How To Perform A Coolant Flush On Your Ford Vehicle

Here is the Gold Coolant I used from Motorcraft-
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000...
This is the only coolant flush chemical I use-
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000...
In this video I go over my method for flushing the cooling system on Ford vehicles. This is a very through way of flushing the system out of debris and scale. Ford Taurus vehicles with a very rusty coolant condition please follow this alternative method-
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[@riverratranger1427]

God bless the man who TELLS YOU WHAT SIZE WRENCH to use! Thank you.

[@brobrob8432]

Just wanted to say thank you, personally. Your vids have helped me so much, being a first time F150 owner. Bought one in bad shape and your vids have been my guide. I appreciate the time you've taken. God bless ya

[@evanoldhoff4904]

How's the bad shape 150 treatin ya 4 years later?

[@chriss1227]

Thanks to you, my wife and kids think I'm a car genius. Much appreciated for all your videos, even the old ones :)

[@kyletidrick3289]

Might not be a genius but you can call yourself a mechanic now

[@beer1fan]

Especially the old ones! I own own a 05 f-150.

[@brandondickie3456]

Sometimes even geniuses must still learn in order to be able to translate their abilities into something that can be understood. So you might have some hidden powers

[@KrishnaSingh-ow1ie]

Your not supposed to use tap water. You supposed to use distill water. Tap water has minerals in,it which can c a use eros

[@codywaters4565]

@@KrishnaSingh-ow1ie Only distilled water is required for use in aluminum radiators. This is a copper radiator, so distilled water is not required. Tap water is acceptable here.

[@nebu7777]

I'm new to ford with a completely destroyed explorer and your videos have really helped me out. Thanks so much for your time and dedication and even service.

[@garyh9039]

We have some pretty hard water in my area, so I didn't use tap water. On my '03, I merely drained the radiator and refilled with distilled water, drove around for 10 minutes with the heater on to insure the heater core got flushed too. Repeated that procedure 6 times, I think it was, until finally it looked like clear water draining into the bucket. Then I added 2 gallons of Ford Gold coolant to top it off. Checked with a specific gravity meter, it shows 59%. At only 88,470 miles, the original coolant still looked clean but it was 17 years old at the time. I didn't use any kind of coolant flush chemical. That was 3 years ago almost to the day. I don't drive it that much. Maybe 1500 miles between annual oil changes. Been subscribed to your channel a couple years now.

[@MrEdgardotcom]

"2 gallons" 50/50 or concentrated? Like how many gallons of distilled u used?

[@taitswitzer2750]

hose water in my area will set-up like concrete...distilled water is best...agree 100%

[@garyh9039]

@@MrEdgardotcom 2 Gallons of concentrated Ford Gold coolant. The system holds 17 quarts, so 8 quarts of concentrate is close to a 50/50 mixture.

[@edhall8911]

I use distilled water too. Can’t really do a complete drain without opening the plugs on the engine block.

[@MrEdgardotcom]

@@edhall8911 I cut off the old thermostat with an angle grinder to remove the spring and the middle parts, water will flow without restrictions

[@yamahabradley]

For Northern climates I would check the final water/antifreeze mixture to make sure it can withstand -40 below.

[@alextran8188]

@Richard Thomas wear warm clothes

[@trudeaumustgo1920]

@Richard Thomas some of us work 8 hours a day in -40 to -50

[@chriss1227]

Just did this on a 2011 expedition. I used Motorcraft VC-3B coolant. It took me about 3 hours. The hose I attached to the radiator was a 3/8" and was about 6 feet in length. The petcock is on the passenger side by the bottom right hand corner of the radiator fan. You can get to it without removing anything else, but it's a tight squeeze for bigger dudes. I used a flathead screwdriver to loosen it as the petcock on my vehicle was round and grooved so a wrench wouldn't work. If you use a stubby flathead you can unscrew it like a normal screw as there is a large groove cut out in the center.

[@122ffsdd]

If you can access the coolant drain plugs in your block it's a good idea to open those up when you are flushing the system with your garden hose.

[@Shanonmcnab576]

Yeah but for the DIYer you don't need to. You'll just be introducing more air into the system. You have to be careful too because sometimes it's damn near impossible to get air out deep down in the block without having to take into the garage. Just saying. I myself don't recommend the Do it yourselfer to do that but not my vehicle just remember there is that chance of it happening. If it happens your looking at a new flush but garages hook up a suction tool with shut off valve connected to a air compressor to suck all that air out from the block and will use another line that is connected with a different shut off valve for the feeding system to put new coolant in. Most DIY people don't have that.

[@WizzRacing]

If you wan to scrub that recovery tank clean. You can use crushed ice and it will scrub it clean as new. I did mine this summer as it was really bad brown. And it was the hardest one to do as it had 4 dividers in it but 30-40 mins of shaking it was like new.

[@FordTechMakuloco]

+Claude “Reviews4U” Rains Nice tip!!!!!!!!!!!

[@kchilz32]

Claude Rains what makes the coolant in the expansion tank look all gunk/sludged like?

[@MasterChief-sl9ro]

Its rust residue from the engine block. Carrier back by the coolant....

[@robbiesantos7677]

kchilz32 motorcraft products

[@daveharmon8674]

Claude Rains I spray painted mine gloss white looks Great no need for the ice.

[@lostinmyspace4910]

If anyone is worried about iron in their hard water coming from an untreated outside the house spigot, go and buy some cheap distilled water from the grocery store. But I think you can also get some softened water from inside your house and not worry about sediment or iron.

[@BeckVMH]

I'm at the coast where hard water is an issue and the outside hose isn't run through the water softener. I've seen elsewhere about using distilled water. Too, he's running a lot of water through there and can the same be accomplished with gallon jugs of distilled water?

[@surg9029]

When I fill after the flush I add straight concentrated coolant of the amount that will be 60% of the listed coolant volume in the owners manual and fill the rest with distilled water. When a flush is done you never get all of the flush water out and if you add 50/50 or 60/40 to the water retained in the block and heater core it will dilute it and you won’t have enough freeze and additive protection.

