Free-Flight Basics #6 - Covering An Oval Fuselage With Tissue & Color Trim

[@thomasarnold9747]

I cannot believe how much I either learn or get validated by these great flicks, Tom. This is the best dry covering instruction I have seen and, again, I realize how much more a person needs to cut the slits in tissue and to be generous with the glue stick. The taped blade and use of a sealing iron was also new. A future video on the fabrication of the insignia and lettering would be eagerly received too. Great video----don't stop!

[@Eugensdiet]

This was not only a great how to cover video but people who plan to do tutorial videos should watch this. Best how to video I've ever seen.

[@robertrussellmd]

I have had an Earl Stahl TG2 fuselage framed up for several years. This master class video will replace headaches with joy.Thank you Tom. I could also imagine a no cal version with a clear plastic prop for indoor rubber flight.

[@sanpol4399]

This series of how to do, is F A N T A S T I C. Thank you so much for teaching the steps to master this amazing hobby. 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻

[@CafeenMan]

I'm a life-long model builder. I can not begin to tell you how much I love your work and how inspiring it is.

[@maxfliart]

Thx so much. Cheers.

[@mikeo7604]

Fantastic Tom! Good to see you back after the holidays!

[@me262a1]

I wish I had one ready to cover. I better get to building!!!

[@charlescarter6146]

Biggest trick I've been missing all these years is the alcohol bit. Thanks .

[@haroldneely9253]

The channel I’ve been searching for. I lost my original collection in the bastrop complex fire. I’ve always had an interest in silk and tissue and now I’ve turned my attention to smaller lighter planes and it seems everyone covers in white or one solid color. This is great.

[@donlawrence1428]

that is really something. i remember making scale rubber models as a kid with dope. the smell really bothered my dad, even though he was enthused with my hobby. glue stick and tissue is a game changer!

[@maxfliart]

Thx, Don. Yes, today it's user & house friendly.

[@Tadrjbs]

A joy to watch the master at work.

[@Helliconia54]

loving your "free-flight basics" series.

[@willgraves5288]

Another great one, Tom. Sometimes it's hard to believe that, after all the work, you then take these creations outside and throw them into the air!

[@davidodonoghue7684]

Wonderful! Your last shot of the TG-2 floating away is simply transcendental. Thank you so much - David OD Laguna Woods CA

[@adamlinson6038]

Tom, thanks so much for these tutorials! I finished covering my first ever free flight plane this week. Your techniques you shared were so valuable, and made my first attempt, rather enjoyable. Thanks!

[@maxfliart]

Good to hear Adam. Glad you've taken a chance on F/F.

[@chrissorlie5291]

Thank you so much for your videos. Your subtle audio editing needs a shout out as does your remarkable building / covering skills. I've just discovered your site. This is the second video I've viewed. I'm 72. I was a very high time R/c sailplane pilot. Left the hobby in 1980. Now I'm back and i'd like to fly an R/c free flight model. Was thinking small electric but I can see I have a lot to learn about using tissue. I find a quiet rubber motor very appealing..... again, a lot to learn. Just want to thank you again for teaching me so much about how it's done. In the old days I built my sailplanes out of balsa. I was careful building and my aircraft flew ok but we had a couple of guys who built beautiful sailplanes. I could never build like they they could. THEY WERE EX FREE FLIGHT GUYS! And now I know where they learned to build. I thought I knew a fair amount about working with balsa. You've shown me things I've never seen before!!!! I'm looking forward to viewing the rest of your videos. Thank you again Tom !!!

[@maxfliart]

Thx, Chris. Appreciated. Welcome to free-flight!

[@carlossantamaria4378]

Thank you for sharing. I used to fly radio control but I have always been fascinated with free flight all my life but the sources from where I can learned are so limited that became more frustrating that rewarding. I think now I'm ready to try this amazing hobby, Thanks again for the inspiration!

[@timpurcell6931]

Fantastic tutorial and incredible workmanship. Thanks! Also, I think you have the oldest monokote iron in existence!! I had the same one back in the 70s. 😃

[@maxfliart]

Thx, Tim, and u may be right...I've used it perhaps twice since I bought it in the early 70s, on a Midwest Lil' T and a Top Flite Headmaster. Life got in the way after that until I rediscovered FF rubber in the late 80s...and no turning back...

