Ford 5.4L 3v Engine Timing Chain Kit Replacement Pt 1 of 4: Getting to the Engine

[@FordTechMakuloco]

These are the Tools and Parts needed for the job: Updated Latest Ford Timing Kit- amzn.to/3O3wtDM 2004-2014 Engines Latest Roller Followers x24- amzn.to/3BtEHgm 2005-2014 Engines can utilize this Ford Racing Kit- amzn.to/492DRYC Valve Cover Gasket Set: 2004-2007- amzn.to/2ao6KB7 2008-2014- amzn.to/2ap9x05 Latest VCT Solenoids- amzn.to/2aZtAo5 Crankshaft Pulley Bolt- amzn.to/2aNQwRL Phaser Holding Tool- amzn.to/2aBVfpK Roller Follower Remover Tool- amzn.to/2aDglu5 Crankshaft Positioning Tool- amzn.to/2ap8eOD Cat Claw- amzn.to/2anM8yV Crankshaft Pulley Puller (2004-mid year 2008)- amzn.to/2akfw3k Crankshaft Pulley Puller (mid 2008-2014)- amzn.to/2pHaaMH Pneumatic Fan Wrench Kit- amzn.to/2auxqmP Permatex Engine Sealant- amzn.to/2anMrtp Lisle A/C disconnect tool- amzn.to/2aaYpW3 5W-30 Oil I recommend- amzn.to/2aeRdUt Melling M360HV Oil Pump- amzn.to/2IBcqKG Engine Coolant needed if drained- amzn.to/2aeR6bh Mopar Rust Penetrant- amzn.to/2anN8D7 Oil pump replacement Video- kzbin.info/www/bejne/q52oe5mZhpx7nqM Ford 5.4L 3v Triton Engines: Roller Follower Removal and Installation Video- kzbin.info/www/bejne/oJWkhpiMh6eBd5o Torque Sequence Diagrams: Valve Covers 2004-2007: 89 inch lbs LH- drive.google.com/file/d/0BzYkF_-Nh949YkFXTmxFbTNVcXc/view?usp=sharing RH- drive.google.com/file/d/0BzYkF_-Nh949akIteHRIcWhvVDQ/view?usp=sharing Valve Covers 2008-2014: 89 inch lbs LH- drive.google.com/file/d/0BzYkF_-Nh949Tno0czVseFh2WjA/view?usp=sharing RH- drive.google.com/file/d/0BzYkF_-Nh949WWRHVVg4ZFN5SWM/view?usp=sharing Front Cover Sealant Points- drive.google.com/file/d/0BzYkF_-Nh949Rkx5SEk0MndaMkk/view?usp=sharing Front Cover Sequence- drive.google.com/file/d/0BzYkF_-Nh949RUdfR1hfVHhlWWM/view?usp=sharing LH RH Camshaft Sequence: 89 inch lbs drive.google.com/file/d/0BzYkF_-Nh949UjdDN3BybWtsejg/view?usp=sharing 5.4L 3v Timing Chain Kit Replacement Series: Part 1- kzbin.info/www/bejne/pIK5fKGaZ9dgrdk Part 2- kzbin.info/www/bejne/q2fanKyCesqInck Part 3- kzbin.info/www/bejne/o5ulgXZnZdCdgaM Forscan is a free Ford Specific Diagnostic Software: Download Here- forscan.org/home.html ELM 327 Adapter I Recommend- amzn.to/2GC6dBj As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.

[@derekortiz3663]

FordTechMakuloco thank you so much. I've learned so much from you. do you have a patreon? I'd like to subscribe to you for a monthly, you deserve it.

[@jeffreymiller9769]

Great videos. Very helpful. I installed the new Ford parts and timed the engine. I'm now installing the cam followers. One question, when turning the engine to install the followers, some times the left chain gets some slack in it. When I turn it further it tightens up again. Is this normal, because there is no oil pressure to the tensioner? Thanks!

[@NeroticNoob]

man.....Thanx for the video. I haven't ordered the kit yet, but I'll get the specialty tools beforehand. Great video.

[@stevensdiy9485]

been looking for an option to replace the timing chain tensioners with one spring loaded instead or relying on oil pressure on a 5.4 32 valve any options/ part numbers

[@deansummers8546]

Looks like the kit is only good for the 5.6l

[@johnkoco117]

One month ago today my brother dropped off his 218,00 mile , 2005 F150 Lariat 2wheel drive 5.4L. The vehicle had a terrible rattle on start up. Smoke sometimes on start up, Misfires, on 2 and 3 cylinder. Poor gas mileage. This is an extra vehicle for his farm so he was not in a hurry. I concluded he he needed a full timing chain job, high volume oil pump, plugs, coils, valve stem guide seals, oil change obviously. And cooling system flush with fresh antifreeze. The only reason I took this job on is because I felt this Four part series and additional high volume oil pump video provided me with the information I needed to complete the task. In addition the videos on roller followers and valve lash adjusters helped me determine I had three bad roller followers. I wanted only motorcraft parts for internal engine parts. I decided to replace the water pump, lower radiator hose, and I put on a gates serpentine belt system. I wasn’t impressed with it because the pulleys all had lateral play. I even called gates to get their opinion as to whether I got authentic parts or if they were somebody’s cheap copies of theirs. The rep said it’s normal to have a little bit of lateral play when they are under load they won’t have any. He was wrong they do have a little bit of lateral play. However they do roll nice and smooth and much easier than the 16 year old Motorcraft parts did. So time will tell on that. I caution you to heed the warning of Brian when he says watch this video series to see if it’s something you’re capable of doing. I feel the videos empowered me to do something I would not have been able to do without them. Today I finished the project and the vehicle runs excellent. I will however highly recommend getting a topside creeper. As I am currently 56 years old it’s hard on the body to do this kind of work. I think the book calls for 12 hours for just the timing chain job. I cannot add up how many hours it took me to do this job I would typically work 3 to 5 hours at a time, on my days off. A month later I am finally finished. I will say the valve guide seals were very time consuming and tedious. I want to express my thanks and gratitude to Brian for making this series and taking the time to show the details that are needed to do a good quality job. I have seen other comments from people say oh you don’t have to take the roller followers all out and stuff like that. Just follow what he says and you will have great results. I did it exactly as he said putting the chains on with all of my roller followers out. I needed to inspect them thoroughly anyway along with the lash adjusters. Be sure and use all the tools that he recommends for a proper timing job can you do it without some of those tools yes. Don’t be a fool when I Wiseman recommends tools and procedures, follow his instructions for the best results. Thank you again Brian I am sitting here with a smile on my face knowing that I fixed an engine that would’ve not been much longer for this world had a continued without repairs. I appreciate you!

