Freehand Knife Sharpening burr & wire-edge removal

To remove burr and or wire-edge, just fold & cut them off. This video shown examples of burr removal at 220 grit of an aluminum oxide bench stone. And remove wire-edge at 3 micron diamond mesh.
Thanks for watching & comments.

[@bartlabuschagne975]

Thank you. I’ll definitely try that. A clear and simple guide and explanation. Much appreciated.

[@jamesp.noffsingerjr.7610]

UPDATE: My thanks to you for presenting this concept. Naturally I am curious and feel the need to try any new to me concept with a view toward expanding any of my knowledge arsenals. Thanks to you I have been forced to focus more precisely on pressure levels to give this a fair trial. The edges achieved now are a step above previous efforts by a ridiculous margin. Again I thank you for challenging me indirectly to improve. (example; can now rough shave facial hair after 300 grit sandpaper rather than needing to progress through to 1000+ grit.) Gotta love the wisdom provided by our elders!!

[@briangentry3118]

This is one of the best videos I've seen on burr removal and VERY Importantly, includes tests that show evidence of burr and then lack of burr and how it relates to edge performance. I've watched this several times now and I've learned something each time. Awesome work BluntCut! :) :)

[@BluntCutMetalWorks]

Brian, I am delighted to receive your generous comment. Glad this video is helpful. I've gained some metallurgical knowledge since 2013. With comment like yours, difficult for me to resist from babbling out another video about comprehensive edge sharpening/shaping from metal point of view. Either that or this blind squirrel may already found the last lucky nut - hahaha...

[@BenoJ3000]

@@BluntCutMetalWorks Even 9 years later this is the best video on burr removal I have seen. Lots of videos don't touch on this enough. It might be time for another one!

[@raimundomartinsdeloiolafil7879]

@@BenoJ3000 É o que penso!

[@Mark--Todd]

First class information. Thank you for sharing your knowledge

[@Airik1111bibles]

You are awesome my friend, I have been dealing with this problem and couldn't find anyone who explained it as well as you just did. Two thumbs up....way up, you have just made a newbie knife guy very happy and I can't wait to give it a try in the morning. I just purchased an Ontario Gen2 SP 47 bushcraft survival knife which showed up with a messed up grind edge, I have had the worst luck with three new knives in a row with poor grinds. Anyways I sharpened the Ontario which is my first 5160 steel blade and boy it sharpens up really good BUT it kept doing that exact thing and now I know ;) Thank-you so much for sharing brother.

[@BluntCutMetalWorks]

+Airik1111 Thanks and you're welcome.

[@peteswright]

This has been an excellent, in depth look at de burring. De burring is my main issue in getting a good edge. The burr sometimes just refuses to come off and causes much frustration. The only thing you didn't mention as an aid was looking to see that the lights had gone from the apex. If there is a burr it will reflect light and show up. Remove all reflecting lights and this should prove its a burr free edge. I know that you know this btw lol. Not trying to tell you anything but others might not know. ATB.

[@samiam1150]

Finally someone who knows how to get to the point. No pun intended. Good video.

[@yanim9578]

Wonderful - A mystery no longer mysterious! Thank you!

[@BluntCutMetalWorks]

+Yani M Most welcome. Hopefully, this technique works for you.

[@jamesp.noffsingerjr.7610]

You Sir obviously have that magic touch that still eludes me. I have yet to successfully deburr via grinding such as you display in most of your videos. My solution which seems fool proof despite my decided tendency toward being rather heavy handed is to simply draw the blade edge through the end of a pvc pipe or similar plastic of that consistency such as a Bic lighter. This action seems to nicely strip both burr and wire edges ( depending on the grain of the steel) right off. Then a couple of really light passes appear to finish very nicely and consistently knife after knife.

[@BluntCutMetalWorks]

+James P. NoffsingerJr. Thanks for sharing. When an edge properly sharpened and there are remnant burr/wire hang/hinge-on at near sub micron and burrs are non carbides, then draw that edge through wood/plastic/etc will work fine. Now, envision if burrs consist of some 2-4um carbides & matrix chunks, so stripped/pulled carbides/chunks lodged to the draw-cut, easily see - those debris could degrade/damage the thin seek-after apex. In addition, if sharpening angle is sub 26* inclusive, drawing edge through material probably will just straighten the burr/wire rather than pull/strip them out.

[@kickenchicken100]

Makes total sense. You explained it very simple. Going to be my new technique.

[@ThomasRonnberg]

Excellent video.

