Frederic Malle Heaven Can Wait perfume review on Persolaise Love At First Scent episode 390

#LoveAtFirstScent #Perfume #Persolaise #PerfumeReview #FredericMalle
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[Sample provided by the brand. Persolaise is not affiliated in any way to any brands*, wholesalers, retailers or organisations involved with the fragrance industry. All reviews are entirely independent. Content is never 'sponsored' by any external agencies. Some reviews are based on samples provided by brands; others are based on samples obtained by the author. This has no bearing on the content of the reviews.]
Episode 390 of Love At First Scent
This was a KZbin Live broadcast streamed on Wednesday 30th August 2023. Unscripted. Unedited. Unrehearsed.
In this episode, I reviewed the new Frederic Malle Heaven Can Wait, composed by Jean-Claude Ellena.
Introduction 0:00
Frederic Malle Heaven Can Wait (Jean-Claude Ellena) 4:07
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[* Since November 2020, I have been commissioned by Amouage to complete various projects, some of which have had a bearing on the scents released by the brand from 2021 onwards. At the time of writing this note, my intention is to continue mentioning and reviewing all Amouage scents released up to the end of 2020, except in posts/articles where perfumes from several brands are included and presented as part of a selection/collection.]
Copyright 2023 Dariush Alavi and Parfums Persolaise. All rights reserved.

[@rcrevolution]

I hope your reviews are available in heaven, otherwise it can wait.

[@Persolaise]

Oh wow - this is comment I’d like to have framed. Thank you 🙏

[@4minartschool]

So many reviews (of perfume, of movies, art, books) can be quite dismissive and cranky. I love the real joy you're sharing as you talk about this fragrance and how much you're "rooting for" Frederic Malle as a longtime fan of the house. And laughed when you said that this one is for perfume geeks! Yayyyyyy! Thank you for the lovely video 👃 💕 keep sniffing!

[@Persolaise]

Thank you. And yes, this one is definitely geek-friendly.

[@Tarek0189]

I guess it was Frederic Malle who said and I paraphrasing that it does take a lot of complex knowledge to create something that is so obvious some may mistake as simple. So after hunting too many powerful perfumes particularly from FM and other houses. II discovered that it is really a masterpiece to create something quiet that stay. It’s all about creating a headspace. As much I enjoy the first 2-3 hours of portrait of a lady, I adore much more after 4 hours on my skin or next day on my shirt. So Heaven Can Wait is perhaps Malle’s interpretation of the most recently sought after concept of Quiet Luxury. Great review !!

[@Persolaise]

You may well be right. Thanks for watching.

[@pattieschulte700]

Great review. Have not had the pleasure yet...

[@Zappbrannigan83]

I haven’t felt this out of my depth upon my seeing a new topic gifted from the algorithm,, but it sounded pretty cool. Very engaging content.

[@Persolaise]

Ah, interesting to know that the algorithm sent you my way. Thanks for taking the time to write.

[@Zappbrannigan83]

@@PersolaiseQuestion though. I’ve always loved Jasmine flowers, they grew outside my room as a child. Are there any scents you would suggest? I’m fine with traditionally femme scents.

[@LiaAndrews]

I love 31 Rue Cambon so need to try this one. I have made peace with the fact that I am a maximalist and this quiet luxury, quiet perfume business isn't me. Parfum de Therese is my favorite Frederique Malle.

[@Persolaise]

Oooh, Therese is just gorgeous.

[@majdoulineelaasemi1559]

Parfum de Thérèse is also my favourite one. I even have a backup as I have been told last year that it will be discontinued ..but luckily is still there. My second favourite is Synthetic Jungle

[@jcgillies]

Watched this with a huge smile! Cannot wait to try this, thank you for sharing and welcome back 🎉

[@Persolaise]

Thanks very much for watching.

[@williambichara8364]

I missed the live but I am watching now. I loved Heaven Can Wait. To me it feels inspired by 31 Rue Cambon but different. Loved it.

[@Persolaise]

Yes, I'm very, very taken with it too. Thanks for watching.

[@sisterparfums]

Earlier review than excepted yesssss welcome back !!!

[@Persolaise]

Thank you!

[@CaroCoffee123]

So good to have you back, Mr P! I’m going to try this one, it sounds like it’s right up my alley.

[@Persolaise]

Please let me know what you think of it.

[@aliciafoster9588]

Love your review. First time I’ve come across you. Have subscribed.

[@Persolaise]

That's very kind, thank you. I hope you enjoy my other videos.

[@LesBergamotes]

Love at First sniff, indeed. I can't wait to try it again, though Malle is creeping up near the top of my budget these days. I love the spice. I've never tried Poivre sadly, but Bellogia has a beautiful carnation clove note too. Speaking of classic movies and perfumes, I watched Black Narcissus the other day. Dabbed on my 30's Narcisse Noire of course.