[@smh2754]

I ain’t reading allat

[@AnonymousAlecks]

Is this engine still running?

[@dustingrimm4062]

Thank you. I wasn't sure about taking on this project. I have some experience under the hood but, have never done a timing chain. Your comment gave me the confidence to give it a shot. Have a great day.

[@markkeenan1050]

Brian, THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU, Your videos are SO detailed and comprehensive that you gave me the confidence to do this job myself on my 2005 F150 with 330K KM. I thought I would only need to replace 1 phaser on bank 2 but when I got in there I could see chunks of black plastic rolling around in the Timing chains, so I knew the entire kit needed to be changed out. I got my parts and tackled the project, including dropping the Oil Pan and cleaning out the broken pieces. I found that the kit had been changed out once before and apparently they did not clean out the pan, as it was full of more plastic than what my kit left behind, and the intake was almost plugged with small pieces. I had an 80 yr old mechanic friend helping me but he was not familiar with Fords, so I was taking the lead. At the end of the job some 18 hours later, he said he actually learned a lot and was impressed that I would take on this project. Later my father in law also told me how impressed he was that I did this, and said he wouldn't have done it. Keep in mind that I am not much of a mechanic beyond brakes, tire changes, and CV Joints, and basic maintenance. I'm a retail worker and Painter by trade. My only other option was to abandon the truck and NOT be able to afford a replacement. So again, Brian, You saved my truck, you saved me money, and gave me confidence. The job cost me about $1200 CAN $$. YOU ARE A GOOD MAN!!!! [e-mail]

[@greggknutson1996]

Thanks, Brian! Just finished first timing job on a 2007 Ford Expedition with 235,000 miles. New timing set, phasers, solenoids, Melling HV oil pump, roller followers, and oil pan gasket. Motor sounds and runs like new. Wife helped me every step, and giggled with joy on startup. Keep up the great videos!

[@chadrahlf6760]

Any tips tricks thoughts? Doing this job this weekend.

[@mongothrash]

Just finished doing the full timing set on the 5.4 in my 2005 f350 by following your videos and it runs perfectly. You are helping a lot of people who can't afford a crazy expensive new truck breath life into their old one. Thanks!

[@cassiusvessey9087]

If anyone has the need to attempt this full timing chain,oil pump and phaser replacement, go for it. I just finished mine yesterday on my 2009 Ford F-150 with the 5.4L 3v with 210,943 miles on the clock. These videos provided everything I needed, suggested all the tools and parts without exception . The narration you delivered is expert to say the least. Cannot thank you enough for you efforts in making these four parts available. Hope everyone gets as much for those as I did. Your newest and happiest fan.

[@GreatDataVideos]

Followed these videos about 4 years ago. It was way beyond my skillset, but your step-by-step instructions made it possible. Been running fine since. Thanks so much!

[@stevegarwood1382]

Rebuilt my 2004 F150 and it turned out great. Could not have done it without Brian's help. You're the best.

[@iamlazarow3526]

Did u use the timing kit he recommends?

[@elmachin2]

Purchased a 2006 F150 last week, Just wrapped up the Timing chain, phasors, cam followers, latch adjusters, oil pump, plugs, coils, injectors, coolant flush, 4x4 vacuum lines! These videos are amazing: detailed, great camera work, great explanations and plenty of ancillary videos for all the other service items. I purchased the tools and spent quite a bit of time, but still worth it over the $$$ that a shop would've charged.

[@KATTYWOMPUS1]

Repeating other comments.... thank you! The entire 5.4l 3v series of videos saved my boss a good 5k in outside labor. With your insight and detailed information. I was able to fix the truck. Please do not stop your content.

[@ddewhirst7795]

Can't thank you enough for these videos. I got a 2010 expedition with a timing issue and the wife and kids depend on it. Got it back up and running. And you're definitely right, get the ford phasers. Thanks again!

[@andrewwest3556]

I’d honestly just get a lockout kit and tune the lockout doesn’t deminish fuel economy that bad and the tune will give that right back essentially and some more on a eco 87 octane tune I did a cold air intake exhaust and tune with a lockout the truck has never ran or sounded better

[@ncd7184]

I’ve got a 2013 Ford expedition. Same situation as you, wife and kiddos car. How was the job? Any different from the video?

[@BustinCasts]

You are the man Brian!!! Thank you for putting together such a thorough how to guide. Purchased the Ford kit you linked and a Melling 10340 oil pump and followed along. Couldn't be happier with the result. Passenger tensioner was blown causing timing chain rattle at start up. Now she runs smooth as silk with the only noise being heard is a light noise from the injectors firing. You made a 5.4 3 valve believer out of me. 👍

[@BustinCasts]

Only issue I ran into was my crankshaft pulley. My 09 didn't have the threaded holes, so a quick trip to Harbor Freight for a 3 jaw puller set and I was back in the game.

[@galesams4205]

Just finished up a timing chain kit on 2006 expedition. I went with the cast iron tensoniers the only way to do this. If i ever do this again i will pull the engine first, i spent more time removeing the OIL PAN than anything (4 WHEEL DRIVE). Running great NO noise or check engine lights.

[@MrPelletgunguy]

I wish I would have gone with the iron tensioners with the ratcheting mechanism. Did a timing job and 5k miles later, the timing jumped so now have to go back in there again.

[@marvindeese8452]

I have a 2008 that I have had since new. 176,000 miles. I'm just now changing the timing and only because I've started to notice a lag over the last 3 months and with my new Business and hauling a 6,000 pound trailer this is definitely needed. Thanks FTM! I'm breaking into this over the next four days. Thank you for everything you do and have done for this engine, so that us shade tree mechanics can get it done.

[@everydaychris5597]

My ‘07 Expedition is thanking you for your glorious help, right now. I feel so amateur, yet this timing change is a surreal spiritual experience.

[@helimech28]

I just wanted to give a big thank you for posting these videos. I followed them pretty much step by step. Only difference was I had to replace my cams on my navigator due to some scoring on the journals. The scoring luckily did very little to the heads and caps. I figured the scoring was due to lack of oil pressure from the original oil pump. I upgraded to the 340. New cams, Phasers, timing chains, tensioners, guides, crank gear, and oil pump. My 2005 Navigator is running tip top. This vehicle had a "tap" since I bought it 5 years ago. Now it is completely silent. This saved me tons of money and I got more tools out of it. Can't thank you enough man.

