Frederic Malle Uncut Gem perfume review on Persolaise Love At First Scent episode 318

#LoveAtFirstScent #Perfume #Persolaise #PerfumeReview #FredericMalle
Please consider supporting my work by 'buying me a coffee' here: ko-fi.com/persolaise -- Thank you!
Episode 318 of Love At First Scent
This was a KZbin Live broadcast streamed on Monday 10th October 2022. Unscripted. Unedited. Unrehearsed.
In this episode, I was reviewed the new Frederic Malle Uncut Gem, composed by Maurice Roucel.
Introduction 0:00
Frederic Malle Uncut Gem 4:40
-
Here’s the blotter update…
- I’m smelling the blotter as I compose these words, and honestly, I’m tempted to do what someone in the video audience suggested: just type the word ‘shrug.’ But I wouldn’t do that to you. So I will say that, as you’d expect, the ambery-woods are much more prominent - and less appealing - in the base, pushing the whole into the territory of fairly generic masculines. The fresh brightness of the opening - a result of the ginger note, I expect - can still be detected in the relative ‘openness’ of the musks. The overall effect is simplistic and uninvolving. Crucially, it’s also not especially distinctive, which is a criticism that can rarely be levelled at Malle.
--
[Sample provided by the brand.]
--
Top 10 best Chanel perfumes: • Top 10 Best Chanel Per...
Top 5 best Chanel exclusives: • Top 5 Best Chanel Excl...
Top 10 best Tom Ford perfumes: • Top 10 Best Tom Ford P...
Top 5 best Penhaligon's perfumes: • Top 5 Best Penhaligon’...
Top 7 best Serge Lutens perfumes: • Top 7 Best Serge Luten...
Top 10 best perfumes of 2021: • Top 10 Best Perfumes O...
Top 10 best perfumes of 2020: • Top 10 Best Perfumes O...
Top 10 best perfumes of the decade 2010-2019: • Best Perfumes Of The D...
Top 10 best masculines of the last 5 years: • Top 10 Best Masculine ...
Top 10 best Frederic Malle perfumes: • Top 10 Best Frederic M...
Top 10 best perfumes for women: • Top 10 Perfumes For Wo...
Top 10 best perfumes for men: • My Top 10 Perfumes on ...
Top 10 best perfumes on me: • Top 10 best perfumes o...
Top 10 best perfumes for summer 2021: • Top 10 Best Perfumes F...
Top 10 best perfumes for autumn 2021: • Top 10 Perfumes For Au...
Top 10 best perfumes for winter 2021: • Top 10 best perfumes f...
Top 10 best perfumes for spring 2022: • Top 10 Best Perfumes F...
Top 10 best alternative perfumes for summer 2022: • Top 10 Best Alternativ...
Top 10 best cooling perfumes for summer 2022: • Top 10 best cooling pe...
Top 10 perfumes for autumn 2022: • Top 10 Perfumes For Au...
Top 10 best perfumes for spring: • Top 10 Perfumes For Sp...
Top 10 best patchouli perfumes: • Top 10 Best Patchouli ...
Top 10 best rose perfumes: • Top 10 Best Rose Perfu...
Top 10 best jasmine perfumes: • Top 10 Best Jasmine Pe...
Top 10 best iris perfumes: • Top 10 Best Iris Perfu...
Top 10 best vetiver perfumes: • Top 10 Best Vetiver Pe...
Top 10 best incense perfumes: • Top 10 Best Incense Pe...
Top 10 best spice perfumes: • Top 10 best spice perf...
Top 10 best green perfumes: • Top 10 Best Green Perf...
Top 10 daring perfumes: • Top 10 Daring, Courage...
Top 10 underrated perfumes • Top 10 Underrated Perf...
Top 10 best romantic perfumes: • Top 10 best romantic p...
Top 10 best perfumes for Valentine's Day 2022: • Top 10 Best Perfumes F...
Top 10 best exciting perfumes: • Top 10 Best Exciting P...
Top 10 best happy perfumes: • Top 10 Best Happy Perf...
--
Persolaise is not affiliated in any way to any brands*, wholesalers, retailers or organisations involved with the fragrance industry. All reviews are entirely independent. Content is never 'sponsored' by any external agencies. Some reviews are based on samples provided by brands; others are based on samples obtained by the author. This has no bearing on the content of the reviews.
[* In November 2020, I was commissioned to complete a writing project by the brand Amouage. The project may or may not have a bearing on the scents released by the brand from 2021 onwards. At the time of writing this note, my intention is to continue mentioning and reviewing all Amouage scents released up to the end of 2020, except in posts/articles where perfumes from several brands are included and presented as part of a selection/collection (eg ‘best of’ posts and lists).]
Copyright 2022 Dariush Alavi and Parfums Persolaise. All rights reserved.

