Ford Mustang Rust Repair

We work on a 1967 Mustang Fender Apron Repair
Episode 586 Autorestomod
We show a repair that can be used on any 1960 1961 1962 1963 1964 1965 Falcon Comet 1965 1966 1967 1968 1969 1970 Mustang 1967 1968 1969 1970 Cougar
[e-mail]
Insta: @autorestomod
www.patreon.com/gasolinemedia
Sponsors:
www.npdlink.com
Insta: @npd_nationalpartsdepot
www.eatondetroitspring.com
Insta: eatondetroitspring
Facebook: / eatondetroitspring
www.rrsusa.com
Insta: @rrs.usa
Facebook RRS USA
00:00 The Fun Stuff
00:30 Discussion about different ways to repair Apron on 1967 Mustang
03:03 Covering the work area on the Ford Mustang
03:41 Setting Center for cutting out the rust damage
05:05 Cutting out the Damage to the Mustang Fender Apron
06:54 Cleaning Rust out of the damaged Area on Mustang
09:50 Using another Patch technique on the Mustang Inner Fender
14:43 Welding in the Patch
18:49 What happened to the dang welds on the Mustang inner Fender
20:03 End of the video on repairing the inner fender on Mustang

[@RealWorldGarage]

This is my whole life with the 64 Comet. Grind, weld, grind, weld, blow through……… repeat

[@AutoRestoMod]

Preach it brother lol.

[@franciscoramos8872]

Great episode guys. I need to do this to my 68 Cougar XR7. I appreciate the welding tips for the round plugs.

[@terremolander5243]

Cool episode.

[@68orangecrate26]

Excellent! I’m doing it!😎

[@AutoRestoMod]

Rock on!

[@robertclymer6948]

Jeff: "On this episode of Auto Resto Mod, We would like to welcome our new sponsor "Harbor Freight" Mig welders! Oh, on second thought, we will keep our Lincoln. lol

[@AutoRestoMod]

Cam is the one with the Titan mig. I still have my old Lincoln. My problem is I'm not sure if it's the welder or the Welder. Lol

[@robertclymer6948]

Good Morning Jeff and Cam! I personally think that the patch turned out pretty well. You could also use a little filler over that area, sand and prime and paint. I realize you want the best job you can do, however unless the car is going to Mecum, good job. Cheers from Motown/Dearborn.

[@AutoRestoMod]

Thanks for the kind words Robert. Sometimes I get a little obsessive about it.

[@mach1driver630]

Jeff, have you ever used Evaporust? It uses a chelantion (Key-Lay-Shun) process to completely remove rust down to a microscopic level, and it’s so safe it can be thrown out like mop water when done. One of the down sides is the cost, so it is much cheaper to buy the concentrate from another supplier and mix it with distilled water yourself. It’s 80% water. Get rid of the big rust chunks then saturate a rag with the chelate and keep the area wet and the rust will go bye-bye. It will take some time when applying it this way, but you will be amazed at the results. Then use something like "Prep & Etch" with a 1:4 (acid to water) mix ratio, wetting the metal for 10-15 minutes, dry toweling it off, then re-scuffing the metal and cleaning with PPG wax and grease remover just before priming. Yes you need to put a primer on there- anything is better than nothing. The wax product you mentioned will melt away when you weld. THEN put your patch over it (with much smaller gaps) and weld away. I hate to say it, but what you currently have is still full of rust with nothing on it for real protection and it will form more rust in very short order. For the concentrate go to the following website- and see how they apply chelant to large surfaces: safestrustremover.com

[@mikel2283]

After binging on Carl's work at 'Make It Kustom' watching Jeff weld here in a good ole' boy fashion is both refreshing and troubling. But there are very few "Carl's" out there and Jeff gets the job done. I might have used a different approach, (hotter but WAY less time on each spot, move around and around etc) but really the end result would probably end up the same. I do worry about all that rust between the layers that were getting welded next to. I'm thinking the porosity was coming from inside the crunch area just outside your cut lines between layers..

[@tomberan1282]

LOL! Two days back I did the same thing, catching a blanket in a brush I was using on my drill

[@AutoRestoMod]

I had seen a guy catch his beard in there and take 3/4 of his beard off his face. That one scared me a little. I wasn't bothered by the blanket though.

[@michaelschubel6330]

After watching this, I attacked my Mustang with this new knowledge. I had been trying to figure out how to fix there rust spots- this confirmed my thoughts! Thanks, guys!

[@brianwaskow5910]

what about all the other rust trapped between the two pieces of metal??

[@danbarber9137]

I highly recommend the Dremel EZ545HP cutting blades for sheet metal, all the other ones I have used burn up in minutes.

[@mustang1970boss]

use rubbing compound on your brush to get rust out of a hard spot

[@kimbarron]

I work with mostly 65/66 Mustangs and as @classicstangbrn8964 said, yes it is true that they do not have this issue like the 67 up cars do, they can get a rust out issue similar to this at times. In my opinion, the reason the 65/66 cars are better on the rust issue is because they use a bit of a different construction in this area. The shock tower does not extend 90° over into the top of the inner fender aprons like the 67 up cars do. The shock towers have a flange around them that is spot welded just to the inside of the aprons. On the flat top side of the fender aprons there is only one joint between the front and rear aprons and it is made in thinner metal. I think that there is a tighter fit in the thinner metal that helps to keep crap out of the joint, which reduces the rust issues. I am guessing that the Ford engineers had some good reasons to do the later cars this way when they redesigned the shock towers to take the width, weight and power of a big block engine.

[@AndySomogyi]

Maybe use dual shield mig? That flux really helps clean a lot of junk out of the weld

[@domfer2540]

I am an amateur, welding by leaving open spaces then coming back, will prevent metal getting hot. Why not put Pr 15 on the metal first.

[@AutoRestoMod]

I have personally found POR15 to be a little tough to Weld through sometimes. Other paints that are a little less thick or easier to burn out but the POR15 is rough.

[@marcbondi8462]

Sometimes, the gas flow is too high and can cause that issue .

[@allend1980]

The biggest problem your having with your welds isn’t the contamination from the rust, but the paint and EDP coating. Rust will normally just blow through. A lot of these so-called “weld through primers” still have to be ground clean along the weld line.

[@derekfetzer6294]

If any one gives you crap, they are just being a dousche, its not a high visibility area, good enough for 90% of us

[@alwayslearning8365]

I had this same problem on my 67 mustang.

[@AutoRestoMod]

Anymore it's pretty common.

[@davidgray3491]

Nice rug Jeff, if I had a rug like that under my car, my wife would shoot me!

[@classicstangbrn8964]

Did I miss the part why you welded over rust?

[@AutoRestoMod]

I did not weld over rust. I ground the area with a wire wheel. These areas form because of the way Ford spot welded the panel. Typically there was space left between the top sheet and the bottom sheet of metal in between where the spots are on those two panels. That's why they rust.

[@thyubernoob]

If your going to this much work I personally would just remove all the rusted material... Jmo

[@barnabyjones5161]

We don't call them Rustangs for nothing.

[@AutoRestoMod]

I'm at an age now where I can see why anything over the age of 50 rusts lol.

[@classicstangbrn8964]

Just about every 67-68 have that problem, never happens on 65-66 and I know why.

[@AutoRestoMod]

Care to enlightness us?

[@chrishorst6993]

Come on people follow them. Click the follow. Button

[@AutoRestoMod]

Yeah, what he said!