[@robertclymer6948]

I thought is was taboo to use regular water in the cooling system? Most vids say distilled water, but then again, you could not get a good power flush then. And thanks Surg for the 60/40 to compensate for the water in the block. Good reminder sir. CHeers from Motown!

[@rhinos1397]

One question. The water at the end of this, still inside the engine block ,is NOT distilled water. Distilled water is recommended when adding antifreeze when it isn't 50% already diluted. Wouldn't it be better to add distilled water in the reservoir to flush out remaining undistilled water before adding the last step antifreeze? Or is it such a small amount it doesn't matter? **** Looks like this was covered in another post.

[@marcustucker8301]

Excellent video. Exactly what we did at Ford dealership also. I would usually explain this same process to people, now I can just refer them to you. 👍

[@3dr14ng4]

I've watched your previous video and it seems that the tap-water method is not applicable to the new Yellow-coolant spec of Motorcraft coolant. I think I'll just do a fill then drain method using lots of distilled water to be sure. Great video.

[@jonkeefer6865]

same. i am picking up a 12 fusion w/68k original miles. i want the new stuff instead of a mix of old and new.

[@ninbendoyt3203]

Please explain the fill/drain method.

[@Arturo-im1nh]

@@ninbendoyt3203 open radiator drain, gets about 1 gallon out usually. About 2 gallons still left in the system. Fill reservoir with distilled water and let engine run or drive around so the water mixes with the old coolant and then drain again. Repeat until water comes out clear and fill with appropriate concentration of coolant to get at least a 50/50 mix. No garden hose used since the tap water has chemicals that will cause damage to cooling system, so only distilled water is used.

[@DeezNuts-jk8fq]

​@@Arturo-im1nh ^ this is the best way of doing it imo

[@IceAgeSquirrel2008]

$189 for a coolant flush on my 2007 F150 at the local Ford dealership. Is that a fair price? I'm thinking about it.

[@FordTechMakuloco]

Oh yes I charge more than that.

[@IceAgeSquirrel2008]

@@FordTechMakuloco Thank you! I am grateful for all of your videos.

[@Ben_Lorentz]

It's less than most places charge. I just do diy drain and fills every 2-3 years and get a full flush from a shop every 3rd fill.

[@jamestwieg4113]

Have question similiar to one asked before but was not answered. Followed video procedure to change coolant today on 2006 F150 5.4 liter with coolant capacity 20.9 quarts. Removed cap on coolant bottle on cold engine and drained coolant thru hose attached to drain plug to get it all. Removed draincock at end. Only got about 6 quarts measured in 2 gallon milk bottles then stopped draining. Added radiator flush to coolant bottle then added water and as expected it only took the same amount of about 6 qts to fill it. Ran engine and drove with heater on high for about 20 minutes to clean coolant system. Allowed to cool some then drained again and again only got about 6-7 qts. Flushed with hose and drained with stopcock out at idle, as directed for several minutes till water coming out was clear. Refilled with water and drove again with heater on high for about 10 minutes. Allowed to cool some and drained again with draincock out. Only got 6-7 qts out again. Flushed at idle for a few minutes with hose, draincock out and engine running to get foam out of bottle til water coming out of stopcock was very clear. Filled with distilled water. Drove a bit then drained 1 more time with cover off of coolant bottle and only got 6-7 qts out. Added new full strength antifreeze and it only took 6-7 qts. All the time I was driving had lots of heat with heater on high and temp guage reading normal regular temp right in the middle. So if I had plain water in the system then and only could add 6-7 qts of full strength antifreeze, how do I achieve a 50/50 mix when there is 6-7 qts of antifreeze and about 14 qts of water in the coolant system?

[@joelung9070]

I just have to say thank you very much... Your videos are very helpful. I have been subscribed to your channel ever since I purchased my '05 4.6 l V8 rear wheel drive F-150. You're the first place I go to find information on what I need to do for my vehicle and I cannot thank you enough. I filed your procedure exactly! The only thing I did different was after I ran the vehicle flushing it with water to get the cleaning solution out and let the system drain once clear of the cleaning solution. With the cap off the reservoir tank and the drain plug from the radiator completely removed. I started the vehicle and ran it 10 to 15 seconds then shut it off. Then another half gallon to 3/4 gallon of clear water drained out. Then I filled it with cooling solution. Hopefully I didn't mess anything up. I've used your channel to do a complete rotor, caliper, brakes and brake system flush. Complete coolant system flush. New front Monroe coil spring and strut assemblies replacement. Oil change, throttle body cleaning, Starter replacement. Rear pinion seal replacement and differential fluid. Power steering system fluid replacement. New spark plug replacement. Front wheel hub assemblies replacement. Got the truck body mint condition for only $1250.00. 201,000 miles. Runs like a top! Thank you again so very much, so informative and professionally done. God bless you

[@rexdelosangeles8074]

I have the exact same truck and I am having trouble with the heater.

[@joelung9070]

@@rexdelosangeles8074 what is your heater doing?

[@maureendewland5611]

Brian thanks so much for all you videos I been a Ford owner for 40 years Its nice to click your videos to see how you do it nice slow well explained. You been my go to guy for all my Ford and Mercury cars and Trucks thanks

[@Huskerdarren]

Great video. I've always been leery to flush my own radiator, but I can do this after watching you do it. Thanks!

[@mezican4]

First time watching this video and I like the professionalism. I'll definitely follow this video when I do my coolant flush next week.

[@MrBob58o]

Love your channel. It’s been extremely helpful while servicing my 10-12 Fusion with no automotive skills.