[@1917Enfield]

Just finished doing an entire timing job on my 05 f150 with the 5.4 3 valve. Started it up and it idled like hammered dog shit. I figured I would drive it to the shop and let them figure it out. When I put it in reverse I realized I had no power brakes. My brain started running and I realized that when I was doing all the work on the driver side head(valve cover removal, pulling the cam and reinstalling the roller rockers) I was pretty rough while handling the brake booster vacuum line and I had unplugged the vacuum line for the brake booster from the back of the intake. I had to remove the air filter assembly and the throttle body and take the fuel rail loose so I could make enough room to get my hand/arm down back there to reconnect it. Truck runs like new now. If your truck idles like shit after you have done all this work, give the brake booster vacuum line a check. It may be the culprit.

[@santosfc5455]

This comment is gold!

[@scottdumont5935]

Me too! But i got mine from the bottom as I was lucky enough to be using a lift. Purrs like a kitten now!

[@huntershank661]

AWESOME VIDEOS! My father just finished replacing the cam phasers, timing chains, spark plugs, etc on my 2006 F150 5.4 all from watching your videos. He keeps talking about how helpful your video series are for working on our vehicles. My truck started right up and runs smoother than ever. Thank you so much!

[@freds8626]

As others have pointed out, great series of videos Brian. I am pretty handy mechanically but Im not sure I would have attempted this without the excellent tutorial. My truck is a 2010 4x4 5.4L 3v F150 w/183k miles. This had been a great truck up until my passenger side guide failure and timing jump (a piece must have wedged between the chain and phaser and followed the sprocket around). I at first thought the vct solenoid was bad on that side and replaced it but while I had the valve cover removed I noticed a couple pieces of guide and realized what had happened. I ordered the kit Brian listed and also replaced the oil pump with the Melling HV unit. All in all I probably spent 25 hrs (working on it at night) and really took my time. The truck now runs great other than a small exhaust manifold leak on the passenger side 🙁. It was probably present before but only notice it now because of how quiet it is! I actually completed this without removing the upper radiator hose or draining the cooling system because I already had just replaced my coolant. I also did not remove the batter or battery box. It was tighter but manageable on my 2010. I also dropped the oil pan (it's not the easiest job) and cleaned out the pick up tube and pan of small guide pieces and years of filth. After checking the oil at 500 miles my oil still looks very clean... Notes: I used a lift and worked from both the top and bottom. *After removing the air deflector the sight lines are pretty good. - Rent a Chrysler 3 jaw puller if you dont have the 3 threaded holes on your balancer. - You can see the dipstick tube hold down bolt from the wheelwell, I had a difficult time getting the angle on that without seeing it. - Take a look at Brian's video on removing the power steering pump, a couple of the bolts are blind. - Have plenty of brake clean on hand

[@beardedpatriot1857]

Previous owner of my truck used the cloyes set. The cam phasers didn't last 1000 miles. His loss my gain. Bought the truck super cheap. Doing the job myself with to good parts saving me some $$. Got me a great truck cheap. Thanks for the help.

[@march434]

Finally dug into mine to replace tensioners, guides, and phasers. I feel like it's an F150 rite of passage. We need t-shirts or something that say, "I survived Ford's bad parts design". Thanks for the great video series on this!

[@FordTechMakuloco]

That is a darn good idea!!

[@pauliethebrit]

Agreed! I'll take 4 in Extra Large!

[@BustinCasts]

Haha sign me up for a few XL's too.

[@joshuachilders129]

What is such a bad design?

[@alacard84]

Lmao. Heck yeah. I survived the 5.4L 3v FORD

[@richardsuire1475]

Thank You for doing these videos! I already had auto mechanic training from trade school my senior year in high school (back in 1981) and do all my own work on my vehicles. The time you took to go step by step and explain what to do and what to look for has saved me a lot of money. I did all of this including the water pump, vvt solenoids, cam sensors, crank sensor, pulleys, and oil pump. My '09 F150 had 228,000 miles on it when the upper right chain guide broke. Your Good Dude!! Thanks again!

[@joshuabaker6074]

He is my grandpa,and dad and his dad or grandpa which through so much info bc of the web now and these guys and people are great!!! Thank you for your great video,great job these guys do!!!! It will save us 20,000$ in life at least in 30 year my dad even said wow my dad,grandpa would of loved this stuff.... These guys were so good at being mechanics and these guys are so helpful,everything is at our disposal with knowledge on the internet!!

[@jessicastevenson5598]

How long does this job take

[@mikestarzyk3813]

Have an 07 Expedition with 106K miles. For the last few years on cold starts where the vehicle had not been driven for days, made a "I have no oil" type noise for a second at startup that seemed to be getting more frequent. No excessive ticking or hunting idle. Always Mobil 1 in engine with Motorcraft Oil Filters. Based upon research fully expected to find tensioners bleeding down. Not the case, did find a broken timing chain guide. Replaced timing chains, guides, tensioners, and on a hunch, the oil pump at the last minute. Had Brian's video's cued up on the computer for when I got stuck. Dude, you are a lifesaver, the videos gave me the confidence to take the project on and got me through the accursed power steering pump and a few other rough spots. If you are ever in Speedway, I will buy you a Daredevil beer.A few words of advice for folks considering this repair, get the Melling 360 pump ahead of time, no one stocks it. I installed the Melling 10340 high pressure "performance" pump which I think is just a 360 for twice as much. You can use the old crank seal and a block of wood to install the new seal without damage. Follow all instructions in videos without shortcuts. Have infinite patience. Good luck.

[@jeffcargo4287]

If you are thinking of doing this repair job, check the power steering bolts for rust and corrosion. My 2004 F-150 bolts were totally corroded. Tore stuff apart until I got to these bolts but couldn’t get them out. Was going to hire a welding company to cut/torch them out but was afraid I was going to start the power steering fluid on fire. Fortunately Brian’s shop isn’t too far from me and he agreed to finish the job (don’t count on that, Brian doesn’t like to finish what other people have started). Brian ended up breaking two of those bolts and cutting off the power steering pump, needing to cut some of the timing cover off in the process. Fortunately I had sent a new power steering pump and front cover with the truck which Brian used. Figured if Brian didn’t need the parts I could just return them but glad I sent them. I could have done the job if those bolts hadn’t been so bad. Thanks for finishing the job Brian!!! Truck has 187,000 miles and engine sounds like new.

[@kevinwatts3702]

I am suffering through weeks on this job. 03 2v 5.4 expedition. Bolts have been stripping left and right. Just received a new bolt extractor kit. Really good so far.

