Forging A Woodsman's Axe; Bushcraft / Sawyers Small Ax, Blacksmithing, Axemaking

[@norman1826]

both of them look very cool bro ....good job ....

[@FireCreekForge]

Thank you!

[@johnrossiter3185]

Possibly use a brine quench which is quicker and less prone to steam bubbles that slow the cooling.

[@richardbryant7972]

Great video, great product as always thank you so much for sharing. God bless

[@FireCreekForge]

Thank you I appreciate it!

[@Smootus]

Watching this is so educational…. And intense,setting the hole, shaping….hammering the blade, more intense than knife making. Thanks for posting this video

[@FireCreekForge]

You bet, thanks for watching!

[@timbrownblacksmithandknife5648]

Looking good. I think the touch mark on the blade section looks better. For the eye section you could maybe try just upset the back section down say 1/2 an inch. That would give you a little more width.

[@sayyang767]

You do good job. If I am in your area I will buy one for my home use.

[@outbackladas]

Really nice little axes! As I have spent many years in the Australian bush using axes to both ring bark and “tordon “ (a method of poisoning) trees perhaps my opinion could help. You’re right, the handles are perhaps a bit long for that size and weight head. The size head those axes have make them ideal “poisoning “ axes which need a shorter handle. For the type of work you have described I would prefer a larger heavier head for that length handle. However, in saying that, they’re very well made, especially like the one with the slightly curved handle, top job! When you master making smaller axes, try making a “speed “ axe as used in international wood chopping competitions. If you can make one of those types of axes you’ll have really achieved something! Enjoyed the video, regards from Down Under.

[@FireCreekForge]

Thanks for the tips!

[@timbrownblacksmithandknife5648]

You can also try brine (salt water) for the quench. Its a bit better than water in the quench because the vapour jacket is less. I use brine for my 1055 hammers.

[@FireCreekForge]

Yeah, that would be a good option

[@user-pk2fg8im4u]

Really appreciate how these look! Personally am drawn to the traditional curved handle, maybe because that is what I have used for so long. A straight handle feels right for a sledge, but in my imagination, I think driving wedges when felling, a curved handle would be easier to index in your hand. Especially when stacking wedges and driving them alternately. Maybe just me, but the main gist of this is that those are really impressive, great job!

[@FireCreekForge]

Thanks I appreciate it!

[@billwoehl3051]

When punching with the press, instead of guessing if you're straight, why not have something that the stock indexes against making sure it's exactly where you want it? Like a c shape for the "hammer" side, and a couple tabs closer to you, allowing the punched/drifted area the room it needs to expand.

[@FireCreekForge]

That might work.

[@gurvinderkau1e5w18]

Axes look cool👍👍🔥🔥

[@FireCreekForge]

Thanks

[@DavidEricWilliams]

Nice!

[@FireCreekForge]

Thanks!

[@lukelofgren4108]

I've had the same problem with ¾" stock of 4140. I actually ened up using it to make a large wrapped eye axe but I haven't got a press or power hammer so it's still being forged slowly. Elijah when you are fitting the head and shaping the handle put a piece of tape over that edge, unless you want your fingers to be like mine, riddled with scars and can't quite feel the way you used to. I'm sure you know what I mean. Otherwise great job and am impressed you turned out those nice axes from ¾ stock

[@lukelofgren4108]

I looked at your website to send you a feew pictures of my work so you could critique but I couldn't email you pictures. I would like to see what you think of the ones I've made but I can't post a link to here. My shop on etsy is ToolHandLuke if you want to check it out.

[@FireCreekForge]

@@lukelofgren4108 go ahead and send me an email on the contact form and I'll reply with my email address then you can send me pics of your work. Thanks for watching, you're right, taping the edge is a good idea.

[@widowmak3r813]

Any chance of a video explaining what each of your press dyes do? I noticed you using a dye that’s different than any of the others for these axes specifically. Just kind of curious why and how you choose which dye to use for which application. Obviously they all do different things to shape the steel. Just a curious fan. Absolutely love your work and the detail you give. Super enlightening.

[@FireCreekForge]

that's a possibility, thanks for watching

[@chrisokeeffe7624]

Profesional Red nake. lol is that like a jack of all triads. Had to misspell YT keep deleting.

[@FireCreekForge]

Haha pretty much!

[@garrettmandujano2996]

Would you make any competition axes? 8 inch wide blade 8 inch long head?

[@FireCreekForge]

Maybe eventually

[@billwoehl3051]

Noticed that when you were shaping the edge of the blades, you're not moving back and forth across the width of the belt, doesn't this wear a groove in the belt?🤔

[@FireCreekForge]

It would eventually I suppose

[@breakawaybooks4752]

3/4" bar might be easier to punch if you pre-drilled a hole? Would save you money from having to grind away all that metal from 1 inch. Might end up with smaller yet thicker cheeks in the end, with less handling time / heats over all.

[@FireCreekForge]

Actually the steel is forged down during the process, so the extra width isn't a problem in that respect, it's actually preferable..

[@aloberdorf4579]

A friend recently made me a small bearded ax, about Mouse Hawk size...I love it, and when I was Professionally tripping timber it would have been wonderful...only problem is I have this burning desire to try to throw it....but am fearful of damaging a piece of art............

[@FireCreekForge]

Sounds neat!

[@astormofwrenches5555]

Can you do handles out of other woods?

[@FireCreekForge]

Yes but hickory is the strongest as far as I know

[@outbackladas]

American hickory is world renowned as being the best handle material by far. Here in Australia we have often used a timber called “spotted gum” for handles, it’s a type to eucalyptus, but it’s certainly inferior to hickory. Hickory doesn’t splinter up, even when it dries out, plus it’s flexible, which makes it superior handle material.

[@riledupblades2227]

I have heard that water quenches leave the steel with cracks and can make steel brittle because of how much heat it saps so quickly. Can you provide more insight to this?

[@FireCreekForge]

That depends on the type of steel. Some steels won't harden without a water or equivalent quench, where as other steels would shatter mid quench if water is used. Medium carbon steels are in the first group; high carbon and high alloy steels would be in the second group.

[@riledupblades2227]

@@FireCreekForge Guess that water quench didn't go to well

[@riledupblades2227]

@@FireCreekForge But everything is a learning experience!

[@ВикторияШевченко-с1м]

Dont water!!! Only oil.

[@timothybrown1849]

How much do you get on the woodsman axe 🪓, and I like the curved handle