[@senioraces]

I have a couple of questions; 1. what is your opinion on the use of distilled or ionized water, to flush, as opposed to the potable water that you used here? 2. in the case of a neglected cooling system,( ie.2003 f150 5.4l, VIN L, 273000 kms, never unflushed), what is your opinion on leaving the cleaning additive in the engine for a three day heavy duty cleaning, do you recommend it or not, and why?

[@CaliAndrew18]

So no reply yet? Good ??s I want do this right!

[@nametaken24]

@@CaliAndrew18 use distilled to flush

[@rodolfojuarez6113]

Just THANK YOU. That says it all. If you ever come to Oaxaca México let me know, it will be my pleasure to share a meal. The best videos, by far.

[@user-vx5ky1jf8c]

I really appreciate every video you do on ford, legit man you saved me so much time and money.

[@derekhensel1108]

Won't this method put hard tap water in your cooling system. I was always told to use distilled water to avoid minerals in the coolant that could damage the turbos and water pump seals

[@jiffry58]

You’re correct. Says right on the motor craft coolant bottle to mix with distilled water.

[@billgateskilledmyuncle23]

I use RO water.

[@chiefer8368]

How precise do you have to be when mixing the 100% coolant with the water that you estimate that is in the block??

[@jpmulli]

So now that Ford has switched to the yellow...do Ford dealerships use distilled water in the flush? It doesn't seem like it would be possible due to the amount of water being used. If they don't, and as you pointed out the block would be holding a lot of tap water when the yellow is introduced. Seems wrong.

[@sojministries337]

7 years later is this still the same? Now we use distilled water right? So how do we keep the flush going since we can’t use hose?

[@NtulkSlzX]

I would just use hose water as you flush and then when you’re finally ready to put the coolant you wanna keep you distilled water

[@donwilson7166]

During the flush with the engine running, wont the thermostat close because of cooling down and when you cut the engine off to drain, there be some semi rusty water left in the water jacket of the engine?

[@MrPrios1]

When I cleaned out my tank, removed the tank, flushed it out, added a very small rag wrapped around a powerful magnet. With another magnet I used it to control and scrub the tank inside of the tank almost 100 percent clean. It was better than any brush and blower.

[@chicanopowers4938]

MrPrios1 now that is some dedication to maintenance👍🏽

[@Juh02078]

Can you link theose magnets

[@MrPrios1]

@@Juh02078 Any good speaker or electric toothbrush magnets. When i destroy broken equipment I keep useful parts.

[@mcrider333]

so if you know the cooling system holds 5.4 gallons and there is left over water in the block after flushing why do you need to approximate the percentage of antifreeze to water when you refill? why not just fill with 2.7 gallons of anti freeze and then top off until full with water. then you would have the perfect 2:1 mix. am I missing something? thanks. doing mine this weekend so I hope I do it correctly.

[@fhiggenbottom]

Great video! Thanks. But is there any risk to using tap water to refill the cooling system with unknown acidity and contaminants instead of using gallon jugs of distilled water purchased from the store to refill?

[@FordTechMakuloco]

You could use either but you must know your water source if you are going to be using tap water.

[@user-kk3dq3xw9g]

Thank you for the video I only have one question. My owners manual to my 2010 Mustang says to only used distilled water. I did a coolant flush at about 45000 miles by draining the radiator, filling will clear distilled water, running engine to open thermostat then run engine a few minutes and repeated this process until the water draining out is clear. Then refilled with Motorcraft gold coolant. Is this method ok to use? Using a garden hose the water isn't distilled. Thank you kindly.

[@Shonuff42080]

That's a Diesel he's flushing

[@bahopik]

@@Shonuff42080 it's not a diesel, it's a gasser F-150

[@Shonuff42080]

@@bahopik yeah I see know thanks

[@jasmwhite1]

The Process from about 6:30 on... Is it good to be pouring cold water in and through a hot coolant system? That makes me nervous about rapid expansion/contraction issues.

[@ponyxpress3]

I’d rather have a dirty system then cracked heads. It’s happened to me before.

[@lateralus411]

Engine ticking and knocking is giving me flashbacks of my last truck. So glad to have the 5.0L now, so much smoother.

[@SlayerHawkX]

My truck has 308000 miles and has had cam phaser knock since 65k..lmao..still runs good ..drives me nuts tho.

[@agm5148]

Shouldn't you use distilled water instead of plain water from the garden hose to flush the system? I noticed that you have been spilling a lot of water with coolant. Are you collecting all this liquid or is it going down the storm drain?

[@FordTechMakuloco]

If you have a source for pressurized distilled water yes but I don't know anyone who does. What is best is after the garden hose flush is to fill with distilled water and coolant mix. Even better if you are that worried after the flush you can fill the system with distilled water run until hot to get flow and then drain it out once again this way most if not all of the remaining water left in the block is distilled. If your area has really hard water I would not use a garden hose no but here in Chicago tap water is ok. The coolant is collected in a pan and when flushing the remaining coolant water mix goes down the drain in a separator tank at the dealership.

[@agm5148]

Thank you.

[@justinp8946]

A gm it's better, yes but I flush it usually with a Garden hose and put new coolant and distilled water

[@3vReanimated]

My water has calcium and all sorts of bs in it, your engine has and is exposed to minerals and other bs in the block as well. I too thought it would hurt the engine, but does not make a difference distilled or crappy rough water.

[@jagoss45]

How much does the cooling system hold? Is it's all water in there after the flush what is the best way to figure the 50/50 mix? Do you just take the colorant capacity and divide it in half and assume that's what's left in there for water? Do you recommend using the premixed coolant or the straight and dilute it? My 2008 has a leaky rad that I'm gonna have to replace (for the second time in 3 yrs). I got an aftermarket last time because I was stuck at work. But I ordered the motorcraft one this time around.