[@3613jeremy]

I live in Michigan so I've been dealing with rust my whole life I've always used PB blaster penetration oil and thought all penetrating oil was the same till Brian suggested the Chrysler brand penetrating oil so I order that on Amazon put I had already started a job on a rusted S10 the part store had stuff called superzilla and was blown away by both Chrysler & superzilla penetrating oils I do like that the superzilla is a safe none petroleum product and is more environmentally friendly but you have to have a good penetrating oil and a small torch using map gas if not a acetylene and oxygen torch propane rarely gets hot enuff

[@brendaorihuela5186]

Just saw this whole series. It is great. I know there are no many, if any woman that watch these kind of videos, but if I do not take care of my 05 expedition, no one will. And I am certainly not going to pay the outrageous prices to send it to a shop. Thanks to this video and several of your other videos I have managed to change my spark plugs first then got up the courage to replace the valve cover gasket . Thank you for your amaizing detailed videos. Please feel free to do more of these detailed videos.

[@cwalshiii]

Great videos. My 2010 F-150 is now so quiet, I stopped at a light and had to look to see if the truck stalled! Running great. I'd definitely recommend this job to anyone with moderate mechanical skills, assuming you have the proper tools, time and patience. Oil pump, p/s pump, and roller followers will test your patience, for sure. Thanks again for the series.

[@andrewkosinski411]

I know you say this video isnt for entertainment purposes, but I really do like watching your videos, and other videos like this because they are educational, and provides a means to gain an understanding of how these different systems work in a vehicle so that the average person who cant afford to take it to a shop to learn how to do it themselves. Thanks for your videos.

[@tbyrd4742]

I would like to start off by saying that your video was really helpful for my son and I. I had to replace my left side valve cover on my 2004 F150 5.4 Triton because it had a very bad crack, leaking oil all over the place. We got the job done and no more leaks. Boy my wife was happy. Thanks again

[@hooklinetinker9680]

I'm excited! That wasn't so bad. now on to Part 2. About to begin work on my 2006 Mark LT with 148,000 miles. I bought all new Genuine Ford Parts. Got a timing kit from Shults Ford on Amazon - $715. Also got a complete set of rockers and adjusters from Quirks Ford on eBay - $456 . VCT solenoids from Jim Vreeland Ford on amazon - $136. Melling M360HV oil pump from FAP Engine Parts on eBay - $135. And, of course, my cat claw tool from Amazon - $7. Plus everything else you specified to do the job. Thanks for the excellent instructional video series, Brian.

[@ssmitty00]

hook line and sinker do you have a link for the timing chain kit? thanks

[@hooklinetinker9680]

Timing Kits are "Currently Unavailable" on Amazon as of 8/15/2020.

[@justingoats9155]

Just performed this whole job in my 2008 ford f150 with 200000 miles with the original timing components and it took me about a week because I was being very careful about everything. The vehicle ran good on Initial startup but started shaking badly. I scanned the engine and noticed it was bank 2 giving me timing problems. I found out it was just a bad connection on the bank 2 camshaft timing sensor. Vehicle runs super quiet now😄 very happy I did this maintenance on it.

[@charlieworkphone7969]

Just wanted to say thanks for this video series. It's been 3 weeks since I finished the full timing replacement on my 04 F150 5.4. Used your videos along with a Chiltons book. Everything works great! In fact, I can't even hear the engine running when I am at a red light, gas mileage increased, no more codes or sounding like a diesel. The step by step process you demonstrated was outstanding. For anybody planning to do this job I will suggest you avoid the cheaper timing kits you can find on ebay or amazon. I thought I would be saving money by going with an evergreen kit but the oil pump came out of the box seized. At that point I didn't feel comfortable putting the other aftermarket parts in. So, I ate the cost and went to a Ford dealership to get new parts minus the Mehling M340 oil pump. Still saved money doing the work myself even after the aftermarket parts fiasco. On another note; I plan on rebuilding or replacing my rear differential. Got a shudder between 45-55mph and all the forums point me to the rear diff. Any links for some good info before I tackle this? Once again, thanks for an informative and accurate video of how to time this engine.

[@caseycallahan4438]

Charlie Workphone want to do mine lol?

[@moranjo7]

Charlie Workphone I had a shudder at 55. i did axle shaft bearings and that didn't fix it. I got new tires and it improved for a short time. between some higher dollar tires and new shocks and struts, it rides smooth.

[@edgarcamacho2863]

Hey, its time for me to replace the timing chain and tensioners and all that, and i also was looking to buy a kit on Amazon but im having second thoughts now that i read your comment. Do i just go to the dealership and ask if i can buy the oem parts there? Is that possible?

[@rickoglesby]

Great videos on doing and completing this timing chain job on my newly purchased '05 Ranch King F150. Truck had a brief rattle upon cold startup and a slight ticking on the right bank while running. Truck had 159,000 miles and I had no idea about this problem with the 5.4. ( I'm a chevy guy.) I'm a 66yr old retired truck driver with some health issues and was not looking forward to this job, but knew, from your videos, that it was going to get worse. Took my time (10 days and about $1,200) while reviewing your videos and completed this job, A big H--L YES echoed from my garage when I fired that baby up! Saved me at least $1,500 in labor. Many Thanks. Great videos

[@danielschetter7726]

Just completed the Timing Chain Kit Replacement and high volume oil pump replacement on a 2006 F150 5.4L 3V. I'd hardly say I'm a mechanically inclined person but the instructions provided made things easy. Big thanks to FordTechMakuloco for saving me a bunch of money! Its amazing how night and day the difference in how the truck runs now versus before I did this process. Fuel Economy is up, throttle is way more responsive (no more hesitation), and the power is there when I need it. After completing the job I took took a long trick towing a boat and its so good to have the truck running great again. Just a couple of notes that I think might be useful to anyone doing this job: 1) When removing the valve covers, I highly suggest you remove the front two tires and wheel well covers (some screws and some push pins are pretty easy to remove). Particularly on the passenger side, I was struggling with getting that valve cover off. The AC accumulator was in the way and made pulling the valve cover off difficult. After struggling with it for an embarrassing amount of time, I figured I'd take the tire and fender off. From there i was easily able to remove all the bolts off of the cover and pull the cover off without damaging anything. It came off surprisingly easy that way. Plus it made valve cover installation much easier (Torquing those bolts near the firewall side of the valve cover was much easier from the wheel well with everything removed). 2) I wouldn't say I'm mechanically gifted, so it took me about 1-2 hours every night for about a week and a half (more on the weekends) until i was able to complete the job (I should really get an impact wrench...). I was going extremely slow, double checking my work, watching, pausing, and rewinding the video, and taking notes on each step. I was able to do this because I don't depend on my truck as a daily driver, but if you do, you may want to take that under consideration. I wouldn't have a high degree of confidence in my ability to get this job done in just a weekend. 3) Can't believe I discovered a blown out chain tensioner at only 99k miles (c'mon Ford). One side of the engine had a ton of slack in the chain. I put in the new parts and the new oil pump, so hopefully I'll be good to go for the foreseeable future. Details: 2006 F150 5.4L 3V 98,800 miles Diagnosis: I started getting the dreaded rattle startup and figured I'd wait till a code tripped until i took it into a mechanic (probably not smart). I also started noticing power hesitation and poorer and poorer fuel economy. Eventually, I got codes P0345 and P0349. My mechanic said all he had to do was change out the cam sensors... needless to say that did not fix the problem. He then said that we should try replacing the cam phasers. At that point I figured I'd do my own research into the issue and stumbled on Makuloco's channel. The symptons I was getting matched what FordTech had described. I referred with my mechanic to this channel and he said he'd do the job for $3500 in total. A little too rich for my taste so I decided to do the job myself. Really glad I did the job myself and really happy with how the truck runs. Really does feel like new considering the fuel economy and response of the engine. Anyways, big thanks to FordTech, dude you saved me thousands of dollars. Really appreciate the knowledge you're sharing with us 5.4L 3V owners. Keep doing what your doing brother!

