Ford Mustang / F150 / Transit 250 3.7L V6 Water Pump Replacement

This video details the steps involved in replacing the Water Pump and Water Pump Gasket on a 2012 Ford Mustang V6. This specific Water Pump is also used on the 2011 - 2014 Ford F150. A Chain Strap Wrench would be helpful in removing the nuts off of the Pump Pulley otherwise no special tools are required to perform this repair. Level of difficulty is moderate.
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Parts and Specialty Tools:
Motorcraft PW575 Water Pump Kit (Motorcraft is an OEM provider for Ford. Comes with new 3 flange pulley and hose):
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GMB 125-3280 OE Replacement Water Pump with Gasket (4 bolt flange)
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Permatex 22058 Dielectric Tune-Up Grease:
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Permatex 81160 High-Temp Red RTV Silicone Gasket:
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Mountain RM6 Chrome Metric Box Wrench Set
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Mountain MTNRM1214 Ratcheting Double Box Flex Wrench, 12x14mm
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M12 Fuel 3/8" Ratchet (Bare Tool)
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[@johnnyblak7575]

Tip: If you don't have a chain strap to hold the pulley while you remove the bolts the old belt is a good way to hold on to it. Place it around the pulley and cinch it tight with one hand and use the other to loosen the bolts. Thanks for the great video!

[@hardlymovingpro]

Yea ... you can get away with doing that.

[@davidacosta5464]

Or break the bolts lose b4 u remove the belt

[@hardlymovingpro]

Not a bad idea.

[@tawnorton]

Just wanted to say thanks. Because of the pandemic going on I haven't been able to work. The water pump on my 2013 ford f150 went out and is the same as here. Your video saved my family money allowing me to do it my self. Your instructions were perfect. Thank you from me and my family...

[@hardlymovingpro]

You're welcome and glad it worked out for you!

[@simbanugz2906]

Thanks I just used your video to replace my mustang water pump.. Seriously with your video and hand tools it took me all of 30 min and thats counting letting the har warm up get air out of the system and topping off fluid. Hope you have a great day

[@hardlymovingpro]

Glad it helped! Not a difficult job.

[@AManning77]

I followed this video and my Mustang has never run so good. Thank you for this

[@hardlymovingpro]

Good for you and thanks for sharing!

[@LittleSlim78]

I’m following you step by step bud. Thanks so much for your directions. Damn. You make simple. I’m not a mechanic but what they would charge me is outrageous down here. Thanks again. I really appreciate you. 👍🏻

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks!

[@LittleSlim78]

@@hardlymovingpro No thank you sir. You saved me a bunch.

[@scottbrown283]

Thank you! Best video I've come across on changing these, and I watched a few. Keep up the good work

[@hardlymovingpro]

You bet! Thanks!

[@chemicalspore]

nice use of the angle grinder, awesome quick how to vid. Straight to the point.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks. It was right angle drill with wire brush attachment. BTW ... Don't use sand paper!

[@chemicalspore]

No way, sand paper a baad idea lol

[@juliansalcedo1394]

I want to thank you for thus video ..you really make us think the easiest way to fix that

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks for your comment. Yes ... I try to find the easiest way of fix'en things.

[@mikesmultimedia]