[@alejandrocaraveo267]

Love your vids! I admire people with passion when doing their work the proper way. I have always done all my maintenance and repairs on all my vehicles so I know that it gets done right every time. My 19' F-250 6.7 diesel has 48k miles and want do do a complete coolant change of the primary and secondary cooling systems. Is it possible for you to do a video on that procedure? Keep up the good work👍

[@tonyhall9764]

That’s what I’ve been looking for as well. Would be really helpful to have a video of that

[@enep3831]

I went to 3 ford dealer parts here in Oregon, and ask for the coolant flush chemical, they don't carry that one, in fact they use another aftermarket brand: 2 dealers use MOC RADIATOR FLUSH KIT (cooling system fast flush and cooling system treatment). and the 3rd one use JUSTICE BROS JB (radiator cleaner and cooling system protector). Those cannot be found on the aftermarket parts store, (Advance, Autozone, Baxter, O'reilly) only at one dealer (more than $40). I know i can find them online, but how to choose?

[@becumfreeky]

Could I follow the procedure you’ve outlined in this video. Then at the end pull out the drain plugs on the block to get the rest of the clean water out then refill with 50/50?

[@austenhatch3285]

Same boat…already bought 50/50. I was just gonna maybe go exchange one of my 4 bottles for undiluted and call that about good? What’d you end up doing?

[@Acordionista509]

Do you recommend we take out the plug on the block too or is it something that's optional? Thank you 😊

[@Acordionista509]

@@nastysoda9212 why's that?

[@jobehoffmeister7122]

Just one question, where will it be safe to let water tainted with coolant drain to? Most of us dont have a garage with a drain catch and a seperatoe.

[@_Boobz]

Most part stores and auto shops will take your old fluids and recycle them for you. You never want to dump any fluids onto the ground where it can taint the environment

[@austenhatch3285]

Just go buy a bin at the dollar store let it drain into that then funnel it into empty coolant bottles take it to auto zone…and return it…jk recycle it

[@rangerwwc72]

Is this recommended on a 2012 F-150 5.0 8cyl? Some say that too much "dirty" water gets left behind. Also making it hard to judge how much concentrated coolant to use.

[@brianw.520]

How do you ensure all tap water is completely drained out of the engine before adding coolant? Would any residual lead to mineral deposits in the cooling system? I realize overall you are probably removing way more sediment than not doing this way, just wanted to ask

[@laszynandriy]

Exactly what I wanted to know

[@johncannon3251]

To get right amount of coolant after a flush, look up how much the system holds. Then add 1/2 that amount of 100% antifreeze then top it off with water.

[@nathonsmithson3024]

you never get all the water out. doing it your way will only give you protection down to about 0 degrees

[@thighcurlcontest]

@@nathonsmithson3024 What he's saying is that it doesn't matter how much water is already in the system. If you put the correct amount of concentrate in and then fill it to the line you'll have a 50/50 mix. For example, my owner's manual says 21.2 quarts for engine coolant capacity. That means that I need 10.6 quarts of undiluted coolant and 10.6 quarts of water for a 50/50 mix. If there are still 3 quarts trapped in the system, I can add my 10.6 quarts of coolant and then fill to the line with water without measuring - since the capacity is 21.2 quarts and there's already 13.6 quarts of fluid in there, it'll only let me add 7.6 quarts more water before I hit the fill line. If there are still 5 quarts trapped in the system, I add my 10.6 quarts of coolant and then fill up to the line with water and it will only take 5.6 more quarts of water before I hit the fill line.

[@nathonsmithson3024]

@@thighcurlcontest ok. while correct in most cases certain variables apply to this theory. some vehicals develope large air pockets. even a flush doesn't remove all coolant all the time. aftermarket setups like rads and oil cooler deletes and engine swaps debunk this theory including finding the factory capacity to the coolant system. best advice is get a 7 dollar tester. premix to your desired temperature range and adjust accordingly. to liitle antifreeze is verry seldom a problem. most of the time i see engines that heat up too slowly in winter and have poor heating/defrost due to to much coolant. you may have to a half gallon and add coolant or water to that half gallon and retop off once or twice. if your way off you may drain a gallon and add a gallon of coolant or water to offset. dont guess. just test and do it correct. could be the difference in a cracked block or more than likely defrost that clears your windshield in 5 minutes as apposed to 20 minutes. think about it. spend an extra 30 minutes testing and adjusting when filling or an extra 15 minutes waiting on your vehical to warm up every day through the winter. keep in mind your engine is healthier and more fuel efficient at operating temperature . the sooner you get it there the better. on a diesel in the winter this is crucial.

[@mkgreen9750]

If you have residue in the expansion tank, remove it any way possible rather than trying to flush it through the system because mostly all of the residue will end up in the heater core and/or cores. Like Expedition Eddie Bauer rear hvac.

[@nickmarkis8134]

Isn’t it bad for the engine to be hot with out water in there basically I think I would try to put the drain plug back in with the engine still running and the hose still on in the holding tank before turning off the vehicle

[@heavyt5489]

I did a nuline deepclean but when I filled it up with coolant the old water recirculated with the gunk back into the reservoir. Using your method I could finally clean it all out. Thankyou kind sir

[@jagoss45]

I want to thanks you for this video. I had to replace the radiator in my F150 due to a small leak. So I watched your flush process and did it yesterday. All went ok and I have a new motor craft RAD22 and filled it up with the Zerex G05 coolant. I learned a lot that I never knew regarding engine coolant in the process. I also learned that the 5.4 holds approx 2 gal and the rad is approx 1 gal. I have a 2010 Taurus to do next as it's at the 6 yr recommended interval. Thanks again.

[@KL4life]

Bro! Where have you been all my life! 😆 🤣 😂

[@BeeDee-p9j]

Brian, thank you for all you do. I wish every mechanic had your professionalism! I had the dealer replace the coolant on my 18 Exp Sport at 37k miles from orange to yellow. However, the coolant was still orange, so I decided to do a flush. I followed this video but did not use distilled water for the final flush. I topped off with a 50/50 mix (distilled) and have since drained and replaced a few quarts with concentrate to bring the levels up. I estimate the system had 4-5 quarts of tap water in it of 13 required. Do I need to worry about the tap water, or should I flush the system again using distilled water? I'll likely change the coolant in another 30k miles. I also noticed the inlet tube collapses when the system cools. I've read this is normal; can you confirm?