[@Persolaise]

Yes, FM prices are getting higher and higher. But then, whose prices aren't?? I love that movie. Are you by any chance aware of this: persolaise.com/2018/01/cinema-scent-on-bbc-radio-4-film-2.html

[@K-Flea_Jax]

How did I miss live? Welcome back - hope your holiday was relaxing and wonderful.

[@Persolaise]

Thanks very much indeed.

[@lisaesposito7317]

Thanks For the review. Many of us have been curious. 31 Rue is a favorite of mine so will try this.

[@Persolaise]

Thanks for watching. Please let me know what you think of it.

[@angelajuneholmes4933]

Love the sound of this one , being a Malle and clove fan . Will definitely try to smell it soon .

[@Persolaise]

I think you might like this one.

[@pattieschulte700]

Vintage Samsara is one of my very favorites You smell divine!

[@Persolaise]

Samsara is very special.

[@jackburton4484]

Welcome back!! Heaven can wait was also a song on meatloaf “bat out of hell”.

[@Persolaise]

Ah, I didn't know that. Thanks.

[@Mariam_2909]

Hi, just listend to a podcast with Frederic Malle and the perfumes he referenced for Heaven Can Wait are Coty‘s L‘Origan, L‘Heure Bleue and an unnamed one from Oscar De als Renta. Thanks for your videos here kn KZbin!! :)

[@Mariam_2909]

PS: Just finished the podcast and when asked what’s next for him he said a whole new life, asked if that means more work or less he said more - so we can probably assume that he won’t retire after leaving the brand! :D

[@Persolaise]

This is wonderful, thank you. Do you have a link to the podcast?

[@Mariam_2909]

@@Persolaise Sure! The podcast is called The Grand Tourist with Dan Rubinstein from the 13th of March :)

[@Persolaise]

@@Mariam_2909 Thank you!

[@LilacsAdore]

I tried this on a trip to Europe and it was my favorite frag in the whole store. So specia!

[@Persolaise]

I really love it too.

[@jaypirate31]

Picking up my bottle of this finally tomorrow after nearly exhausting my patience. Fortunately my patience paid off and it’s coming home for 42 dollars out of pocket thanks to a confluence of good luck and a gift card. Probably my favorite Ellena Malle release since Cologne Bigarade.

[@Persolaise]

I’m so pleased you like it too.

[@yoyoioana16]

This one reminded me of Mitsouko somehow, but without all the powderiness and a little bit spicier. At least in the forst hour

[@Persolaise]

Interesting. It definitely has a vintage feel to it.

[@nathanthomas5133]

Definitely better than Uncut Gem, but given the price I expected better longevity & sillage - though given that it’s Ellena i guess low-powered performance is a given.

[@Persolaise]

I would imagine it's designed to be on the quiet side. Thanks for watching.

[@ipurvi]

My first thought was - eyes closed by Byredo- at least for the opening notes. Later this one gets more interesting while Eyes closed stays sweet and warm. I didn’t like the dry down after 5-6 hours to be honest. Got bit too sour on me. On the other hand, I don’t get the projection complain. I could smell it till next day without bringing my arm to nose. Not a beast but still prominent enough to get noticed.

[@Persolaise]

Yes, I agree with you about its sillage: it's not 'nuclear' but it's certainly present.

[@cynthiaf.9250]

I love clove in perfumery, especially in Coco (my first ever perfume purchase.) JCE is working with Laboratorio Olfattivo on their citrus line and has made two new fragrances for Lucien Fererro's Anthologie. I hope you can review them!

[@Persolaise]

Thanks for the tip.

[@emercycrite]

That is a great shirt.

[@Persolaise]

Thanks very much 😊

[@majavuckovich]

Loved it as well, a retro vibe to it, ambrette and iris very strong on my skin. It is very "private" though. :)

[@Persolaise]

It seems to be getting quite a bit of love from many people.

[@suleikahorz8651]

I also had high expectations on this release though the last two perfumes- Synthetic Jungle and Uncut Gem- did not impress me. But the fact that JCE did the scent made me eager to smell it...and it did not disappoint though surprised me. It was love at first sniff. And immediately made me think of other perfumes. Guerlain Après L'ondée (but less melancholic), FM's L'eau d'hiver., L'Artisan Parfumeur's Piment Brûlant..even Lutens' Iris Silver Mist in some regards, though not that cold. Heaven Can Wait feels very velvety to me. Very sensual and dense, yet not JCE usual style indeed. To my nose, it's a comfort scent in the best way possible. I felt a soft embrace while wearing it. Yet it smells of elegance and sophistication as well. The iris, carnation and clove combination is perfect.

[@Persolaise]

Thanks for writing, and I’m so pleased you like it too. I think it’s one of the best Malles we’ve had for a while.