[@tripthipillai445]

Persolaise, please do a top ten of perfumes that have been harbingers of the "future." So, a top ten ahead of their times fragrances that have taught us a thing or two about scent.

[@Persolaise]

Thanks for the idea. And thanks for watching.

[@FrazzledVirgo]

Oooo nice

[@powderipowder]

Love all these episodes of love at first scent. The true gem of youtube.

[@Persolaise]

That's very kind -- thank you.

[@nastyfyme]

Amazing review as always Mr P. ❤️ Pure class 👌

[@Persolaise]

Very kind - thank you.

[@shirleycantoni3152]

Did I ever tell you that your reviews and tidbits along the way is most enjoyable. And, great energy to ☺️

[@Persolaise]

Ah, that’s very kind, thanks.

[@CaroCoffee123]

Oh well. I still see so many greats in the FM lineup- they‘re allowed a flop from time to time and as long as they don’t butcher their classics I won’t write them off just yet! Recently I discovered Une Rose, now Rose Tonnere, which I always suspected to be a boring soliflore. Let’s just say that I felt like a complete and utter fool for believing there was nothing to add to that genre. How can something smell so delicate and menacing at the same time? Thanks for the video Mr P!

[@Persolaise]

I adore Une Rose, and actually I keep meaning to do a video about it. Thanks for watching.

[@ausland76]

oh! Une rose it's just a true masterpiece! One of the very best in FM and in whole parfumery world in my opinion. It's absolutely unique, complex and sophisticated. And actually it's not rose - it's around rose

[@JohmathanBSwift]

I love The English Patient. I'm so glad I watched it with my mother. Very fond memories. I remember my mother saying, "Eddie, how long is this movie". I said, "Not sure"; not thinking to check the sleeve. We ordered Chinese. I haven't seen The Talented Mr.Ripely. Bookmarked and thank you. Maybe Estee Lauder needs to sell more than just to us? I have a 2013 Musc Ravaguer which I adore. A few of their travel atomizers. I might get one of their sets. if I do, I'll see about a sample of Uncut Jem.

[@Persolaise]

The English Patient isn’t what you’d call a short film. But it’s gorgeous. Thanks for watching.

[@BonitoFlakes24]

I surprisingly really like Uncut Gem and see what they were going for but I do wish it had more roughness, more “uncut-ness” perhaps with more leather, more incense! I think it could have been done and still been appealing to the general public.

[@Persolaise]

Yes, that would have been interesting.

[@arthurvandamme7447]

Thanks so much for the video and your review, as always! Really appreciate an independent opinion we can trust in the social media community :) I am wondering if you ever tried Sale Gosse and what you think of it? I have a small sample of it and quite like it as the super easy-floating-cologne-like-with-a-twist-kind-of-perfume it is, although much too expensive for that. Already looking forward to the next love at first scent. Greetings from Belgium!

[@Persolaise]

Thanks very much for watching, Arthur. And no, I’ve never tried SG.

[@justaddlight]

Should've called it Cubic Zirconia. 😂 And sold it for £7? Oh no, the packaging, right. £10.

[@Persolaise]

I don’t know that one. I presume it’s very similar. Thanks for watching.

[@juliahe9016]

Lmao🤣 joke of the day

[@angelinegiselle]

Hello Mr P ! some thoughts that crossed my mind watching this video - 1) M Roucel ciukd have mellowed with age 2) we are increasingly working in open space so it must be getting more & more difficult for brands to pass any scent that is too « different » or distinctive that draws attention to the wearer 3) brands need to ensure that their releases sell so as per your film analogy, it’s true that trying to hit diverse markets will only make the product less polarising. it will be for the « everyman » with no standout personality. in societies where smaeness is preferred this is not at all negative. i’m wondering if there was a primary market this scent was aimed at before it’s disseminated through the general network. promise is a good example - it’s aimed primarily at the ME market so the profile follows a specific signature. if we (others not within the target demographic) happen to like it that’s bonus for the brand.

[@Persolaise]

Hi Angeline, these are all valid, excellent points - thank you. And yes, we can receive scents only through our own particular prisms, with our own perceptions and experiences. As always, thanks for watching.

[@olgadottir1528]

Thank you for the review, Mr. P. I didn't necessarily expect Uncut Gem to be extra revolutionary. To me, the name is an equivalent to the raw diamond. Until it's uncut, it looks like any other piece of rock. Being uninteresting at the first sight, it can work wonders with the right skin chemistry. On me, Dans Tes Bras works much better than POAL.

[@Persolaise]

Yes, I know DTB has many fans. Thanks for watching.