Success! I successfully changed the water pump last night. your video provided the guidance I needed to get started, and to push through a procedure I have not done on my car. The vehicle I was working on is a 2018 Ford transit 250 V6 3.7L engine. Because the only day I was able to work on it would be last night, the water pump I ordered online that is coming in tomorrow will have to be returned. I ended up buying a Duralast brand from the autozone for the autozone for around $70 including tax. The replacement water pump came with two O rings and a Pulley (no bolts). The space working between the radiator and the water pump and manifold was very narrow and took most of the time using standard ratchet that I had. Most of the time I would use the 1/4 inch ratchet so that I can feel the torque and threading of the bolts which are very small for this job. I did order the Milwaukee m 12 3/8" ratchet tool but it is coming in today and unfortunately I wasn't able to use last night which would have saved me so much time because the bolts are rather long and needed to be threaded using the fingers which is nearly impossible due to the amount of amount of slickness working in the area And the length of the bolt's. I applied to RTV and dialectic grease as you indicated above, I was able to track the areas where to apply them and when using your video. I did use a large cement mixing Pan from home depot to catch the the dripping coolant coolant as I removed the parts, it worked perfectly so I didn't make a mess in the area that I was working in. There was a very rigid small plastic tube running from the coolant reservoir to the top of the radiator that crack during the procedure it was very brittle and I'll have to replace that, I simply just clogged up the ends and didn't seem very vital in the meanwhile to finish the water pump change out.. I used a floor fan to begin cooling down the engine area I would be working in because I had to immediately start working on it right when I got to the area where I will be working on the vehicle. Lastly, I recorded the procedure procedure on my phone but it may take me some while to edit it was very difficult to do wearing rubber gloves, but I think it would be helpful for people who are actually working on a Ford transit. Thanks again for posting your video, I would not have started it without having at least an overview video such as yours to get the job done. When I post my video I'll comment with the link. As far as the Milwaukee 3/8 inch ratchet tool that I'm expected in today, I will probably keep it because from what I see it is a very vital component if I'm going forward with future mechanical work to my car. It also would have saved me so much time and activation being able to thread thread each of the bolts bolts before talking them down using the motorized tool. Even so the length length of the ratchet was difficult to match because of the tight space between the radiator and the bolt head sometimes the small extensions I had were too long which prevented clear access to the bolts.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Congratulations and thanks for sharing your repair experience with our viewers!

[@mikesmultimedia]

The water Pump installed using your video as a guide is still working fine. No leaks or strange sounds. No issues with adding the RTV just as you demonstrated.

[@MsJonscott]

This last month I had to replace my tires$650, buy a new AC for my house $8000, tags for the cars, and the hoa quarterly was due..... being able to fix this myself was awesome. I just swapped out my 2017 mustang water pump. You saved me a bundle thanks!

[@hardlymovingpro]

Glad it worked out for you! Every $ counts! Spread the word on our channel by wearing a Hardlymoving Productions tee shirt!

[@AngelPR515]

Thank you bro!!!! You helped me a whole lot. Much appreciated!

[@hardlymovingpro]

My pleasure and thanks for your post!

[@mikewypasek8855]

I know zero about cars so thank you this was very educational. I did once change a water pump on a very early ‘90s Sonoma..with help :). Please clarify-this is a 3.7 engine, and the water pump is external to the engine ...I have the 2017 Mustang with the 37. Thank you.

[@hardlymovingpro]

I looked at the 2017 V6 3.7L water pump. It's slightly different than the pump replaced in the video. The replacement procedure, however, should be the same.

[@mikewypasek8855]

Thank you!

[@theecarking]

Best video out of all of them.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks!

[@mitchellrobbins57]

Berry helpful and honest the only video out here for the 3.7 and honestly it looks like you are doing it on a mustang as well but I may be wrong, mine just went yesterday and so now I have to figure out what’s going on but I honestly think it’s the gasket between the thermostat housing and the block cause they way it was just getting projected out of the car

[@hardlymovingpro]

It's a Mustang. Yes ... Could be a bad gasket.

[@GoodJobScott]

Saved me 800 dollars. Thanks!

[@hardlymovingpro]

Good for you!

[@countryboy1231803]

Great video. My water pump was leaking from my 3.7 and it was coming from pipe at the bottom connected to water pump. Removed water pump and the oring was shredded from hangup so replaced oring and used a very small amount permatex around it to ensure seal. At this point water pump gasket and oring are sealed we'll see if she leaks

[@hardlymovingpro]

Good deal!

[@alexv6620]

I wanted to do it myself on my 2016 mustang. But i was to worried about getting it wrong and causing more damage. 😕 great video, saved for future reference.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks!

[@mikesmultimedia]

Every procedure I try begins with the idea that I am basically going to be disabling my vehicle (on purpose) by replacing the parts. If it is your only vehicle, then the worry is high. That is why I research and watch these types of videos first until I can see that the procedure falls within my capabilities. You also have to plan the time you and your vehicle will be down during the repair. Get tools, parts, extras all ready so any unexpected issues can be dealt with. For this procedure (changing the water pump) my ratchet sockets with handle and any extensions, because of the limited space between the radiator and water pump bolts, was very tricky to loosen (without stripping bolt heads) and to tighten (without cross threading the initial turns) of each of the bolts. Quality 1/4 inch sockets (which I barely had) just made it. Also, you have to apply the sockets squarely over these little bolts. If you tried to loosen/tighten them at a slight angle, the risk of stripping the bolt heads is increased. So, that was one of my worries taking off, and reapply the new parts. One other issues is breaking a nearby component unexpectedly knocked when removing the larger parts (like this little plastic tube) which I was able to rig fixed until I can replace it.