[@av8rgrip]

I watched your video on the new Yellow 200000 mile antifreeze. you mention that it reacts with tap water and we should use distilled water. After watching this video, we are using tap water to flush, but some amount of that water is left in the block when refilling. Is this gonna be an issue?

[@mbuck34]

Would you recommend this same procedure for a 2011 F250 6.7L? Thanks!

[@mikedavis5784]

Wow! I must be old school. First, I always measure the drained coolant that comes out, so I know how much concentrate to add back in later. Second, I flush with distilled water only, not with tap water that will remain in the system after you drain. Finally, after doing the rest of the procedure similar to what you have shown, and the drained fluid looks clear, I refill with the same measured amount of new concentrate that was initially removed to provide a 50/50 system mixture and then top off with 50/50 distilled/coolant. This way I don't introduce all the minerals and chemicals that are in tap water. Only distilled and coolant for my truck!!

[@chicanopowers4938]

Mike Davis , in Arizona we got super hard water, so using anything but distilled water is asking for cooling system failure in the summer time.

[@mianrowan]

Is there any way to not leave any water in the system I bought all the 5050 stuff but with water left in there I'm gonna have a less than ideal mixture

[@timgiles9413]

How I do it; 1st, add a bottle of your favorite coolant cleaner. I use Prestone. Take it for a 15-minute drive, turn the temp knob to Hot. Put the truck on ramps. Allow the engine to cool completely. With the engine COLD, remove the Degas cap, Locate and loosen (do not remove yet) the engine block drain plug on the driver's left side just below the rear freeze plug (there are 2 but the starter blocks the r/s one) Remove the radiator drain plug and catch the old coolant. Remove the engine block drain plug and catch the old coolant. Remove both heater hoses at the block side and try to catch the old coolant. With a garden hose, flush the heater core "both ways" until the water runs clear. Reconnect heater hoses. Flush the system with a garden hose leaving the radiator and engine block drain open until the water runs clear. "Flush until the water is clear". Once drained, Close the radiator and engine block drains. Fill the coolant system with the garden hose and allow it to purge air for 10 minutes. Turn the heater temp to HOT then Start the engine and bring it to operating temperature. Allow the truck to cool completely. Repeat the rinse again (heater hoses are optional) Close both drain plugs and Fill with 60/40 ratio coolant and distilled water. Start the engine and add the coolant mixture as needed. Check for any leaks. Check coolant levels when the engine is cold for a few days. And that's the way I get a clean system and great heat from my heater (because I know that my heater core is clean) and I know that it's done right. If I can do it, you can do it :)

[@josephmcmonagle5901]

I like that way, but I'll bet it takes a while?

[@tp5401]

Does this process no longer apply with the new p-oat coolant as you said it reacts with tap water. So all that tap water left on there would react with the new coolant. How could you flush with distilled water?

[@Army4Runner]

Can you perform this procedure with the new yellow P-OAT coolant? Or, do you need to flush with distilled water since the yellow reacts harshly to tap water?

[@TheKingfish86]

Yes I would like to see that too.

[@mygt8a4re]

@Fish03 I'm worried about this as well. While I love this channel I also realize this video is extremely old! I'm going to use distilled water to be safe. It certainly can't hurt!

[@gous5649]

Just a question was wondering if anyone can answer... I've heard that distilled water is to be used in the system for a flush. Would hose water still be OK, or would it harm the engine? 🤔 Thx

[@397coney7]

Yes, it’s fine to use garden hose water for the flush. The distilled water is real inexpensive, just send 4-5 gallons of it through, after the flush. Then just fill it up.

[@TheOnlySgtRock]

So you state to only use Distilled water in one of your other videos (New Ford Yellow coolant) but here you leave tap water inside the block to mix with the new coolant? Can you do an updated video on how you handle this?

[@FordTechMakuloco]

You simply flush it again at the end with a few jugs of distilled.

[@duffbiker]

Would you still use tap water if you were flushing on a newer ford to switch from the orange coolant to Yellow? wouldn't it contaminate the system for when its refilled with distilled and yellow?

[@Zslowzr1]

Is there any issue with pouring in cold water like this on a hot engine? Also, wouldn't you want to remove the thermostat when doing this? I'm assuming the water won't get up to operating temperature when doing this and therefore it wont cycle through the radiator and back into the black with the thermostat still there...

[@bob_frazier]

This deserved an answer. I believe you are exactly correct.

[@alphadog9093]

Thanks for the video. I am trying to figure out how much coolant to order for my 2001 F150 SuperCrrew. My owners manual states 25-25.5 quarts capacity (6.25 Gal). So if I mix at a ration of 60% Coolant/40% water...then I would need 3.75 Gal's of coolant??? but there is water trapped in the system.....so I dont know how much to add. Do you know how much water is trapped in the system after flushing? Do you know how much coolant I should purchase? Thanks!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[@thighcurlcontest]

I know this comment is 3 years late, but maybe this will help someone else. Don't overthink it; you need 3.75 gallons of straight, undiluted coolant (25 quarts x 60% = 15 quarts or 3.75 gallons). It doesn't matter how much water is trapped in the system - just add your 15 quarts and then fill to the line with water and you'll be dead on.

[@terryharvey4811]

OEMS RECOMMEND 50-50 MIX RESULTING IN A - 34 DEGREE FREEZE POINT. THUS 25.5 /2 = 12.75 QUARTS THEN TOP OUT WITH WATER.

[@lostinmyspace4910]

When adding coolant after the water drains out of the radiator, there's still water in the motor block. How can you accurately determine how much concentrated coolant to add to the whole system and get the correct proportions? You can't possibly drain the entire block before adding the collant?

