Ford Taurus Strut Replacement

[@charlesgregory7523]

Never seen that done before without taking off the axle nut and pulling the axle. Props to you, looks like you did it.

[@willsrestorations]

Yeah he's lucky he didn't damage the CV axle by not removing the spindle nut. This was a half-ass backwards way of doing shit without removing the tie rod end either. How we said that KZbin will teach you how to destroy shit before it teaches you how to fix it

[@dagutie6989]

I watched this yesterday and it helped out a bunch so I had to come back to like and subscribe. Thanks a bunch huge help

[@dudewecanfixit]

We greatly appreciate that! Happy everything went smoothly and we were able to help. Let us know if you have questions about anything.

[@dougstover2440]

Lifesaver, I was stuck, the other videos dont show sub frame drop.

[@dudewecanfixit]

Glad I could help! Please subscribe to our channel.

[@willsrestorations]

Yes they do, The Monroe strut video shows you exactly how to do it and it's not done the way this guy did it, he made this job a nightmare by not removing the spindle nut from the axle he could have damaged it, he also never pulled the tie around off the knuckle.

[@2ndamendment770]

Good Job > Its always appreciated seeing it done !!

[@dudewecanfixit]

Thanks!

[@KJ7JHN]

After the fact would you have rather removed the caliper hub and tie rod? Or would you still have gone with the sub frame bolts?

[@dudewecanfixit]

Sub frame bolts. I don't think the other parts would make a huge difference

[@HowThisDictate]

​@dudewecanfixit they dont i am replacing my cv axles right now and broke the alignment tab off trying to muscle the old strut back on. Subframe will be the only way.

[@dudewecanfixit]

Terrible design. Thanks for sharing the info

[@willsrestorations]

The way this video showed you how to do it was completely wrong like most KZbin videos, you always remove the tie rod end and the brake caliper and the bolt to the axle this will give you all the extra room after dropping the subframe to maneuver the strut into position. I've done at least 50 to 70 of these and I've never taken more than half hour to 45 minutes aside because my process is the proper way and not the hack way of KZbin

[@MrChewy40]

Great video! What phone/cam is that? The clarity is phenomenal!

[@dudewecanfixit]

This was probably filmed on a GoPro hero 6 black

[@disherofpain]

So the new strut with the bolt tight as it can be on the mounting bracket that goes through the alignment tab? Its got play left and right The whole whell hub Playing like as if its a bad hub assembly but looking at it the strut is not being gripped tight enough!!! Wtf!! My only idea is.. I'm gonna take a coke can, cut it down.. Put it inside the bracket like a sheath to make it tighten Any better ideas?

[@dudewecanfixit]

I would bring it to an alignment shop and see if they can figure out what is going on.

[@disherofpain]

@@dudewecanfixit opened the bracket with a pry wedge and filled the gap with an aluminum can. Tightened it back down, wobble gone All I can figure is new strut is somehow maybe a machine error slightly smaller circumference

[@willsrestorations]

It's not supposed to be tight around the bottom of the strut because it's not meant to crush the strut as it contains compressed gas it's just meant to hug it and the pinch bolt will keep it tight and it's bracket.

[@willsrestorations]

​@@disherofpainmaybe you should have used a crushed up Crock pipe too.😂

[@dudewecanfixitshorts]

Thank you so much!

[@henryjohnson1126]

I did not remove the bolt at 1:35 , too much rust. I just smacked the spindle down till it was free.

[@furnfjf7370]

How was it putting the new strut in? I cant get that bolt out either.

[@henryjohnson1126]

@@furnfjf7370 it was tough but I did it. When it comes to the rear of you can’t remove that pinch bolt you’ll need a new spindle.

[@dudewecanfixit]

Dang, the engineers outdid themselves on this one!