[@hardlymovingpro]

True on all points but better to have tried and failed then never having tried at all. All part of the learning process that eventually makes you good at what you do.

[@jamesfarris3487]

I have a 2011 Ford Mustang 3.7 V6 with over 200,000 miles. I've done a radiator flush and replaced the thermostat. So far no problems.

[@hardlymovingpro]

No water pump problems?

[@jamesfarris3487]

@@hardlymovingpro Nope. Engine runs perfect. I can compare the engine's reliability with a Honda or Toyota. I do the usual maintenance. I drive it hard sometimes, get about 400 miles from a full tank of gas on the highway. Love my 3.7 Mustang!

[@hardlymovingpro]

Good deal!

[@atb1325]

This is an awesome video, many thanks! The part where you just take the four bolts off the thermostat housing and leave the hoses on is such a time saver. A lot less coolant loss too. Changed mine in about an hour with a beer break included. Dielectric grease and some Permatex is the way to go, just like you said. New coolant tank hose with the check valve is needed also.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Good job! You verified it's a easy repair!

[@atb1325]

Yes Sir! Easiest water pump I ever changed in my life. Thanks again for the great tutorial!

[@hardlymovingpro]

@@atb1325 And probably the dealership would have charged you around $400 + to replace it.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Wow ... I'd like to see the b.s. repair estimate.

[@atb1325]

@ Vaase Do it yourself man, it is easy. Save your money Bro! This tutorial vid is spot on. Thanks again HMP!

[@frankiev-tech4630]

Thanks for the instructions and good tip with the thermostat housing! I found this video by luck but my suggestion to your video title is to add Mustang and other 3.7 liter, this engine is also the same for a 2018 Transit 250...that will help your viewership.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks much ... Good to know!

[@mikesmultimedia]

I too have a rattling water pump and will have to replace it. I have a 2018 Ford transit 250 and from what I see it looks identical and the procedure is pretty straightforward I still have to watch it a few more times before I feel confident enough to go ahead and do it I just hope that the rattling and the water pump will survive at least a week before I can get a routine chance to change it out and order the part. How long does a rattling water pump actually last?

[@frankiev-tech4630]

@@mikesmultimedia All I can say is...Do it ASAP! Don't get it to the point to cause damage to your engine!

[@hardlymovingpro]

Agreed!

[@mgnooon5940]

Thank you for a great video, I have a question, at end of the video there is a squashed sound do you know what is it and where coming from and how to fix? because I have that sound recently I don’t know exactly what is it but its closer to water pump but i’m not sure because everything running well accept the annoying sound. thank you

[@hardlymovingpro]

It's probably air pockets getting filled up with coolant or pushed out threw to the reservoir.

[@aboodyalwitcher3429]

Thank you proo

[@hardlymovingpro]

No problem ... thx!

[@moisesalevon7883]

Good help

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks!

[@sandyshoremann7524]

Thanks for this video. professional looking job and to the point - though I would be more likely to put a new O-ring instead of red permatex over it. I'm looking at a 2014 Mustang with a 6 speed manual with 70K miles on it, and I wanted to know if the WP was serviceable. Looks like it is. I guess in the transverse engines it's a PITA. Probably more room in the F-150 than in the mustang nose - but no ladder required :) - thanks again for doing this! - Sandy

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks for your comments and post!

[@luisruiz-yc2pm]

Don’t forget to get a new radiator overflow hose with a check valve, if not the factory house is going to keep breaking the water pump.

[@jeffreycicero6685]

Hi I'm interested about your comment, why is it necessary to replace that overflow hose and check valve? Im doing the job soon and I'll order those additional parts if needed.

[@hardlymovingpro]

A bad check valve will result in excess pressure that doesn't get relieved will make the cooling system find a weak point to leak. A new reservoir cap would with a low pressure relief valve would also be a good idea.

[@luigi_h470]

After reinstall do you have to wait for rtv to cure or can you start it right away? I ask because my water pumped leaked again from the bottom of the pump

[@hardlymovingpro]

I would say around 1 hours cure time ... there's different curing times based on the RTV type you buy. The engine block pump contact surfaces must be residue free and clean. I always use a rotary wire brush for cleaning. Don't use sand paper.