[@BonitoFlakes24]

You know what should have been called Uncut Gem? King Blue😂

[@Persolaise]

Thanks very much for watching 😊

[@belairscents]

A very fine review👌 thank you mate 🙏 things have changed since estee Lauder bought FM Fragrances, not in a good way! Their Fragrances have been all reformulated & watery downed! And their new releases are just mediocre👎 same thing happened to jp Guerlain when LVMH bought Guerlain! And Guerlain he was obliged to leave the house because of new rules imposed by LVMH! I bet the same will happen to FM🤔 Cheerio mate🥂

[@Persolaise]

Thanks very much for watching. I think the reasons for JPG leaving Guerlain were a bit more complicated.

[@belairscents]

@@Persolaise my pleasure👌 Guerlain left his own brand because he refused to be a puppet in the hand of LVMH! And that was told to me by a very close friend of jp Guerlain! Voilà😉 and the same thing will happen to FM because he's now just a manager & not the owner & he have to obey the orders coming from the estee Lauder group! That's a rule of the game! Cheerio🥂

[@belairscents]

@@Persolaise PS already the quality at Guerlain & FM has changed & altered! And we all know that well! And they put all the blames to new regulations by IFRA! Which is not true! Cheerio🥂😉 they just lowered the quality of their materials to make more money & more profits👎 shame!

[@ipurvi]

Very sad to hear that this one isn’t what we’ve come to expect from FM. Still adore the name though.

[@Persolaise]

Yes. Thanks for watching.

[@the_resourceful]

Happy Halloween, Sir✨

[@Persolaise]

And to you too :-)

[@arriiiaaaa]

The opening intrigued me; it immediately reminded me of a Commes des Garçons fragrance (not sure which, perhaps Zero?) but I can’t past the chemical-y chlorine-like accord that permeates the drydown. Honestly, if this was a CDG release instead of a Malle it would have made more sense.

[@Persolaise]

Interesting point. Many thanks for watching.

[@perroli]

Great review ! Do you intend to review H24 EDP in the near future ? I'd be interested to hear your thoughts about it.

[@Persolaise]

I would love to review it, but I need to get my hands on a few drops first.

[@jom6829]

Dull is not good and the question is why would FM release something that is underwhelming? I had heard, but cannot remember where, that Roucel didn't want to release it, which I now understand why.

[@Persolaise]

Let's see if paying customers find it underwhelming. Thanks for watching.

[@cheapimitation2242]

I've had this a few weeks and I'm really liking it! It is synthetic but doesn't smell overly "designer" or typical to me. It is kind of "one note" but I find that note to have a lot of facets that keep me interested, woody, fresh, sweet, resinous etc. I do find it has an addictive quality, the kind where I still smell it on my shirt from a few days ago and go "ahh what was I was wearing that day!".

[@Persolaise]

Ah, well, it’s good to know that it’s found some fans.

[@samtan4729]

I get the sense that if a designer like, say Burberry or Cartier were to bring this out instead, it would have been better received.

[@Persolaise]

That’s an interesting point. Many thanks for watching.

[@grigoreguzun5374]

I'm in love with Frederic Malle house. Uncut gem it's a good fragrance, not a masterpiece like POAL or Musc ravageur but it is good! I have bought 4 bottles 100ml each! Why? Because somebody here, in Madrid was selling them 2 bottles for 150€ each and for this price is a good purchase! After this another man was selling another 2 bottles for 130€ and 100€, like 90ml left and 80 ml left! I sayed if I bought for 150 i must buy this as well!

[@Persolaise]

I'm so pleased you like it.

[@rossmcfarlane6687]

I love 'promise' and 'music'. So not sorry.

[@Persolaise]

You absolutely don't need to be sorry. Many thanks for watching.

[@ztiwar]

Same here, I love both, but I can understand how some not getting them after the first try, both are bold & complex & took me repeated samplings for them to click.

[@rossmcfarlane6687]

@@ztiwar Bold and unusual is right up my alley. They were both love at first sniff for me

[@rossmcfarlane6687]

@@Persolaise Love your channel, Papa P.

[@klaas020]

and that from the brand that gave us such...ehm....gems in masculine perfumery: Geranium pour Monsieur, Vetiver Extraordinaire, French Lover, Cologne Bigarade, etc.... This smells suspiciously like Estee Lauder.....

[@Persolaise]

Then again, Lauder have given us plenty of gems under their own brand.

[@klaas020]

For sure.....but not recently......

[@tubereuse_criminelle]

Had a quick of it the other day. This modern nonsense base jumped out immediately, I couldn't forgive it to Roucel. Overall reminded me Baldessarini Ambre...🙄Good for the day, but not now..

[@Persolaise]

Yes, many of us seem to object to the base. Thanks for watching.

[@maudline]

This sounds quite disappointing compared to Synthtic Jungle which I had a chance finally to try last month and I really loved that one!

[@Persolaise]

Yes, that one is quite fascinating. Thanks for watching.

[@TheMrZanshin]

Awwwww shiiiiiiiiiiit. Here we go!

