Ford Focus Front Hub / Wheel Bearing Replacement (other vehicles too) 2000 - 2011

[@hardlymovingpro]

If interested, made another wheel bearing replacement video performed on a Ford Fusion: kzbin.info/www/bejne/e5LTg4x5YsuGbsk

[@snewcomer6831]

So I finished this jo be and now my ABS brake and traction control light are on, and the car reads C1233 and C1234 the front wheel speed sensor inputs are missing? I defienitly put the abs sensors back in? Any input?

[@hardlymovingpro]

Could be a internal brake in the wires

[@jonhansen2967]

Thanks for a great video. I will be replacing both of these on my car and your video made it look relatively easy, as long as I follow the right steps.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Wishing you success!

[@MattNyrhinen]

This helped more than any other forum and video. Thank you

[@hardlymovingpro]

You bet!

[@knockywigglesworth1909]

Rent the hub tamer tool from parts store! Just need a magic trick to remove snap ring on rust belt car!😅 Smart & helpful video! Like your thinking!!

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks for your critique!

[@darrylcouser4534]

Thank you for giving me the greatest child I could ever have, " THANK YOU VERY MUCH " 😊

[@hardlymovingpro]

No problem 😊

[@jeremyshawley5119]

You absolutely saved my life you're the only one with a good video that shows you how to get to bearing out and in keep making videos and I'll keep watching

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks for your comment and support! We'll keep making videos worthwhile watching!

[@knockywigglesworth1909]

Smart procedure without a press. Thanks

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks! Here's a hybrid tool kit I made not needing a impact gun: kzbin.info/www/bejne/Z4q7q5-tpaaVmrM

[@craigsmithx]

Extremely thorough and helpful video, thank you.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Glad you like it and thanks for your comment! Please subscribe to support our channel and to get updates on new videos!

[@joyfuljeff9128]

Awesome video I like how you showed it was compressed is other videos did not. Thanks ✝️

[@hardlymovingpro]

Glad you liked it!

[@zigman1976]

FYI you can buy the whole steering knuckle with the bearing and hub already installed. High end like MOOG will be like $300 per side and lower priced loaded knuckles should be about $150 per side.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks for sharing. That's an alternative that auto parts supplies are now giving.

[@matthewreichlin4993]

Yeah, I found one on eBay for 66 bucks. Surely not the best quality but the car is already got 150,000 mi on it. Seems likely I can get another 30 out of that hub or more, and if not, I can always replace it again. A machine shop was 75 bucks just to press the bearing in which is certainly reasonable. But they couldn't even tell me that they could get it in and out same day, so using my motorcycle to take down to the shop or getting a ride, and then waiting around for a day or two, versus take it off and put it on for 66 bucks total, kind of a no-brainer. But I appreciate videos like this for the part I am going to do.

[@reesmaan8650]

Dude your the best quick simple straight to the point.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks ... we do try to keep it short, simple and to the point. Don't want to waste your time. To support our channel, give us a thumbs up and to get notifications of new videos, please subscribe.

[@SHAWN-EVILSINS]

Best video on KZbin on replacing a wheel bearing awesome!👍👍

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks ... appreciate your comment!

[@blackmafia142]

Excellent....your video was amazing bro 😎 step by step

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks ... glad you found it useful!

[@CurlyGurley]

Great video. I just got a set of tools from Harbor freight called a MADDOX 21 piece wheel bearing adaptor kit to do the job. Looks alot like what you were using cost $120. I am almost there and struggling with the ball joint and saw your video and like your method better. Thanks for such good instructions i'b 67 years old and you CAN teach and old dog new tricks.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Hey good for you Jon! Just a word of advice ... use a powered impact tool for pressing in and out the bearings. Doing it with manual tools is tough.

[@larryfine4498]

How'd the kit work out? I have a bearing job coming up and may visit HF.

[@DIYVariety]

Great job i enjoyed it alot, looking forward to your next one.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks!

[@SrColon309]

excellent 👌 work friend

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks!

[@neilbuehner1239]

amazing video..straight forward and to the point

[@hardlymovingpro]

Glad you found it useful!

[@RYANSCHULTE98]

Thanks Buddy! I'm about to do a 2012 focus hub, bearing and CV AXLE. I smacked the driver side a few months ago and the car shakes at 55 thru 70 (CV AXLE?) I figure it wouldn't hurt to replace hub and bearing also, all that vibration is not good! Again, thanks for filling in alot of the gaps others left out. Especially the bearing remove and replace!