[@MTXSHO9732vV8SHO]

Great Video.. The two mechanic services that I use wanted $300 and $400 respectively for the Labor Charges... That Money will be spent on something else (or invested in the Stock Market). Thanks Again.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Right on! Not a difficult repair.

[@madeinbuffalo2003]

Do you think this video would work for install of a water pump for a 1965 Ford Mustang V8 302 automatic with alternator and after market air conditioning?

[@hardlymovingpro]

Sorry ... very doubtful that it will. I'd bet the 65' has a clutch fan or just a fan attached to the pump. Although they're both Mustangs by label, the 1965 is a completely different car that's over 50 years old. Otherwise, the removal and installation of the pump is not difficult.

[@The147tacammo]

Man i bought the rock auto version but my water pump still leaks what gives its leaking from lower right side of the water pump

[@hardlymovingpro]

Rock auto has a good warranty program. They'll let you return the part at their shipping expense. You can also trade up for a different brand water pump. If you're going to do it again, make sure you coat with RTV and clean the contact surfaces with a wire brush.

[@AngelVargas-bd4le]

Is the waterpump in the link the right one? On amazon it says it doesn't fit my 2012 Mustang. Also thanks for the video!

[@hardlymovingpro]

Nope. Don't know how the link messed up or I messed up. Anyway, the Ford replacement comes with a new pulley which is a 3 bolt flange setup. If your car is a 4 or 3 bolt flange, don't think that'll make a difference since you'll be getting a new pulley with the pump. If you have a 4 bolt flange and only want the pump and gasket with nothing else, I'd recommend you go with the GMB. I updated the product links in the video's text area.

[@mikegriff8372]

Thank you for this video. Mine is leaking where that metal housing meets the plastic pipe, at the top of the engine. I assume the o-ring is bad in there. Really doesn't look that hard with your video. I may try it this weekend.

[@hardlymovingpro]

You are correct. Really not that difficult. Thanks for your post!

[@mikegriff8372]

@@hardlymovingpro One more thing is that a common place for a v6 Mustang to leak from. I have heard horror stories about the water pumps, but no one seems to know of my problem before. I pressure tested it and that is where it came from.

[@hardlymovingpro]

@@mikegriff8372 IMHO ... don't think the pumps go bad but rather the steel gasket with the rubber coating around its inner lip. You could possibly just get a new gasket and re-seal with RTV for good measure. Also recommend you get a new O ring if you're going to reseal. To ensure a good O ring seal, you can experiment by applying rtv BEHIND the seal so that when you push the pump on, it's pushing against the rtv. That should give you a good all around seal. Bad or worn water pumps make bearing noise and sometimes you can see the pump shaft wobble.

[@hardlymovingpro]

@@mikegriff8372 Also check that there's no leakage from the pump's weep hole.

[@SuperSonico-zt8ev]

Should i wait for RTV to get a lil hard or i can just tighten the pump at once

[@hardlymovingpro]

You should tighten while the RTV is wet to let it spread into areas the gasket may not have a strong seal. Then you can wait around 1/2 hour to let it dry. I usually don't wait.

[@user-jo1ml9eb6q]

Nice video, do you know where to get the coolant? Looks like it's the same color from mine, just wanna add same coolant not flush it again then add different one.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Check out this video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/laeyg3RpjtSif8k There's no automotive standard with respect to coolant but the auto makers will try to make you think there is to rip you off.

[@user-jo1ml9eb6q]

@@hardlymovingpro thanks for the info. So I can just add the coolant as long as they have the same formula?

[@mikesmultimedia]

I didn't like the gloves I wore during this procedure, what kind of rubber gloves do most mechanics use for grip, puncture resistance and protection? Thanks

[@hardlymovingpro]

Good question. Cheap 5 and 6 mm gloves tear very easily. Harbor freight sells decent 8 mm. The best is medical grade latex gloves. But in the hot Summer months, all these gloves are worthless since I sweat too much wearing them. I mean perspiration water is streaming out of them and after removal, my skin is all wrinkly. Since I need gloves that breaths, the best gloves I've used is by a company called Pyramex. One of my customers works for them and gave me sample gloves to use. Their industrial grade gloves are the best I've come across. They can be thrown in the washing machine and reused. The elastic cloth and rubber palm material don't fall apart like the cheapo Costco work gloves.