[@michaelnicholson6248]

Hey, great video. Very informative and I will be flushing my coolant within the next few days. One thing that I’m not all that clear on, is after I flush the system with water how can I just fill it with 50/50? Im not very good at figuring percentages of fluids. I drive a 2014 Ford F-150 XL, 3.7 engine, flex fuel.

[@mikeymax12]

Great video! As a pro just curious how much time do you bill for and how long does the job usually take. Keep your videos coming. So good.

[@PKwhl]

Really appreciate your videos. Can you please do a Video on Coolant Flush with Thermostat change on A 2008 Ford Edge? Soon. Thanks

[@cesarml3299]

I am going to be flushing my 2014 escape 2.0l. It is calling for orange coolant. I looked on the spec sheet and it says ti either use coolant vc-3-b. OR vc-3-d. Both are concentrated coolants. Aside from the higher price of one what is the difference? Thanks

[@portlandghettos4479]

So to get rid of air pockets... Leave cap off turn car on, run car, turn heat on full blast make sure fan kicks on then put cap on and turn car off??

[@beboboymann3823]

I drain the system hot so the thermostat is open. Then I pull the thermostats for an open system. After engine cools I fill with distilled water and run it without thermostat for about ten minutes. Then I drain and replace thermostat. I pour in full strength antifreeze half of system capacity. Keeping in mind I flushed with distilled water whatever water is left in the block is good for the mix. I top off with more distilled water. Distilled water is cheap at Walmart.

[@looklogan]

Is tap water OK to use in your radiator? I heard only use distilled water.

[@star978]

Tap water is ok for the flush but when you do your 50/50 coolant mix use distilled water.

[@HarryRacer18]

Tom Thompson every auto shop uses tap water and a lot uses tap water for the mix too. It's not that big of a deal unless your water system has a lot of hard water.

[@farleymusclewhite411]

"When adding engine coolant, use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and engine coolant. " FORD MOTOR COMPANY SERVICE CD 2003

[@William81309]

Tom Thompson well if you want to be technical it should be deionized water.

[@cenimadreams]

No! It has dirt and calcium deposits

[@SVTPerformance]

The Ford Gold coolant is the cause of many cooling system issues on Fords. I never reinstall it on anything it's drained from. I use Shell Rotella ELC or their Ultra ELC on pretty much everything. They do not precipitate silicates. However, I understand that you may have to stick with Motorcraft coolant at a dealership.

[@FordTechMakuloco]

SVTPerformance We have never had any problems with gold very good stuff but not for diesels they found out, we even had BG telling us they found the gold coolant to be unmatched at the time when doing lab test and I agree.

[@nickelwork87]

***** In the diesel the coolant would get so hot from the engine. Usually what happens is there is problems with the exhaust cooler.Its part of the egr system. When you have failed it heats the coolant up past its boiling point ans starts to separate the particles. It happens mainly to 6.0 and 6.4 powerstrokes. The common sign is a white residue on the top of the degas bottle.

[@SVTPerformance]

nickelwork87 The problem with Motorcraft Gold in the 6.0s and 6.4s (but particularly the 6.0) was the solid precipitates falling out of the solution and clogging the oil cooler. This in turn would starve the EGR cooler of coolant, allow it so get too how, it would then crack internally, and finally lead to any number of costly failures. All because of a coolant that contains silicates.

[@SVTPerformance]

FordTechMakuloco I've seen clogged oil coolers on gas engines from the Gold coolant as well, along with a general cruding up of the cooling system in general. That's something we pay particular attention to in racing and towing applications. The Rotella coolants (and any number of other quality ELCs) do not contain the silicates which cause the failures. The Rotella Ultra ELC was actually designed with modern (emissions equipment laden) diesels in mind. It has a corrosion inhibitor package that works great aluminum intensive engines. The best parts about those coolants is that they keep the cooling system extremely clean and don't need to be changed for 600,000 miles.

[@FordTechMakuloco]

***** They found the gold just wasn't cutting it and causing front cover cavitation on the 6.4L hence they went to OAT coolant for the new 6.7L. Diesels are allot harder on the coolant.

[@anthonycastronovo1747]

Great video, My transmission pan has a sticker on it that says external transmission filter installed in cooler line filter line must not be installed when flushing the cooling system. Do I have to worry about this when I use your procedure?

[@clemensstepho411]

You mixed the engine coolant 60/40 or 70/30 because there is water in the engine block. How do you how much water is still in the block? How do you know if 60/40 or 70/30 is the correct ratio? Otherwise, wouldn’t being off by 10% be a lot?

[@mr.horse1801]

Ah yes the beautiful sound of the 3v cam phaser knock

[@billgateskilledmyuncle23]

I just pretend it came from the factory like that.

[@bertveldhuizen8699]

Mine is been doing that for 80,000 miles now...

[@chicanopowers4938]

That's how you know it's a 5.4

[@trentbadon5581]

That's the fuel injectors you hear, the phaser "tick" is different.

[@ford88mustang]

I thought it was a diesel at first

[@heavydutyMechanic]

Can you do this same procedure on a 1990 ford f250 7.3 diesel

[@13boogieman13]

1 of the main questions I c, is, how much water is in the system after the final flush? U said 70% concentrate. I realize u need 2 add concentrate 1st, to even out what's left in the system. So, 70% of a gal? Or 70% of the jug, which would b, 2 gal? Or more? I'd like to get that '1st mix' rite, b4 adding the rest of 50/50. Thanks 2 any1 who could clarify a little better.

[@terryharvey4811]

FIND OUT WHAT YOU COOLING SYSTEM CAPACITY IS THEN DIVIDE BY 2. ADD THAT MUCH CONCENTRATED ANTIFREEZE AND TOP OUT WITH WATER. THIS WILL RESULT IN A 50/50 MIX WITH A FREEZE POINT OF -34 DEGREES EVERY TIME.

