Fox Float RP2 / RP23 Rear Shock Full Service

Full service of a Fox Float RP2 and RP23 rear shock. I demonstrate disassembly, seal replacement, oil change, and reassembly of the shock.
Seal kits and the tools for completing this and other similar rebuilds can be found at www.mtb-hydrau... .
We also run suspension service mechanic courses in Whistler and North Vancouver, BC, Canada. Get in touch for further info on these or visit www.mtb-hydrau... .
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[@sinisakovac2978]

Pro Pedal is not working on my RP23 was toying with idea of doing service myself but after watching this video oh boy am gonna send it to someone with knowledge and tools to do it right

[@sidney9534]

Yesss, as an owner of old clapped out bike, I appreciate this!

[@adamjanuszkiewicz9986]

Thenks again ror the movie .You need to have more subscriptions

[@jean-noelschmitz3061]

Impressive, thank you !

[@dummiemann]

Something is leaking out or dripping oil when I turn my rebound clockwise and my propedal get loose now. I think there is no oil left and there is creaking sound. Now I know my problem is after watching this video. Thanks.

[@simonszoke1479]

Yes, common issue.

[@sidney9534]

2:49 instead of the expensive Fox tool, you can just modify an allen key - shorten it and cut a slit in it. It's a little more awkward, but if you're a low income punk, it will do.

[@mikesoultanian8050]

Thanks for the suggestion! I'm guessing you cut a slit in the side of the allen key that gets inserted and slide the needle through the slit into the plug? Also, why do you need to shorten the allen key? I'm just looking at what tools I need to do my GF's RP23 and I'm all about saving money, especially on an old shock!

[@sidney9534]

@mikesoultanian8050 shortened so the needle passes through straight. You'll visualize it when putting together. Good luck

[@mikesoultanian8050]

@@sidney9534 Ok, I get it. I thought the needle can pass through at an angle, but if not, then it makes sense to shorten the short portion of the key and then cut a slot in the side of it for the needle to align straight up and down. Do you happen to know what size allen key? I haven't opened it up just yet...

[@sidney9534]

@@mikesoultanian8050 I think it's 4 or 5, normal common size, good luck

[@mikesoultanian8050]

@@sidney9534 I just happened to watch another RP23 rebuild video and I saw the modified allen key you suggested! kzbin.info/www/bejne/f6HIkn-Bo5yYh9Usi=Qua-qZdre5j-btTi&t=86

[@kanukster]

I have both the RP 2 and the RP 23. The RP 23 has no travel. The shaft has retracted inwards. I replaced it with the RP 2. It was supposed to have been serviced. But, the lock-out doesn't seem to be working.

[@simonszoke1479]

The RP23 is just stuck down it sounds like. It happens when the air can cannot equalize because of dirt inside the shock or something. t is an easy fix, but most likely it needs a full service regardless. The lockout not working can be a few different problems.

[@LukaszManelski-dy5cz]

What oil capacity should i put in my rp2

[@rasmus80g]

The lockout not working does it usually get fixed by a fullservice like this? Don know how the lockout actually works but I guess it closes some valve and not actually lock like forcing in a pin in somewhere after watching this...

[@simonszoke1479]

Yes, forces a pin into an opening. It is usually caused by aerated oil and a full service will resolve that.

[@quintusblack9112]

Salute and thank you for all the important details on this video. I kindly ask for a bit of advise if it's pissible. Just doing the full service on a Float RP2 Boostalve ( boost valve tune 175) but without changing all the inner rubber sealings because they were not provided in the Fox kit that I purchased. After setting my IFP to 5.7 mm deep, changing all the seals that I had, and after changing the oil to a rockshox 7.5 WT, I have now a "dang" every time the shock returns to it's full lenght. The rebound is working, as does the propedal. Ifp pressure is set to 400 psi vs 200 psi for the air chamber. It sounds like a bottom out but on the way up. I guess this is my fault, but I can't figure out were am I missing the point. Thank you for your advise in advance. Alex

[@simonszoke1479]

You are not pushing oil through the piston, so the rebound damping cannot function. The piston just open a vacuum behind it as if it was solid, so during the rebound stroke it has no damping. Thus the uncontrolled rebound. Not sure what the issue is in your case. The most obvious cause is incorrect IFP pressure. Have you tried inflating the IFP to the correct pressure (175 psi)?

[@quintusblack9112]

Thank you a lot, I will try it tomorrow and I'll let you know

[@alhouko]

I'm guessing you have air in the damping portion, didn't cycle to get all the air out. As the shock extends it encounters an air pocket at the top providing no resistance but instead a jump to the shock cap

[@alexguiver815]

Excellent vid, thanks for posting!! I'm servicing a 2007 Triad using one of your other vids for reference and I've mislaid the steel detent ball @8.40 in the end of the lockout actuator rod where it contacts the adjuster cam. I have some 1/16" (1.59mm) balls which seem to fit into the recess on the rod quite snugly; it stays in the rod if you hold it upside down but if you drop the rod on a bench top from about 6", the ball falls out. Would you possibly know the correct size for this ball? And does IFP pressure push the rod firmly against the adjuster cam and retain the ball? If so that would be great, it's only because you mentioned it in this vid that I checked otherwise I would have missed it, built the entire shock and got a nasty surprise. Thanks again!!

[@simonszoke1479]

The 1/16" ball bearing is close enough. I think the stock one is either 1.5 mm or 1/16" (newer model years are 1.5 mm for sure). The ball is pushed outwards against the adjuster cam by the IFP pressure, so it won't have a chance to fall out.