[@landoncarter6452]

Is it best to replace the aluminum water pump bolts? I know they are replaced on some cars like BMWs.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Bolts are steels from my recollection. If 10 mm i wouldn't replace.

[@milossolc6114]

Thanks so much for this amazing video which will save me a ton of money over here in Europe!! 1 question: How much coolant do I need to have on hand for the refill using this method (not predraining)? Also, after refilling I just close the cap, start the car and it will take care of the air in the system itself?? Thanks so much for answering!

[@hardlymovingpro]

Glad you found the video useful! All you need is a gallon to make up for the lost coolant. Leave the cap off, let the car reach normal operating temperature and continue adding coolant until the air pockets are no longer coming out. Let the car cool down, check coolant level and add more coolant if needed.

[@milossolc6114]

@@hardlymovingpro Thank you very much for that answer!

[@robertbell525]

If your car has over 100K on it, may as well take off a lower house and drain as much coolant as you can and put fresh stuff in. It needs it anyway at 150K so do it now

[@hardlymovingpro]

Good idea!

[@Terry1212]

I'm not that familiar with the Ford V6 engines. So this is a 2012 Mustang with a 3.7? Which years had the 3.7 with the water pump behind the timing cover, driven by the timing chain?

[@hardlymovingpro]

Here are the years and models that use this water pump: FORD F-150 2011-2018 FORD MUSTANG 2011-2017 FORD TRANSIT 150 2015-2019 FORD TRANSIT 250 2015-2019 FORD TRANSIT 350 2015-2019

[@liromanz]

Hi great video which coolant did you use or do I have to use the motor craft

[@hardlymovingpro]

Valvoline pink coolant that stated it was Ford compatible.

[@liromanz]

Hardly Moving Productions perfect thank you

[@dons1493]

Always use HOAT coolant! Less corrosive on aluminum. Change at recommended intervals, as coolant will lose it's effectiveness.

[@jamesschloegel]

@Hardly Moving Productions why did you not flush the coolant and put all new stuff in for the new components?

[@hardlymovingpro]

Why flush clean coolant from a car with under 50,000 miles? What other new stuff?

[@jamesschloegel]

@@hardlymovingpro who said anything about 50K miles? I’m doing this to my car atm. Mine has 130K. Guys say online that it’s good to do to protect the new water pump

[@hardlymovingpro]

@@jamesschloegel you asked why I didn't flush. 50k miles.

[@jamesschloegel]

@@hardlymovingpro would you recommend then for my car with 130k?

[@anthontth]

What kind of coolant are you using?

[@dons1493]

It's always best to use HOAT coolant as most engines and radiators are made of aluminum. Less corrosive on aluminum.

[@zoranlovric]

How much coolant is lost during water pump replacement? Is a flush recommended?

[@hardlymovingpro]

I wouldn't flush. Today's coolants use a technology called OAT (Organic Acid Technology) which is a long life product that should last a long time (worked on a 10+ year old Camry with 200K miles and the coolant was still good!). The coolant loose from a water pump job shouldn't be more than a gallon. Walmart is selling vehicle specific coolant for around $13 a gallon made by Valvoline ... cheaper than going to the dealer. Recommend you don't mix that yellow universal coolant with the factory pink coolant.

[@zoranlovric]

@@hardlymovingpro I already ordered a gallon of pre-diluted Motorcraft Orange for $18/gallon. That should be what's in the car. Is the gallon you mentioned is enough for water pump replacement diluted or concentrated?

[@hardlymovingpro]

Diluted.

[@dons1493]

If water pump failed, then I would replace all the coolant. Use HOAT coolant only! HOAT not OAT...

[@fireisfire95]

I've heard from some folks that if the water pump fails on these cyclone duratec engines that it'll leak coolant into the oil and trash the whole engine if it's not caught immediately, is that true?

[@hardlymovingpro]

Not sure ... don't see a path to the engine oil from a failed WP gasket, bearing or bearing seal. There are no oil supply and return passages to this water pump.

[@SenpaiMclovin]

No there two different models of the 3.7 engines and the ones that leak into the oil is the ones found in the suvs, crossovers and some passenger cars these vehicles have a timing chain driven water thats internal and will leak into the oil pan.