[@spec1923]

So tap water is ok to use. If you do it I trust you.. I keep hearing to use distilled water

[@cyclonus01]

Will this method work on an E99 F250 7.3 PSD? Thanks.

[@Tigersmundo]

Which is better for my Ford Edge Green VC-10-A2 vs Orange VC-3-B Region Southern California

[@jacobmyler7689]

I prefer to use de-ionized water and premix it before i put it in. Deionized water won't carry a voltage and will reduce oxidation on internal parts. Premixing helps measure the coolant:water you add is always at the correct ratio for proper freezing and boiling points.

[@benmiller6136]

What is deionized water? I’ve never heard of it.

[@btqy]

@@benmiller6136 It's distilled water that has been boiled the steam is capture making deionized water.

[@benmiller6136]

@@btqy No that would be distilled water.

[@benmiller6136]

@@btqy Deionized water and Distilled water are both types of extremely pure water, but they are produced in two distinctly different ways. Depending on the source water, distilled water can be more pure than deionized water - but that doesn't necessarily mean that it's better. There are pros and cons to using deionized water vs. distilled water for particular processes, particularly when it comes to cost and efficiency.

[@Student-lj5tr]

So mine is a 5.4L engine which states it takes about 5.28 gal of coolant. After following all of the steps up to refilling with coolant. I poured about 2 gal of coolant in and the reservoir was almost all filled up. I put a little water in and will have to figure the concentration levels out later, but my question is, does the radiator not fully drain? Was there water left in the system as I didn't use 5.28 gal to fill it back up?

[@Acordionista509]

6:16 isn't it bad to add cold water to a hot engine?

[@donvergaz]

no

[@UploaderNine]

How do you collect all that flush water so it doesn't go in the sewer? If I flush like that I'd need a 500 gallon drum to collect it all.

[@DaaaveO1971]

I think you know the answer. It went in the sewer. Whether it should have or not is an issue no one wants to comment on.

[@umrthrower]

I guess you could try to catch the additive before you start the straight water flush, but after that you’re just using water.

[@Kelvin555s]

Thanks for the video. I am thinking to do on my car. Just one thing, the tap water used to flash at the end some will stay in the system. I was told not to use tap water into cooling system. I can think I can't do a flash like this using distilled water as well.

[@FordTechMakuloco]

It all depends on your water source most tap water from the city is just fine.

[@larrywiseman465]

I’m a little confused. It looked as though you only added 1 gallon of coolant. Shouldn't you have added at least 2 gallons to a 17 qt system.

[@Gave-rf1hr]

EXACTLY

[@frankamdur1441]

Thank you that was very simple and easy to follow and truly appreciated

[@kya1260am]

Good job! Very thorough. We can't ask for more...

[@FordTechMakuloco]

Ford Taurus vehicles with a very rusty coolant condition please follow this alternative method- kzbin.info/www/bejne/gZfNdmOIfLt5gJI

[@gilbertomoran7420]

Hey man I watched your video on KZbin referring the 5.4 3v engine timing chain installation. I'm kind of stuck because my passanger side camshaft sprocket said L when it should have an R like ok in your video can you help please?

[@FordTechMakuloco]

Gilberto Moran The new phasers have both an L and R just line up the timing for the appropriate side and letter.

[@gilbertomoran7420]

Thanks for you help man .

[@Gatorsrok]

Let me ask you something, tech to tech, can you tell me you ACTUALLY do this for every- flush cooling system of contaminants you get on your RO's?? your more than likely just a drain and fill.... I feel bad when i get this on a ticket and i do a drain and fill and the coolant still looks like shit... flat rate baby! FTW! haha

[@ElevatedVision]

Gatorsrok that's called fraud saying one thing and charging for something that didn't get done. Got ford in a pickle cause my dash cam recorded the entire process after they said they can and will do a complete flush. Even went as far as our "expensive machines do it, flushes and fills" haha. After catching them in a lie per dash cam their reply was, we can't flush the entire system so that's why we add preservative/conditioners in to help with the other 2.5 gallons we can't get out. 😂😂 talk about a crock of 💩. If your wondering this was on a 2011 f150 5.0. Not attacking ya just saying theirs obviously a trust issue with that statement 🤙🏼

[@DuckTomato]

I believe it's better to make sure the tap water is not hard. Prefer to have a wafer softener to filter out all the mineral. Otherwise, I would just get some gallons of distilled water. I like your video. Straight to the point!

[@FordTechMakuloco]

yup

[@srpope80]

Great videos, love your channel esp. all the 5.4L 3v advice! On this video, are you worried about introducing cool water to a hot engine and cracking something?

[@FordTechMakuloco]

+srpope80 Engine internal cooling passages are hot but nothing to worry about as the cold water mixes before it enter the block even then the mass of the block it can handle it.

[@tessam5601]

You bring up a good point. If your car overheats, when it is cool enough to open add the cold water with the engine running.

[@uGoGop]

The thermostat closes up during the cold water flush. If you are at home and not worried about paying shop hours, then go ahead and close the drain plug during a few drain and fil, wait for temp to go up with the heat on full red, this will circulate the gunk in the heater core and allow it to drain out on the next drain dump.

[@markk3652]

thanks brian! make sure to test the coolant afterwards with a boil/freeze tester to make sure it's at least a 50/50 mix. I usually pull the lower hose at the start to really evacuate the sediment. Great videos brother!!

[@FordTechMakuloco]

+Mark K If they are that bad yes we do that on the Taurus vehicles with the rust issue.

[@markk3652]

@@skjoe1115 especially when it is filled with the gold coolant!!

[@0101tuber]

How do you get the flush solution cleared from the engine block? Once the flush is drained and the hose is pumping cold water while idling, the thermostat would stay closed, no?

[@frankhernandez672]

I will follow up with running distilled water for 2 cycles then fill

[@HC-xs6ek]

Both Ford Dealers want $189.95 for the "flush service". After your video you saved me a bunch, if you are ever out on the East Coast (Long Island) let me know, I owe you dinner my friend! Thanks again!