[@kevincaulkett9358]

Thanks Tom. I recently retired so am reverting back to my childhood days of Aeromodelling which was my hoppy in the UK, trying to remember what my Dad taught me. He alwasy used celluose Dope to taughten the tissue (but I think he was happier inhaling it than applying it :) my first attempt was an old keilkraft Achilles, which i put together well but warped the polyhedral wing to hell with dope :} 55 years later living in Japan, I find that an alcohol/water mix works just a fine, with a very light spray of silicone to finally waterproof it. Complex geometries and shapes have been my downfall but this video really helped me out. Thank you so much!

[@maxfliart]

Thx for sharing ur story, Kevin. It's good to hear our collective histories.

[@micregil]

It's great the way you're presenting these lessons, the part where you added the second color is especially valuable.

[@randall4411]

Sooo beautiful . Man that looks great .

[@paulvanniekerk1027]

Sir you are good !!! in every aspect every little nook and cranny concerning your craft , from the plans to the trimming and flying of the wonderful beautiful( I call them master pieces ) models you so kindly share the secrets of the hobby with us. Sir thank you for sharing , I have built about 4 balsa kits 8 wish I had met you along time ago . I am 70 years old bedridden but still can build you give me hope sir .I have just finished a small Tiger Moth

[@paulvanniekerk1027]

I wish not 8 wish correction

[@daveb7811]

Thanks for your videos. I used this technique on my recently completed Scotch Monoped.

[@maxfliart]

Cool! I hope she flies well for you.

[@fabiohaddad2531]

Thank you very much for the video. Clever idea in the blue trim cutting method, I have learned quite a lot, The model's fuselage end up beautiful.

[@robertploth6400]

Great stuff, always skillful and instructive love the pulling techniques with the emery board

[@adcengineer3090]

Not only very informative but very therapeutic 😊

[@StrangerInAStrange]

I haven't worked with tissue since the late sixties and I think that was with Dope. Never anything like your finish. Beautiful work. I enjoyed watching this. I'm thinking about building one of these and dropping a Micro/UMX brick Rx/Servos in to make it RC. Had thought about using laminating film for finish . . . you may make me take a 'tissue' direction for my covering.

[@TheMendipman]

Thank you Tom. Without doubt the best technique I've ever seen and a great learning experience. Noel

[@maxfliart]

Thx, Noel. It's a slow and methodical process of course, but hopefully the film gives the young or new modelers a general sense of how one could approach this challenge.

[@TheMendipman]

@@maxfliart Well, I'm not new and definitely not young, but I learned a great deal in that half hour.

[@maxfliart]

@@TheMendipman Thx, Noel...that's good to hear. I'm merely relating everything that I came to accept as routine, but I fully understand that there are many way to reach a similar goal. Hopefully the films will motivate newbies and others to pick up some balsa and tissue and start building & flying. We could all probably use a bit of calm distraction these days.

[@bigsid3011]

Just magic!

[@Togidubnus]

I've covered several dozen compound-curved models and I've never cut slits in the tissue, perpendicular to the longest axis, as you do here. And I'm not going to start now. Here's a handy hint for cutting out colour flashing: draw the shape onto paper, place over the tissue (two sheets thick, if two identical shapes is what you require) then cut out the shape with a knife, through the paper and both sheets of tissue.

[@peterbrown7130]

Another masterclass Tom, thanks so much for sharing your knowledge with us 👍

[@marzman9822]

Tom Hallman, the master.

[@MRPCB-qb2ge]

Tom, I am so inspired by your videos. I was hoping you would do a full build series and now you have so thanks. JK Millennium RC,

[@karlepps8793]

Fantastic series. If only I had seen this before I started my first model then I could have saved a lot of headaches! There's just so much knowledge and experience being shown here that I haven't seen elsewhere. Thank you :-)

[@maxfliart]

Thx Karl. I'm glad it helps and that u find the series useful. Have fun!

[@terryblackman6217]

That was so relaxing to watch. Thank you for sharing your knowledge with us.

[@richardwilliams7768]

What great demonstration, I really enjoyed watching your masterly technique.

[@nhschreiner]

Thank you for sharing your knowledge

[@williamloughlin6869]

I find your videos to be a gift. I was wondering if you could do a video on damage repair - I know your planes never crash ( :-) ) but as a rank beginner a video like that would be very helpful.