[@Dochorahan]

@@SenpaiMclovin That's good to know. Thanks for the info. I have a 3.7 2011 Mustang and was getting scared by all the water pump engine INTERNAL failures.

[@dons1493]

no worries with the mustang v6 engines from 2011-2014...the timing chain doesn't drive the water pump.

[@lonely-lo1153]

Aye broskis just did this myself. Quick tip if not obvious from vid: DO NOT TAKE TIMING SEAL OFF OF COVER. Its the one around the pipe at the bottom and there’s no need to remove it

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks for sharing!

[@alanvaliev5036]

thanks, helped a lot.

[@hardlymovingpro]

You're welcome!

[@jjmack8233]

Great video. Very helpful but I have a question. I saw another video where they took the front of the engine apart to change a water pump that was leaking inside the oil pan. The job changing that water pump was a lot more complicated than yours. The guy said that water pump was the same on Ford 3.5 and 3.7 engines. Is this engine a different engine? I’m interested in buying a Ford Transit 350 but not if the engine has to be torn down to change the water pump. I don’t like the sound of a failed water pump leaking into the oil pan. Thanks for the video.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Sorry. Don't work on Ford vehicles very often to give you accurate information.

[@jjmack8233]

@@hardlymovingpro ... thanks for the reply

[@robertbell525]

Same engine but front wheel drive version has the dreaded internal pump. Rear wheel drive had the external pump. Just look for that large pulley, either 3 or 4 bolts to see what you have. If no pulley, it's internal. Those are supposed to start dripping from a weep hole but if it doesn't and you don't catch it, bye bye engine. External pump like this one is simple. I need to change it on my kid's mustang. Rattling on cold startup. The pulley has play in it.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks for sharing!

[@mikesmultimedia]

I too have a rattling water pump and will have to replace it. I have a 2018 Ford transit 250 and from what I see it looks identical and the procedure is pretty straightforward I still have to watch it a few more times before I feel confident enough to go ahead and do it I just hope that the rattling and the water pump will survive at least a week before I can get a routine chance to change it out and order the part. How long does a rattling water pump actually last? Thanks. I'll Probably won't have to watch another video this video seems to have covered it all.

[@hardlymovingpro]

I wouldn't be driving the car. Pump can go at any time. Had it happen to a customer's car. Had to get it towed.

[@mikesmultimedia]

@@hardlymovingpro i see there are a number of replacements on amazon. Can you find the right one for my 2018 Ford Transit 250 v6 3.7 Liter cargo van. You could set up an affiliate link for your trouble. I just was quoted $60/80's by sutozone for Duralast brand. Not sure if that is a good brand. Thanks.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Go to rockauto.com. All good name brands to choose from.

[@mikesmultimedia]

Thanks, the link in your description looked like it would fit. But my pulley has three holes. The price jumps and doubles just for the 3 holes.

[@mikesmultimedia]

See: OAW F3255 Water Pump w/ 3-Bolt Pulley Flange for Ford 3.5L DOHC Turbo engine and 3.7L Naturally Aspirated www.amazon.com/dp/B09PGMFHLY/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_VYKN5MGGF331Q520JB1M?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

[@Joe-uh6kt]

TSB out for line going from overflow coolant bottle to thermostat assembly. replaces with a check valve in the line to stop air. old line in this vid should replace

[@Joe-uh6kt]

p/n er3z-8276-a

[@hardlymovingpro]

Problem was with a leaking water pump ... not the check valve.

[@Joe-uh6kt]

Hardly Moving Productions yes can be caused by air getting in

[@SILVANOME]

Jt Tt yes you need to do the TSB for the hose. My new water pump leaked after a couple miles. Got the new hose and 2 years later still good as new.

[@clintglenn1035]

how long should it take to replace this water pump

[@hardlymovingpro]

Using the steps outline in this video using powered tools ... less than 1 hour.

[@warrenmartin1607]

Using RTV on rubber o rings and gaskets is a no go. Causes premature rot. Its deteriorating. This reminds me of my first boss. He put RTV ON EVERYTHING.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Not according to the instructions as outlined by the manufacturer of this replacement water pump. Have seen a lot of gasket failures or leaks due to the absence of RTV. Paper element gaskets, over time, absorb the coolant and deteriorates which leads to leaks as well as the 10 mm pump mounting bolts getting loose. A light coating of RTV prevents the absorption. Have also seen metal gaskets with their rubber coated ring lose their sealing properties leading to leaks (GMC 3.5L V6).