[@hardlymovingpro]

You're welcome and good luck with the repair! Here's another link to a video where the bearing / hub repair procedure is similar: kzbin.info/www/bejne/e5LTg4x5YsuGbsk

[@AndRey-rj4db]

U make it look so easy

[@hardlymovingpro]

If you've done as many times that I have, it does (most of the time) getseasier. The key to getting out and pressing in bearings is a high torque impact gun like the Milwaukee I used.

[@bearwinky]

I agree with mike winter good job on this video thanks easy to understand. Was able to show my wife what needed to be done on our car

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks for your post and your support!

[@Steve0885]

Last step... always torque the axle nut with a torque wrench

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks for sharing!

[@4loboazul]

Este video me ayudó mucho.

[@BenSpoolin]

Great video man

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks for your comment and your support!

[@TheTruth27536]

Thank you SO MUCH for this video. I had new bearings installed and I really think the shop I paid for the install messed up my passengers side bearing. It prematurely went bad. I will be replacing both myself with Timken bearings as soon as time permits.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks for your comment and sorry to learn about your bad bearing installation experience. I have a link to another bearing replacement job at the 6:21 minute mark in this video if you're interested.

[@gigglesanns]

very helpful Thanks

[@hardlymovingpro]

No problem.

[@mikewinter8719]

Watched many videos of this process on you tube, this by far is the best and most simple to understand. Thank you. I have just purchased a new NS Front bearing and hub for my Ford Focus C-max 2005 but the Bearing already comes attached to the hub? Is this Standard? I assume i need to remove the bearing from the new hub first so i can then fit the bearing and then hub into the old knuckle?

[@hardlymovingpro]

Mike, Thanks for your positive comment. You probably have a version of the Focus where the bearing is not pressed into the steering knuckle ... that is, the hub and bearing is bolted to the knuckle. From a maintenance perspective, these are easier to replace. See my video below on an example on how to replace it: kzbin.info/www/bejne/eKiplpWher2Kmqc

[@mikewinter8719]

Great, Thanks for the response, i took a look at your video but it wasn't quite the same as my car. This video here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/iJzFiKOPmqeeh9U shows exactly what i have been delivered and almost identical Hub/Bearing & Knuckle. He seems to press the entire bearing and hub into the knuckle all at once, are you familiar with this method?

[@hardlymovingpro]

Saw the video. Yes, different design...maybe European. On most FWD with a snap ring, you can't remove the bearing from the other side of the snap ring because there's a lip on the steering knuckle to prevent the bearing from coming out. This guy took the entire knuckle off with the wheel hub attached and then pressed both the bearing and hub out together. Also, the end of the CV axle wasn't threaded ... that the axle was joined with the wheel hub via a bolt, not a nut.

[@daweez60]

Are you kidding me? I go out and spend $150 on a 20 ton hydraulic shop press and find this video a couple days after? That method seems so much easier! Wish I found this video earlier.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Well, there have been some occasions where the bearing was in so tight that I had to remove the knuckle and have the bearing pressed out with a shop press. But in most situations, I can press the bearings out with my portable wheel bearing press tool kit. But you do need a decent powered impact tool to turn the press tool screw.

[@daweez60]

@@hardlymovingpro I just used the link you supplied to by the portable set. Thank you!

[@hardlymovingpro]

@@daweez60 My pleasure and good luck!

[@97JoMiller]

I'm doing this job right now and the bearing and hub are so bad that even a 20 ton press isn't getting them out. I seriously doubt that this method would do the job. It makes me envious of people who are this lucky for an easy job :-)

[@shellysdopevids6988]

How do you get so lucky that the hub just falls out? both of mine seized to the axle and I’m having a hard time pulling them even with the slide hammer. It gets to the point my hand starts to hurt.

[@hardlymovingpro]

The bearings were completely shot.

[@EJ-497]

A quick question, I have a 2018 Focus ST, if I were to remove the hub with a slide hammer, do I have to replace anything? Or would I be able to put it back on? I say that because I want to replace my wheel bolts and anyone who's attempted the task on newer focus' have all had to do some risky shit to get it to work and I'm trying to find a safer way to do it without paying a shit load of money for a shop to do it.

[@hardlymovingpro]

IMHO it's more convenient to get a new bearing and hub kit. You're not saving a lot of $$$'s by trying to reuse a possible worn hub.

[@EJ-497]

@@hardlymovingpro Thank you for the response. I'm able to find REAR hub kits, but I can't seem to find any fronts, what am I looking for specifically for the fronts that is different?