[@secretlee7957]

I love this guy ,he's a great teacher,very detailed👍 easy to follow,tells what not to do as well ,and he does it without cursing. I didn't know you could do that,on a ford👍where you been all my life.🤔♥️

[@scottdumont5935]

Man what a job! Thank you so much for all the tips and tge walkthrough. Took me around 25 - 30 hours to do the job. Did complete timing, roller rockers, phasers and oil pump. 04 f150 5.4 3v, hardest parts to me were the power steering pump (what a b!tch) oil pump pickup tube left side bolt and the friggen passenger valve cover. I had to disconnect my ac accumulator to sneak it by. Also, dont cheap out on the valve spring tool. I shoulda bought the otc but i got the ebay knock off for $30 and it kept bending out of shape. Made it through though!! So smooth and QUIET now 😁

[@bigchungus-oj8zz]

Bro, you are a glutton for punishment. You actually seek these jobs which makes you a hero in my book. Going on 2 years and my truck went from barely driveable to strong, smooth and dependable, all thanks to following this 4 part series. Ty ty ty and God Bless you. SUB’d. Peace out..:)

[@FordTechMakuloco]

Yup I love them!

[@alacard84]

Bro this saved me soooo much. I did this myself with the help of you video. Very detailed and accurate. Great job. Tool list is a MUST made everything sooooo much easier. I’ve never done the timing before and I’m a “backyard” mechanic. I work on my own stuff. Can’t express how much this helped. Thank you. Highly recommend this dude.

[@scawticus6085]

Watched all four videos and I only needed instructions to take the valve cover off which I thought was bad... Puts things into perspective. You are an excellent Mechanic! Great video, thank you.

[@mrbill9454]

I just did this job on my 06 with 139500 miles. Also threw a set of headers on it to replace a cracked exhaust manifold. New Melling HV oil pump too. I kinda like my truck again. Great videos and glad to have this job done!

[@daledibernardo3925]

2007 F-150 Lariat Supercrew with 172,000 miles: I'd like to thank you for posting this four part series. It was absolutely awesome as we went through this job referencing the series as we proceeded through it. I also replaced the AC components and the oil pan gasket. It took one Saturday, two of us from 7am to Mid-night none stop. I've referenced your front suspension video as I replaced all but the inner tie rods. Thanks again for all you do! I watched the series at least 5 times before doing the job. Dale

[@adamzappe199]

I watched the videos over and over again. Great info. I caught mine in time before catastrophic engine failure. I'm replacing all the followers, lifters and camshafts because they were all chewed to hell at 95000 miles. Thank God I found your videos and took it in

[@BradFord-kt1zn]

This four-part video is Great, would never have attempted this job without these videos. Replaced phasers, timing chains, tensioners and guide all genuine Ford parts plus a new HV oil pump and 5w 30. My 2007 Ford F150 sounds brand new. Thank you!!

[@blafishing7581]

@Brad Ford 2007 how long did it take you to do the job ? are you an expert or just decent with tools ? mine needs this done to it asap....

[@BradFord-kt1zn]

BLA Fishing I think I put two or three hours a day into it over a week’s time, I was in no rush and it gave me time to research in between steps. There were some very difficult times like with the oil pump and power steering pump but I eventually got through it. I am not an expert but feel I am somewhat handy with tools and like the satisfaction it brings when finished.

[@goneballistic]

I would LOVE to see a series on rebuilding the 5.4l 3v engine from a garage mechanic perspective. A lot of us are driving these trucks and engine swaps to something else are hard, but pulling and rebuilding a 5.4l would be within range of a lot of garage mechanics who may not have the budget for a new truck.

[@brianshanley8264]

I'm troubleshooting a P0022 code on a 2004 F150. I've already had the engine replaced once due to cam phasers and solenoid issues. I've gone and purchased the cam phaser kit and oil pump that you recommend. I'll be starting that project this week. I've watched the videos a couple times and feel confident. I can handle the job. Thanks for the great videos.

[@420nick100]

Awesome walk threw just finished my 04 5.4 time consuming but saved a pile of money by doing it my self. I ordered all my parts from freedom racing all ford oem parts a lot cheaper then any dealer I called. Besides the ungraded oil pump. I’ve owned this truck for 4 years it runs quieter now then ever before.My timing chain guides were toast the pick up filter in the oil pan was jammed full of pieces from the guide. Highly recommend this video to anyone looking to do there timing chain cam phasers.

[@emmy4475]

Awesome Videos!! Makuloco is the BEST Jerry the BEST! Wish I lived close by so I could have Brian and his son work on my 08 F150 (all genuine Ford except for floor mats). I was able to do this job myself which I never would have attempted without these videos. Took several days doing a few hours a day plus a few other repairs while it was all apart. I bought all genuine Ford parts (watched his video on counterfeit parts) I installed Melling M340HV since my engine code is 5. I used two part organizer cases (L and R side) to organize the roller followers one roller per bin front to back labeled a column for each cylinder (I did this in my driveway and made it easy to put them aside and bring back out to install without getting mixed up). I watched his new engine install where he recommends a new oil filter adaptor because of corrosion. This is an easy time to check it and found it was corroded under the gasket seal. Installed new adapter and gasket. I also installed new IWE 4 wheel drive vacuum line since its all exposed and it cracked it wire harness. Rewrapped wire harness where wrap had disintegrated. Found armature on generator was shot. Also realized that pressing out the old bearings on the idler tension pulley wheel and other two idler pulleys is $8 for USA quality bearing compared to $30 for idler pulley and $100 for idler tensioner (couldn't find just pulley wheel on tensioner which got me looking for 6203-2 bearings). Thank you Brian for sharing your knowledge and know how you have a real talent for teaching and making videos. Your son is a lucky kid.