[@mikesmultimedia]

I applied the RTV as seen in this video. I also have applied RTV the wrong way on my old 1966 VW bug valve cover gaskets which didn't work at all because the cork based gaskets around the valve covers were best installed dry. I felt confident with the application of RTV (using a smooth level layer). Also tightening the bolts using the star pattern to compress the part equally helps to compress the RTV unilaterally over the existing gasket (hard rubber) and adjacent metal surfaces. Hey, if it leaks, I know how to fix it now. And I'll have my Milwalkee 3/8 inch M12 ready to do the job again with or without RTV. When inspecting my old failed water pump, the problem was the little propeller mechanism developed play along its shaft (very little maybe a 1/2 millimeter or so) leading the rattling noise. I inspect it briefly in my video I hope to post soon for reference later. Note, the 36K warranty expired Jan 2022, now Apr 2022, things start falling apart. Very clever Ford. I expect all other (wear n tear) parts will follow degraded performance soon. Lastly, I think I would have like to replace the water pump pully belt during this process. Seems like an easy preventative maintenance task while your around this part.

[@7h3Chazz]

What are the sizes of the sockets needed to make this repair?

[@hardlymovingpro]

8mm, 10mm & 15mm

[@7h3Chazz]

@@hardlymovingpro thanks :)

[@hardlymovingpro]

No problem!

[@joelarchuleta1814]

8 & 10 mm

[@ivnpnz8184]

Hi Have u ever replaced the black seal behind the water pump? Thanks for ur video is really useful and easy to follow.

[@hardlymovingpro]

If you're asking about the black O ring, a new one comes installed with the new pump.

[@ivnpnz8184]

@@hardlymovingpro oh no I was asking about the one behind the water pump like on the pipe that comes out the block. I found the hard way u are not supposed to take that one out as it seals the timing cover. Thank u for replying

[@hardlymovingpro]

@@ivnpnz8184 Every exposed seal and O ring from taking off the water pump had been replaced.

[@CoreyT223]

Is that fuel resistant RTV or just high temp?

[@hardlymovingpro]

Check the specs for Permatex's various RTV.

[@n9nedeez_kid372]

Did you replace the timing cover gasket? How did you get it out?

[@hardlymovingpro]

What timing cover gasket? Tell me the time mark in the video so I know what you're referring to.

[@n9nedeez_kid372]

2:28. Its the black gasket around the pipe underneath the water pump. It may be called a radius seal. Another video showed that it has to be removed from the other side of the timing cover.

[@hardlymovingpro]

@@n9nedeez_kid372 I see what you mean ... the new w/p with the new recessed O ring that I coated with di-electric grease fits over that pipe. If there's no coolant leakage from that pipe's seal, I see no reason to replace it ... unless you're willing to spend the timing removing the timing chain cover.

[@n9nedeez_kid372]

I wish i wouldve known this yesterday before i messed the seal up trying to pull it out

[@hardlymovingpro]

@@n9nedeez_kid372 Now I understand your dilemma.

[@DIABLO_4_Tester_Sacramento]

What mileage to first replacement?

[@hardlymovingpro]

Around 60,000 miles.

[@jtdecker1]

@@hardlymovingpro me too

[@christophermunoz2568]

Mine too around 60,000 miles I believe it's a common issue on mustangs or that year.

[@stayedsolidtv]

What's the correct water pump part number?

[@hardlymovingpro]

Unless you're buying direct from the dealer, there are multiple parts manufacturers with their on unique part number.

[@stayedsolidtv]

@@hardlymovingpro but they are all 4 bolt I have stock 3 bolt. And my stock wheel won't fit on the 4 bolt

[@hardlymovingpro]

@@stayedsolidtv Using your vin #, find a Ford dealer that sells on-line and you should be able to find the part with the part number.

[@Siafa90]

Wait 24 hours for RTV to cure

[@daniejames2591]

There wasn't any sealant on that seal so why would you put it on. Ford recommend not to put any on because of the unevenness if not Torked to spec. I never used it on any 3.7.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks for your good question. Several reasons why: 1. The replacement water pump (non Ford OEM since the OEM prematurely failed) instructions explicitly state to apply RTV to the front and back of the new gasket. 2. There were indications of coolant seepage coming from the OEM gasket. Applying RTV is added insurance in the event the rubber coating on the new gasket were to break down. 3. "Torquing to Specs" is somewhat meaningless on 10 mm bolts. You'll rarely see professional techs at the shop (unless they're new to it) using a torque wrench on 10 mm or less nuts and bolts. Applying and spreading torque evenly is more important.