[@suleikahorz8651]

@@Persolaise I agree!

[@L-Ondee]

Ellena doing Bellucci? 31 Rue Cambon? Old French classic? I don't need to know more. I will try this asap.

[@Persolaise]

Please let me know what you think of it.

[@LB-ce5tk]

Just discovered you, love your reviews!

[@Persolaise]

That’s very kind, thank you.

[@ausland76]

I don't know why, but my first reaction on this scent was - Mitsouko)

[@Persolaise]

I can understand that - it definitely has a retro feel.

[@ausland76]

​@@Persolaise btw do you have the experience of wearing Noir Epices? How it's behave with time?

[@gsk621]

Hi, I have it (about two months) and I still don't know if it is a like or not. There is a part of it that reminds me of "Eyes Closed" from Byredo and I think it is the spiciness.

[@Persolaise]

Ah, so not an instant love for you.

[@gsk621]

@@Persolaise No but, I'm learning to appreciate it. I think maybe it has to do with my expectations when I first heard of the name "Heaven Can Wait"

[@thehonestperfumereviewer6336]

Yes! Exactly. I just mentioned this in my review of this. And I have only tried Eyes Closed a time or two in store. I think Eyes Closed is more creamy, though. And it doesn’t have that metallic vibe.

[@lubig518]

Welcome back Monsieur P, great to have you back! Hope you enjoyed the break. I did enjoy a LOT of pistachio ice cream in Nice in your honour as promised 😂 including an iced pistachio macaron which was heavenly. Speaking of heaven.. I'm enjoying my sample of Heaven Can Wait but it's not a love for me. I pick the clove the most, it reminded me of Quando rapita in estasi by Filippo Sorcinelli and Lui by Guerlain because of it. It's a like from me, but I didn't fall in love... Yet?

[@Persolaise]

Ah... I can almost taste the ice cream from your description.

[@EvWuzhere]

Got a sample of this today and its the first malle i have truly and wholeheartedly loved. I think it is beyond beautiful. But its nowhere near worth the price for the staying power. Not only does it fade quickly on skin, but the magic of it is really that skin dry down- the initial clove is overly dominating, and then it takes a backseat to the ambrette and peach i think? And it is at that point, while there is still a subdued clove note atop that beautifully simple light peach scent that this is ecstasy. But its so fleeting bc quickly after the clove is gone and morphs into variations of a woody floral scent with that peachy base- still very beautiful and enigmatic, but not quute as good, and then everything just disappears.... this might sound blasphemous but i hope someone just makes a better dupe of this that actually has staying power...

[@Persolaise]

Thanks very much for this. I have to say, I personally don't find a problem with its longevity, although I do agree that it's quiet. Have you tried spraying on a combination of skin and fabric?

[@EvWuzhere]

I usually do but for this i have not, i because as i said i really think my love for this is in the skin dry down, i suspect it stays decently on clothes, but doesnt quite unfold in the way that i would want it to- though i will try it and see

[@StelmaDesigns]

This sounds like a perfume I would love. I'm curious why you don't spray on skin? I find paper blotters only get you so far. I do understand if you're doing a large group of perfumes you couldn't test on skin obviously, but when it's just one? I hope I can find a sample of this! Thank you as always Mr Persolaise :o) oxJulia

[@Persolaise]

A good question, thank you. This was the second of three videos I broadcast back-to-back on the same day, so in effect, I was testing more than one perfume, which is why I tried to keep my skin as clear as possible.

[@StelmaDesigns]

@@Persolaise Oh, yes, I understand! Content creators sure do work hard. Thank you!

[@Persolaise]

Well… ‘hard work’ is relative, but I usually have to broadcast more than one video during a single session, because otherwise it would be too difficult to juggle other commitments.

[@StelmaDesigns]

@@Persolaise Well, even if you love it, I know there is a lot that goes into each video and the time and effort if must take. We all appreciate you :o) oxJulia

[@shopqueen]

As a woman Noir Epices is one of my FAVORITE (if not favorite) FM fragrances. It reminds me of an orange spice tea and there is definitely as nostalgia I get from it. I definitely don’t get hairy chest/masculine but I do see how more men might like it although ai do feel it runs unisex/center.

[@Persolaise]

Thanks for counter-balancing my statement. It is, of course, a beautiful scent on women as well. And you do well to mention the orange facet.

[@majavuckovich]

for me too, there is such a warm glow coming from the spices in Noir Epices, it's nostalgic and although all spices are individually perceptible it's still a very abstract perfume

[@pradeep_sekar]

Your KZbin banner Image is how it smells to me 😂

[@Persolaise]

Oh dear, that reminds me that I really should come up with a better banner.

[@thaoht96]

Compare to L'eau D'hiver which one do you prefer and why?

[@Persolaise]

I’d say Hiver, as it’s more unusual and emotional.