[@piecetoyou8285]

Does this have a magnetic ring , wont the car have an issue if i don`t know how to pair it to the cars computer, I have a ford focus 5 door hatch, 1.6 tdci 2011 that needs a replacement on the drivers front side

[@hardlymovingpro]

No magnetic ring for this car from my recollection.

[@porkchop10]

Love watching these, but I'll be lazy and just pay the $150 for the whole knuckle on mine lol

[@hardlymovingpro]

Understand.

[@piecetoyou8285]

Hi mate, I was told tighten the centre nut up to torque then ease back quarter of a turn` don`t know how true the info was that i was given, But he told me it stops the bearing being over tight which will where very quickly, Also, I know you used a new nut, but I was told I can`t use the centre nut twice as something to do with stretching of thread to the inside of the nut, so my concern would be using the centre nut to carry on pressing in the hub needs force and would this effect the torque setting` as in the torque would be correct but the nut would end up being too far down the thread before the torque wrench clicks, Could any of the statement be true or is it just old garage nonsense ,

[@hardlymovingpro]

The "back off quarter turn" is for old style non sealed bearings that can be removed, cleaned, repacked with new grease and reinstalled. The sealed bearings pressed in and recessed into the wheel hubs on average need to be torqued back on at around 180 lbs. No problem reusing the CV nut.

[@bulbin]

Do you need to do a wheel alignment after removing the knuckle from the strut? I'm about to replace the whole knuckle and from what I can tell a alignment is needed after that.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Good question. It depends on the vehicle and how tight the knuckle is fitted with the strut. On Toyota's, the steering wheel stays centered with the road regardless of a strut disconnect.

[@bulbin]

@@hardlymovingpro I have a 2007 Ford Focus MK2 if that helps to give an answer. :)

[@theeddies]

Hey, thanks for the video. I just did a similar video on a Lexus but used a press. I plan to buy a puller for the other side. I am curious which model gun is your Milwaukee? It seemed to have plenty of power to pull those bearings. I plan to buy one and want to make sure I get one with enough force to do this job in future. Thanks again, exactly what I was looking for.

[@hardlymovingpro]

It was my first Milwaukee tool that I bought over 6 years ago. Wearing out ... doesn't have the same amount of torque when new but got my money's worth out of it. Think it's the M18 2663-20 model. Recently purchased a replacement that produces over 1,400 lbs of torque and is brushless. It's the M18 Fuel 2767-20 (it's heavy and a bit bulky) and it will take off ANY nut or bolt! If you're not careful, they will shear off bolts in a matter of seconds. These are not cheap tools but you can abuse the heck out of them. I bought it for offsite work with no a/c outlet ... like going to the salvage yard to get parts. As I said, they're not cheap. Here's a nice example of a starter kit for sale on Amazon... check out the customer comments/review:amzn.to/2TnAiVJ

[@theeddies]

@@hardlymovingpro Hey thanks for the response. I was thinking of going with the mid torque (600 ft/lbs) 1/2' version as it is a bit smaller/lighter. It has a bit more torque than your original gun, so I am thinking it should turn those double bearings out and remove the 200 lb axle nut as well, like yours did. The high torque seems a bit much for my use, most of my work is with old motorcycles so I want to get something that is more versatile and smaller. If I decide to order through Amazon I will use your link to go there, that way you still get the referral fee, I am an Ama associate as well so I know how it works. Have you tried the mid torque? Best! Eddie

[@sulaimanokhade7825]

I really wish you mentioned the tool sizes. Very important

[@hardlymovingpro]

Video should be used as a visual guide to be used in conjunction with a vehicle specific repair manual.

[@Havocme7]

I was trying to do the lower ball joint on my wife's 2005 Ford Focus. After a while of my amateur work on it, I think I need to pull the knuckle off to get better access to the lower control arm. Is the knuckle able to be removed without disrupting the bearings? If so, how would I remove the center nut without an impact gun and without putting the wheel back on, as that is no longer feasible due to the lower ball joint and tie rod being detached from the knuckle already.

[@hardlymovingpro]

From my recollection the lower ball joint is riveted to the control arm so I would replace the control arm with the ball joint as one unit. The ball joint stud is bolted to the steering knuckle. Remove the bolt and then use a punch and hammer and separate from the control arm. You don't need to remove the knuckle.