[@willsrestorations]

You're supposed to spray it down with rust buster and let that set up for a couple of minutes. And then back it out a little bit and then back in numerous times and eventually it comes out real nice and then replace it with part number AK-87 which is the replacement bolt and nut. And whatever you do don't do it like this guy did because you're supposed to remove the tie rod end which gives you all the flexibility to put it back in​@@furnfjf7370

[@willsrestorations]

​@@dudewecanfixitplease tell me you're kidding, there was nothing wrong with the way engineers set this up it was just the way you took it out and put it back in, next time remove the tie rod end and lower the subframe down and never remove the bolts to them, also remove the spindle nut to the end for the CV axle and that gives you all the room in the world to slide the new strut into the knuckle. I probably did about 50 to 70 of these things and I've never seen it done that way and that's why you were struggling, hopefully if you have to do it again you'll do it the right way

[@ernestedwards6890]

Why were you hitting the shock absorber bolt for, was it to round it for safety or get the bottom in

[@henryjohnson1126]

To make sure the top is set correctly.

[@willsrestorations]

The whole video was half-assed man it should not be followed by any means

[@willsrestorations]

​@@henryjohnson1126You're wrong OHenry. This video was disturbing and completely half-assed backwards

[@henryjohnson1126]

@@willsrestorations preferably you wold just use the jack to push the spindle up, but the way he did it in the video isn't wrong.

[@sjdurhamandmom]

I need me a handy man like this right about now. I got a strut broke and my car marked for tow lol

[@dudewecanfixit]

It's definitely a job! Get it towed to a shop or at least somewhere with concrete to do this job.

[@sjdurhamandmom]

@@dudewecanfixit I am at the junk yard now with a mechanically inclined guy, says the part I need could be $35 here or $85 at autozone, will only cost me a couple hundred after labor. Yay here's to hoping that's all it is

[@dudewecanfixit]

@sjdurhamandmom That's not bad!

[@sjdurhamandmom]

@@dudewecanfixit fixed. A success !! Not bad for everyone just encouraging me to scrap the car instead ...

[@dudewecanfixit]

Awesome, glad you got it fixed!

[@6glenn9]

What year is this car?

[@dudewecanfixit]

I think it's a 2004

[@Angelito0212]

Would you know the size of the hex nut for the shock top bolt. It fell off and cant find the right size for the nut. Thanks in advance

[@dudewecanfixit]

I don't, but you could use the other one and match it at a hardware store

[@dannichols4775]

Any advice, tips, or tricks for a 2009? Struggling with mating the bottom of the strut back into the steering nuckle/spindle. Also was misinformed and instructed leave the ball joint and lower control arm attached. So each side was forced together in an awkward angle and attempted to force on. And that's the point were I entered the picture and had to argue and insist that either the lower ball joint or control arm needed to be separated in order for them to line up true before trying to press them together by using the jack under the control arm. Except it isn't getting past the seam, or ring about 2 inches from the bottom of the strut. I've filed and beveled them, cleaned the edges of the nuckle, applied grease... and the bfh so much that it may be misshapen by now. I'm thinking my only option is to remove both, clean up any burrs, and try to either spread it open or hone out the spindle where the strut goes through. Any pointers or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

[@dudewecanfixit]

I can only assume the 2009 is somewhat different than the one in the video. I was able to unbolt and lower the frame and control arm a couple inches. You will need to do something similar to get it back together.

[@dannichols4775]

@@dudewecanfixit Yes slightly different. 4 studs with nuts on the top mount. Replacement struts were longer. Replacement struts had "cup" on the bottom whereas the stock struts were capped at the bottom. There was a lip about 1 inch up from the bottom of the strut. This caused some fitting issues completely throughout the spindle. Also a veteran mechanic, set and sure of his ways, instructed employees to attempt to put the new strut in without removing the lower ball joint or lower control arms. However, this was not possible because there wasn't enough room for the strut and the spindle to line up true, straight, and flush. Because it was started this way it caused it to continue to want to go on that same way as we attempted to beat it through. It was like trying to drive up out of a rut. Don't matter what you do it's gonna keep flowing that way.

[@dudewecanfixit]

That's very unfortunate, it may also help to try and find an OEM match for those struts since the ones you have seem to be a different design.