[@EvWuzhere]

I am very curious is he thinks this bears any resemblance to Guerlain L’Heure Bleue, as many have compared the two… now hearing that ellena was inspired by a french perfume from their youth i wonder if that was the one…

[@EvWuzhere]

People also have compared it to LUI and Oeillet Pourpre- all guerlain fragrances, which i thought was interesting… i havent smelled any of those bc i dont tend to like guerlain so im curious if any of those are actually similar and could change my mind on guerlain

[@Persolaise]

Honestly, it didn't make me think of L'Heure Bleue -- that one is so much more about the vanilla. It seems the inspiration may have been L'Origan. Thanks for watching.

[@EvWuzhere]

So i had to take matters into my own hands and investigate, bc the notes to LUI/oeillet pourpe were so close to heaven can wait, that i got my hands on a vintage bottle of both L'origan and LUI to see how close each were. And you were definitely right in that L'origan has strikingly similar DNA- although feels much more muddled and has very little to offer in the dry down experience in terms of morphing at all, also the clove note is an odd mix of things whereas heaven can wait feels like an ultraHD version of this- everything super clear and distinctly layered, less vintage smelling and with the added sweet pear at the core. The sweet pear at the heart of it all is really what all these other scents were missing. LUI is also strikingly similar, id say much more than L'origan was, and it has that hdfactor as well-except the spices linger longer and again no sweet pear in the base. An unexpected contender that i think might smell even closer than these 2 upon first spray/but then totally missed in the dry down was fleur de peau by diptyque. Alas i still have yet to find a good dupe *sigh*

[@Persolaise]

@@EvWuzhere Thanks very much for taking the time to write this.

[@Wtoreklolek]

Amouage turning volume down? Did you smell Guidance? :)

[@Persolaise]

Good point. But I think there’s generally a move away from super-loudness.

[@suleikahorz8651]

I just listened to the short presentation by JCE and FM and it resonates well with what I felt when testing the perfume. The sensuality and soft embrace, the protection it provides, its delicate presence...boheminan chic...for once these are not just words used by the marketing/PR people. The scent embodies the story told. It's a perfume of hope for me...the hope that perfumery can be great again. :)

[@Persolaise]

I must try to find the video you’re talking about. It certainly sounds as though the concept for this release has been followed through properly.

[@suleikahorz8651]

@@Persolaise here it is: kzbin.info/www/bejne/h3zZpmtvar-Lha8

[@emmagutierrez1408]

I wonder if Heaven Can Wait could compare with Poivre Sacré by Caron. That was a love at first scent for me but I only smelt it once. I'll have to try the new Malle tomorrow!

[@Persolaise]

Good question. I'd have to refamiliarise myself with PS.

[@900miniatureponies]

Quiet luxury finds perfume. Lovely. Subtle and elegant sillage. A nice change from the waves of BR540, nothing against this now iconic and perfectly wonderful perfume, but tides are changing!

[@Persolaise]

Yes, tides certainly do seem to be changing. Thanks for watching.

[@thehonestperfumereviewer6336]

Tried it today! Way too much clove for the first hour or so. I liked the drydown, though. Enjoyed the vetiver and natural sweetness toward the end. It started to really fade after three hours. Would never buy this! Interesting to hear that it was inspired by an old fragrance, didn’t know this!

[@Persolaise]

Thanks very much for taking the time to write.

[@Once_WuZi]

I think if this were louder than the spices would verge on vintage Musc Ravageur territory in which case Malle may have seen it as redundant. Less carnal and it would have been too conceptually similar to Noir Epices. In a way it actually makes sense conceptually and from a brand variety point of view to offer a quieter spice/amber scent, it fills a gap in the library. Whether people appreciate that will remain to be seen.

[@Persolaise]

A very good point, well made. Thank you.

[@L-Ondee]

I have worn this on skin twice. I understand how this is being compared to, and is inspired by an old French classic. However it is not a success in my opinion. First of all it is very weak. Has got hardly any longevity and practically no sillage. I have to search for it on myself. French classic perfumes are not like that. It does develop nicely from a first rather spicey clove heavy impression into a smoother just faintly floral, spicy and creamy scent. There are hints of tones that remind of natural skin, which gives it a certain intimacy, which I like and which is an effect found in many classic perfumes. I wish it were more complex though, more faceted. I find it a bit boring and flat. And too clove heavy overall. It is also trying too hard to be a unisex scent. I know people will get upset about this idea. My problem, not yours! I am not a fan of steering things with force into mid realm. No matter if it goes with the whole of the composition or not. I would search among the Lanvins, maybe the Schiaparellis for the inspiration for this perfume btw.

[@Persolaise]

Thanks for taking the time to write. I can’t say I’ve had the same experience with the scent’s longevity, but it’s helpful to read about how the scent ‘works’ on other people.