[@maxfliart]

Thx, William. Your suggestion is a good one. But yes, everyone has do deal with damage control...I've been there many times. I just haven't shown the nitty gritty....though I believe I have posted a few photos thru the process. The Caudron C-714 for one, stalled and dove in, breaking the fuselage in half above the wing. I had her back on the field within a week, having not only repaired her, but also realizing the issues she had from the stall. Now she's rock solid, so the crash was a good thing. Here's that film of the crash and damage. At the 6:30 mark. kzbin.info/www/bejne/Y365dK1ri7Z0oJI

[@georgemarinescu969]

Thanks for sharing your experience! Great tutorial video!

[@p51amustang]

These vids are great. Fun to watch easy to understand. Also, the alcohol has a little water in it. So it's not totally dry.

[@ianhirons7762]

Thank you Tom,another great video with a lot of great tips .And another outstanding model built.The test glide looked good ,cant wait for the maiden thank you again for your time and effort.

[@jetflyer102]

Great video. My son and I just completed our first balsa tissue gliders and they turned out great. Thank you for the amazing video and inspiration.

[@maxfliart]

Good to hear, congrats & enjoy.

[@bryanwilhelm8341]

I am just gearing up for printing on tissue. Have help from Dave Mitchell. A video of all the gear and process steps would be great

[@carlb5451]

Great information...thanks for sharing...keep them coming.

[@kenkingsflyingmachines2382]

I used to be pretty good at this using nitrate dope and lacquer thinner. In fact, I found thin nitrate dope the "secret" to good tissue work. I have not had great results with a glue stick. I must be missing something? I can't seem to get an even coating of glue when I smear the stick around. It seems like when you get enough glue on there to stick the tissue, it takes FOREVER for the tissue to dry out (harden) enough to even think about trimming, usually letting each piece dry over night. And the Krylon...man that stuff gets heavy fast. The glorious smell of nitrate dope is no longer allowed in the domicile, however, so new techniques must be used! I'm enjoying this series immensely! Thanks for posting.

[@maxfliart]

Hi Ken, thx for sharing your experiences. I use the glue stick with 70% alcohol for attaching, which dries rather quickly, usually within minutes. It's then ready to trim with the X-acto or razor. The Krylon finish is only dusted on on, a few quick passes is plenty to do the job. It's very light in weight. But it's totally different from a dope finish, which can withstand all sorts of moisture. A Krylon finish will prevent the tissue from shrinking the frame into a pretzel over time, but the tissue will surely sag in the damp mornings or evenings. During the day or in the heat, the tissue is drum tight. It's not for everyone, especially if you have a history with the dope finishes, but it's a good way to have a model that is lighter in weight and resistant to warps.

[@kenkingsflyingmachines2382]

@@maxfliart It's the "few quick passes" I think I have trouble with. I'm too used to "an even coat" which invariably leads to over-application. I have 2 new airframes and 2 re-covers that I've been putting off for at least 3 years now because of pussy-footing around. You give me courage!

[@jeffhayes1855]

I was concerned for a moment about a path for the motor. 😂 Thanks for sharing your experience.

[@maxfliart]

Haha...I know. Hit me the same way. Strange building something w/o a rear motor peg! Cheers.

[@tommasofiorilli]

Thanks, I was really struggling with this and it really helped me out.

[@chrismadge7292]

Super skills, and a great tutorial 😊

[@e-rj8984]

State of Art🌷! Thanks so much for Your fantastic instructions 👍

[@deanhoman1958]

Very, very nice work.

[@hxl6162]

This is pure art

[@jardaschannel]

You are simply the master of airplane models! Such a great inspiration for my new airplanes, but I have an idea, what about to insert to your models Micro Camera? It is light, and some micro (sd) cameras are cheap... Ps: it would be nice to do L200 Morava, this aircraft has a nice shape. Thumbs up for your video!!👍👍

[@maxfliart]

Thx. I've posted quite a few films with the micro cams onboard. A lot of fun!

[@kentalbot4923]

love these videos Tom! thanks as always for sharing your skills. Doesnt the alcohol lift up the tissue from the previous stringer 'row'? Your pulling the new row but isnt it also 'pushing' the previous row? I need to master this technique for a soon to be built Morane Saulnier. Not sure how I'll handle the camo too - probably much the same as your blue trim. funtime matching seems!

[@maxfliart]

Thx, Ken. Regarding the tissue lifting, in my experience, surprisingly no. The previously covered areas have always remained so. Maybe because I don't coat the balsa with anything other than the glue stick? Or because I always float a bit more alcohol on the previous stringers before attaching the new tissue and glue stick. There's not any science to it, but that's what I've found. Still, I'm a bit cautious when pulling it tight over those seams.