[@LJT9393]

Is this pretty much the same with the Taurus X? The wagon style?

[@dudewecanfixit]

Probably, but I cannot say for sure

[@longfeather60]

Which way did the arrow go ?

[@dudewecanfixit]

The arrow?

[@haug0099]

Dont have to loosen subframe. I just used my jack and a piece of wood and jacked the coil upwards enough to pull it out. Barely

[@stevenm247]

What is the model year of this Taurus?

[@dudewecanfixit]

I don't remember

[@Yelnats101]

i cant get my lower strut bolt to drive out. i beat for an hour. any suggestions?

[@dudewecanfixit]

Take the nut off and then try to unscrew the bolt as if it were threaded into the strut

[@Yelnats101]

@@dudewecanfixit my bolt has that lock tab on it. It won’t twist either direction, :/

[@dudewecanfixit]

The bolt may still have some pressure on it. Use a floor jack to lift up on the bottom of the steering knuckle / strut assembly to releive the pressure/weight

[@Yelnats101]

@@dudewecanfixit yeah. no pressure. 5lb sledge wont even move it. i may try and heat it,

[@dudewecanfixit]

That's crazy

[@ginaeckhardt3747]

dude if you can fix it make a video about my 2010 ford taurus its my delivery vehicle and the shop just told me to use the car for parts 270 000 miles and all four controls on the wheels are gone Dont think you can fix this

[@dudewecanfixit]

Oh, geeze! Its wild to think that Ford designed these so poorly that it is cheaper to get a new car than replace a few front end components. I would recommend getting a Toyota if it costs too much to fix.

[@paulm.6437]

Wish I had watched your demonstration, firstly

[@dudewecanfixit]

I hope you get it sorted out

[@freddyleftyou8133]

I replaced mine, but now I have shimmy/vibration under acceleration.

[@dudewecanfixit]

Interesting, did you do both sides?

[@Deehandle11]

it could be your axle. Did you take the axle nut off or drop the sub frame?

[@freddyleftyou8133]

@@dudewecanfixit did both front struts. and now have a broken motor mount. lol

[@johnmichaelgeorge6284]

I replaced both struts and now have a vibration when accelerating too! Ugg.

[@coolpeanuts23]

Love this!

[@billschomburg6853]

I'm surprised you didn't change the sway bar link while you were doing the strut. Otherwise, it's a good video.

[@dudewecanfixit]

I did, its in a separate video. Ford Taurus Stabilizer Replacement

[@billschomburg6853]

@@dudewecanfixit Okay, thanks.

[@willsrestorations]

Correct you always replace the stabilizer link after installing strut assemblies unless the ones that are on the vehicle are fairly new

[@brianlopezgonzalez6680]

Those plastic sway links give me anxiety.

[@dudewecanfixit]

Yeah, terrible idea!

[@willsrestorations]

Replace them with Moog

[@alexiramos1014]

Dude we could fix it thanks

[@dudewecanfixit]

You're welcome!

[@amsolutions247llc3]

That strut thoooo!

[@crimtek]

Part #: 181615 Monroe RoadMatic. Bought some myself but am definitely not doing the subframe lowering to replace them myself. argh.

[@dudewecanfixit]

It is quite a task. Absolutely terrible engineering by Ford.

[@crimtek]

@@dudewecanfixit Ended up returning them and I am gonna buy them at a later date. I got a quote from one of the professional customers that regular in the Advance Auto store I work at, quoted me $120 for both sides. Sounds like a good deal to me.

[@crimtek]

@@dudewecanfixit I got pretty far into the process of replacing them, almost had them off, and then finally realized what was happening with the subframe, and said “hell nah.”

[@dudewecanfixit]

That's a fantastic deal!

[@Jongpang]

Thank you so much!

[@dudewecanfixit]

Thank you!

[@contreposicion]

​@@dudewecanfixitthank you for your great video! Are there a left and right strut for that taurus? Or are both the same? Thank you.

[@dudewecanfixit]

I don't remember, but there's probably a left and a right. Thank you!