[@mrcupcakeman32]

that's pretty cheap...I wasted 100 dollars on 3 gallons of the recommended concentrated coolant

[@HC-xs6ek]

@mrcupcakeman32 lol that was 7 years ago and im pretty sure its double that nowadays. Funny 2 weeks ago I went to grab the yellow coolant for my 6.4, it's been discontinued and replaced with a "one color" fixes all from ford.

[@thomas.bill92]

So I have an 07 escape and I just passed 100,000 miles. My question is, do I need to flush the system or would a simple drain and refill work? The coolant is still nice and clear so I'm pretty confident that the system is still in pretty good shape and isn't all scaled up or rusty. Do you think that just a drain and refill would replace enough coolant to make it worthwhile?

[@FordTechMakuloco]

Bill Thomas A drain and fill would be just fine but the method shown here is absolute best.

[@jt7559]

FordTechMakuloco hopefully you read this!! i have a 2013 f150 ecoboost with 104,000 on it. a few months ago i noticed my overflow was empty! i took it to deal and they looked high and low and cannot figure out where it went. they topped me off and sent me on my way. i have to add 1/2 gallon every 3 weeks or so to keep the cold level within range. now, sometimes in the morning when i start my truck the exhaust shows as if its cold outside even thoe its 80°f. is it maybe leaking thru the turbo? another issue, when i get to wherever im going i shut the truck off and when i get out and shut the door as soon as the door slams shut i hear a sizzle sound from somewhere up front but cannot find it. hopefully you can help! ps. i have found small puddles below truck usually midline center of truck and of course exhaust tip. the puddle doesnt smell of coolant but it feels lubricated and clear as water. if i use octane booster or a injector cleaner everytime i get gas it reduces that so im assuming we have crap gas. i cannot afford premium fuel so i use midgrade and stp injector cleaner every time i gas up. i have noticed the truck runs better with less rough ecoboost idle shake.

[@vincecifelli8894]

@@jt7559 It's probably aslow leak at the reservoir hose, there is a replaceable o-ring in there below a white plastic ring. There are also o-rings in the T located below the throttle body and in the lower radiator hose. Check out Tuff Rings. For a few bucks you can replace all of these and fix most known leak points. About to do my 2012 F150 as I have the same issue. BTW at night you might be able to see/hear some steam escaping the tank hose connector right after you get home from a drive!

[@leonelhernandez7508]

Do you have a shop here in chicago. I like your dedication towards your work is it possible for you to work on my car. It's a 2011 ford taraus 3.5L Limited 103kmiles. Just need a coolant flush and a tune up.

[@FordTechMakuloco]

Just west of Chicago yes, you can submit a service request here- bsgautomotive.com/

[@leonelhernandez7508]

Thank you I will definitely make an appointment in a few days

[@leonelhernandez7508]

I haven't been able to be at his shop yet I'm saving up some $.

[@leonelhernandez7508]

But I will go I promise that

[@jayjay7160]

Shouldn't you use distilled water to flush the tap water out ?

[@robertboener]

I was asking myself the same thing. The new yellow p-oat doesn’t like tap water

[@gilbertopadilla3611]

I've got a 2010 5.4 F-150 that doesn't have a pressurized de-gas bottle. so I can still clean the coolant reservoir, but do the actual flush through the radiator neck?

[@Hound3006]

I've got an '08 F150 5.4L with 70K and plan on doing this flush soon. Do you recommend replacing the thermostat now? Why or why not. Also, are you not using distilled water b/c they system has so many contaminants in the system at this point?

[@FordTechMakuloco]

Hound3006 If you are doing the flush then yes do it while the system is drained. I did not use distilled water because this was a customer job and the dealer does not pay for distilled water.

[@Hound3006]

Thanks

[@WilChu]

Really appreciate your detailed maintenance videos! I'm hoping you can provide some insight. How does the fresh/cold water make its way to the water pump and engine? Wouldn't it just go into the degas bottle > radiator > out the open drain petcock? Can you suggest a coolant flush method for a Fiesta? My research suggests that it doesn't have a drain petcock - so people remove the lower radiator hose.

[@kevinscott8694]

Great video...One little thing... The second cold water hits the t-stats it closes up. Its not easy to do on all engines, but on the 5.4l 3v (the engine your working on) it very easy to remove the t-stat, then bolt the housing back down (it will leak, which is fine for the flush) Flush the system the same way you described only now you have a full flow of coolant going through the engine...Then, t-stat back in, flip the o-ring around opposite of how it came out (I keep spare t-stat seals on hand at my shop just in case the original cant be reused). Refill and burp just as you described. Again great Video.

[@FordTechMakuloco]

Nope the thermostat does not close up one bit. Try this test on your next flush. Get the engine full hot as stated in the video, at this point the upper radiator hose will be too hot to touch indicating the thermostat has opened up and started to flow. Then begin the flush with the garden hose, periodically check that same upper radiator hose with your hand you will find it will still be too hot to touch indicating coolant is still flowing through the open thermostat to the radiator. Try this then get back to me.....

[@URCARSUX]

@@FordTechMakuloco Hi. Can you explain how the tstat stays open? I understand you run the garden hose while the coolant is still hot and tstat is still open...but won't the cold water close the tstat fairly quickly before the hose water flushes out the block and heater core? I would puld like to ensure all of the chemical flush is out of the system. Thanks.

[@jasondenny9128]

@FordTechMakuloco , So as long as full heat is on in the cab it will flow through the heater core and the complete engine removing the flush fluid in the process? Thanks

[@mcrider333]

Is it okay to use tap water like you did? I see many recommend distilled water? Thank you. Love your videos by the way. It is a great service to DIY'ers.

[@Lucky8s]

It depends on how clean your tap water is. I'd undoubtedly go with distilled water. A 4l jug at Walmart is less than $2. Just make sure your coolant hasn't already been diluted.