[@Havocme7]

The lower ball joint has been detached from the knuckle, the knuckle is just in the way of drilling out the rivets and working on the some more. There is a $125.00 price difference between a ball joint and the whole control arm out here, so I was trying to save some money. The control arm wants to stay raised up, even though its only attached by the bushings(?) at the "base of the triangle" portion of the arm. Removing the knuckle will allow more access to the rivets and possibly increase my success in working on them, but if removing the knuckle will displace the bearings, I want no part in that.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Check the pricing on rockauto.com, ebay or amazon for control arm and ball joint set. From what I see they are around $50-$60 on rockauto for a 2005 ford focus. Otherwise you have to remove the control arm and put it in a vice to grind down and punch out the rivets. Then pry the ball joint out of the control arm. Or just get a whole new control arm with ball joint.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Some of the control arm and ball joint sets are as low as $29.

[@Havocme7]

I was able to get the ball joint out. Thanks for the replies.

[@scottsanders7546]

Where did you get the adapter you used for both sides of the hub when pressing the bearing out. Awesome video for sure.

[@hardlymovingpro]

I provided a link to the adapter in the "Show More" area of this video.

[@stevenmcc2119]

Harbor freight or amazon

[@seraphicrecon]

Slide hammer press, you can buy the whole assembly have it replaced in minutes....

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks for sharing!

[@udokafestus5433]

Please can you list me the tools you used to fix this wheel bearing. Thanks

[@hardlymovingpro]

It's all in the "Show More" section within this video's title.

[@frankmontez6853]

How long does it take you to do this ?

[@hardlymovingpro]

Depends on your tools and skill level. I can do each side under 1 hr.

[@godvsevolutionmythgodvsevo1038]

Whats the torque specs for the front wheel bearing spindle nut ?

[@hardlymovingpro]

173 Foot LBS

[@godvsevolutionmythgodvsevo1038]

@@hardlymovingpro Ok thank you

[@cornykrahn6620]

Do you not have to grease the bearings?

[@hardlymovingpro]

Nope. They're pre greased and require no further lubrication after installation

[@snewcomer6831]

where did you get the press kit?

[@hardlymovingpro]

I provided a link to a kit in the show more section of this video.

[@jamesbonham9094]

Yes, Your so smooth/U ever lose your temper?

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks ... Got frustrated ... Not angry

[@AbhaySingh-fv1dz]

It seems you missed out putting in the snap ring to the inside collar.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks for your comment. The backside of the steering knuckle has an internal lip that prevents the bearing from getting pushed further back. After the bearing has been seated against that lip, the snap ring is inserted in front of the knuckle to prevent the bearing from moving forward.

no abs sensor?

[@hardlymovingpro]

Nope ... not on this car ... but if it did have, just disconnect it.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Unfortunately, neither do repair manuals.

[@bobbydbuilder2873]

Why not press the hub in the whole way?

[@hardlymovingpro]

If you can.

[@goochfitness26]

I wish people would do this shit without a fucking impact drill not everybody has that shit I’m sitting here day 2 stuck on this fucker because nobody seems to do shit without a damn drill

[@hardlymovingpro]

Here's a video where I don't use a impact gun: kzbin.info/www/bejne/Z4q7q5-tpaaVmrM

[@goochfitness26]

@@hardlymovingpro thank you imma watch it. It’s been a pain in my ass 😂😂

[@goochfitness26]

@@hardlymovingpro I should’ve been more specific. When I typed up my original comment I was just really pissed off so wasn’t thinking clearly. I’m taking my wheel bearing assembly off the issue I’m having is my bolts that keep the assembly attached to the car just aren’t coming out. Rusted to all hell because they haven’t had work done in years. I got my car from my girlfriends family friend and I know for a fact they haven’t done any wheel bearing stuff to it. I’ve had issues with the rusty bolts before but the one is just not coming at all. Than the T50 bolt that keeps it attached to the control arm is stripped so I can’t get it to spin out at all. So I was wondering if you had any tips other than WD-40 to get it to pop off I only have my socket set and some other tools but no impact guns because I’m only 24 and have no money 😂

[@hardlymovingpro]

Plan B. Go to the salvage yard and get a non rusty control arm with the hub attached. Then remove the old control arm with the old hub.

[@tomascarrion1183]

Why wont my shock go back on this easy?

[@hardlymovingpro]

I'm assuming you're referring to the strut fork? If so, pry the fork open a little with a metal punch and slide it back on.

[@tomascarrion1183]

@@hardlymovingpro I got it back together already but the problem was the sterring knuckle didnt lower as far as yours did. I had to pry the hell out of it and beat it back in with a sledge hammer.

[@NickBEADG]

I hate when videos don't list the tool sizes.