[@dennisbelknap9093]

just wanted to thank you for the detailed video for 5.4 3 valve. you are a great teacher of the mechanical arts

[@js891ster]

VERY useful video series on how to do this job. Slight differences with my 04 F150 but 97% relatable (AC condenser, Power steering pump reservoir location, power steering pump itself (that was very hard) ). Finished doing mine successfully two months ago and finally got my energy back and emotions under control to post about it. This kicked my f'n a** big time. I got the HV(high volume) oil pump which is called for on the melling website though which I believe was the M340HV. This was confusing so I opted for what is called on the Melling website. I figure since it was HV it was an upgrade regardless and it has been working fine I guess. I broke all 8 of my spark plugs inside and used the 65600 spark plug tool for ~$125 from oreilly's. They haven't been changed since I owned it in 2007,, used at that,, so go figure. I deserved it I guess. When all said and done, initial start up was horrible for about 45 seconds,,, like really horrible. Wife's face was what could be expected,,, "see, I told you". But then the engine cleaned up and ran mostly fine, and thats when I felt comfy making eye contact with a smile,,, BUT. The idle was sooo low that when I put in in gear to move, it would do so fine but when lifting foot off of gas the vehicle would stall. This would happen only at low speed driving conditions like when coming to a stop sign or at a turn. Engine ran fine at vehicle speeds over ~20mph and faster. The only thing I did was remove the throttle body and cleaned it with carbon remover. It had a noticeable residue build up near the "butterfly" like what one may find on a 3 day old cup of coffee with creamer left out side. Cleaned that and all seems fine 2 months later. Oh and I haven't gotten around to changing those two pesky VCT's yet. They are surely compromising my mpg and general smooth driveability. Maybe that contributed to the stalling,, but good enough so far. As for OEM desireability,,, why the oem plastic guides again? Hmm, just drivin-on! Anyhow, much much thanks for the vid series. I could not have done it with out them! Thanks!

[@jay1070]

You're doing the lord's work here man.

[@crisprtalk6963]

Really? The 'Lord" is concerned with engine timing?

[@jay1070]

@@crisprtalk6963 Absolutely, yes.

[@The305Garage]

Thank for this series of video's. You have helped me maintain my 05' F150 FX4. Keep up the great work.

[@jmc3367]

A. Your videos are top notch. B. Thank you. C. Couldn't have done it without you. D. Thank you.

[@johnathanboyd5506]

This guy is the diesel tech Ron of Fords gas lineup

[@donhill1825]

It's incredible you took the time to make this series. Wonderful job.

[@paulsturm8425]

Just finished this job in march of 24. 2011 expedition el limited 4x4 178k. Total cost in parts and tools was about 2400.00. Now I did a lot of extra stuff since I was in there. Beside the full timing job including melling oil pump I also replaced both vct solenoids and all the lash adjusters and roller followers. Also since I have a cross country trip planned in August I replaced both upper and lower radiator hoses , thermostat, and both heater hoses. In addition to that since it was all original I decided to replace all the pulleys and tensioner and replace the belt. The water pump was replaced about 30k ago so I decided to leave it alone. Plugs were also recently changed. I spent about 300.00 on the otc brand tools all 3 of them worked great and I couldn’t imagine doing this job without them. Now for things I learned, my expedition has electric fans and they did not need to be removed to do this job. Also if I had to do this again I would definitely remove to hose that goes from the power steering reservoir to the top of the pump, it would make getting that one bolt out so much easier. When it comes to the oil pump pick up bolts get yourself some thin wire and twist it around the bottom of the bolt, it will allow you to manipulate it into place much easier,please note when you twist it like bread tie around the bolt pay attention to which way you twist clockwise or counter clockwise so when it is started you know which way to untwist to remove the wire. Also please clean the valve cover bolt holes before reinstalling them debris will fall in them. Lastly please, please inspect the valve cover bolts they have a metal sleeve on them where the new grommets go and can get severely corroded under them and they break easily if that happens, ask me how I know!! Drivers side top bolt in rear!! Got lucky was able to get it out with just a small pick. After that I decided to replace all of them at a cost of about $180 from my local dealer don’t take chances I never heard anyone mention this before and that could ruin the job . Put a 100 or so miles on since then and it sounds better then it ever has, it is a pretty big job,probably took me about 20-25 hours but it is totally doable if you take your time follow Brian’s videos. Good luck.

[@I_Am_Killer_B]

The 2011 looks pretty different from the one he's working on. Was it all pretty similar once you got all the wiring and hoses out of the way?

[@paulsturm8425]

Yes it was very similar,if you have any experience working on engines at all you can definitely get the job done using these videos. Everything inside the motor is identical, some plugs and hoses might be different when taking things apart but that is pretty basic stuff. Went on 700 mile road trip pulling a small trailer and ran great. Good luck

[@djgray16]

@@paulsturm8425 Thanks for these great tips and info. 2013 Expedition EL here. Did you have to remove any AC lines / components to remove the passenger side valve cover? Looks like we have lots more room than the example in video.

[@paulsturm8425]

I did not remove them but if I remember correctly it was a bit of pain maneuvering the valve cover around them but I know I definitely did not remove the a/c lines. I’m about 4000 miles into my road trip should be home in a day or two and will give updates on performance and mileage

[@paulsturm8425]

Update: got back from our 4,559.9 mile roadtrip. Truck ran flawlessly. We drove from Illinois to Reno on I-80 towing my son’s car on a trailer and was averaging about 13 mpg. The expedition pulled the trailer up those hills out west like a champ never had any issues and those were some big ass mountains. On the way home we took I-40 and without towing we were averaging about 17 mpg which I believe is very good for a truck with so many miles on it and with the a/c blasting the whole time. It burned about 3 quarts of oil which isn’t to bad considering the harsh combination of mountains and 90-100 degree temps. Overall I believe this a very good alternative to swapping in a new engine or getting into a car payment. I don’t see any reason this engine won’t last a few more years. I think if you have the money all those extra things I did are a great idea and I am so glad I did this work! I truly believe these are great engines that will last if these updates are made. Thanks again Brian for all you do to help us out in these economical challenging times

[@reneb91964]

Appreciate your information. 2008 5.4 4x4 130,000 miles ran good but oil leaks at valve covers, oil filter and TIMING cover. Since that is coming off might as well do full timing set, water pump, melling oil pump, vct solenoids oil filter and bracket gasket. Felt more comfortable with a local mechanic doing the work but got expensive quick....

[@ben4815234]

I love that you're listening to Flagpole Sitta in the background

[@bernardscott3862]

Thanks for your patience and time for the videos.. Perfect!

