Ford GT40 289 Race project, Ford C6FE heads, 10th cut, Up the bowl ratio!

[@rolandotillit2867]

I agree with DV that's the no-go zone, @9:40 bowl blend and chamber work, the dark dull spots on the bowl on the cylinder wall side, and right above the valve job, that'll help the swirl pick up a bit.

[@rolandotillit2867]

@2:18 look at the chamber, the light reflection to the right of the plug, you see the reflection aims right at where the dyechem is splattering in the chamber, that tells me, that part of the chamber is guiding air over the plug, and the air that's coming from the center of the cylinder in the port is crossing that lateral airflow. You can see the line of dyechem on the valve seat leave a nice thick streak that ends in the plug. Some touchup on the chamber near the plug will fix that thick splatter you see on the bore.

[@servediocylinderheads]

@@rolandotillit2867 Stay tuned! And good eye.

[@mikkokuorttinen3113]

Great results Charles! Thinking about the pluses and minuses of flows. What is the chance that the flow measured at a specific lift(let's say 0.35 for example) opens the valve always the same amount each time you measure it after another cut?

[@servediocylinderheads]

@@mikkokuorttinen3113 My valve opener is set up with a dial indicator so it is quite accurate. Thanks

[@dirtwagon1507]

Please educate me. Why is your dyechem good, or bad, or better? What are you looking for in the spray?

[@servediocylinderheads]

Finer and more spread out the better I feel.

[@rolandotillit2867]

The dyechem represents the fuel, it's basically showing you how fuel flows through the port. You want well atomized fuel that's distributed evenly in the chamber to have the best combustion efficiency. The finer and more spread out the pattern, the better the fuel atomization, the more puddling and splattering the worse the fuel atomization.

[@daleanderson7629]

Could you start to sneak back 5 degrees at a time (to absolutely minimize cc’s increase) towards the no go zone @ >40thou lift only the point area rule breaks down due to shrouding. That low roof cylinder wall is what I assume is keeping the dychem so far left. Even maybe creating high treasure pushing the short side left as well.

[@servediocylinderheads]

@@daleanderson7629 Stay tuned area ruling coming up.

[@PCUser-m4u]

Wouldn't it be worthwhile to pick up a sparkplug like what will be used now that you are looking to optimize the splatter on the bore? Seems like the plug is playing enough of a role that the difference in diameter between the sensor you are using and a real plug would matter.

[@servediocylinderheads]

@@PCUser-m4u You would think. I just haven't. Thanks

[@garykarenmcgruther6386]

Charles, You thought about buying a spark plug that goes to that head? I'm wondering if that big nub is causing the big puddle in the bore? I would fiddle on where the electrode strap seats too in relation to the flow pattern. Besides that? I'm learning as you post each video. What do you think about these heads (OG GT40 Heads) to 3 and 4 bar new style GT40 and GT40P heads?

[@Alaska_Engineer]

These are really rare vintage heads and run about $2500 a set when you can find them. The E7, III, & IIII heads are far better and cheaper.

[@servediocylinderheads]

@@garykarenmcgruther6386 I was able to get 3 bar and 4 bar gt40 heads to about 245 cfm if I remember right. These have slightly bigger intake port and a bigger exhaust port.

[@servediocylinderheads]

@@Alaska_Engineer I would not disagree with that statement.

[@servediocylinderheads]

Best I have done on E7's was about 238 cfm. Thanks