[@mariodonkartworks]

Thats beautiful work

[@hangflyer907]

Great series! I can't wait for the next lesson.

[@rc166honda]

Exquisite work, thank you for posting.

[@raymondo162]

#6 and i am learning so much............... thx

[@SteveNeill]

Wonderful.

[@haroldbrown1998]

#1 weight and Balance.

[@presentdayjeff5790]

You’re doing such a great service for the future of this [nowadays] relatively obscure hobby. If you ever compiled your techniques and experience into a book I’d be the first buyer. Questions: how long have you been using the glue stick/alcohol/krylon technique? Did you start originally with the traditional dope method and switch, or always this method? As to your fresh xacto blades, do you ever do anything to hone or strop them during use to maintain their pristine edge before having to switch to a new one? Thanks, I love your methods!

[@RichardGee9]

Beautiful!

[@Clouddddxjzjs552]

beautiful!

[@janogomo9899]

Un gran trabajo!!! Felicitaciones!!! Gracias por compartir, es de gran ayuda para aquellos que estamos comenzando... Saludos

[@maxfliart]

muchas gracias. Me alegro de que los estés disfrutando.

[@yassermasood3423]

Tom you are Legend.

[@mattluszczak8095]

Hey bud what glue stick did you use? I have found marbig which has alcohol in it. Im guessing that would be suitable for your method as all other glue sticks i have seen are water based

[@georgekandylakis614]

another great video in a great series of how-to videos...Certainly a great addition for learning. You might consider changing the title though... Basics? And what would "Masters" be?... As Tom wrote below, great to see one is already doing 90% but the extra 10% one can learn comes as a bonus... There still is one minor thing I prefer differently though, thought I d' mention it: I prefer to use SHARP edged razor blades removed from disposable razors for trimming the tissue, thinner and sharper than an X-Acto blade. Also, I am still a fan of the less healthy dope and thinner way, but you tempt me to try the gluestick method for a next model...Thanks...

[@maxfliart]

Thx for sharing your experience. Always good to hear what works best for each of us.

[@ktsaicheung4059]

Dear Tom, Thank you so much for sharing such valuable experience with us, it is awesome. May I ask what kind of Krylon spray paint that you use for tissue covering?

[@maxfliart]

Thx. I use either Krylon Matte (#1311) or Clear (#1301).

[@ktsaicheung4059]

Thanks for the advice Tom

[@jonquinones964]

How sweet

[@Vladancz]

Bravo Tom and thank you! Tom, what's the glue in that cup, please?

[@maxfliart]

Thx. That's the alcohol, which melts or reactivates the glue stick through the tissue.

[@Vladancz]

@@maxfliart That is a good idea. Thank you.....

[@johnmajane3731]

The thing I have the hardest time with is trimming the tissue when overlapping with other tissue. I used to do the dope to adhere it and then switch to watered down glue.

[@maxfliart]

Most important here is that the seam overlap is fully dry before trimming the excess tissue.

[@johnmajane3731]

@@maxfliart thanks

[@andykovacs4595]

Hi Tom, Great video and very informative. Love the idea of the taped blade. Where do you get Micro-X tissue? What's available today, from what I see, is very poor compared to Esaki. Can you help??

[@maxfliart]

Micro-X is no longer available, but shows up on ebay sometimes. Both Volare and Easy Built has some good tissue. I stumbled onto an unexpected source via Hallmark. This specific 35 sheet white pack is surprisingly close to esaki in quality and weight. Inexpensive too, so it's at least worth a look. Their other tissue is meh. Product # 399TIS1016. www.hallmark.com/gift-wrap/tissue/white-tissue-paper-35-sheets-399TIS1016.html?searchterm=399TIS1016&searchkey=399TIS1016&oq=399TIS1016

[@robinboucherwonderfulflight]

Wow, so much amazing practical information, thank you very much Tom. What temperature in the covering iron set at? Did you sand the bottom of the iron smoother? Thanks again

[@maxfliart]

Thx. I used the lowest setting. It doesn't take much heat to affect tissue.

[@carlpayne6024]

Thanks!

[@lrg3834]

Exquisite.

[@RammYou2]

the cuts around the excess trim to fit a panel on a contour; 'davit' in the carbon fiber world. I get zen when i watch you do this. do you write the score as well?