[@joshmeyer1062]

I really like all the info and step by step video. I let you know how my job goes in 2 weeks just got all of my parts

[@526lawn]

Well... how did it go lol? Hope it went well and truck is still kicking.

[@will4432]

Great vid. I am about to tackle this job on my '03 F150 4.6 with 217,000 miles. Drove it home, parked it over night, came out the next morning and on start up it sounded like a diesel that had run out of oil. I now realize that I had been hearing the chain rattling on start-up for the last year or two. I thought it was a rod knock. I feel like an idiot for ignoring it for so long. Now feel guilty for all the times I was cruising at 85 on a tired chain and tensioner.

[@hoosier_daddy65]

did ya do it?

[@ryanozias9673]

Great video series as others have commented. I'm going to start this repair tomorrow with my 15 year old son on my 07 Expy with 234k. I bought it at 156k and never suspected it has been done previously. Mostly having oil leak on the valve covers on cylinder 4 with not a ton of other issues timing/noise wise. Glad we will have these videos to reference! My only question is if there's a process to re-installing the roller/followers. I need to find more info on that, but I'm looking forward to getting into it!

[@iambeeman1]

My parts should be here tomorrow. Can't wait to start and have the damn thing running properly.

[@TheNuclearBolton]

Any luck? Some guy spent 2 months trying to fix mine and I drove my truck for about 35 minutes and my engine locked up and made a horrific grinding sound... spent $2000 and have a couple pieces of trim missing from my engine bay... a nut missing from my passenger side strut, and my truck smells like cigarettes... the damn thing is worse than before... used to, I’d just have a knocking issue with the chain due to the hydraulic tensioner... My amp power cable was also cut off -___- I am going backwards at this point

[@sean3836]

Pre-watching the series now. Have a 2010 F150 FX4, with only 82,000km's on the engine that idles like a diesel when fully warmed up and threatens to stall sometimes unless I rev it up. Original owner, and have only deviated from the oil changes in terms of time (never went past km's). Still, I have a feeling I'll be needing to do this. Guessing I'll be picking up the M360HV as well.

[@JoelMotaPhoto]

Ive been watching ALOT of your Videos Brian! I have an 09 f150 Runs great but i have no history regarding timing maintenance so I am going ahead with a full timing job + Oil Pump, also replacing the rocker Cam followers so I wouldn't have to go back in there in the future. Parts Bill is going to be fun (not). Thanks for your wisdom.

[@oscarcrespo9365]

I really love videos like this one. Very detailed going the process and well explained. I really appreciated this fantastic job your doing for people out there. Thank you.

[@jasongomez2513]

Just done time chain install and this 4 part video is the best on the web thanks again for this alot of dealer level techs wouldn't do this

[@randybrill5071]

I admit I must take my hat off to you, so much stuff that needs to be removed and put back the right way. You take great care in doing just that. You make it look easy but not for the faint heart. Lol. Keep it up you give the engine tech a goo name.

[@williamdodson7132]

just followed your series to do a timing job on 03 4.6l 2 valve expedition I am a novice and it worked out great running like new thanks

[@davidkitchen5481]

Hello just wanted to say thank you so much for this video I put you up on my laptop and did the complete timing kit water pump oil pump cam phasers everything primed oil pump exactly like you did truck runs great could not thank you enough if your ever in Indiana on the Hoosier heartland let me know and I get you a cold drink thanks again !!!

[@randybahrerb]

Did you have to buy all the tools in the description or could you make it through normal tools?

[@davidkitchen5481]

@@randybahrerb I just sought the timing tool kit off Amazon there are two tools in the kit that is very important the one you put on the main pully cause it lines the timing perfect and then the little cam phaser holder so you can un bolt the cam phaser and in stall I think the hardest thing was the bolt for the oil pump but all in all not bad

[@randybahrerb]

@@davidkitchen5481 awesome, I appreciate the response. Just wasn’t sure if I’d even be saving money doing it myself if I had to get a couple hundred dollars worth of tools to do it

[@SGDeGalvez]

To whom it may concern..Just got the M12 Milwaukee impact (3/8). Removed 105lb/ft lug nut. Struggled, but took it off in a bout 8-10 seconds. I'd say that was about its limit. (I just did one, so maybe a bit light on the test group, but there you have it).

[@Jbyrd75901]

“This video is not for entertainment purposes” almost 1/2 a millions views later... he is definitely on to something

[@natanieljames1026]

It’s because everyone had to re watch like 10 times to figure out how they messed up😂

[@Jacob1986]

I enjoy his attention to detail!

[@Jbyrd75901]

@@natanieljames1026 10x for each 5.4 3v job they do

[@rogermendoza6150]

Thank you sir for taking the time to show us how this job is done

[@christopherbrown5207]

Great videos. There is no need to leave the crank sensor unplugged to prevent engine starting. If you depress the accelerator to the floor when cranking, the engine will not start. I do this after every oil change or if the vehicle has been sitting for some time.

[@bigmodsgarage]

Thank you so much for the walkthrough.. you made me the man of the hour at my shop this week!

[@hickindustries7076]

Its wierd even though mine is a 2v i find videos like this entertaining

[@karmonics]

You are the man. A veritable god send. Thank you for all the work you've put into this. If you were in my area, I would bring you my truck so you could do the work.

[@mr.spanks4056]

I just want to say to FordTechMakuloco thank you very much. Just started my truck after doing the whole entire four part video on timing Chain. Brother, I am very happy with how you are so clear in each one of your projects on a Ford F-150.

[@ChiefMugambu]

Hey there! A couple added issues that the video vehicle didn't have: I just spent an hour removing my harmonic balancer. There were no threaded holes to use a standard puller and bolts. First time I've seen that. Had to put pressure between the balancer and front cover while tapping the balancer with a hammer. Took forever. I see that OTC makes a smaller diameter three prong puller that uses no bolts, except the forcing screw. Would have come in handy--provided that the "legs" could actually fit behind the 3 damper spokes. It's pretty tight. ALSO: My 2010 FX4 5.4L has a plastic wire shield that is held on by two items: One is the lower front passenger side nut closest to the oil pan, the other is a small bolt about halfway down the oil pan towards the rear. The plastic shield must be removed before the front cover will come off.

[@billybrowning2239]

gotta do this real soon. Just changed my oil today and found a small plastic piece in the oil from the timing guides. Gonna go ahead and lockout the phasers while I'm at it.