[@BluntCutMetalWorks]

Thanks

[@michaelshults7675]

Sir - that is genius. . I am commenting again, because I just read your post on blade forums, and you go by the nam blunt cut.. Looks like you get a 100% burrs free edge!! May I ask what would be a more gentle way of folding over a micro burrs/white line, on a straight razor that can't be felt with finger tips, but can be seen with a 10× loupe under a good direct light source . I do believe the reason we can't strip off 'all' the burrs with 'only' the stone, is because the burrs is at a much greater obtuse angle, and the fold over catches it and fold it and weakens it so the stone can abrade it.. Suggestions will be greatly appreciated, Sir!! --Mike

[@BluntCutMetalWorks]

Try to fold by cutting printer paper. Leading edge cut - 0.25" stroke length - against 16K shapton glass at 10dps angle. 1-2" strop stroke length against hanging leather with 0.1um diamond psa microfinishing film. Do 1 stroke per side and check edge with 20-30x loupe.

[@jamesp.noffsingerjr.7610]

Indeed Sir. That is roughly what I expected was what was causing the need to perform the draw through and gentle finishing touch up at the for me predictable rate of roughly 3-4 cycles. The vast. majority of my edges are convex which may somehow contribute to this alongside the heavy handedness. I don't seem to experience quite this much issue with the more common flat grind which often requires at least a small amount of thinning of the secondary bevel (non apex or non cutting) on thicker outdoors type cutlery. I find this aspect is already accounted for during convexing which for me appears to last much longer as far as viable usage in most common environments. A little more work initially however the fellow who runs a local done dining restaurant's kitchen seems tickled several different shades of pink with these results and is still months later stunned with the edges his various cutlery still maintains as apposed to the previous three day to one and a half week life expectancy from his previous service. Maybe I'm putting myself out of business this way. (chuckling).

[@Dadamsjr7353]

Great video thank you very much for taking your time and doing this

[@JakeGershvin]

Excellent instructions. Thanks very much.

[@chrissanderson8390]

Great video

[@BluntCutMetalWorks]

Thanks

[@BluntCutMetalWorks]

Thanks.

[@SanDiegoSWOT]

Fantastic video- thanks for sharing!

[@irlrp]

interesting technique, seems to be working very nice ! i can't wait to test it !

[@qrubmeeaz]

Great explanation. Thanks so much!

[@michaelshults7675]

Interesting .. So how do I do this with a straight razor? Sometimes the burr wasn't created intentionally but it happens on a microscopic level, and with the correct lighting and a good 10x loupe I can sometimes see that dreaded white line...

[@BluntCutMetalWorks]

You can gently fold & deburr straight razor apex using freshly lapped 16K or 30K shapton glass stone. 'Freshly lapped' implies newly exposing grit/ceramic are sharp to minimize burnishing/raising new burr.

[@shawnlavigne9069]

appreciate the vid. thnx.

[@danmichell7516]

super handy way to due this

[@BluntCutMetalWorks]

Thanks. I still use this same technique for steels with high plasticity and ductile burrs.

[@nedo3505]

Sincere complimenti

[@MrPoollegrino]

Nice video bluntcut ;-)

[@scottecooke]

I want to try this as I am having trouble with burr removal on some knives. But I am worried. Does the stick effect the cutting edge? By putting the lateral stress on the edge I mean. Also does the type of wood matter?

[@BluntCutMetalWorks]

scottecooke Take a DE (double edge ) Feather razor, scrape against a stick - first with very light pressure and keep increase pressure until the edge no longer shave comfortably. Note the damage pressure - it's more than one normally think. Now that is for an edge with 0.2 micron radius. While your sharp knife edge (says) 0.6micron, hence it would take around 27 times the pressure to damage your knife apex. btw 27 times because strength is cubic the different (3^3). otoh, burr & wire-edge & damage apex are weak, thus easily bend over with pressure shown in video. Give this method a try, maybe it works for you.

[@scottecooke]

I don't have one of them razors. Maybe I should just start really soft. What wood do you use? Balsa, soft or hard?

[@BluntCutMetalWorks]

scottecooke A piece of oak or olive. I like olive because of its fine grain. Use fine grain hardwood if you can find one. Heck, sometime I lazy enough and even gently scrape against the face of another knife. Just happily scrape away, burr won't bite you - heheh...

[@scottecooke]

Ok thanks. I won't have trouble finding hardwood. I live in Australia. Just about everything is hardwood. Backyard is full of gum trees. I will try some. Thanks for the tips.

[@jamesp.noffsingerjr.7610]

hmmm..."fine dining" ; even my typing is heavy handed! wow!

[@dinob4853]

I have to get my butcher knives this sharp

[@CorrectsYou]

Movie.

[@BluntCutMetalWorks]

Thanks Morpheus :D

[@BluntCutMetalWorks]

Thanks.