[@hectorgutierrez7207]

What’s RTV and where can. I get some

[@hardlymovingpro]

You can buy it at any auto supply store. Dictionary definition: "RTV silicone is a liquid silicone compound that cures at room temperature to form a flexible rubber."

[@tavisseabrooks8524]

On a scale of 1-10 how difficult is this??

[@tavisseabrooks8524]

Also is there anything else i need to replace while replacing the water pump??

[@hardlymovingpro]

From my perspective, a 3.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Depends on the age and mileage. Maybe the belt.

[@1337penguinman]

Not gonna lie, I would have reinstalled the pulley and belt before I put that thermostat housing back on. Also, a couple of dabs of RTV between the water pump gasket and the pump itself would have been plenty just to hold it in place. Plus, those O-rings in the housing really should have all been replaced instead of RTV'd to death like that. Think about the next guy who has to take that apart.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Good points but believe these metal gaskets with the rubber seals don't stay sealed very well. Installation instructions state to coat the rubber with RTV.

[@mxjorgegutierrez5804]

I thought these water pumps were timing chain driven ??

[@hardlymovingpro]

Engine designs differ.

[@carlhansen9512]

I always wondered who would spooge RTV all over an o-ring seal like that, now I know. Totally unnecessary.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Just following the water pump provider's installation instructions. Toyota's aren't required. Honda has started using rtv with their o ring seals.

[@DrummsToolBox]

I wondered the same thing. ALLDATA mentioned nothing of needing RTV.

[@hardlymovingpro]

It's a general guide. The finer details comes from experience.

[@ArodPR]

@@hardlymovingpro LOL

[@lotusman564]

sure is a lot simpler than a 3.5 motor... the pumps are driven by the timing chain. OUCH!!!

[@hardlymovingpro]

I know!

[@FirieonOG]

Not to sure why you would use rtv instead of a new gasket and a new o ring

[@hardlymovingpro]

The pump came with a new metal gasket with a rubber outer seal. The instructions stated to coat the seal with RTV.

[@FirieonOG]

@@hardlymovingpro wierd the motor craft ones don’t do that.

[@MrCliffda3rd]

Remind us to punch Ford in the face for having internal water pump setups in Taurus', Explorers etc.

[@hardlymovingpro]

It is what it is.

[@jastradamus7323]

I don't see the point of rtv gasket

[@hardlymovingpro]

Was in the instructions that came with the new water pump to coat both sides of the new gasket with RTV. But up to you if you don't want to use it.

[@jastradamus7323]

@@hardlymovingpro I know it's better with it I'm sure. In my opinion ford 3.7 water pumps break so much that's why I don't think using rtv is a good idea. You'll have to replace it often

[@hardlymovingpro]

@@jastradamus7323 Actually, I don't think it's their pumps that breakdown but rather their gaskets.

[@jastradamus7323]

@@hardlymovingpro it's starts leaking at the hole at the bottom of the pump though. Wouldnt that be the pump

[@hardlymovingpro]

@@jastradamus7323 That's a pump failure

[@warrenmartin1607]

Never use RTV on a rubber gasket.

[@hardlymovingpro]

I beg to differ.

[@RayStyle.......]

Silicone on gasket bad bad bad idea

[@hardlymovingpro]

It RTV; not silicone. Installed as per the manufacturer's instructions.

[@RayStyle.......]

Ok am not using rhis for that and working well all time ​@@hardlymovingpro

[@jaysampson999]

I hope nobody is learning from this. He used way too much RTV, on those components you dont need any at all. What a hack🤣

[@hardlymovingpro]

I just followed the part provider's directions and I do know that these factory Ford pumps leak at the gasket rubber seal points.

[@dTamerSam]

Too much silicone it’s not a good idea , make it hard to replace it after a while

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks for your input but just following the instructions as stated with the new water pump.

[@mwh82108]

ohh no!! no rtv on these at all ever!

[@hardlymovingpro]

Not according to the instructions that came with the pump.