[@maxfliart]

Haha. Thx. No, but my oldest son could... :-D And he would if I asked.

[@johnmajane3731]

Do the glue sticks go bad? I tried to cover a one night 16 with this method. The glue sticks are old and it doesn't leave that nice purple on.

[@maxfliart]

Yes, if the caps aren't on tight, in time they'll dry up. I always start with a fresh one. If it's been opened, but ur not going to use it again for awhile, adding a few drops of alcohol inside the cap will help keep them moist.

[@johnmajane3731]

@@maxfliart thanks I think that is where I went wrong

[@vancegilbert1958]

It has you hand so *quick*!! Ohhhh My - I want to make cover EVRERYTHING NOW!! Question.... can you still make cover without pretty music? Or it must play whenever you make plane?I have LOVE IT!!

[@pdbrown170b]

After you have covered the fuselage, what do you use to shrink and finish the tissue?

[@maxfliart]

I spray lightly with water, and after it's dry & tight, I dust with matte Krylon spray.

[@pdbrown170b]

Perfect. Thank you.

[@smusiness165]

2:21 yes, i think it can hurt, anyway can vinavil mixed with water do the same work as the isopropyl alcohol?

[@maxfliart]

Thx for the feedback. I've never used Vinavil, but test it out and see what happens. Let us know the results.

[@stephengould9385]

what are you using to seal the tissue? -- Thanks

[@maxfliart]

Krylon clear or matte. Just a dusting. It doesn't seal or waterproof the tissue like dope, but the bonus is that it's very light, and contains a plasticizer that prevents further shrinking of the tissue....which of course limits any warping.

[@thebalsaboy]

Question: I have been working on a tbf avenger while following your instructions. Works great, but; after about five minutes after drying or getting dried, the tissue crinkles back up again just a small enough amount to be noticeable. Got any answers? I think it may be because I live in the northwest (usa) and it might be the climate. Great video too!

[@maxfliart]

Yes, a couple of factors could be at play. Humidity can cause a less than tight tissue, or even the type of tissue itself. When I have the model out in the sun, it's always drum tight, so I just accept it as the constantly evolving nature of tissue. You could try hitting it with the heat from a hair dryer (not too close) and see if it tightens up. That will at least show u the tissue at its tightest....although it may relax again once it becomes settled with the normal air in ur area.

[@thebalsaboy]

@@maxfliart ok, that’s what I suspected. The tissue I’m using is casual peck polymers silver tissue, thx.

[@maxfliart]

@@thebalsaboy Yeah, silver can be a bear. And if it's domestic tissue (no grain direction) vs Japanese tissue, that could also be a reason for the looseness.

[@thebalsaboy]

@@maxfliart my silver tissue is my only tissue that does not have grain, so that is probably why too. I haven’t gotten much done (only on the front two formers) so I might just redo and see how that goes. Is going in between the formers vertically or doing horizontal strips down on the stringers better?

[@maxfliart]

@@thebalsaboy It's always best to have the grain running lengthwise on the fuselage, then attaching the tissue lengthwise between the stringers. It's a bit of work, but many times it's best to just cover between two stringers at a time, rather than trying to wrap a few stringers with one piece of tissue. Compound curves make that less than ideal...and can lead to many wrinkles.

[@scottkc2cad733]

is "glue stick " all you use to adhere the tissue ?

[@maxfliart]

yes.

[@mikelowe9906]

Thanks for this great tutorial series! Has helped me a ton as I rediscover balsa after a 35+ year break! How did you do the elaborate color details on the top wing? Did you print the tissue, or did you apply the silver, etc on the leading edge with silver tissue like you did the blue on the fuselage? Thanks!

[@maxfliart]

Hi Mike. For the wing, I sprayed the silver directly onto the yellow tissue (while flat) before covering. For silver finishes, I always spray a medium gray first for opacity, then dust it with the silver until it reaches the level of shine I'm after. The lettering and panels lines were printed on with inkjet, while the insignia was sprayed with airbrush on a separate piece of white tissue, then cut out and applied with a glue stick.

[@mikelowe9906]

@@maxfliart Wow! Thank you for the detailed explanation. Your tutorials are excellent and have inspired me to try things I never did as a kid building stick free flight. After 35+ years away I'm enjoying building balsa stick models again. My tissue covering is getting better with each attempt with my current model - already looking forward to my next so I can push my learning farther! Thanks again! Your models are amazing and true works of art!