[@Persolaise]

Enjoy!

[@pauliusmatonis1492]

Greetings Mr. Persolaise. I am a fan of perfume, and a fan of yours. I am well aware of your dislike of house of Creed. And love of Frederic Malle. And i am well aware of Creed downfall to mediocrity in recent years. All that is clear. But... BUT. Can you honestly (and please do a smell off) tell me, that Creed Viking is "crap" and "Uncut gem" is "ok"? Thats just... I would just love to get your opinion, thank you!

[@Persolaise]

Thanks for watching, Paulius. All I can say is that my reactions to the two scents were 100% genuine. The FM did not repel me as much as the Creed. Having said that, I do think the FM becomes less and less palatable with time.

[@michaelomalley3403]

I feel like this is for women who love FM and want to buy something from the house their husband (who doesn’t have any interest in fragrance) could wear.

[@Persolaise]

That may well be right, Michael.

[@suleikahorz8651]

I found it extremely harsh and unpleasant. I couldn't put it on my skin. I love some perfumes Maurice Roucel created such as Insolence and Musc Ravageur. Here, I just have the feeling a pump-upped man coming straight of the fitness studio wears it. Very "body-builded". It's very aggressive and so many woody ambers, it's off-putting. Big disappointment from Frederic Malle.

[@Persolaise]

Interesting, because I don’t get that mega aggressiveness at all. I know that many do, though.

[@LiaAndrews]

Ouch! Worse than bad...boring. I have been revolted by certain scents: Secretions Magnifiques, Musc Tonkin, Maai, and Squid. I admire the artistry that created such a reaction. For example, Musc Tonkin i had the gestault of a person who hasn't bathed for months wearing tuberose perfume and freshly laundered clothes...quite a vibe.

[@Persolaise]

Yes, I’d rather have a strongly visceral reaction rather than an indifferent reaction.

[@shirleycantoni3152]

Now I need to try it, just to see how dull and boring it is. Curious 😅

[@Persolaise]

Please let me know what you think.

[@shirleycantoni3152]

@@Persolaise hopefully, it’s already here in Aussie Land 🙏

[@streliste8]

i have felling this will be Dior homme 2020 of Niche world , everyone hates it then everyone loves it

[@Persolaise]

Did everyone hate Dior Homme?

[@pradeep_sekar]

@@Persolaise 2020

[@Persolaise]

Ah okay… but hang on, everyone loves that one now??!

[@Frankhanzen]

FM said that Uncut Gem is a masterpiece on their Instsgram. Charming.

[@Persolaise]

Well, I'm sure some people will enjoy it. Thanks for watching.

[@mnsor79]

Omg, let's hope Frederic Malle's damage control strategy is not that of turning to Jeremy Fragrance for good pubblicity, lol. Still, I'm looking forward to try this.

[@Persolaise]

Now, there’s a thought!

[@ColeDano]

There's a relationship between how awful a perfume is perceived to be and it's price point. Haven't smelled this one but I'm ok with folks being a bit more demonstrative about this one.

[@Persolaise]

A good point. Thanks for watching.

[@Ashleybissett]

What is wrong with the sound?

[@Persolaise]

Oh dear, is the sound not very good? Sorry about that.

[@Ashleybissett]

Just crackles and pops, unlike the new Frederic Malle...

[@barkupatree6871]

persolaise, perhaps “boring uncut gem” would be commensurate with the qualities you describe!!😅😂😂

[@Persolaise]

Perhaps… 😉

[@aboutjujulia]

Omg, pls dont ruin this legendary brand🤞🏽

[@Persolaise]

I don’t think it’s ruined at all 😉

[@baratrion]

🤷🏻‍♂️🤷‍♂️🤷‍♂️

[@Persolaise]

😊

[@Once_WuZi]

The price range makes me think they are aiming for this to be the male POAL that sells well and defines the brand, but I suspect it'll just make original fans of the brand rather cynical of both the story and marketing for FM going forward :/

[@Persolaise]

You may well be right.

[@miguel9828]

Big disappointment for such a venerable brand. I was struck as to how closely it smells like Bulgari’s Tygar (I think that is the one in the line). Ambroxan = generic modern trash.

[@Persolaise]

Ah, I should dig that one out again. Thanks for watching.

[@evabrunson8413]

Love the description, boring, etc…. Will avoid….

[@Persolaise]

Thanks for watching.

[@OtisF96]

It strikes me as a fragrance for people who don't like fragrances, similarly to how the Conjuring horror films are for people who don't like horror films.

[@Persolaise]

I don't know those movies. And I guess you're saying I shouldn't seek them out.

[@OtisF96]

I respect and admire you too much to mislead you, Mr P, you deserve better than those films! I loved the review, I will try this one, but I'll go in with appropriately low expectations.