[@alexguiver815]

@@simonszoke1479 Thank you so much for your reply, means I can get on and build my shock. Thanks again!!

[@messagedeleted1922]

Was rebuilding an old 2009 fox talus a few days ago and found it was missing a rebound knob detent ball (or its somewhere on my floor). I have autism and its good for some things like just knowing I had seen a 1/16 detent ball somewhere in something. So I combed my junk drawer and found an old pocket sized socket wrench I had randomly found on the road years before. And lo and behold it had the exact same sized detent ball. So. If you have any old busted ratchets check to see if they have the right sized detent ball. Never hurts to have extras.

[@julyheinify]

hi Simon, thanks for your video!! No nitrogen on the hydraulic chamber? 🤘

[@simonszoke1479]

Air is 78% nitrogen. Works fine.

[@julyheinify]

@@simonszoke1479 Thx!!

[@alhouko]

You absolutely should be using straight nitrogen as an inert gas. Although little, regular air will change pressure as it gets hot. We rebuild race shocks and there is no substitute for nitrogen.

[@simonszoke1479]

@@alhouko How come the latest OEM service manual uses air if it's so critical? tech.ridefox.com/bike/service-procedures/2910/2024-float-rebuild Also nobody that I've seen uses nitrogen in their air can, which gets equally hot.

[@alhouko]

@@simonszoke1479 I'm not saying you can't, and probably because most people don't have a nitrogen setup available. I am saying when they go to Fox they get nitro and it is preferred. You stay with your dynamically changing gas and I'll stay with my inert one.

[@miyongskytv.7473]

my bike is a 2013 model and it's just stock at home because my rear suspension is no longer loaded with air. what is the possible reason and what needs to be done to fix my rear suspension. Thank you, I hope you can help me with my problem. my suspension is fox rp23 boost valve. 160

[@simonszoke1479]

Replacing the seals and oil will fix it if there is no damage to the shock such as scratches on the sealing surfaces or dents.

[@huhupoklop5970]

Hi Simon, could you pls share link for the amazon/aliexpress bleed tool? I have the same one, but the adaptors are not compatible with shocks... thX

[@simonszoke1479]

Not sure which bleed tool you need since it's just an assembly bleed on this one. I am using this in the video, but any syringe will work. www.mtb-hydraulics.com/product-page/suspension-brake-bleed-syringe-with-m5-fitting

[@huhupoklop5970]

@@simonszoke1479 im more interessted in for ex fox X2 or Cane Creek bleed syringe adapters

[@james.8985]

Why does the pellet retainer tool have thread at one end?

[@sidney9534]

I think that's just for a handle.

[@simonszoke1479]

You know it@@sidney9534

[@mikesoultanian8050]

Is there a way to figure out what model of RP23 I have? I'm trying to figure out where to set the IFP. I purchased the rebuild seal kit and I set it to 2.4" per the video, but it seems like there are different depth settings for different models of the RP23, and I'm not sure what I have. Mine did not hydro lock like in the video. Also, my shock is a boost model. Thanks!

[@simonszoke1479]

You can look at the Float CTD IFP depth here: www.ridefox.com/fox17/help.php?m=bike&id=77 Yours will be close to these values. However, the problem with setting IFP depths is that you can displace the IFP when you flip the piston into the shock body. This is what I do when I'm not sure of the IFP depth. I thread the shock together dry and fully compress it. This sets the IFP depth so the piston is barely touching it when fully compressed. However, the volumetric displacement of introducing the shaft into the shock body when it's actually filled with oil will displace the IFP deeper than it did with the dry assembly. Anyway, after dry assembly and compressing, carefully and slowly extended the shock so the piston doesn't create vacuum and pull out the IFP. This way the IFP is set. Then fill the shock with oil as regular, inflate the IFP, and test. If the shock hydrolocks, I crack open the bleed port and let some oil out, then check if it hydrolocks. Repeat until it no longer hydrolocks. You gotta be thorough with this method for it to be safe! However, it is physically possible to set the IFP by feel basically.

[@mikesoultanian8050]

@@simonszoke1479 So, one problem I'm having is knowing what model I have on the chart - there are no markings on the shock so I can't look up the values. So in my case, when I installed it at 2.4", it didn't hydrolock. I guess my first question is what's the downfall of having the IFP too high? Does it just end up contacting the piston? I was thinking what if I were to set the IFP really low, fill it up with oil, assemble, and pump up the IFP chamber. Then check for hydrolock (which I'm assuming it would), and then follow your hydrolock method until it no longer hydrolocks and call it good - to me that seems like it would get the IFP to the best possible position? Maybe? Thanks!

[@simonszoke1479]

@@mikesoultanian8050 You just need to measure the size of the shock when assembled to determine which "model" it is. Distance between the shock eyelet centers and shock travel is what you need to know. The IFP being too high will cause it to contact the piston as you guessed. If you bottom out the IFP in the shock body and purge out oil until it doesn't hydrolock is a good method. I believe one of the Manitou shocks uses that as the official service procedure.

[@mikesoultanian8050]

@@simonszoke1479 Yeah, I figured the latter method (bottom out the IFP and purge) is a bit wasteful of the oil, but it would get me where I need to be. Thanks for the help - now that I have it assembled I'll take some measurements and see if I can figure out what model it is. It would be nice to know how far off I am from the manufacturer's specs. One other thing - just to confirm... my shock says "Boost Valve Tune 150" on the body, so I'm setting the IFP chamber pressure to 150PSI, correct?

[@simonszoke1479]

@@mikesoultanian8050 yes, the 150 is the ifp pressure in psi.