FREE Quick fix! Ac Blender door actuator Grand marquise Crown Vic Town car. 30 minutes $0

Рет қаралды 13,515

Жыл бұрын

How to quickly fix your blender door for free on a Lincoln town car, Mercury grand marquise, Ford Crown Vic. Informational video enjoy and please subscribe!!

Пікірлер: 19

@WFO. 9 ай бұрын

Mine just went out today. F-k. Car is in mint condition too. Mine is stuck in hot AF heat. Your video was excellent. Thank you brother!

@donniehopkins8439 2 ай бұрын

Just did this today. You actually don’t have to take the duct out,or the connector,which is a bi§$&. Just use a thin 5/16 ratchet wrench to take that screw out and pry the actuator off of the rod and you are good to go.Wish I had seen your video before I went in blind.

@WLFFellowship 2 ай бұрын

You helped me have AC for the summer...many thanks!

@ralphvaccaro2638 3 ай бұрын

Thanks for the video have a good day 😃

@Tru_wick 3 ай бұрын

Thanks

@saltof1 Жыл бұрын

Thank you! Just one question. Will that affect the AC? . In my car only the AC works. I haven’t bother to fix the heather issue because I am in Miami, but even here (like today) every once in a while gets cold and I like to have some warm air blowing in. An if I can fix it myself, I wouldn’t mind saving some $$$. Thank you again:)

@ptakcaraudiochannel2675 Жыл бұрын

It won’t effect your ac, all it does it flips a little door by the heater core allowing warm air to pass threw, it just opens and closes. It’s only going to give u heat tho if your heater is hooked up and gets fluid to the heater core. If your heater hoses are still hooked up then it should work

@TNT-uw5ww 10 ай бұрын

Now the door is closed or open? because i am living in Middle East and its hot there I need to make its close forever 😂

@mickeyharrington6785 4 ай бұрын

Fixed it the correct way for less than $30. You have to go into it that far just fix it right.

@donniehopkins8439 2 ай бұрын

Don’t believe that they have improved the quality of the part ,might last five years or five days.

@mickeyharrington6785 2 ай бұрын

@@donniehopkins8439 Took me about an hour and a half. Worth it to have it working (correctly). Would do it again if necessary.

@hubertcumberdale_ 22 күн бұрын

How’d you reach all the blots?

@mickeyharrington6785 22 күн бұрын

@@hubertcumberdale_ You can't reach the very back one so remove the 2 front ones(not easy, but doable), then break the back one of. Cut the end of the loop on the back one on the new part, then slide it under the screw. The front ones will hold it in place. That is how the dealership does it!

@hubertcumberdale_ 22 күн бұрын

@@mickeyharrington6785 thank you that does sound a lot easier

@cubehire3653 6 ай бұрын

For me taking out a radio of the dash is something I have done but I’m not gonna touch the airbag not me. I understand this is a survival video just to get but I think you just have to accept that if you need this repaired you’re gonna have to pony up $1000 Might not be worth it if it’s just a $500 car.

@pilgrimpassingthrough2228 4 ай бұрын

You can and should fix this the right way and don't worry about the air bag, just disconnect the negative battery terminal for 10 minutes before removing the air bag. Here is just one of many decent videos of how to fix the blend door WITHOUT REMOVING THE ENTIRE DASH! kzbin.info/www/bejne/bHybl3yvlrach7M

@user-fp7ee2mk3c Ай бұрын

First of all the S in Marquis is silent. Mar-key. Several YT videos pronounce it Mar-keys. I've done this job 3 times in 2 days. Once to figure it all out. The second time to put on the wrong part.. where the jobber said it fit all from 95 up it does not. The size is the same. The plug is the same. But it's not the same. And the third time will be simple. It's easy to disable and remove one of these Ford airbags. That's 5 minutes. It's hard to get that stupid designed hard plastic air tube off the center stack and then remove it. I found if once I removed it from the stack and pushed it down behind and twisted it one way it comes out a fuzz easier but it's still worse than an angry woman in menopause! Then you can remove the 3 upper 7mm screws from the top of the dash panel and one 10mm nut off the stud holding the dash up and then pull back on the instrument panel and wedge a 2x4 stub in between or you can actually pull the radio and get your hand in from the back to kinda help.. the first time you really need to wedge the dash out and remove the radio or if you have a good friend who works for free come help you just pull the whole instrument panel and then it will still be no fun.. whomever done this job before put on rounded off odd size screws to hold down the actuator they put on. And then tightened them tighter than the hubs of hell. Some people really shouldn't be mechanics. So I done a complete diagnostic on the eatc module and some other things and everything pointed back to the BDA. So that's when I had the genius idea to check if the eBay guy's information was right and it wasn't. So I put my dash back together without the BDA and with it in full cold position. I put a little clear silicone right beside it so it can't move out of that position until I want to mess with it again. I ordered a correct part AND A 5 INCH FLEX aluminum and PVC hose for the stupid hard plastic hose Ford used. I remember in the 80s these cars had flex hoses so I ordered one for this job. Just plain old flexible dryer hose. It will come with two clamps and I may or may not use them. Heater tape used to be a common thing. Nowadays you tell the parts counter guy "heater tape" and most of them have no idea what that is. I'm going to use duck tape because it's what I have for the time being. I looked at using a bit of cold weld to hold a throttle cable on to the blend door arm or wedging a tap on the end to keep the cable from getting free and then running the cable to an adjustment bracket that I'd keep in the glove box and then mark one side cold and one side hot and then I could figure out a suitable adjustment and leave it but I'm really tired of working on it. I can barely walk and I really need to move on to the next project. So when I get back to this in a few days it'll be easy peasy to put the BDA on and put the flex duct back, reinstall the air bag and then get on with my life. A MC YH1766 is what I should have had for automatic HVAC. I really prefer the manual HVAC but this one isn't a manual and in these years the automatic wasn't too much trouble. The manual BDA was a yh1800 I think. This yh1757 is not going to work for this one. I'm going to suggest to everyone to notch the back couple of ears and slide it under the screw and stud and don't worry about tightening them down. Then ayor and less tore up knuckles and finger tips just tighten the front easy screw and leave the other side alone it really doesn't move much once the part on the bottom engages the metal arm. The screws on the BDA should be 5/16" or 8mm. But I know every manufacturer just puts on that day in production whatever they have. So yours may be different.