[@Jonathanmoguel]

alot of work on ford 5.4! im doing one on a 2001 f150 2v front timing cover. much more than a LS 5.3! dont understand ford engineers .. good video btw makes working on these cars much easier

[@helimech28]

Brian. 10 months ago my passenger upper timing chain guide snapped on my 05' Lincoln Navigator. My cam phasers always had the dreaded tick too. I figured at 135k on the odometer it was time to do this. I followed every instruction you provided. Great instructional video BTW. The Navigator was quiet and ran better than it ever did. The problem is now its 10 months later and the exact same timing chain guide snapped. I have to go back in and replace the guide and tensioner in the passenger bank... (oh the humanity!!). My question is how could this have happened?

[@robertconrad7528]

Thank you! I just finished the complete job. This is a huge job for one person. I’ll be selling the tools as I will never do it again! Lol. The 04 f150 must be the worst of the bunch...I’ll trade it in before attempting again..

[@blafishing7581]

How much was were the tools? How much are you going to get for them ? Just curious... Damn if you did it once you can do it again. I know it probably isn't easy but once i complete a job at least i know then i can do it again much easier... Congrats on finishing anyway.

[@robertconrad7528]

BLA Fishing it’s just the valve spring compressor, crankshaft positioning tool and the phaser locking tool. Probably $90 total.. I agree that it’d be MUCH easier the second time but I doubt I would do it again.. time for a new truck next time! I really runs great now though.. 😀

[@coyotemancowboy4713]

Blood, sweat, gears... add foul language and throwing socket/wrench combinations into the drywall of my garage. When I work on this truck, it's either a piece of cake or an outright disaster. Every exhaust manifold stud came out w/o issue except one on a header install. Now I'm pulling heads since I found your vid. This is great. I don't have any of the common 5.4 noises, and I won't... because you took the time to do this, and I'm all for preventative maintenance. Some cams, headers, and catless pipes will wake my 2006 5.4 pig back up. I had to pull my oil pan to get the damn oil dipstick tube out. Because it broke during removal. That really pissed me off.

[@cwagner122]

That 90 degree inpact is 🔥 headed to order one now

[@dannypalmer7701]

Im your best fan .i watch all your videos everyday! My Ford is down right now.

[@Russdaddy007]

Great Video, exactly what I was looking for!

[@jeremylaxton7317]

Already know this guy is smart, using milwaukee cordless

[@cwagner122]

I adore my m12 stubby impact wrench best $100 ive spen in a long time

[@jefflumpkin7643]

You are a true inspiration for me and my brother. Thanks and keep up the awesome work. As if the work itself is not hard enough, you make it look easy while engaged in tele-production. We are presently attempting to remedy timing issues with the FORD TRITON 5.4L. Here are our questions, Why do you show removal instructions for cam followers during this 5.4L Engine timing chain replacement series? Must I remove the cam follower to lock the camshaft in position for removal and installation of Cam Phaser? Thanks much...

[@barthelms7681]

Thank you very much for the video. Im going to watch this a few times through before delving into this journey. Its very much appreciated. Great job

[@billrimmer5596]

Love your videos. That is a really rough job that u make look easy!! U r the best!!!

[@terrylarotonda784]

Wow, Houston we have a problem. Stuff gets complicated if you don't do it everyday. Great job explaining

[@mattgraham4340]

Thanks for the great videos. Here are my notes from just having done a 2005 expedition: -It is possible to R+R the passenger side valve cover on this vehicle without evacuating the AC. I removed the VCT solenoid before removing the valve cover, and installed the valve cover before replacing the VCT solenoid. I used the strap portion of ratchet strap to raise the refrigerant lines near the firewall a bit while re-installing the valve cover. Just hand tension times 2, not using the ratchet mechanism. -I also loosened the retaining bolt on the transmission dipstick tube. Not sure if necessary, but seemed to provide some more wiggle room. -I did remove the quick disconnect coolant Y-hose to the heater cores. Surprisingly the O-rings were still nice and pliable. Replacement QD kits available on ebay as E69Z-18D434-A and E69Z-18D434-B Presumably, the B part supersedes the A part. Doorman appears to have retrofit compatible parts as well (I think 800-403, because 800-404 was too large for this application on my vehicle) . Cleaned off the deposits, then greased the male tube end and all the O-rings with silicone grease before re-assembly. You must make sure to that the ears (release levers) on the male end white component are in the same orientation as the side holes of the female portion of the QD connector before reinserting. -I did not have an appropriate socket for knocking the crankshaft seal into the front cover, so I used a small piece of wood and knocked it in from the back side. -I used the plastic shim trick to immobilize the camshafts, since I did not wind up removing roller followers. -For a bit I thought I could remove the power steering pump pulley with a hex key wrench. Nope, requires some weird puller. -I primed the oil pump with a spin on filter adapter. Primed the upper engine with it also, but most of upper oil ran back out before I could get the new filter on (Duh). Oh well, I suppose it's no more dry run time than when you do a normal oil change. -The flexhead ratcheting wrenches are the bomb. I bought a cheapo set, and they worked fairly well, just way more backlash than gearwrench which makes them much less efficient when working in tight quarters. Now, I'm going to try my luck at an electric fan conversion. I don't do any towing, so maybe they will be able to keep up.

[@haywardsautomotive6156]

Nice video Brian! Your viewers are going to like this series!

[@Wooley689]

I just found this great channel. This gives a huge insight to why working on newer vehicles cost so much. Are there any videos for 2011 to 2011 GT Mustangs?

[@CraigThomas2070]

The bracket on the F150 that holds the Power steering reservoir is a real pain to get out. The two front nuts are no problem but the one underneath is a monster to get to and get enough leverage to break it loose. Recommendations? What I have tried: hitting it from underneath the truck and cant get a good bite. Got a bite with a ratchet from the top but no swing. Finally I removed the reservoir and my half inch breaker bar was too long so I kept coming off the head.

[@bryandavis341]

You are the Ford whisperer. Lol. Great videos thanks so much you are a great resource.

[@AntoineFinch]

Man you wont believe this but followed your instructions and had everything going great, until i decided to recheck bots and snapped the top guide bolt off on the passenger side, wish me luck on getting it out what a knuckle head

[@FordTechMakuloco]

+Antoine Finch No torque wrench?

[@AntoineFinch]

yep was trying to torque to 10 ft pounds but it snapped with first click?

[@AntoineFinch]

but got it out and replaced the bolt lucky me easy peazee

[@dannypalmer7701]

Showing and pointing and showing bolts to camera is nice to know!

[@baronclime6423]

Get a set of the harbor freight hose pliers. Despite their origin they are very good for the money and very useful for odd things that are hard to reach when you have comically large hands like mine. I've not broken them or bent them yet and I have not been very kind to them a few times.

[@baqashahmath1566]

Awesome very detailed video Im like to know where can I buy the 5.4l V8 engine rebuild kit any good suggestions?

[@jaybo516]

Bout ready to just drive my truck to you from South Ga !