Freehand Grinding - Part 3 - Drills Continued

[@williamsavory5274]

Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience. I learn alot from your videos and appreciate the time and effort you put into making them.

[@Threadexpress]

Thanks for the feedback William. Cheers Cliff

[@CNC4XR7]

Always Valuable Information you pass along Thank you for sharing your Knowledge I always enjoy these video's.

[@Threadexpress]

Cheers!

[@namenotshown9277]

excellent

[@barryboyd7973]

I wish you had more subscribers...I find your videos very valuable and I think many others would too.

[@Threadexpress]

Thanks, but don't worry about it. Better to have (viewer) quality ahead of quantity. Cheers Cliff

[@HansFormerlyTraffer]

Thanks for the very straight forward explanation of web thinning. I had been thinning the web with an undercut under the cutting edge. It works but does not allow for the resharpening like yours that is on the plane of the rake. (sorry if I use incorrect words to explain, I am just learning this stuff) P.S. I no longer use a bench grinder for sharpening tools. I use the diamond wheels on a dremel type tool. They are far more flexable in getting into angles and such. And they grind carbide like butter.

[@Threadexpress]

Hi Hans. Sorry I missed your comment. Thanks for the feedback. Cheers Cliff

[@roleic7246]

Your drill sharpening videos are very interesting not only for newbies. But you postulate that it is valuable to be able to do it freehand. That may be true for somebody like you who does that as part of making a living and many times per day or week where as for the hobby metal worker this may happen only once in a few weeks or less. Therefore it is more difficult for the hobbyist to acquire and maintain this level of freehand skill. So the hobbyist might still be faster and more precise using a mechanical help for this, like one of those drill grinding attachments to a pedestal grinder, or a tool and cutter grinder like the one you probably use for D-bits (Deckel S0 clone). However, I do not like the plastic toy called drill doctor. That is a time waster for pros and hobbyists. But your explanations of the different wanted geometries and the reasons for wanting them also help the hobbyists who do not grind freehand.

[@Threadexpress]

Good points Rol. It is difficult to do occasionally...yes I agree...But the easy road is not as challenging. Cheers Cliff

[@roleic7246]

Of course that is true as well, Cliff. Much of your content is best suited for pros and advanced metal working hobbyists. But I often have the beginner metal working hobbyist in mind. Typically his first step is to move up from a hand power drill to a drill press. When a drill is worn out he buys a new one. He uses the same drills to cut any material. So he only gets his toes wet so to speak. In my (possibly wrong) theory the step to buy a grinder and learn about simple and more advanced drill tip geometries and sharpen his drill bits by himself is often the break through into metal working. (Getting in it up to his knees). And IMHO this step should be made easier by a mechanical help like a drill sharpening attachment. The drill doctor is no good for this either because it works like a black box. The user can not see what it does and it does not work very well either. The next step is then to get a lathe. And sharpening of lathe bits does not look so intimidating any more for somebody who already sharpens his drill bits. Then he is in it up to his hips...:-) Although some also avoid sharpening lathe bits by exclusively using carbide insert holders. But most inserts are optimized for heavy cuts in series production and don't suit the needs of hobbyists very well. He has to dig in quite deep to find inserts for light finishing cuts.

[@Threadexpress]

Hi Rol - Yes it is true I am unsure who to aim the videos at - I think I am slowly realizing the larger number of beginner viewers and shifting the focus a little. Thanks Cliff