[@maxfliart]

@@mikelowe9906 Thx, Mike...I'm glad ur enjoying and learning from the films. Have fun!

[@froyserrano5969]

Maxifilard me inspiras mucho

[@maxfliart]

Dankon. Tre aprezita.

[@Yosemite-George-61]

Hello, I need help with covering. I'm on my first scratch build and I already covered it 4 times... The problem is that the tissue gets tight after damping but later becomes slightly saggy... I suspect the tissue quality, is JPerking from England, colored tissue bought on line from a UK model supplier. (I'm in France) I tried a light dope coating and it turned to "onion skin" looking, almost trasparent, so I tried the varnish for artists and still sags, then I went from 50/50 white glue and water to UHU... still sags, then I pre-srunk... still sags... I tried steam, then water spray, then water applied with the wife's makeup cotton pads... still sags... Am I missing something? I want to get this airplane ready for my 60th b-day on sept 6... Thanks y'all!

[@maxfliart]

Hi Jorge. Thx for reaching out. I'm not familiar with this specific tissue, but I suspect the quality might be the issue. Do you have access to other tissue? I would try this test. Simply make a 3"- 4" square frame with 1/8" sticks of balsa, then cover it on one side. I use a glue stick for attaching. Next get the tissue wet or damp with water...a cotton ball soaked with water, gently rubbed across will get it wet enough. Then allow it to dry, either naturally, or with a hair dryer. What happens? The tissue should shrink and dry drum tight....and it should stay that way. If it doesn't, then I think the tissue is not the best product for your modeling needs. Any good brand of Japanese tissue for modeling purposes should work well. All good tissue has a dull and a shiny side. It also has a grain when you tear it. If it doesn't have a grain, it's what we call domestic tissue, and is not always the best tissue for shrinking on a frame, but I have seen a few brands that still work. Even some of the tissue used for wrapping inside a gift box, as found in various greeting card stores. Hallmark sells a generic white tissue that has worked for some of my models. Bottomline, if the tissue does not dry drum tight, then adding dope or other finishes will not improve the condition. Good luck, and keep us posted.

[@Yosemite-George-61]

@@maxfliart Hi, I just did what you suggested, I have 2 frames with 2 colors of tissue drying overnight, we'll see tomorrow but I think you're right, is the bad paper. I ordered some japanese paper sold by Dumas... we don't have a lot of choices here in France... is a dying hobby but i'll keep at it. "Success consists of going from failure to failure without loss of enthusiasm." W. Churchill. Thanks a lot, I'm learning from you guys.

[@maxfliart]

@@Yosemite-George-61 Good luck with it.

[@Yosemite-George-61]

@@maxfliart Thanks!

[@bryanwilhelm8341]

Hi Tom: If you put a piece of mask tape on your round x-acto knife leaving a flag...it will not roll off the table

[@maxfliart]

Thx, Bryan. I do that, and it works well, but in the case of the xacto fiasco, I was cutting the tissue off the frame, with the model hanging over the edge of the table. I fumbled the xacto knife, it did a few flips & twists, leading to a perfectly stuck landing on the top of my foot... And so it goes.

[@52TONBI]

曲線の有る所は、紙を細かく切って貼るのか！参考に為ります。

[@maxfliart]

はい、時々私はその方法を使用します。

[@aeromodeller1]

Wunniful, wunniful. 90% isopropyl will dissolve some brands of glue stick so it can be applied with a brush, allowing more precision and uniformity, fewer excess lumps.

[@asburypiperpkgg2427]

What is everyone doing, now that you cannot buy Japanese tissue anymore?

[@maxfliart]

Have not found that to be the case. Both sources listed above have plenty. Certain Hallmark tissue is also quite good and easily available, nearing on the weight and quality of esaki.

[@asburypiperpkgg2427]

@@maxfliart Thank you but I don't see any sources listed anywhere my friend

[@maxfliart]

@@asburypiperpkgg2427 - If viewing on a computer, below the film in the description, where it says 'show more'. Click it for more info. On a cell phone, there's usually an arrow to the right of the title. Click for the additional info. Here's what I have posted for tissue: Quality Japanese tissue can be purchased through these sources: www.easybuiltmodels.com/ www.volareproducts.com/BUY/

[@Justwantahover]

🇺🇦

[@garydickens7567]

Aaaaaaand,,,,, breathe....

[@JN24185]

I love us Type A folks. Look at those perfect fingernails!