didn't even dim and the starter made that exact noise.

[@dudleynisbeth924]

May GOD give you strength to make more videos.

[@andyallen5504]

Try the extra key. Wife droped her key on a 2011 f150 wouldnt do anything had it towed home got a backup key started up

[@FordTechMakuloco]

Yup that is why you check the PATS indicator first.

[@jaimerodriguez669]

My brother 2008 F150 he had a problem where his truck would no start or it would just shut off after I checked several things I finally found the problem it was the neutral switch on the steering column I replaced it no more problems

[@TyroneShoolaces-f8e]

LMAO, THANKS ALOT man, you just made me feel like an idiot. I just spent 2 hrs or more trying to diagnose a no start no crank problem. the battery was a lil low but shoulda tried cranking then i did find a loose ground wire on starter but apparently case ground will work too? then it still wouldnt start after removing all battery cables both ends cleaning and testing. then i watch first 3;20 secs of this video and THATS WHEN I KNEW HOW I FUCKED UP. i was trying to use the spare bare steel key made for the doors only NOT a key with starter chip in it !

[@fishman677]

OK . After following the steps from your video, I discovered that there is no voltage going to the S terminal on the starter when the key is in crank position. I then swapped the starter relay with the one from the blower and also checked the fuse #13 for continuity. When I put the key in the ignition, the P does not glow. With my foot on the brake, I can move the trans shifter to neutral and it is no start there either. The LCD display shows " starting system fault". No kidding. When I try to crank it, I do hear a slight click coming from under the dash as you mention in the video. I have no Idea where it comes from. So I am at a loss. The only other thing I can think of is the truck has aftermarket remote start that was working. I have no idea where I can disconnect it from to test. I bought the truck used 2 years ago and it has started and ran fine until this happened last night. Please post any other things to try. Thank you very much.

[@frederick6008]

Welcome back Brian.

[@donaldcawthon7588]

Good video. I have replaced relays that are clicking in the fuse box and 2 fuses. I forget which number. The PATS is proving out, I did the multimeter test at the starter positive/batt cable, have approx 11.5V When I put the positive lead from the multimeter on [S] wire, it shows zero and I turn into the start position and nothing changes, still ZERO. I can assume no voltage is getting down to the S wire?? HELP!!

[@seanmclatchy672]

Thank you for the helpful video diagnosis for no crank. I have a 2015 f150 with p2535 code. I have inspected all my electrical connections, battery is good. My fuel mpg has dropped greatly. Truck still starts and runs okay. No other codes. Can you recommend any procedure to follow for a diagnoses. Thank you for all you’re helpful videos.

[@mattk413]

Hi, got an 05 f150. I think there may be an issue with the PAT system. When the key is turned to the on position the security light is flashing very fast. Not sure if a key issue or what

[@jay2raw657]

Amazing video very detailed

[@coreyponcavage2732]

Excellent guide, thanks

[@shonuff_king1152]

Awesome Video Your very knowledgeable!! Great Job!!!

[@kiheibeachbum]

Just found your video. Wish I had found it earlier. Intermittent no crank. 2001 Ranger 3.0L 4x4 Edge. New starter, new battery, new ignition relay and new ignition switch. Passes PATS. Wiggling key or moving tilt steering will crank and start. Don’t think it’s the lock cylinder. Maybe cracked ignition actuator. Thoughts?

[@BB-xq6rj]

My no start no crank When I put the key in and wiggle it my PRND lights flicker. Is that a ignition switch issue or in the cylinder itself? 2011 f150 thanks for any help… love the channel !!

[@CTK123.]

Man you saved me a lot of time. Great video 👌

[@commensense25]

You have a column switch, $25, a starter relay in the passenger compartment $11. The rest is the starter $80 to $210 depending on source.

[@s.younisjawad1889]

Thanks man for all your videos. If you can help me, I replaced today battery for my ford expedition 2013 it was only hard start without any issues, after replacing battery now can't drive , no rpm response and if try accelerate got shut down, thanks again , I will appreciate yor advise

[@stevenhaney575]

Brian you need to do a video on how to do a voltage drop test. Your videos are the greatest on KZbin. Keep up the great work.

[@FordTechMakuloco]

I have a few.

[@mikechiodetti4482]

Thorough testing makes for proper repair/replacement. Good one.

[@joshuamartelle7573]

Very good video! I have a 2010 F150 that is no crank no start. I can hear both the relays in the passenger kick well and the relay under the hood click when I turn the key but after testing the starter is receiving no voltage from that S-bend when the key is in the crank position. Is there anything it could be beside a bad wire?

[@tlalexander3]

Yay mine just randomly started this today... One click and no start but the battery is good

[@tlalexander3]

Back again a year later with a different F150 and the starter went. At least this one is having intermittent issues instead of my other one wouldnt start at all out of no where

[@mxr248]

Ok I just happen to have a problem with a 2012 f250 6.2 gas no crank.. I have power going to the starter but when the ignition is turned to start the truck the s terminal doesn’t get juice… is it the ignition or a neutral switch issue??

[@Mudslingr]

Very informative. Thank you !

[@BobSmith-mc7uq]

Good diagnostic steps.

[@LandParkColby]

I just had my 2023 F150 towed to the dealer for this SAME problem. I am really worried about a 1.3 year old truck having these issues with about 54K miles. Under warranty so that is good, but I am out of using my truck for 5 days!!

[@raymundsantos2324]

Good morning sir, what would happen if you short the 2 big studs positive and negative on the starter? Would the engine start or would the starter motor just spin and not engage the engine flywheel? I forgot already. Thank you for your time!

[@peterbernier6348]

I love your program. I live in Southern California and have a 2010 F150 Platinum with 207k miles on it. It runs great. In bought it used two years ago and I don’t know or think there has been a service on the timing chains. Don’t want to take it to a dealer, do you know of any good shops in SD, OC or Riverside Counties. Thanks

[@kd7cwg]

We had a 2016 f150 towed in no crank no start. Customer tried changing their own starter and connected the ground cable that was on the starter mounting bolt to the solenoid 🤦🏻‍♂️

[@fredsalter1915]

Thanks for the vid, sir! Lots of food for thought!

[@brwadabrown43]

Very good instructions. Thanks.

[@richardcranium5839]

volt drop testing is the only way to go. i use the bypass meter style much easier and a carbon pile on the big cables.

[@mikevanvolkenburgh5348]

Thank you learned a lot

[@SaraTucker-q2z]

Suggestions please. I’m working with a 2004 F150 5.4L . Starter/Bendix faulty, wouldn’t engage flywheel . Replaced starter with oem everything checks out up to relay giving me a click sound. No sound or click from starter. Check battery voltage. It is good checked connections. It’s good checked started relay with my multimeter it is good. All connections are correct and good and clean no corrosion but again turn key over and I only get a click from the relay passenger side panel.

[@golpherboy13]

Brian I have an 03 expedition, replaced the battery, the alternator, starter, fuel pump, and recently the fuse box as I had crank no start and fuel pump relay was burnt. I'm still getting an issue where the starter spins when I try starting the truck and sometimes It takes 2 times to start. Could it be the crank position sensor? I also have another issue where I have a misfire in cylinder #1 that comes and goes. Was off for over a week and came back for like 2 minutes on start up and went away again. Spark plug is clean, no coolant, no milky oil, no over heating, doubt it's a head gasket. Replaced plugs and coils recently. Getting p0301 and p0316. Swapped coils and Injectors and it still came back. Don't know what it could be. Truck runs amazing super smooth, no jerking, no crazy misfire or weird noises, plenty of power when giving it gas. Been well maintained aswell.